Memorials of Shrewsbury being a concise description of the town and its environs, adapted as a general guide for the information of visitors and residents

Part 2

Chapter 23,932 wordsPublic domain

asserted his pretensions to the two ancient principalities of North Wales and Powis, and pursued his claim with undaunted courage, added to a strong resentment for the contumely with which his demands, public and private, had been treated by the successor of the unfortunate Richard, to whom he was a firm and unshaken friend. On the 20th of September, 1400, he boldly caused himself to be proclaimed Prince of Wales, and infested the Marches with a strong body of Welshmen, who maintained a warfare against the governing authorities. In this he was subsequently supported by the Earl of Northumberland, headed by his son, the valiant Henry Percy, surnamed Hotspur, who being assisted by the Earl of Worcester and a numerous force of Scottish troops under the command of Earl Douglas, agreed to meet Glendower at Shrewsbury. Henry, being made acquainted with their movements, hastened with all speed to secure this important town, and arrived here July 21st, 1403, just in time to hoist his banner on the walls, and thereby secure the stability of his crown, having but a few hours’ march of Percy and his advanced guard.

On the morning of the 22d, the memorable BATTLE OF SHREWSBURY commenced; the skirmishing began under the walls of the Castle Gates, but the principal scene of action was about three miles distant, at a place called BATTLEFIELD. The armies on both sides amounted, it is said, to 40,000, and the contest was severe and sanguinary. Fate, however, decided that the efforts of Henry against this powerful faction should be victorious—a faction, which, having contributed to place him on the seat of government, now sought to dethrone him. The king is recorded to have fought with an ardour worthy the crown he was defending, and the spear of his warlike son, the future hero of Agincourt, did wonders. In fact it was one of the most decisive battles recorded in early English history.

Upwards of 2000 nobles, knights, and gentlemen, and 6000 private soldiers, are said to have fallen in the engagement.

Most of the dead bodies were buried on the spot, over whom Henry, in gratitude for his victory, piously erected a college of secular canons to pray for the souls of the slain. The more distinguished were interred in the Dominican and Augustine Friaries of the town.

The gallant Hotspur was discovered among the slain covered with wounds, and dispatched to Shrewsbury, where Henry satiated his revenge by the ignominy of dismembering the lifeless remains, the head and quarters of which were exhibited over the gate at York, and afterwards delivered to his wife for interment. The Earl of Worcester, Sir Richard Vernon, &c. were beheaded.

Shakspeare, in his Henry the Fourth, has given vividness and immortality to this battle, and humourously peopled it with heroes of the most fanciful description.

The Cambrian chieftain, Glendower, with an army of 12,000 men, marched as far as Oswestry, and was by some means unable to arrive in time to join in the action; for had he reached ere the king’s forces were victorious, the result might have terminated very differently for the king and his valiant son. Gough states a tradition, that Glendower proceeded to Shelton, and ascended a lofty oak (the trunk of which is still remaining near the Oswestry road), from whence he might reconnoitre and gain the earliest intelligence of the event of the battle.

The royal blood of this noble Welshman was in no respect chilled by the defeat of his confederates, for in the next year he carried his ravages even to the gates of the Welsh Bridge, destroying much of the suburb of Frankwell and several townships in the vicinity.

In 1460, Edward IV. marched with an army of 23,000 men from this town to the battle of Mortimer’s Cross, and he chose this place for the residence of his queen, where she was delivered of her second and third sons, Richard and George Plantagenet.

