Part 12

which, before its alteration and brick casing in 1795, was considered a most curious specimen of the unembattled town mansion, erected (it is conjectured) about the middle of the fourteenth century by Sir Hamo Vaughan, whose daughter Eleanor married Reginald de Mutton. By this alliance the house came into the possession of the Myttons of Halston, several of whom represented this town in parliament; but little of its original state now appears. The hall is approached from a passage near the Corn-market by a flight of steps, and displays a deeply-recessed pointed arch; a similar one is seen from the College-hill entrance. One portion of the building forms the WATCH ROOM and POLICE STATION of the town, and some of the spacious vaults beneath are used as a temporary receptacle for midnight disorderlies.

Nearly adjoining, in the street leading to the Corn-market, is the TALBOT HOTEL, where the Duchess of Kent and the Princess Victoria alighted on their visit to this town in 1832, on which occasion the mayor and corporation waited upon them with a congratulatory address.

LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS.

SHROPSHIRE AND NORTH WALES NATURAL HISTORY AND ANTIQUARIAN SOCIETY.

At a meeting held at Shrewsbury on the 26th of June, 1835, it was resolved to establish a Natural History Society for the county of Salop and North Wales, and to found a central museum and scientific library.

In order to secure the perpetuity of the institution, and to guard against the possible dispersion of the museum at any future period, the property of the society is vested in the lords lieutenant of the county of Salop, and of the several counties of North Wales, as trustees, for the permanent use and benefit of the district at large.

The museum is principally designed to illustrate the Natural History of the district, in its various branches of geology, mineralogy, zoology, and botany, by the gradual formation of complete and systematic arrangements of its productions, in each of these departments. It is also open to other objects of scientific interest, and in particular is a suitable repository for such remains of antiquity as are found within the district, or illustrate its general history. But, in addition to these more local objects, the museum will, it is anticipated, through the liberality of the friends of science in various quarters, be enriched with many specimens from distant places.

The library consists of Books illustrative of Natural History and Antiquities, and such works of reference as the funds of the society may admit of being purchased, for the illustration of the objects in the museum. The library, as well as the museum, is open to donations from the members and friends of the institution.

The society’s affairs are under the management of a council, consisting of a president and other officers, elected annually.

A house situated in Dogpole is at present the temporary repository for the collections of the Museum, &c.

THE SUBSCRIPTION LIBRARY

Is on St. John’s Hill, and contains an excellent collection of books in the various departments of literature and science. Its affairs are confided to a committee. Proprietary members pay two guineas admission, and an annual subscription of one guinea and a half; and strangers, on the introduction of a subscriber, have the privilege of consulting any of the books during library hours.

THE NEW CHORAL SOCIETY

Has for its design the cultivation of the delightful science of sacred music, and was revived in 1834. It is under the management of a secretary and committee, and is supported by a respectable number of honorary members.

THE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY

was engrafted (in the year 1834) on a florists’ society planted in this town in 1823. Its object is to promote the culture of the auricula, polyanthus, pink, ranunculus, carnation, picotee, dahlia, gooseberry, &c.

MECHANICS’ INSTITUTION.

This institution commenced in 1825, and in the year 1833 a building was erected for their meetings in Howard-street, Castle-foregate. The expences of the establishment are defrayed by subscriptions and donations.

NEWSPAPERS.

Two weekly newspapers are published here: viz. _Wednesday_, THE SALOPIAN JOURNAL, by Mr. John Eddowes, Corn-market. _Friday_, THE SHREWSBURY CHRONICLE, by Mr. John Watton, St. John’s-hill.

WALK WITHOUT THE WALLS.

“Scenes must be beautiful which daily view’d Please daily, and whose novelty survives Long knowledge and the scrutiny of years. Praise justly due to those I now describe.”

SHREWSBURY QUARRY.

On the south-western side of the town is one of the most celebrated promenades in the kingdom, called The Quarry.

