Mr. Ray's travels, Vol. 2

Part 30

Chapter 303,890 wordsPublic domain

Towards the east, are other people which esteem themselves Christians, and among the rest, chiefly the _Nestorians_ called after the Heretic _Nestorius_, who was a Bishop at _Constantinople_. Some of their priests live upon the mount _Calvaria_ in the temple, and there are a great many adherents to this sect, most of them living in _Mesopotamia_, _Chaldea_ and _Assyria_, but chiefly in the mountainous country of the _Curtans_, called _Carduci_ by _Ptolomy_, which they almost quite possess, and have poisoned with their base and obnoxious error, as if it were by an infectious air; for in passing through, I have found many of them in their cities, as _Hapril_, _Carcuck_, _Mosel_, formerly called _Nineveh_. They are strong and warlike people, but full of vices, and from their infancy given to robbing. They inhabit towards north and east, as is before said, upon the _Armenians_ and _Medes_; and they are a very ancient people, whereof chiefly _Xenophon_ maketh mention under the name of _Carducci_, and are called to this day _Curters_. They speak their peculiar language, which neither the _Arabians_, _Armenians_, nor _Turks_ do understand; they are of a brownish colour, like unto the _Surians_ and _Maronites_, and wear the same cloth or habiliments that one cannot readily discern or distinguish one from the other, save only by their flesh coloured lists in their turbants. The Grand Signior is their head, whom they obey, and they are kept and respected very well by the _Turks_, partly that he may not give them occasion for an insurrection, because they are upon the borders, and partly because _Mahomet_ hath charged them to be kind to them before others, and that the rather, because he had a frier of their sect called _Sergius_ for his tutor, who did baptize him, and counselled and assisted him to make such laws, and to give them to his adherents; and so you may still see, that they agree more than any other sect with the _Saracens_. For whereas they believe, that in Christ, according to his two natures, are two distinct persons, one of the Godhead, the other of the Manhood. They will not allow, any more than _Mahomet_, the Virgin _Mary_ to be the mother of God, but the mother of Christ, according to his human nature. They have a Prelate instead of the Pope, whom they call _Jacelich_. They bless and give the Sacrament as the _Surians_ do, and use in their spiritual services the _Chaldean_ language, else they speak the common of their provinces, _viz._ in their own country, as is abovesaid, their own language; in _Chaldea_ and _Mesopotamia_, commonly the _Arabian_ and _Saracen_ language. So in _Assyria_ beyond the river _Tygris_, where the two mighty Princes the _Turk_ and the King of _Persia_ do border upon one another, the language of the _Turks_, _Persians_ and _Medes_, although they are quite differing. These and other languages the holy Apostles did understand, and in them they did speak on the day of Pentecost, when they received the Holy Ghost, as you may read in _Acts_ ii. verse 5. where it is thus written: ‘And there were dwelling at _Jerusalem_, _Jews_, devout men out of every nation under heaven, each whereof heard the Apostles speak in his own language wherein he was born, as that of the _Parthians_, _Medes_, _Elamites_, or _Persians_, that of those also that live in _Mesopotamia_ and _Judea_, &c.’ This sect was rejected and condemned in the council of _Ephesus_.

CHAP. XVI.

_Of the ~Jacobites~ called ~Golti~._

In the temple of mount _Calvaria_ also live, in the chapel behind the Sepulchre of Christ, another sort, that boast to be Christians, call’d _Jacobites_, after _Jacob_ the Heretic, who was a pupil of the Patriarch of _Alexandria_. They pretend to have been first converted to the Christian Religion by the holy Evangelist and Apostle _Matthew_; but they did not adhere to it, but fell afterwards into a great many errors, so that in our time they are divided into other sects and orders. For some have assumed the order of St _Macharius_, who with _Eutichius_ did own or believe no more but one nature in Christ; others that of St _Anthony_, who was an Eremite in the year of our Lord Christ 324, in _Egypt_. Others have their male children circumcised; but others, and the greater part, have their children baptized with fire, and have crosses made on their foreheads or temples, according to the words of St _John_ the _Baptist_ in the third chapter of St _Matthew_ v. 11. _He that cometh after me, shall baptize you with the Holy Ghost and with fire._ They live chiefly in _Egypt_, and in other adjacent places. They are generally subject unto the _Turkish_ Sultan, and speak the vulgar _Arabian_ language, and agree in most points, partly with the _Abyssins_, and partly with the _Surians_. We saw many of their wives go about in the temple, they wear hats near a span high, which at top have a broad brim like unto our bonnets, else they are habited like unto the _Surians_. This Heresy was rejected and condemn’d in the _Chalcedonian_ council.

