Part 37

[COLD MEAT COOKERY.] _Ingredients._—The remains of cold neck or loin of mutton, 2 oz. of butter, 3 onions, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, ½ pint of good gravy, pepper and salt to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 1 head of celery. _Mode._—Cut the cold mutton into moderate-sized chops, and take off the fat; slice the onions, and fry them with the chops, in a little butter, of a nice brown colour; stir in the flour, add the gravy, and let it stew gently nearly an hour. In the mean time boil the vegetables until _nearly_ tender, slice them, and add them to the mutton about ¼ hour before it is to be served. Season with pepper and salt, add the ketchup and port wine, give one boil, and serve. _Time._—1 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 6_d._ _Seasonable_ at any time.

MUTTON, Hashed.

_Ingredients._—The remains of cold roast shoulder or leg of mutton, 6 whole peppers, 6 whole allspice, a faggot of savoury herbs, ½ head of celery, 1 onion, 2 oz. of butter, flour. _Mode._—Cut the meat in nice even slices from the bones, trimming off all superfluous fat and gristle; chop the bones and fragments of the joints, put them into a stewpan with the pepper, spice, herbs, and celery; cover with water, and simmer for 1 hour. Slice and fry the onion of a nice pale-brown colour, dredge in a little flour to make it thick, and add this to the bones, &c. Stew for ¼ hour, strain the gravy, and let it cool; then skim off every particle of fat, and put it, with the meat, into a stewpan. Flavour with ketchup, Harvey’s sauce, tomato sauce, or any flavouring that may be preferred, and let the meat gradually warm through, but not boil, or it will harden. To hash meat properly, it should be laid in cold gravy, and only left on the fire just long enough to warm through. _Time._—1½ hour to simmer the gravy. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4_d._ _Seasonable_ at any time.

MUTTON, Roast Haunch of.

_Ingredients._—Haunch of mutton, a little salt, flour. _Mode._—Let this joint hang as long as possible without becoming tainted, and while hanging dust flour over it, which keeps off the flies, and prevents the air from getting to it. If not well hung, the joint, when it comes to table, will do credit neither to the butcher nor the cook, as it will not be tender. Wash the outside well, lest it should have a bad flavour from keeping; then flour it and put it down to a nice brisk fire, at some distance, so that it may gradually warm through. Keep continually basting, and about ½ hour before it is served, draw it nearer to the fire to get nicely brown. Sprinkle a little fine salt over the meat, pour off the dripping, add a little boiling water slightly salted, and strain this over the joint. Place a paper ruche on the bone, and send red-currant jelly and gravy in a tureen to table with it. _Time._—About 4 hours. _Average cost_, 10_d._ per lb. _Sufficient_ for 8 to 10 persons. _Seasonable._—In best season from September to March.

MUTTON, Boiled Leg of.

_Ingredients._—Mutton, water, salt. _Mode._—A leg of mutton for boiling should not hang too long, as it will not look a good colour when dressed. Cut off the shank-bone, trim the knuckle, and wash and wipe it very clean; plunge it into sufficient boiling water to cover it; let it boil up, then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, where it should remain till the finger can be borne in the water. Then place it sufficiently near the fire, that the water may gently simmer, and be very careful that it does not boil fast, or the meat will be hard. Skim well, add a little salt, and in about 2¼ hours after the water begins to simmer, a moderate-sized leg of mutton will be done. Serve with carrots and mashed turnips, which may be boiled with the meat, and send caper sauce to table with it in a tureen. _Time._—A moderate-sized leg of mutton of 9 lbs., 2¼ hours after the water boils; one of 12 lbs., 3 hours. _Average cost_, 8½_d._ per lb. _Sufficient._—A moderate-sized leg of mutton for 6 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ nearly all the year, but not so good in June, July, and August.

_Note._—When meat is liked very _thoroughly_ cooked, allow more time than stated above. The liquor this joint was boiled in should be converted into soup.

MUTTON, Boned Leg of, Stuffed.

_Ingredients._—A small leg of mutton, weighing 6 or 7 lbs., forcemeat, 2 shalots finely minced. _Mode._—Make a forcemeat, to which add 2 finely-minced shalots. Bone the leg of mutton, without spoiling the skin, and cut off a great deal of the fat. Fill the hole up whence the bone was taken with the forcemeat, and sew it up underneath, to prevent its falling out. Bind and tie it up compactly, and roast it before a nice clear fire for about 2½ hours or rather longer; remove the tape and send it to table with a good gravy. It may be glazed or not, as preferred. _Time._—2½ hours, or rather longer. _Average cost_, 4_s._ 8_d._ _Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

MUTTON, Braised Leg of.

