Part 1

Transcribed from the 1837 John Eddowes edition by David Price, email [email protected]

[Picture: Book cover]

MEMORIALS OF SHREWSBURY:

BEING A

CONCISE DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN

AND ITS ENVIRONS,

Adapted as

A General Guide

FOR THE

INFORMATION OF VISITORS AND RESIDENTS.

BY

HENRY PIDGEON.

ILLUSTRATED WITH THIRTY-SIX ENGRAVINGS.

* * * * *

“FLOREAT SALOPIA.”

* * * * *

Shrewsbury: PRINTED BY JOHN EDDOWES, CORN-MARKET.

1837.

TO THE

Rev. William Gorsuch Rowland, M.A.

MINISTER AND OFFICIAL OF THE ROYAL PECULIAR OF ST. MARY’S, SHREWSBURY, AND PREBENDARY OF LICHFIELD,

AS A HUMBLE BUT SINCERE TESTIMONY OF RESPECT, FOR HIS ZEALOUS AND MUNIFICENT EXERTIONS IN RESTORING AND HEIGHTENING THE BEAUTIES AND ARCHITECTURE OF SEVERAL OF THE CHURCHES IN THIS TOWN, AND FOR HIS UNWEARIED ATTENTION TO MANY OF OUR PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS,

The Memorials of Shrewsbury

ARE VERY RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED,

BY HIS OBEDIENT SERVANT,

_HENRY PIDGEON_.

PREFACE.

A little Manual adapted to assist the enquiring stranger in his perambulation around Shrewsbury having been long required, an ardent attachment to his native place, and compliance with the wishes of many friends whose opinions demand respect, are circumstances that have induced the present writer to undertake the task, in which he has been materially assisted by the possession of several volumes of SALOPIAN ANNALS, or memoranda of all the principal events that have occurred in the town for several past years, the collection whereof has afforded him a pleasing recreation in those scraps of time snatched from active professional avocations—periods wherein every one has his favourite pursuit, and in which any individual may, by prudently employing them for his own pleasure, not unfrequently render himself useful to others.

It may be further stated that the present design is purely patriotic; and whilst no expence has been spared in the numerous embellishments, candour and truth (combined with accuracy and conciseness) have been carefully observed throughout a more extensive field of local information and graphical illustration than has heretofore been cultivated in any previous work adapted as a Guide through the Metropolis of Shropshire,—many subjects being now classified and brought under general notice for the first time.

The Author would therefore hope that the MEMORIALS OF SHREWSBURY will be found to afford a comprehensive and faithful illustration to the stranger of whatever may be important in this ancient and beautifully situated town, as well as useful and deserving the confidence of his fellow-townsmen in particular, to whom he offers them (to use the words of our great lexicographer) “in the spirit of a man that has endeavoured well,” and with the utmost sincerity for the best interests of his native place.

H. P.

_High-street_, 1836.

ILLUSTRATIONS,

FROM DRAWINGS MADE EXPRESSLY FOR THIS WORK.

PAGE. 1. Vignette View of Shrewsbury — 2. Gateway of Castle 15 3. Remains of Old St. Chad’s Church 28 4. New St. Chad’s Church 33 5. St. Mary’s Church, N.W. 38 6. Monument to Rev. J. B. Blakeway, and North 49 Transept 7. St. Julian’s and St. Alkmond’s Churches 59 8. The Abbey Church 67 9. St. Giles’s Church, N.W. 78 10. — Interior View 81 11. St. Michael’s Church, Castle-foregate 85 12. St. George’s Church, Frankwell 88 13. Trinity Church, Coleham 92 14. Royal Free Grammar School 99 15. Town Arms 105 16. The County Hall 112 17. Market House 117 18. Lord Hill’s Column 122 19. Howard-street Butter and Cheese Market 129 20. The Infirmary 131 21. Drapers’ Almshouses 138 23. Shearmen’s Hall 150 23. The Old Tower 153 24. Initial Letter of a Charter from Edw. III. to the 154 Austin’s Friars 25. The Welsh Bridge 156 26. Portal of Rowley’s Mansion 158 27. Gateway of Council House 161 28. Drapers’ Hall, Interior View 164 29. Ancient Timber House 167 30. The Grey or Franciscan Friary 174 31. The Waterlane Gateway 177 32. The New Theatre 182 33. The Royal Baths, Coton-hill 186 34. Stone Pulpit 194 35. The White Hall Mansion 198 36. Battlefield Church 209

CONTENTS.