CHAP. XVII.

_Of the ~Abyssins~, Priest ~John~ called ~Lederwick~, subject unto the King of the ~Moors~._

These live at _Jerusalem_ in the temple of mount _Calvaria_, just by the church door towards the left, and have through their lodging a peculiar way, so that without hindrance, according to their pleasure they may go in and out; and pretend that their King hath made a peculiar agreement to let his subjects have free egress and regress. According to all appearance they are a naked people, yet for all that they may be rich and able; they are of a dark brown colour. When we spoke to them by an interpreter, they shew’d themselves very kind and friendly, and always did give with a great deal of discretion such answers to our questions, that one might easily conclude that they were of good understanding, and well instructed and grounded in their religion. To their King is given, in the beginning of his reign, the sirname of _David_, which else are call’d _Lederwick_, and by the _Persians_, _Amma_, to shew and to make known by it, that they are derived from the kingly race and stem of _David_ and _Solomon_; and to prove this, they alledge the history of the Queen of _Sheba_, call’d _Merquerda_, who, as we read in Scripture, came from rich _Arabia_, with many camels laden with gold, spices, and precious stones, to _Jerusalem_, to see the great wisdom and glory of _Solomon_, whereof she had heard much. When she had been there a good while, and in the mean time was got with child by _Solomon_, and brought him a son into the world call’d _Meytich_, she left him at _Jerusalem_, but she return’d into her own country again. Many years after, when the son was grown up, and came to his understanding, his father, seeing he had more sons, was persuaded to send him home to his mother, who had a greater kingdom than he. So he did dispatch him, and sent along with him the chiefest of his courtiers, and sent him away with a great train, as did become a King. When he was come into his kingdom, he entertained these lords and gentlemen very honourably, and promoted them before all others to the highest and best places, that they might the willinger stay with him. But all this would not prevail with them, but they grew daily more tired, and unwilling to stay longer in these strange and unaccostum’d countries; and this encreased daily more and more, and at length to that height, that they resolved that, if the King would not give them free leave, they would endeavour to make their escape clandestinly against the King’s will to _Jerusalem_ in _Judea_. When this their design came before the King he was very angry, and order’d immediately, that a mark should be burnt on their foreheads, that every body might know them; and issued a proclamation. That all his subjects might watch them, and if any of them, that were a going away should be taken, they should detain them, and send them to him again. Now as at this time the marks did begin, and then those had them that were of a great race, so they are retained by their posterity to this very day, as we still see in these times, that their nobility have them on their foreheads towards the right; yet not all, for there are some that wear them rather upon their shields and arms, &c. These marks are not all alike, for in some you see a bear, a dragon’s head, &c. in others a lyon, a wolf, or three crossed arrows, &c. because every one hath that made that they give in their coats of arms; they colour it with an oil which they call _Achalcinte_, and is brought to them from _Greece_. Besides this custom, they still keep in many things to the ancient ones of the Jews, for they keep the Sabbath for their peculiar holiday; and also they do not eat all sorts of flesh, nor any of them that are forbid as unclean in the Old Testament; they pretend that the holy Apostle _Philip_ hath, when he travell’d with the Chamberlain of _Candaces_ Queen of the _Moors_ to _Gaza_, and converted him there, allow’d them this and other things, being born Jews. Circumcision they believe unnecessary, and that it can neither profit nor hurt a Christian. And again, Baptism they believe to be necessary, wherefore through all his large dominions they bring their children to it on the third day, and baptize them yet with fire, in the name of _God the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost_, whom they believe to proceed only from the Father, and not from the Son, according to the words of St _Matthew_, chap. iii, vers. 11. _He shall baptize you with the Holy Ghost and with fire._ They take the oil of _Achalcinte_, dip a stick into it, and lay frankincense upon it, and set it on fire; and so they let some drops fall down, which do not hurt the children, being mix’d with the oil; and at last they make a cross with it upon the left side of their forehead near unto the temple.

