Miss Beecher's Domestic Receipt Book Designed as a Supplement to Her Treatise on Domestic Economy
CHAPTER X.
OVENS, YEAST, BREAD, AND BISCUIT.
_On Constructing and Heating an Oven._
The best ovens are usually made thus. After the arch is formed, four or five bushels of ashes are spread over it, and then a covering of charcoal over that, then another layer of bricks over all. The use of this is, that the ashes become heated, and the charcoal being a non-conductor, the heat is retained much longer. In such an oven, cake and pies can be baked after the bread is taken out, and then custards after them. Sometimes four bakings are done in succession.
The first time an oven is used, it should be heated the day previous for half a day, and the oven lid kept up after the fire is out, till heated for baking.
As there is so little discretion to be found in those who heat ovens, the housekeeper will save much trouble and mortification by this arrangement. Have oven wood prepared of sticks of equal size and length. Find, by trial, how many are required to heat the oven, and then require that just that number be used, and no more.
The fire must be made the back side of the oven, and the oven must be heated so hot as to allow it to be closed fifteen minutes after clearing, before the heat is reduced enough to use it. This is called _soaking_. If it is burnt down entirely to ashes, the oven may be used as soon as cleared.
_How to know when an Oven is at the right Heat._
An experienced cook will know without rules. For a novice, the following rules are of some use in determining. If the black spots in the oven are not burnt off, it is not hot, as the bricks must all look red. If you sprinkle flour on the bottom, and it burns quickly, it is _too hot_.
If you cannot hold your hand in longer than to count twenty moderately, it is _hot enough_.
If you can count thirty moderately, it is _not_ hot enough for bread.
These last are not very accurate tests, as the power to bear heat is so diverse in different persons; but they are as good rules as can be given, where there has been no experience.
_How to know when Bread is Sour, or Heavy._
If the bread is sour, on opening it quick and deeply with your fingers, and applying the nose to the opening, a tingling and sour odor escapes. This is remedied by taking a teaspoonful of saleratus, for every four quarts of flour, very thoroughly dissolved in hot water, which is to be put in a hole made in the middle, and very thoroughly kneaded in, or there will be yellow streaks.
If the bread is light and not sour, it will, on opening it deep and suddenly, send forth a pungent and brisk, but not a sour odor, and it will look full of holes, like sponge. Some may mistake the smell of light bread for that of sour bread, but a little practice will show the difference very plainly.
If the bread is light before the oven is ready, knead it a little without adding flour, and set it in a cool place.
If it _rises too much_, it loses all sweetness, and nothing but care and experience will prevent this. The best of flour will not make sweet bread, if it is allowed to rise too much, even when no sourness is induced.
_How to treat Bread when taken from the Oven._
Never set it flat on a table, as it sweats the bottom, and acquires a bad taste from the table.
Always take it out of the tins, and set it up end way, leaning against something.
If it has a thick, hard crust, wrap it in a cloth wrung out of cold water.
Keep it in a tin box, in a cool place, where it will not freeze.
_Yeast._
The article in which yeast is kept must, when new yeast is made, or fresh yeast bought, be scalded and emptied, and then have a salt spoonful of saleratus put in, and be rinsed out again with warm water. If it is glass, rinsing twice with warm water will answer. Junk bottles are best for holding yeast, because they can be corked tight, and easily cleansed.
_Potato Yeast._
By those who use potato yeast, it is regarded as much the best, as it raises bread quicker than common home-brewed yeast, and, best of all, never imparts the sharp, disagreeable yeast taste to bread or cake, often given by hop yeast.
Mash half a dozen peeled boiled potatoes, and mix in a handful of wheat flour, and two teaspoonfuls of salt, and after putting it through a colander, add hot water till it is a batter. When blood warm, put in half a tea-cup of distillery yeast, or twice as much potato, or other home-brewed. When raised, keep it corked tight, and make it new very often in hot weather. It can easily be made when potatoes are boiled for dinner.
_Home-made Yeast, which will keep Good a Month._
Four quarts of water, two handfuls of hops, eight peeled potatoes, sliced, all boiled soft, mixed and strained through a sieve. To this, add a batter, made one-third of Indian, and two-thirds of rye, in a pint of cold water, and then boil the whole ten minutes. When cool as new milk, add a tea-cup of molasses, a tablespoonful of ginger, and a tea-cup of distillery yeast, or twice as much home-brewed.
