Part 30

_Note._—In making the jelly, use for flavouring a very pale sherry, or the colour will be too dark to contrast nicely with the red jelly.

JELLY, Open, with whipped Cream (a very pretty dish).

_Ingredients._—1½ pint of jelly, ½ pint of cream, 1 glass of sherry, sugar to taste. _Mode._—Make the above proportion of calf’s-feet or isinglass jelly, colouring and flavouring it in any way that may be preferred; soak a mould, open in the centre, for about ½ hour in cold water; fill it with the jelly, and let it remain in a cool place until perfectly set; then turn it out on a dish; fill the centre with whipped cream, flavoured with sherry and sweetened with pounded sugar; pile this cream high in the centre, and serve. The jelly should be made of rather a dark colour, to contrast nicely with the cream. _Time._—¾ hour. _Average cost_, 3_s._ 6_d._ _Sufficient_ to fill 1½-pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

JELLY, Savoury, for Meat Pies.

_Ingredients._—3 lbs. of shin of beef, 1 calf’s-foot, 3 lbs. of knuckle of veal, poultry trimmings (if for game pies, any game trimmings), 2 onions stuck with cloves, 2 carrots, 4 shalots, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 bay-leaves; when liked, 2 blades of mace and a little spice; 2 slices of lean ham; rather more than 2 quarts of water. _Mode._—Cut up the meat and put it into a stewpan with all the ingredients except the water; set it over a slow fire to draw down, and, when the gravy ceases to flow from the meat, pour in the water. Let it boil up, then carefully take away all scum from the top. Cover the stewpan closely, and let the stock simmer very gently for 4 hours: if rapidly boiled, the jelly will not be clear. When done, strain it through a fine sieve or flannel bag; and when cold, the jelly should be quite transparent. If this is not the case, clarify it with the whites of eggs. _Time._—4 hours. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 5_s._

JELLY, to make the Stock for, and to Clarify it.

_Ingredients._—2 calf’s feet, 6 pints of water. _Mode._—The stock for jellies should always be made the day before it is required for use, as the liquor has time to cool, and the fat can be so much more easily and effectually removed when thoroughly set. Procure 2 nice calf’s feet; scald them, to take off the hair; slit them in two, remove the fat from between the claws, and wash the feet well in warm water; put them into a stewpan, with the above proportion of cold water, bring it gradually to boil and remove every particle of scum as it rises. When it is well skimmed, boil it very gently for 6 or 7 hours, or until the liquor is reduced rather more than half; then strain it through a sieve into a basin, and put it in a cool place to set. As the liquor is strained, measure it, to ascertain the proportion for the jelly, allowing something for the sediment and fat at the top. To clarify it, carefully remove all the fat from the top, pour over a little warm water, to wash away any that may remain, and wipe the jelly with a clean cloth; remove the jelly from the sediment, put it into a saucepan, and, supposing the quantity to be a quart, add to it 6 oz. of loaf sugar, the shells and well-whisked whites of 5 eggs, and stir these ingredients together cold; set the saucepan on the fire, but _do not stir the jelly after it begins to warm._ Let it boil about 10 minutes after it rises to a head, then throw in a teacupful of cold water; let it boil 5 minutes longer, then take the saucepan off, cover it closely, and let it remain ½ hour near the fire. Dip the jelly-bag into hot water, wring it out quite dry, and fasten it on to a stand or the back of a chair, which must be placed near the fire, to prevent the jelly from setting before it has run through the bag. Place a basin underneath to receive the jelly; then pour it into the bag, and should it not be clear the first time, run it through the bag again. This stock is the foundation of all _really good_ jellies, which may be varied in innumerable ways, by colouring and flavouring with liqueurs, and by moulding it with fresh and preserved fruits. To insure the jelly being firm when turned out, ½ oz. of isinglass clarified might be added to the above proportion of stock. Substitutes for calf’s feet are now frequently used in making jellies, which lessen the expense and trouble in preparing this favourite dish, isinglass and gelatine being two of the principal materials employed; but although they may _look_ as nicely as jellies made from good stock, they are never so delicate, having very often an unpleasant flavour, somewhat resembling glue, particularly when made with gelatine. _Time._—About 6 hours to boil the feet for the stock; to clarify it,—¼ hour to boil, ½ hour to stand in the saucepan covered. _Average cost._—Calf’s feet may be purchased for 6_d._ each when veal is in full season, but more expensive when it is scarce. _Sufficient._—2 calf’s feet should make 1 quart of stock. _Seasonable_ from March to October, but may be had all the year.

