Part 38

_Monday._—1. Stewed eels. 2. Veal cutlets garnished with rolled bacon; cold mutton and winter salad. 3. Baked rice pudding.

_Tuesday._—1. Roast fowls, garnished with water-cresses; boiled bacon-cheek; hashed mutton from remains of haunch. 2. Apple pudding.

_Wednesday._—1. Boiled leg of pork, carrots, parsnips, and pease-pudding; fowl croquettes made with remainder of cold fowl. 2. Baroness pudding.

_Thursday._—1. Cold pork and mashed potatoes; roast partridges, bread sauce and gravy. 2. The remainder of the pudding cut into neat slices, and warmed through, and served with sifted sugar sprinkled over; apple fritters.

_Friday._—1. Roast hare, gravy, and currant jelly; rump-steak and oyster-sauce; vegetables. 2. Macaroni.

_Saturday._—1. Jugged hare; small mutton pudding. 2. Fig pudding.

* * * * *

_Sunday._—1. Crimped cod and oyster sauce. 2. Roast fowls, small boiled ham, vegetables; rump-steak pie. 3. Baked apple pudding, open jam tart.

_Monday._—1. The remainder of cod warmed in maître d’hôtel sauce. 2. Boiled aitchbone of beef, carrots, parsnips, suet dumplings. 3. Baked bread-and-butter pudding.

_Tuesday._—1. Pea-soup made from liquor in which beef was boiled. 2. Cold beef, mashed potatoes; mutton cutlets and tomato sauce. 3. Carrot pudding.

_Wednesday._—1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Roast leg of pork, apple sauce, vegetables. 3. Macaroni with Parmesan cheese.

_Thursday._—1. Bubble-and-squeak from remains of cold beef; curried pork. 2. Baked Semolina pudding.

_Friday._—1. Roast leg of mutton, stewed Spanish onions, potatoes. 2. Apple tart.

_Saturday._—1. Hashed mutton; boiled rabbit and onion sauce; vegetables. 2. Damson pudding made with bottled fruit.

NOVEMBER, Things in Season.

_Fish._—Brill, carp, cod, crabs, eels, gudgeons, haddocks, oysters, pike, soles, tench, turbot, whiting.

_Meat._—Beef, mutton, veal, doe venison.

_Poultry._—Chickens, fowls, geese, larks, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, teal, turkeys, widgeons, wild-duck.

_Game._—Hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcocks.

_Vegetables._—Beetroot, cabbages, carrots, celery, lettuces, late cucumbers, onions, potatoes, salading, spinach, sprouts—various herbs.

_Fruit._—Apples, bullaces, chestnuts, filberts, grapes, pears, walnuts.

NOVEMBER—BILLS OF FARE FOR A GAME DINNER.

Dinner for 30 persons.

_First Course._

Hare Soup.

Vase of Purée of Grouse. Flowers. Pheasant Soup.

Soup à la Reine.

_Entrées._

Fillets of Hare Salmi of en Chevreuil. Salmi of Widgeon. Woodcock. Perdrix au Choux.

Vase of Lark Pudding. Flowers. Game Patties.

Curried Rabbits. Salmi of Salmi of Woodcock. Fillet of Pheasant Widgeon. and Truffles.

_Second Course._

Larded Pheasants.

Leveret, larded and stuffed.

Cold Pheasant Pie Vase of Hot raised Pie of à la Perigord. Flowers. mixed Game.

Grouse.

Larded Partridges.

_Third Course._

Pintails.

Quails. Snipes. Ortolans. Vase of Flowers. Golden Plovers. Widgeon. Teal. Wild Duck. Snipes. Woodcocks.

_Entremets and Removes._

Boudin à la Nesselrode. Apricot Maids Tart. Dantzic Jelly. of Honour.

Vol-au-Vent Vase of Gâteau of Pears. Flowers. Génoise Glacé.

Charlotte Russe. Maids of Compôte of Honour. Plum-pudding. Apples.

_Dessert._

Strawberry-Ice Cream. Olives. Figs. Pineapples. Preserved Dried Cherries. Grapes. Fruit.

Filberts. Pears. Walnuts.

Wafers. Vase of Biscuits. Flowers. Ginger-Ice Cream. Orange-Water Ice. Apples. Dried Preserved Fruit. Grapes. Cherries.

Pears. Figs. Olives. Lemon-Water Ice.

NOYEAU CREAM.