_Home-brewed Yeast more easily made._
Boil a handful of hops half an hour in three pints of water. Pour half of it, _boiling hot_, through a sieve, on to nine spoonfuls of flour, mix, and then add the rest of the hop water. Add a spoonful of salt, half a cup of molasses, and _when blood warm_, a cup of yeast.
_Hard Yeast._
This often is very convenient, especially for hot weather, when it is difficult to keep yeast.
Take some of the best yeast you can make, and thicken it with Indian meal, and if you have rye, add a little to make it adhere better. Make it into cakes an inch thick, and three inches by two in size, and dry it in a drying wind, but not it the sun. Keep it tied in a bag, in a dry, cool place, where it will not freeze.
One of these cakes is enough for four quarts of flour. When you wish to use it, put it to soak in milk or water for several hours, and then use it like other yeast.
_Rubs, or Flour Hard Yeast._
This is better than hard yeast made with Indian.
Take two quarts of best home-brewed yeast, and a tablespoonful of salt, and mix in wheat flour, so that it will be in hard lumps. Set it in a dry, warm place (but not in the sun) till quite dry. Then leave out the fine parts to use the next baking, and put up the lumps in a bag, and hang it in a dry place.
In using this yeast, take a pint of the rubs for six quarts of flour, and let it soak from noon till night. Then wet up the bread to bake next day.
Brewer’s and distillery yeast cannot be trusted to make hard yeast. Home-brewed is the best, and some housekeepers say, the only yeast for this purpose.
_Milk Yeast._
One pint of new milk, and one teaspoonful of fine salt. One large spoonful of flour. Mix, and keep it blood warm an hour. Use twice as much as the common yeast. Bread soon spoils made of this.
_Wheat Bread of Distillery, or Brewer’s Yeast._
Take eight quarts of flour, and two of milk, a tablespoonful of salt, a gill and a half of distillery yeast, and sometimes rather more, if not first rate. Take double the quantity of home-brewed yeast.
Sift the flour, then make an opening in the middle, pour in a part of the wetting, and put in the salt. Then mix in a good part of the flour. Then pour in the yeast, and mix it well, then add the rest of the wetting, using up the flour so as to make a stiff dough. Knead it half an hour, till it cleaves clean from the hand.
This cannot be wet over night, as, if the yeast is good, it will rise in one or two hours.
Some persons like bread best wet with water, but most very much prefer bread wet with milk. If you have skimmed milk, warm it with a small bit of butter, and it is nearly as good as new milk.
You need about a quart of wetting to four quarts of flour. Each quart of flour makes a common-sized loaf.
_Wheat Bread of Home-brewed Yeast._
Sift eight quarts of flour into the kneading tray, make a deep hole in the middle, pour into it a pint of yeast, mixed with a pint of lukewarm water, and then work up this with the surrounding flour, till it makes a thick batter. Then scatter a handful of flour over this batter, lay a warm cloth over the whole, and set it in a warm place. This is called sponge.
When the sponge is risen so as to make cracks in the flour over it (which will be in from three to five hours), then scatter over it two tablespoonfuls of salt, and put in about two quarts of wetting, warm, but not hot enough to scald the yeast, and sufficient to wet it. Be careful not to put in too much of the wetting at once.
Knead the whole thoroughly for as much as half an hour, then form it into a round mass, scatter a little flour over it, cover it, and set it to rise in a warm place. It usually will take about one quart of wetting to four quarts of flour.
In winter, it is best to put the bread in sponge over night, when it must be kept warm all night. In summer it can be put in sponge early in the morning, for if made over night, it would become sour.
_Baker’s Bread._
Take a gill of distillery yeast, or twice as much fresh home-brewed yeast, add a quart of warm (not hot) water, and flour enough to make a thin batter, and let it rise in a warm place all night. This is the sponge.
Next day, put seven quarts of sifted flour into the kneading tray, make a hole in the centre, and pour in the sponge. Then dissolve a bit of volatile salts, and a bit of alum, each the size of a hickory-nut, and finely powdered, in a little cold water, and add it, with a heaping tablespoonful of salt, to the sponge, and also a quart more of blood-warm water.
