Chapter 3

It will be found easier to apply the finish of stain and filler before the parts are assembled. A suitable finish is obtained as follows: After the parts are thoroughly sanded, put on a coat of Filipino water stain, wiping it off with an old cloth before it has had time to soak into the wood very much. Allow this to dry. Then sand lightly, using No. 00 paper, after which fill the pores of the wood with a black paste filler--directions will be found on the can. Follow this, when hardened, with several coats of floor wax.

A PEDESTAL

The pedestal shown in the accompanying illustration is another piece of furniture that can be made in the mission style. It is very simple in design and construction, and can be made by anyone who has a few simple tools and a slight knowledge of their use. It is best to make it of quarter-sawed oak as this is the most easily procured wood and also looks the best when finished. If you order the material from the mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded, much hard labor will be saved. Following is a list of the material needed:

1 top, 3/4 by 12 by 12 in., S-1-S. 1 bottom, 3/4 by 12 by 12 in., S-1-S 8 pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 11 in. 2 sides, 3/4 by 5 by 26 in., S-1-S. 2 sides, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 26 in. 1 piece, 3/4 by 6 by 6 in. 4 blocks, 1 in. square.

Having the boards for the post cut to the proper length and square, nail them together as shown in the detail drawing. Use finishing nails, then set the heads and fill the holes with putty. Next, nail the 3/4 by 6-in. piece on one end of the post leaving the edges projecting even on all sides. Pick out the best board for the top. On the under side and 1/2. in. in from the edges, nail four of the 3/4 by 2 by 11-in. pieces which have been previously mitered as shown in the plan view. Now fasten this top to the post by nailing through the projecting edge of the top piece into the top board. Be careful to get this top on square with the post and exactly in center.

The bottom board is made in the same manner as the top board and is nailed to the lower end of the post as shown. Four 1-in. square blocks should be fastened to the bottom for the pedestal to rest on.

When complete, sandpaper smooth and apply any one of the many mission stains that are supplied by the trade for this purpose.

After staining the wood, the surface can be given a polished or dull finish, as desired. Mission furniture requires a dull finish, and this may be obtained by applying a coat of wax, well rubbed on the wood.

MAGAZINE RACK

The accompanying cut shows a magazine rack that will find favor with many amateur wood-workers on account of its simplicity in design and its rich, massive appearance when properly finished. It is so constructed that each piece may be polished, stained and finished before it is finally put together. Quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use. Plain-sawed oak looks well, but it is more liable to warp than quarter-sawed and this is quite an element in pieces as wide as the ones here used. Following is a list of the material needed:

4 posts, 2 by 2 by 40 in., S-4-S. 5 shelves, 1 by 14 by 24 in., S-2-S. 20 F.H. screws, 2 in. long.

Considerable labor can be saved if the material be ordered from the mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded. The corner posts should be made first. The most convenient and accurate method of laying out the mortises is to square one end of each post and lay them on the bench flat, with the squared ends even with each other; then clamp them securely and lay out the mortises on one side across all four pieces at once; then loosen the clamp and project the marks to the other side with a try-square. Now saw along these marks, making each cut just deep enough to bring the mortises diagonally across the piece from one corner to the opposite corner as shown in the detail sketch. Be careful not to get the mortises wider than the shelves are thick. Bevel the tops of the posts as shown.

See that the ends of the shelves are square and smooth, then set a scratch gauge so that the scriber is just 2 in. from the face of the block and mark this distance off each way from the corner of the shelves. Saw these corners diagonally across as shown, being careful not to saw off too much.

The parts can now be assembled. Place all the parts in position, then pass a rope around each end and twist it up tightly with a small stick. If this is properly done, you can now pick up the rack and handle it in any way you wish. The screws can now be put in the corners. You can use flat-head screws and plug the holes, or you can use round-head blue screws and let the heads project. After the screws are all in, dress off all unevenness where the shelves are mortised into the posts, then mark each shelf and post so that you can put it together again after the parts are finished. Take the rack apart and transfer the marks to some part of the mortises and shelves that will not be covered with the finish you intend to put on. Apply the finish you wish to use and when the parts are thoroughly dry they can be reassembled and your rack will be complete.

