Chapter 2

The Rancho of Arivaca, containing several valuable silver mines, and seventeen thousand acres of valuable land, has been purchased by this company. It has also acquired the titles to a number of other valuable mines of galena ore, and copper containing silver and gold. Hitherto, the exertions of the company have been directed principally to explorations and cleaning out the old mines, but they have at present above ground, ready for smelting, several thousand dollars worth of their ores. Prof. Booth, U. S. Assayer, as well as other distinguished authorities, have, after thorough experiment, given to the company certificates of the great richness of the ores already shipped to the east. The annual report of the Sonora Mining Co. is full of interest to the general reader. The Sopori mine is another very valuable property. It is owned by Messrs. Douglass, Aldrich, and another. Want of capital has prevented the extensive development of this mine. It affords its proprietors a handsome profit, worked in the smallest and cheapest manner. The vein is of great size, has been traced several rods in length, and pays about one dollar to the pound of ore. The writer has examined specimens from the "Sopori," taken at random, and so rich is the ore that the native silver can be cut out of it with a penknife, as out of a Mexican dollar. Undoubtedly the Sopori mine is destined to yield hundreds of millions. It is a peculiarity of the ores in this district that they run near the surface, making mining of comparative small cost. The Sopori mine is surrounded by a fine country, well watered and wooded. The "Gadsonia Copper Mining Co.," after taking out a few tons of exceedingly rich ore--averaging over eighty per cent.--was obliged to suspend operations on account of the cost of transportation. When the Territory shall be organized and capital protected by law, these mines will be worked to advantage. "The Gila River Copper Mines" are more favorably situated than any other yet opened, being directly on the Gila River, only twenty-five miles from its mouth. The ores can be taken from the mine, immediately shipped upon flat boats or a light draft steamer, and transported down the Colorado River to the head of the Gulf of California, when they can be transhipped to England at small cost. Upwards of twenty veins of copper ore have been opened, and the assays give results varying from 30 to 70 per cent. These mines are owned by Messrs. Hooper, Hinton, Halstead, and another. Several thousand dollars have been already expended in prospecting and opening veins, and it was anticipated by the proprietors that the first cargo would be shipped to Swansea, England, this year.

Smelting works will eventually be built at the mines, or at Colorado City, opposite Fort Yuma, and the profits of this company must be very great. The vicinity of the Colorado, and the abundance of wood and water, give the proprietors facilities for conducting their operations at small cost.

Silver mining is also carried on in the vicinity of Mesilla Valley, and near the Rio Grande. Many other mining operations are constantly being commenced; but the depredations of the Apache Indians have almost entirely snatched success from the hard-working miner, who, besides losing his all, is often massacred in some ferocious manner.

No protection, either civil or military, is extended over the greater portion of Arizona. This checks the development of all her resources--not only to her own injury, but that of California and the Atlantic States--by withholding a market for their productions, and the bullion which she is fully able to supply to an extent corresponding to the labor employed in obtaining it.

A. B. Gray, Esq., late U. S. Surveyor under the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, for running the Mexican Boundary, and subsequently Exploring Engineer and Surveyor of the Southern Pacific Railroad, has probably seen more of the proposed Territory of Arizona than any other person, his statements in reference to that region, embodied in a report to the Hon., the Secretary of the Interior, from actual field reconnoissances six years ago, will be read with much interest, particularly as since then, repeated developments in that country have proved the correctness of his judgment; his opinions are, therefore, of much importance, as expressed in his able report. It will be recollected that this was then Mexican Territory. Colonel Gray says:

"The public, I think have been misled by misrepresentations made in regard to the resources of the region of country lying along the Gila and upon the line proposed for a railroad at or near the parallel of 32 degrees north latitude. That portion of country east of the Rio Grande I can say but little of from personal observation, having been over but apart of the ground near the eastern division in Texas, and that in the vicinity of El Paso. At both these points, however, a fine country exists. Upon the Gila river grows cotton of the most superior kind. Its nature is not unlike that of the celebrated Sea Island cotton, possessing an equally fine texture, and, if anything, more of a silky fibre. The samples I procured at the Indian villages, from the rudely cultivated fields of the Pimas and Maricopas, have been spoken of as an extraordinary quality. Wheat, corn, and tobacco, together with beans, melons, etc., grow likewise upon the banks and in the valleys bordering the Gila and its tributaries. The sugar cane, too, I believe, will be found to thrive in this section of the country west of the Rio San Pedro. A sort of candied preserve and molasses, expressed from the fruit of the cereus giganteus and agave Americana was found by our party in 1851, as we passed through the Pinal Llano camps and among the Gila tribes, to be most acceptable. The candied preserve was a most excellent substitute for sugar. It is true that there are extensive wastes to be encountered west of the Rio Grande, yet they are not deserts of sand, but plains covered at certain seasons of the year with luxuriant grass, exhibiting green spots and springs not very remote from each other at all times. There is sufficient water in the Gila and its branches for all the purposes of irrigation when it is wanted, the streams being high during the season most needed. The Rio Salado, a tributary of the Gila, is a bold and far more beautiful river than the Gila itself, and, from the old ruins now seen there, must have had formerly a large settlement upon its banks. "To many persons merely travelling or emigrating across the country, with but one object in view, and that the reaching their destination on the Pacific, the country would generally present a barren aspect. But it will be recollected that the most productive fields in California, before American enterprise introduced the plough, and a different mode of cultivation from that of the natives of the country, presented somewhat similar appearance. Many believed, at first, from the cold and sterile look of the hills, and the parched appearance of the fields and valleys, over which the starving coyote is often seen prowling in search of something to subsist on, that California could never become an agricultural district, but must depend upon her other resources for greatness, and trust to distant regions for the necessaries of life required for her increased population. It was natural enough, too, that this impression should be created in those accustomed to a different State of things, and particularly when it is considered that the very season of blossom and bloom of our Atlantic States was the winter of California; but these same fields and hills have a very different appearance in January, February, and March, clothed as they are in the brightest verdure and no one now will pretend to say that California does not possess within herself great agricultural as well as mineral wealth. This, I believe, will some day be the case with the country from the Rio Grande to the Gulf of California, adjacent to the Gila. Senate Ex. Doc. No. 55, 33rd Congress, 2nd Session."

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In speaking of the resources of this region for a railroad, in the same report, Gray says:

"The valley of Mesilla, extending from about twelve miles above the true boundary of the treaty to the parallel of 32 degrees 22 minutes north latitude, lies wholly within the disputed district, and is, for its extent, one of the most beautiful and fertile along the whole course of the Rio Grande. The town of Mesilla, only a few years old, contains several thousand people, and is a prosperous little place. It was not settled until after the cession of this territory to us by the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo. Portions of the valley are highly cultivated, and produce the grains and fruits of our most thriving States. In connexion with the land on the east side of the river, the valley of the Messilla is capable of sustaining a considerable population. It is situated centrally with regard to a large district of country of lesser agricultural capacity. The section of the Rio Grande in the vicinity of El Paso and the valley of Mesilla, is proverbial for the production of fine vegetables and fruits. Indeed, about El Paso, it is a complete garden with flourishing vineyards, equalling in excellence those of the most celebrated grape growing countries.

"By a judicious disposition of military stations along this line, only a few troops would be required to protect the great northern frontier of Sonora and Chihuahua, and enable us to carry out the 11th article of our late treaty with Mexico more effectually, and at the same time prevent any depredations which the Indians might be disposed to commit on the road. Soon after, the settlement of the country would make the presence of the military unnecessary, either for the safety of a railway of the security of the frontier. The strong holds of the Apaches, and their pathway to Mexico, would be cut off.

"A wagon road established from the Gulf of California would enable supplies to be transported along this line at one-half of the present cost. The saving of one-third or more distance, through a comparatively unsettled country, in transportation is an important consideration in the construction of a railway, more especially when men and materials, to a great extent, must be brought from very remote points. The navigation of the Gulf of California is said to be very good. The trade-winds from the northwest, encountering the highlands of the peninsula of Lower California, and forming a counter current under its lee, enable sailing vessels to proceed advantageously along that coast. Returning, by keeping on the eastern aide, or along the shore of Sonora, they could avail themselves of the prevailing winds, which regain their usual direction after sweeping across the wide expanse of water. The trade of the Gulf, with its pearl fisheries and other resources, would be speedily developed.

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"The advantages of such a thoroughfare are obvious. Five years would hardly elapse before inestimable benefits would be realized; and, should war threaten our Pacific possessions, a few days would suffice to send from the Mississippi valley an army that would defy any force that the most formidable power could array against us. The fine cotton region of the Gila, the rich copper, silver, and gold mines of New Mexico and Sonora would be at once developed, bringing a vast district of country into cultivation which now presents a fruitless waste, owing to Indian depredations and the absence of means of communication and protection. Mexico has tried for a century past to insure safety to her inhabitants in this region, but notwithstanding the expense she has incurred in keeping up her garrisons, she has failed to afford them protection.