_Ingredients._—1 small leg of mutton, 4 carrots, 3 onions, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, a bunch of parsley, seasoning to taste of pepper and salt, a few slices of bacon, a few veal trimmings, ½ pint of gravy or water. _Mode._—Line the bottom of a braising-pan with a few slices of bacon, put in the carrots, onions, herbs, parsley, and seasoning, and over these place the mutton. Cover the whole with a few more slices of bacon and the veal trimmings, pour in the gravy or water, and stew very _gently_ for 4 hours. Strain the gravy, reduce it to a glaze over a sharp fire, glaze the mutton with it, and send it to table, placed on a dish of white haricot beans boiled tender, or garnished with glazed onions. _Time._—4 hours. _Average cost_, 5_s._ _Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

MUTTON, Roast Leg of.

_Ingredients._—Leg of mutton, a little salt. _Mode._—As mutton, when freshly killed, is never tender, hang it almost as long as it will keep; flour it, and put it in a cool airy place for a few days, if the weather will permit. Wash off the flour, wipe it very dry, and cut off the shank-bone; put it down to a brisk clear fire, dredge with flour, and keep continually basting the whole time it is cooking. About 20 minutes before serving, draw it near the fire to get nicely brown; sprinkle over it a little salt, dish the meat, pour off the dripping, add some boiling water slightly salted, strain it over the joint, and serve. _Time._—A leg of mutton weighing 10 lbs., about 2¼ or 2½ hours; one of 7 lbs., about 2 hours, or rather less. _Average cost_, 8½_d._ per lb. _Sufficient._—A moderate-sized leg of mutton sufficient for 6 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time, but not so good in June, July, and August.

MUTTON, Roast Loin of.

_Ingredients._—Loin of mutton, a little salt. _Mode._—Cut and trim off the superfluous fat, and see that the butcher joints the meat properly, as thereby much annoyance is saved to the carver, when it comes to table. Have ready a nice clear fire (it need not be a very wide large one), put down the meat, dredge with flour, and baste well until it is done. Make the gravy as for roast leg of mutton, and serve very hot. _Time._—A loin of mutton weighing 6 lbs., 1½ hour, or rather longer. _Average cost_, 8½_d_, per lb. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

MUTTON, Rolled loin of (very Excellent).

_Ingredients._—About 6 lbs. of a loin of mutton, ½ teaspoonful of pepper, ¼ teaspoonful of pounded allspice, ¼ teaspoonful of mace, ¼ teaspoonful of nutmeg, 6 cloves, forcemeat, 1 glass of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup. _Mode._—Hang the mutton till tender, bone it, and sprinkle over it pepper, mace, cloves, allspice, and nutmeg in the above proportion, all of which must be pounded very fine. Let it remain for a day, then make a forcemeat, cover the meat with it, and roll and bind it up firmly. Half bake it in a slow oven, let it grow cold, take off the fat, and put the gravy into a stewpan; flour the meat, put it in the gravy, and stew it till perfectly tender. Now take out the meat, unbind it, add to the gravy wine and ketchup as above, give one boil, and pour over the meat. Serve with red-currant jelly; and, if obtainable, a few mushrooms stewed for a few minutes in the gravy, will be found a great improvement. _Time._—1½ hour to bake the meat, 1½ hour to stew gently. _Average cost_, 4_s._ 9_d._ _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note._—This joint will be found very nice if rolled and stuffed, as here directed, and plainly roasted. It should be well basted, and served with a good gravy and currant jelly.

MUTTON, Boiled Neck of.

_Ingredients._—4 lbs. of the middle, or best end of the neck of mutton; a little salt. _Mode._—Trim off a portion of the fat, should there be too much, and if it is to look particularly nice, the chine-bone should be sawn down, the ribs stripped half-way down, and the ends of the bones chopped off; this is, however, not necessary. Put the meat into sufficient _boiling_ water to cover it; when it boils, add a little salt and remove all the scum. Draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let the water get so cool that the finger may be borne in it; then simmer very _slowly_ and gently until the meat is done, which will be in about 1½ hour, or rather more, reckoning from the time that it begins to simmer. Serve with turnips and caper sauce, and pour a little of it over the meat. The turnips should be boiled with the mutton; and when at hand, a few carrots will also be found an improvement. These, however, if very large and thick, must be cut into long thinnish pieces, or they will not be sufficiently done by the time the mutton is ready. Garnish the dish with carrots and turnips, placed alternately round the mutton. _Time._—4 lbs. of the neck of mutton, about 1½ hour. _Average cost_, 8½_d._ per lb. _Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

MUTTON, Ragoût of Cold Neck of.

