Part 34

_Ingredients._—5 gallons of water, 28 lbs. of sugar, 6 quarts of sweet-wort, 6 quarts of tun, 3 lbs. of raisins,; ½ lb. of candy, 1 pint of brandy. _Mode._—Boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes; skim it well, and put the liquor into a convenient-sized pan or tub. Allow it to cool; then mix it with the sweet-wort and tun. Let it stand for 3 days, then put it into a barrel; here it will work or ferment for another three days or more; then bung up the cask, and keep it undisturbed for 2 or 3 mouths. After this, add the raisins (whole), the candy, and brandy, and, in 6 months’ time, bottle the wine off. Those who do not brew, may procure the sweet-wort and tun from any brewer. Sweet-wort is the liquor that leaves the mash of malt before it is boiled with the hops; tun is the new beer after the whole of the brewing operation has been completed. _Time._—To be boiled 10 minutes; to stand 3 days after mixing; to ferment 3 days; to remain in the cask 2 months before the raisins are added; bottle 6 months after. _Seasonable._—Make this in March or October.

MANNA KROUP PUDDING.

_Ingredients._—3 tablespoonfuls of manna kroup, 12 bitter almonds, 1 pint of milk, sugar to taste, 3 eggs. _Mode._—Blanch and pound the almonds in a mortar; mix them with the manna kroup; pour over these a pint of boiling milk, and let them steep for about ¼ hour. When nearly cold, add sugar and the well-beaten eggs; mix all well together; put the pudding into a buttered dish, and bake for ½ hour. _Time._—½ hour. _Average cost_, 8_d._ _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

MARCH—BILLS OF FARE.

Dinner for 18 persons.

_First Course._

Turtle or Mock Turtle Soup, removed by Salmon and dressed Cucumber.

Red Mullet. Vase of Fillets of Whitings. Flowers.

Spring Soup, removed by Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce.

_Entrées._

Fricasseed Chicken.

Vol-au-Vent. Vase of Flowers. Compôte of Pigeons.

Larded Sweetbreads.

_Second Course._

Fore-quarter of Lamb.

Braised Capon.

Boiled Tongue, Vase of Ham. garnished. Flowers.

Roast Fowls.

Rump of Beef à la Jardinière.

_Third Course._

Apricot Guinea-Fowls, larded, Rhubarb Tartlets. removed by Tart. Cabinet Pudding.

Custards. Wine Jelly. Jelly, in glasses. Vase of Flowers.

Italian Cream.

Ducklings, Damson removed by Cheesecakes. Tart. Nesselrode Pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

Dinner for 12 persons.

_First Course._—White soup; clear gravy soup; boiled salmon, shrimp sauce, and dressed cucumber; baked mullets in paper cases. _Entrées._—Filet de bœuf and Spanish sauce; larded sweetbreads; rissoles; chicken patties. _Second Course._—Roast fillet of veal and Béchamel sauce; boiled leg of lamb; roast fowls, garnished with water-cresses; boiled ham, garnished with carrots and mashed turnips; vegetables—sea-kale, spinach, or brocoli. _Third Course._—Two ducklings; guinea-fowl, larded; orange jelly; Charlotte Russe; coffee cream; ice pudding; macaroni with Parmesan cheese; spinach, garnished with croûtons; dessert and ices.

Dinner for 10 persons.

_First Course._—Macaroni soup; boiled turbot and lobster sauce; salmon cutlets. _Entrées._—Compôte of pigeons; mutton cutlets and tomato sauce. _Second Course._—Roast lamb; boiled half calf’s head, tongue, and brains; boiled bacon-cheek, garnished with spoonsfuls of spinach; vegetables. _Third Course._—Ducklings; plum-pudding; ginger cream; trifle; rhubarb tart; cheesecakes; fondues, in cases; dessert and ices.

Dinner for 8 persons.

