Chapter 2

The mission library table, the drawings for which are here given, has been found well proportioned and of pleasing appearance. It can be made of any of the several furniture woods in common use, such as selected, quarter-sawed white oak which will be found exceptionally pleasing in the effect produced.

If a planing mill is at hand the stock can be ordered in such a way as to avoid the hard work of planing and sandpapering. Of course if mill-planed stock cannot be had, the following dimensions must be enlarged slightly to allow for "squaring up the rough."

For the top, order 1 piece 1-1/8 in. thick, 34 in. wide and 46 in. long. Have it S-4-S (surface on four sides) and "squared" to length. Also specify that it be sandpapered on the top surface, the edges and ends.

For the shelf, order 1 piece 7/8 in. thick, 22 in. wide and 42 in. long, with the four sides surfaced, squared and sandpapered the same as for the top.

For the side rails, order 2 pieces 7/8 in. thick, 6 in. wide and 37 in. long, S-4-S and sanded on one side. For the end rails, 2 pieces 7/8 in. thick, 6 in. wide and 25 in. long. Other specifications as for the side rails.

For the stretchers, into which the shelf tenons enter, 2 pieces 1-1/8 in. thick, 3-3/4 in. wide and 25 in. long, surfaced and sanded on four sides. For the slats, 10 pieces 5/8 in. thick, 1-1/2 in. wide and 17 in. long, surfaced and sanded on four sides. For the keys, 4 pieces 3/4 in. thick, 1-1/4 in. wide and 2-7/8 in. long, S-4-S. This width is a little wide; it will allow the key to be shaped as desired.

The drawings obviate any necessity for going into detail in the description. Fig. 1 gives an assembly drawing showing the relation of the parts. Fig. 2 gives the detail of an end. The tenons for the side rails are laid off and the mortises placed in the post as are those on the end. Care must be taken, however, not to cut any mortises on the post below, as was done in cutting the stretcher mortises on the ends of the table. A good plan is to set the posts upright in the positions they are to occupy relative to one another and mark with pencil the approximate positions of the mortises. The legs can then be laid flat and the mortises accurately marked out with a fair degree of assurance that they will not be cut where they are not wanted and that the legs shall "pair" properly when effort is made to assemble the parts of the table.

The table ends should be glued up first and the glue allowed to harden, after which the tenons of the shelf may be inserted and the side rails placed.

There is a reason for the shape, size and location of each tenon or mortise. For illustration, the shape of the tenon on the top rails permits the surface of the rail to extend almost flush with the surface of the post at the same time permitting the mortise in the post to be kept away from that surface. Again, the shape of the ends of the slats is such that, though they may vary slightly in length, the fitting of the joints will not be affected. Care must be taken in cutting the mortises to keep their sides clean and sharp and to size.

In making the mortises for the keyed tenons, the length of mortise must be slightly in excess of the width of the tenon--about 1/8 in. of play to each side of each tenon. With a shelf of the width specified for this table, if such allowance is not made so that the tenons may move sideways, the shrinkage would split the shelf.

In cutting across the ends of the shelf, between the tenons, leave a hole in the waste so that the turning saw or compass saw can be inserted. Saw within one-sixteenth of the line, after which this margin may be removed with chisel and mallet.

In Fig. 3 is shown two views of the keyed tenon and the key. The mortise for the key is to be placed in the middle of the tenon. It will be noted that this mortise is laid out 1-1/16 in. from the shoulder of the tenon while the stretcher is 1-1/8 in. thick. This is to insure the key's pulling the shelf tightly against the side of the stretcher.

Keys may be made in a variety of shapes. The one shown is simple and structurally good. Whatever shape is used, the important thing to keep in mind is that the size of the key and the slant of its forward surface where it passes through the tenon must be kept the same as the mortise made for it in the tenon.

The top is to be fastened to the rails by means either of wooden buttons, Fig. 4, or small angle irons.

