Part 35

The carving knife should be very sharp, and not heavy; and it should be held firmly in the hand: also the dish should be not too far from the carver. It is customary to help the fish with a fish trowel, and not with a knife. The middle part of a fish is generally considered the best. In helping it, avoid breaking the flakes, as that will give it a mangled appearance.

In carving ribs or sirloin of beef, begin by cutting thin slices off the side next to you. Afterwards you may cut from the tender-loin, or cross-part near the lower end. Do not send any one the outside piece, unless you know that they particularly wish it.

In helping beef-steak, put none of the bone on the plate.

In cutting a round of corned beef, begin at the top; but lay aside the first cut or outside piece, and send it to no one, as it is always dry and hard. In a round of _a-la-mode beef_, the outside is frequently preferred.

In a leg of mutton, begin across the middle, cutting the slices quite down to the bone. The same with a leg of pork or a ham. The latter should be cut in _very thin_ slices, as its flavour is spoiled when cut thick.

To taste well, a tongue should be cut crossways in round slices. Cutting it lengthwise (though the practice at many tables) injures the flavour. The middle part of the tongue is the best. Do not help any one to a piece of the root; that, being by no means a favoured part, is generally left in the dish.

In carving a fore-quarter of lamb, first separate the shoulder part from the breast and ribs, by passing the knife under, and then divide the ribs. If the lamb is large, have another dish brought to put the shoulder in.

For a loin of veal, begin near the smallest end, and separate the ribs; helping a part of the kidney (as far as it will go) with each piece. Carve a loin of pork or mutton in the same manner.

In carving a fillet of veal, begin at the top. Many persons prefer the first cut or outside piece. Help a portion of the stuffing with each slice.

In a breast of veal, there are two parts very different in quality, the ribs and the brisket. You will easily perceive the division; enter your knife at it, and cut through, which will separate the two parts. Ask the persons you are going to help, whether they prefer a rib, or a piece of the brisket.

For a haunch of venison, first make a deep incision, by passing your knife all along the side, cutting quite down to the bone. This is to let out the gravy. Then turn the broad end of the haunch towards you, and cut it as deep as you can, in thin, smooth slices, allowing some of the fat to each person.

For a saddle of venison, or of mutton, cut from the tail to the other end on each side of the back-bone, making very thin slices, and sending some fat with each. Venison and roast mutton chill very soon, therefore it is usual to eat it with iron heaters under the plates. Some heaters are made to contain hot coals, others are kept warm with boiling water, and some are heated by spirits of wine; the last is a very exceptionable mode, as the blue blaze flaming out all around the plate, is to many persons frightful. Currant jelly is an indispensable appendage to venison, and to roast mutton, and to ducks.

A young pig is most generally divided before it comes to table, in which case, it is not customary to send in the head, as to many persons it is a revolting spectacle after it is cut off. When served up whole, first separate the head from the shoulders, then cut off the limbs, and then divide the ribs. Help some of the stuffing with each piece.

To carve a fowl, begin by sticking your fork in the pinion, and drawing it towards the leg; and then passing your knife underneath, take off the wing at the joint. Next, slip your knife between the leg and the body, to cut through the joint; and with the fork, turn the leg back, and the joint will give way. Then take off the other wing and leg. If the fowl has been trussed (as it ought to be) with the liver and gizzard, help the liver with one wing, and the gizzard with the other. The liver wing is considered the best. After the limbs are taken off, enter your knife into the top of the breast, and cut under the merry-thought, so as to loosen it, lifting it with your fork. Afterwards cut slices from both sides of the breast. Next take off the collar-bones, which lie on each side of the merry-thought, and then separate the side-bones from the back. The breast and wings are considered as the most delicate parts of the fowl; the back, as the least desirable, is generally left in the dish. Some persons, in carving a fowl, find it more convenient to take it on a plate, and as they separate it, return each part to the dish; but this is not now the usual way.

A turkey is carved in the same manner as a fowl; except that the legs and wings being larger, are separated at the lower joint. The lower part of the leg, (or drumstick, as it is called,) being hard, tough, and stringy, is never helped to any one, but allowed to remain on the dish. First cut off the wing, leg, and breast from one side; then turn the turkey over, and cut them off from the other.