JOHN DORY.

_Ingredients._—-¼ lb. of salt to each gallon of water. _Mode._—This fish, which is esteemed by most people a great delicacy, is dressed in the same way as a turbot, which it resembles in firmness, but not in richness. Cleanse it thoroughly and cut off the fins; lay it in a fish-kettle, cover with cold water, and add salt in the above proportion. Bring it gradually to a boil, and simmer gently for ¼ hour, or rather longer, should the fish be very large. Serve on a hot napkin, and garnish with cut lemon and parsley. Lobster, anchovy, or shrimp sauce, and plain melted butter, should be sent to table with it. _Time._—After the water boils, ¼ to ½ hour, according to size. _Average cost_, 3_s._ to 5_s._ _Seasonable_ all the year, but best from September to January.

_Note._—Small John Dory are very good baked.

JUNE—BILLS OF FARE.

Dinner for 18 persons.

_First Course._

Asparagus Soup, removed by Crimped Salmon.

Fillets of Gurnets. Vase of Soles aux fines herbes. Flowers.

Vermicelli Soup, removed by Whitebait.

_Entrées._

Lamb Cutlets and Peas.

Lobster Patties. Vase of Tendrons de Veau Flowers. à la Jardinière.

Larded Sweetbreads.

_Second Course._

Saddle of Lamb.

Tongue.

Roast Spring Vase of Boiled Capon. Chickens. Flowers.

Ham.

Boiled Calf’s Head.

_Third Course._

Leveret, Prawns. removed by Tartlets. Iced Pudding.

Vol-au-Vent of Wine Jelly. Custards, Strawberries and Cream. in glasses. Vase of Flowers. Cheesecake. Plovers’ Eggs. Blancmange.

Goslings, removed by Fondues, in cases.

Dessert and Ices.

Dinner for 12 persons.

_First Course._—Green-pea soup; rice soup; salmon and lobster sauce; trout à la Genévése; whitebait. _Entrées._—Lamb cutlets and cucumbers; fricasseed chicken; stewed veal and peas; lobster rissoles. _Second Course._—Roast quarter of lamb and spinach; filet de bœuf à la Jardinière; boiled fowls; braised shoulder of lamb; tongue; vegetables. _Third Course._—Goslings; ducklings; Nesselrode pudding; Charlotte à la Parisienne; gooseberry tartlets; strawberry cream; raspberry-and-currant tart; custards; dessert and ices.

Dinner for 10 persons.

_First Course._—Julienne soup; salmon trout and parsley-and-butter; red mullet. _Entrées._—Stewed breast of veal and peas; mutton cutlets à la Maintenon. _Second Course._—Roast fillet of veal; boiled leg of lamb, garnished with young carrots; boiled bacon-cheek; vegetables. _Third Course._—Roast ducks; leveret; gooseberry tart; strawberry cream; strawberry tartlets; meringues; cabinet pudding; iced pudding; dessert and ices.

Dinner for 8 persons.

_First Course._—Vermicelli soup; trout à la Genévése; salmon cutlets. _Entrées._—Lamb cutlets and peas; fricasseed chicken. _Second Course._—Roast ribs of beef; half calf’s head, tongue, and brains; boiled ham; vegetables. _Third Course._—Roast ducks; compôte of gooseberries; strawberry jelly; pastry; iced pudding; cauliflower with cream sauce; dessert and ices.

