Part 18

_Ingredients._—Damsons; to every lb. of fruit pulp allow ½ lb. of loaf sugar. _Mode._—Pick the stalks from the damsons, and put them into a preserving-pan; simmer them over the fire until they are soft, occasionally stirring them, then beat them through a coarse sieve, and put the pulp and juice into the preserving-pan, with sugar in the above proportion, having previously carefully weighed them. Stir the sugar well in, and simmer the damsons slowly for 2 hours. Skim well, then boil the preserve quickly for ½ hour, or until it looks firm and hard in the spoon; put it quickly into shallow pots, or very tiny earthenware moulds, and, when cold, cover it with oiled papers, and the jars with tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg. A few of the stones may be cracked, and the kernels boiled with the damsons, which very much improves the flavour of the cheese. _Time._—1 hour to boil the damsons without the sugar; 2 hours to simmer them slowly, ½ hour quickly. _Average cost_, from 8_d._ to 10_d._ per ¼-lb. pot. _Sufficient._—1 pint of damsons to make a _very small_ pot of cheese. _Seasonable._—Make this in September or October.

DAMSON JAM.

_Ingredients._—Damsons; to every lb. of fruit allow ¾ lb. of loaf sugar. _Mode._—Have the fruit gathered in dry weather, pick it over, and reject any that is at all blemished. Stone the damsons, weigh them, and to every lb. allow ¾ lb. of loaf sugar. Put the fruit and sugar into a preserving-pan; keep stirring them gently until the sugar is dissolved, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Boil the jam for about an hour, reckoning from the time it commences to simmer all over alike: it must be well stirred all the time, or it will be liable to burn and stick to the pan, which will cause the jam to have a very disagreeable flavour. When the jam looks firm, and the juice appears to set, it is done; then take it off the fire, put it into pots, cover it down, when quite cold, with oiled and egged papers, and store it away in a dry place. _Time._—1 hour after the jam simmers all over. _Average cost_, from 6_d._ to 8_d._ per lb. pot. _Sufficient._—1½ pint of damsons for a lb. pot. _Seasonable._—Make this in September or October.

DAMSON PUDDING.

_Ingredients._—1½ pint of damsons, ¼ lb. of moist sugar, ¾ lb. of suet or butter crust. _Mode._—Make a suet crust with ¾ lb. of flour by recipe; line a buttered pudding-basin with a portion of it; fill the basin with the damsons, sweeten them, and put on the lid; pinch the edges of the crust together, that the juice does not escape; tie over a floured cloth, put the pudding into boiling water, and boil from 2½ to 3 hours. _Time._—2½ to 3 hours. _Average cost_, 8_d._ _Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ in September and October.

DAMSON TART.

_Ingredients._—1½ pint of damsons, ¼ lb. of moist sugar, ½ lb. of short or puff crust. _Mode._—Put the damsons, with the sugar between them, into a deep pie-dish, in the midst of which place a small cup or jar turned upside down; pile the fruit high in the middle, line the edges of the dish with short or puff crust, whichever may be preferred; put on the cover, ornament the edges, and bake from ½ to ¾ hour in a good oven. If puff-crust is used, about 10 minutes before the pie is done, take it out of the oven, brush it over with the white of an egg beaten to a froth with the blade of a knife; strew some sifted sugar over, and a few drops of water, and put the tart back to finish baking: with short crust, a little plain sifted sugar, sprinkled over, is all that will be required. _Time._—½ to ¾ hour. _Average cost_, 10_d._ _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ in September and October.

DAMSONS, Baked, for Winter use.

_Ingredients._—To every lb. of fruit allow 6 oz. of pounded sugar; melted mutton suet. _Mode._—Choose sound fruit, not too ripe; pick off the stalks, weigh it, and to every lb. allow the above proportion of pounded sugar. Put the fruit into large dry stone jars, sprinkling the sugar amongst it; cover the jars with saucers, place them in a rather cool oven, and bake the fruit until it is quite tender. When cold, cover the top of the fruit with a piece of white paper cut to the size of the jar; pour over this melted mutton suet about an inch thick, and cover the tops of the jars with thick brown paper well tied down. Keep the jars in a cool dry place, and the fruit will remain good till the following Christmas, but not much longer. _Time._—From 5 to 6 hours to bake the damsons in a very cool oven. _Seasonable_ in September and October.

DAMSONS, Compôte of.

