Part 8
ΔΙΙ ΥΨΙΣΤΩ ΜΕΓΙΣΤΩ ΚΑΙ ΕΠΗΚΟΩ ΒΩΛΑΝΟΣ ΖΗΝΟΒΙΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΑΙΡΑΝΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΜΟΚΙΜΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΜΑΘΘΑ ΕΠΙ ΜΕΛΕΤΗ ΣΟΗ ΑΙΡΕΘΕΙΣ _ΕΦΚΑΣ_ ΠΗΓΗΣ ΥΠΟ ΙΑΡΙΒΩΛΟΥ ΘΕΟΥ ΤΟΝ ΒΩ [forsan ΒΩΜΟΝ] ΕΞ ΙΔΙΩΝ ΑΝΕΘΗΚΕΝ ΕΤΟΥΣ Δ Ο Υ ΜΗΝΟΣ YΠΕΡΒΕΡΕΤΑΙΟΥ Κ.
I am pretty confident that the Word I have mark'd with a Line under it, is rightly taken, and therefore know not what to guess it to be, unless the proper Name of the Fountain. And upon that Supposition the Inscription is easily Intelligible, shewing that _Bolanus_, Son of _Zenobius_, &c. being elected Overseer or Curator of this Fountain, under _Jaribolus_, built this Altar to _Jupiter_, in the Year of _Alexander_ 474. _i. e._ of our Lord 150. and on the 20_th_ of _October_, if the last _Kappa_ be a Numeral, as I suppose it must. But who this _Jaribolus_ was, on whom they bestow, as generally upon the _Roman_ Emperors, whose Names occur in the Inscriptions, the Title of ΘΕΟΣ, is not so facile a Conjecture. They were under the _Parthians_, before the _Romans_ fell in amongst them; but the Date shews this to be after the time of _Hadrian_, and so after their coming. Nay, and in an Inscription before mentioned, which is of a later Date than this by 88 Years, we have the Name of the same Person. Hot Sulphureous Baths are things very frequent in this Country; and thence it was that it obtained the Name of _Syria Salutifera_. The scent of the Waters here is much like those of _Bath_ in _England_, but not so strong, neither is the Taste so offensive. On the contrary, when they have run so far from the Fountain, as to become cold, they are very potable, and are the only Waters the Inhabitants use. But we, during our stay there, sent to a Fountain of very excellent Water, about an hour distant from the City.
[Sidenote: The little Temple.]
On the East side likewise of the long Piazza stands, if I may use such an Expression, a Wood of Marble Pillars, some perfect, and others deprived of their beautiful Capitals; but so scattered and confused, that it is not possible to reduce them into any Order, so as to conjecture to what they anciently served. In one place are Eleven together in Square after this manner
. . . . . . . . . . .
paved at the bottom with broad flat Stone, but without any Roof or Covering. And at a little distance from that stands the Ruins of a small Temple, which by the remains seems to have been for the Workmanship very curious: But the Roof is wholly gone, and the Walls very much defaced and consumed with Time. Before the Entrance which looks to the South, is a Piazza supported by six Pillars, two on one Hand of the Door, and two on the other, and at each end one. And the Pedestals of those in the Front have been filled with Inscriptions, both in _Greek_ and the other Language; but they are now so obliterated and worn out, as not to be Intelligible. The most perfect was this that follows.
ΜΑΛΕΝΤΟΝ ΚΑΙ ΑΓΡΙΠΠΑΝ ΙΑΡΑΙΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΡΑΑΙΟΥ ΓΡΑΜΜΑΤΕΑ ΓΕΝΟΜΕΝΟΝ ΤΟ ΔΕΥΤΕΡΟΝ ΕΠΙΔΗΜΙ[Α] ΘΕΟΥ ΑΔΡΙΑΝΟΥ ΑΛΙΜΜΑ ΠΑΡΑΣΧΟΤΑ ΞΕΝΟΙΣ ΤΕ, ΚΑΙ ΠΟΛΕΙΤΑ[ΙΣ]...... And a little below were these straggling Letters visible.
ΕΝΗ....Ν ΥΠΗΡΕΤΗΣΑΝΤΑ ΤΗΤ.... ΣΤΡΑΤΕΥΜΑ ΤΟΥ ... ΥΠΟ....ΗΚΑΙ.....ΤΟΝ ΝΑΟΝ ΤΟΝ....ΔΙΟΣ....ΝΤΩΤ......