Dinner for 6 persons.

_First Course._—Spring soup; boiled salmon and lobster sauce. _Entrées._—Veal cutlets and endive; ragoût of duck and green peas. _Second Course._—Roast loin of veal; boiled leg of lamb and white sauce; tongue, garnished; vegetables. _Third Course._—Strawberry cream; gooseberry tartlets; almond pudding; lobster salad; dessert.

* * * * *

_First Course._—Calf’s head soup; mackerel à la maître d’hôtel; whitebait. _Entrées._—Chicken cutlets; curried lobster. _Second Course._—Fore-quarter of lamb and salad; stewed beef à la Jardinière; vegetables. _Third Course._—Goslings; green-currant tart; custards, in glasses; strawberry blancmange; soufflé of rice; dessert.

* * * * *

_First Course._—Green-pea soup; baked soles aux fines herbes; stewed trout. _Entrées._—Calf’s liver and bacon; rissoles. _Second Course._—Roast saddle of lamb and salad; calf’s head à la tortue; vegetables. _Third Course._—Roast ducks; vol-au-vent of strawberries and cream; strawberry tartlets; lemon blancmange; baked gooseberry pudding; dessert.

* * * * *

_First Course._—Spinach soup; soles à la crême; red mullet. _Entrées._—Roast fillet of veal; braised ham and spinach. _Second Course._—Boiled fowls and white sauce; vegetables. _Third Course._—Leveret; strawberry jelly; Swiss cream; cheesecakes; iced pudding; dessert.

JUNE, Plain Family Dinners for.

_Sunday._—1. Salmon trout and parsley-and-butter, new potatoes. 2. Roast fillet of veal, boiled bacon-cheek and spinach, vegetables. 3. Gooseberry tart, custard.

_Monday._—1. Light gravy soup. 2. Small meat pie, minced veal, garnished with rolled bacon, spinach, and potatoes. 3. Raspberry-and-currant tart.

_Tuesday._—1. Baked mackerel, potatoes. 2. Boiled leg of lamb, garnished with young carrots. 3. Lemon pudding.

_Wednesday._—1. Vegetable soup. 2. Calf’s liver and bacon, peas, hashed lamb from remains of cold joint. 3. Baked gooseberry pudding.

_Thursday._—1. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, peas, potatoes. 2. Stewed rhubarb and boiled rice.

_Friday._—1. Cold beef and salad, lamb cutlets and peas. 2. Boiled gooseberry pudding and baked custard pudding.

_Saturday._—1. Rump-steak pudding, broiled beef-bones and cucumber, vegetables. 2. Bread pudding.

* * * * *

_Sunday._—1. Roast fore-quarter of lamb, mint sauce, peas, and new potatoes. 2. Gooseberry pudding, strawberry tartlets. Fondue.

_Monday._—1. Cold lamb and salad, stewed neck of veal and peas, young carrots, and new potatoes. 2. Almond pudding.

_Tuesday._—1. Green-pea soup. 2. Roast ducks stuffed, gravy, peas, and new potatoes. 3. Baked ratafia pudding.

_Wednesday._—1. Roast leg of mutton, summer cabbage, potatoes. 2. Gooseberry and rice pudding.

_Thursday._—1. Fried soles, melted butter, potatoes. 2. Sweetbreads, hashed mutton, vegetables. 3. Bread-and-butter pudding.

_Friday._—1. Asparagus soup. 2. Boiled beef, young carrots, and new potatoes, suet dumplings. 3. College puddings.

_Saturday._—1. Cold boiled beef and salad, lamb cutlets, and green peas. 2. Boiled gooseberry pudding and plain cream.

JUNE, Things in Season.

_Fish._—Carp, crayfish, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, pike, prawns, salmon, soles, tench, trout, turbot.

