Part 5

There also by the rivers are found _Anthilis Marina_, _Visnaga_, the first _Apocymum_, and _Oleander_ with purple flowers, by the inhabitants call’d _Defle_, and a delicate kind of _Scabiosa Melissa Maluca_, and if you go to the gardens, you see _Heliotropium majus_, _Convolvulus folio acuto_, _Vitis nigra_, _Phaseolus Turcicus_, with yellow flowers, which still retain the ancient name of _Lubie_, _Lysimachia lutea_, and wild vines call’d _Labruscæ_, whereon nothing groweth but only the flowers, call’d _Ocnanthe_; and also a shrub like unto the _Polygonus_ of _Carol Clusius_, which climbs up into high trees, and hang down again from the twigs; and I verily believe they are the same with _Ephedra_, whereof _Pliny_ maketh mention in the seventh chapter of his twenty sixth book.

When I went farther, with an intention to consider the plants that grew in the country, first came before me some _Sycomores_, whereof chiefly _Dioscorides_ and _Theophrastus_ make mention, and tell us of two sorts; and when I call’d these things to mind, I light of one of the second sort of _Sycomores_, whereof abundance grow in _Cyprus_, wherefore these wild figg-trees might be call’d, the one the _Cyprish Sycomore_-tree, and the other the _Egyptian Sycomore_-tree, according to the places where they are most frequent and fruitful. I found a great many of them: the _Moors_ and _Arabians_ call them _Mumeitz_, they are as great and as high as the white Mulberry-trees, and have almost the same leaves, but they are only somewhat rounder, and are also whole at or about the sides; they bear fruit not unlike to our figg-trees, only they are sweeter, and have no little seeds within, and are not so good; wherefore they are not esteem’d, and are commonly sold only to the poorer sort of people; they grow in all fields and grounds, as you may see by the words of the second book of the _Chronicles_ ix. 27. _And the king made silver in ~Jerusalem~ as stones, and Cedar-trees made he as the Sycomore-trees that are in the low plains in abundance_. _Zacheus_ did climb upon such a one when he had a great mind to see our Saviour. _Essaias_ also maketh mention of them in his ninth chap. vers. 10, and _Amos_ in his seventh chap. vers. 14, where he saith of himself: _I was a herds-man, and a gatherer of Sycomore-fruit_. These two sorts are very like one another, in stem, leaves, and fruit, only as the fruit of the one comes more out of the great stems and great twigs, so that of the other does the same, but not out of the stems and twigs immediately, but out of twigs or sprouts without leaves of the length of five or six inches, whereon they grow sometimes very thick, and in a bunch together. These trees bear fruit three or four times yearly, which are small, of an ash-colour, oblong, round, like Prunes, and are found upon the trees almost all the year long. Hereabouts also grow many thorns, whereof is made mention in Scripture, by the inhabitants call’d _Hauseit_, and by the _Arabians Hausegi_, but the _Latins_ call them _Ahamnus_; and also white Poplars, still to this day call’d _Haur_ by the _Arabians_. There also groweth a great and high tree which beareth delicate leaves and flowers, pleasant to look upon, by the inhabitants call’d _Zensetacht_, but by _Rhasis_ and _Avicenna_, _Astirgar_, & _Astergir_, and _Azadaracht_, whereof you see here and there several planted in the streets, to make a pleasant shade in the summer, the fruit thereof remaineth upon them all the year long, until they put out again a-new, for they are hurtful, and kill the dogs if they eat thereof.

Near the town upon the highlands, (where you see abundance of corn-fields, and abundance of pleasant Olive-trees, that reach quite up to mount _Libanus_) are found _Polium montanum_, _Pecten veneris_, _ferrum equinum_, _Chamæleon niger_, with it’s sharp pointed and black roots and leaves, very like unto the leaves of _Carlina_, whereof the stalks are of a reddish colour, a span long, and of the thickness of a finger; whereon are small prickly heads, of a blewish colour, not unlike to those of the little _Eryngium_. Another fine plant grows thereabouts, call’d _Sathar_ in their language, but when I consider it’s beautiful purple-colour’d flowers, and it’s small leaves which are something long withal, I rather judge it to be the _Hasce_ of the _Arabians_, or the true _Thyme_ of _Diosc._ which we call _Serpillum Romanum_. It hath as pleasant an acrimony as any spice can have, wherefore the inhabitants use it very much, whole or in powder, at home and abroad, with and without their meat, chiefly for to correct an ill digestion of their stomach. This herb is never found in our Apothecaries shops, they take another in it’s room, which hath lesser and greener heads, and is rather the first _Satureia_ of _Diosc._ brought from _Candia_. There are also two sorts of _Clinopodium_, whereof the lesser and tenderer (considering it’s long stalks, leaves and flowers, which grow in good order, and at equal distances one over the other) may very well be taken for the true one of the _Diosc._ There are also _Ilex minor_, _Sabina baccifera_, _Terebinthus_, and many more.