_First Course._—Calf’s-head soup; brill and shrimp sauce; broiled mackerel à la Maître d’Hôtel. _Entrées._—Lobster cutlets; calf’s liver and bacon, aux fines herbes. _Second Course._—Roast loin of veal; two boiled fowls à la Béchamel; boiled knuckle of ham; vegetables—spinach or brocoli. _Third Course._—Wild ducks; apple custards; blancmange; lemon jelly; jam sandwiches; ice pudding; potatoes à la Maître d’Hôtel; dessert and ices.

Dinner for 6 persons.

_First Course._—Vermicelli soup; soles à la Crême. _Entrées._—Veal cutlets; small vols-au-vent. _Second Course._—Small saddle of mutton; half calf’s head; boiled bacon-cheek, garnished with Brussels sprouts. _Third Course._—Cabinet pudding; orange jelly; custards, in glasses; rhubarb tart; lobster salad; dessert.

* * * * *

_First Course._—Julienne soup; baked mullets. _Entrées._—Chicken cutlets; oyster patties. _Second Course._—Roast lamb and mint sauce; boiled leg of pork; pease pudding; vegetables. _Third Course._—Ducklings; Swiss cream; lemon jelly; cheesecakes; rhubarb tart; macaroni; dessert.

* * * * *

_First Course._—Oyster soup; boiled salmon and dressed cucumber. _Entrées._—Rissoles; fricasseed chicken. _Second Course._—Boiled leg of mutton, caper sauce; roast fowls, garnished with water-cresses; vegetables. _Third Course._—Charlotte aux pommes; orange jelly; lemon cream; soufflé of arrowroot; sea-kale; dessert.

* * * * *

_First Course._—Ox-tail soup; boiled mackerel. _Entrées._—Stewed mutton kidneys; minced veal and oysters. _Second Course._—Stewed shoulder of veal; roast ribs of beef and horseradish sauce; vegetables. _Third Course._—Ducklings; tartlets of strawberry jam; cheesecakes; Gâteau de Riz; carrot pudding; sea-kale; dessert.

MARCH, Plain Family Dinners for.

_Sunday._—1. Boiled ½ calf’s head, pickled pork, the tongue on a small dish with the brains round it; mutton cutlets and mashed potatoes. 2. Plum tart made with bottled fruit, baked custard pudding, Baroness pudding.

_Monday._—1. Roast shoulder of mutton and onion sauce, brocoli, baked potatoes. 2. Slices of Baroness pudding warmed, and served with sugar sprinkled over Cheesecakes.

_Tuesday._—1. Mock turtle soup, made with liquor that calf’s head was boiled in, and the pieces of head. 2. Hashed mutton, rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 3. Boiled plum-pudding.

_Wednesday._—1. Fried whitings, melted butter, potatoes. 2. Boiled beef, suet dumplings, carrots, potatoes, marrow-bones. 3. Arrowroot blancmange, and stewed rhubarb.

_Thursday._—1. Pea-soup made from liquor that beef was boiled in. 2. Stewed rump-steak, cold beef, mashed potatoes. 3. Rolled jam pudding.

_Friday._—1. Fried soles, melted butter, potatoes. 2. Roast loin of mutton, brocoli, potatoes, bubble-and-squeak. 3. Rice pudding.

_Saturday._—1. Rump-steak pie, haricot mutton made with remains of cold loin. 2. Pancakes, ratafia pudding.

* * * * *

_Sunday._—1. Roast fillet of veal, boiled ham, spinach and potatoes. 2. Rhubarb tart, custards in glasses, bread-and-butter pudding.

_Monday._—1. Baked soles, potatoes. 2. Minced veal and rump-steak pie. 3. Somersetshire dumplings with the remains of custards poured round them; marmalade tartlets.

_Tuesday._—1. Gravy soup. 2. Boiled leg of mutton, mashed turnips, suet dumplings, caper sauce, potatoes, veal rissoles made with remains of fillet of veal. 3. Cheese.

_Wednesday._—1. Stewed mullet. 2. Roast fowls, bacon, gravy, and bread sauce, mutton pudding, made with a few slices of the cold meat and the addition of two kidneys. 3. Baked lemon pudding.

