Part 27
On the 27th of _September_ in the year 1575 after dinner, the father Guardian did send to the other Lords of the temple, to let us into the temple of mount _Calvaria_, which the _Turks_ keep always locked up. But we and some other friars in their own habit, went with their father Guardian to the temple of the mount, which first of all the pious Queen _Hellen_, mother of the great Emperor _Constantine_ (after she had destroyed the temple of _Venus_ that was built upon the place of the grave) did build, as she did also build several churches in several places, _viz._ That at _Bethlehem_, where _Christ_ was born: That of the holy Apostle _James_ the Great, in the place of the upper town where he was beheaded: And another on the mount of Olives, where _Christ_ did ascend into heaven: As also another at _Bethania_, where _Christ_ did raise _Lazarus_ his dear friend from the dead, and in many other places, at _Nazareth_, and on the mount _Thabor_, &c. But when afterward the city of _Jerusalem_ was many times besieged, and at length taken from the Christians, by the unbelieving _Saracens_, _Hequen_ that malicious King of _Ægypt_, did in the year of Christ 1011, demolish these churches, and so they remained until after his decease his son _Daber_ came to the government, who afterwards in the year 37. did give leave to _Constantine_ the Emperor of _Constantinople_ (when he renewed with him their old correspondency) to rebuild it again at his own cost and charges. In these our times, when it remaineth in the possession of the _Turks_, free egress and regress is quite denied to the Christian Pilgrims that come to see the holy places: For when they saw that many Christians came yearly thither from all places, _viz._ From _Armenia_, _Æthiopia_, _Syria_, _Ægypt_, _Greece_, _Italy_, nay from all places of _Europe_, they have put a certain sum of money (according as they are near, or farther off, under his dominions or not) to be paid by them, to be admitted. For some pay two or three seckins or ducats, others four and five; but we that are outlandish, as _Italians_, _Frenchmen_, and _Germans_ (as well knowing we do not spare for money) must pay nine seckins a piece, and that without any remission, must be paid in weighty _Turkish_ or _Venetian_ ducats: And they keep the temple locked up close, until every one of them has paid their due: By these means the Grand Signior hath acquired himself a considerable yearly revenue, which amounts to several thousand ducats yearly. But yet it is now-a-days nothing near to what it hath been formerly, when all was under Popish darkness, and the Pilgrims used to flock thither in great numbers. For since in our time, by the Grace of God, the holy Gospel hath been brought to light again, and began to be preached, (which sheweth us a far nearer and better way to find Christ, and to have true and full pardon and remission of our sins) so that daily more come to the knowledge of the truth, and return to the Lord, his revenues decrease as much as the number of the Pilgrims that used to resort thither.
When we came pretty near to the temple, and expected to have seen mount _Calvaria_, the _Franciscans_ told us, that this mount, together with the holy grave, and the garden (wherein Christ did first appear unto _Mary Magdalen_) were intirely taken into the temple, so that no heigth at all was to be seen without.
Just when we came into the court of the temple there appeared an old heathenish prison, wherein are prisoners kept to this day, near which did stand the _Prison-gate_ (whereof we saw still some part of the wall up in the wall of the church) through which Christ did carry his cross to the place of sculls, which in former days was without the town, as you may clearly see in St _Mark_, chap. xvii. 20. where he writes: ‘And they led him out to crucify him.’ And in _Hebrews_, chap. xiii. 12. where it is plainly writ, that ‘Christ suffered without the gate.’ But when afterwards the Emperor _Adrian_ did rebuild and enlarge the desolated town, he did also surround with a wall the place where our Lord Jesus Christ did suffer, which was without towards the north-west, beyond the mount _Moria_, so that now it is situated almost in the middle of the city of _Jerusalem_, and because of this inlargement he call’d the town after his sir-name _Helia_.
We staying a great while at the gate, before they did open it unto us, several Oriential Christians, to wit, _Greeks_, _Jacobites_, _Armenians_, &c. came to us to visit their Priests, and to perform their devotion in it, so that about three-score went in with us.