In the town are found several strange plants; one called _Musa_, whereof the stalks are from nine to twelve foot high, which are smooth, and without they are inclosed in their leaves, and often quite surrounded like our reeds, of a fine shining green; at the top thereof the leaves spread themselves out, and look like a great bush of feathers, for they are very long, and so broad, that the biggest person may lie upon them with his whole body very well. These leaves have a rib in the middle, which keepeth them up streight, and so strongly, that although the wind breaketh them at the sides in several places, yet notwithstanding they remain upright. These trees bear their fruit no more than once, wherefore they are cut down, and so the root shoots out several other stalks about a foot distant from the old one, which grow up again, and bring forth fruit, which groweth on a thick stalk in great numbers; they are almost shaped like the _Citruls_, round and bended, only they are less, smooth without, invironed with a thick rind, which is first yellow, but when they are kept a few days it grows black, it is easily separated when they are new; within they are whitish, full of seeds, sweet and good to eat; but they fill mightily, and are apt to gripe: Wherefore, (as _Theophrastus_ mentioneth in the fifth chapter of his fourth book) _Alexander_ the Great forbid his army to eat them, when he went into the _Indies_. There groweth but very little of this fruit about _Tripoli_, but it is brought from the neighbouring places plentifully. We also find there another tree, not unlike unto our _Privett_, by the _Arabians_ called _Alcana_, or _Henne_, and by the _Grecians_, in their vulgar tongue _Schenna_, which they have from _Egypt_, where, but above all in _Cayro_, they grow in abundance. The _Turks_ and _Moors_ nurse these up with great care and diligence, because of their sweet-smelling flowers, and put them into earthen pots, or wooden cases or boxes, to keep them in the winter in vaults from the frost, which they cannot endure. And because they hardly begin to sprout before _August_, they water them with Soap-suds, but others lay lime about the root, to make it put forth the earlier, that it may flower the sooner, because of the pleasantness of the smell of the flowers, which is somewhat like musk: They are of a pale yellow colour, and stand in spikes of the length of a span, but not very close, so that leaves appear between them; their twigs are also of the same colour, whereof many are sent to us, to cleanse the teeth with, as it were with a brush, when they are bruised a little at the ends. They also, as I am informed, keep their leaves all winter, which leaves they powder and mix with the juice of Citrons, and stain therewith, against great holydays, the hair and nails of their children of a red colour, which colour perhaps may be seen with us on the mains and tails of _Turkish_ horses. The powder is greenish, and so common with them, that you see in their _Batzars_ whole bags full thereof standing before their shops, which come from _Ægypt_ and _Africa_, from whence whole ship-loads are sent through _Turky_, as I have seen myself in this harbour several, from whence the _Turkish_ Emperor hath yearly a great revenue. The _Arabians_ burn their _Spodium_ out of the root thereof, as _Avicenna_ remarks in his seventeenth chap. This being thus, it appeareth that there is no small difference between these two, ours and theirs; I am of opinion, that theirs (which is mentioned in the first chapter of _Solomon’s Song_) is liker to that which _Dioscor._ describeth, than our _Ligustrum_.

Thereabouts is also found within and without the gardens a peculiar sort of mallows, by them called _Chethince_, which is very large, and high, and, like other trees, spreads it’s woody twigs and soft boughs, that are covered with a brownish bark; amongst the rest I saw one as big as a man’s middle, the leaves thereof are of a dark green, long, and at the sides towards the point crenated; it’s flowers are rather bigger than other mallows, of a blew colour; their seeds I did never see. Hard by I found another outlandish _Doschet_ flower, which was almost decay’d, so that it had neither leaves, flowers nor seeds: It was about three foot high, the stem and twigs were hairy, hollow within as other stalks, of a green colour, inclining somewhat to yellow, which had at top many other shoots, each of them had behind like unto other tree-stems it’s proper joint. This is so juicy quite through, that it drops almost with milk, which is sharper than any spurge. I made great inquiry of them about it, but could have no certain account thereof; but as it seemed to me, it is very like unto _Xabra_ and _Camarronus_ of _Rhasis_ by the _Arabians_ called _Tanaghut_ and _Sabeam_, and may be taken, according to that author’s description, for it.