I should have imagined the ΚΑΙ to have been a Copulative, and the second Name _Agrippa_ distinct from the former, but that the Words following in the Singular Number, will not admit of such a Construction. The Person then in Memory of whom this Inscription was made, must have been named _Malentus Cæagrippa_, who bearing such an Office as Scribe, or the like, in the Expedition of _Adrian_ the Emperor, performed an Act of Publick Benificence and Generosity, both to Strangers and Citizens, denoted by the Word[16] ΑΛΙΜΜΑ, or ἄλειμμα, which signifies Unction. Perhaps he distributed amongst them Sweet Oyls, to be used in or after their Bathings. 'Tis pity what follows is so imperfect; and especially that we cannot find out the Date: For that might have directed us to the precise time of _Hadrian_'s Expedition into these Oriental Parts, where he made great Conquests, and enlarged the Bounds of the _Roman_ Empire.
[Sidenote: The Sepulchers.]
But as great a Curiosity as any were their Sepulchers, being Square Towers, four or five Stories high, and standing on both sides of a hollow way, towards the North part of the City. They stretch out in length the space of a Mile, and perhaps formerly might extend a great way further. At our first view of them, as we entred the place, we could not conjecture what they were; some thought them the Steeples of ruined Churches, and were in hopes we should have found some footsteps of Christianity here. Others took them to have been Bastions, and part of the Old Fortifications, tho' there is not so much as any Foundation of a Wall to be seen. But when we came a Day or two after, more curiously to enquire into them, we quickly found their use. They were all of the same Form, but of different Splendor and Greatness, according to the Circumstances of their Founders. The first we viewed was entirely Marble; but is now wholly in Ruins, and nothing but a heap of broken Stones, among which we found the pieces of two Statues, one of a Man, and another of a Woman, cut in a sitting, or rather leaning posture; and the Heads and part of the Arms of both being broken off, but their Bodies remaining pretty entire; so that we had the Advantage of seeing their Habits, which appeared very Noble, but more approaching the _European_ Fashion, than what is now in use in the East; which inclined me to believe they might be _Romans_. Upon broken pieces of Stone tumbled here and there, we found some as broken Inscriptions, but not affording any perfect Sense, they are not worth the Transcribing.
Many other Sepulchers there were, as much gone to decay as this, which therefore we past by, to go to two, which stood almost opposite to one another, and seemed most perfect of any, though not without marks of the _Turkish_ Malice. They are two square Towers, rather larger than ordinary Steeples, and five Stories high, the outside being of common Stone, but the Partitions and Floors within of good Marble; and beautified too with very lively Carvings and Paintings, and Figures both of Men and Women, as far as the Breast and Shoulders; but miserably defac'd and broken. Under these Statues, or by their sides, are in the unknown Character, the Names probably of the Persons there buried, or by them represented; or else some other Memorials of them. We entred one of these by a Door on the South side, from which was a Walk cross the whole Building just in the middle. But the Floor was broke up, and so gave us a sight of a Vault below, divided after the same manner. The Spaces on each Hand were again sub-divided into six Partitions by thick Walls, each Partition being capable of receiving the largest Corps: And piling them one above another, as their way appears to have been, each of those Spaces might contain at least six or seven Bodies. For the lowest, second and third Stories, those Partitions were uniform, and altogether the same; save from the second Floor, which answered the main Entrance, one Partition was reserved for a Stair-Case. Higher than this, the Building, being something contracted towards the top, would not afford space for the continuation of the same Method: Therefore the two uppermost Rooms were not so parted, nor perhaps ever had any Bodies lain in them. Unless it was that of the Founder alone, whose Statue wrapt up in Funeral Apparel, and in a lying Posture, is placed in a Nich, or rather Window in the Front of the Monument, so as to be visible both within and without. Near to this Statue was the following Inscription.