_Ingredients._—1½ oz. of isinglass, the juice of 2 lemons, noyeau and pounded sugar to taste, 1½ pint of cream. _Mode._—Dissolve the isinglass in a little boiling water, add the lemon-juice, and strain this to the cream, putting in sufficient noyeau and sugar to flavour and sweeten the mixture nicely; whisk the cream well, put it into an oiled mould, and set the mould in ice or in a cool place; turn it out, and garnish the dish to taste. _Time._—Altogether, ½ hour. _Average cost_, with cream at 1_s._ per pint and the best isinglass, 4_s._ _Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

NOYEAU, Home-made.

_Ingredients._—2 oz. of bitter almonds, 1 oz. of sweet ditto, 1 lb. of loaf sugar, the rinds of 3 lemons, 1 quart of Irish whiskey or gin, 1 tablespoonful of clarified honey, ½ pint of new milk. _Mode._—Blanch and pound the almonds, and mix with them the sugar, which should also be pounded. Boil the milk; let it stand till quite cold; then mix all the ingredients together, and let them remain for 10 days, shaking them every day. Filter the mixture through blotting-paper, bottle off for use in small bottles, and seal the corks down. This will be found useful for flavouring many sweet dishes. A tablespoonful of the above noyeau, added to a pint of boiled custard instead of brandy as given in our recipe for custard, makes an exceedingly agreeable and delicate flavour. _Average cost_, 2_s._ 9_d._ _Sufficient_ to make about 2½ pints of noyeau. _Seasonable._—May be made at any time.

OCTOBER—BILLS OF FARE.

Dinner for 18 persons.

_First Course._

Mock-Turtle Soup, removed by Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.

Vase of Soles à la Normandie. Flowers. Red Mullet.

Julienne Soup, removed by John Dory and Dutch Sauce.

_Entrées._

Sweetbreads and Tomato Sauce.

Vase of Oyster Patties. Flowers. Stewed Mushrooms.

Fricandeau de Veau and Celery Sauce.

_Second Course._

Roast Saddle of Mutton.

Grouse Pie.

Roast Goose. Vase of Boiled Fowls and Flowers. Oyster Sauce.

Ham.

Larded Turkey.

_Third Course._

Pheasants, Custards. removed by Prawns. Cabinet Pudding.

Italian Cream.

Gâteau de Vase of Compôte of Pommes. Flowers. Plums.

Lobster Salad. Peach Jelly. Apple Tart.

Roast Hare, removed by Iced Pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

Dinner for 12 persons.

_First Course._—Carrot soup à la Crécy; soup à la Reine; baked cod; stewed eels. _Entrées._—Riz de Veau and tomato sauce; vol-au-vent of chicken; pork cutlets and sauce Robert; grilled mushrooms. _Second Course._—Rump of beef à la jardinière; roast goose; boiled fowls and celery sauce; tongue, garnished; vegetables. _Third Course._—Grouse; pheasants; quince jelly; lemon cream; apple tart; compôte of peaches; Nesselrode pudding; cabinet pudding; scalloped oysters; dessert and ices.

Dinner for 8 persons.

_First Course._—Calf’s-head soup; crimped cod and oyster sauce; stewed eels. _Entrées._—Stewed mutton kidneys; curried sweetbreads. _Second Course._—Boiled leg of mutton, garnished with carrots and turnips; roast goose. _Third Course._—Partridges; fruit jelly; Italian cream; vol-au-vent of pears; apple tart; cabinet pudding; dessert and ices.

Dinners for 6 persons.

_First Course._—Hare soup; broiled cod à la Maître d’Hôtel. Haddocks and egg sauce. _Entrées._—Veal cutlets, garnished with French beans; haricot mutton. _Second Course._—Roast haunch of mutton; boiled capon and rice; vegetables. _Third Course._—Pheasants; punch jelly; blancmange; apples à la Portugaise; Charlotte à la Vanille; marrow pudding; dessert.

* * * * *

_First Course._—Mock-turtle soup; brill and lobster sauce; fried whitings. _Entrées._—Fowl à la Béchamel; oyster patties. _Second Course._—Roast sucking-pig; stewed rump of beef à la jardinière; vegetables. _Third Course._—Grouse; Charlotte aux pommes; coffee cream; cheesecakes; apricot tart; iced pudding; dessert.

OCTOBER, Plain Family Dinners for.

_Sunday._—1. Roast sucking-pig, tomato sauce and brain sauce; small boiled leg of mutton, caper sauce, turnips, and carrots. 2. Damson tart, boiled batter pudding.