_Ingredients._—1 quart of damsons, 1 pint of syrup (_see_ SYRUP). _Mode._—Procure sound ripe damsons, pick the stalks from them, and put them into boiling syrup made by the recipe. Simmer them gently until the fruit is tender, but not sufficiently soft to break; take them up, boil the syrup for 5 minutes, pour it over the damsons, and serve. This should be sent to table in a glass dish. _Time._—About ¼ hour to simmer the damsons; 5 minutes to boil the syrup. _Average cost_, 9_d._ _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ in September and October.

DAMSONS, Preserved.

_Ingredients._—To every quart of damsons allow ½ lb. of loaf sugar. _Mode._—Put the damsons (which should be picked from the stalks and quite free from blemishes) into a jar, with pounded sugar sprinkled amongst them in the above proportion; tie the jar closely down, set it in a saucepan of cold water; bring it gradually to boil, and simmer gently until the damsons are soft, without being broken. Let them stand till cold; then strain the juice from them, boil it up well, strain it through a jelly-bag, and pour it over the fruit. Let it cool, cover with oiled papers, and the jars with tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg, and store away in a dry place. _Time._—About ¾ hour to simmer the fruit after the water boils; ¼ hour to boil the juice. _Seasonable._—Make this in September or October.

DAMSONS, or any kind of Plums, to Preserve. (Useful in Winter.)

_Ingredients._—Damsons or plums; boiling water. _Mode._—Pick the fruit into clean dry stone jars, taking care to leave out all that are broken or blemished. When full, pour boiling water on the plums, until it stands one inch above the fruit; cut a piece of paper to fit the inside of the jar, over which pour melted mutton-suet; cover down with brown paper, and keep the jars in a dry cool place. When used, the suet should be removed, the water poured off, and the jelly at the bottom of the jar used and mixed with the fruit. _Seasonable_ in September and October.

DARIOLES À LA VANILLE. (Sweet Entremets.)

_Ingredients._—½ pint of milk, ½ pint of cream, 2 oz. of flour, 3 oz. of pounded sugar, 6 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, puff-paste, flavouring of essence of vanilla. _Mode._—Mix the flour to a smooth batter, with the milk; stir in the cream, sugar, the eggs, which should be well whisked, and the butter, which should be beaten to a cream. Put in some essence of vanilla, drop by drop, until the mixture is well flavoured; line some dariole-moulds with puff-paste, three-parts fill them with the batter, and bake in a good oven from 25 to 35 minutes. Turn them out of the moulds on a dish, without breaking them; strew over sifted sugar, and serve. The flavouring of the darioles may be varied by substituting lemon, cinnamon, or almonds, for the vanilla. _Time._—25 to 35 minutes. _Average cost_, 1_s._ 8_d._ _Sufficient_ to fill 6 or 7 dariole-moulds. _Seasonable_ at any time.

DECEMBER—BILLS OF FARE.

Dinner for 18 persons.

_First Course._

Mock-Turtle Soup, removed by Cod’s Head & Shoulders and Oyster Sauce.

Stewed Eels. Fried Whitings. Vase of Flowers.

Julienne Soup, removed by Soles aux fines herbes.

_Second Course._

Haunch of Mutton

Roast Goose. Ham and Brussels Stewed Beef à la Jardinière. Sprouts.

Vase of Flowers.

Game Pie.

Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce.

_Entrées._

Fillets of Grouse and Sauce Piquante.

Curried Lobster. Mutton Cutlets and Soubise Sauce. Vase of Flowers.

Sweetbreads.

_Third Course._

Apricot Pheasants, Victoria Tourte. removed by Sandwiches. Plum-Pudding.

Lemon Jelly. Vanilla Cream. Champagne Jelly.

Vase of Flowers.

Blancmange.

Tipsy Cake. Wild Ducks, Mince Pies. removed by Iced Pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

Dinner for 12 persons.

_First Course._—Game soup; clear vermicelli soup; codfish au gratin; fillets of whitings à la maître d’hôtel. _Entrées._—Filet de bœuf and sauce piquante; fricasseed chicken; oyster patties; curried rabbit. _Second Course._—Roast turkey and sausages; boiled leg of pork and vegetables; roast goose; stewed beef à la Jardinière. _Third Course._—Widgeon; partridges; Charlotte aux pommes; mince pies; orange jelly, lemon cream; apple tart; cabinet pudding. Dessert and ices.

Dinner for 10 persons.

