Part 1
Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was produced from scanned images of public domain material from the Internet Archive.)
MENTONE, CAIRO, AND CORFU
BY
CONSTANCE FENIMORE WOOLSON
AUTHOR OF "ANNE" "EAST ANGELS" "HORACE CHASE" ETC.
ILLUSTRATED
NEW YORK HARPER & BROTHERS PUBLISHERS 1896
BY CONSTANCE FENIMORE WOOLSON.
THE FRONT YARD, Etc. Illustrated. $1 25. ANNE. Illustrated. $1 25. EAST ANGELS. $1 25. JUPITER LIGHTS. $1 25. HORACE CHASE. $1 25. CASTLE NOWHERE. $1 00. RODMAN THE KEEPER. $1 00. FOR THE MAJOR. Illustrated. $1 00.
PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
Copyright, 1895, by HARPER & BROTHERS.
_All rights reserved._
PUBLISHERS' NOTE.
The substance of this collection of Miss Woolson's sketches of travel in the Mediterranean originally appeared in HARPER'S MAGAZINE. "At Mentone" was published in that periodical in 1884; "Cairo in 1890," and "Corfu and the Ionian Sea," appeared in 1891 and 1892. As presented in this volume, the two sketches last mentioned contain much interesting material not included in their original form as magazine articles.
CONTENTS
PAGE
AT MENTONE 3
CAIRO IN 1890 149
CORFU AND THE IONIAN SEA 283
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
STREET IN THE NEW QUARTER OF CAIRO _Frontispiece_
AT MENTONE 5
THE OLD TOWN 9
A STREET IN THE OLD TOWN 13
RUE LONGUE BLOCKADED BY AN ARTIST 19
THE CORNICE ROAD, MENTONE 23
"TO ITALY"--PONT ST. LOUIS 27
THE PALMS OF BORDIGHERA 31
THE BONE CAVERNS 37
THE PROFESSOR DISCOURSES 43
THE WASHER-WOMEN 49
OIL MILL 55
A MEDITERRANEAN BOAT 60
BRINGING LEMONS FROM THE TERRACE 63
ON THE WAY TO L'ANNUNZIATA 69
THE MONASTERY OF L'ANNUNZIATA 74
CAPUCHIN MONKS 77
MONACO 83
STREET IN ROCCABRUNA 91
THE KING OF THE OLIVES 97
FEUDAL TOWER NEAR VENTIMIGLIA 102
DOLCE ACQUA 107
PIFFERARI 113
MONACO--THE PALACE AND PORT 117
ENTRANCE TO THE PALACE, MONACO 121
THE SALLE GRIMALDI, IN THE PALACE, MONACO 126
THE RIDE TO SANT' AGNESE 129
VIEW FROM SANT' AGNESE 134
FETE, VILLAGE OF SANT' AGNESE 137
VESTIGES OF ROMAN MONUMENTS 140
THE STATUE IN THE CEMETERY 143
CONTEMPORARY PORTRAIT OF CLEOPATRA 149
THE NILE BRIDGE, CAIRO 154
BEFORE THE LITTLE MOSQUE 158
TOMB-MOSQUE OF KAIT BEY 161
A SELLER OF WATER-JUGS, CAIRO 167
STATUE OF PRINCE RAHOTEP'S WIFE 172
THE WOODEN MAN 175
AN EGYPTIAN WOMAN 181
THE NILE--COMING DOWN TO GET WATER 187
THE DOCK AT OLD CAIRO 191
MOUCHRABIYEHS IN THE OLD QUARTER 195
INTERIOR COURT OF A NATIVE HOUSE, CAIRO 199
A DONKEY RIDE 205
AN ARAB CAFE 209
HEAD-PIECE 212
PORCH OF EL AZHAR 215
STUDENTS IN THE OUTER COURT, EL AZHAR 221
BEFORE THE SACRED NICHE 227
OUTER ENTRANCE OF THE CITADEL, CAIRO 233
A MECCA DOOR 237
THE ROAD TO CHOUBRA 239
GARDEN-HOUSE AT CHOUBRA, SHOWING PART OF THE LAKE NEAR CAIRO 243
THE KHEDIVE 247
CHIEF WIFE OF EX-KHEDIVE ISMAIL, WITH HER PRIVATE BAND 251
AN EGYPTIAN DANCING-GIRL 259
THE INUNDATION NEAR CAIRO 267
A MOHAMMEDAN CEMETERY, CAIRO 278
SOUVENIRS OF CAIRO 279
HEAD-PIECE 283
PART OF THE TOWN OF CORFU 287
THE PALACE 293
UNIVERSITY OF THE IONIAN ISLANDS 294
SMALL TEMPLE, MEMORIAL TO SIR THOMAS MAITLAND 296
STATUE OF CAPO D'ISTRIA 299
THE TOMB OF MENEKRATES 305