There are a bewildering number of mission finishes upon the market. A very satisfactory one is obtained by applying a coat of brown Flemish water stain, diluted by the addition of water in the proportion of two parts water to 1 part stain. When this has dried, sand with No. 00 paper, being careful not to "cut through." Next, apply a coat of dark brown filler; the directions for doing this will be found upon the can in which the filler is bought. One coat usually suffices. However, if an especially smooth surface is desired, a second coat may be applied in a similar manner.

After the filler has hardened, a very thin coat of shellac is to be put on. When this has dried, it should be sanded lightly and then one or two coats of wax should be properly applied and polished. Directions for waxing are upon the cans in which the wax is bought. A beautiful dull gloss so much sought by finishers of modern furniture will be the result of carefully following these directions.

HOME-MADE MISSION CANDLESTICK

There are many kinds of mission candlesticks, but few of them carry out the mission design throughout. Herewith is illustrated a candlestick which may be made from the various woods that will have the style and lines of mission craft work. The base is made from 1-in. material, 4-1/2 in. square. Two holes are bored and countersunk for screws to hold the post and handle. The post is 2-1/4 in. high, bored in one end to fit the size of a candle. The post is covered with a 3/8-in. thick cap, 2 in. square. This, also, is bored to fit the candle. The handle is 3/8 in. thick and 3 in. long with a 3/8-in. square mortise and is notched to fit the base. The wood may be selected to match any other piece of furniture and finished in any of the mission stains.

ANOTHER STYLE OF MISSION CHAIR

The material necessary to make a mission chair as shown in the accompanying illustration may be secured from a planing mill with all four surfaces squared and sandpapered. The mill can do this work quickly and the expense will be nothing compared with the time it takes to do the work by hand.

The following is the stock list:

4 legs, 2-1/2 by 2-1/2 by 32-1/2 in. 2 bottom end rails 7/8 by 5-3/4 by 23-1/2 in. 2 bottom side rails 7/8 by 5-3/4 by 28-1/2 in. 2 top end rails 7/8 by 4-1/2 by 23-1/2 in. 1 top back rail 7/8 by 4-1/2 by 28-1/2 in. 2 cleats 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 26-1/2 in. 7 slats 1/2 by 2 by 24 in.

This design was purposely made simple. If it is considered too severe and the worker has had some experience in woodwork, it can easily be modified by adding vertical slats in back and sides. These should be made of 1/2-in. stock and their ends should be "let into" the rails by means of mortises.

Either plain red oak or quarter-sawed white oak will do. Begin by squaring up one end of each leg, marking and cutting them to length and planing up the second ends so that they shall be square. Both the top and bottom of each leg should be beveled or rounded off about 1/4 in. so that they may not splinter or cause injury to the hand.

When all of the legs have been made of the same length, set them on end in the positions they are to have relative to one another and mark with pencil the approximate locations of the mortises. Next, place them on the bench, side by side, even the ends and square sharp lines across to indicate the ends of the mortises. The drawing shows the dimensions to use. A sharp pencil should be used for this marking and the lines should be carried entirely across the two faces of each piece.

Set the gauge for the side of the mortise nearest the face edge. With this setting, mark all the mortises, then set for the second side of the mortise and complete the gauging.

There are two ways of cutting small mortises in common use. One is by using a chisel of a width just equal to that of the mortise. The other is by using a smaller chisel after the mortise has first been bored with the brace and bit. In the first method the cutting is begun at the middle of the mortise where a V-shaped opening is made the full depth of the mortise that is to be. Continuing from the middle, vertical cuts are taken first toward one end and then toward the other. The chips are pried out as the cutting proceeds. In making the last cut this prying must be omitted, otherwise the edge of the mortise would be ruined. It will be necessary to stand so as to look along the opening in order to get the sides plumb.

This method of cutting, when once the "knack" has been attained, will be found much easier, quicker and more accurate for small openings, such as these, than the usual method. The second method, which is the usual one, needs no description.