Farther hereabouts, chiefly in the town upon the cisterns and conduits, I found _Adiantum_, by the Apothecaries called _Capillus Veneris_, and in old walls the _Apollinaris_. I also found in the shops in their _Batzars_ two sorts of roots, whereof one was rounder, which may be the _Bulcigeni_ of the _Venetians_, which are called _Thrasi_ at _Verona_, where they grow (as the learned _Malthiolus_ testifieth) many of these are sent out of _Egypt_ to _Tripoli_, and sold there, chiefly to eat in _June_, by the name of _Habel_, _Assis_ and _Altzis_, this being true, and they being very like both in name and quality to the grains of _Altzelem_ of the _Arabians_, they must be the same, although _Rhasis_ reckoneth these amongst the fruits. The other called by them _Hakinrigi_, and _Hakeuribi_ is somewhat longer, not unlike to our _Doronicum_; there is also a great many of them to be sold; they are hard, of a sweetish taste, with a piercing bitterness, and in their bigness, and white nerves (which spread themselves under ground in the gardens round about like unto the wild _Angelica_ of _Tragus_) so like to the _Haronigi Serapionis_, and to the _Durungi_ and _Durunegi_ of _Avicenna_, according to their description, and so uniform, that they must be taken for the same. Then I found also in their shops abundance of the seeds of _Sumach_, whereof they make a red powder, to excite the appetite of the stomach. These and more strange and unknown simples I did find at _Tripolis_. But because it would be too tedious to describe them all, therefore I have only made mention of those that authors have describ’d.

CHAP. V.

_Which way I travell’d from ~Tripolis~ farther to the two famous cities of ~Damant~ and ~Halepo~._

After I had rested for several weeks in _Tripolis_, and had observed that city, it’s building, and pleasant situation, and moreover the manners, customs, and habits, as well of the low as high ones, I propounded to myself to travel to _Aleppo_, which is almost the biggest, and the most famous trading city of _Syria_, which lies five or six days journey towards the north-east of _Tripolis_. And when I met with some companions to travel with me, we stored ourselves with provisions, _viz._ bread, cheese, eggs, _&c._ for our journey, and so set out of _Tripolis_ the ninth of _Novemb._ _Anno 1573_.

By the way we met with a great deal of rain, which commonly begins at that time of the year, and continueth almost all the winter long; this kept us so much back, that we reached not to _Damant_, which is in the mid-way from _Tripolis_ to _Aleppo_, before the fourth day. There we lodged in one of their great Champs, call’d _Carvatscharas_, where we had a chamber assign’d us, in which we found neither table nor chairs, nor bench, nor bed, only upon the floor was laid a _Stromatzo_, twisted of canes, which was to serve us instead of them all. There we bought in their _Batzar_ some victuals according to our pleasure, and staid there all night long. The town, which some take to be the old _Apamia_, is pretty big, and pretty well built; it lies in a valley between hills, so that you can see nothing of it, the castle only excepted, which lieth on the hill, and guardeth it very well, before you are just come to it. Round about it there are many orchards and kitchen-gardens, which they water out of the river _Hasce_, which is pretty large, and runs thro’ the town. The water they lift up with wheels, fix’d in the river for that purpose, that pour it into channels that carry it into the gardens, and so water them in the great heat of the sun, to refresh them. These gardens had been worth my seeing, but my fellow-travellers were in haste, and so we put on the next morning for _Aleppo_.

By the way we saw very good corn-fields, vineyards, and fields planted with cotton, which is brought from thence, and sold to us under the name of the place where it grew, and also silks and other goods that are bought there at the first hand. In these countries are a great many wild asses, call’d _Onagri_, the skins of them are very strong to wear, and as they prepare them, finely frock’d on the outside as strawberries are, or like the skin of the _Sepia_, or cuttle-fish, wherefore they commonly make their scabbards for their scymiters, and sheaths of their knives thereof. Their blades are water’d on both sides very subtilly; they are made of good metal, well harden’d, and so sharp, chiefly those that are made in _Damascus_, that you may cut with them a very strong nail in pieces, without any hurt to the blade. They wear rather knives than daggers, which they tie to their girdles with finely wrought tapes, by their backs.

When we went on and came to the promontory of mount _Libanus_, we saw abundance of villages by the way, which for the most part are inhabited by Christians, _viz._ _Syrians_, _Maronites_, &c. with whom we did lodge sometimes over-night; these entertain’d us very civilly, and gave us such wine to drink as grew on the mountains, than which I hardly remember I ever drank better. Amongst the rest of the villages we came to one call’d _Hanal_, lying high in a fruitful country, where, as I am inform’d, in former days a very fine city stood, which is so desolated, and in process of time decay’d to that degree, that in our days there is almost nothing left of it but a small village, and here and there in the fields some small ruins of old houses.