_Monday._—1. Vegetable soup, made from liquor that mutton was boiled in. 2. Sucking-pig en blanquette, small meat pie, French beans, and potatoes. 3. Pudding, pies.

_Tuesday._—1. Roast partridges, bread sauce, and gravy; slices of mutton warmed in caper sauce; vegetables. 2. Baked plum-pudding.

_Wednesday._—1. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, vegetable marrow, and potatoes. 2. Damson pudding.

_Thursday._—1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Cold beef and salad; mutton cutlets and tomato sauce. 3. Macaroni.

_Friday._—1. Carrot soup. 2. Boiled fowls and celery sauce; bacon-cheek, garnished with greens; beef rissoles, from remains of cold beef. 3. Baroness pudding.

_Saturday._—1. Curried fowl, from remains of cold ditto; dish of rice, rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, vegetables. 2. Stewed pears and sponge-cakes.

* * * * *

_Sunday._—1. Crimped cod and oyster sauce. 2. Roast haunch of mutton, brown onion sauce, and vegetables. 3. Bullace pudding, baked custards in cups.

_Monday._—1. The remains of codfish, flaked, and warmed in a maître d’hôtel sauce. 2. Cold mutton and salad, veal cutlets and rolled bacon, French beans and potatoes. 3. Arrowroot blancmange and stewed damsons.

_Tuesday._—1. Roast hare, gravy, and red-currant jelly; hashed mutton, vegetables. 2. Currant dumplings.

_Wednesday._—1. Jugged hare, from remains of roast ditto; boiled knuckle of veal and rice; boiled bacon cheek. 2. Apple pudding.

_Thursday._—1. Roast leg of pork, apple sauce, greens, and potatoes. 2. Rice snowballs.

_Friday._—1. Slices of pork, broiled, and tomato sauce, mashed potatoes; roast pheasants, bread sauce, and gravy. 2. Baked apple pudding.

_Saturday._—1. Rump-steak pie, sweetbreads. 2. Ginger pudding.

OCTOBER, Things in Season.

_Fish._—Barbel, brill, cod, crabs, eels, flounders, gudgeons, haddocks, lobsters, mullet, oysters, plaice, prawns, skate, soles, tench, turbot, whiting.

_Meat._—Beef, mutton, pork, veal, venison.

_Poultry._—Chickens, fowls, geese, larks, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, teal, turkeys, widgeons, wild ducks.

_Game._—Black-cock, grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcocks, doe venison.

_Vegetables._—Artichokes, beets, cabbages, cauliflowers, carrots, celery, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, potatoes, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrows,—various herbs.

_Fruit._—Apples, black and white bullaces, damsons, figs, filberts, grapes, pears, quinces, walnuts.

OMELET.

_Ingredients._—6 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt, ½ saltspoonful of pepper, ¼ lb. of butter. _Mode._—Break the eggs into a basin, omitting the whites of 3, and beat them up with the salt and pepper until extremely light; then add 2 oz. of the butter broken into small pieces, and stir this into the mixture. Put the other 2 oz. of butter into a frying-pan, make it quite hot, and, as soon as it begins to bubble, whisk the eggs, &c., very briskly for a minute or two, and pour them into the pan; stir the omelet with a spoon one way until the mixture thickens and becomes firm, and when the whole is set, fold the edges over, so that the omelet assumes an oval form; and when it is nicely brown on one side, and quite firm, it is done. To take off the rawness on the upper side, hold the pan before the fire for a minute or two, and brown it with a salamander or hot shovel. Serve very expeditiously on a very hot dish, and never cook until it is just wanted. The flavour of this omelet may be very much enhanced by adding minced parsley, minced onion or eschalot, or grated cheese, allowing 1 tablespoonful of the former, and half the quantity of the latter, to the above proportion of eggs. Shrimps or oysters may also be added: the latter should be scalded in their liquor, and then bearded and cut into small pieces. In making an omelet, be particularly careful that it is not too thin, and, to avoid this, do not make it in too large a frying-pan, as the mixture would then spread too much, and taste of the outside. It should also not be greasy, burnt, or too much done, and should be cooked over a gentle fire, that the whole of the substance may be heated without drying up the outside. Omelets are sometimes served with gravy; but _this should never be poured over them_, but served in a tureen, as the liquid causes the omelet to become heavy and flat, instead of eating light and soft. In making the gravy, the flavour should not overpower that of the omelet, and should be thickened with arrowroot or rice flour. _Time._—With 6 eggs, in a frying-pan 18 or 20 inches round, 4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 9_d._ _Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

OMELET, The Cure’s, or Omelette au Thon.