Shrewsbury—Situation; foundation; etymology. ANCIENT HISTORY. State under the Britons; Stephen besieges the Castle; town 13 taken by Llewelyn; Royal visits; Supreme Courts of Justice; the Great Parliament; Battle of Shrewsbury; Owen Glendower; Birth of Richard and George Plantagenet; Proclamation of Henry VII.; Tradition of the phrase “Proud Salopians;” Pageant in honour of Sir Henry Sidney; Council House the residence of King Charles I.; King James II.; Loyally of the Inhabitants; Visit of their Royal Highnesses the Duchess of Kent and Princess Victoria. THE CASTLE AND FEUDAL STATE. Foundation and early account of the Fortress; Interior 18 Gateway; General Description; Watch Tower; Prospect from the Castle Mount; Gates and Towers; Feudal Picture of the Town. PRESENT STATE OF THE TOWN. Distant appearance; salubrity; Domestic architecture; Act 21 for Improving Streets; Gas Company; Population, &c. ECCLESIASTICAL BUILDINGS. Prefatory observations; Saxon foundations, lands, 96 possessions, &c.; cursory notice of the Conventual Churches, Ancient Chapels, Chantries, and appropriate decoration of the Sacred Buildings.

OLD ST. CHAD’S CHURCH.—Fall and account of the ancient edifice, dawning light of the Reformation, first exercise of the Protestant Religion, Bishop’s chancel, present remains of the fabric.

NEW ST. CHAD’S.—Site, architectural description, chancel window, monuments, bells, lecture, &c.

ST. MARY’S.—Interesting variety of the architecture, south portal, noble effect of the interior, genealogical window of stained glass, stone organ screen, biographical notice of the Rev. J. B. Blakeway, transepts, curious font, chantry chapels, monuments, bells, flight from the spire, &c.

ST. ALKMOND’S.—Demolition of the ancient church, modern edifice, eastern window, elegance of spire, first mayor of Shrewsbury, &c.

ST. JULIAN’S.—Present fabric, stained glass, monument to Archdeacon Owen, &c. free lecture.

ST. MICHAEL’S PARISH WITHIN THE CASTLE.—Ancient history and trial respecting, parochial limit, etymology of Derfald.

THE ABBEY CHURCH.—General description, fine west window, north portal, solemnity of the interior, armorial bearings and figures in stained glass, organ screen, font, ancient cumbent effigies, altar tombs and monuments, old painting of the Crucifixion.

ST. GILES’S CHURCH.—Antiquity of the structure, primitive appearance of the interior, stained glass, sepulchral stones, reflections and prospect from the cemetery.

ST. MICHAEL’S CHURCH.—Western view, consecration, stained glass, &c.

ST. GEORGE’S CHURCH.—Consecration, interior decoration, old hospital, free chapel.

TRINITY CHURCH.—Foundation and description.

RELIGIOUS HOUSES.—Chapel of St. Mary Magdalene, Spel-cross.