The rails should next have the tenons cut on their ends. It may not be out of place to remind the amateur that the lengths of the various like pieces can best be laid off by placing them on the bench, measuring off the proper distances on one of them and then with try-square marking across the edges of all of them at once. This not only saves time in that but one set of measurements need be made, but it insures all the pieces being similarly laid off. In measuring off for the shoulders of the tenons, begin at the middle of the length of the rail and measure half of the distance each way. By doing so, if there are any slight differences in the lengths of the pieces this difference will be divided between the two tenons and no harm will be done.

In gauging the tenons take the precaution to mark a working face and joint edge, even if all the surfaces were finish-planed at the mill. It is very important that all tenon gauging be done from these faces. The same is true of the legs or posts, and the slats if there are to be any.

To avoid confusion it is well to number each tenon by means of the chisel with a Roman numeral and its corresponding mortise with the same. This will prevent the fitting of one tenon into more than one mortise.

Put the parts together with warm glue if it can be had, otherwise use the prepared cold glue. In cold weather the wood ought to be warmed before the glue is applied. Put the ends of the chair together first. When the glue has set on these put the other rails in place.

When clamping up the second set of rails make sure the frame of the chair is square. The best way to test for squareness is to measure the diagonals with a stick. Spring the frame until they measure alike, using a brace to hold the frame in position until the glue can harden.

Before staining, scrape off any surplus glue, for stain will not adhere to glue and a white spot will be the result of failing to remove it. Fasten cleats to the front and back rails with screws. To these cleats fasten the slats as shown in the drawing. A cushion of Spanish leather, such as is shown in the photograph, can be bought at the furniture store or the upholsterer's. It can be made by the amateur quite easily, however. The two parts are fastened together with leather thongs and the filling is of hair or elastic felt. A cushion for the back might well be provided.

To finish the wood to match a brown leather proceed as follows: With a cloth or brush, stain the wood with brown Flemish water stain diluted by the addition of four parts of water. When this has dried, sandpaper smooth, using No. 00 paper held on the tips of the fingers. Apply a dark brown filler. When this has flatted, i.e., when the gloss has disappeared, which will be in the course of ten or fifteen minutes, wipe off clean with excelsior and then with waste or a cloth. Allow this to dry over night, then apply two or three coats of wax. Polish each coat with a flannel cloth by briskly rubbing it.

A settle can be made after this design by using longer front and back rails. Rails 42 in. between shoulders will make a good length for a settle.

HOW TO MAKE AND FINISH A MAGAZINE STAND

For the magazine stand shown herewith there will be needed the following pieces:

1 top, 7/8 in. by 15-1/2 in. by 16-1/2 in. 1 shelf, 7/8 in. by 11-1/2 in. by 12-1/2 in. 1 shelf, 7/8 in. by 12-1/2 in. by 14-3/4 in. 1 shelf, 7/8 in. by 13-1/2 in. by 16-1/2 in. 2 sides, 7/8 in. by 14-1/2 in. by 33-1/2 in. 1 brace, 7/8 in. by 3-1/4 in. by 17 in. 1 brace, 7/8 in. by 2-1/2 in. by 11-1/2 in. 6 braces, 7/8 in. by 2 in. by 2 in.

Order these pieces mill-planed on two surfaces to the thickness specified above and also sandpapered. Quarter-sawed white oak makes the best appearance of all the woods that are comparatively easy to obtain. Plain sawed red or white oak will look well but are more liable to warp than the quarter-sawed. This is quite an element in pieces as wide as these.

Begin work on the sides first. Plane a joint edge on each and from this work the two ends. The ends will be square to the joint edge but beveled to the working face. A bevel square will be needed for testing these beveled ends.

To set the bevel make a drawing, full size or nearly so, of the front view and place the bevel on the drawing, adjusting its sides to the angle wanted. Work from a center line in laying off the drawing.