_Ingredients._—Take for 6 persons, the roes of 2 carp;[A] bleach them, by putting them, for 5 minutes, in boiling water slightly salted; a piece of fresh tunny the size of a hen’s egg, to which add a small shalot already chopped; hash up together the roe and the tunny, so as to mix them well, and throw the whole into a saucepan, with a sufficient quantity of very good butter: whip it up until the butter is melted! This constitutes the specialty of the omelet. Take a second piece of butter, _à discrétion_, mix it with parsley and herbs, place it in a long-shaped dish destined to receive the omelet; squeeze the juice of a lemon over it, and place it on hot embers. Beat up 12 eggs (the fresher the better); throw up the sauté of roe and tunny, stirring it so as to mix all well together; then make your omelet in the usual manner, endeavouring to turn it out long, thick, and soft. Spread it carefully on the dish prepared for it, and serve at once. This dish ought to be reserved for recherché déjeûners, or for assemblies where amateurs meet who know how to eat well: washed down with a good old wine, it will work wonders.

_Note._—The roe and the tunny must be beaten up (sauté) without allowing them to boil, to prevent their hardening, which would prevent them mixing well with the eggs. Your dish should be hollowed towards the centre, to allow the gravy to concentrate, that it may be helped with a spoon. The dish ought to be slightly heated, otherwise the cold china will extract all the heat from the omelet.

OMELETTE AUX CONFITURES, or Jam Omelet.

_Ingredients._—6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of apricot, strawberry, or any jam that may be preferred. _Mode._—Make an omelet, only instead of doubling it over, leave it flat in the pan. When quite firm, and nicely brown on one side, turn it carefully on to a hot dish, spread over the middle of it the jam, and fold the omelet over on each side; sprinkle sifted sugar over, and serve very quickly. A pretty dish of small omelets may be made by dividing the batter into 3 or 4 portions, and frying them separately; they should then be spread each one with a different kind of preserve, and the omelets rolled over. Always sprinkle sweet omelets with sifted sugar before being sent to table. _Time._—4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 1_s._ 2_d._ _Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

OMELET, Bachelor’s.

_Ingredients._—2 or 3 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, teaspoonful of flour, ½ teacupful of milk. _Mode._—Make a thin cream of the flour and milk; then beat up the eggs, mix all together, and add a pinch of salt and a few grains of cayenne. Melt the butter in a small frying-pan, and, when very hot, pour in the batter. Let the pan remain for a few minutes over a clear fire; then sprinkle upon the omelet some chopped herbs and a few shreds of onion; double the omelet dexterously, and shake it out of the pan on to a hot dish. A simple sweet omelet can be made by the same process, substituting sugar or preserve for the chopped herbs. _Time._—2 minutes. _Average cost_, 6_d._ _Sufficient_ for 2 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

OMELET, Plain Sweet.

_Ingredients._—6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of sifted sugar. _Mode._—Break the eggs into a basin, omitting the whites of 3; whisk them well, adding the sugar and 2 oz. of the butter, which should be broken into small pieces, and stir all these ingredients well together. Make the remainder of the butter quite hot in a small frying-pan, and when it commences to bubble, pour in the eggs, &c. Keep stirring them until they begin to set; then turn the edges of the omelet over, to make it an oval shape, and finish cooking it. To brown the top, hold the pan before the fire, or use a salamander, and turn it carefully on to a _very hot_ dish; sprinkle sifted sugar over, and serve. _Time._—From 4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 10_d._ _Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

OMELETTE SOUFFLÉ.

_Ingredients._—6 eggs, 5 oz. of pounded sugar, flavouring of vanilla, orange-flower water, or lemon-rind, 3 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of rice-flour. _Mode._—Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs, add to the former the sugar, the rice-flour, and either of the above flavourings that may be preferred, and stir these ingredients well together. Whip the whites of the eggs, mix them lightly with the batter, and put the butter into a small frying-pan. As soon as it begins to bubble, pour the batter into it, and set the pan over a bright but gentle fire; and when the omelet is set, turn the edges over to make it an oval shape, and slip it on to a silver dish, which has been previously well buttered. Put it in the oven, and bake from 12 to 15 minutes; sprinkle finely-powdered sugar over the soufflé, and _serve it immediately._ _Time._—About 4 minutes in the pan; to bake, from 12 to 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 1_s._ _Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

ONION SAUCE, Brown.