It is formed in a tract of verdant meadow ground of twenty-three acres, gradually sloping to the river Severn, along the banks of which are planted a graceful avenue of lime trees, extending 540 yards in length, whose lofty arching branches entwine themselves so as to resemble the long aisle of some religious fane.

Three other walks, planted in a similar manner, serve as approaches from the town to this the principal promenade, which being enlivened with many pleasing views, renders it in point of situation and beauty unrivalled.

Here the inhabitant may inhale the refreshing breeze wafted from the rippling river,—the invalid find a cool and sequestered retreat free from the noise of a bustling town,—while the mind alive to the charms of nature may enjoy its philosophic contemplations in the ever-changing beauties of the seasons.

A cluster of horse-chesnut and other trees growing in a dingle, and which in autumn present a beautifully variegated mass of foliage, diversify what otherwise might be considered a formal arrangement of these walks, which were planted during the mayoralty of Henry Jenks, Esq. in 1719, and derive their name from a red sandstone which was formerly procured from this dingle.

On the opposite side of the meandering river is a verdant eminence fringed with luxuriant plantations.

At the north-western end of the Quarry, near Claremont, is a sloping bank, which originally formed an amphitheatre, called the “Dry Dingle,” where religious mysteries (or miracle plays) were celebrated. Prince Arthur, in 1494, attended one of these exhibitions, which were performed on this spot, even after the Reformation, by the head-schoolmaster, Mr. Ashton, and his pupils.

Crossing the ferry, at the extremity of the walk leading from the remains of this amphitheatre, and pursuing the footpath in the field to the left of the Boat-house, we reach an eminence from whence a prospect opens to the view combining water, hill, plain, and wood in charming variety. Continuing from hence to the right of the House of Industry, we arrive at

KINGSLAND,

or, as written in an early Norman grant, _Chingsland_. This is an extensive piece of land, belonging to the ancient burgesses of Shrewsbury, thirty of whom in rotation annually receive four shillings and sixpence from its produce, in lieu of a “turn for their kine.” On this place the festival of Shrewsbury Show (described page 109) is held, and it commands a prospect which stretches to a considerable distance over a beautiful and well-cultivated country, diversified with mountains possessing form and interest.

Returning to the front of the House of Industry, and pursuing the path from the bank on which that building stands, we cross the Severn by means of the ferry at the Can Office, and enter the pastures called “_Stury’s Close_” where the Earl of Pembroke, Lord President of the Marches, “mustered all the country, both of horsemen and footmen,” in 1588 (a year memorable for the defeat of the Invincible Armada), and soon reach

THE GREY OR FRANCISCAN FRIARY.

[Picture: The Grey or Franciscan Friary]

The remnant illustrated by the wood cut comprises probably the refectory, which was partly re-edificed as late as the reign of Henry the Eighth.

This religious society, sometimes called Friars Minors, settled in this town early in the thirteenth century. Hawis, wife to Charleton Lord of Powys (born in 1291), and heir of the ancient Princes of Powys Gwenwynwyn, was a great benefactress to this friary, if not its second foundress.

From the quantity of bones which have been found within the precinct of this convent, it would seem that no unprofitable use was made of the privilege granted to this order by the Pope of “_liberam sepulturam_.” This and their reputed sanctity, as well as the popular belief that whoever was buried in their cemetery or in the habit of a grey friar would be secure from the attacks of evil spirits and find an easy entrance into heaven, were circumstances doubtless of such importance as to induce many persons to desire sepulture among such hallowed men.

The splendid stained glass now in the eastern window of St. Mary’s chancel is supposed to have originally decorated the church of this friary, which was the burial place of the Lords of Powys.

On the opposite side of the river is the foundry and the suburb of Coleham.

Passing under the arch of the English Bridge, to the left are some modern dwellings on the site of a curious half-timbered mansion erected in the reign of Elizabeth by William Jones, an alderman and opulent draper of the town, and father of Thomas Jones, the first mayor of Shrewsbury. A view and description of this curious building, communicated by the author of these pages, will be found in vol. 99, part ii. of the Gentleman’s Magazine.