To carve a goose, separate the leg from the body, by putting the fork into the small end of the limb; pressing it close to the body, and then passing the knife under, and turning the leg back, as you cut through the joint. To take off the wing, put your fork into the small end of the pinion, and press it closely to the body; then slip the knife under, and separate the joint. Next cut under the merry-thought, and take it off; and then cut slices from the breast. Then turn the goose, and dismember the other side. Take off the two upper side-bones, that are next to the wings; and then the two lower side-bones. The breast and legs of a goose afford the finest pieces. If a goose is old, there is no fowl so tough; and if difficult to carve, it will be still more difficult to eat.

Partridges, pheasants, grouse, &c., are carved in the same manner as fowls. Quails, woodcocks, and snipes are merely split down the back; so also are pigeons, giving a half to each person.

In helping any one to gravy, or to melted butter, do not pour it _over_ their meat, fowl, or fish, but put it to one side on a vacant part of the plate, that they may use just as much of it as they like. In filling a plate, never heap one thing on another.

In helping vegetables, do not plunge the spoon down to the bottom of the dish, in case they should not have been perfectly well drained, and the water should have settled there.

By observing carefully how it is done, you may acquire a knowledge of the joints, and of the process of carving, which a little daily practice will soon convert into dexterity. If a young lady is ignorant of this very useful art, it will be well for her to take lessons of her father, or her brother, and a married lady can easily learn from her husband. Domestics who wait at table may soon, from looking on daily, become so expert that, when necessary, they can take a dish to the side-table and carve it perfectly well.

At a dinner party, if the hostess is quite young, she is frequently glad to be relieved of the trouble of carving by the gentleman who sits nearest to her; but if she is familiar with the business, she usually prefers doing it herself.

TO DRAW POULTRY, &c.

Though to prepare poultry for cooking is by no means an agreeable business, yet some knowledge of it may be very useful to the mistress of a house, in case she should have occasion to instruct a servant in the manner of doing it; or in the possible event of her being obliged to do it herself; for instance, if her cook has been suddenly taken ill, or has left her unexpectedly.

As all poultry is, of course, drawn in the same manner, it will be sufficient to designate the mode of emptying the inside of a fowl. In winter, if the fowl is frozen, lay it before the fire till it has completely thawed. Then have ready one or more large pieces of waste paper, rolled up loosely into a long wisp; lay the fowl down on a clean part of the hearth, and, taking its legs in your hand, light the paper, and pass it back and forward above the surface of the skin, (turning the fowl on both sides,) so as to singe off all the hairs; doing it so carefully as not to burn or scorch the skin. There should always be a quantity of old newspapers, or other waste paper, kept in a closet or drawer of the kitchen for this and other purposes. Next, lay the fowl upon its back on a clean old waiter or tray, (such as should be kept in every kitchen,) and with a large sharp knife cut off, first the head, and then the legs at the first joint. The next thing is to cut a very long slit in the skin at the right side of the neck, and with your fingers strip down the skin towards the shoulders, till you come to the craw, which you must take out with your hand. Then with your knife make two long deep cuts or incisions on each side of the body, going downward towards the tail. Put your hand into the cut or orifice on the right side, and pull out the heart, liver, gizzard, and then the entrails. Take care not to break the gall-bag, or its liquor will run over the liver, and make it so bitter that it cannot be eaten, and should therefore be thrown away without cooking. Next, to flatten the body, break the breast-bone by striking on it hard with your hand. Then tuck the legs into the lower part of the slits that you have cut on each side of the body. Afterwards with your hand bend or curve inwards the end of the neck-bone, and tuck it away under the long loose piece of skin left there. After this, lay the fowl in a small tub of cold water, and wash it well inside and out: then dry it with a clean towel.