A HALL TREE

When making the hall tree as shown in the accompanying illustration use quarter-sawed oak if possible, as this wood is the most suitable for finishing in the different mission stains. This is a very useful and attractive piece of mission furniture and is also very easy to construct. The stock can be purchased ready cut to length, mill-planed and sandpapered on four sides as given in the following list:

1 post, 2 by 2 by 59 in. 4 posts, 2 by 2 by 10 in. 8 braces, 7/8 by 2 by 7-1/2 in. 4 arms, 7/8 by 2 by 5-3/4 in.

First square up all the posts and bevel them at the tops as shown. Then cut the mortises making them 1/2 in. wide and 7/8 in. deep. Cut the tenons on the braces to fit these mortises. Be careful to get the distance between the shoulders of the braces all of the same length. A good way to do this is to place them all side by side on a flat surface with the ends square and lay them all out at once. The top arms can be made in the same manner. The tenons should fit good and tight in all the posts.

The parts can now be glued and clamped together. When they are dry, scrape all the surplus glue from about the joints and go over the whole with fine sandpaper, removing all rough spots. Apply the finish you like best or the one that will match your other furniture. Purchase a few hooks at a hardware store and fasten in the upper arms as shown, and the hall tree is complete.

A TABLE FOR THE DEN

The table shown in the accompanying sketch is especially appropriate for the den; it might be used in any other part of the house as well. It may be built of plain-sawed red oak, or of quarter-sawed white oak. The wood should be thoroughly seasoned and devoid of imperfections.

Order the material as follows:

1 top piece, 3/4 in. thick by 36 in. square, S-2-S. 4 legs, 2-1/2 in. square by 30 in. long, S-4-S. 2 upper horizontals, 1-1/8 by 2 by 36 in., S-4-S. 2 lower horizontals, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 35 in., S-4-S. 4 keys, 1/2 by 1 by 5 in., S-2-S.

Lay out and cut the circular top first. Next cut the four legs to length. To get the slopes for the ends of the legs and the shoulders of the tenons, lay out a full-sized drawing in pencil and lay the bevel along these lines, adjusting the parts to the lines.

The top horizontals have grooves cut on either side to allow the posts to "set in." This is to give the frame more rigidity. The lower horizontals or stretchers are to be tenoned through the posts and keyed. That the keys may be alike in size, a good plan is to make them first, then make the mortises in the stretchers to correspond. Work the keys to the proper thickness, unless they were ordered so, then to length and joint one edge straight and square. Next lay off across the key the lines A and B of the drawing so that A shall measure 1/2 in. and B 3/8 in. Draw a sloping line through these points and work this edge of the key to size and shape. Round the top of the key as shown. Then mortise, in the tenon, for the key can then be laid out to 1/2 in. for the top opening and 3/8 in. for the bottom.

The most satisfactory finish for mission designs, and the easiest to apply, is wax. It is an old finish that was superseded by varnish. Our ancestors used to make wax polish by "cutting" beeswax with turpentine. Cut up the beeswax and add to it about one-third its volume of turpentine. Heat to the boiling point in a double boiler. Or, melt a quantity of beeswax and to this add an equal volume of turpentine. Care must be taken that the turpentine shall not catch fire.

Rapid drying and hardening waxes can be purchased now-a-days. They require a smooth surface and a thin application for a successful result. Too much wax upon a rough surface will produce very ugly, white, chalk-like spottings as the wax dries. These are especially noticeable upon dark finishes. Waxes colored black overcome this, but are not necessary if the ordinary wax is properly applied. 1--Stain the wood, if a very dark finish is desired. 2--If the wood is coarse grained, put on one or two coats of paste filler and rub it off carefully, that a smooth surface may be prepared. Allow the stain 12 hours in which to dry, also each coat of filler. 3--With a soft cloth apply as thin a coating of wax as can be and still cover the wood. Wax is in paste form. 4--Allow this to stand five or ten minutes, then rub briskly with a soft dry cloth to polish. 5--Let stand 24 hours, then apply another coat.

