Chapter 1

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MISSION FURNITURE HOW TO MAKE IT

PART THREE

POPULAR MECHANICS HANDBOOKS

CHICAGO POPULAR MECHANICS COMPANY

Copyrighted, 1912

BY H. H. WINDSOR

This book is one of the series of handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Co. Like the magazine, these books are "written so you can understand it," and are intended to furnish information on mechanical subjects at a price within the reach of all.

The texts and illustrations have been prepared expressly for this Handbook Series, by experts; are up-to-date, and have been revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

The dimensions given in the stock list contained in the description of each piece of furniture illustrated in this book call for material mill-planed, sanded and cut to length. If the workman desires to have a complete home-made article, allowance must be made in the dimensions for planing and squaring the pieces. S-4-S and S-2-S are abbreviations for surface four sides and surface two sides.

CONTENTS

Piano Bench, 5 Library Table, 7 Princess Dresser, 10 Sewing Box, 14 Fern Stand, 17 Wardrobe, 20 Finish, 24 Oak Table, 25 Book Trough, 28 Oak Serving Table, 30 Umbrella Stand, 33 Chafing-Dish Buffet, 35 Writing Desk, 38 Music Rack and Bookstand, 41 Dictionary and Magazine Stand, 43 Leather-Back Armchair, 47 Wall Shelf, 50 Pedestal, 53 Magazine Rack, 55 Hall Tree, 58 Table for the Den, 60 Table, Sewing, 64 Burlap-Covered Window Seat, 65 Quarter-Sawed Oak Settee, 67 Screen, 71, 94 Mission Bookrack, 74 Round Extension Dining Table, 75 Arm Dining Chair, 79 Hall Bench, 82 Sewing Table, 84 Side Chair, 88 Another Piano Bench, 91 Another Screen, 95 Folding Card Table, 97 Magazine Stand, 102 Tabouret, 105 Porch Swing, 109 Foot Warmer, 111 Plate Rack for Dining Room, 113 Mission Sideboard, 116

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Piano Bench Detail of the Piano Bench Detail of the Library Table The Finished Library Table Dresser Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak Detail of the Princess Dresser Sewing Box Made of Walnut and Ash Detail of the Sewing Box Detail of the Fern Stand Finished Stand in Quartered Oak The Wardrobe Complete Detail of Wardrobe Detail of Construction Finished Table Detail of Book Trough Book Trough Complete Serving Table Complete Detail of Serving Table Umbrella Stand Detail of Umbrella Stand Buffet in Quartered Oak Method of Fastening with Screws Detail of the Chafing-Dish Buffet Writing Desk Made of Plain-Sawed Oak Detail of the Writing Desk Complete Stand Detail of the Stand Detail of the Dictionary and Magazine Stand Stand Made in Oak Arm Chair Complete Detail of the Arm Chair Complete Wall Shelf Wall Shelf Detail Completed Pedestal Detail of the Pedestal Detail of the Magazine Rack Magazine Rack Complete Detail and Finished View of Hall Tree Table Completed Detail of a Den Table Fig. 1--The Rough Cedar Box Without the Covering Fig. 2--Design of the Covering Strip Put on Over the Burlap Mission Settee Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak Detail of the Oak Settee Detail of One Section Screen of Three Sections Detail of the Bookrack The Complete Bookrack Detail of the Table Table for the Dining-Room Set Armchair of the Dining-Room Set Detail of the Armchair Detail of the Hall Bench Bench Made of Plain Oak Sewing Table in Plain Oak Detail of the Sewing Table Construction of the Drawer Side Chair of Dining-Room Set Detail of the Side Chair Detail of the Piano Bench Piano Bench in Quarter-Sawed Oak Plain-Oak Frame with Burlap Panels Detail of the Frame Detail of the Card Table Card Table Ready for Use The Legs Fold on the Under Side of Top Stand Complete Detail of Stand Detail of Tabouret Finished Tabouret Complete Porch Swing Detail of the Porch Swing Detail of the Foot Warmer Oak Stool with Brass Cover Detail of Plate Rack Dining-Room Plate Rack Sideboard for the Dining-Room Set Detail of the Sideboard