THE ISLET CALLED "THE SHIP OF ULYSSES" 311
VILLAGE OF PELLEKA 315
KING GEORGE OF GREECE 319
QUEEN OLGA OF GREECE 323
"MON REPOS," SUMMER RESIDENCE OF THE KING OF GREECE 327
IN THE GROUNDS OF THE NEW VILLA OF THE EMPRESS OF AUSTRIA 331
ALBANIAN MALE COSTUME 335
ALBANIAN FEMALE COSTUME 339
GALA COSTUME, CORFU 343
OLIVE GROVE, CORFU 351
AT MENTONE
I
"_Kennst du das Land wo die Citronen bluehen?_" --GOETHE
It is of no consequence why or how we came to Mentone. The vast subject of health and health resorts, of balancings between Torquay and Madeira, Algeria and Sicily, and, in a smaller sphere, between Cannes, Nice, Mentone, and San Remo, may as well be left at one side while we happily imitate the Happy-thought Man's trains in Bradshaw, which never "start," but "arrive." We therefore arrived. Our party, formed not by selection, or even by the survival of the fittest (after the ocean and Channel), but simply by chance aggregation, was now composed of Mrs. Trescott and her daughter Janet, Professor Mackenzie, Miss Graves, the two youths Inness and Baker, my niece, and myself, myself being Jane Jefferson, aged fifty, and my niece Margaret Severin, aged twenty-eight.
As I said above, we were an aggregation. The Trescotts had started alone, but had "accumulated" (so Mrs. Trescott informed me) the Professor. The Professor had started alone, and had accumulated the Trescotts. Inness and Baker had started singly, but had first accumulated each other, and then ourselves; while Margaret and I, having accumulated Miss Graves, found ourselves, with her, imbedded in the aggregation, partly by chance and partly by that powerful force propinquity. Arriving at Mentone, our aggregation went unbroken to the Hotel des Anglais, in the East Bay--the East Bay, the Professor said, being warmer than the West: the Professor had been at Mentone before. "The East Bay," he explained, "is warmer because more closely encircled by the mountains, which rise directly behind the house. The West Bay has more level space, and there are several little valleys opening into it, through which currents of air can pass; it is therefore cooler, but only a matter of two or three degrees." It was evening, and our omnibus proceeded at a pace adapted to the "Dead March" from _Saul_ through a street so narrow and walled in that it was like going through catacombs. Only, as Janet remarked, they did not crack whips in the catacombs, and here the atmosphere seemed to be principally cracks. But the Professor brought up the flagellants who might have been there, and they remained up until we reached our destination. We decided that the cracking of whips and the wash of the sea were the especial sounds of Mentone; but the whips ceased at nightfall, and the waves kept on, making a soft murmurous sound which lulled us all to restful slumber. We learned later that all vehicles are obliged, by orders from the town authorities, to proceed at a snail's pace through the narrow street of the "old town," the city treasury not being rich enough to pay for the number of wooden legs and arms which would be required were this rule disregarded.