_Thursday._—1. Vegetable soup made with liquor that the mutton was boiled in, and mixed with the remains of gravy soup. 2. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, horseradish sauce, brocoli and potatoes. 3. Apple pudding or macaroni.

_Friday._—1. Stewed eels, pork cutlets, and tomato sauce. 2. Cold beef, mashed potatoes. 3. Plum tart made with bottled fruit.

_Saturday._—1. Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, broiled beef-bones, greens and potatoes. 2. Jam tartlets made with pieces of paste from plum tart, baked custard pudding.

MARCH, Things in Season.

_Fish._—Barbel, brill, carp, crabs, crayfish, dace, eels, flounders, haddocks, herrings, lampreys, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, prawns, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench, thornback, turbot, whiting.

_Meat._—Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal.

_Poultry._—Capons, chickens, ducklings, tame and wild pigeons, pullets with eggs, turkeys, wild-fowl, though now not in full season.

_Game._—Grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcock.

_Vegetables._—Beetroot, brocoli (purple and white), Brussels sprouts, cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, kidney-beans, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, sea-kale, spinach, turnips,—various herbs.

_Fruit._—Apples (golden and Dutch pippins), grapes, medlars, nuts, oranges, pears (Bon Chrétien), walnuts, dried fruits (foreign), such as almonds and raisins; French and Spanish plums; prunes, figs, dates, crystallized preserves.

MARMALADE AND VERMICELLI PUDDING.

_Ingredients._—1 breakfast-cupful of vermicelli, 2 tablespoonfuls of marmalade, ¼ lb. of raisins, sugar to taste, 3 eggs, milk. _Mode._—Pour some boiling milk on the vermicelli, and let it remain covered for 10 minutes; then mix with it the marmalade, stoned raisins, sugar, and beaten eggs. Stir all well together, put the mixture into a buttered mould, boil for 1½ hour, and serve with custard sauce. _Time._—1½ hour. _Average cost_, 1_s._ _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

MARROW-BONES, Boiled.

_Ingredients._—Bones, a small piece of common paste, a floured cloth. _Mode._—Have the bones neatly sawed into convenient sizes, and cover the ends with a small piece of common crust, made with flour and water. Over this tie a floured cloth, and place the bones upright in a saucepan of boiling water, taking care there is sufficient to cover them. Boil them for 2 hours, remove the cloth and paste, and serve them upright on a napkin with dry toast. Many persons clear the marrow from the bones after they are cooked, spread it over a slice of toast and add a seasoning of pepper: when served in this manner, it must be very expeditiously sent to table, as it so soon gets cold. _Time._—2 hours. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note._—Marrow-bones may be baked after preparing them as in the preceding recipe; they should be laid in a deep dish, and baked for 2 hours.

MARROW DUMPLINGS, to serve with Roast Meat, in Soup, with Salad, &c.

(_German Recipe._)

_Ingredients._—1 oz. of beef marrow, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, 2 penny rolls, 1 teaspoonful of minced onion, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, salt and grated nutmeg to taste. _Mode._—Beat the marrow and butter together to a cream; well whisk the eggs, and add these to the other ingredients. When they are well stirred, put in the rolls, which should previously be well soaked in boiling milk, strained, and beaten up with a fork. Add the remaining ingredients, omitting the minced onion where the flavour is very much disliked, and form the mixture into small round dumplings. Drop these into boiling broth, and let them simmer for about 20 minutes or ½ hour. They may be served in soup, with roast meat, or with salad, as in Germany, where they are more frequently sent to table than in this country. They are very good. _Time._—20 minutes to ½ hour. _Average cost_, 6_d._ _Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 dumplings. _Seasonable_ at any time.

MARROW PUDDING, Baked or Boiled.