DISSENTING MEETING HOUSES.—Roman Catholic Chapel. ROYAL FREE GRAMMAR SCHOOL. Endowment, its state and pre-eminence, present to Dr. Butler 104 from his pupils, appointment of Dr. Kennedy, annual prizes, royal visits, school buildings, chapel, library, exhibitions, &c. LOCAL GOVERNMENT, CHARTERS, &c. Municipal Body; Ancient Seal; Sessions; Courts of Record and 111 Request; Members of Parliament; Trading Companies; Merchant Guild; Pageant of Shrewsbury Show. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. County Hall, Courts of Justice, Guild Hall and Exchequer, 130 Market House and Statue of Richard Duke of York, Old Welsh Bridge, Old East or Stone Bridge, English Bridge, Lord Hill’s Column and fine panoramic prospect, Town and County Gaol, Poultry Market, Butter and Cheese Markets. CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. Introduction; the Salop Infirmary, Eye and Ear Dispensary, 143 St. Giles’s Hospital, St. John’s Hospital, Drapers’ Almshouses, St. Chad’s Almshouses, House of Industry, Humane Society; the Prison, Parochial, and Town Charities. CHARITY SCHOOLS. Bowdler’s or the Blue, Millington’s, Allatt’s, Public 147 Subscription, Lancasterian, St. Mary’s and St. Michael’s, St. Chad’s Ladies’, Infant, and Sunday Schools. WALK WITHIN THE WALLS. Introduction; Market Square, Mercers’ Hall, the Sextry, 169 Shearmen’s Hall, Maypole Festivities, Occupation of Shearmen, Wyle Cop, Residence of the early British Settlers and the Saxons, Lion Hotel, Beeches Lane, Town Walls, the Crescent, Ancient Tower, St. John’s Hill, the Austin Friars, Initial Letter of a Charter from Edward III. the Welsh Bridge, Quays and Warehouses, Mardol, Rowley’s Mansion, Hill’s Lane, ancient Houses, the Bell Stone, Shutt Place, Shoplatch, the Stalls, Ireland’s Mansion, Pride Hill, the High Cross, Castle Street, St. Nicholas’s Chapel, the Council House, Court of the Marches of Wales, Loyalty of Thomas Lyster, Esq. Farquhar’s Recruiting Officer, Character of Salopians, the Drapers’ Hall, Dogpole, Church Street, Jones’s Mansion, view of an ancient timber House, Butcher Row, Fish Street, Belmont, Judges’ House, ancient College of St. Chad, Vaughan’s Place, Talbot Hotel. LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS. Natural History and Antiquarian Society, Subscription 171 Library, Choral Society, Horticultural Society, Mechanics’ Institution, Newspapers. WALK WITHOUT THE WALLS. Shrewsbury Quarry, Remains of Amphitheatre, Kingsland, 181 Stury’s Close, Grey or Franciscan Friary, Site of Alderman Jones’s Mansion, Dominican Friary, ancient Vineyard, the Water Gate, account of the Entrance of the Parliamentary Army, River-side Walk, Derfald, Shrewsbury Park, Murder of Prince Alfhelm, Canal, Prospect from the Gaol Terrace, Howard-street, Colossal Figure of Hercules, Dana Walk, Breidden Hills, the Town Walls. RECREATIVE. The Drama, Theatre, Circus, Horse Races, Assembly Room, 185 Salop Hunt, Angling, Aquatic Excursions. THE SUBURBS—COTON HILL. Water Works, Spring Water, the Royal Baths, Birth-place of 189 Admiral Benbow, Coton Hill, Site of St. Catharine’s Chapel, Berwick, Ancient Course of the Severn, View from Cross Hill. CASTLE FOREGATE. Linen Factory, Canal (communicating with London, Liverpool, 180 &c), Coal Wharf. SUBURB OF FRANKWELL. Ancient Domestic Habitations, the Mount Fortification, Site 192 of Cadogan Chapel and Cross, Monk’s Eye, Township of Shelton, Glendower’s Oak. THE ABBEY FOREGATE. Merivale, Monastic Remains, Ancient Stone Pulpit, Monks’ 201 Infirmary, Guest Hall or Hospitium, Site of Chapter House, Earliest authorized Assembly of British Parliament, the New Road, Reflections suggested by its formation, Abbey Precinct, Destructive Fire, the White Hall, Race-ground, Lord Hill’s Column, Sutton Spa, Analysis of the Water, Anglo-Norman Church. SUBURB OF COLEHAM. Situation; Iron Foundry, notice of the Menai Bridge. 201 TRADE AND MANUFACTURES. Welsh Webs and Flannel, Communication between London and 207 Dublin, Railway, Thread and Linen Yarns, Malting Business, Restoration and Perfection of the ancient art of Glass-staining, Shrewsbury Cakes, Brawn, eulogy of the Ale, Markets, Fairs, and Navigation of the Severn. THE ENVIRONS. Variety of landscape scenery; Battlefield Church, Grinshill, 225 Hawkstone, Haughmond Abbey, Haughmond Hill, Village of Uffington, Albrighton, Albright Hussey, Meole, Ancient Encampment at Bayston, Condover, Pitchford, Acton Burnell, Atcham, Longner, Attingham, Wroxeter (the Roman Uriconium), The Wrekin.