The next morning when we opened our windows there entered the Mediterranean Sea. It is the bluest water in the world; not a clear cold blue like that of the Swiss lakes, but a soft warm tint like that of June sky, shading off on the horizon, not into darker blue or gray, but into the white of opal and mother-of-pearl. With the sea came in also the sunshine. The sunshine of Mentone is its glory, its riches, its especial endowment. Day follows day, month follows month, without a cloud; the air is pure and dry, fog is unknown. "The sun never stops shining;" and to show that this idea, which soon takes possession of one there, is not without some foundation, it can be stated that the average number of days upon which the sun does shine, as the phrase is, all day long is two hundred and fifty-nine; that is, almost nine months out of the twelve. "All the world is cheered by the sun," writes Shakespeare; and certainly "cheer" is the word that best expresses the effect of the constant sunshine of Mentone.
We all came to breakfast with unclouded foreheads; even the three fixed wrinkles which crossed Mrs. Trescott's brow (she always alluded to them as "midnight oil") were not so deep as usual, and her little countenance looked as though it had been, if not ironed, at least smoothed out by the long sleep in the soft air. She floated into the sunny breakfast-room in an aureola of white lace, with Janet beside her, and followed by Inness and Baker. Margaret and I had entered a moment before with Miss Graves, and presently Professor Mackenzie joined us, radiating intelligence through his shining spectacles to that extent that I immediately prepared myself for the "Indeeds?" "Is it possibles?" "You surprise me," with which I was accustomed to assist him, when, after going all around the circle in vain for an attentive eye, he came at last to mine, which are not beautiful, but always, I trust, friendly to the friendless. Yet so self-deceived is man that I have no doubt but that if at this moment interrogated as to his best listener during that journey and sojourn at Mentone, he would immediately reply, "Miss Trescott."
People were coming in and out of the room while we were there, the light Continental "first breakfast" of rolls and coffee or tea not detaining them long. Two, however, were evidently loitering, under a flimsy pretext of reading the unflimsy London _Times_, in order to have a longer look at Janet; these two were Englishmen. Was Janet, then, beautiful? That is a question hard to answer. She was a slender, graceful girl with a delicate American face, small, well-poised head, sweet voice, quiet manner, and eyes--well, yes, the expression in Janet's eyes was certainly a remarkable endowment. It could never be fixed in colors; it cannot be described in ink; it may perhaps be faintly indicated as each gazing man's ideal promised land. And this centre was surrounded by such a blue and childlike unconsciousness that every new-comer tumbled in immediately, as into a blue lake, and never emerged.
"You have been roaming, Professor," said Mrs. Trescott, as he took his seat; "you have a fine breezy look of the sea. I heard the wa-ash, wa-ash, upon the beach all night. But _you_ have been out early, communing with Aurora. Do not deny it."
The Professor had no idea of denying it. "I have been as far as the West Bay," he said, taking a roll. "Mentone has two bays, the East, where we are, and the West, the two being separated by the port and the 'old town.' Behind us, on the north, extends the double chain of mountains, the first rising almost directly from the sea, the second and higher chain behind, so that the two together form a screen, which completely protects this coast. Thus sheltered, and opening only towards the south, the bays of Mentone are like a conservatory, and _we_ like the plants growing within." (This, for the Professor, was quite poetical.)
"I have often thought that to be a flower in a conservatory would be a happy lot," observed Janet. "One could have of the perfumes, sit still all the time, and never be out in the rain."
"I trust, Miss Trescott, you have not often been exposed to inclement weather?" said the Professor, looking up.
_He_ meant rain; but Mrs. Trescott, who took it upon herself to answer him, always meant metaphor. "Not yet," she answered; "no inclement weather yet for my child, because I have stood between. But the time may come when, _that_ barrier removed--" Here she waved her little claw-like hand, heavy with gems, in a sort of sepulchral suggestiveness, and took refuge in coffee.