The building of the temple is very large, of strong walls, and so thick, that it taketh away the Light within: it is richly covered with grey marble within and without, and supported by some marble pillars about a fathom and a half thick, so strongly, that one may conclude from thence, that neither labour nor costs were spared in it’s building. Yet the _Turks_, (notwithstanding the holy places and the costliness of the building) have in some places spoiled and demolished some part of the walls thereof, so that now they are no more like to the old ones that were before, and besides (as the Guardian told us) half of it is hardly remaining. Yet it is still very large, and so well closed up again, that one can hardly perceive the loss thereof.
As we went through, we passed by the grave of Christ, in a glorious large chapel, called our _Ladies_, which the _Franciscans_ have in possession, and is hung with tapestry very well wrought. Within it is a great altar, on each side whereof is to be seen a nick, artificially made of white marble, the windows whereof are very well guarded with iron bars: In that towards the left hand is kept a piece of the column whereon Christ was whip’d; it is of a reddish colour, three spans long, and four over. In the other on the right there is a small crucifix, in the middle whereof is in-laid a small piece of the true cross of Christ.
From thence we went farther into the vestry; which hath several large rooms, where we staid until the _Franciscans_ had put on their usual habits to go their rounds with us, and to shew us the holy places with the usual ceremonies. When they had made themselves ready we came out again into the church, and left the chancel of the _Græcians_, that is in the middle, and the holy grave upon our right hand, and went to the left to another chapel, whereby the _Græcians_ have an altar without, by which, in the marble floor, are two holes to be seen, wherein they pretend that Christ was detained prisoner until they had fixed the cross for him on the place of the sculls. This chapel is within very deep, and so dark, that when you go into it you believe that you go into a cave, where the _Romanists_ believe (as I understood by a _French man_ of their convent, who was in a Priest’s habit, and as we went about, standing before the altar, did tell us, what they had done to Christ our Lord, in every place) that they did detain Christ (as in a place where-into they threw their dust) to mock him, until his cross was got ready for him.
Just by the chapel behind the chancel they shew on a high arch another place, where the soldiers did share Christ’s cloaths amongst them, and cast lots for his coat.
Somewhat farther about they shew a pair of stairs of twenty nine steps, which we descended, and came into a great chapel of Queen _Helen_, situated underneath mount _Calvaria_, wherein is still towards the right hand of the altar, a glorious and beautiful high seat of marble whereon the Queen used to sit, when she had a mind to overlook the workmen, to see whether they went on right; for she loved building mightily, as appeareth still to this day by the number of her mighty buildings. Behind this seat are eleven steps, which go farther down mount _Calvaria_, where the cistern hath been, wherein Queen _Helen_ found the cross of Christ.
Underneath on the altar, ’tis true, there stands one, but it is new, and therefore to be supposed, to be put there of late years. At the bottom of the stairs do also appear very plainly the crack’d rocks, as it is mentioned in Scripture: _And the rocks rent._ And these rents or cracks are a foot wide, and so deep as to reach from the top to the bottom of the rocky mount of _Calvaria_.
When we came up into the church again, they shewed us at the bottom of mount _Calvaria_, a chapel that was locked up, and in it underneath the altar a large blackish stone with some reddish spots upon it, in the shape of a piece of a pillar, which was brought thither from _Pilate_’s house of Judicature, whereon our Lord did sit, when the soldiers did put the crown of thorns on his holy head, and did salute him as a King with their knees bended, and did also mock him, spit in his face, and whip him. This crown was twisted out of thorns, called by the _Arabians_, _Nausegi_ and _Athausegi_; and by the _Græcians_ and _Latanists_, which have kept the same name, _Rhamus_, whereof there are three sorts, the first of which is the true one (which is also common in _France_ and _Italy_) which doth not only grow without, but also within the town of _Jerusalem_ plentifully; this puts out early in the spring, into long, thin and pliable twigs, with a great many long and strong prickles. Just by it cometh out above from the chancel of the _Græcians_, a path up to mount _Calvaria_, which they forced from the _Georgians_, as they did before from the _Armenians_, by giving money to the _Turks_; which is very common in these countries; for if one hath any business to be done by the _Turks_, it cannot be easier obtained, than if you bribe them more than your adversary, wherefore it happeneth very often that such places are taken away from one nation, and given to the other.