They begin their _Lent_ about _Easter_, as the _Armenians_, wherein the lay-men eat nothing else but fruit, herbs, and pulse; but their Priest generally nothing but bread and water, and so they do every Wednesday and Fryday throughout all the year. They marry also according to the words of St _Paul_, that a Priest shall be a husband of one wife; they give the Lord’s Supper to young and old alike in leaven’d bread in both kinds; and they confess their sins like unto the _Jacobites_, to no body but only God. The _Portuguese_ that go to the _Indies_ know them very well, and love them for being good soldiers, and are glad if they will live among them, and go out and in with them.

CHAP. XVIII.

_Of the MARONITES._

Besides all these there is also a sort of Christians, who first after _Maro_ the Heretic were call’d _Maronites_; who believed that there is but one Nature, Understanding, and Work in Christ, according to the opinion of _Macharius_ the Heretic, whom he followeth diligently; but since they have by degrees left this, and are return’d to the Popish religion again. And although they are still of it, yet they give the Sacrament in both kinds to the lay-men, as almost all other nations do, according to the words of the institution of our Lord Christ. In all other points they follow the _Roman_ religion more than any other nation. Their Priests wear over their cloaths black hair vestments. They live for the most part in _Syria_, but chiefly upon the promontory of mount _Libanus_, whereupon they have a monastery within a day’s journey of _Tripoli_, call’d _Our Lady_’s, which is situated underneath a large rock, wherein their Patriarch dwelleth, whom they respect very much, and kiss his hands with their knees bended, _&c._ whereof I have made mention here before. The Patriarchs are still to this day chosen by the commons, and afterwards confirmed by the Pope; and so this (when he after the decease of his predecessor, came into a dispute with one of his competitors concerning the election) did presently, unknown to his adversary, go to _Rome_, and so obtained in person the patriarchal sea from the Pope.

The common people are in their shape and habits so like unto the _Surians_, and their neighbours the _Arabians_, that except by their turbants none can know them from each other. They are a couragious and war-like people, very well provided with guns and other arms, as well as their confederates the _Trusci_; and because they are not subject, nor pay any contribution unto the _Turkish_ Sultan, therefore they still keep their bells and other privileges.

They speak the _Arabian_ language, and their books are also written (as many as I could see of them in their churches) with _Arabian_ characters or letters, which they always kiss with great reverence when they take them up, or lay them down, according to the custom of all other eastern people or nations, as well Heathens as Christians.

They keep a very severe order, and never eat flesh, and on their fasts neither butter nor eggs, but live upon fruits, as beans, peas, _French_-beans, and such other common victuals. But yet if any Merchants, or Pilgrims, come from _Tripoli_, or any other places, they let them want neither for meat nor drink; nay, they shew themselves to every body so benevolent (as I have found it three several times) and civil, that one would wish to stay some time with them. These live not continually in the temple of mount _Calvaria_, but go often thither on pilgrimages.

CHAP. XIX.