The Professor, who supposed the conversation still concerned the weather, said a word or two about the excellent English umbrella he had purchased in London, and then returned to his discourse. "The first mountains behind us," he remarked, "are between three and four thousand feet high; the second chain attains a height of eight and nine thousand feet, and, stretching back, mingles with the Swiss Alps. _Our_ name is Alpes Maritimes; we run along the coast in this direction" (indicating it on the table-cloth with his spoon), "and at Genoa we become the Apennines. The winter climate of Mentone is due, therefore, to its protected situation; cold winds from the north and northeast, coming over these mountains behind us, pass far above our heads, and advance several miles over the sea before they fall into the water. The mistral, too, that scourge of Southern France, that wind, cold, dry, and sharp, bringing with it a yellow haze, is unknown here, kept off by a fortunately placed shoulder of mountain running down into the sea on the west."
"Indeed?" I said, seeing the search for a listener beginning.
"Yes," he replied, starting on anew, encouraged, but, as usual, not noticing from whom the encouragement came--"yes; and the sirocco is even pleasant here, because it comes to us over a wide expanse of water. The characteristics of a Mentone winter are therefore sunshine, protection from the winds, and dryness. It is, in truth, remarkably dry."
"Very," said Inness.
"I have scarcely ever seen it equalled," remarked Baker.
Margaret smiled, but I looked at the two youths reprovingly. Mrs. Trescott said, "Dry? Do you find it so? But you are young, whereas _I_ have reminiscences. _Tears_ are not dry."
They certainly are not; but why she should have alluded to them at that moment, no one but herself knew. There was a mystery about some of Mrs. Trescott's moods which made her society interesting: no one could ever tell what she would say next.
After breakfast we sat awhile in the garden, where there were palm, lemon, and orange trees, high woody bushes of heliotrope, grotesque growth of cactus, and the great gray-blue swords of the century-plant. Before us stretched the sea. Even if we had not known it, we should have felt sure that its waters laved tropical shores somewhere, and that it was the reflection of those far skies which we caught here.
Miss Graves now joined us, with an acquaintance she had discovered, a Mrs. Clary, who had "spent several winters at Mentone," and who adored "every stone of it." This phrase, which no doubt sounded well coming from Mrs. Clary, who was an impulsive person, with fine dark eyes and expressive mobile face, assumed a comical aspect when repeated by the sober voice of Miss Graves. Mrs. Clary, laughing, hastened to explain; and Miss Graves, noticing Mrs. Trescott on a bench in the shade, where she and her laces had floated down, said, warningly, "I should advise you to rise; I have just learned that the shade of Mentone is of the most deadly nature, and to be avoided like a scorpion."
Mrs. Trescott and her laces floated up. "Is it damp?" she asked, alarmed.
"No," replied Miss Graves, "it is not damp. It does not know how to be damp at Mentone. But the shade is deadly, all the same. Now in Florida it was otherwise." And she went into the house to get a white umbrella.
"Matilda's temperament is really Alpine," said Mrs. Clary, smiling. "I have always felt that she would be cold even in heaven."
"In that case," said Baker, "she might try--" But he had the grace to stop.
"What is it about the shade?" I asked.
"Only this," said Mrs. Clary: "as the warmth is due to the heat of the sun, and not to the air, which is cool, there is more difference between the sunshine and shade here than we are accustomed to elsewhere. But surely it is a small thing to remember. The treasure of Mentone is its sunshine: in it, safety; out of it, danger."
"Like Mr. Micawber's income," said Margaret, smiling. "Amount, twenty shillings; you spend nineteen shillings and sixpence--riches; twenty shillings and sixpence--bankruptcy."
A little later we went down to the "old town," as the closely built village of the Middle Ages, clinging to the side hill, and hardly changed in the long lapse of centuries, is called. The "old town" lies between the East Bay and the West Bay, as the body of a bird lies between the two long, slender wings.
"The West Bay has its Promenade du Midi, and the East Bay has its sea-wall," said Mrs. Clary. "I like a sea-wall."
"This one does not _approach_ that at St. Augustine," said Miss Graves.