Underneath this way or gallery you ascend nineteen steps to go up to the mount _Calvaria_, where we saw two chapels one behind the other, which were open, and had a very delicate floor, artificially inlaid with flowers of several colours, the like whereof is hardly to be seen any where else.
At the top of the stairs we left our shoes, and went in, and attended the Priest, who did also there, as he had done in other places before, give us a short account of what had been done to our Lord Jesus Christ in these places, _viz._ that in the hindmost chapel his hands and feet had been extended, and sharp nails drove through them, and so with a great deal of indignation he was fixed to the cross. And that in the foremost our Lord Christ did hang on the cross between the two malefactors, where there was still to be seen the hole wherein the cross of our Lord did stand. He also briefly repeated to us the seven words which he did say when he was upon the cross; and for a conclusion he told us, that his holiness the Pope had laid there indulgences for ever, for all sins and transgressions, to be distributed among the pilgrims.
When we had done we went farther into the chapel, and saw first a place two cubits high, which was also covered with fine ashen-coloured marble, watered with blue, in the middle whereof was a round hole about a span over, and was lined with tin, wherein did stand the cross of our Lord Christ, which is so closely tipped and lined, that the pilgrims can take neither much nor little of this, nor any other place, as the holy grave, or _Bethelem_ where Christ was born, _&c._ Wherefore notwithstanding the pretence of the _Franciscans_, that in their _Agnus Dei_’s and crucifixes are little pieces of the fore-mentioned places, it is all false and nothing of truth in it, which they must confess themselves, it being all covered with marble. Near to this hole, both to the right and left, where the crosses of the two thieves did stand, in the room of them two others are erected, where hard by that on the left at the inside, is to be seen a long and large fissure in the rock of the mount, which the Queen left on purpose open in the marble pavement, so that you may very plainly see it, and it goeth down very deep, as I have told you before.
When we came down again from the mount, and come out behind the chancel towards the gate of the great church, there lieth in the pavement a fine and large marble, which is surrounded, or taken in, with iron barrs in the same place, where _Joseph_ and _Nicodemus_, the two disciples of Christ, did wrap up the body of Christ, after it was taken down, in linnen with spices.
From thence as we went farther towards the grave of our Lord Christ, we left below towards the left on the place of sculls, another chapel, wherein are the graves of some Christian Kings, _viz._ _Gottofredi_, and _Baldewin_, _&c._ which took the Land of Promise by force from the Infidels, and came towards the right by the chancel of the _Greeks_ into a great round and high building of the holy grave, which butts upon the church, and is below towards it, it standing upon very strong double marble pillars, quite open: it is covered with lead, and hath at the top a great window, where the light falleth in, which is four fathom square, where underneath is the holy grave of our Lord Jesus Christ under the open sky, so that at all times, both rain, dew and snow fall upon it.
Before the passage into the Sepulchre is a small chapel, wherein is nothing of any moment to be seen, but a square stone, just before the door of the grave; this is of the true rock of the grave, about eight inches thick, whereon (as some say) the Angel of the Lord, that rolled back the stone from the door, did sit. This was also useful and did serve to keep the great grave-stone, that was before the door of the grave (which is hardly three foot high) steady, that it might not give backwards. That the door was but low, and that the stone did lean before it, you may sufficiently see out of the holy Evangelist St _Luke_, chap. xxiv. 12. when he saith: ‘Then arose _Peter_, and ran unto the Sepulchre, and stooping down, _&c._’ And also in St _John_, chap. xx. 11. where you read: ‘But _Mary_ stood without at the Sepulchre weeping: and as she wept, she stooped down, and looked into the Sepulchre.’ And also the holy Apostle and Evangelist St _John_ came before _Peter_ to the Sepulchre, and looked into it, and saw the linnen cloaths, but did not go in himself. And we read also of the door of the Sepulchre, and that the great stone before it used to be rolled. When you will go into the door you must stoop very much, and rather creep than go into it. The Sepulchre within is even with the floor of the chapel, and of the whole church, and is so large, that four persons may stand very easily by one another.