_Meat._—Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.

_Poultry._—Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets, plovers, pullets, rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears.

_Vegetables._—Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbages, carrots, cucumbers, lettuces, onions, parsnips, peas, potatoes, radishes, small salads, sea-kale, spinach,—various herbs.

_Fruit._—Apricots, cherries, currants, gooseberries, melons, nectarines, peaches, pears, pineapples, raspberries, rhubarb, strawberries.

JULY—BILLS OF FARE.

Dinner for 18 persons.

_First Course._

Green-Pea Soup, removed by Salmon and dressed Cucumber.

Whitebait. Vase of Stewed Trout. Flowers.

Soup à la Reine, removed by Mackerel à la Maître d’Hôtel.

_Entrées._

Lamb Cutlets and Peas.

Lobster Curry Vase of Scollops of en Casserole. Flowers. Chickens.

Chicken Patties.

_Second Course._

Haunch of Venison.

Pigeon Pie.

Boiled Capons. Vase of Spring Chickens. Flowers.

Braised Ham.

Saddle of Lamb.

_Third Course._

Roast Ducks, removed by Vanilla Soufflé.

Prawns. Raspberry Cream. Custards.

Vase of Flowers. Cherry Tart. Raspberry-and-Currant Tart. Strawberry Cream.

Creams. Green Goose, Tartlets. removed by Iced Pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

Dinner for 12 persons.

_First Course._—Soup à la Jardinière; chicken soup; crimped salmon and parsley-and-butter; trout aux fines herbes, in cases. _Entrées._—Tendrons de veau and peas; lamb cutlets and cucumbers. _Second Course._—Loin of veal à la Béchamel; roast fore-quarter of lamb; salad; braised ham, garnished with broad beans; vegetables. _Third Course._—Roast ducks; turkey poult; stewed peas à la Française; lobster salad; cherry tart; raspberry-and-currant tart; custards, in glasses; lemon creams; Nesselrode pudding; marrow pudding. Dessert and ices.

Dinner for 8 persons.

_First Course._—Green-pea soup; salmon and lobster sauce; crimped perch and Dutch sauce. _Entrées._—Stewed veal and peas; lamb cutlets and cucumbers. _Second Course._—Haunch of venison; boiled fowls à la Béchamel; braised ham; vegetables. _Third Course._—Roast ducks; peas à la Française; lobster salad; strawberry cream; blancmange; cherry tart; cheesecakes; iced pudding. Dessert and ices.

Dinner for 6 persons.

_First Course._—Soup à la Jardinière; salmon trout and parsley-and-butter; fillets of mackerel à la maître d’hôtel. _Entrées._—Lobster cutlets; beef palates, à la Italienne. _Second Course._—Roast lamb; boiled capon and white sauce; boiled tongue, garnished with small vegetable marrows; bacon and beans. _Third Course._—Goslings; whipped strawberry cream; raspberry-and-currant tart; meringues; cherry tartlets; iced pudding. Dessert and ices.

* * * * *

_First Course._—Julienne soup; crimped salmon and caper sauce; whitebait. _Entrées._—Croquettes à la Reine; curried lobster. _Second Course._—Roast lamb; rump of beef à la Jardinière. _Third Course._—Larded turkey poult; raspberry cream; cherry tart; custards, in glasses; Gâteaux à la Genévése; Nesselrode pudding. Dessert.

JULY, Plain Family Dinners for.

_Sunday._—1. Salmon trout and parsley-and-butter. 2. Roast fillet of veal, boiled bacon-cheek, peas, potatoes. 3. Raspberry-and-currant tart, baked custard pudding.

_Monday._—1. Green-pea soup. 2. Roast fowls garnished with water-cresses; gravy, bread sauce; cold veal and salad. 3. Cherry tart.

_Tuesday._—1. John dory and lobster sauce. 2. Curried fowl with remains of cold fowls, dish of rice, veal rolls with remains of cold fillet. 3. Strawberry cream.