A PIANO BENCH

The piano bench shown in the accompanying picture was made of black walnut and was finished natural. The finish was applied in the following manner: First, all the parts were well scraped and sandpapered, then the surface was covered with a coating of boiled linseed oil. After this had stood several hours, or until it had had time to penetrate the wood, the surplus liquid was wiped off with a flannel cloth. After the oil had stood for 48 hours, a thin coat of shellac was applied and allowed to harden overnight. The next morning this shellac was sandpapered lightly with No. 00 paper and a coat of floor wax was applied according to the directions which are found upon every can. Two more coats of wax were applied after intervals of half an hour and the finish was completed. The effect is very pleasing. The oil brings out the rich color of the wood and the shellac and wax serve to preserve the color. The following stock is needed:

1 top, 1 by 16-1/2 by 40-1/2 in., S-2-S. 4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S. 2 rails, 7/8 by 4-1/4 by 36 in., S-2-S. 2 rails, 7/8 by 4-1/4 by 13 in., S-2-S. 2 lower rails, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 13 in., S-2-S. 1 stretcher, 7/8 by 3-3/4 by 36 in., S-2-S. 6 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/4 by 11 in., S-2-S.

With the exception of the legs all the stock is specified mill-planed to thickness upon two surfaces. The legs are specified planed on four sides. Square the legs to length and the rails, stretcher, slats, etc., to width and length.

Lay out and work the tenons of the rails and stretcher. The slats are best made without tenons, the whole end of each slat being "housed" into the rails. The reason for this is obvious--it is a difficult matter to fit two or more pieces between fixed parts when their ends are tenoned. When the ends are housed any slight variation in the lengths adjusts itself. It is necessary, however, to chisel the sides of the mortises carefully, but this is a simple matter compared with getting the shoulders of the tenons, etc., all just alike.

Assemble the parts, using good hot glue. Put the ends of the bench together first. When the glue has hardened on these, place the stretcher and side rails. Fasten the top to the frame from the under side, either by glued blocks and screws or by angle irons.

A LIBRARY TABLE

A library table of neat appearance and correct proportions is shown in the accompanying sketch and detail drawing. This table looks best when finished in quarter-sawed oak, although any of the other furniture woods can be used if desired. If the material is ordered from the mill cut to length, squared and sanded, much of the hard labor can be avoided. Order the following pieces:

4 legs, 2 by 2 by 30-1/4 in., S-4-S. 1 top, 1-1/8 by 30 by 42 in., S-4-S. 2 end pieces, 3/4 by 17-1/8 by 29 in., S-2-S. 2 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 37 in., S-4-S. 2 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 25-1/2 in., S-4-S. 1 lower brace, 3/4 by 2 by 32 in., S-4-S. 4 shelves, 3/4 by 7 by 29 in., S-4-S. 8 slats, 1/4 by 1-1/8 by 17-1/8 in., S-4-S. 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 5-3/4 by 25 in., S-4-S. 4 drawer sides, 3/8 by 3-3/4 by 14 in., soft wood. 2 drawer ends, 3/8 by 3-3/8 by 24-1/4 in., soft wood. 2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 13-1/4 by 24-1/4 in., soft wood. 2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2 by 23-1/2 in., soft wood. 2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2 by 25 in., soft wood.

Start work on the legs by beveling the tops and squaring them up and laying out the mortises for the shelves as shown in section BB. Care should be taken to get the legs mortised in pairs and all cut the same height. This is best done by placing the four legs side by side with the ends square, and then laying out the mortises across all four at once with a try-square.

The table top is made of several boards which are doweled and glued together. Be careful to get the best side of each board up and have the joints a tight fit. The corners should be cut out for the posts as shown. The posts are to be fastened to the board by means of screws. The holes can be counterbored for the heads and then plugged. The top rails are also fastened to the top board by means of screws.

The end pieces can now be made. Two or more boards will have to be glued together for these. The top corners will have to be cut to fit about the top rails. Cleats can be used in fastening them to the top board. The shelves also have the corners cut to fit into the mortises in the posts. They are held to the end boards by means of screws.

If the parts all fit perfectly square and tight, they can be glued and screwed together, which will complete the table except for the slats and drawers. The slats can be fastened on with nails, then the heads covered with fancy nails which can be secured for this purpose. The drawer supports can now be put in. They are screwed to the end boards as shown. A bottom brace should be fastened under the lower shelves to help steady the table. The two drawers are made as shown in the detail sketch. No handles are needed as the lower edge of the front board can be used for pulling them out.