After the Priest had ended his speech which he made in the Sepulchre, of the Resurrection of Christ, which we heard without in the chapel, and had also proclaimed the Pope’s indulgences for ever, we went in also, and looked upon the rock whereout the Sepulchre was cut, and found it underneath on the right hand (altho’ it had been very much torn by the Infidels) still in very good order, so that we could discern it still distinctly, where now the monks have made an altar, and covered it with a large fair marble. Over it hung about twenty lamps, which made the Sepulchre (which else is very dark) very light; one whereof belongeth to the Catholic King of _Spain_, another to the Christian King of _France_, and others to other Princes; they look very carefully after them, because they bring them in a considerable revenue yearly. The holy Sepulchre is lined within and without with grey marble, and chiefly without some adorned with carved columns that stand between it.
On the outside of the door of the Sepulchre doth hang a fine golden piece, wherein our Lord Christ is very artificially wrought, as he did appear after his Resurrection unto _Mary Magdalen_ first, and afterwards also to the women: At the top of the Sepulchre is also a small round steeple, which is covered with lead, and upheld with six double marble columns: Besides this there is at the back of the Sepulchre another plain chapel, wherein the _Jacobites_, as I was informed, perform their Devotion.
More at the left hand, as we went out of the Sepulchre again, near to it in the pavement, are two large circles, rarely inlaid of _Mosaic_ work, in the middle whereof are two round stones of marble, one whereof is white, and the other red, lying in the same place of the garden, where _Mary Magdalen_ turned about, and took our Lord Jesus Christ to be the Gardener. Thus much I thought convenient to relate of these places that are shewn in the circuit.
When I found myself to be in those places where our dear Lord Christ did walk about, teach, and by his passion, death, resurrection and ascension work our redemption, and procure and purchase our salvation, from his heavenly father again, I did remember and rejoice at these incomparable benefits, and merciful treasures with all my heart; for it cannot otherwise be, but that every true Christian, that is upon this mount of _Calvaria_, and thinks there of the cross of Christ, and in the Sepulchre of his glorious resurrection, must find great passions within his breast; as you also read in the last chapter of St _Matthew_, vers. 8. of the women, where you find these words: ‘And they departed quickly from the sepulchre, with fear and great joy.’ This I found also in my heart and mind, so that it was, as if I saw our Lord Jesus Christ the Son of the Almighty God, to humble himself, and to become obedient to his heavenly Father, even to death, nay, to the death of the cross, to bring us miserable sinful men to rights again, and to deliver us clearly from all debts and punishments, and so to procure us the only and true indulgences.
After we had seen mount _Calvaria_, the Sepulchre of Christ our Lord, and other places, we went into the vestiary again to eat our supper.
After supper they led us up into the gallery, which is in the round building over-against the holy Sepulchre, to stay there all night; but some of the eastern Christians sung below in the church, others did grumble together, and play’d with their sweet-sounding cymbals, (which were made of pure metal about the bigness of a large wallnut-shell) so pleasant tunes or musick, that I rather look’d on them, and minded their musick than slept.
The next morning my comrades, after they had been at confession, and received the Sacrament upon mount _Calvaria_, came to me into the church again, with an intention to go round once more. So we saw the holy places once more, and at last also the chapel, which we left the day before at the foot of the hill on our left hand belonging to the _Grecians_; they let us in very willingly, because of our chaplain, who was also a _Grecian_, and shew’d us in it, at the farthest part where it was pretty dark, a large and deep crack of the rock; afterwards also on each side some fine and high tombs of some Kings, _viz._ that of _Gottefrid de Boulion_, and others, which were for some time possessed of the Land of Promise; these stand on delicate columns, cut out of curious grey marble, whereon are some epitaphs, which I thought to set down here underneath, together with a short relation when they did take the Land of Promise, and the famous city of _Jerusalem_, how long they were possessed of it, and how many Kings did succeed one another in it.