Having planed the ends, lay off the sides. This is done by measuring from the joint edge along the bottom 14 in., from the joint edge along the top 1-1/2 in. and from this 11 in. Connect the points by means of a pencil and straightedge.

Before cutting off the joint edges of the pieces measure off and square lines across to indicate the locations of the shelves. Put both pieces together and mark across both joint edges at once to insure getting both laid off alike.

The design at the bottom can be varied to suit the fancy of the worker. For such a design as is shown, draw on paper, full size, half of it; fold on the center line and with scissors cut both sides of the outline by cutting along the line just drawn. Trace around this pattern on the wood, and saw out with compass or turning saw.

The shelves may now be made. The bevel of the ends of the shelves will be the same as for the ends of the side pieces. The lengths may be obtained by measuring the drawing. Remember that length is always measured along the grain and that the end grain of the shelves must extend from side to side in this stand. The widths may be obtained by measuring the width of the sides at the points marked out on them for the location of the shelf ends. It is best not to have the shelves the full width of the sides, since the edges of the shelves are to be faced with leather. Make each shelf 1/2 in. less than the width of the side, at the place that the shelf is to be fastened.

The top will be squared up in the usual manner, 15 in. wide by 16 in. long.

These parts may now be put together. They may be fastened in any one of a variety of ways. Round-head blued screws may be placed at regular intervals through the sides. Finishing nails may be used and the heads set and covered with putty stained to match the wood. Finish nails may be placed at regular intervals and fancy headed nails used to cover the heads.

The braces should be formed and fitted but not fastened until the finish has been applied. Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all parts not already so treated. Probably no other finish appeals to so many people as golden oak. There is no fixed standard of color for golden oak. Different manufacturers have set standards in their part of the country, but the prevailing idea of golden oak is usually that of a rich reddish brown.

Proceed as follows: Egg shell gloss: 1.--One coat of golden oak water stain, diluted with water if a light golden is desired. 2.--Allow time to dry, then sandpaper lightly with fine sandpaper. This is to smooth the grain and to bring up the high lights by removing the stain from the wood. Use No. 00 sandpaper and hold it on the finger tips. 3.--Apply a second coat of the stain diluted about one-half with water. This will throw the grain into still higher relief and thus produce a still greater contrast. Apply this coat of stain very sparingly, using a rag. Should this stain raise the grain, again rub lightly with fine worn sandpaper, just enough to smooth. 4.--When this has dried, put on a light coat of thin shellac. Shellac precedes filling that it may prevent the high lights--the solid parts of the wood--from being discolored by the stain in the filler, and thus causing a muddy effect. The shellac being thin does not interfere with the filler's entering the pores of the open grain. 5.--Sand lightly with fine sandpaper. 6.--Fill with paste filler colored to match the stain. 7.--Cover this with a coat of orange shellac. This coat of shellac might be omitted, but another coat of varnish must be added. 8.--Sandpaper lightly. 9.--Apply two or three coats of varnish. 10.--Rub the first coats with hair cloth or curled hair and then with pulverized pumice stone, crude oil or linseed oil. Affix the braces just after filling, using brads and puttying the holes with putty colored to match the filler. The shelves may be faced with thin leather harmonizing with the oak, ornamental headed tacks being used to fasten it in place.

HOME-MADE LAWN SWING

The coming of spring and summer calls forth various kinds of porch and lawn furniture. A porch or lawn swing to accommodate two or more persons is a thing desired by most people. The lawn swing as shown in the picture is portable and does not need stakes to hold it to the ground. While this swing is substantial and rigid it can be moved from place to place on the lawn, or the chains can be fastened with heavy hooks to the ceiling of a porch instead of using the stand. Either ropes or chains may be used to hang the swing and should be of such length that the seat will be about 20 in. from the ground or floor.