When the table is complete it should be carefully gone over with fine sandpaper and all rough spots removed. Scrape the glue from about the joints as finish will not take where there is any glue. Apply the stain preferred or the one that matches the other furniture. This can be any of the many stains supplied by the trade for this purpose.

A PRINCESS DRESSER

A design of a princess dresser that is well proportioned and of pleasing appearance is shown in the accompanying sketch and detail drawing. The cost is very moderate and if a mill is not too far away, a great amount of labor can be saved by ordering the material ready cut to length, squared and sanded. Quarter-sawed oak should be used and the material needed will be as follows:

4 posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 27 in., S-4-S. 1 top board, 3/4 by 17 by 37 in., S-2-S. 5 side rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S. 4 end rails, 3/4 by 2 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S. 2 end panels, 1/4 by 16-1/4 by 16-3/4 in., S-4-S. 1 drawer partition, 1 by 7-3/4 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S. 1 back board, 3/4 by 4-1/2 by 36 in., S-2-S. 2 mirror supports, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 30 in., S-4-S. 2 side pieces for mirror, 3/4 by 2 by 42 in., S-4-S. 2 end pieces for mirror, 3/4 by 2 by 21-1/2 in., S-4-S. 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 7 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S. 1 drawer front, 3/4 by 7 by 36 in., S-4-S. 1 20 by 38 bevel mirror.

The following pieces may be of any soft wood:

5 drawer slides, 3/4 by 2 by 17 in. 6 drawer sides, 1/2 by 7 by 17 in. 2 drawer bottoms, 1/2 by 17 by 17 in. 1 drawer bottom, 1/2 by 17 by 35-1/2 in. 4-1/2 sq. ft. of 3/8-in. pine for back.

First be sure the posts are perfectly square and of equal length. Either chamfer or round the upper ends as desired. The mortises can now be laid out and cut or they can be left until the rail tenons are all made and then marked and cut directly from each tenon. The posts as well as the end rails should have grooves cut in them to take the 1/4-in. end panels.

The top board should have the corners cut to fit about the posts. The corners of the back board should be rounded as shown in the drawing.

The end sections of the dresser can be glued together first, care being taken to get the joints square and tight. When these are dry the side rails and drawer slides can be fitted and glued in place. The top board is held in position by means of screws through cleats which are fastened to the inner sides of the rails.

The mirror frame is made by mortising the end pieces with the side pieces as shown. It is rabbeted on the back to hold a 20 by 38-in. mirror. After the mirror is securely fastened in the frame a thin wood covering should be tacked on the back to protect the glass. The frame swings between two upright posts which are securely fastened to the body of the dresser as shown.

The drawers are made and fitted in the usual manner. The drawing shows two drawers in the top compartment, but one exactly like the lower can be made and used instead by simply leaving out the 1 in. partition. Suitable handles for the drawers can be purchased at any hardware store.

The back is made of soft wood and is put on in the usual manner. Scrape all surplus glue from about the joints as the stain will not take where there is any glue. Finish smooth with fine sandpaper and apply the stain desired, which may be any of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose.

A SEWING BOX

A rather unique sewing box, and one that is quite as convenient as unique, is shown in the illustration. The material is walnut and ash. The posts are walnut and the slats and top rail ash. Both are finished in their natural colors. The following is the stock bill:

4 posts, 1-1/2 in. in diameter and 15 in. long, walnut. 1 bottom, 3/8 by 16-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S, walnut. 4 top rails, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 20 in., S-2-S, ash. 4 under rails, 5/8 by 3/4 by 20 in., S-2-S, walnut. 72 slats, 1/8 by 5/8 by 6-1/2 in., S-2-S, ash.

In ordering the stock it will be wise to combine the lengths of pieces having like widths and thicknesses.

If not possible to secure doweling of the diameter indicated for the verticals, it is an easy matter to take a square piece of stock, lay it off and work it into an eight-sided prism. After this, the arrises may again be planed until it has 16 and then 32 sides. The rest may be removed with sandpaper. Or it is possible that curtain pole stock will be available. Saw these posts to length and leave the ends square.

Square up the stock for the other parts. Work the bottom piece to a 16-in. square. The rails are not to be squared on the ends but are to be mitered each in turn. The bottom is fastened to the posts by metal brackets.