_Wednesday._—1. Roast leg of mutton, vegetable marrow and potatoes, melted butter. 2. Black-currant pudding.

_Thursday._—1. Fried soles, anchovy sauce. 2. Mutton cutlets and tomato sauce, hashed mutton, peas, potatoes, 3. Lemon dumplings.

_Friday._—1. Boiled brisket of beef, carrots, turnips, suet dumplings, peas, potatoes. 2. Baked semolina pudding.

_Saturday._—1. Cold beef and salad, lamb cutlets and peas. 2. Rolled jam pudding.

_Sunday._—1. Julienne soup. 2. Roast lamb, half calf’s head, tongue and brains, boiled ham, peas and potatoes. 3. Cherry tart, custards.

_Monday._—1. Hashed calf’s head, cold lamb and salad. 2. Vegetable marrow and white sauce, instead of pudding.

_Tuesday._—1. Stewed veal, with peas, young carrots, and potatoes. Small meat pie. 2. Raspberry-and-currant pudding.

_Wednesday._—1. Roast ducks stuffed, gravy, peas, and potatoes; the remains of stewed veal rechauffé. 2. Macaroni served as a sweet pudding.

_Thursday._—1. Slices of salmon and caper sauce. 2. Boiled knuckle of veal, parsley-and-butter, vegetable marrow and potatoes. 3. Black-currant pudding.

_Friday._—1. Roast shoulder of mutton, onion sauce, peas and potatoes. 2. Cherry tart, baked custard pudding.

_Saturday._—1. Minced mutton, rump-steak-and-kidney pudding. 2. Baked lemon pudding.

JULY, Things in Season.

_Fish._—Carp, crayfish, dory, flounders, haddocks, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, pike, plaice, prawns, salmon, shrimps, soles, sturgeon, tench, thornback.

_Meat._—Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.

_Poultry._—Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets, plovers, pullets, rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears, wild ducks (called flappers).

_Vegetables._—Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, celery, cresses, endive, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, peas, radishes, small salading, sea-kale, sprouts, turnips, vegetable marrow,—various herbs.

_Fruit._—Apricots, cherries, currants, figs, gooseberries, melons, nectarines, pears, pineapples, plums, raspberries, strawberries, walnuts in high season, for pickling.

JULIENNE, Soup à la.

_Ingredients._—½ pint of carrots, ½ pint of turnips, ¼ pint of onions, 2 or 3 leeks, ½ head of celery, 1 lettuce, a little sorrel and chervil, if liked, 2 oz. of butter, 2 quarts of stock. _Mode._—Cut the vegetables into strips of about 1¼ inch long, and be particular they are all the same size, or some will be hard whilst the others will be done to a pulp. Cut the lettuce, sorrel, and chervil into larger pieces; fry the carrots in the butter, and pour the stock boiling to them. When this is done, add all the other vegetables and herbs, and stew gently for at least an hour. Skim off all the fat, pour the soup over thin slices of bread, cut round about the size of a shilling, and serve. _Time._—1½ hour. _Average cost._—1_s._ 3_d._ per quart. _Seasonable_ all the year. _Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note._—In summer, green peas, asparagus-tops, French beans, &c., can be added. When the vegetables are very strong, instead of frying them in butter at first, they should be blanched, and afterwards simmered in the stock.

KALE BROSE (a Scotch Recipe).

_Ingredients._—Half an ox-head or cow-heel, a teacupful of toasted oatmeal, salt to taste, 2 handfuls of greens, 3 quarts of water. _Mode._—Make a broth of the ox-head or cow-heel, and boil it till oil floats on the top of the liquor, then boil the greens, shred, in it. Put the oatmeal, with a little salt, into a basin, and mix with it quickly a teacupful of the fat broth: it should not run into one doughy mass, but form knots. Stir it into the whole, give one boil, and serve very hot. _Time._—4 hours. _Average cost_, 8_d._ per quart. _Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable in winter. _Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

KEGEREE.