_Ingredients._—½ pint of bread-crumbs, 1½ pint of milk, 6 oz. of marrow, 4 eggs, ¼ lb. of raisins or currants, or 2 oz. of each; sugar and grated nutmeg to taste. _Mode._—Make the milk boiling, pour it hot on to the bread-crumbs, and let these remain covered for about ½ hour; shred the marrow, beat up the eggs, and mix these with the bread-crumbs; add the remaining ingredients, beat the mixture well, and either put it into a buttered mould and boil it for 2½ hours, or put it into a pie-dish edged with puff-paste, and bake for rather more than ¾ hour. Before sending it to table, sift a little pounded sugar over, after being turned out of the mould or basin. _Time._—2½ hours to boil, ¾ hour to bake. _Average cost_, 1_s._ 2_d._ _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

MAY—BILLS OF FARE.

Dinner for 18 persons.

_First Course._

Asparagus Soup, removed by Salmon and Lobster Sauce. Fried Filleted Fillets of Mackerel, Soles. Vase of Flowers. à la Maître d’Hôtel.

Ox-tail Soup, removed by Brill & Shrimp Sauce.

_Entrées._

Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers.

Lobster Pudding. Curried Fowl. Vase of Flowers.

Veal Ragoût.

_Second Course._

Saddle of Lamb.

Raised Pie. Roast Fowls. Boiled Capon and Vase of Flowers. White Sauce.

Braised Ham.

Roast Veal.

_Third Course._

Almond Goslings, Lobster Cheesecakes. removed by Salad. College Puddings.

Noyeau Jelly.

Italian Vase of Charlotte à la Cream. Flowers. Parisienne.

Inlaid Jelly.

Plover’s Ducklings, Eggs. removed by Tartlets. Nesselrode Pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

Dinner for 12 persons.

_First Course._—White soup; asparagus soup; salmon cutlets; boiled turbot and lobster sauce. _Entrées._—Chicken vol-au-vent; lamb cutlets and cucumbers; fricandeau of veal; stewed mushrooms. _Second Course._—Roast lamb; haunch of mutton; boiled and roast fowls; vegetables. _Third Course._—Ducklings; goslings; Charlotte Russe; Vanilla cream; gooseberry tart; custards; cheesecakes; cabinet pudding and iced pudding; dessert and ices.

Dinner for 10 persons.

_First Course._—Spring soup; salmon à la Genévése; red mullet. _Entrées._—Chicken vol-au-vent; calf’s liver and bacon aux fines herbes. _Second Course._—Saddle of mutton; half calf’s head, tongue, and brains; braised ham; asparagus. _Third Course._—Roast pigeons; ducklings; sponge-cake pudding; Charlotte à la vanille; gooseberry tart; cream; cheesecakes; apricot-jam tart; dessert and ices.

Dinner for 8 persons.

_First Course._—Julienne soup; brill and lobster sauce; fried fillets of mackerel. _Entrées._—Lamb cutlets and cucumbers; lobster patties. _Second Course._—Roast fillet of veal; boiled leg of lamb; asparagus. _Third Course._—Ducklings; gooseberry tart; custards; fancy pastry; soufflé; dessert and ices.

Dinner for 6 persons.

_First Course._—Vermicelli soup; boiled salmon and anchovy sauce. _Entrées._—Fillets of beef and tomato sauce; sweetbreads. _Second Course._—Roast lamb; boiled capon; asparagus. _Third Course._—Ducklings; cabinet pudding; compôte of gooseberries; custards in glasses; blancmange; lemon tartlets; fondue; dessert.

* * * * *

_First Course._—Macaroni soup; boiled mackerel à la maître d’hôtel; fried smelts. _Entrées._—Scollops of fowl; lobster pudding. _Second Course._—Boiled leg of lamb and spinach; roast sirloin of beef and horseradish sauce; vegetables. _Third Course._—Roast leveret; salad; soufflé of rice; ramakins; strawberry-jam tartlets; orange jelly; dessert.

* * * * *

_First Course._—Julienne soup; trout with Dutch sauce; salmon cutlets. _Entrées._—Lamb cutlets and mushrooms; vol-au-vent of chicken. _Second Course._—Roast lamb; calf’s head à la tortue; vegetables. _Third Course._—Spring chickens; iced pudding; Vanilla cream; clear jelly; tartlets; cheesecakes; dessert.