A few yards beyond stood

THE DOMINICAN FRIARY,

which comprehended nearly the whole space now occupied by gardens between the bridge and the water gate. {176}

This order of mendicants took their name from their founder, and were sometimes called “Preachers” from their office, and “Black Friars” from their dress.

The convent, like those of the Austin and Franciscan friars, was placed on the margin of the river, outside the walls and adjacent to the bridges.

From the rich architectural remains, &c. which have occasionally been dug up here, the church must have been a spacious and elegant building; but, in common with the other convents, it shared the fate of the dissolution of monasteries, and was sold by Henry the Eighth in 1543. The hand of man, combined with the operations of time, had, previously to 1823, left but few vestiges either of the convent where Richard and George Plantagenet, two sons of Edward the Fourth, were born, or the more recent fortifications erected on this interesting spot,—where several military transactions were determined in various periods of our domestic history.

The bank on which this friary stood was levelled in the above-mentioned year, when the foundations of several walls were cleared to a considerable extent, and numerous capitals, pieces of mullions, with remains of stained glass, enamelled tiles, &c. were discovered by the workmen employed in the construction of a new building and wharf. Several stone graves were also brought to view, the masonry of which was well finished, and formed so as nearly to fit the corpse. After clearing the soil from these tombs, skeletons were found encased in red sand, but without the least trace of any thing in which the body might have been enveloped. The only remains of this once noble pile are the materials used in the construction of a stable and the wall surrounding the gardens. Adjoining is

THE WATER-LANE GATE,

[Picture: The Waterlane Gateway]

Through which the parliamentary army entered, Feb. 22d, 1644–5, and captured the town. The means by which this was accomplished showed much generalship and secrecy on the part of the Parliamentarians. It appears a detachment of soldiers belonging to that party left Wem, and marched under the shadow of night to the extremity of the Castle-foregate, where the troopers halted at four o’clock in the morning, in order that the foot soldiers might effect an entrance by stratagem. The infantry turned off on the left to the river, being led by a puritanical minister of the town, named Huson, a kinsman of the celebrated John Huson, who from a cobbler rose to be a colonel and a member of the Barebones parliament.

The dismounted troopers were under the command of Benbow, who, being a native of Shrewsbury, was aware of the part most easily attacked. From the end of Castle-foregate they advanced through the fields to the castle ditch (now a thoroughfare), which was defended on the town side by strong palisading and a breastwork of earth. A boat on the river contained several carpenters and other persons, who commenced sawing down the paling near the river to effect a passage for the soldiers. This was soon accomplished, and by assisting one another over the ditch the breastwork was gained. Having succeeded thus far, they seem to have divided themselves into two divisions; the one party, headed by Benbow, scaled the wall on the eminence between the Watch Tower and the Council House, by means of light ladders. The main body, consisting of 350 men, entered by the gate shewn in the engraving, to which a tower and outwork was formerly attached. This, and a similar fort about the middle of the lane where the town wall crossed, yielded without resistance by the connivance of careless and treacherous sentinels, who are supposed to have been intoxicated and privy to the design. The party who had scaled the wall hastened to procure an entrance at the north or castle gate, which was soon done, and having let down the draw-bridge, the horse, with Colonels Mytton and Bowyer at their head, made the best of their way to the main court of guard held in the Market-place, where they found their comrades engaged with the royalists. The loss on both sides was inconsiderable, amounting to only seven men and one captain. The castle surrendered about noon, when the garrison was immediately marched off to Ludlow, with the exception of thirteen poor Irishmen, who, being left to the tender mercies of the parliamentary leaders, were hanged the same day without trial.