_First Course._—Mulligatawny soup; fried slices of codfish; soles à la crême. _Entrées._—Croquettes of fowl; pork cutlets and tomato sauce. _Second Course._—Roast ribs of beef; boiled turkey and celery sauce; tongue, garnished; lark pudding; vegetables. _Third Course._—Roast hare; grouse; plum-pudding; mince pies; Charlotte à la Parisienne; cheesecakes; apple tart; Nesselrode pudding. Dessert and ices.

Dinner for 8 persons.

_First Course._—Carrot soup; crimped cod and oyster sauce; baked soles. _Entrées._—Mutton kidneys à la Française; oyster patties. _Second Course._—Boiled beef and vegetables; marrow-bones; roast fowls and water-cresses; tongue, garnished; game pie. _Third Course._—Partridges; blancmange; compôte of apples; vol-au-vent of pears; almond cheesecakes; lemon pudding. Dessert and ices.

Dinners for 6 persons.

_First Course._—Rabbit soup; brill and shrimp sauce. _Entrées._—Curried fowl; oyster patties. _Second Course._—Roast turkey and sausages; boiled leg of pork; vegetables. _Third Course._—Hunters’ pudding; lemon cheesecakes; apple tart; custards, in glasses; raspberry cream. Dessert.

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_First Course._—Ox-tail soup; crimped cod and oyster sauce. _Entrées._—Savoury rissoles; fowl scollops à la Béchamel. _Second Course._—Haunch of mutton; boiled chickens and celery sauce; bacon-cheek, garnished with Brussels sprouts; vegetables. _Third Course._—Snipes; orange jelly; cheesecakes; apples à la Portugaise; apricot-jam tartlets; soufflé of rice. Dessert.

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_First Course._—Vermicelli soup; soles à la maître d’hôtel; fried eels. _Entrées._—Pork cutlets and tomato sauce; ragoût of mutton à la Jardinière. _Second Course._—Roast goose; boiled leg of mutton and vegetables. _Third Course._—Pheasants; whipped cream; meringues; compôte of Normandy pippins; mince pies; plum-pudding. Dessert.

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_First Course._—Carrot soup; baked cod; fried smelts. _Entrées._—Stewed rump-steak à la Jardinière; fricasseed chicken. _Second Course._—Roast leg of mutton, boned and stuffed; boiled turkey and oyster sauce; vegetables. _Third Course._—Wild ducks; fancy pastry; lemon cream; damson tart, with bottled fruit; custards, in glasses; cabinet pudding. Dessert.

DECEMBER, Plain Family Dinners for.

_Sunday._—1. Carrot soup. 2. Roast beef, horseradish sauce, vegetables. 3. Plum-pudding, mince pies.

_Monday._—1. Fried whitings, melted butter. 2. Rabbit pie, cold beef, mashed potatoes. 3. Plum-pudding cut in slices and warmed, apple tart.

_Tuesday._—1. Hashed beef and broiled bones, pork cutlets and tomato sauce; vegetables. 2. Baked lemon pudding.

_Wednesday._—1. Boiled neck of mutton and vegetables,—the broth served first with a little pearl barley or rice boiled in it. 2. Bakewell pudding.

_Thursday._—1. Roast leg of pork, apple sauce; vegetables. 2. Rice snowballs.

_Friday._—1. Soles à la crême. 2. Cold pork and mashed potatoes, broiled rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 3. Rolled jam pudding.

_Saturday._—1. The remains of cold pork curried, dish of rice, mutton cutlets and mashed potatoes. 2. Baked apple dumplings.

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_Sunday._—1. Roast turkey and sausages, boiled leg of pork, pease pudding; vegetables. 2. Baked apple pudding, mince pies.

_Monday._—1. Hashed turkey, cold pork, mashed potatoes. 2. Mincemeat pudding.

_Tuesday._—1. Pea-soup made from liquor in which pork was boiled. 2. Boiled fowls and celery sauce, vegetables. 3. Baked rice pudding.

_Wednesday._—1. Roast leg of mutton, stewed Spanish onions, potatoes. 2. Baked rolled jam pudding.

_Thursday._—1. Baked cod’s head. 2. Cold mutton, roast hare, gravy and red-currant jelly. 3. Macaroni.

_Friday._—1. Hare soup, made with stock and remains of roast hare. 2. Hashed mutton, pork cutlets, and mashed potatoes. 3. Open tarts, rice blancmange.