On the landing of the Earl of Richmond, afterwards King Henry the Seventh, at Milford Haven, in August, 1485, he determined to march for Shrewsbury. On his arriving at the Welsh Bridge he found the place in a posture of defence, the gates closed against him, and the bailiffs within ready to give their answer. On his demanding admittance as their rightful king, a curious MS. records that the chief bailiff, Thomas Mytton, replied—“He knew no king but Richard, whose bailiffs he and his fellow were, upon which he swore that the earl should not enter there but over his belly.” On this, Richmond returned and passed the night at Forton Heath, where his army was encamped. He, however, succeeded the next morning; and Mr. Mytton, in order to conform with the letter of his oath, laid himself down on the ground, and permitted the earl to step over him, whereupon the portcullis of the bridge was drawn up, and the earl with his retinue were admitted, to the general joy of the inhabitants, notwithstanding it went _against the stomach_ of the “stoute wyse gentilman, Maister Myttoon.”

In Shrewsbury Richmond was first proclaimed king, and raised soldiers, but left the bailiffs to pay them. He lodged in a house on the Wyle Cop (three doors below the Lion Inn), from whence he marched to Bosworth Field, where the engagement took place which deprived Richard III. of his throne and his life.

Henry VII. visited the town in 1490, with his queen, and son (Prince Arthur), and kept the feast of St. George in the collegiate church of St. Chad; they made another visit in 1495, and were sumptuously entertained by the corporation.

At the general dissolution of monasteries, in 1539, it appears to have been the intention of Henry VIII. to form thirteen new bishopricks, {10} one of which was to have been at Shrewsbury. Browne Willis states that John Boucher, Abbot of Leicester, was actually nominated “BISHOP OF SHREWSBURY;”—hence the tradition, as our historians remark, so gratifying to the pride of every true Salopian, that their forefathers had the offer of having their borough converted into a city, but that they preferred inhabiting the FIRST OF TOWNS.

1551. The spring of this year was fatally distinguished by the commencement of a dreadful epidemic in this town, called the “sweating sickness.”

During the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Sir Henry Sidney, President of Wales and Lord Deputy of Ireland, visited this town almost annually, and was always received with the highest respect; his celebrated son, Sir Philip, was educated at our Free Schools. Sir Henry, as Knight of the Garter, kept the feast of St. George here, in 1581, with great splendour. He marched in state from his residence, the Council House, to St. Chad’s Church, the stalls of which were decorated with the arms of the knights, divine service being “sung by note.” On the 1st of May, the four masters of the schools entertained his lordship with a costly banquet, and on the following day three hundred and sixty of the scholars assembled in the “Gay,” several of whom addressed him in speeches. He departed on the 8th, by water, “taking his bardge under the Castle,” when another pageant took place on the island near the Horse Ferry.

Shrewsbury was a favourite retreat for Charles I. during the troublous period of his reign, and he was frequently received by the inhabitants with every feeling of loyalty and attachment. He established a mint here, and kept his court at the Council House. In the year 1642, he drew up his army on a spot afterwards called the “SOLDIER’S PIECE,” and which is now used as a race ground, where he delivered an harangue to them and the chief gentlemen of the county, who had in his time of need rendered him pecuniary assistance and service.

The town was taken by storm in 1644–5, under the command of Colonels Mytton and Bowyer, of the parliamentary army, the inhabitants experiencing all the vicissitudes of a siege, in the plunder of their goods and destruction of property. An attempt was made, in 1654, to surprise it, in favour of the restoration of monarchy, by Sir Thomas Harries, but the scheme, although deeply planned, was frustrated.

James II. in the month of August, 1687, kept his Court at the Council House, and was attended by many of the nobility and gentry of the county, on which occasion, it is said, “the conduits ran with wine,” and other most liberal entertainments and rejoicings welcomed the royal guest. At the same time he graciously received a purse of one hundred guineas, which was presented to him by the munificence of the corporation.

The inhabitants on many occasions have been thus foremost to testify loyalty to their sovereign.

In 1715 their adherence to the House of Hanover was strongly manifested by voluntarily raising a body of horse and foot for the protection of the town, and placing the walls and gates (then entire) in a position of defence.

At the time also apprehensions were entertained of the Pretender and the Scottish invasion in 1745, a regiment of foot was raised here for the service of government; and, subsequently, a militia and cavalry have been embodied.

