Part 3

THE CASTLE OF AMBOISE is a noble structure of great antiquity; and from the beauty of its elevated situation on the southern banks of the Loire, and the drive to it from Tours, of about twelve miles, being of a romantic and very interesting character, it is an object of much attraction to the general Tourist.

Constantine rebuilt the fort soon after its destruction by Diocletian. Charles the 8th, resided at this his birth place many years prior to his ascending the French throne; and in 1498 he here expired.

The two large towers which form a protected communication between the castle and the town below, were built by this monarch. One of the towers is remarkable for its internal spiral roadway, up which cavalry may ascend four abreast.

Louis 12th, Francis 1st, Henry 2nd, and Francis 2nd respectively contributed towards the improvement and adornment of the castle, and which by an act of Louis 16th, became the property of the Orleans family.

The small detached chapel dedicated to St.-Hubert is much admired for its sculptural embellishments in alto-relievo.

The pleasure grounds attached to the castle which are partially laid out in the English fashion, are extensive and diversified, and the view of the adjacent country from the terraces is remarkable for its picturesque beauty.

The glittering waters of the princely Loire studded with its numerous little green Isles, and white sails of commerce, are seen rapidly coursing in intricate windings through the broad, rich plain of corn-fields, for many miles in extent, both to the east and west, and which is bordered by bold elevations, and cliffs of chalk and calcareous sandstone, surmounted by a succession of beautiful vineyards. And perhaps the most singular feature in this varied landscape, is the vast chain of human habitations, which, like a whitened irregular stratum may be seen stretching out as far as the eye can reach in opposite directions, along the whole slope of the southern elevations just adverted to. They contain a large population, principally constituted of the cultivators of the adjacent plain and hills, the slopes being chiefly occupied by pretty white villas belonging to the better classes, while in the abrupt intermediate precipices of rock, the poor have scooped out their indestructible dwellings. And which, certainly possess some considerable advantages over those of their more pretending neighbours, being warm in winter, cool in summer, and dry in all seasons. These subterranean abodes, together present an exceedingly curious and novel spectacle. Sometimes the excavations are continued a considerable height up the cliff, and the numerous doors and windows in the face of it, apprize the spectator that, his species here literally "live and have their being" in the foundations of the earth! A kind of fret work or fantastically wrought sculpture not unfrequently over-arches the entrance, or hangs like an ornamental frieze above entire dwellings, which on a close inspection we discover to be the mystical workings and embellishments of nature herself, being actually constituted of a bed of fossil zoophytes, which in the very spot they now occupy, vegetated at the bottom of the antediluvian Ocean! How strange the transformation! How astounding the physical revolutions time has here effected!--The identical _bed of coral_, over which the turbulent waves of the Ocean rolled for centuries, and amid which the finny tribe disported, now, in its pristine position, forms a roof for the permanent dwellings of man! Which, with their fruitful vines flourishing around the doors, and the smoke from the domestic hearth rising in graceful curls through the submarine production, or as sometimes seen, peering through some verdant knoll, present a singular, but pleasing picture of humble contentment security and peace.

Near the western visible extremity of these thickly peopled hills, the lofty turrets of Tours cathedral are distinctly visible in the horison.

But in our enumeration of the more striking features of this interesting panorama, we must not omit to mention the long island in the middle of the river, immediately below the castle, and which communicates with the town by a stone bridge of ten arches, and with the opposite bank by a curiously constructed wooden bridge of eleven arches. The portion of the island above the bridges, being covered with a verdant turf, and tall trees, affords a very agreeable and favourite promenade, while the part contiguous to the bridges being entirely occupied by houses, presents the curious appearance of a small town floating as it were on the hurrying current.

Visitors from Tours to this place sometimes extend their drive on the same day to Chenonceaux, a distance of ten miles through the extensive forest of Amboise, and return from thence to the city, a drive of twenty miles, along the interesting banks of the river Cher.

CASTLE OF CHENONCEAUX.

This a large and majestic structure, and being built upon arches constructed across the Cher exhibits a singular appearance, and its approach through a noble avenue of trees is one of striking beauty.

This beautiful chateau, supposed to have been erected in the thirteenth century, became crown property in 1535.

It was greatly improved and embellished by Diana of Poitiers, mistress of Henry 2nd who however was afterwards compelled by Catherine de Medicis to exchange this splendid gift of her munificent lord, for Chaumont-sur-Loire.

Its extensive picture gallery contains a considerable variety of interesting paintings and ancient portraits. In short the general character and internal decorations of this spacious and antique building, its neat and extensive pleasure grounds, with the pretty sylvan park attached thereto, together render the place an object of very general interest.