"The deserted appearance of the country from El Paso to the Colorado is no criterion by which to judge of its value. The beautiful valley of San Xavier, or Santa Cruz, some two years ago when I passed through it, was entirely deserted. The once thriving towns of Tumacacori and Tubac had not the sign of a living soul about them except the recent moccasin track of the Apaches. The orchards and vineyards of the once highly cultivated fields and gardens bore the marks of gradual decay and destruction. The ranchos of Calabazas, of San Bernardino, and numerous other places on this frontier, presented the same melancholy aspect, the result of the inability of Mexico to protect this portion of territory from the inroads of the savages. There are now but a few settlements throughout this district of country, but were it protected by a power that could and would defend it, what is now a waste in the hands of the savages might become a thriving country, with safety insured to its inhabitants." Senate Ex. Doc. No. 55, 33rd Congress, 2nd Sess.

I quote the following language of Gray, from subsequent explorations made by him, three years after his first expedition, and contained in his report to the Southern Pacific Railroad Company. It was chiefly from the discoveries made by Gray, in this adventurous expedition, through regions unknown for many years past, between the Rio Grande and Gulf of California, together with the Gadsden Treaty, that induced parties at great expense to emigrate there, and commence working the vast mineral deposites, such as the Arabac silver mines, the Ajo copper mountain, and others, but which, through lack of proper protection and means of communication, have been greatly retarded in their development.

After crossing the dividing ridge of the continent west of the Rio Grande, Gray thus alludes to the country:

"There were large haciendas and fine cattle ranches in this neighborhood, until a war of extermination was declared by the Apaches against the Mexicans. Remains of the old San Pedro ranch are seen at this day; also the "Tres Alamos;" and the ruins of the hacienda of Babacomeri, whose walls and towers are still standing. These were among the wealthiest of Sonora in horses, cattle, sheep, etc., but it has been many years since. It is a fine grazing region, with wild cattle and mustangs constantly seen roaming over the plains. The district from San Pedro to Santa Cruz valley, nearly due west from our present crossing (latitude 31 degrees 34 minutes), will be to the Pacific slope what the region of Fort Chadbourne, in Texas, will be to the Atlantic. The mountains and hills are covered with splendid timber of the largest size, and for all purposes; and the valleys are full of springs, and the finest grass. To Tubac, a town in the valley of Santa Cruz, it is 69 miles. This is by following the San Pedro about a league, passing over a few insignificant spurs, and ascending the Rio Babacomeri; thence continuing westward by a gradual rise over delightful plains to the divide between that and the Sonoita or Clover creek, and along the latter, until it loses itself in the porous earth, a mile from the Santa Cruz river, and by the broad valley of that stream to Tubac."

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Of the line of Gray's exploration from the Rio San Pedro, he says:

"It passes through the most desirable region, with the hills and mountains for forty miles, containing inexhaustible quantities of timber. We noticed tall cedar and oaks of every description; one kind more interesting than the others, being a white oak from twenty to forty feet in the body. Pine and spruce, with superior white ash and walnut, were found, and the most gigantic cotton-woods, particularly on the Sonoita. * * * * "The mountains in the neighborhood are filled with minerals, and the precious metals are said to abound. The famous Planchas de Plata and Arizona silver mines, which the Count Raouset de Boulbon attempted to take possession of, are in this section of country, not many miles below the present limits, and at several of the old ranchos and deserted mining villages which we visited, were found the argentiferous galena ore and gold. The Sierra Santa Rita runs along to the east of the Santa Cruz valley, and forms a part of this interesting region. It is very high and bold, filled with fertile valleys and flowing rivulets, and covered with a dense growth of timber. I saw much of this district, when here in 1851, on the survey of the boundary."

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The country bordering immediately the head of the Gulf of California, through which Gray was probably the first to penetrate, lies adjacent to the proposed Arizona Territory, but not a part of the same, being a portion of the State of Sonora. He thus describes that section:

"The Indians represent rich Placers existing throughout this region, and large numbers of them had lately come in with considerable quantities of the dust. They were trading it for trifles to the Mexicans. I got some specimens of it which was the same as the California Gold. This was not the time of year (June) for them to work the mines, but in the fall, after the rain has commenced. The greatest drawback to the profitable working of the Placers of this district, is the scarcity of water. If artesian wells succeed, there is little doubt that it will create an important change. West from Tuseon and Tubac, towards the Gulf of California, the country presents more the appearance of a barren waste or desert than any district I have seen. It nevertheless has occasional oases, with fine grazing lands about them, and the mountains, which are more broken and detached, have distinct marks of volcanic origin. The ranges though short, have generally the same parallel direction as those further east. It is the country of the Papago Indians, a peaceful and friendly tribe, extending down to the Gulf coast, where they are mixed up somewhat with the Cocopas of the Colorado. From Sonoita I explored to the Gulf shore, near the mouth of Adair Bay. It was 62 miles, following a dry arroya most of the way, and the point at which I struck the Gulf was in latitude 31 degrees 36 minutes 34 minutes. The "Bay" is about 15 miles across, and from all I could learn, 15 miles long, and represented as having four fathoms of water. It is completely encircled by a range of sand hills, reaching north-west to the Colorado river and south-east as far as the eye could discover. These "sables" are probably eighty or ninety miles in extent, by five to ten broad.