Continuing the walk by the side of the river, the most prominent object is the tower on the castle mount, from whose lofty height a group of majestic trees decline to the banks of the Severn, which in this part bends gracefully over its gravelly bed. The pathway brings us to the island where a pageant took place in honour of Sir Henry Sidney (noticed page 11). A little beyond, on the opposite side of the river, is the ferry for conveying horses across by which barges are towed up the stream. {179} The meadows into which we have passed comprised a portion of the ancient Derfald, or enclosure for the keeping of deer,—in other words a park, which may not inaptly be called

SHREWSBURY PARK,

for it belonged to our first Norman earl, and in all probability to some of the Saxon monarchs. The situation of the ground, before it was stripped of its timber, possessed every advantage of pasture, water, and diversified surface.—According to the record of Domesday, it was the custom, when the king resided here, for twelve of the better sort of citizens to keep watch over him; and when he went out hunting, those having horses protected him. This practice probably arose in consequence of the murder of Alfhelm (an earl of the blood royal) in 1016, who, having been invited here and hospitably entertained by Ædric Streona (son-in-law to King Etheldred), was barbarously assassinated by a butcher while hunting, whom the perfidious Ædric had engaged for that purpose.

The boundaries of these pleasant fields bring us to the Shrewsbury canal, which for some distance beyond passes above the banks of the river; while from the canal towing-path numerous pleasing views may be obtained, affording an agreeable half-hour’s walk to the picturesque village of Uffington.

Retracing our steps along the green banks of the Severn, we arrive at a gentle ascent which leads to the promenade surrounding the prison. From hence the long ridge of Haughmond Hill, linked as it were to the noble Wrekin,—the stately character of the White Hall,—the patriotic Column in honour of Lord Hill,—the venerable Abbey Church, standing like a patriarch among its more modern compeers,—the Stretton Hills in the distance, and close at hand the frowning walls of the Castle, clad by nature’s hand with stains of sober hue, combine to attract the eye and the mind.

On a line with the front of the County Prison is

HOWARD-STREET,

having at the top a fine colossal figure of Hercules, which was cast at Rome from the Farnese Hercules, and is no inapt memorial of the labour consequent upon the removal of upwards of 26,000 loads of soil in the formation of the street.

Passing to the DANA WALK, “where the huge castle hold its state,” the prospect is bounded to the right by the eminences of Hawkstone, Grinshill, Pimhill, Almond Park, and the plain of “Battlefield.” Westward is Berwick House, embosomed in sylvan beauty, and beyond in the horizon are a range of Cambrian mountains, gradually fading into the clouds, which in point of colour they not unfrequently resemble. Among these may be particularly distinguished those gigantic landmarks between England and Wales,—the Breidden and Moelygolfa hills. The former rises to the height of 1000 feet, and has on the summit a pillar erected to commemorate the great victory obtained by Admiral Rodney over the French fleet in the West Indies, 1782.

By a modern archway opened through the wall abutting from the Castle at the time this walk was formed, in 1790, we are again brought within the walls. This part, however, of

THE TOWN WALLS

extended in a line with the Castle Gates across the isthmus down to the banks of the river, having a corresponding barrier on the other side of the castle. It was erected by Robert de Belesme, third Norman Earl of Shrewsbury, under the idea that his father’s fortifications were not of sufficient strength to withstand a siege from the forces of Henry I. which in 1102 marched against him (page 14).

An additional rampart called Roushill, enclosing the space between the wall of Earl Robert and the Welsh bridge, was added during the Commonwealth. These walls for many years served as a communication between the northern and western parts of the town; but in 1835 the more modern portion was nearly buried in the formation of a new road.

RECREATIVE.

THE THEATRE.

[Picture: The New Theatre]

WHEN man is contemplated in the character of a being, who can be successfully addressed by an appeal to the passions and the understanding, the Drama, under proper restrictions, may be rendered serviceable.

I have heard That guilty creatures, sitting at a play, Have, by the very cunning of the scene, Been struck so to the soul, that presently They have proclaim’d their malefactions.

SHAKSPEARE.

The old building used for the purpose of dramatic performance in this town, is said to have formed part of a royal dwelling of the Princes of Powys Land. Having long been ruinous, it was purchased by Mr. Bennett, the manager, and taken down in 1833. The erection of the present theatre on its site has been an important improvement to the thoroughfare leading to St. John’s Hill and the Quarry, as well as an ornament to the town. It forms a centre and two wings; the lower part consists of a rusticated base, upwards of 100 feet in length, fitted up as shops, with a house for the manager. Above is a continued string-course, from which rises two pilasters in each wing, supporting a frieze and cornice.