PLESSIS-LES-TOURS.

In the plain, about a mile to the west-ward of Tours, a few comparatively inconsiderable remains of the royal Castle and appendages of Plessis-les-Tours, are still to be seen; they consist of an extensive wall about 15 feet high enclosing about 60 acres of arable land, an uninteresting habitable portion of the ancient structure, and a remnant of the once famous and beautiful Saint Hubert's Chapel. These solitary relics in fact barely suffice to attest the spot where high in the air, arose the noble and massive pile, which during the feudal times of darkness and of danger, was watched and defended with the most extreme and jealous care.

This castle was the favourite residence of Louis XI, and many were the strange and plotting scenes enacted here during the period it was dignified by the presence of his mysterious court. He is said to have been excessively superstitious, crafty, vindictive and cruel, and the vigilance and surveillance he caused to be exercised in the vicinity of his palace, by his not over scrupulous agents, continually filled the surrounding neighbourhood with awe and apprehension.

A vast enclosed chase, termed in latin of the middle ages, _Plexitium_, encircled the external enclosures surrounding the open esplanade which sloped up to the castle walls, rendering the precincts of the Royal domain as sombre and portentous in aspect, as were the dark and multiplied battlements which frowned above the monarchs of the surrounding forests.

The cruel and treacherous cardinal La Balue was a great favourite at this court, and for a considerable period basked in the smiles of royalty at Plessis-les-Tours, but Louis having strong grounds for suspecting that he had been mainly instrumental in betraying him to the duke of Burgundy,--his feuds with whom were highest about 1460--he ultimately caused him to be immured in one of the iron cages, we have referred to in our notice of Loches. In this horrid den, the invention of which some ascribe to Balue himself, he was confined eleven years, principally it is said at Plessis-les-Tours, nor did Louis permit him to be liberated till his last illness.

Such are a few of the historical facts associated with the crumbling memento which as yet remain of this favourite and beautiful demesne of a great and powerful monarch. All its proud bulwarks have long since fallen beneath the ruthless hand of time, and its noble and extensive forests been laid prostrate by the active axe of the cultivator, while the march of rural improvement which has entirely renewed the face of the plain, will ere long have swept every ancient vestige away leaving the antiquary to search for the locality of Plessis-les-Tours, alone in the page of History.

But what reasonable and enlightened mind will regret even such a consummation, for, as moral improvement advances towards the climax of perfection, we every day see the face of nature rejoicing in its progress, and her children enjoying the fruits of their industry in the fullness of freedom and of unrestricted liberty.

The clustering vine and the golden waving corn, now deck the place of the arbitrary halls, and the dismal dungeons of the castle, the peaceful hamlet with its neat and assiduously cultivated gardens, covers no inconsiderable portion of the once exclusive and lordly precincts, while its unsophisticated population pursue their daily avocations in fearlessness and in peace.

Old tottering ruins and dismantled Towers may of themselves under many circumstances be justly deemed very picturesque objects, and merit to be valued accordingly, but to preserve and venerate _all_ solely for their historical associations, which at best, are but too frequently the dark and ignominious doings of a clandestine and barbarous age, would seem to argue a morbid sensibility, more befitting the devoted and infatuated antiquarian, than the true and enlightened philosopher who sees "language in stones and God in everything."

There are a few other ancient Chateaux and some inconsiderable architectural remains in the arrondisement, but as they present few or no features of general interest, it would be a work of supererogation to particularize them; we cannot however close these brief notices without particularly adverting to a very laudable and attractive modern institution, situated at the pretty sequestered village of Mettray, about three miles from Tours. And this we shall do with the more pleasure, as its philanthropic object, judicious development of its practical plans, moral and religious administration, would do honor to any nation in the world.

The purport of this Institution, which is denominated an "Agricultural Colony", is to reform juvenile delinquents; and by the inculcation of moral and religious principles, aided by sober methodical and industrious habits, to effect the great work of penitentiary reform. The founders and devoted benefactors of the colony are Mr de Metz and viscount de Bretigneres. These benevolent gentlemen took the sublime idea of such a project from the reform colony founded by the worthy and excellent Hickerr, at Horn near Hambourg in 1834. And they have so zealously and skilfully executed their designs, as to have already realized in all essential particulars, a beautiful model of their admirable prototype.

The colony is composed of a certain number of uniformly built houses;--Each house contains forty children, divided into two sections, and forming one family, headed by a chief, who has subject to his orders two under teachers.