ΤΟ ΜΝΗΜΕΙΟΝ ΕΚΤΙΣΑΝ ΕΛΑΒΗΛΕΣ ΜΑΝΝΑΙΟΣ ΣΟΧΑΕΙΣ ΜΑΛΧΟΣ ΟΥΑΒΑΛΛΑΘΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΜΑΝΝΑΙΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΕΛΑΒΗΛΟΥ ΑΥΤΩ ΚΑΙ ΥΙΟΙΣ ΕΤΟΥΣ ΔΙΥ ΜΗΝΟΣ ΞΑΝΔΙΚΟΥ.
'Tis a little doubtful whether ΑΥΤΩ should not rather be made ΑΥΤΟΙΣ; or else there must be a Fault in the Verb, and all those but the Names of one Person. The other Monument on the other side of the way is very much like this; only the Front and Entrance are towards the North, and 'tis not altogether so Polite, nor so well Painted. But the Carvings are as good, and it shews altogether as Stately and Magnificent as the former. Besides, it has the Advantage in Age of a whole Century of Years: As appears from the Date of the following Inscription. 'Tis placed above a Nich in the Front, adorned with handsom Borders and Cornishes; the place, doubtless, of some Statue, and probably that of the Founder.
ΜΝΗΜΕΙΟΝ ΑΙΩΝΙΟΝ ΓΕΡΑΣ ΩΚΟΔΟΜΗΣΕΝ ΓΙΧΟΣ ΜΟΚΙΜΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΚΑΙΛΚΙΑΛΣΙΣΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΜΑ......ΟΥ ΕΙΣΤΕ ΕΑΥΤΟΝ ΚΑΙ ΥΙΟΥΣ ΚΑΙ ΕΓΓΟΝΟΥΣ ΕΤΟΥΣ ΔΙΤ ΜΗΝΕΙ ΞΑΝΔΙΚΩ.
This is the most Ancient Inscription I met with in _Tadmor_, the 314th. Year from the Death of _Alexander_ the Great, preceding the Birth of our Saviour about Ten Years. The other also is between Twenty and Thirty Years before the Reign of _Hadrian_, and consequently before the _Romans_ got footing here. And from these sumptuous Structures, and these costly _Mausolæa_, we may reasonably conclude, they were a Potent and Opulent People, before they became subject to the _Romans_, and were not obliged to them for their Greatness.
And now I believe I have wearied you sufficiently by leading you up and down the Ancient and Famous City of _Tadmor_, and giving you so dry an Account of our Employment there. After 4 Days stay we returned, not the way that we came, but proceeding Eastward towards the River _Euphrates_. In our way to which, the third Day, passing though a Village called _Tieve_, upon a Stone set wrong End upwards, in the midst of the Wall of the Mosch, we met with the following Inscription.
ΔΙΙ ΜΕΓΙΣΤΩ ΚΕΡΑΥΝΙΩ ΥΠΕΡ ΣΩΤΗΡΙΑΣ ΤΡΑ: ΑΔΡΙΑΝΟΥ ΣΕΒ... ΤΟΥ ΚΥΡΙΟΥ ΑΓΑΘΑΝΓΕΛΟΣ ΑΒΙΛΗΝΟΣ ΤΗΣ ΔΕΚΑΠΟΛΕΟΣ ΤΗΝ ΚΑΜΑΡΑΝ ΩΚΟΔΟΜΗΣΕΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΗΝ ΚΛΙΝΗ.... ΕΞ ΙΔΙΩΝ ΑΝΕΘΗΚΕΝ ΕΤΟΥΣ ΕΜΥ ΜΗΝΟΣ ΛΩΟΥ.
And under this was another in the same Language and Character we had seen at _Tadmor_; I was surprized to find such an Inscription in this Place, nor can any way guess how they should come by it: And the mention of _Decapolis_ makes me still more in the Dark. If one might extend the Bounds of _Decapolis_, as some are said to have done, as far as _Cælosyria_, and comprize under this Name again all _Syria_, _Phænicia_ only excepted, then need it not be brought from elsewhere, but first set up in this Village. But this will not be allowed by those who make _Decapolis_ only a part of _Palestine_. The Matter of Fact it contains is only an Account of the Magnificence of this _Agathangelus Abilenus_, whoever he was; who for the safety of the Emperor _Hadrian_, erected at his own Charges, and Dedicated to _Jupiter_ the Thunderer, a Royal Banquetting-House, (for so I take [17]ΚΑΜΑΡΑ to signifie) and a Bed of State; for after ΚΛΙΝΗ there is doubtless a Letter omitted, and it ought to be ΚΛΙΝΗΝ. The Date 445 agrees to the Year of our Lord 123. which was the seventh of the Reign of _Hadrian_. And the Month ΛΩΟΣ is our _August_.