_Saturday._—1. Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, vegetables. 2. Mince pies, baked apple dumplings.

DECEMBER, Things in Season.

_Fish._—Barbel, brill, carp, cod, crabs, eels, dace, gudgeons, haddocks, herrings, lobsters, oysters, perch, pike, shrimps, skate, sprats, soles, tench, thornback, turbot, whiting.

_Meat._—Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, venison.

_Poultry._—Capons, chickens, fowls, geese, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, teal, turkeys, widgeons, wild ducks.

_Game._—Hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcocks.

_Vegetables._—Broccoli, cabbages, carrots, celery, leeks, onions, potatoes, parsnips, Scotch kale, turnips, winter spinach.

_Fruit._—Apples, chestnuts, filberts, grapes, medlars, oranges, pears, walnuts, dried fruits, such as almonds and raisins, figs, dates, &c.,—crystallized preserves.

DESSERT.

With moderns the dessert is not so profuse, nor does it hold the same relationship to the dinner that it held with the ancients,—the Romans more especially. On ivory tables they would spread hundreds of different kinds of raw, cooked, and preserved fruits, tarts, and cakes, as substitutes for the more substantial comestibles with which the guests were satiated. However, as late as the reigns of our two last Georges, fabulous sums were often expended upon fanciful desserts. The dessert certainly repays, in its general effect, the expenditure upon it of much pains; and it may be said, that if there be any poetry at all in meals, or the process of feeding, there is poetry in the dessert, the materials for which should be selected with taste, and, of course, must depend, in a great measure, upon the season. Pines, melons, grapes, peaches, nectarines, plums, strawberries, apples, pears, oranges, almonds, raisins, figs, walnuts, filberts, medlars, cherries, &c. &c., all kinds of dried fruits, and choice and delicately-flavoured cakes and biscuits, make up the dessert, together with the most costly and _recherché_ wines. The shape of the dishes varies at different periods, the prevailing fashion at present being oval and circular dishes on stems. The patterns and colours are also subject to changes of fashion; some persons selecting china, chaste in pattern and colour; others, elegantly-shaped glass dishes on stems, with gilt edges. The beauty of the dessert services at the tables of the wealthy tends to enhance the splendour of the plate. The general mode of putting a dessert on table, now the elegant tazzas are fashionable, is, to place them down the middle of the table, a tall and short dish alternately; the fresh fruits being arranged on the tall dishes, and dried fruits, bon-bons, &c., on small round or oval glass plates. The garnishing needs especial attention, as the contrast of the brilliant-coloured fruits with nicely-arranged foliage is very charming. The garnish _par excellence_ for dessert is the ice-plant; its crystallized dewdrops producing a marvellous effect in the height of summer, giving a most inviting sense of coolness to the fruit it encircles. The double-edged mallow, strawberry, and vine leaves have a pleasing effect; and for winter desserts, the bay, cuba, and laurel are sometimes used. In town, the expense and difficulty of obtaining natural foliage is great, but paper and composite leaves are to be purchased at an almost nominal price. Mixed fruits of the larger sort are now frequently served on one dish. This mode admits of the display of much taste in the arrangement of the fruit: for instance, a pine in the centre of the dish, surrounded with large plums of various sorts and colours, mixed with pears, rosy-cheeked apples, all arranged with a due regard to colour, have a very good effect. Again, apples and pears look well mingled with plums and grapes, hanging from the border of the dish in a négligé sort of manner, with a large bunch of the same fruit lying on the top of the apples. A dessert would not now be considered complete without candied and preserved fruits and confections. The candied fruits may be purchased at a less cost than they can be manufactured at home. They are preserved abroad in most ornamental and elegant forms. And since, from the facilities of travel, we have become so familiar with the tables of the French, chocolate in different forms is indispensable to our desserts. Olives, too, should not be omitted; these should be served in a small, deep glass dish, with a little of the liquor, or brine, poured over.

DESSERT DISHES.