A BURLAP-COVERED WINDOW SEAT

A portable window seat of neat appearance, which is designed to take the place of a cedar chest, is shown in the accompanying sketch. If care is taken to make the joints fit well, the box will be practically airtight and mothproof, providing a place in which to store extra bedding or furs. The following list of materials will be needed:

36 ft. 1-in. thick cedar boards for the box. 1 piece pine, 2 by 2 in. by 12 ft. long. 32 ft. of 1/4 by 2-in. oak strips. 54 ft. of 1/4 by 1-in. oak strips. 16 doz. R.H. 3/4-in, long brass screws. 1 piece green burlap, 24 by 48 in. 2 pieces green burlap, 20 by 44 in. 2 pieces green burlap, 20 by 20 in. 20 pieces red burlap, 3-1/4 in. square.

The box as shown in Fig. 1 is made first. Nail the sides and the bottom to the ends, being careful to get the box perfectly square. The corners can be dovetailed together if desired. The extra time it takes in making the dovetailed joints will greatly add to the durability of the box. The box can be made much stronger by nailing the sides and ends to posts 2 in. square placed on the inside. Cleats should also be placed on the inside, at the bottom, as shown. Fasten four blocks, 2 in. square, to the bottom for the box to rest upon. These can be attached with long screws run through from the bottom of the box.

The green burlap is glued to the outside of the box. Be careful not to apply too much glue on the burlap, or it will soak through. This should be tried out on a scrap piece, and when the proper application of glue is ascertained, applied to one side of the burlap and stuck on the box. Place the cloth on so the weave will run in the same direction on all sides. The oak slats are cut and fit over the burlap as shown in Fig. 2. Care should be taken to make the mitered joints a tight fit. After the miters are all cut and the location of the squares, found, they are marked so that pieces of red burlap may be placed over the green before the slats are fastened permanently. The slats are put in place over the burlap and fastened with small brass screws.

Cover the top or lid with green burlap, allowing the edges to lap over the ends and sides and fasten under the side strips. This top can be stuffed with excelsior, if desired, and tacks with large heads driven in to hold it in place. The slats can be stained any color to suit the maker. They should be removed from the box when being stained so as not to spot or stain the burlap.

QUARTER-SAWED OAK SETTEE

The mission settee shown in the accompanying picture should be made of quarter-sawed white oak. The material needed will be as follows:

4 posts, 3-1/4 by 3-1/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S. 4 end rails, 1-1/2 by 5 by 32 in., S-4-S. 12 end slats, 5/8 by 3-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S. 1 front rail, 1-1/2 by 7 by 87 in., S-4-S. 1 lower back rail, 1-1/2 by 9 by 87 in., S-4-S. 1 upper back rail, 1-1/2 by 12 by 87 in., S-4-S. 2 cleats for seat frame, 1-1/2 by 2 by 82 in., S-4-S. 2 cleats for seat frame, 1-1/2 by 2 by 32 in., S-4-S.

On account of the unusual width of the pieces that go into the makeup of this settee, it will be necessary to have the wood thoroughly seasoned before putting them together, otherwise shrinkage will cause them to crack open.

Begin work by making the ends of the settee first. Cut the posts to length, chamfering both top and bottoms somewhat so that they shall not splinter or cause injury to the hands. Next lay out and cut the mortises as shown on the drawing. With the posts finished, lay out the end rails, cutting the tenons and the mortises into which the ends of the slats are to be fitted.

It should be noted that the drawing calls for the "setting in" of the whole of the ends of the slats, there being no shoulders. This is much easier and gives just as satisfactory a result, provided the sides of the mortises are carefully cut.

Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all these parts and then put the ends together. In addition to the glue it will be well to through pin each of the tenons and mortises. These pins may be put in flush and permanent on the ends of the settee. On the side rails, however, the pins are to be allowed to project so that they can be removed, and no glue is used in the joint.

While the glue of the ends is hardening, prepare the rails of front and back. Scrape and sandpaper these and when the clamps can be removed from the ends put the whole frame together. The ends of all projecting tenons are chamfered.