The drawing giving the dimensions for constructing the seat shows how the parts are put together. The front and back apron pieces are mortised to receive a 1-in. square tenon cut on the crosspieces that support the slats. Each end of the apron pieces extends 4 in., and a hole is bored at A into which the hanging ropes or chains are fastened. If ropes are used, bore the holes to fit the rope and when the end of each rope is put through a hole it is tied in a knot to keep from slipping out. Chains can be fastened with eye bolts. Small carriage or stove bolts are used to hold the slats on the framework and cross pieces. The arm rests are fastened with wood screws.

The drawing for the stand gives all the dimensions for its construction. Split the upright pieces or legs with a saw cut to the length as shown. A bolt should be put through each piece edgewise at the end of the saw cut, to keep the wood from splitting any farther when the ends are spread to receive the bolts through the cross pieces at the top. The upper ends of the ropes or chains are fastened close to and under the bolt holding the inside forks of the uprights. This bolt can be long enough to fasten a clevis that will hang underneath for this purpose. The whole swing can be painted with a forest green color which is very suitable for summer outdoor furniture.

HOW TO MAKE A PORTABLE TABLE

A table for outdoor use that can be taken apart, stored or changed from place to place may be made at small expense. Fasten cleats with screws, as shown in Fig. 1, to the bottom of a board of suitable size. The legs are built with a cross piece, A, Fig. 4, at the top which fits into slot formed by the cleats, CC, and a crosspiece, B, that has two cleats, D, making a place to receive the bottom end of the brace, E, Fig. 2. The upper ends of the braces, EE, fit in between two pieces, F, fastened in the middle of the board. The three pins fitting loosely in DD and F, Fig. 2, are all that holds table together. The end view is shown in Fig. 3.

HOW TO MAKE A COMBINATION BILLIARD TABLE AND DAVENPORT

A small size billiard table which can be converted quickly into a davenport is made as follows: Secure clear, selected plain sawed white oak in sizes as indicated by the drawing. Have these planed at the mill to the widths and thicknesses specified.

The lower part should be made first. Cut the four posts to length, chamfering the ends somewhat so that they will not splinter when in use. Lay out and cut the mortises which are to receive the rails. The lower rails are to be 1-1/8 in. thick and the mortises are to be laid out in the legs so as to bring their outer surfaces almost flush with those of the posts. The upper rails are 2-1/4 in. wide. The slats are 3/4 in. thick. Tenons should be thoroughly pinned to the sides of the mortises as shown in the illustration. The braces are 1-3/4 in. thick and are fastened to place with roundhead screws and glue.

The seat may be made by putting in a solid bottom that shall rest upon cleats fastened to the inner surfaces of the rails. The top of this bottom should rest about 3/4 in. below the top edge of the rails. A well filled leather cushion completes this part.

A more satisfactory result is obtained by putting in springs and upholstering the seat. Upon this the leather cushion can be placed.

The top or table is built upon and about a heavy frame of well seasoned 1-3/4-in. by 5-3/4-in. white pine. The parts to this frame are thoroughly mortised and tenoned together. Middle stretchers, lengthwise and crosswise, give added strength and rigidity. Upon this frame the slate bed is leveled by planing the frame wherever necessary. Slats are fastened to the bed by screws, the heads of which are countersunk so that they may be covered over even with plaster of paris.

The top and side facings are built together, the angle being reinforced with block and glue, as shown in detail. These facings, to which the cushions are attached, are afterward made fast to the frame by ornamental headed screws. The detail and photograph show the manner of applying the under facing.

Before attaching the top and side facings, the bed cloth should be placed over the slate and fastened. The nap of the cloth should run from the head toward the opposite end of the table. Draw the cloth as tight as possible, taking care that there shall be no wrinkles.

The billiard cushions can be bought ready to cover. The bumpers which keep the top from striking the front posts can be obtained by making proper selection from oak door bumpers carried in stock by hardware dealers. The brass swing bars, most likely, can be obtained at the same place.