_Ingredients._—6 large onions, rather more than ½ pint of good gravy, 2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste. _Mode._—Slice and fry the onions of a pale brown in a stewpan, with the above quantity of butter, keeping them well stirred, that they do not get black. When a nice colour, pour over the gravy, and let them simmer gently until tender. Now skim off every particle of fat, add the seasoning, and rub the whole through a tammy or sieve; put it back into the saucepan to warm, and when it boils, serve. _Time._—Altogether 1 hour. _Seasonable_ from August to March.

_Note._—Where a high flavouring is liked, add 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, or a small quantity of port wine.

ONION SAUCE, French, or Soubise.

_Ingredients._—½ pint of Béchamel, 1 bay-leaf, seasoning to taste of pounded mace and cayenne, 6 onions, a small piece of ham. _Mode._—Peel the onions and cut them in halves; put them into a stewpan, with just sufficient water to cover them, and add the bay-leaf, ham, cayenne, and mace; be careful to keep the lid closely shut, and simmer them until tender. Take them out and drain thoroughly; rub them through a tammy or sieve (an old one does for the purpose) with a wooden spoon, and put them to ½ pint of Béchamel; keep stirring over the fire until it boils, when serve. If it should require any more seasoning, add it to taste. _Time._—¾ hour to boil the onions. _Average cost_, 10_d._ for this quantity. _Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized dish.

ONION SAUCE, White, for Boiled Rabbits, Roast Shoulder of Mutton, &c.

_Ingredients._—9 large onions, or 12 middling-sized ones, 1 pint of melted butter made with milk, ½ teaspoonful of salt, or rather more. _Mode._—Peel the onions and put them into water to which a little salt has been added, to preserve their whiteness, and let them remain for ¼ hour. Then put them into a stewpan, cover them with water, and let them boil until tender, and, if the onions should be very strong, change the water after they have been boiling for ¼ hour. Drain them thoroughly, chop them, and rub them through a tammy or sieve. Make 1 pint of melted butter with milk, and when that boils, put in the onions, with a seasoning of salt; stir it till it simmers, when it will be ready to serve. If these directions are carefully attended to, this onion sauce will be delicious. _Time._—From ¾ to 1 hour, to boil the onions. _Average cost_, 9_d._ per pint. _Sufficient_ to serve with a roast shoulder of mutton, or boiled rabbit. _Seasonable_ from August to March.

_Note._—To make this sauce very mild and delicate, use Spanish onions, which can be procured from the beginning of September to Christmas. 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of cream added just before serving, will be found to improve its appearance very much. Small onions, when very young, may be cooked whole, and served in melted butter. A sieve or tammy should be kept expressly for onions; an old one answers the purpose, as it is liable to retain the flavour and smell, which of course would be excessively disagreeable in delicate preparations.

ONION SOUP.

_Ingredients._—6 large onions, 2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, ½ pint of cream, 1 quart of stock. _Mode._—Chop the onions, put them in the butter, stir them occasionally, but do not let them brown. When tender, put the stock to them, and season; strain the soup, and add the boiling cream. _Time._—½ hour. _Average cost_, 1_s._ per quart. _Seasonable_ in winter. _Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

ONION SOUP, Cheap.

_Ingredients._—8 middling-sized onions, 3 oz. of butter, a tablespoonful of rice-flour, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of powdered sugar, thickening of butter and flour, 2 quarts of water. _Mode._—Cut the onions small, put them into the stewpan with the butter, and fry them well; mix the rice-flour smoothly with the water, add the onions, seasoning, and sugar, and simmer till tender. Thicken with butter and flour, and serve. _Time._—2 hours. _Average cost_, 4_d._ per quart. _Seasonable_ in winter. _Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

ONIONS, Burnt, for Gravies.

_Ingredients._—½ lb. of onions, ½ pint of water, ½ lb. of moist sugar, 1/3 pint of vinegar. _Mode._—Peel and chop the onions fine, and put them into a stewpan (not tinned), with the water; let them boil for 5 minutes, then add the sugar, and simmer gently until the mixture becomes nearly black and throws out bubbles of smoke. Have ready the above proportion of boiling vinegar, strain the liquor gradually to it, and keep stirring with a wooden spoon until it is well incorporated. When cold, bottle for use. _Time._—Altogether, 1 hour.

ONIONS, Pickled (a very simple Method, and exceedingly Good).