Work up the flour and wetting to a dough, knead it well, divide it into three or four loaves, prick it with a fork, put it in buttered pans, and let it rise one hour, and then bake it about an hour. Add more flour, or more water, as you find the dough too stiff, or too soft.
A teaspoonful of saleratus can be used instead of the volatile salts and alum, but it is not so good.
_Wheat Bread of Potato Yeast._
This is made like bread made with home-brewed yeast, except that you may put in almost any quantity of the potato yeast without injury. Those who use potato yeast like it much better than any other. The only objection to it is, that in summer it must be made often, as it will not keep sweet long. But it is very easily renewed. The chief advantage is, that it rises quick, and never gives the sharp and peculiar taste so often imparted to bread and cake by all yeast made with hops.
_Potato Bread._
Rub a dozen peeled and boiled potatoes through a very coarse sieve, and mix with them twice the quantity of flour, mixing very thoroughly. Put in a coffee-cup full of home-brewed, or of potato yeast, or half as much of distillery yeast, also a teaspoonful of salt. Add whatever water may be needed to make a dough as stiff as for common flour bread.
An ounce or two of butter rubbed into the flour, and an egg beat and put into the yeast, and you can have fine rolls, or warm cakes for breakfast.
This kind of bread is very moist, and keeps well.
_Cream Tartar Bread._
Three pints of dried flour, measured after sifting.
Two cups of milk.
Half a teaspoonful of salt.
One teaspoonful of soda (Super Carbonate).
Two teaspoonfuls of cream tartar.
Dissolve the soda in half a tea-cup of hot water, and put it with the salt into the milk. Mix the cream tartar _very_ thoroughly in the flour: the whole success depends on this. Just as you are ready to bake, pour in the milk, knead it up sufficiently to mix it well, and then put it in the oven as quick as possible. Add either more flour or more wetting, if needed, to make dough to mould. Work in half a cup of butter after it is wet, and it makes good short biscuit.
_Eastern Brown Bread._
One quart of rye.
Two quarts of Indian meal: if fresh and sweet, do not scald it; if not, scald it.
Half a tea-cup of molasses.
Two teaspoonfuls of salt.
One teaspoonful of saleratus.
A tea-cup of home-brewed yeast, or half as much distillery yeast.
Make it as stiff as can be stirred with a spoon with warm water. Let it rise from night till morning. Then put it in a large deep pan, and smooth the top with the hand dipped in cold water, and let it stand a while. Bake five or six hours. If put in late in the day, let it remain all night in the oven.
_Rye Bread._
A quart of water, and as much milk.
Two teaspoonfuls of salt, and a tea-cup of Indian meal.
A tea-cup full of home-brewed yeast, or half as much distillery yeast.
Make it as stiff as wheat bread, with rye flour.
_Rice Bread.--No. 1._
One pint of rice, boiled till soft.
Two quarts of rice flour, or wheat flour.
A teaspoonful of salt.
A tea-cup of home-brewed, or half as much distillery yeast.
Milk to make it so as to mould like wheat bread.
_Rice Bread.--No. 2._
Three half pints of ground rice.
Two teaspoonfuls (not heaping) of salt.
Two gills of home-brewed yeast.
Three quarts of milk, or milk and water. Mix the rice with cold milk and water to a thin gruel, and boil it three minutes. Then stir in wheat flour till as stiff as can be stirred with a spoon. When blood warm, add the yeast. This keeps moist longer than No. 1.
_Bread of Unbolted Wheat, or Graham Bread._
Three pints of warm water.
One tea-cup of Indian meal, and one of wheat flour.
Three great spoonfuls of molasses, or a tea-cup of brown sugar.
One teaspoonful of salt, and one teaspoonful of saleratus, dissolved in a little hot water.
One tea-cup of yeast.
Mix the above, and stir in enough unbolted wheat flour to make it as stiff as you can work with a spoon. Some put in enough to mould it to loaves. Try both. If made with home-brewed yeast, put it to rise over night. If with distillery yeast, make it in the morning, and bake when light.