"Notwithstanding it appears to be the most desolate and forlorn-looking spot for eighty miles around the head of the Gulf, the sand hills looking like a terrible desert, nature seems even here, where no rain had fallen for eight months, to have provided for the sustenance of man, one of the most nutritious and palatable vegetables.

"East of the Tinaja Alta or high tank range, lie the famous Sierras del Ajo, now United States territory. These mountains derive their name from the vast deposits of red oxide and green carbonate of copper found about them, and which the Indians have made use of to paint (ajo) themselves with. The mines are unquestionably of great value, and must become important, more particularly from their being situated in the neighborhood of the contemplated railway. The tall Cereus Giganteus and Agave Americana are found in abundance. From the latter plant the natives make the pulque, mezcal and agua-diente; and the petahaya or cereus, produces a fruit from which is made a very pleasant preserve. At the Pimo and Maricopa villages are found wheat, corn, tobaco, and cotton, besides melons, pumpkins, beans, etc. The nature of the soil for great distances in the Gila valley is of a reddish loam; some parts coated with a beautiful crystallization of salt, a quarter to half an inch thick. This seems to be more particularly the case below the Maricopa villages and toward the Rio Salado. The cotton, of which I procured specimens, though cultivated by the Indians in the most primitive manner, exhibited a texture not unlike the celebrated Sea Island cotton. Its fibre is exceedingly soft and silky, but not of the longest staple. Large tracts of land on the Gila and in other portions of this district, appear to possess the same properties of soil; and where, I have no doubt, the finest cotton will soon be extensively raised and brought to its highest state of perfection by proper cultivation."

The climate is thus referred to by Gray:

"One of the most favorable features upon the route in the vicinity of the 32nd degree proposed for the Pacific railway is, its accessibility at all times, admitting of labor being performed in the open air at each season. The nature of the climate through Texas to the Rio Grande has already been referred to, and from thence to the Santa Cruz valley half way to the Colorado, over the elevated plateau of the Sierra Madra, it is equally salubrious and temperate. The rainy season falls in the summer months, and but seldom is snow seen even upon the mountain tops. Towards the Colorado river it is much drier and more torrid, but by no means unhealthy; nor does it prevent out door work the whole of the day during the heated term of summer.

"The great riches of the country, however, are a total waste at the present time, but which the Pacific railroad will at once develop, and make to itself the foundation of a vast revenue. I refer to its metallic wealth, the silver, gold, and copper mines that abound in almost every mountain and valley, between the Rio Grande and the Gulf of California.

"The ores of Chihuahua and Sonora [now Arizona. S. M.] are chiefly sulphuret (lead or iron), or native silver in porphyritic or stratified limestone rocks passing at greater depths into igneous rocks. From loose piles lying upon the surface and evidently picked over, I procured specimens of silver and copper. Three samples representing points on the line of our exploration about equi-distant from each other, viz.: the Rio Grande, the neighborhood of Tubac, and within 90 miles of the junction of the Gila and Colorado rivers, were submitted to Dr. I. K. Chilton, of New York, for analysis. He found in one sample of lead ore (argentiferous galena), by fire assay 71 per cent. of lead, and the "LEAD YIELDED SILVER EQUIVALENT to 128 ounces, 1 dwt. to the ton" (of 2000 pounds).

"In another, he found the lead obtained from it to yield silver in the proportion of 72 ounces 5 dwts. to the ton or 2000 pounds.

"The copper specimen was the red oxide, and yielded as follows:

Copper,............ 71.80 Iron,.............. 7.84 Oxygen,............ 12.34 Silicia, Alumina,.. 8.02 ------ 100 parts.

"The Papagos and Pimas Indians, by proper management, might be made very useful, in working upon the road where there is not much rock excavation. They are unlike the Indians of Texas, or the Apaches, living in villages and cultivating the soil, besides manufacturing blankets, baskets, pottery, etc. Quiet and peaceable, they have no fears except from their enemies, the Apaches, and are very industrious, much more so than the lower order of Mexicans, and live far more comfortably. It is astonishing with what precision they construct their acequias--irrigating canals--some of them, the acequias madre, of very large size, and without the use of levelling apparatus, but simply by the eye. Their gardens and farms too are regularly ditched and fenced off into rectangles and circles, with hedges and trees planted as if done by more enlightened people."