Next, cut open the gizzard, empty it of the sand and gravel, and take out the thick inside skin. Split open the heart, and let out the blood that is in it. Then carefully cut the gall-bag from the liver, so as not to break it. Wash clean the heart, liver, and gizzard, (having trimmed them neatly,) and return the heart to the inside of the breast; putting back also the eggs, if you have found any. Have ready the stuffing, and fill up with it the vacancy from which you have taken the craw, &c., pressing it in hard. Next, taking between your thumb and finger the above-mentioned piece of skin at the top of the neck, draw it down tightly towards the back of the fowl, (folding it nicely over the bent end of the neck-bone,) and fasten it down between the shoulders with a skewer, which must be stuck in so as to go lengthways down the back. This will prevent any of the stuffing from getting out, and will keep all compact and nice.

Then run a skewer through both the wings and the upper part of the body, tucking in the liver so as to appear from under the right pinion, and the gizzard (scoring it first) on the left. Both pinions must be bent upwards. Lastly, secure all by tying two strings of small twine tightly round the fowl; one just above the skewer that confines the legs; the other just below that which passes through the wings.

Of course, the strings and skewers are removed before the poultry is sent to table.

Turkeys, geese, and ducks are always trussed in this manner, the legs being cut off at the first joint. So are fowls for boiling. But when fowls are to be roasted, some cooks leave on the whole of the legs and feet, (scraping and washing them clean,) and drawing the feet up quite to the breast, where they are tied together by a string.

Pigeons, pheasants, partridges, &c., are all trussed as above, with the legs short.

To draw a little roasting pig, cut the body open by one long slit, and before you take out what is inside, loosen it all with a sharp knife; then extract it with your hands. Empty the head also. Afterwards wash the animal clean, (inside and out,) and fill the vacancy with stuffing. Having bent the knees under, skewer the legs to the body, and secure the stuffing by tying twine tightly several times round the body; first fastening the slit by pinning it with a wooden skewer. Having boiled the liver and heart, chop them to enrich the gravy.

FIGURES EXPLANATORY OF THE PIECES INTO WHICH THE FIVE LARGE ANIMALS ARE DIVIDED BY THE BUTCHERS.

INDEX.

Acid salt, 427.

Almond cake, 346.

Almond custard, 316.

Almond ice-cream, 326.

Almond maccaroons, 351.

Almond pudding, 286.

Another almond pudding, 286.

Anchovy catchup, 174.

Anchovy sauce, 164.

Anniseed cordial, 401.

Apees, 354.

Apples, baked, 252.

Apple butter, 253.

Apple butter, without cider, 434.

Apple custard, 315.

Apple dumplings, 307.

Apple fritters, 312.

Apple jelly, 253.

Apple and other pies, 281.

Apple pot-pie, 434.

Apples, preserved, 251.

Apple pudding, baked, 305.

Apple pudding, boiled, 306.

Apple sauce, 168.

Apple water, 417.

Apricots, preserved, 247.

Arrow-root blancmange, 329.

Arrow-root jelly, 411.

Arrow-root pudding, 291.

Artichokes, to boil, 195.

Asparagus, to boil, 199.

Asparagus soup, 35.

Balm of Gilead oil, 425.

Barberry jelly, 270.

Barberries, to pickle, 217.

Barley water, 414.

Bath buns, 344.

Bean soup, 33.

Beans, (dried,) to boil, 197.

Beans, (green or French,) to boil, 197.

Beans, (green,) to pickle, 215.

Beans, (Lima,) to boil, and dry, 197.

Beans, (scarlet,) to boil, 197.

Beef, remarks on, 68.

Beef, à la mode, 78.

Beef, baked, 71.

Beef bouilli, 82.

Beef, (corned or salted,) to boil, 73.

Beef cakes, 84.

Beef, to corn, 89.

Beef, to dry and smoke, 91.

Beef dripping, to save, 71.

Beef, hashed, 83.

Beef's heart, roasted, 85.

Beef's heart, stewed, 85.

Beef kidney, to dress, 86.

Beef, potted, 92.

Beef, to roast, 69.

Beef soup, fine, 17.

Beef steaks, to broil, 74.

Beef steaks, to fry, 76.

Beef steak pie, 77.

Beef steak pudding, 76.

Beef, to stew, 80.

Beef, (a round of,) to stew, 80.

Beef, (a round of,) to stew another way, 81.

Beef and tongues, to pickle, 90.

Beef tea, 414.

Beets, to boil, 196.