_Of the ~Latinists~ or ~Papists~._

The _Latinists_ or _Papists_, living at _Jerusalem_ in the often before-named temple, are Friers of the order of the _Lesser Franciscans_; they chiefly possess the holy Sepulchre of our Lord Jesus Christ, which they keep in very good order, and read their _Hora_’s diligently, wherefore their father stileth himself Guardian of the holy Sepulchre and mount _Sion_. Besides this, they are possessed of more holy places, as at _Bethlehem_ the stable wherein our dear Lord Christ did lie in the manger with the Ox and the Ass; in the mountains of _Judea_, the temple of St _John the Baptist_; in _Bethania_, the Sepulchre wherein _Lazarus_ had lain four days when Christ raised him from the dead, and here and there many others. These, as all know, are dispersed in a great many places and kingdoms; nay, almost thro’ all the world. Their head is the Pope of _Rome_, who pretends to be the Vicegerent of Christ, and taketh upon himself so much power, as to prescribe to all men laws according to his own pleasure, which Christendom finds every day to it’s great grief. Wherefore in the mean while they are grown into so many divisions, idolatry, and ceremonies, that they quite out-do all the before-named nations. But being that they are in these our times so very well described, that, thanks to God, they are very well known to every body, therefore I forbear to write more of them, and will only before I conclude, make mention of these brethren that live at _Jerusalem_, only in a few points, and say that these that live in the monastery at _Jerusalem_ are about twenty in number more or less, according as they go and come, and among them are _Spaniards_, _Italians_, _French-men_ and _Germans_, &c. that commonly are sent thither by Kings and Princes; but being that they have more churches and places in and without _Jerusalem_ to provide for, their Father Guardian distributeth them, sends some to _Bethlehem_ to look after the manger of Christ, others upon the hills of _Judea_; to the mount of _Olives_, and towards _Bethania_, &c. but before all others, always two and two into the temple of mount _Calvaria_, to stay there for fourteen days together. But being that the temple is always lock’d up, that the Priests that are within it may not want for food, as well as others that are with them, therefore three holes, one bigger than the other, are made in the great door of the church, that thro’ them all necessaries of meat and drink may be convey’d to them. Those that are thus lock’d up in the temple, do but look diligently after the holy Sepulchre, and read their _Hora_’s, with singing and praying, and to look after the lamps; but chiefly those that hang in the Sepulchre of Christ to illuminate it. There are about twenty of these lamps, one better and clearer than the other; they belong for the most part to great persons, as Kings and Princes, whereof they have their yearly revenue, that is sent them by their brethren; but chiefly from _Italy_ and the _Italian_ Princes, and the most Catholic King of _Spain_. But from _Germany_, _England_, and also now _Cyprus_ the isle since it hath been taken by the _Turks_, they complain they have nothing as they had in former ages; and the most Christian King of _France_, doth also already begin to forget them, which they have found some years since; and the number of the Pilgrims doth also decrease, which formerly used to flock thither in great numbers, and sometimes to reward them, besides meat and drink, very nobly, which they find very prejudicial to them, seeing they have no revenues of any other lands or the like.

They receive the Pilgrims, that come in to them, very kindly, and treat them very well with meat and drink, and shew them all the holy places, and keep them so long until they have seen every thing to their satisfaction, and are willing to depart.

They are but very meanly cloathed, like unto poor Mendicants; they live very privately, and keep their concerns very close, because of the _Arabian_ horse-men or _Beduins_, that fall upon them daily, and ravage these countries continually, wherefore they are in great danger. When they come, you must at least give them meat and drink, if not other booty, as I saw my own self at _Bethlehem_ when I first arrived there, that twelve horse-men, with guns, arrows, and darts, very well armed, came to the gates of the temple, and they were forced to satisfy them, before they would leave them, and to give them good words besides. So that they are not only sufficiently plagued by them, but also by the Sangiacks and Cadis, the _Turkish_ magistrates at _Jerusalem_, who have continually their eyes over them that are well to pass; for covetousness is so great with them, that if they can but hear of one that hath money, they study night and day, how (if possible they can) they may right or wrong make him punishable. So they lately accused the Eastern Christians falsly, and punish’d them in some hundred ducats; whereat the Bashaw of _Damascus_, under whose command _Jerusalem_ is, did wink, in hopes to have a great snack out of it.