_Ingredients._—Any cold fish, 1 teacupful of boiled rice, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of mustard, 2 soft-boiled eggs, salt and cayenne to taste. _Mode._—Pick the fish carefully from the bones, mix with the other ingredients, and serve very hot. The quantities may be varied according to the amount of fish used. _Time._—¼ hour after the rice is boiled. _Average cost_, 5_d._ exclusive of the fish.

KIDNEYS, Broiled (a Breakfast or Supper Dish).

_Ingredients._—Sheep kidneys, pepper and salt to taste. _Mode._—Ascertain that the kidneys are fresh, and cut them open, very evenly, lengthwise, down to the root, for should one half be thicker than the other, one would be underdone whilst the other would be dried, but do not separate them; skin them, and pass a skewer under the white part of each half to keep them flat, and broil over a nice clear fire, placing the inside downwards; turn them when done enough on one side, and cook them on the other. Remove the skewers, place the kidneys on a very hot dish, season with pepper and salt, and put a tiny piece of butter in the middle of each; serve very hot and quickly, and send very hot plates to table. _Time._—6 to 8 minutes. _Average cost_, 1½_d._ each. _Sufficient._—Allow 1 for each person. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note._—A prettier dish than the above may be made by serving the kidneys each on a piece of buttered toast cut in any fanciful shape. In this case a little lemon-juice will be found an improvement.

KIDNEYS, Fried.

_Ingredients._—Kidneys, butter, pepper, and salt to taste. _Mode._—Cut the kidneys open without quite dividing them, remove the skin, and put a small piece of butter in the frying-pan. When the butter is melted, lay in the kidneys the flat side downwards, and fry them for 7 or 8 minutes, turning them when they are half done. Serve on a piece of dry toast, season with pepper and salt, and put a small piece of butter in each kidney; pour the gravy from the pan over them, and serve very hot. _Time._—7 or 8 minutes. _Average cost_, 1½_d._ each. _Sufficient._—Allow 1 kidney to each person. _Seasonable_ at any time.

KIDNEY OMELET (a favourite French Dish).

_Ingredients._—6 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt, ½ saltspoonful of pepper, 2 sheep’s kidneys, or 2 tablespoonfuls of minced veal kidney, 5 oz. of butter. _Mode._—Skin the kidneys, cut them into small dice, and toss them in a frying-pan, in 1 oz. of butter, over the fire for 2 or 3 minutes. Mix the ingredients for the omelet, and when the eggs are well whisked, stir in the pieces of kidney. Make the butter hot in the frying-pan, and when it bubbles, pour in the omelet, and fry it over a gentle fire from 4 to 6 minutes. When the eggs are set, fold the edges over, so that the omelet assumes an oval form, and be careful that it is not too much done: to brown the top, hold the pan before the fire for a minute or two, or use a salamander until the desired colour is obtained, but never turn an omelet in the pan. Slip it carefully on to a _very hot_ dish, or, what is a much safer method, put a dish on the omelet, and turn the pan quickly over. It should be served the instant it comes from the fire. _Time._—4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 1_s._ _Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

KIDNEYS, Stewed.

_Ingredients._—About 8 kidneys, a large dessertspoonful of chopped herbs, 2 oz. butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, a little gravy, juice of half a lemon, a teaspoonful of Harvey sauce and mushroom ketchup, cayenne, and salt to taste. _Mode._—Strew the herbs, with cayenne and salt, over the kidneys, melt the butter in the frying-pan, put in the kidneys, and brown them nicely all round; when nearly done, stir in the flour, and shake them well; now add the gravy and sauce, and stew them for a few minutes, then turn them out into a dish garnished with fried sippets. _Time._—10 or 12 minutes. _Seasonable_ at any time.

LAMB.