Beets, to stew, 197.

Beer, (molasses,) 392.

Beer, (sassafras,) 392.

Biscuit, (milk,) 361.

Biscuit, (soda,) 371.

Biscuit, (sugar,) 361.

Biscuit, (tea,) 372.

Bitters, 419.

Black cake, 338.

Black-fish, to stew, 431.

Blanc-mange, 327.

Blanc-mange, (arrow-root,) 329.

Blanc-mange, (carrageen,) 328.

Bottled small beer, 408.

Bran bread, 377.

Bread, 374.

Bread, (rye and Indian,) 377.

Bread cake, 350.

Bread jelly, 411.

Bread pudding, baked, 299.

Bread pudding, boiled, 298.

Bread and butter pudding, 299.

Bread sauce, 167.

Broccoli, to boil, 188.

Brown soup, rich, 26.

Buckwheat cakes, 367.

Burnet vinegar, 179.

Burns, remedy for, 420.

Butter, to brown, 163.

Butter, melted or drawn, 163.

Butter, to make, 379.

Butter, to preserve, 381.

Butternuts, to pickle, 218.

Cabbage, to boil, 186.

Cabbage, (red,) to pickle, 226.

Cale-cannon, 187.

Calf's feet broth, 415.

Calf's feet, to fry, 103.

Calf's feet jelly, 329.

Calf's head, dressed plain, 100.

Calf's head, hashed, 101.

Calf's head soup, 30.

Calf's liver, fried, 103.

Calf's liver, larded, 103.

Cantelope, preserved, 236.

Caper sauce, 168.

Capillaire, 403.

Carrots, to boil, 189.

Carrot pudding, 290.

Carp, to stew, 55.

Carrageen blanc-mange, 328.

Catfish soup, 36.

Cauliflower, to boil, 187.

Cauliflower, to pickle, 225.

Cayenne pepper, 182.

Celery, to prepare for table, 204.

Celery sauce, 165.

Celery vinegar, 179.

Charlotte, (plum,) 321.

Charlotte, (raspberry,) 320.

Cheese, to make, 382.

Cheese, (cottage,) 386.

Cheese, (sage,) 385.

Cheese, (Stilton,) 385.

Cheesecake, (almond,) 294.

Cheesecake, (common,) 295.

Cherry bounce, 398.

Cherry cordial, 451.

Cherries, (dried,) 270.

Cherry jam, 270.

Cherry jelly, 269.

Cherries, preserved, 268.

Citron melon slices, 269.

Cherry shrub, 398.

Chestnuts, to roast, 204.

Chestnut pudding, 289.

Chicken broth and panada, 416.

Chickens, broiled, 142.

Chicken croquets and rissoles, 143.

Chicken curry, 146.

Chicken dumplings or puddings, 309.

Chickens, fricasseed, 143.

Chicken jelly, 411.

Chicken pie, 144.

Chicken salad, 147.

Chilblains, remedy for, 420.

Chili vinegar, 180.

Chitterlings, or calf's tripe, 102.

Chocolate, to make, 387.

Chocolate custard, 317.

Chowder, 55.

Cider cake, 347.

Cider, (mulled,) 407.

Cider vinegar, 409.

Cider wine, 396.

Cinderellas, or German puffs, 297.

Citrons, to preserve, 234.

Clam soup, 39.

Clam soup, (plain,) 40.

Clotted cream, 321.

Cocoa, to prepare, 418.

Cocoa shells, to boil, 418.

Cocoa-nut cakes, 347.

Cocoa-nut cakes, (white,) 353.

Cocoa-nut custard, baked, 317.

Cocoa-nut custard, boiled, 317.

Cocoa-nut jumbles, 353.

Cocoa-nut maccaroons, 352.

Cocoa-nut pudding, 287.

Cocoa-nut pudding, another way, 287.

Codfish, (fresh,) to boil, 50.

Codfish, (fresh,) to boil another way, 50.

Codfish, salt, to boil, 49.

Coffee, to make, 389.

Coffee, (French,) 390.

Cold cream, 426.

Cold slaw, 226.

Cold sweet sauce, 170.

Cologne water, 423.