Chisel out recesses in the posts so that the bottom may be inserted. Insert the corners and use glue and nails to hold them in place. Place the lower of the two top rails, notching out the posts as is necessary to bring the inner edge of these rails in position. Fasten to the posts. Miter and place the top rails. The slats, it will be noted, are fastened to the bottom from the outer side and to the lower of the two top rails from the inner side. Brass-headed tacks such as upholsterers use are required.

In finishing, sandpaper all parts and then apply a coat of boiled linseed oil. Allow this to stand a half hour or so and then wipe the surface clean. After this has dried thoroughly apply a thin coating of shellac and allow it to harden. Sand the shellac when hard with No. 00 sandpaper and then apply several coats of wax, polishing in the usual manner.

Two pairs of castors will add to the ease with which the box may be moved about.

A FERN STAND

When making the fern stand shown in the accompanying sketch use quarter-sawed oak if possible, as this wood is the most suitable for finishing in the different mission stains. Considerable labor can be saved in its construction by ordering the stock from the mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded. Order the following pieces:

4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 30 in., S-4-S. 8 side rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S. 2 shelf supports, 3/4 by 1 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S. 1 top, 3/4 by 16 by 16 in., S-4-S. 1 shelf, 3/4 by 15 by 15 in., S-4-S. 16 slats, 3/8 by 3 by 5 in., S-4-S.

The legs are made first. Be sure they are square and of equal length. The mortises can be laid out and cut or they can be left until the tenons on the side rails are all made, then marked and cut from each tenon. The top rails and the slats are exactly alike for the four sides, as the table is square. In addition to the tenons on the rails, grooves should be cut in each for the ends of the slats to fit into as shown in the cross section in the detail drawing. Holes should be cut in the slats as shown.

The top board should have the corners cut out to fit around the posts. It is held in place by means of screws through cleats which are fastened to the inner sides of the top rails.

The bottom board or shelf rests upon two rails that are mortised into the posts as shown. The top and bottom boards should be of one piece if possible, otherwise two or more boards will have to be glued together.

Before gluing up the joints see that all the pieces fit together square and tight. The posts and rails should be glued and assembled, then the top and bottom boards put in place to hold the frame square when the clamps are put on.

Leave to dry for about 24 hours before removing the clamps. Fasten the top and bottom boards in place and then go over the stand with fine sandpaper and remove all surplus glue and rough spots.

A WARDROBE

The wardrobe or clothes closet shown in the accompanying sketch and detail drawing will be found a great convenience in a bedroom where closet space is limited or where there is no closet at all. It provides ample room for hanging suits, dresses and other wearing apparel, as well as space for boots and shoes. It can be made of any of the several furniture woods in common use, but quarter-sawed oak will be found to give the most pleasing effect. The stock should be ordered from the mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded. In this way much labor will be saved. The following pieces will be needed:

4 posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 64-1/2 in., S-4-S. 2 front rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S. 1 top and 1 bottom board, each 3/4 by 18-1/2 by 37 in., S-4-S. 1 top back rail, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S. 1 lower back rail, 3/4 by 4 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S. 6 end rails, 3/4 by 6 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S. 4 end uprights, 3/4 by 4 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S. 8 end panels, 3/8 by 7-1/2 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S. 5 shelves, 3/4 by 17-3/4 by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S. 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4-3/4 by 8-1/2 in., S-4-S. 1 door, 3/4 by 7-3/4 by 10 in., S-4-S. 1 shelf partition, 3/4 by 10 by 19 in., S-4-S. 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 7 by 17 in., S-4-S. 1 drawer front, 3/4 by 8 by 17 in., S-4-S. 1 partition (several pieces), 3/4 by 19-1/2 by 57-3/4 in., S-4-S. 4 door uprights, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 57 in., S-4-S. 2 top rails, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S. 2 middle rails, 3/4 by 6 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S. 2 lower rails, 3/4 by 4-1/2 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S. 4 center uprights, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 23 in., S-4-S. 8 panels, 3/8 by 6 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S. 4 pieces, 3/8 by 4-3/4 by 19 in., soft wood. 2 pieces, 3/8 by 8 by 19 in., soft wood. 2 pieces, 3/8 by 4-1/4 by 8 in., soft wood. 4 pieces, 1/2 by 7 by 19 in., soft wood. 3 pieces, 1/2 by 16-1/2 by 19 in., soft wood. 2 pieces, 1/2 by 6-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., soft wood. 2 pieces, 1/2 by 8 by 19 in., soft wood. 1 piece, 1/2 by 7-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., soft wood. 1 back (several pieces), 3/8 by 36 by 58 in., S-2-S.