[Picture: Vignette View of Shrewsbury]

Admir’d SALOPIA! that with venial pride Eyes her bright form in Severn’s ambient wave; Fam’d for her loyal cares in perils tried; Her daughters lovely and her striplings brave.

SHENSTONE.

SITUATION.

“A precious stone set in silver.”

SHAKSPEARE.

THE Town of SHREWSBURY stands nearly in the centre of the county of which it is the capital; it is situated on two gentle declivities, and is formed by the river Severn into a peninsula, somewhat in the shape of a horse-shoe, having an isthmus not more than three hundred yards across.

A variety of opinions have prevailed as to who made choice of the commanding situation and natural retreat which the town affords, as well as to the period of its foundation.

It has been stated to be of far prior date than the ancient Uriconium (the present Wroxeter), from the circumstances that it was the custom of the Romans to throw up stations, and to make roads parallel or adjacent to British camps. One thing however is certain, that no vestige of that imperial people has been discovered within its precinct.

The truth is conceived to be, that Shrewsbury was occupied or built some time in the fifth century, after the destruction of the Roman Uriconium, as a place where the fugitive Britons might find an asylum from the devastations of their Saxon invaders.

ETYMOLOGY.

The Britons gave the place the appellation of _Pengwern_, the Saxons _Scrobbes-byrig_; both are synonymous, importing a fenced eminence covered with shrubs. The ancient Welsh called it, and do so to this day, _Ammwythig_, signifying “The Delight.” The Normans _Sciropesberie_, and subsequently _Salopesberie_ and _Schrosbury_, from whence is formed its present name Shrewsbury and Salop. The antiquary Leland thus beautifully accounts for its name:

Edita Pengwerni late fastigia splendent, Urbs sita lunato veluti mediamnis in orbe, Colle tumet modico; duplici quoque ponte superbit: Accipiens patria sibi lingua nomen ab alnis.

which may be thus translated—

Built on a hill, fair SALOP greets the eye, While Severn like an eel curves gliding by: Two bridges cross the bark-conveying stream, And British alders gave the town a name.

ANCIENT HISTORY.

When the Britons had become somewhat settled in their new possessions, they built themselves a city, which (as has been already stated) was called _Pengwern_. After its destruction under Cynddylan, we find Pengwern inhabited by a King of Powis,—the capital of his kingdom, and ranking among the twenty-eight cities of Britain.

Brochwel Yscithrog, or the tusked, King of Powis, whom the Saxon Chronicle calls the Earlderman of the Britons, retained possession of a great part of Shropshire, and fixed his residence in Pengwern, about 617; his palace being where the ruins of Old St. Chad’s Church now stand.

Eliseg, his sixth descendant, recovered the portion of his “inheritance of Powis” from the Saxons, by the sword, during the reign of the Mercian King Offa, which continued from 755 to 794, but being unable to maintain it, he surrendered by treaty to the Saxons, whereby Pengwern lost the dignity of a metropolis.

Of the state of our town under its native princes we have no information: the arts of civil life, in which the Britons had improved, under their Roman masters, were probably lost during the almost constant warfare of three centuries. This we may reasonably conclude was the case, from the appellation given to it by the new possessors, _Scrobbes-byrig_, a fenced eminence, but overgrown with shrubs.

Nothing is related of the town during the period it formed a portion of the Mercian territory, though the place doubtless experienced the many revolutions of that kingdom.

In the reign of Alfred, Scrobbes-byrig was numbered among the principal cities of Britain. Ethelred the Unready, having been pursued by the Danes, kept his Christmas here in 1006, and in the next year resigned the government of Mercia unto his son-in-law Ædric, who made this town his occasional his occasional residence.

Under the Saxon monarchs the town must have been of importance to possess the privilege of a mint, which it retained for a considerable period, many coins of which are extant.

Ædric Sylvaticus, or the Forester, in conjunction with Owen Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales, laid siege to the town in 1068; but William the First sending two earls to the relief of the castle, the rebels burned a portion of the town and withdrew: the king however speedily revenged the insult with much slaughter.