The illustration shows a loose leather cushion. There is quite a variety of materials out of which such a cushion can be made. The best, of course, is leather. In the highest class of furniture where loose cushions are used, the seat base is formed by solidly mortising a frame together on which is woven a heavy cane seating. This in turn is fastened to the inside of the piece of furniture, and the cushions when placed upon it make a very comfortable seat. The stock bill for this settee calls for such a frame. Wood slats may be substituted if desired.

This piece of furniture will look well if finished in weathered oak. See that all glue is removed from the surface, and that the wood is clean and smooth, and apply a coat of weathered oak oil stain. Sandpaper this lightly with No. 00 paper when the stain has thoroughly dried, and put on a coat of lackluster or an equivalent.

A SCREEN

In selecting or making up mission furniture for the home, a screen is necessary sometimes to add to the appearance of a room. The screen shown in the accompanying illustration consists of a few parts which are easily put together. The stock can be bought of any planing mill planed, sanded and cut to the proper lengths. The cloth, which should be of dark color, can be purchased at a dry goods store. The following list of material will be needed.

6 posts, 1 in. square by 65 in. 6 rails, 3/4 in. square by 18 in. 6 rails, 1/2 in. square by 18 in. 3 panels, 1/4 by 3 by 18 in. 6 yd. of cloth. 4 double-acting hinges. 2 doz. 2-1/2-in. slender screws.

Cut or plow a groove 1/4 in. wide and 1/4 in. deep in the center of one surface on each of the 3/4-in. rails. Cut out the ends with a compass saw. The five holes are bored with a 1-in. bit. The edges of these panels are inserted in the grooves of the 3/4-in. rails, using plenty of good glue.

When the glue has dried for at least 24 hours the screen frame can be put together. Holes for the screws should be bored through the posts where the 3/4-in. rails are joined and a screw turned into the end grain of each rail.

Scrape off all the surplus glue and sandpaper all the parts well. When this is done the finish can be applied. Any one of the mission stains can be used and finished with wax and polished.

The cloth is cut to length, a hem sewed on each end and one 1/2-in. rail put through each hem. Place the top rail in position and screw it fast. Stretch the cloth tight and fasten the lower 1/2-in. rail with screws at the bottom. Each section of the screen is finished in the same way.

The hinges are attached about 4 in. from each end of the posts in the same manner as hanging a door.

The sections can be made up in various ways to suit the builder. Instead of using cloth, heavy paste-board, or board made up to take the place of plaster on walls of dwellings, may be substituted, thus forming a ground that will take paint and bronze decorations. A piece of this material can be easily cut to fit the opening in each section.

A MISSION BOOKRACK

The accompanying sketch shows a bookrack designed strictly along mission lines. Enough stock may be found among the scrap, as no piece is over 1 in, in width or thickness. If stock is not on hand, secure the following, cut to exact lengths:

2 stretchers, 1 by 1 by 20 in., S-4-S. 4 posts, 1 by 1 by 7-1/2 in., S-4-S. 4 rails, 1 by 1 by 7 in., S-4-S. 8 slats, 1/2 by 1/2 by 3-1/2 in., S-4-S.

Arrange the pieces as they are to be in the finished rack and number both parts of each joint. There will be twelve lap joints, and great care must be taken to mark them accurately and to cut to exactly half the depth of each piece.

First fit the posts and rails of the ends. To mark the width of each notch, lay the piece which is to fit into the notch upon it and thus get the exact size. Knife lines must be used for the width and light gauge lines for the depth of each notch.

Next lay out and cut joints between the stretchers and ends.

In each end there are four slats which should be mortised into the rails 1/4 in. Glue the pieces in place and clamp them with handscrews.

A rubber-headed tack in the bottom of each post will prevent the marring of the surface upon which the rack is to rest.

Mission, weathered or fumed-oak stain will look well. A waxed finish should be used. Before applying the wax, it is well to use a very thin coat of shellac as a foundation. Let this coat stand for a few hours and allow an interval of at least an hour between applying the coats of wax.