* * * * *

_First Course._—Soup à la reine; crimped trout and lobster sauce; baked whitings aux fines herbes. _Entrées._—Braised mutton cutlets and cucumbers; stewed pigeons. _Second Course._—Roast fillet of veal; bacon-cheek and greens; fillet of beef à la jardinière. _Third Course._—Ducklings; soufflé à la vanille; compôte of oranges; meringues; gooseberry tart; fondue; dessert.

MAY, Plain Family Dinners for.

_Sunday._—1. Vegetable soup. 2. Saddle of mutton, asparagus and potatoes. 3. Gooseberry tart, custards.

_Monday._—1. Fried whitings, anchovy sauce. 2. Cold mutton, mashed potatoes, stewed veal. 3. Fig pudding.

_Tuesday._—1. Haricot mutton, made from remains of cold mutton, rump-steak pie. 2. Macaroni.

_Wednesday._—1. Roast loin of veal and spinach, boiled bacon, mutton cutlets and tomato sauce. 2. Gooseberry pudding and cream.

_Thursday._—1. Spring soup. 2. Roast leg of lamb, mint sauce, spinach, curried veal and rice. 3. Lemon pudding.

_Friday._—1. Boiled mackerel and parsley-and-butter. 2. Stewed rump-steak, cold lamb and salad. 3. Baked gooseberry pudding.

_Saturday._—1. Vermicelli. 2. Rump-steak pudding, lamb cutlets, and cucumbers. 3. Macaroni.

* * * * *

_Sunday._—1. Boiled salmon and lobster or caper sauce. 2. Roast lamb, mint sauce, asparagus, potatoes. 3. Plum-pudding, gooseberry tart.

_Monday._—1. Salmon warmed in remains of lobster sauce and garnished with croûtons. 2. Stewed knuckle of veal and rice, cold lamb and dressed cucumber. 3. Slices of pudding warmed, and served with sugar sprinkled over. Baked rice pudding.

_Tuesday._—1. Roast ribs of beef, horseradish sauce, Yorkshire pudding, spinach and potatoes. 2. Boiled lemon pudding.

_Wednesday._—1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Cold beef and dressed cucumber or salad, veal cutlets and bacon. 3. Baked plum-pudding.

_Thursday._—1. Spring soup. 2. Calf’s liver and bacon, broiled beef-bones, spinach and potatoes. 3. Gooseberry tart.

_Friday._—1. Roast shoulder of mutton, baked potatoes, onion sauce, spinach. 2. Currant dumplings.

_Saturday._—1. Broiled mackerel, fennel sauce or plain melted butter. 2. Rump-steak pie, hashed mutton, vegetables. 3. Baked arrowroot pudding.

MAY, Things in Season.

_Fish._—Carp, chub, crabs, crayfish, dory, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, red and gray mullet, prawns, salmon, shad, smelts, soles, trout, turbot.

_Meat._—Beef, lamb, mutton, veal.

_Poultry._—Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets, pullets, rabbits.

_Vegetables._—Asparagus, beans, early cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, cresses, cucumbers, lettuces, pease, early potatoes, salads, sea-kale,—various herbs.

_Fruit._—Apples, green apricots, cherries, currants for tarts, gooseberries, melons, pears, rhubarb, strawberries.

MAYONNAISE, a Sauce or Salad-Dressing for cold Chicken, Meat, and other cold Dishes.

_Ingredients._—The yolks of 2 eggs, 6 tablespoonfuls of salad oil, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and white pepper to taste, 1 tablespoonful of white stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream. _Mode._—Put the yolks of the eggs into a basin, with a seasoning of pepper and salt; have ready the above quantities of oil and vinegar, in separate vessels; add them _very gradually_ to the eggs; continue stirring and rubbing the mixture with a wooden spoon, as herein consists the secret of having a nice smooth sauce. It cannot be stirred too frequently, and it should be made in a very cool place, or, if ice is at hand, it should be mixed over it. When the vinegar and oil are well incorporated with the eggs, add the stock and cream, stirring all the time, and it will then be ready for use.