First be sure the posts are perfectly square and of equal length. The upper ends can be chamfered or rounded if desired. The two front posts are alike, as are the back ones. The mortises should be laid out in each pair of posts and then cut with a sharp chisel, or they can be left until the tenons are all made, and then marked and cut from each tenon. Grooves should be cut on one side of all the posts to take the end panels.

The front and lower back rails are plain except for the tenons at each end, but the end rails and the center uprights should have grooves cut for the panels the same as the posts. The top back rail serves as a top back board and should have the corners rounded as shown in the detail drawing.

The frame can now be assembled. Glue should be used on all the joints as it makes them much stiffer. Be careful to get the frame together perfectly square, or it will be hard to fit the doors and the shelves.

The top and bottom boards should have the corners cut to clear the posts. The closet is divided into two compartments by a partition. This can be made of plain boards or panels similar to those in the ends, as desired. Place the shelves in position as shown. They are held in place by means of cleats and screws. The one shelf has a partition in its center with a door on one side and two small drawers on the other. Drawers should be fitted to three of the other compartments. They are made in the usual manner except that the front boards should be cut out at the top for a handhold as shown.

The doors are fitted by a tenon and mortise joint at the ends. They have a centerpiece and panels to match the ends of the closet. Suitable hinges and a catch should be supplied. These can be purchased at any hardware store.

The backing is put on in the usual manner. It should be finished on the front side.

When complete, the closet should be carefully gone over with fine sandpaper and all glue and rough spots removed. Apply stain of the desired color. This may be any of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose.

A FINISH

An appropriate finish is obtained as follows: First thoroughly scrape and sandpaper the various parts, then apply a coat of brown Flemish water stain. Allow this to dry well, then sand it lightly with No. 00 sandpaper to lay the grain. Again apply the Flemish stain, but this time have it weakened by the addition of an equal amount of water. When dry, sand again as on the first coat. Upon the second coat of stain apply a thin coat of shellac. This is to protect the high lights from the stain in the filler which is to follow. Sand lightly, then apply a paste filler of a sufficiently dark shade to make a dark field for the brown Flemish. Clean off the surplus and polish in the usual manner.

Upon the filler, after it has hardened overnight, apply a coat of orange shellac. Successively apply several coats of some good rubbing varnish. Polish the first coats with haircloth or curled hair, and the last with pulverized pumice stone, mixed with raw linseed or crude oil.

AN OAK TABLE

The accompanying illustration shows another style of a mission table. The stock for this table if ordered as follows and sanded will require only the work of making the joints and putting them together:

4 posts, 2 in, square 30-5/8 in., S-4-S. 4 upper rails, 7/8 by 6-1/2 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S. 2 lower rails, 7/8 by 3 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S. 2 top pieces, 7/8 by 12-1/2 by 24-1/2 in., S-2-S. 6 slats, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 15-1/2 in., S-2-S. 1 stretcher, 7/8 by 8-1/2 by 21-1/2 in., S-2-S.

This table may be made with mortise and tenon joints or with dowels as desired. If dowels are used, the upper and lower rails should be made 2 in. shorter than shown in the drawing.

Be sure to get the pieces for the posts with their surfaces square to each other and their ends sawed square off. This will simplify the assembling a great deal. Make the posts exactly the same length, 30-1/2 in., and chamfer a 3/8-in, bevel on their tops.

Square up the four upper rails, 6 by 22 in., marking the working face and edge to work from when laying out the tenons later. Square up the two lower rails, 2-1/2 by 22 in. These must be exactly the same length as the upper rails. The two ends of the table having the slats should be glued up first. Lay out the tenons on the upper and lower rails for these two ends and be sure to work from the marked face and edges, using a knife line. Cut the tenons, and, by placing them against the posts in the exact position they are to occupy, mark the places for the mortises. These joints should be numbered so that each mortise may be cut to fit its own tenon.