Colouring for confectionary, 333.

Corn, (Indian,) to boil, 192.

Corn, (green,) pudding, 290.

Corns, remedy for, 421.

Cosmetic paste, 427.

Crab-apples, (green,) to preserve, 254.

Crab-apples, (red,) to preserve, 255.

Crabs, (cold,) 65.

Crabs, (hot,) 65.

Crabs, (soft,) 66.

Cranberries, to preserve, 264.

Cranberry sauce, 169.

Cream cake, 372.

Cream, (lemon,) 321.

Cream, (orange,) 321.

Cream, to preserve, 322.

Cream sauce, 170.

Cucumbers, to dress raw, 194.

Cucumbers, to fry, 194.

Cucumbers, to pickle, 213.

Cup cake, 354.

Curaçoa, 435.

Curds and whey, 322.

Currant jelly, (black,) 265.

Currant jelly, (red,) 264.

Currant jelly, (white,) 265.

Currant shrub, 397.

Currant wine, 394.

Custard, (boiled,) 314.

Custard, (plain,) 313.

Custard, (rice,) 314.

Custard, (soft,) 314.

Custard pudding, 300.

Dough nuts, 358.

Ducks, to hash, 150.

Ducks, to stew, 150.

Ducks, to roast, 149.

Dumplings, (apple,) 307.

Dumplings, (light,) 311.

Dumplings, (plain suet,) 310.

Dumplings, (fine suet,) 309.

Dumplings, (Indian,) 310.

Durable ink, 429.

Durable ink, another way, 430.

Eastern pudding, 306.

Eggs, to boil for breakfast, 207.

Eggs, to fricassee, 208.

Eggs, to keep, 206.

Eggs with ham, 123.

Egg nogg, 407.

Eggs, to pack, 268.

Eggs, to pickle, 432.

Egg plant, to stew, 193.

Egg plant, to fry, 193.

Egg plant, stuffed, 194.

Eggs, raw, 419.

Egg sauce, 167.

Election cake, 348.

Elder-berry wine, 395.

Elder-flower wine, 396.

Essence of lemon peel, 408.

Essence of peppermint, 419.

Eve's pudding, 296.

Family soup, 15.

Federal cakes, 350.

Flannel cakes, 367.

Flax-seed lemonade, 418.

Floating island, 320.

Flour, to brown, 163.

Flour hasty-pudding, 301.

Force-meat balls, 161.

Fowls, to boil, 141.

Fowls, to roast, 142.

Fox-grape shrub, 397.

Friar's chicken, 36.

Fritters, (apple,) 312.

Fritters, (plain,) 311.

Frosted fruit, 271.

Fruit queen-cakes, 342.

General sauce, 173.

Gherkins, to pickle, 214.

Ginger, to preserve, 233.

Ginger beer, 391.

Ginger plum-cake, 364.

Gingerbread, (common,) 362.

Gingerbread nuts, 363.

Gingerbread, (Franklin,) 364.

Gingerbread, (white,) 362.

Gooseberries, bottled, 262.

Gooseberry custard, 316.

Gooseberry fool, 261.

Gooseberries, to preserve, 260.

Gooseberries, to stew, 261.

Gooseberry wine, 393.

Goose pie, 152.

Goose pie for Christmas, 153.

Goose, to roast, 151.

Grapes, in brandy, 266.

Grapes, (wild,) to keep, 267.

Grape jelly, 266.

Gravy, (drawn or made,) 162.

Gravy soup, (clear,) 22.

Ground nuts, to roast, 205.

Ground rice milk, 414.

Grouse, to roast, 158.

Gruel, to make, 413.

Gruel, oatmeal, 413.

Halibut, to boil, 46.

Halibut cutlets, 47.

Ham, to boil, 124.

Ham, to broil, 123.

Ham or bacon, directions for curing, 126.

Ham, (to glaze,) 132.

Ham dumplings, 311.

Ham pie, 122.

Ham sandwiches, 123.

Ham, to roast, 126.

Ham, (Westphalia,) to imitate, 131.

Hare or rabbit soup, 28.

Hare, to roast, 137.

Harvey's sauce, 173.