[COLD MEAT COOKERY.] _Ingredients._—The remains of a cold neck or loin of mutton, 2 oz. of butter, a little flour, 2 onions sliced, ½ pint of water, 2 small carrots, 2 turnips, pepper and salt to taste. _Mode._—Cut the mutton into small chops, and trim off the greater portion of the fat; put the butter into a stewpan, dredge in a little flour, add the sliced onions, and keep stirring till brown; then put in the meat. When this is quite brown, add the water, and the carrots and turnips, which should be cut into very thin slices; season with pepper and salt, and stew till quite tender, which will be in about ¾ hour. When in season, green peas may be substituted for the carrots and turnips: they should be piled in the centre of the dish, and the chops laid round. _Time._—¾ hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4_d._ _Seasonable_, with peas, from June to August.

MUTTON, Roast Neck of.

_Ingredients._—Neck of mutton; a little salt. _Mode._—For roasting, choose the middle, or the best end, of the neck of mutton, and if there is a very large proportion of fat, trim off some of it, and save it for making into suet puddings, which will be found exceedingly good. Let the bones be cut short, and see that it is properly jointed before it is laid down to the fire, as they will be more easily separated when they come to table. Place the joint at a nice brisk fire, dredge it with flour, and keep continually basting until done. A few minutes before serving, draw it nearer the fire to acquire a nice colour, sprinkle over it a little salt, pour off the dripping, add a little boiling water slightly salted; strain this over the meat and serve. Red-currant jelly may be sent to table with it. _Time._—4 lbs. of the neck of mutton, rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_, 8½_d._ per lb. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

MUTTON PIE.

[COLD MEAT COOKERY.] _Ingredients._—The remains of a cold leg, loin, or neck of mutton, pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 dessertspoonful of chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs; when liked, a little minced onion or shalot; 3 or 4 potatoes, 1 teacupful of gravy; crust. _Mode._—Cold mutton may be made into very good pies if well seasoned and mixed with a few herbs; if the leg is used, cut it into very thin slices; if the loin or neck, into thin cutlets. Place some at the bottom of the dish; season well with pepper, salt, mace, parsley, and herbs; then put a layer of potatoes sliced, then more mutton, and so on till the dish is full; add the gravy, cover with a crust, and bake for 1 hour. _Time._—1 hour. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note._—The remains of an underdone leg of mutton may be converted into a very good family pudding, by cutting the meat into slices, and putting them into a basin lined with a suet crust. It should be seasoned well with pepper, salt, and minced shalot, covered with a crust, and boiled for about three hours.

MUTTON PIE.

_Ingredients._—2 lbs. of the neck or loin of mutton, weighed after being boned; 2 kidneys, pepper and salt to taste, 2 teacupfuls of gravy or water, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley; when liked, a little minced onion or shalot; puff crust. _Mode._—Bone the mutton, and cut the meat into steaks all of the same thickness, and leave but very little fat. Cut up the kidneys, and arrange these with the meat neatly in a pie-dish; sprinkle over them the minced parsley and a seasoning of pepper and salt; pour in the gravy, and cover with a tolerably good puff crust. Bake for 1½ hour, or rather longer, should the pie be very large, and let the oven be rather brisk. A well-made suet crust may be used instead of puff crust, and will be found exceedingly good. _Time._—1½ hour, or rather longer. _Average cost_, 2_s._ _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

MUTTON PUDDING.

_Ingredients._—About 2 lbs. of the chump end of the loin of mutton, weighed after being boned; pepper and salt to taste, suet crust made with milk, in the proportion of 6 oz. of suet to each pound of flour; a very small quantity of minced onion (this may be omitted when the flavour is not liked). _Mode._—Cut the meat into rather thin slices, and season them with pepper and salt; line the pudding-dish with crust; lay in the meat, and nearly, but do not quite, fill it up with water; when the flavour is liked, add a small quantity of minced onion; cover with crust, and proceed in the same manner as directed in recipe for rump steak and kidney pudding. _Time._—About 3 hours. _Average cost_, 1_s._ 9_d._ _Sufficient_ for 6 persons. _Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable in winter.