For a fish Mayonnaise, this sauce may be coloured with lobster-spawn, pounded; and for poultry or meat, where variety is desired, a little parsley-juice may be used to add to its appearance. Cucumber, tarragon, or any other flavoured vinegar, may be substituted for plain, where they are liked. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 7_d._ _Sufficient_ for a small salad.

_Note._—In mixing the oil and vinegar with the eggs, put in first a few drops of oil, and then a few drops of vinegar, never adding a large quantity of either at one time. By this means, you can be more certain of the sauce not curdling. Patience and practice, let us add, are two essentials for making this sauce good.

MELONS.

This fruit is rarely preserved or cooked in any way, but is sent whole to table on a dish garnished with leaves or flowers, as fancy dictates. A border of any other kind of small fruit, arranged round the melon, has a pretty effect, the colour of the former contrasting nicely with the melon. Plenty of pounded sugar should be served with it; and the fruit should be cut lengthwise, in moderate-sized slices. In America, it is frequently eaten with pepper and salt. _Average cost._—English, in full season, 3_s._ 6_d._ to 5_s._ each; when scarce, 10_s._ to 15_s._; _seasonable_, June to August. French, 2_s._ to 3_s._ 6_d._ each; _seasonable_, June and July. Dutch, 9_d._ to 2_s._ each; _seasonable_, July and August.

MERINGUES.

_Ingredients._—½ lb. of pounded sugar, the whites of 4 eggs. _Mode._—Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and, with a wooden spoon, stir in _quickly_ the pounded sugar; and have some boards thick enough to put in the oven to prevent the bottom of the meringues from acquiring too much colour. Cut some strips of paper about 2 inches wide; place this paper on the board, and drop a tablespoonful at a time of the mixture on the paper, taking care to let all the meringues be the same size. In dropping it from the spoon, give the mixture the form of an egg, and keep the meringues about 2 inches apart from each other on the paper. Strew over them some sifted sugar, and bake in a moderate oven for ½ hour. As soon as they begin to colour, remove them from the oven; take each slip of paper by the two ends, and turn it gently on the table, and, with a small spoon, take out the soft part of each meringue. Spread some clean paper on the board, turn the meringues upside down, and put them into the oven to harden and brown on the other side. When required for table, fill them with whipped cream, flavoured with liqueur or vanilla, and sweetened with pounded sugar. Join two of the meringues together, and pile them high in the dish, as shown in the annexed drawing. To vary their appearance, finely-chopped almonds or currants may be strewn over them before the sugar is sprinkled over; and they may be garnished with any bright-coloured preserve. Great expedition is necessary in making this sweet dish; as, if the meringues are not put into the oven as soon as the sugar and eggs are mixed, the former melts, and the mixture would run on the paper, instead of keeping its egg-shape. The sweeter the meringues are made, the crisper will they be; but, if there is not sufficient sugar mixed with them, they will most likely be tough. They are sometimes coloured with cochineal; and, if kept well covered in a dry place, will remain good for a month or six weeks. _Time._—Altogether, about ½ hour. _Average cost_, with the cream and flavouring, 1_s._ _Sufficient_ to make 2 dozen meringues. _Seasonable_ at any time.

MILK.

Milk, when of good quality, is of an opaque white colour: the cream always comes to the top; the well-known milky odour is strong; it will boil without altering its appearance in these respects; the little bladders which arise on the surface will renew themselves if broken by the spoon. To boil milk is, in fact, the simplest way of testing its quality. The commonest adulterations of milk are not of a hurtful character. It is a good deal thinned with water, and sometimes thickened with a little starch, or coloured with yolk of egg, or even saffron; but these processes have nothing murderous in them.

MILK AND CREAM, to keep, in hot Weather.