The tazza, or dish with stem, the same as that shown in our illustrations, is now the favourite shape for dessert-dishes. The fruit can be arranged and shown to better advantage on these tall high dishes than on the short flat ones. All the dishes are now usually placed down the centre of the table, dried and fresh fruit alternately, the former being arranged on small round or oval glass plates, and the latter on the dishes with stems. The fruit should always be gathered on the same day that it is required for table, and should be tastefully arranged on the dishes, with leaves between and round it. By purchasing fruits that _are in season_, a dessert can be supplied at a very moderate cost. These, with a few fancy biscuits, crystallized fruit, bon-bons, &c., are sufficient for an ordinary dessert. When fresh fruit cannot be obtained, dried and foreign fruits, compôtes, baked pears, stewed Normandy pippins, &c. &c., must supply its place, with the addition of preserves, bon-bons, cakes, biscuits, &c. At fashionable tables, forced fruit is served growing in pots, these pots being hidden in more ornamental ones, and arranged with the other dishes. A few vases of fresh flowers, tastefully arranged, add very much to the appearance of the dessert; and, when these are not obtainable, a few paper ones, mixed with green leaves, answer very well as a substitute. In decorating a table, whether for luncheon, dessert, or supper, a vase or two of flowers should never be forgotten, as they add so much to the elegance of the _tout ensemble_. In summer and autumn, ladies residing in the country can always manage to have a few freshly-gathered flowers on their tables, and should never be without this inexpensive luxury. On the Continent, vases or epergnes filled with flowers are invariably placed down the centre of the dinner-table at regular distances. Ices for dessert are usually moulded; when this is not the case, they are handed round in glasses, with wafers to accompany them. Preserved ginger is frequently handed round after ices, to prepare the palate for the delicious dessert wines. A basin or glass of finely-pounded lump sugar must never be omitted at a dessert, as also a glass jug of fresh cold water (iced, if possible), and two goblets by its side. Grape scissors, a melon-knife and fork, and nutcrackers, should always be put on table, if there are dishes of fruit requiring them. Zests are sometimes served at the close of the dessert; such as anchovy toasts or biscuits. The French often serve plain or grated cheese with a dessert of fresh or dried fruits. At some tables, finger-glasses are placed at the right of each person, nearly half filled with cold spring water, and in winter with tepid water. These precede the dessert. At other tables, a glass or vase is simply handed round, filled with perfumed water, into which each guest dips the corner of his napkin, and, when needful, refreshes his lips and the tips of his fingers. After the dishes are placed, and every one is provided with plates, glasses, spoons, &c., the wine should be put at each end of the table, cooled or otherwise, according to the season. If the party be small, the wine may be placed only at the top of the table, near the host. The following dishes may be introduced at dessert, according to season:—

=Dish of Nuts.=—These are merely arranged piled high in the centre of the dish, as shown in the engraving, with or without leaves round the edge. Filberts should always be served with the outer skin or husk on them; and walnuts should be well wiped with a damp cloth, and then with a dry one, to remove the unpleasant sticky feeling the shells frequently have. _Seasonable._—Filberts from September to March; walnuts from September to January.

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=Box of French Plums.=—If the box which contains them is exceedingly ornamental, it may be placed on the table; if small, on a glass dish; if large, without one. French plums may also be arranged on a glass plate, and garnished with bright-coloured sweetmeats, which make a very good effect. All fancy boxes of preserved and crystallized fruit may be put on the table or not, at pleasure. These little matters of detail must, of course, be left to individual taste. _Seasonable._—May be purchased all the year; but are in greater perfection in the winter.

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=Dish of Mixed Fruit.=—For a centre dish, a mixture of various fresh fruits has a remarkably good effect, particularly if a pine be added to the list. A high raised appearance should be given to the fruit, which is done in the following manner. Place a tumbler in the centre of the dish, and, in this tumbler, the pine, crown uppermost; round the tumbler put a thick layer of moss, and, over this, apples, pears, plums, peaches, and such fruit as is simultaneously in season. By putting a layer of moss underneath, so much fruit is not required, besides giving a better shape to the dish. Grapes should be placed on the top of the fruit, a portion of some of the bunches hanging over the sides of the dish in a négligé kind of manner, which takes off the formal look of the dish. In arranging the plums, apples, &c., let the colours contrast well. _Seasonable._—Suitable for a dessert in September or October.

=Box of Chocolate.=—This is served in an ornamental box, placed on a glass plate or dish. _Seasonable._—May be purchased at any time.

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=Dish of Apples.=—The apples should be nicely wiped with a dry cloth, and arranged on a dish, piled high in the centre, with evergreen leaves between each layer. The inferior apples should form the bottom layer, with the bright-coloured large ones at the top. The leaves of the laurel, bay, holly, or any shrub green in winter, are suitable for garnishing dessert dishes. Oranges may be arranged in the same manner; they should also be wiped with a dry cloth before being sent to table.

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