Herbs, to dry, 436.

Hominy, to boil, 192.

Honey cake, 356.

Horseradish vinegar, 180.

Huckleberry cake, 350.

Hungary water, 424.

Ice cream, (almond,) 326.

Ice cream, (lemon,) 322.

Ice cream, (pine apple,) 325.

Ice cream, (raspberry,) 325.

Ice cream, (strawberry,) 325.

Ice cream, (vanilla,) 325.

Ice lemonade, 326.

Ice orangeade, 326.

Icing for cakes, 338.

Indian batter cakes, 368.

Indian corn, to boil, 192.

Indian dumplings, 310.

Indian flappers, 369.

Indian muffins, 369.

Indian mush, 301.

Indian mush cakes, 368.

Indian pound cake, 340.

Indian pudding, baked, 302.

Indian pudding, boiled, 302.

Indian pudding without eggs, 303.

Italian Cream, 332.

Jaune-mange, 329.

Jelly cake, 344.

Johnny cake, 369.

Julienne (à la) soup, 23.

Kid, to roast, 136.

Kitchen pepper, 182.

Kitchiner's fish-sauce, 172.

Kisses, 354.

Lady cake, 342.

Lamb, to roast, 112.

Larding, 160.

Lavender, compound, 421.

Lavender water, 423.

Laudanum, antidote to, 422.

Lead water, 420.

Lemon brandy, 402.

Lemon catchup, 177.

Lemon cordial, 399.

Lemon cream, 321.

Lemon custard, 315.

Lemon juice, to keep, 408.

Lemon peel, to keep, 437.

Lemon peel, (essence of,) 408.

Lemons, preserved, 241.

Lemon pudding, 285.

Lemon syrup, 398.

Lemonade, 404.

Lettuce or salad, to dress, 203.

Lip salve, 426.

Liver dumplings, 310.

Liver puddings, 128.

Lobster, to boil, 61.

Lobster catchup, 174.

Lobster, to fricassee, 62.

Lobster, to dress cold, 61.

Lobster, pickled, 67.

Lobster, potted, 63.

Lobster pie, 64.

Lobster sauce, 164.

Lobster soup, 37.

Lobster, to stew, 62.

Maccaroni, to dress, 210.

Maccaroni soup, 24.

Maccaroni soup, (rich,) 24.

Maccaroons, (almond,) 351.

Maccaroons, (cocoa-nut,) 352.

Maccaroon custard, 318.

Mackerel, to boil, 48.

Mackerel, to broil, 47.

Mangoes, to pickle, 216.

Marbled veal, 105.

Marlborough pudding, 294.

Marmalade cake, 355.

Mead, 397.

Meg Merrilies' soup, 27.

Milk biscuit, 361.

Milk punch, 405.

Milk soup, 25.

Mince pies, 282.

Mince meat, 283.

Mince meat for Lent, 284.

Mince meat, (very plain,) 284.

Minced oysters, 431.

Mint sauce, 167.

Molasses beer, 392.

Molasses candy, 365.

Molasses posset, 407.

Moravian sugar-cake, 349.

Morella cherries, to pickle, 217.

Mock oysters of corn, 193.

Mock turtle, or calf's head soup, 30.

Muffins, (common,) 370.

Muffins, (Indian,) 369.

Muffins, (water,) 370.

Mulled cider, 407.

Mulled wine, 407.

Mulligatawny soup, 29.

Mush, (Indian,) to make, 301.

Mush cakes, 368.

Mushrooms, to broil, 202.

Mushroom catchup, 176.

Mushrooms, to pickle brown, 223.

Mushrooms, to pickle white, 222.

Mushroom sauce, 166.

Mushrooms, to stew, 201.

Musquito bites, remedy for, 421.

Mustard, (common,) 181.

Mustard, (French,) 181.

Mustard, (keeping.) 181.

Mutton, to boil, 107.

Mutton broth, 414.

Mutton broth made quickly, 415.

Mutton, (casserole of,) 111.

Mutton chops, broiled, 108.

Mutton chops, stewed, 110.

Mutton cutlets, à la Maintenon, 109.

Mutton harico, 111.

Mutton, hashed, 110.