Should the rack wind a little, it may be remedied by cutting off part of two diagonally opposite racks.

A ROUND EXTENSION DINING TABLE

This extension table should be made of some hard wood, preferably white oak. It will be a difficult matter to secure legs of the sizes indicated in solid pieces of clear stock. It will be possible, however, to secure them veneered upon white-pine cores. If the veneering is properly done these will serve the purpose very well, the lighter weight, due to the white-pine core, being an advantage. The circular facing is best made by first sawing a segment of the circle of the size wanted and then veneering the outer surface of this. Order the following stock:

4 legs, 3 by 3 by 30-1/2 in., S-4-S. 1 leg, 5 by 5 by 30-1/2 in., S-4-S. 4 rails, 1-1/8 by 5 by 23 in., S-2-S. 4 facing segments, 1-1/8 by 3-1/4 in. on a 24-in. radius. 1 top, 1-1/8 in. thick on a 27-in. radius, S-2-S; 3 extra boards, 1-1/8 by 12 by 55 in., S-2-S. 4 slides, 1-1/8 by 2-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple. 2 slides, 1-1/4 by 2-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple. 4 frame pieces, 7/8 by 3 by 9 in., S-4-S, maple. 2 frame pieces, 7/8 by 6 by 28 in., S-4-S, maple. 2 frame pieces, 7/8 by 4 by 23-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple.

There are various ways of arranging the slides to work one with the other. Several patented devices are on the market that permit a ready adjustment with but little effort and are used extensively by commercial manufacturers. The amateur will do well to secure a set before he undertakes to work these slides to shape.

Prepare the legs by cutting them to length. Lay out and work the mortises. The ends of the facings are to be tenoned and housed into the posts. Prepare the rails by cutting the tenons and shaping the lower edges as shown in the drawing. Prepare the top. After this, assemble this much of the frame, using plenty of clamps and good hot glue.

Next get the under frame and the slides ready and attach them as shown. There will be needed plenty of glue blocks for reinforcing the facing where it is fastened to the top, etc.

For a finish, apply a filler colored, as desired. Upon this, after it has hardened and been sanded with No. 00 paper, apply a coat of shellac. Upon the shellac apply successively several coats of some good rubbing varnish. Rub the first coats with haircloth and the final coat with pulverized pumice and crude or linseed oil.

If an effect is wanted that will contrast, stain the wood first with a water stain. Sand this lightly when dry, then apply a second coat of stain diluted one-half with water. Again sand and then apply a thin coat of shellac. Sand this lightly, and apply the filler and the varnish as described above.

AN ARM DINING CHAIR

This armchair will look well if made of plain-sawed oak. Quarter-sawed oak might be used, or black walnut if desired. The stock bill specifies the various parts mill-planed to size as far as possible. If some amateur craftsman should prefer to do his own surfacing, thereby saving somewhat on the expense, he should add 1/4 in. to the width of each piece, providing the stock is mill-planed to thickness. It is hardly profitable to get stock entirely in the rough if the work is to be done by hand. The following is the stock bill:

2 front posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 25 in., S-4-S. 1 piece for back posts, 1-3/4 by 6 by 43 in., S-2-S. 2 arm pieces, 7/8 by 4 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S. 2 seat rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S. 2 seat rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S. 4 lower side rails, 5/8 by 1-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S. 2 front and back lower rails, 5/8 by 2-3/4 by 24 in., S-4-S. 1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/4 by 24 in., S-4-S. 1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S. 2 slats, 3/8 by 2 by 16-1/2 in., S-4-S. 1 slat, 3/8 by 4-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., S-4-S. 2 braces, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 5-1/2 in., S-2-S.

The design shown is for a chair in which the width of front and back is the same. Also the back leg parallels the front below the seat. In commercial practice the backs are usually made somewhat narrower than the fronts and the back leg is slanted somewhat below the seat as well as above. As this construction necessitates sloping shoulders on all tenons it complicates the problem when the work is not done by machinery. The ambitious amateur may readily get the proportion of slant by measuring common chairs. For mission effects the chair looks well with front and back the same width.