We went on farther between the mountains, where we spy’d a little town upon the hills, and above it a strong castle, which it is said the _French_ did formerly build, that lieth in a very convenient place between the mountains, so that you must go just by it; but because it is haunted with evil spirits and hobgobblins, it remaineth unrepair’d and uninhabited. We left it on our left hand, and came out into a spacious corn-field well till’d, where on our left we saw the town _Sermin_ at a great distance, and near to it and about it, great woods of _Pistacio_-trees, which are gathered there, and sent to _Tripolis_, and so by the merchants to us: Some of them grow also near the high-ways, chiefly in the village of _Basilo_, where we stay’d all night.

In our way we found nine or ten Champs, call’d _Caravatscharas_: these are open inns, where the caravans and travellers go in, commonly towards evening, to stay there all night; they are free to any body, but you find neither meat nor drink there, if you will have it you must bring it along with you, and must be contented to lie upon straw, if you can have it, upon the lower wall, which goes round about the sides, on purpose to give to horses, asses, and camels their food upon it. They are generally three miles distant from one another; they are large and stately, and as strong in walls as castles, commonly built four-square, and have within a large yard, and round about it are stables which are quite open, just like cloisters. Some of them have a garrison of nine or twelve Janisaries, to keep the roads clean, and to protect the travellers from assaults of the inhabitants and _Arabians_.

When we had travell’d over several rough mountains, and came almost near to _Halepo_, we saw at last the city just like _Damand_, of the bigness of _Strasbourg_; at the gates we dismounted, because in _Turky_ no outlandish man hath liberty to ride thro’ a city, and so we went into it, and I went into the _French Fundique_ to take my lodgings, as all _Germans_ use to do.

CHAP. VI.

_Of the situation of the potent city of ~Halepo~, of the buildings thereof, and also of the delicate fruits, and fine plants that grow there within and without the gardens._

The town of _Halepo_, which is the greatest and most potent in _Syria_, anciently call’d _Nerea_, is in some places well fortify’d with ditches and walls, only they are not quite round it, so that one may (the same it is with _Tripolis_) at any time of night go in and out; neither are the gates, as used in our country, chiefly in cities of account, beset with soldiers, but you will only see two or three waiting at the head-gates, where the highways go through, which are rather there to take custom, than to keep the gates, neither have they any arms. But in the middle of the city there is a castle on a high hill, which is strong, large, surrounded with walls and ditches, and well beset with a good guard. Concerning their other buildings, which are flat at the top, and cover’d with a sort of pavement, that one may walk on the tops of them, they are like unto them of _Tripolis_. Amongst the rest there is a very magnificent building, which they say hath cost a great deal of money, which hath for it’s entrance a very low and small door, so that one must bend himself very low that will go into it, but when you come in, you find there delicate large halls, high open arches, very pleasant and cool to sit underneath in the summer, water-works, orchards, and kitchen-gardens, where among the rest was one of these _Ketmy_’s: Besides these there was also some fine Mosques with steeples, which were round and small, but very high; some of them had a balcony at the top, like unto a garland, whereupon the waits are, and their priests go about at the time of prayers, to call people in. But for other stately buildings, that might be erected for the memory of some potent King or Prince, there is none.

Without the city they have here and there some country-houses; among the rest one built for the _Turkish_ Emperor, at four miles distance from the city, where he used to be sometimes, chiefly when he is at war with the _Sophy_, King of _Persia_, that he may presently assist his army in case of necessity; this is very large, but not built so stately as so great a monarch deserveth. In the great garden is a chapel built by the river that runs through it upon pillars, where the _Great Sultan_ used to hold conferences with his Privy-counsellors and Visier-bashaws. It happen’d in the reign of _Solyman the Great_, as the gardiner did relate to us, that when they were assembled, to consult whether it was more profitable to him to suffer the _Jews_ in his provinces, or to root them quite out; after every one had given his opinion, and most of them were of the opinion, that they ought not to be tolerated, because of their unsufferable usury wherewith they oppressed his subjects; and after the Emperor had heard every ones sentiment, he gave them also to understand his, and that in this instance, _viz._ He bad them look upon a flower-pot, that held a quantity of fine flowers of divers colours, that was then in the room, and bid them consider whether each of them in their colour, did not set out the other the better; and that if any of them should decay, or be taken away, whether it would not somewhat spoil the beauty of the rest. After every one had heard the _Sultan_’s opinion, and did allow of it to be true; the Emperor did begin to explain this, and said, The more sorts of nations I have in my dominions under me, as _Turks_, _Moors_, _Grecians_, &c. the greater authority they bring to my kingdoms, and make them more famous. And that nothing may fall off from my greatness, I think it convenient, that all that have been together so long hitherto, may be kept and tolerated so still for the future; which pleased his council so well, that they all unanimously agreed to it, and so let it remain as it was.