The Saxons were removed from all places of trust by the Norman Conqueror, who rewarded his principal adherents with portions of their lands. He conferred upon his kinsman, Roger de Montgomery, the earldom of Shrewsbury, to which he added a grant of the town and ample domains in the county.

In 1138, the nation being divided as to Stephen’s right to the crown, that monarch laid siege to the castle. Fitz Alan, the governor, favouring the Empress Maud, fled, and Stephen, who had conducted the siege in his own person, was so exasperated at the obstinacy of the besieged, who resolutely held out nearly four weeks, that he put ninety-three of them to an ignominious death.

From the border situation of Shrewsbury to a hostile country, it was considered of much importance to our early monarchs, and consequently became the scene of many a negotiation and contest with the Welsh, whose frequent incursions were most harassing.

The Princes of North Wales having been long uneasy neighbours to the Kings of England, John thought it expedient to hold a council here to make a treaty with Llewelyn the Great, the then Prince of Wales. In the year 1202 the king gave Llewelyn his natural daughter Joanna in marriage; and, as if in gratitude to his father-in-law, he soon recommenced hostilities against him, and marched with a numerous body of his vigorous subjects from the Cambrian wilds to Shrewsbury, which he succeeded in taking without much resistance.

The town, however, did not long continue under the subjection or possession of its new masters, they being dispossessed by Henry III. who on more than one occasion kept his court here.

In 1234, Richard, Earl Marescall, being told that Henry intended to seize him when he repaired to parliament, fled to Llewelyn, and they both appeared before Shrewsbury with a powerful army, and burned part of the suburb of Frankwell, returning to the mountains laden with the spoil of the inhabitants, many of whom they had barbarously murdered.

Henry III. with his forces again marched to Shrewsbury in 1241, where he remained a fortnight, when David relinquished all lands Llewelyn had seized from the late king in the war between him and his barons.

In 1256, Henry, wishing probably to attach himself in the favour of the burgesses, in order to make their town a bulwark against Wales, granted them two new charters on the same day; he likewise summoned his army here; and in 1260 great activity was evinced in fortifying the town, in consequence of a rupture which was speedily expected from the aggression of the Welsh Prince.

Edward the First resided here in 1277, whither he transferred some of the supreme courts of justice. In 1282 David joined Llewelyn, who again took up arms, which compelled Edward to return to Shrewsbury with his courts, where he had assembled his army, which remained some months.

David, the last of the princes of the Ancient Britons, having at length become a prisoner in the hands of Edward in 1283, was sent in chains to Shrewsbury, where a parliament was assembled to meet Sept. 30th, being “_the first national convention in which the Commons had any share by legal authority_.” Twenty cities and towns, Shrewsbury being one, were directed to send two deputies, and every high sheriff to send two knights. It is supposed they met in the chapter house, or refectory of the abbey, where David was tried and cruelly condemned to be dragged at a horse’s tail through the streets of Shrewsbury, and to be afterwards hung and cut down while alive, his heart and bowels burnt before his face, his body quartered, and his head sent to London to accompany that of his brother Llewelyn.

Revenge, it may be said, is sweet; but how often does it occur that the gratification of resentment over a fallen enemy transmits his encomium to posterity.

The town, being strongly fenced, was visited by Edward in 1322, where he was honourably received by the inhabitants, who went out to meet him clad in armour; he continued here for several days, about which time many of the nobility had assembled to witness a grand tournament.

Richard II. Jan. 29th, 1397–8, adjourned his parliament from Westminster to Shrewsbury, which was denominated the “GREAT PARLIAMENT,” from the important state affairs which were transacted in it. The cross of Canterbury was brought here, upon which the lords spiritual and temporal were sworn to observe and keep all the statutes which were then made. Chester was on this occasion made a principality, and several oppressive laws enacted, which afterwards formed some of the accusations against Richard by Henry of Bolingbroke, when he usurped the throne.

The revolution which placed Henry of Lancaster on the throne seems to have met the approbation of the inhabitants; for when the Duke ostensibly proceeded into Wales to please Richard, he was nobly received here.

After the death of Richard, Owen Glendower, concerning whose birth the muse of Shakespeare says—

“The frame and foundation of the earth Shak’d like a coward”—