In the year 1832, the most lively enthusiasm was displayed on the entrance into Shrewsbury of Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Kent and the Princess Victoria, heir presumptive to the British throne.

From the foregoing cursory glance given to the leading events of our ancient history, it may be necessary to remark that it would have been less difficult to the writer could he have extended his observations as to particular occurrences; but the nature of the work being a notice of the _present_ rather than of the _past_ state of the place, brevity of description in this, as in some other portions, will be indispensible.

But the numerous features of historical and antiquarian interest which the town affords, its BRITISH and SAXON state, the destiny of its NORMAN EARLS, its SIEGE BY STEPHEN, the UNION OF WALES to the English Crown, the Formation of Parliaments, the BATTLE OF SHREWSBURY and Fall of Hotspur, the numerous VISITS OF ROYALTY, the Entrance and PROCLAMATION OF HENRY VII. the Commencement of the CIVIL WAR in the Time of Charles I. and Meetings of the COUNCIL OF THE MARCHES OF WALES, while forming constituent parts of our national story, are especially connected with this town, and will be found amply detailed in the valuable History of Shrewsbury published by the late Reverend Messrs. Owen and Blakeway, where everything difficult in civil and ecclesiastical localities is explained in a scientific and masterly manner, and with the greatest discrimination.

THE CASTLE.

“But time * * * Has seen this ruin’d pile complete, Big with the vanity of state.”

DYER.

The civil history of the town being somewhat connected with the Castle, a notice of that edifice will properly occupy this place.

After the Earldom of Shrewsbury had been given by William the Conqueror to Roger de Montgomery, one of his first works was the building of a stately Castle, or, rather, the enlargement of a previous one, which it is certain existed here anterior to the Norman Conquest, on that narrow isthmus where the town is undefended by the river.

This is supposed to have taken place about the year 1070, on a site previously occupied by fifty-one houses, and was a measure of necessity, in order to restrain the hostile incursions of the Welsh, to which the town, from its situation near the borders, was frequently exposed; and having probably received injury from the siege two years previous, and being also limited in size, was inadequate to the dignity of a wealthy earl, who enjoyed the feudal supremacy of nearly the whole of Shropshire.

The Castle, in succession, was possessed by the two sons of the founder, until the reign of Henry I. when it became a royal fortress, under the custody of a constable.

Edward I. introduced a new style of castellated architecture; the stronger portion, therefore, now remaining was probably erected by direction of that monarch, being in the style generally adopted during his reign.

On the union of Wales it was no longer important as a place of defence, and the building began gradually to decay, although in the civil war it was repaired and garrisoned for the king, and afterwards escaped the almost general demolition of royal fortresses by its surrender to the parliamentary army in 1645.

The Castle subsequently reverted to the burgesses, who resigned it to Charles II. and that monarch presented it to Lord Newport. It is now the property of the Duke of Cleveland, and is occupied by J. C. Pelham, Esq. one of the members for the borough.

The present remains have a picturesque effect, and are composed of a deep red stone. They consist of the keep, the walls of the inner court, and the great semi-circular arch of

THE INTERIOR GATEWAY,

from which the last Norman Earl of Shrewsbury issued with the keys of the gates to make submission to Henry I. Although the masonry of the jambs of this noble gateway is singularly irregular, it has, through a period of nearly 800 years, retained its strength unshaken amid the ravages of time and war. It was formerly defended by a portcullis and towers.

The keep consists of two large round towers, embattled and pierced, connected by a square building of about 100 feet in length.

[Picture: Gateway of Castle]

The interior is much altered from its original appearance, and now forms a handsome private residence, modern pointed windows having been placed therein when it was repaired by Sir William Pulteney, about the close of the last century. The drawing room is supposed to have been the guard chamber in the time of Charles I. The castle still retains one mark of its ancient dignity, for in the area of the inner court the knights of the shire are nominated, and when the result of the election is declared, are girt with their swords by the Sheriff. On the north-east side of this court is a postern, built in the time of Charles I.; and the battlements of the western wall have an interior platform, and are curiously pierced with narrow eyelets for the convenience of the cross-bowmen, around which time has wove its ivy mantling.