[Sidenote: _Arsoffa._]
The next Day we past by the Ruins of a large Monastery of the _Maronites_, as I guess it to have been by an Inscription we met with upon the Capitals of several Marble Pillars, which supported the middle Isle of a handsome Church, which was to this effect.
† ΕΠΙ ΣΕΡΓΙΟΥ ΕΠΙΣΚΟ. ΤΟΥ ΣΥΝΓΕΝ~ ΜΑΡΩΝΙΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΧΩΡΕΠΙΣΚΟ.
From thence we past on, and came the same Night to _Euphrates_, and having travelled two Days on the Banks of that Famous River, we came to the Tents of the King of the _Arabs_, who had furnish'd us with a Guide for our Voyage. With him we remained two Nights, and in two Days Travel more came back safe to _Aleppo_, having been out in the whole just 18 Days.
_The Reverend and Learned Author of this Account, cannot with Justice be censured, if some Minute Particulars of the History of this Place, have escaped his Memory, being obliged to write without recourse to the Books proper for his purpose, which were not to be had in that Country. We have since procured a Curious Prospect of these Noble Ruins, taken on the Place; which, with some further Remarks thereon, are here Published._
FOOTNOTES:
[14] This _Assyne_ was in the Year of our Lord 1693. Deposed by the _Turks_, and one _Dor_ advanced to fill his place; so that now he is constrained to live upon Rapine, being followed by a considerable Number of Men, who delight not to Labour, nor to live under any settled Government.
[15] 'Tis not improbable that ΟΛΟΓΕΣΙΑΣ might have been the Name of a Person. _Vologeses_ is a known Name in History among the _Parthian_ Kings; to which the other seems to bear a great Affinity.
[16] _Plin. Secun. Ep. l._ 2. Tells us of one, who was accused of an Illegal Exaction of Money from a Province, _Titulo Unguentarii_; now what was in that case unjustly exacted, might be in this a Voluntary Donation, not of the Province to the Governour, but of a great Man to the People. Or else _Unguentarium_ may be supposed to be a Donative, like _Clavarium_ or _Culinarium_, used sometimes by the _Romans_.
[17] This Word I find both in _Tacitus_ and _Strabo_, used for a kind of Ships or Boats, long, narrow, light, and capable of receiving 20, or at most 30 Men; but what they should do with Boats in an Inland Town, without either River or Lake near it, I cannot imagine. I rather adhere to the other signification.
_An Extract of the Journals of two several Voyages of the _English Merchants_ of the Factory of _Aleppo_, to _Tadmor_, anciently call'd _Palmyra_._
Our Merchants of this worthy Factory, being generally Men of more than ordinary Birth and Education, have not been wanting (as the intervals of leisure from their gainful Traffick would permit) to make Voyages of Curiosity, to visit the celebrated Remains of Antiquity in those Parts, whereby the once flourishing State of the World, under the _Roman Empire_, is abundantly evinced. And being inform'd by the Natives, that the Ruins of the City of _Tadmor_ were more considerable than any they had yet seen, they were tempted to enterprize this hazardous and painful Voyage over the _Desart_; but having been, by the perfidy of the _Arabs_, disappointed of their Desires in their first Attempt, they were obliged to defer their Curiosity, till they could better provide for their Security: whereof being assured, from the Confidence some of them had in the Friendship of _Assyne_ then King of the _Arabs_, they adventured again, in the Year 1691, and had full liberty to visit, observe and transcribe what they pleased.
What Account they there took, the Publick has already seen in our Last, since which, by the Favour of Mr. _Timothy Lanoy_ and Mr. _Aaron Goodyear_, two very Eminent Merchants, who were both in the first Voyage, we have received not only the Draught of the Prospect of those noble Ruins, taken upon the Place, (of which we here give a Copy,) but also the Journals of both the Voyages; which, for the Satisfaction of the Curious, we have thought fit to Publish.
_The first Voyage_, Anno 1678.