"Here is one of the fountains or wells," said Mrs. Clary. "You will soon see that going for water and gossiping at the well are two occupations of the women everywhere in this region. It comes, I suppose, from the scarcity of water, which is brought in pipes from long distances to these wells, to which the women must go for all the water needed by their households. Notice the classic shapes of the jugs and jars they bear on their heads. Those green ones might be majolica."
We now turned up a paved ascent, and passing under a broad stone archway, entered the "old town," through whose narrow, lane-like streets no vehicle could be driven, through some of them hardly a donkey. The principal avenue, the Rue Longue, but a few feet in width, was smoothly paved and clean; but walking there was like being at the bottom of a well, so far above and so narrow was the little ribbon of blue sky at the top. Unbroken stone walls rose on each side, directly upon the street, five and six stories in height, shutting out the sunshine; and these tall gray walls were often joined above our heads also by arches, "like uncelebrated bridges of sighs," Janet said. These closely built continuous blocks were the homes of the native population, "old Mentone," unspoiled by progress and strangers. The low doorways showed stone steps ascending somewhere in the darkness, showed low-ceilinged rooms, whose only light was from the door, where were mothers and babies, men mending shoes, women sewing and occupied with household tasks, as calmly as though daylight was not the natural atmosphere of mankind, but rather their own dusky gloom. Outside the doors little black-eyed children sat on the pavement, eating the dark sour bread of the country, and here and there old women in circular white hats like large dinner plates were spinning thread with distaff and spindle. Above were some bits of color: pots of flowers on high window-sills, bright-hued rags hung out to dry, or a dark-eyed girl, with red kerchief tied over her black braids, looking down.
"It is all like a scene from an opera," said Janet.
"Oh no," said Mrs. Clary; "say rather that it is like a scene from the Middle Ages."
"That is what I mean," said Janet. "The scenes in the operas are generally from the Middle Ages."
"The chorus _always_," said Baker.
"It is a pity you cannot see the old mansion of the Princes," said Mrs. Clary. "But I see the street is blockaded just now by the artist."
"By the artist?" said Janet.
"Yes; this one, a Frenchman, is rather broad-shouldered, and when he is at work he blockades the street. However, the mansion is not especially interesting; it was built by one of the later Princes with the stones of the ruined castle above, and has, I believe, only a vaulted hallway and one or two marble pillars. It is now a lodging-house. I saw dancing-dogs going up the stairway yesterday."
From the Rue Longue we had turned into a labyrinth of crooked, staircase-like lanes, winding here and there from side to side, but constantly ascending, the whole net-work, owing to the number of arches thrown across above, seeming to be half underground, but in reality a honey-combed erection clinging to the steep hill-side.
"Dancing-dogs!" said Janet, pausing in the darkest of these turnings. "Let us go back and see them."
But we all exclaimed against this; Mrs. Trescott's little old feet were wearied with curling over the round stones, and Margaret was tired. Inness and Baker offered to make dancing-dogs of themselves for the remainder of the morning, and dogs, too, of a very superior quality, if she would only go on.
The Professor, who, in his "winnowing progress," as Mrs. Trescott called it, had fallen behind, now joined us, followed by Miss Graves.
"I have just witnessed a remarkably interesting little ceremony," he began, "quite mediaeval--a herald, with his trumpet, making an announcement through the streets. I could not comprehend all he said, but no doubt it was something of importance to the community."
"It was," said Miss Graves's monotonous voice. "He was telling them that excellent sausage-meat was now to be obtained at a certain shop for a price much lower than before."
"Ah," said the Professor. Then, rallying, he added, "But the ceremony was the same."
"Certainly," I said, with my usual unappreciated benevolence.
"I wonder what induced these people to build their houses upon such a crag as this, when they had the whole sunny coast to choose from?" said Janet.
The Professor, charmed with this idle little speech (which he took for a thirst for knowledge), hastened by several of us as we walked in single file, in order to be nearer to the questioner.
"You may not be aware, Miss Trescott," he began (she was still in advance, but he hoped to make up the distance), "that this whole shore, called the Riviera--"