In loaves the ordinary size, bake one hour and a half.
_Apple Bread._
Mix stewed and strained apple, or grated apple uncooked, with an equal quantity of wheat flour; add yeast enough to raise it, and mix sugar with the apple, enough to make it quite sweet. Make it in loaves, and bake it an hour and a half, like other bread.
_Pumpkin Bread._
Stew and strain some pumpkin, stiffen it with Indian meal, add salt and yeast, and it makes a most excellent kind of bread.
_Walnut Hill’s Brown Bread._
One quart of sour milk, and one teaspoonful of salt.
One teaspoonful of pulverized saleratus, and one tea-cup of molasses put into the milk.
Thicken with unbolted wheat, and bake immediately, and you have first-rate bread, with very little trouble.
_French Rolls, or Twists._
One quart of lukewarm milk.
One teaspoonful of salt.
A large tea-cup of home-brewed yeast, or half as much distillery yeast.
Flour enough to make a stiff batter.
Set it to rise, and when very light, work in one egg and two spoonfuls of butter, and knead in flour till stiff enough to roll.
Let it rise again, and when very light, roll out, cut in strips, and braid it. Bake thirty minutes on buttered tins.
_Raised Biscuit._
Rub half a pound of butter into a pound of flour.
One beaten egg.
A teaspoonful of salt.
Two great spoonfuls of distillery yeast, or twice as much home-brewed.
Wet it up with enough warm milk to make a soft dough, and then work in half a pound of butter. When light, mould it into round cakes, or roll it out and cut it with a tumbler.
_Very Nice Rusk._
One pint of milk.
One coffee-cup of yeast. (Potato is best.)
Four eggs.
Flour enough to make it as thick as you can stir with a spoon.
Let it rise till _very_ light, but be _sure_ it is not sour; if it is, work in half a teaspoonful of saleratus, dissolved in a wine-glass of warm water.
When thus light, work together three quarters of a pound of sugar and nine ounces of butter; add more flour, if needed, to make it stiff enough to mould. Let it rise again, and when _very_ light, mould it into small cakes. Bake fifteen minutes in a quick oven, and after taking it out, mix a little milk and sugar, and brush over the rusk, while hot, with a small swab of linen tied to a stick, and dry it in the oven. When you have weighed these proportions once, then _measure_ the quantity, so as to save the trouble of weighing afterward. Write the measures in your receipt-book, lest you forget.
_Potato Biscuit._
Twelve pared potatoes, boiled soft and mashed fine, and two teaspoonfuls of salt.
Mix the potatoes and milk, add half a tea-cup of yeast, and flour enough to mould them well. Then work in a cup of butter. When risen, mould them into small cakes, then let them stand in buttered pans fifteen minutes before baking.
_Crackers._
One quart of flour, with two ounces of butter rubbed in.
One teaspoonful of saleratus in a wine-glass of warm water.
Half a teaspoonful of salt, and milk enough to roll it out.
Beat it half an hour with a pestle, cut it in thin round cakes, prick them, and set them in the oven when other things are taken out. Let them bake till crisp.
_Hard Biscuit._
One quart of flour, and half a teaspoonful of salt.
Four great spoonfuls of butter, rubbed into two-thirds of the flour.
Wet it up with milk till a dough; roll it out again and again, sprinkling on the reserved flour, till all is used. Cut into round cakes, and bake in a quick oven on buttered tins.
_Sour Milk Biscuit._
A pint and a half of sour milk, or buttermilk.
Two teaspoonfuls of salt.
Two teaspoonfuls of saleratus, dissolved in four great spoonfuls of hot water.
Mix the milk in flour till nearly stiff enough to roll, then put in the saleratus, and add more flour. Mould up quickly, and bake immediately.
Shortening for raised biscuit or cake should always be worked in after it is wet up.
_A good Way to use Sour Bread._
When a batch of bread is sour, let it stand till very light, and use it to make biscuit for tea or breakfast, thus:
Work into a portion of it, saleratus dissolved in warm water, enough to sweeten it, and a little shortening, and mould it into small biscuits, bake it, and it is uncommonly good. It is so much liked that some persons allow bread to turn sour for the purpose. Bread can be kept on hand for this use any length of time.