The windows are finished with architraves, and the front of the building displays three niches, containing statues of the immortal bard SHAKSPEARE and of the COMIC and TRAGIC MUSE, executed in compos by Mr. James Parry, a native of this town.

The interior of the theatre is conveniently arranged: in the centre is a dome, and the ceiling richly decorated with appropriate devices. The building is creditable to the taste of Mr. Bennett, whose spirited undertaking in this public improvement will no doubt be appreciated by the lovers of the drama. The new structure was opened Sept. 8th, 1834, under the patronage of the Mayor.

THE CIRCUS

is a large brick building near the Welsh bridge, in which equestrian performances occasionally take place. It is used on fair days as a butter and cheese market.

THE HORSE RACES

are annually held in the third week of September, and continue for three days. They are generally attended by the rank and fashion of the county, and attract a considerable influx of visitors to the town. The king contributes a plate of one hundred guineas.

THE ASSEMBLY ROOM

was erected in 1777, at the back of the Lion Hotel, and is a commodious and tastefully decorated apartment, where most of the balls are held.

THE SHREWSBURY HUNT

takes place about the middle of November, and brings to the town a respectable number of the nobility and gentry of the county, who pass a week with a president annually chosen from the members, while a fashionable ball gives additional hilarity to the meeting.

ANGLING.

The Severn has long been celebrated for the excellency of its fish—salmon, pike, grayling, trout, perch, and many others. The votaries of the “Gentle Craft,” if not always gratified with excellent sport, or the finny tribe should sometimes not be disposed “to bite,” may find pleasure in the contemplation of the scenery around.

It must however be mentioned, and with regret, that the fishing of the river near the town has of late years been almost ruined by the daring excess of poaching with illegal nets, so as to threaten, as it were, the annihilation of the piscatory race, unless the laws are put in force for their defence. Some of the lesser streams near the town, however, afford a tolerable supply of good trout.

AQUATIC EXCURSIONS.

Much pleasant exercise and amusement is afforded on the Severn during the summer months. Several parties possess boats, and an emulation of skill is frequently excited among the more experienced rowers.

An annual gala is generally given by the young gentlemen of Shrewsbury School in the month of June.

Boats may be hired for the day at a moderate charge, and pic-nic parties take an excursion up the river to the picturesque and woody banks at Shelton, the shady groves near Berwick and the Isle, or downwards to the rural villages of Uffington, Atcham, &c. On a summer’s evening, when all is calm and serene, the sail is truly delightful.

THE SUBURBS OF SHREWSBURY

comprise five separate districts, viz. Coton Hill, Castle Foregate, Frankwell, Abbey Foregate, and Coleham, containing a population equal to that within the walls.

In noticing these, it is purposed to commence where our walk terminated without the walls, viz. the Castle Gates, from whence the Castle Foregate and Coton Hill diverge. Taking the latter thoroughfare, to the left we enter Chester Street, into which a new line of road is opened, communicating with Mardol, and carried over the ancient fosse and through a portion of the wall erected by Robert de Belesme. A few yards further are

THE WATER WORKS,

which supply every house in the remotest part of the town with water for domestic purposes, being raised from the river by means of a steam engine, capable of throwing up 22,000 gallons in the hour. The Company was established under an act of parliament in 1830. {186}

Nearly opposite are

THE ROYAL BATHS,

[Picture: The Royal Baths, Coton-hill]

affording conveniences equal to any which are to be found in the first-rate establishments of this kind in the kingdom, while the moderate terms and strict attention to cleanliness and comfort will, no doubt, ensure to them the patronage and support of the public. Hot air, vapour, shower, warm, salt, medicated, and fresh water baths are in constant readiness, and the pleasure bath is of sufficient dimensions to enable persons to learn the art of swimming.