On the south side within the court is a mount, {16} rising upwards of 100 feet above the bed of the river. The summit is surrounded by a wall, and crowned by a watch tower, which forms a bold and beautiful object. The tower was rebuilt during the repair of the castle, from a design and under the superintendance of the late Thomas Telford, Esq. who was then residing with Sir William Pulteney. In this elevated tower Mr. Telford wrote the beautiful poem to his countryman Burns, and thus alludes to its site near the river Severn:—

No distant Swiss with warmer glow E’er heard his native music flow, Nor could his wishes stronger grow Than still have mine; When up this ancient mount I go With songs of thine.

The sides of the mount are richly planted, and the summit commands a view of unrivalled beauty, with the most extensive amphitheatre of mountains of which perhaps the island can boast, inclosing within its wide sweep an eminently fertile, finely wooded, and beautifully diversified champagne country. ’Tis here that, after the eye has wandered from object to object, from the foreground to the most extreme distance with delight, that the words of _Cowper_ naturally occur, as if written upon such as spot—

“Oh, scene surpassing fable, and yet true!”

It is now difficult to form an adequate idea of the original extent of this fortress; but it is certain that the castle formerly occupied a much larger space than is now marked out by its walls, the ballium (or outer court) extending within the town probably as far as the water-lane. The northern and north eastern sides were defended by a deep ditch or vallum encompassing the base of the bold and natural elevation on which the castle stands, having a communication with the river, but it is now filled up and forms a thoroughfare.

The remains of a duplicate rampart is distinguishable on the western side; and other outworks and towers might have stood near the front of the present county gaol, the Severn being a protection towards the east.

In auncient tyme our elders had desire, To buyld their townes on steepe and stately hill; To shewe that as their hearts did still aspyre, So should their works declare their worthie will.

CHURCHYARD.

THE FEUDAL STATE

of Shrewsbury carries with it associations of imposing importance;—seated upon a hill rising from a noble ambient river, it was thus doubly fortified by nature; while art, with no unsparing hand, had raised an almost impregnable rampart of stone, flanked by many towers and gates. {18}

The imagination will thus readily picture CAER PENGWERN: the woody eminence, with its curiously wrought buildings and domestic mansions ranged in irregular groups, surmounted by lofty spires and embattled turrets, irradiated by the effulgence of the meridian sun, or catching the last smiles of his departing ray,—a commanding castle on the narrow isthmus, with its stately towers and formidable walls, frowning in august pride high above the surrounding plain,—solitary convents, crested with pinnacles and gables, in the verdant meadows on the margin of the rolling stream, over which strongly fortified bridges with massive portcullis and towers, afforded a defence from hostile invaders.

This faint retrospect must kindle in the mind considerations of the progress and fluctuations of science and taste,—the character, condition, and habits of men in these times,—with the works done “in their days and in the old time before them;”—while the contemplation thereof cannot fail of exciting gratitude to the SUPREME GIVER, for the security we _now_ enjoy, without the precaution of barbican and battlements.

PRESENT STATE.

“A lovely spot For all that life can ask! Salubrious! mild! Its hills are green; its woods and prospects fair; Its meadows fertile!”

COTTLE’S ALFRED.

The hold situation of the town, girdled by the health-bearing breezes of a beauteous river, with an eminence crown’d by aspiring temples,

That upward cast their golden vanes, and shine A bright tiara,

gives a striking and majestic appearance to Shrewsbury.

When seen from most parts of the adjacent country the town forms a delightful object,—a gem encircled by a paradise;—new beauties and charming views being continually produced by the pre-eminent spires and towers; whilst the effect in the background is much heightened by an extensive range of noble mountains, which diversify the prospect, and add interest to the rich and picturesque landscape.