The first Sunday of each month, a colonist is elected in the respective sections, who takes the title of elder Brother; and serves as mediator between the masters and the pupils. The houses are erected (30 feet) distant from each other, and are united by sheds. The ground floor of the "Maison de la Ville de Paris" occupied by the family A,--is organized like the work shops at Horn, it contains work rooms of tailors, shoemakers, saddlers, etc., and the rest are arranged in nearly the same manner. The house of Count d'Aurches on the ground floor contains six prison cells on the first story, the director's room, and that of the agent of the agricultural works. On the second story, the office and the lodging room of the accountable agent,--a forge and a braziers work shop for the service of the house, are established under the fourth shed. The adjacent large building is intended for a class of 300 scholars; the chaplain and the professor of gymnastics occupy the house opposite those of the colonists. A handsome chapel has recently been added to the establishment.

The instruction given to the colonists is regulated by the station they are likely to fill in the world.

For the suppression of vice, a tribunal composed of the colonists inscribed on the honourable list, is deputed to try serious offences, the directors reserving to themselves the right of softening those judgments which may be too severe.

The heads of each family (young men of irreproachable conduct, selected on the formation of the colony from poor but respectable familyies) conduct their children to the fields, and the work rooms, which are separated into several divisions by a partition of a yard in height; by the manner of which distribution a single chief can at the same time overlook the works of the whole. After the ordinary occupations of the day, the children return to their respective families, where it is sought to instil in their hardened minds those affections and good feelings which the carelessness or depravity of their parents had blighted.

When a fresh pupil arrives at the establishment, he is placed under the peculiar care of an intelligent person who studies his disposition, and who each day gives to the director an account of the results of his observations; after a certain period of trial, the child is admitted in a family, where is performed a religious ceremony, and a sermon preached to prove the blessing of finding a safe asylum after many temptations;--it is then the new comer is reinstated in the eyes of the colony and its directors; who take it on themselves, if he conducts himself well, to place him, and to appoint him a zealous patron who enjoys public esteem.

Such is the philanthropic nature of the system adopted in this admirable institution, already productive of the happiest results; and so judiciously and efficaciously have the economical and industrial departments been conducted, that it is confidently expected, the colony will in two years support itself.

The visitor will he highly gratified by a trip to this establishment, the _tout ensemble_ of which on a fine summer's day, particularly, is one of surpassing loveliness. Its pretty white Swisslike buildings are completely environed by woods, groves, vineyards, and tastefully decorated pleasure grounds, which, viewed as the hallowed precincts of practical humanity and piety, are highly calculated to inspire the reflective mind with the most pleasing thoughts and emotions.

Peaceful abode! with rural beauty rife, And charms that smooth the rugged paths of life; Here human aid assumes a power divine, And _Virtue's_ fix'd her gentle, hallowed shrine; Erring, untutor'd youth, enraptur'd pause Mid wild career, to recognize her laws. _Vice_ with her direful train abash'd retires, Nor dares to light her soul-consuming fires; _Industry_ with her sober, powerful arm, Guards the young mind, and keeps the passions calm: While benign _religion_, with sweet controul, Gently compels, the wild and wayward soul To taste the various joys her truths impart, And kiss the rod that rectifies the heart.

The customary paved roads having in this department as in many other provinces of France been broken up, and superseded by well formed macadamized ones, trips into the surrounding country can be performed with as much ease and facility as is afforded by the unequalled highways of England.

The steam packets which navigate the river as far down as Nantes, and up to Orleans, offer every facility for agreeable excursions.

SOCIETY.

It is presumed that in closing these multifarious notices, a few words touching the social habits and condition of the little _coterie_ of English located at Tours, may prove acceptable to the general reader, as well as to persons who contemplate an abode within its interesting precincts.

The established etiquette is, for those who have resolved on a period of residence, _first_ to call upon such of the British residents as they may feel disposed to visit, which acts of courtesy, are, generally speaking, the prelude to a reciprocity of agreeable and social intercourse.

An air of high respectability, and elegance, is characteristic of the Anglo-French circle of acquaintance pervading Tours and its environs; the newly arrived man of social habits and fashion, may if he chooses, soon possess the happy consciousness of feeling, that, though distant from friends and native land, he has his customary social comforts, and habitual pleasures and refinements of life, completely at his command.

It is true, these enjoyments exist in a limited and circumscribed form, but for this very reason, facility of intercourse and goodfellowship, are distinguished by an acuteness of character, rarely to be found in the far more expansive arrondisements of English society at home.

The warm, generous heart of the Englishman, like the concentrated rays of the genial orb of day, here, glows with the greater intensity on all who come within the sphere of its vivifying influence.