MUTTON, Roast Saddle of.

_Ingredients._—Saddle of mutton; a little salt. _Mode._—To insure this joint being tender, let it hang for ten days or a fortnight, if the weather permits. Cut off the tail and flaps, and trim away every part that has not indisputable pretensions to be eaten, and have the skin taken off and skewered on again. Put it down to a bright, clear fire, and, when the joint has been cooking for an hour, remove the skin and dredge it with flour. It should not be placed too near the fire, as the fat should not be in the slightest degree burnt, but kept constantly basted, both before and after the skin is removed. Sprinkle some salt over the joint; make a little gravy in the dripping-pan; pour it over the meat, which send to table with a tureen of made gravy and red-currant jelly. _Time._—A saddle of mutton weighing 10 lbs., 2½ hours; 14 lbs., 3¼ hours. When liked underdone, allow rather less time. _Average cost_, 10_d._ per lb. _Sufficient._—A moderate-sized saddle of 10 lbs. for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ all the year; not so good when lamb is in full season.

MUTTON, Roast Shoulder of.

_Ingredients._—Shoulder of mutton; a little salt. _Mode._—Put the joint down to a bright, clear fire; flour it well, and keep continually basting. About ¼ hour before serving, draw it near the fire, that the outside may acquire a nice brown colour, but not sufficiently near to blacken the fat. Sprinkle a little fine salt over the meat, empty the dripping-pan of its contents, pour in a little boiling water slightly salted, and strain this over the joint. Onion sauce, or stewed Spanish onions, are usually sent to table with this dish, and sometimes baked potatoes. _Time._—A shoulder of mutton weighing 6 or 7 lbs., 1½ hour. _Average cost_, 8_d._ per lb. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note._—Shoulder of mutton may be dressed in a variety of ways; boiled, and served with onion sauce; boned, and stuffed with a good veal forcemeat; or baked, with sliced potatoes in the dripping-pan.

MUTTON SOUP, Good.

_Ingredients._—A neck of mutton about 5 or 6 lbs., 3 carrots, 3 turnips, 2 onions, a large bunch of sweet herbs, including parsley; salt and pepper to taste; a little sherry, if liked; 3 quarts of water. _Mode._—Lay the ingredients in a covered pan before the fire, and let them remain there the whole day, stirring occasionally. The next day put the whole into a stewpan, and place it on a brisk fire. When it commences to boil, take the pan off the fire, and put it on one side to simmer until the meat is done. When ready for use, take out the meat, dish it up with carrots and turnips, and send it to table; strain the soup, let it cool, skim off all the fat, season and thicken it with a tablespoonful, or rather more, of arrowroot; flavour with a little sherry, simmer for 5 minutes, and serve. _Time._—15 hours. _Average cost_, including the meat, 1_s._ 3_d._ per quart. _Seasonable_ at any time. _Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

NASTURTIUMS, Pickled (a very good Substitute for Capers).

_Ingredients._—To each pint of vinegar, 1 oz. of salt, 6 peppercorns, nasturtiums. _Mode._—Gather the nasturtium pods on a dry day, and wipe them clean with a cloth; put them in a dry glass bottle, with vinegar, salt, and pepper, in the above proportion. If you cannot find enough ripe to fill a bottle, cork up what you have got until you have some more fit; they may be added from day to day. Bung up the bottles, and seal or rosin the tops. They will be fit for use in 10 or 12 months; and the best way is to make them one season for the next. _Seasonable._—Look for nasturtium-pods from the end of July to the end of August.

NECTARINES, Preserved.

_Ingredients._—To every lb. of sugar allow ¼ pint of water; nectarines. _Mode._—Divide the nectarines in two, take out the stones, and make a strong syrup with sugar and water in the above proportion. Put in the nectarines, and boil them until they have thoroughly imbibed the sugar. Keep the fruit as whole as possible, and turn it carefully into a pan. The next day boil it again for a few minutes, take out the nectarines, put them into jars, boil the syrup quickly for five minutes, pour it over the fruit, and, when cold, cover the preserve down. The syrup and preserve must be carefully skimmed, or it will not be clear. _Time._—10 minutes to boil the sugar and water; 20 minutes to boil the fruit the first time, 10 minutes the second time; 5 minutes to boil the syrup. _Seasonable_ in August and September, but cheapest in September.

NECTAR, Welsh.