The exterior of the town is in most parts separated from the river by a portion of garden and meadow ground, skirted by a line of genteel houses, which command delightful prospects of the adjoining country.

As a place of residence Shrewsbury has long been considered highly eligible, from its elevated and beautiful situation, the salubrity and general healthfulness of its air, the natural dryness of the soil, the agreeable drives and promenades by which it is surrounded, and (what is equally important) the excellence and purity of its water.

Many parts of the environs have been justly recommended as suitable to valetudinarians who may visit Shrewsbury from North Wales and other parts, to avail themselves of the able medical assistance which it possesses, and who are, as it were, enticed by the agreeableness and variety of the scenery to a salutary and necessary exercise.

The interior of the town presents several curious and interesting specimens of the domestic architecture of our ancestors; the projecting bay windows, fanciful antique carving, mouldings, &c. display a singular appearance in contrast with the more modern habitations, in many of which the taste of their respective proprietors is effectively evinced.

The streets, as in most other ancient towns, are irregularly formed, and several of them, it must be admitted, are inconveniently narrow. Many important alterations have however been made, under the provisions of an act obtained in 1821, for removing obstructions, watching, lighting, and the general improvement of the town, the powers of which are vested in trustees, who must be persons occupying property rated at £50 per annum to the street assessment, or worth £2000 above reprizes and resident within the town, or resident and receiving rents to the amount of £80 per annum, or non-resident and receiving rents from premises within the town worth £100 per annum, from whom a committee of management of nine individuals is selected, three of whom retire annually by rotation; and it has been remarked by one of the first members of this committee, “_that if judiciously chosen and faithful to their trust_, _our town may in time assume its due place among the cities of the empire_.”

In 1820 a company was established, with a capital of £8000, raised in 800 shares of £10 each, to supply the town with gas.

POPULATION.

The following official return of the population of the five parishes in Shrewsbury is according to the census ordered by government in 1831:—

Parishes. Houses. Males. Females. Total. St. Chad 1583 3496 4224 7720 St. Mary 1080 3087 3033 6120 St. Alkmond 356 820 958 1778 St. Julian 676 1413 1583 2996 Holy Cross 337 656 821 1477 & St. Giles Total population 20,091

ECCLESIASTICAL BUILDINGS.

The public structures devoted to the service of Religion are among the first objects that excite the attention, whilst by many they are not unfrequently looked upon with peculiar feelings of veneration and regard.

If the source of this feeling were traced, it would be found connected with those principles and associations which every one who acknowledges an all-bountiful Creator, or wishes well to his country, would desire to cherish.

Shrewsbury, we learn, did not receive much improvement from its original inhabitants, the Britons; yet what it lost in nominal consequence as the metropolis of a kingdom it ultimately gained in external splendour and real importance: this is evinced, among other proofs, by the erection of five ecclesiastical foundations, all of which were anterior to the Norman conquest, and originated in Saxon piety.

Among the earliest of these may be mentioned SAINT CHAD’S, which is ascribed to one of the Mercian kings, who is said to have converted the palace of the kings of Powis into a church, about 780.

A dean and ten prebendaries or secular canons, with two vicars choral, under the patronage of the Bishop of Lichfield, are stated to have been placed here at a very remote period.

Under the Anglo-Saxon monarchs this college possessed twelve hides of arable land, or as much as paid for 1440 acres to what would be now called the land-tax; which, by proper cultivation, appears from the Survey of Domesday to have increased more than double. Other estates were subsequently added, which form now only insulated districts of the parish.

By the act of 1 Edward VI. 1547, the College was dissolved, the tythes and profits at that time being of the clear yearly value of about £50. The buildings and estates were leased out, reserving only the small stipend of £4. 6s. 8d. for the parish minister, charged on the dean’s prebendal estate at Onslow.

Although a lease was granted of the tythes, yet only two years afterwards the greater portion of them were appropriated by Edward VI. in aid of the Free Grammar School.