Behold him seated at his hospitable board, which groans beneath the cheapened luxuries and substantial fare, alike of his native and his adopted land, and gladdened by the presence of his selected countrymen, who perhaps like himself, have quitted their native shores, to seek for renewed pleasure, wonted repose, health, or it may be economy, abroad. The sparkling champagne speedily thaws the icy formula which too often envelopes and conceals the best, inherent feelings of his nature, and in the exuberance of his zeal for the universal cultivation of the _social principle_, and his lively sense of national toleration and liberality, he rises to toast, with equal sincerity, the beloved Queen of old England, or the citizen King of France.

And in what a pretty sylvan retreat has he snugly domiciled himself!--his white freestone villa, which presents a pleasing display of architectural elegance, is replete with every internal comfort; a smiling _parterre_, decked with many a fine specimen of the stately cypress, a garden stored with rare and luscious fruits, and the generous vine every where hanging in graceful festoons, are the most prominent adjuncts of his sequestered retirement.

There is in short, an exclusiveness, a completeness, spaciousness and peacefulness, about this his foreign abode, which comports well with his native feelings, and closely assimilates with the home of his childhood.

Such are the brighter parts of a pleasing picture, and it would hardly appear fair, were we to recount them without a glance at its darker shades, which, circumscribed like some of the former; are also of an intense character, and in the busy workings of the ill disposed curiosity monger, often appear, as the concentrated essence of bold conjecture. In plain terms, here, as in other small communities, the condition, and character of individuals, are constantly subjected to the microscopic investigations of the vigilant, and not over scrupulous retailers of flying news, and _interesting on dits_.

The good feeling of the well-bred, and liberal minded Frenchman, is ever here, manifested towards the English, in a variety of pleasing demonstrations, constituting a series of practical illustrations of that native politeness, for which he is pre-eminently distinguished.

And no one can, we think, be a spectator of these mutual good offices, and growing interchange of kindly feeling, between the subjects of two nations which have so long been led to regard each other as inveterate foes,--without rejoicing at the liberal and peaceful policy which maintains inviolate the present order of things. Beneath its fostering and genial sway, the acceleration of the respective national interests and energies, the reciprocal cultivation of the arts and sciences, the advancement of true religion and benevolence, and the consolidation of domestic happiness, though amongst the most prominent, are but a meagre catalogue of the mutual benefits, which the two neighbouring nations, cannot fail to realize, as the blessings of a _permanent peace_.

BOTANY OF TOURAINE.

In this rapid enumeration of the more prominently interesting features of Indre-et-Loire, it would appear unpardonable were we to pass over wholly unnoticed, the Botanical productions of the department, the great variety and successful culture of which, have long since obtained for it the enviable _sobriquet_ of the _garden of France_. And perhaps it behoves us the more especially to glance at it in an essay of this character, as the study of Botany has become so favorite and fashionable a pursuit, that scarcely a person of any pretensions to elegant taste, or to refined intellectual occupations, traverses a new or distant region without endeavouring to increase the interesting riches of his _Hortus siccus_: or at least to bestow some attention to its natural floral and arborescent productions.

It is justly observed that a Botanical taste, of all sources of amusement, is, to an invalid, perhaps the most desirable. When exercise is the only object it becomes irksome even in the loveliest scenery; the Botanist is however beguiled onwards with a never ceasing fascination, yet so leisurely as not to induce fatigue; and when his strength is unequal to excursions of higher attainment, he can find beauties in the humblest paths.

Frenchmen take much delight in their gardens, which are often very extensive and characterized by great neatness and uniformity, indeed in the majority of instances regularity is carried to excess;--clipped hedges, alleys laid out in straight lines, flower beds tortured into fantastic shapes, trees cut in the form of pyramids, birds, animals, etc., are the order of the day. The principles of good taste are however beginning to manifest themselves in the adoption of a more natural and elaborate style in the laying out of grounds which surround many of the more modern mansions, etc. And they are frequently enriched by choice and rare collections of exotic plants. Among the most conspicuous of the arborescent kinds, which adorn the pleasure grounds of such establishments, may be named the cypress de la Louisiane, the Pinus Silvestris, the graceful Weeping-willow, and Acacia, which here grow to great perfection; the Arbutus, Bay tree, Laurel, Fig tree, Chesnut, and Majestic Cedar of Lebanon. They also frequently contain some fine specimens of the beautiful family of mimosas, a variety of Pelargoniums, with the elegant Coronille, and Annas.

Between four hundred and five hundred plants are said to be cultivated in the gardens. And upwards of twelve hundred wild plants have been enumerated as belonging to Touraine, besides the _cryptogamia_, such as the mosses, ferns, liverworts, and mushrooms.