_Plants observed by Monsieur ~Belon~, to grow about some of the holy Places._
_Near ~Jerusalem~ on the ~Mounts~, ~Hills~, and ~Valleys~._
_Adrachne seu Arbutus folio non serrato_, _Picea_, _Aria_, _Ilex cocci-glandifera_, _Terebinthus_, _Lentiscus_, several sorts of _Cistus_, _Capparis Spinosa_, _Paliurus_ or _Christ_’s Thorn, Fig-trees, Olives, Almonds, a sort of wild Peach, _Jujubes_ or _Zizyphus_, _Esculus_ or Dwarf-oak, _Alaternus_, white Mulberry for the Silk-worms, the inhabitants trading a little in Silk and _Kermes_, which they gather from a Holm-oak: _Sesamum_, _Gossipium seu Xylon_, _Thymbra_, _Marum_, _Origanum Heracleoticum_, _Tragoriganum_, _Salvia_, _Stachys_, _Ruta Sylv._, _Trifolium Asphaltites_; a rare sort of _Hyosciamus_ on the walls of _Jerusalem_; _Azadarach Arbor in Palestinâ secundum D. ~Monconny~_.
_Between Mount ~Sinai~, Mount ~Oreb~ and ~Suez~._
_Oenoplia_ a sort of _Zizyphus_; _Arbor Lanigera_ or Cotton-tree; _Glans seu Nux Unguentaria_, call’d _Balanus Mirepsica_, _Alcanna_ a _Species_ of _Ligustrum_, of great use and sale for dying and colouring; _Senna_, Rose of _Jericho_, or _Hiericho_ a sort of _Thlaspi_, _Colocynthis_, _Ambrosia_, or Oak of _Cappadocia_.
Some Plants mention’d by _Breynius_, and taken out of _Rauwolff_’s _Hort. Sic._ or else found in those Countries where _Rauwolff_ travell’d.
_Acaciæ similis Mesopotamica minutissimis foliis, siliquâ integrâ contortâ, crassâ, & obtusâ; sive siliqua Nabathæa nobis._
_Azadirachta foliis ramosis majoribus ~Syriaca~ sive vulgaris flore cæruleo maj. ~Perlato~ falso Sycomorus Italorum. ~Bellon.~ ~Astergir.~ ~Rhasis~, & incolis ~Zenselacht~ ~Rauwolff.~_
_Horminum Syriacum, tomentosum, foliis Coronopi, sive profundè laciniatis ~Breyn.~ Horminum rarum foliis laciniatis ~Rauwolff.~ in Herbar. vivo._
_Lapathum Rotundifolium montis Libani, semine maximo ~Breyn.~ Ribes Arabum ~Rauwolff.~_
_Lycium Buxi foliis angustioribus Syriacum ~Breyn.~ Lycium Dioscoridis ~Rauwolff.~ in Herbar. Hadhad Arabibus, & Zaroa incolis montis Libani, ejusdem. In Syriâ & Palestinâ observavit ~Rauwolffius~._
_Lycium Buxi foliis rotundioribus Syriacum vel Persicum ~Breyn.~ Hoc Lycium apud ~Rauwolffium~ cum priore confunditur._
_Marrubium villosum Syriacum, sive montis Libani ~Breyn.~_
_Melanthium Syriacum minus frutescens latifolium, Rutæ flore, fructu tricapsulari, ~Breyn.~ Ruta vocata Harmala ~J. B.~_
_Melilotus minima Syriaca. Nephel sive Naphal, Ibenbaithar & Malasesæ._
_Plantago angustifolia minor lanugonisa Syriaca & Cretica, pediculis & capitulis maturitate ad terram inflexis ~Breyn.~ Leontopodium ~Alpin. Exot.~ Leontopodium Creticum ~C. B.~_
_Plantago angustifolia peniculis Lagopi ~C. B.~ Plantago quinquenervia cum globulis albis pilosis ~J. B.~ Catananche Dioscoridis ~Rauwolff.~ in Herbario vivo._
_Satureia frutescens Arabica folio fimbriato hirsuto ~Breyn.~ Sathar Arabum ~Rauwolff.~_
_Tithymalus (vel Tithymalo affinis) aphyllos dictus major latifolius, flore sanguineo aviculæ capitulum repræsentante ~Breyn.~ An Planta lactaria Xabra & Cammaronum Rhasis ~Rauwolff.~_
_Jacea maxima Hierosolymitana ~Alpin. Exot.~_
_Marum Syriacum foliis incisis._
CHAP. IX.
_Here follow some Epitaphs of the Christian Kings of ~Jerusalem~, together with a short Relation of their reigns and mighty deeds._