_Ingredients._—1 lb. of raisins, 3 lemons, 2 lbs. of loaf sugar, 2 gallons of boiling water. _Mode._—Cut the peel of the lemons very thin, pour upon it the boiling water, and, when cool, add the strained juice of the lemons, the sugar, and the raisins, stoned and chopped very fine. Let it stand 4 or 5 days, stirring it every day; then strain it through a jelly-bag, and bottle it for present use. _Time._—4 or 5 days. _Average cost_, 1_s._ 9_d._ _Sufficient_ to make 2 gallons.

NEGUS, to make.

_Ingredients._—To every pint of port wine allow 1 quart of boiling water, ¼ lb. of sugar, 1 lemon, grated nutmeg to taste. _Mode._—As this beverage is more usually drunk at children’s parties than at any other, the wine need not be very old or expensive for the purpose, a new fruity wine answering very well for it. Put the wine into a jug, rub some lumps of sugar (equal to ¼ lb.) on the lemon-rind until all the yellow part of the skin is absorbed, then squeeze the juice, and strain it. Add the sugar and lemon-juice to the port-wine, with the grated nutmeg; pour over it the boiling water, cover the jug, and, when the beverage has cooled a little, it will be fit for use. Negus may also be made of sherry, or any other sweet white wine, but is more usually made of port than of any other beverage. _Sufficient._—Allow 1 pint of wine, with the other ingredients in proportion, for a party of 9 or 10 children.

NOVEMBER—BILLS OF FARE.

Dinner for 18 persons.

_First Course._

Thick Grouse Soup, removed by Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.

Baked Whitings. Vase of Fried Smelts. Flowers.

Clear Ox-tail Soup, removed by Fillets of Turbot à la Crême.

_Entrées._

Poulet à la Marengo.

Fillets of Leveret. Vase of Ragoût of Lobster. Flowers.

Mushrooms sautés.

_Second Course._

Haunch of Mutton.

Cold Game Pie.

Vase of Lark Pudding. Flowers. Roast Fowls.

Boiled Ham.

Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce.

_Third Course._

Partridges, removed by Apple Tart. Plum-pudding. Shell-Fish.

Wine Jelly.

Pommes à la Vase of Vol-au-Vent Condé. Flowers. of Pears.

Blancmange.

Snipes, Prawns. removed by Apricot Tartlets. Charlotte glacée.

Dessert and Ices.

Dinner for 12 persons.

_First Course._—Hare soup; Julienne soup; baked cod; soles à la Normandie. _Entrées._—Riz de veau aux tomates; lobster patties; mutton cutlets and Soubise sauce; croûtades of marrow aux fines herbes. _Second Course._—Roast sirloin of beef; braised goose; boiled fowls and celery sauce; bacon-cheek, garnished with sprouts. _Third Course._—Wild ducks; partridges; apples à la Portugaise; Bavarian cream; apricot-jam sandwiches; cheesecakes; Charlotte à la vanille; plum-pudding; dessert and ices.

Dinner for 8 persons.

_First Course._—Mulligatawny soup; fried slices of codfish and oyster sauce; eels en matelote. _Entrées._—Broiled pork cutlets and tomato sauce; tendrons de veau à la jardinière. _Second Course._—Boiled leg of mutton and vegetables; roast goose; cold game pie. _Third Course._—Snipes; teal; apple soufflé; iced Charlotte; tartlets; champagne jelly; coffee cream; mince pies; dessert and ices.

Dinners for 6 persons.

_First Course._—Oyster soup; crimped cod and oyster sauce; fried perch and Dutch sauce. _Entrées._—Pigs’ feet à la Béchamel; curried rabbit. _Second Course._—Roast sucking-pig; boiled fowls and oyster sauce; vegetables. _Third Course._—Jugged hare; meringues à la crême; apple custard; vol-au-vent of pears; whipped cream; cabinet pudding; dessert.

* * * * *

_First Course._—Game soup; slices of codfish and Dutch sauce; fried eels. _Entrées._—Kidneys à la Maître d’Hôtel; oyster patties. _Second Course._—Saddle of mutton; boiled capon and rice; small ham; lark pudding. _Third Course._—Roast hare; apple tart; pineapple cream; clear jelly; cheesecakes; marrow pudding; Nesselrode pudding; dessert.

NOVEMBER, Plain Family Dinners for.

_Sunday._—1. White soup. 2. Roast haunch of mutton, haricot beans, potatoes. 3. Apple tart, ginger pudding.