_July 18._ at Five in the Morning, we set out from _Aleppo_, being sixteen _English_; but with Servants and Mulettiers in all forty; and in four Hours and an half, travelling South by East, we arrived at a Village call'd _Cafferabite_, being at the edge of the Desart, here we reposed the rest of that Day.
_July 19._ we rose at one in the Morning, and directed our Course S. S. E. over the Desart, for a Fountain call'd _Churraick_; but our Guide losing his Way, there being no Path, 'twas near Noon before we found it: which made us doubt of our Safety. This Well has no Signs near it to discover it by. Here we pitch'd our Tents, and refresh'd our Selves and Horses; and the Water being of a Purgative Quality, made us some Diversion. In our way, we found two _Arabs_ with two Asses, one whereof carried Water and a little Bread, the other they rod on by turns; they had one Gun, with which they they shot Antelopes, the Bullet being a hard Stone broken round, and cased with Lead; they had on the Palms of their Hands, Elbows, Knees and Feet, some Antelope-Skin tied, that they may be able to creep the better on the Ground, to Shoot; one of the Asses walking by as a Stalking-horse, and the _Arab_ imitating the Cry of the Gazel till he get within Shot: These _Arabs_ are called _Selebee_. At the Well came to us some _Arabs_ that were making Ashes of the ordinary sort of Weeds call'd _Chuddraife_, _Ruggot_ and _Cuttaff_; these they cut and dry, and putting them into a Pit, set Fire to them, and the Ashes cake at the bottom. The Ashes they carry to _Eglib_ and _Tripoli_, to make Soap of: But the best sort of Ashes are made of the Weed _Shinon_, which grows about _Tadmor_, _Soukny_, _Tibe_ and _Yarecca_; it grows like Broom in _England_, and in Shape resembles Coral.
_July 20._ we rose at four in the Morning, and Travelling two Hours E. S. E. we arrived at _Andrene_, where we found the Ruins of two or three Churches, and of a great Town lying in a large Plain; where having tarried about an Hour and an half, and taken some fragments of Greek Inscriptions, which afforded no certain Sense, but yet were evidently Christian, we march'd again S. by E. and in about four Hours time came to a pleasant Aqueduct call'd _Sheck-alal_; this Aqueduct is cut through the main Rock, for a great way from the Mountains; and where it ends, the _Arabs_ have made a Garden, which afforded us Melons, Cucumbers, Purslain, _&c._ In a Grotto hard by, there dwelt an _Arab_ with his Family; he had a dozen _Buffalo's_, which they used both for their Milk, and to Plow the Ground, Sowing both Wheat, and Barly: Hither the _Arabs_ resort, when they have committed any Robbery about _Aleppo_, or _Hama_, and here they repose, and divide the Spoil.
_July 21._ we rose at four in the Morning, and riding two Hours South, we came to a Ruin call'd _Briadeen_; here we found the following Inscription on a Stone, good part in the Ground:
ΑΦΙΕΡΩΘΗ ΑΑΙΛΥΝΔΙΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΑΜΦ ΕΤΟΥΣ ΔΙΑ ΜΑΤΕΡΝΟΥ ΚΑ(Ι Π)ΑΠΠΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΜΑΙΚΟΥ ΚΝΕΤΜΝ -------- Υ -------- Ν
From hence going South-East, in four Hours more we came to a Well called _Costal_ (which signifies a _Spring in Arab_.) Most part of our way through the Desart we were troubled with _Rat-holes_ in great numbers, like Coneyboroughs, which by the sinking in of the Earth, very much incommoded our Horses and Mules. These _Rats_ have at the ends of their Tails a bush of Hair, and the _Arabs_ eat them all, excepting one part. From this Well we arose about four in the Afternoon, and began to ascend small Hills, covered with Trees, which, for the most part, were the small _Pistacho_'s which the _Arabs_ pickle with Salt; but eaten green, are good to quench Thirst. We travelled on three Hours up the Hills, where we pitch'd that Night, having no other Water but what we carry'd with us; and at Night we had a small Shower of Rain, a thing unusual in that Country at that time of the Year.
_July 22._ we rose by Two in the Morning, and Travelling E. S. E. we came by Eleven to a Well call'd _G'hor_, where we found it very Hot, and saw several prints of Horses Feet, so that we suspected some _Arabs_ had newly past that way.