CHAP. XX.

_Of the Knights of the temple of ~Jerusalem~, the Order of the ~Johannites~._

Having made mention of these, I remember still another Order, that is, the _Johannites_, or _Knights Templars of Jerusalem_, which did first begin in the reign of _Baldewin de Burgo_, the second of that name, and the third King of _Jerusalem_. This Order is more secular than divine, and therefore quite differing from all the rest, for they need not to say Mass, nor perform any other devotion; but when they have heard Mass, and said so many _Pater-Nosters_ and _Ave-Marias_, they have sufficiently discharged their office. This Order was first invented by his Holiness the Pope to that end, and endow’d with many privileges, that they might resist and oppose the _Turks_, and that all Infidels and Heretics might by them and their adherents, by force of arms, be driven and routed out of the _Roman_ empire. And that he might promote this design of his more earnestly, he took in those chiefly that were well born, and had great revenues (as Princes, Counts, and other Noblemen). So it hath often happen’d formerly, chiefly when Popery was in a flourishing condition, that along with the Pilgrims, that had a mind to see the holy places, and to go to the Land of Promise, many persons of quality came, moved thereunto out of great zeal, together with them, to see them also, and to take upon them the order of that Knighthood, in the Sepulchre of our Lord Christ, as the proper place for that purpose. And besides that, other considerations there were which moved them to it, _viz._ The high title, and the authority of the place, and great privileges, whereby they hoped to be still preferr’d to greater dignities. Now as every one of them had laid before them to consider these points and articles, which every one must promise and take an oath to keep them strictly, some great and potent men found it so severe and hard, as you may see by that what followeth, that they were not only astonish’d at it, but refused openly to take it upon them. But what is laid before them that are made Knights, and also what ceremonies are used in it, I thought convenient to mention here briefly.

If there be one or more of them ready for it, that have at the instance of the Guardian, according to the ancient custom, been at confession, and also received the Sacrament, _sub una Specie_, under one species, on mount _Calvaria_, they are with great ceremonies conducted from thence into the holy Sepulchre, whither are also convey’d some other things that belong thereunto, _viz._ A fine book, a sword richly tipp’d with gold, with a red velvet girdle, a chain weighing about a hundred _Hungarian_ ducats, whereon hangeth a golden cross of this form and shape, a pair of spurs with red velvet straps, which are laid down one by another upon the altar of the Sepulchre. As soon as the Gentleman cometh into it, they begin immediately to say Mass, and after that they sing without some Latin Psalms. In the mean while the Gentleman lieth down upon his knees in the Sepulchre before the Guardian, until the Friers have done singing. Then the Guardian bids all that stand about, to say _Our Father_ and an _Ave-Maria_, in behalf of the Gentleman that is to be knighted. When this is done, he admonish’d the Gentleman, before he taketh the oath, to consider upon what condition he is admitted there; when this is done, he bids the standers-by pray for him once more, and then admonisheth the Gentleman again, and telleth him also, that hereafter he must be in all things subject and obedient to the _Roman_ church; that he must fight and resist the _Turks_ and _Lutherans_ as Enemies and Heretics, so long as his blood and heart is warm. Then the Guardian asketh him farther, whether he doth receive all these points, (as they are written word by word in that book, and order’d by his Holiness the Pope, and subscribed by his own hand) and whether he will swear by the holy Sepulchre to keep them. Whereupon he consents to it presently, and promiseth with great eagerness and joy to keep it with all his heart, and thanketh God that he hath made him worthy of this blessing, and for having made him capable of it. After this the Monks begin again a long song; and then the Guardian taketh up the three pieces, the chain, sword and spurs, and puts them on him, and so adorneth him as beginning Knight. At last he taketh also the book, and puts it before him, and telleth him once more what he is about, and what he is going to swear. When he hath understood it, he kneeleth down again, and puts out his two fingers, which the Guardian puts upon the red cross in the book, and readeth to him the oath; the contents whereof are these: