Chapter 1

Produced by Dianne Bean. HTML version by Al Haines.

MEMOIR OF THE PROPOSED TERRITORY OF ARIZONA.

BY

SYLVESTER MOWRY, U. S. A., DELEGATE ELECT.

WASHINGTON: HENRY POLKINHORN, PRINTER. 1857.

"The NEW TERRITORY of ARIZONA, better known as the GADSDEN PURCHASE, lies between the thirty-first and thirty-third parallels of latitude, and is bounded on the north by the Gila River, which separates it from the territory of New Mexico; on the east by the Rio Bravo del Norte, (Rio Grande), which separates it from Texas; on the south by Chihuahua and Sonora, Mexican provinces; and on the west by the Colorado River of the West, which separates it from Upper and Lower California. This great region is six hundred miles long by about fifty miles wide, and embraces an area of about thirty thousand square miles. It was acquired by purchase from Mexico, during the mission of General Gadsden, at a cost of ten millions of dollars. In the original treaty, as negotiated by General Gadsden, a more southern boundary than the one adopted by the Senate of the United States in confirming the treaty, was conceded by Santa Anna. The line at present is irregular in its course, and cuts off from our Territory the head of the Santa Cruz river and valley, the Sonoita valley, the San Bernardino valley, the whole course of the Colorado river from a point twenty miles below the mouth of the Gila river, and, worse than all, the control of the head of the Gulf of California, and the rich and extensive valley of Lake Guzman, besides a large and extremely valuable silver region, well known both to Mexicans and Americans--the planchas de la Platte. General Gadsden's line included nearly all the territory south of the Gila river to the thirty-first parallel of latitude--all the advantages above mentioned--gave us the mouth of the Colorado river, and probably a port near the head of the gulf at Adair's Bay. We have no accurate survey of the west coast of the Gulf of California, but I am strongly of opinion that the original line conceded by Mexico would have thrown a portion of the gulf into American hands, by cutting off an arm of it extending east and north from the main body of water. A port on the gulf is of great and immediate necessity to our Pacific possessions. Of this hereafter.

The proposed boundaries, of the Territory of Arizona, are the 34th parallel of latitude, with New Mexico on the north, from the 103d meridian west to the Colorado; Texas on the east; Texas, and the Mexican provinces of New Mexico and Sonora on the south; and California on the west. The new Territory would thus contain within its borders the three largest rivers on the Continent, west of the Mississippi--the Rio Grande, Gila, and Colorado of the west, and embrace 90,000 square miles.

The Gadsden purchase is attached by act of Congress to the Territory of New Mexico. At the time of its acquisition there was scarcely any population except a few scattering Mexicans in the Mesilla valley, and at the old town of Tucson, in the centre of the territory. The Apache Indian, superior in strength to the Mexican, had gradually extirpated every trace of civilization, and roamed uninterrupted and unmolested, sole possessor of what was once a thriving and populous Spanish province.

Except the report of Col. A. B. Gray, there is scarcely anything in print with reference to the early history of Arizona, beyond the scanty but valuable notes of Major Emory and Hon. John R. Bartlett, in their reports, and in the appendix to Wilson's late book, "Mexico and its Religion." To this last I beg to refer any reader who desires accurate information respecting the Northern Mexican provinces, presented in a straightforward common-sense style.

In the possession of the writer of these notes is a map drawn in 1757, just one hundred years ago, presented by the Society of Jesuits to the King of Spain. The original of this map is now in the archives of the Mexican Government. It was copied, with the notes relating to the Territory, and to Sonora, Chihuahua, and Sinaloa, by Capt. C. P. Stone, late of the United States Army. The map bears the inscription, "Carte levee par la Societe des Jesuites, dediee au Roi d'Espagne en 1757."

The copy of the map and the accompanying notes are certified as accurate by the officer of the Mexican Government in charge of the archives.

My information, therefore, upon the early history of this comparatively unknown domain, is accurate and reliable. As early as 1687, a Jesuit missionary from the province of Sonora, which, in its southern portion, bore already the impress of Spanish civilization, descended the valley of Santa Cruz river to the Gila. Passing down the Gila to its mouth, after exploring the country, he retraced his steps, penetrated the country north of the Gila river for some distance, and ascended the Salinas or Salt river, and other northern branches of the Gila. The explorations of this energetic priest did not stop here. Proceeding east, he explored the valley of the San Pedro and its branches, thence along the Gila to the Mimbres, and probably to the Rio Grande and the Mesilla valley. Filled with the enthusiasm of his sect, he procured authority from the head of the order in Mexico, and established missions and settlements at every available point. In a report to the government of the viceroy of Spain, made during the early settlement of the province, I find the following language: "A scientific exploration of Sonora, with reference to mineralogy, along with the introduction of families, will lead to a discovery of gold and silver so marvellous that the result will be such as has never yet been seen in the world."

The reports of the immense mineral wealth of the new country, made by the Jesuits, induced a rapid settlement. There are laid down on the map before me more than forty towns and villages. Many of these were of considerable size. There were a few north of the Gila, and several on the lower Gila, near the Colorado. The Santa Cruz and its tributary valleys teemed with an agricultural and mining population. Thousands of enterprising Spaniards cultivated the rich valley of the San Pedro, and scattered settlements flourished at every suitable stream and spring at the foot of the mountains towards the Rio Grande. The notes before me say: "All these settlements and missions were founded in fertile valleys, and by streams and springs, which produced luxuriant crops of wheat, corn, and beans, and in many parts grapes and other foreign fruits were cultivated."

In the western part of the Territory were the missions of St. Pierre, St. Paul, St. Matthias, St. Simond, St. Francisco, Merci, the ranches of Eau Cheri, Eau de la Lune, and others; on the Santa Cruz the missions of San Xavier del Bac, Santiago, San Cayetano, and San Philipe, the towns of Tueson, Tubac, Reges, San Augusta, and many others. San Xavier del Bac is still in existence. It is a mission church of great size and beauty, magnificently ornamented within; forty thousand dollars in solid silver served to adorn the altar. Upon the San Pedro river were the missions of St. Mark, San Salvadore, San Pantaleon, Santa Cruz, and the towns of Quiduria, Rosario, Eugenia, Victoria, and San Fernando--the latter at the mouth--with many more. To the east some small settlements were found on the Valle del Sauz, on the Mimbres, at the copper mines north of the Mimbres, and to the south the immense grazing and stock-raising establishment of San Bernardino, where since have been raised hundreds of thousands of cattle and horses. The Indians in the vicinity of the missions were reduced first to obedience by the Jesuits, and then to slavery by the Spaniards.

The notes referred to above contain the names and localities of more than a hundred silver and gold mines which were worked with great success by the Spaniards. The survey of the Jesuit priest about 1687 was repeated in 1710 with renewed discoveries, and consequent accession of population. From this time up to 1757 the conquest and settlement of the country was prosecuted with vigor, both by the Jesuits' Society and Spanish government.

The missions and settlements were repeatedly destroyed by the Apaches, and the priests and settlers massacred or driven off. As often were they re-established. The Indians at length, thoroughly aroused by the cruelties of the Spaniards, by whom they were deprived of their liberty, forced to labor in the silver mines with inadequate food, and barbarously treated, finally rose, joined with tribes who had never been subdued, and gradually drove out or massacred their oppressors. A superior civilization disappeared before their devastating career, and to day there is scarcely a trace of it left, except scarcely visible ruins, evidence everywhere, of extensive and hastily-deserted mining operations, and the tradition of the country. The mission of San Xavier del Bac, and the old towns of Tueson and Tubac, are the most prominent of these remains. The labors of the Jesuits to civilize the Indians are still evident in the mission Indians, the Papagos and Pimas, who live in villages, cultivate crops of corn and wheat, and who, in the Christian and human elements of good faith and charity, are, to say the least, in no way inferior to the Mexicans. After the massacre of four of Crabbe's unfortunate party near Sonoita by the Mexicans, the Papago Indians buried carefully the bodies to which Mexican inhumanity had denied this last charitable office. It is a curious and suggestive fact that the latitude of places upon Gila, Santa Cruz, and San Pedro, determined by the Jesuits about 1750, has lately been verified by the observations of Park Michler, and Emory. The instruments used by the Jesuits were constructed by them, the lenses being made from pebbles.

From 1757 down to 1820, the Spaniards and Mexicans continued to work many valuable mines near Barbacora, and the notes in my possession speak of many silver mines, most of which contained a percentage of gold. "The San Pedro gold mine in 1748 was worked with extraordinary success." Among the mines anciently worked, as laid down in the authorities heretofore referred to, were the Dolores, San Antonio, Casa Gordo, Cabrisa, San Juan Batista, Santa Anna, (which was worked to the depth of one hundred and twenty yards,) Rosario, Cata de Agua, Guadaloupe, Connilla, Prieta, Santa Catarina, Guzopa, Huratano, Arpa, Descuhidara, Nacosare, Arguage, Churinababi, Huacal, Pinal, and a great number of others which it would only be tedious to mention.

The most celebrated modern localities are Arivaca, (also anciently famous as Aribac,) Sopori, the Arizona mountains, the Santa Rita range, the Cerro Colorado, the entire vicinity of Tubac, the Del Ajo, or Arizona copper mine, the Gadsonia copper mine, and the Gila river copper mines. These last are situated directly upon the Gila, only twenty-five miles from its mouth. The writer assures the public that there is no room for doubt as to the authenticity of these statements, or the immense resources of the new Territory in silver, copper, and probably gold. As late as 1820, the Mina Cobre de la Plata, (silver copper mines,) near Fort Webster, north of the Gila, were worked to great advantage; and so rich was the ore that it paid for transportation on muleback more than a thousand miles to the city of Mexico.

Every exploration within the past few years has confirmed the statements of the ancient records. The testimony of living Mexicans, and the tradition of the country, all tend to the same end. Col. A. B. Gray, Col. Emory, Lt. Michler, Lt. Parke, the Hon. John R. Bartlett, late of the United States Boundary Commission, all agree in the statement that the Territory has immense resources in silver and copper. Col. Emory says in his report:

"On account of the Gold Mania in California I kept the search for gold and other precious metals as much out of view as possible, scarcely allowing it to be a matter of conversation, much less of actual search. Yet, enough was ascertained to convince us that the whole region was teeming with the precious metals. We everywhere saw the remains of mining operations, conducted by the Spaniards, and more recently by the Mexicans."

The report enumerates at considerable length the various localities examined by Col. Emory's party, and others, of which there could be no doubt.

In view of these authorities, it is hoped that those who will not believe upon any evidence, will be content in their own incredulity. The most authentic reports of these immense mineral resources have been used as authorities against their existence. The authors of these denials either have never read what they pretend to quote, or think no one else has. The Hon. T. Butler King, who was the first to reveal to an incredulous public the wonders of the California gold mines, has had the singular good fortune to be also among the first to publish correct and authentic information relating to the silver treasures of Arizona. His report upon the resources of the new Territory has all the charm to the reader that his California report had, and its brilliant predictions will be as fully realized. To Gray and Emory is the country most indebted for the earliest and most important discoveries.

The agricultural resources of Arizona, are sufficient to sustain a large mining population, and afford abundant supplies for the great immigration which will follow the development of its mineral resources. The whole valley of the Gila, more than four hundred miles in length, can be made with proper exertion to yield plentiful crops. The Pimos Indians, who live in villages on the Gila, one hundred and seventy miles from its mouth, raise large crops of cotton, wheat, and corn, and have for years supplied the thousands of emigrants who traverse the Territory en route to California. These Indians manufacture their cotton into blankets of fine texture and beautiful pattern, which command a high price. They also grind their corn and wheat, and make bread. In fact, the Pimos realize in their everyday life something of our ideas of Aztec civilization. A town will probably grow up just above the Pimos villages, as there is a rich back country, and the streams afford a valuable water power for running mills.

The valley of the Santa Cruz traverses the territory from South to North, sinking near the town of Tueson, and probably finding its way to the Gila, as a subterranean stream. This valley, of the richest land, is about one hundred miles long, in many places of great width, and has on each side of it many rich valleys of limited extent, watered by streams from the mountains, which flow into the Santa Cruz. The valleys and Ranches of Arivaca, Sopori, Calabazas, and Tueson, are those at present most thickly settled. These produce all the fruits known to a Southern clime--grapes, wheat, corn, and cotton in great abundance. The San Pedro river and valley is also one of great richness, and is reported by Lieut. Parke as capable of sustaining a large population. The Valle de Sauz, still farther East, more limited than the San Pedro or Santa Cruz, can be made available for a considerable population. The Mimbres River also can, by a small outlay, be made to irrigate a large surface and supply a moderate settlement. The various springs laid down by Gray, Emory, Parke, and Bartlett, will all afford water for small settlements, and their supply can be much increased by a judicious outlay of money. The Rio Grande valley is very rich, and in places of great width. The Mesilla valley already contains a population of about five thousand souls, and there is ample room for many more.

If, as proposed, the Northern boundary of the Arizona Territory should enclose the Northern branches of the Gila, an agricultural region will be opened to settlement sufficient in itself to sustain the population of an immense agricultural State. Col. Bonneville, who is now at the head of a large force exploring this region, writes to the Secretary of War that it is the finest country he has ever seen, "valleys capable of sustaining a population of twenty thousand each, teeming at every step with evidences of an immense population long ago-and an ancient and superior civilization." The Hon. John R. Bartlett says of the "Salinas," one of the Northern branches of the Gila, that it alone will supply food for a great State. It must be recollected, in this connection, that the great mineral wealth of Arizona will call for and amply repay for the redemption and expensive cultivation of all the available lands, and that irrigation produces immensely greater crops than the other method of planting. Throughout the whole of Utah, irrigation has been resorted to with the greatest success. The soil in Utah, in no place that the writer saw it, could in any way be compared to that of the bottom lands of Arizona.

Captain Whipple in his valuable report of exploration for the Pacific Railroad, published by order of Congress, crossed the upper part of the region alluded to, and which is watered by the Rio Verde and Salinas. He fully sustains me in my remarks on those rich valleys.

"We are in the pleasantest region we have seen since leaving the Choctaw country. Here are clear rivulets, with fertile valleys and forest trees. The wide belt of country that borders the Black Forest, and probably extends along the Rio Verde to the Salinas and Gila, bears every indication of being able to support a large agricultural and pastoral population. The valley of the Rio Verde is magnificently wooded with furs and oaks, affording excellent timber. Ancient ruins are said by trappers to be scattered over its whole length to the confluence with the Salinas. We, therefore, seem to have skirted the boundary of a country once populous, and worthy of becoming so again. Besides the advantages already enumerated, the mountains in this vicinity bear indications of mineral wealth. Vol. 3, p. 93."

The notes before referred to, in the possession of the writer, speak of great farming and grazing establishments scattered over the whole face of the Territory, between 1610 and 1800, which produced abundant crops of cereals, fruits, and grapes. These statements are confirmed by the testimony of Major Emory and his report, where he enumerates several of the most extensive--by Gray, Bartlett, Parke, and Col. Bonneville. Many of the Ranches, deserted by the Mexicans on account of the Apache Indians, have upon them large, well-built adobe houses which must have cost the builders thousands of dollars. Many of these have been occupied under squatter titles by emigrants within the last few years. Of others, only the ruins remain, having been destroyed by the depredations of the Indians, or by the heavy rains of the succeeding years.

The greater portion of these lands on the Santa Cruz and San Pedro are covered by Mexican titles--and many of these again by squatter claims. It is absolutely necessary that Congress should by some wise and speedy legislation settle, upon some definite basis, the land titles of Arizona. Until this is done, disorder and anarchy will reign supreme over the country. The present condition of California is in a great degree to be attributed to the want of any title to the most valuable real property in the State, and the millions which have been spent in fruitless litigation should teach a lesson of great practical value. Let those Spanish grants and Mexican titles which have been occupied in good faith be affirmed in the most expeditious and economical manner to the claimants, and they will immediately pass into American hands, and become productive. The remainder of the country should then be thrown open to settlers. No better code of mining law exists than the Spanish, adopted in the Senate bill introduced by the late General Rusk, and passed at the last session of Congress. A judicious and liberal donation law, giving to the actual settler a homestead, and to the enterprising miner and "prospector" a fair security for the fruit of his labors, will at once make of Arizona a popular, thriving and wealthy State, affording new markets for the productions of our Atlantic States, and yielding annually millions in silver and copper.

In addition to the produce of Arizona, the immediate vicinity of the agricultural region of Sonora affords an abundant market for all necessary supplies, including sugar, which is manufactured by the Mexicans in great quantities from the cane. Guyamas, which one day will be ours, is one of the largest ports for the export of flour on the Pacific coast north of Chili. She also exports several millions in silver annually, which finds its way direct to the English market. Under an intelligent system, the Sonora mines would yield a hundred millions a year, and the supply is inexhaustible. If any reader doubts this statement, refer him to the statistics of Humboldt, Ward, and Wilson, most unquestioned and valuable authorities. Both Humboldt and Ward note the fact that the silver deposites grow richer as they are traced farther North. There can be no doubt that the most extensive and valuable mines, both of pure silver and silver mixed with copper and lead, are within the limits of Arizona.

The yield of the silver mines of Mexico, as computed by Ward and Humboldt from the actual official returns to the Government, from the conquest to 1803, amounts to the enormous sum of $2,027,955,000, or more than two BILLIONS Of dollars. Again, Ward says: "I am aware that many of the statements in this and the preceding books respecting the mineral riches of the North of New Spain, (Sonora, including the 'Gadsden Purchase,' Chihuahua, and Durango,) will be thought exaggerated. THEY ARE NOT SO; they will be confirmed by every future report, and in after years, the public, FAMILIARIZED WITH facts which are only questioned because they are new, will wonder at its present incredulity, and regret the loss of advantages which may not always be within its reach."

Of the present mining operations in the Territory of Arizona, the most considerable, in point of labor performed and results, is "The Arizona Copper Mining Co." This company is incorporated by the California Legislature, with a capital of one million of dollars. The President is Major Robert Allen, U. S. A. The mines are old, and very celebrated in Mexico under the name of El-Ajo. This company, at an expense of $100,000, have supplied their mines with an abundance of water, extracted several hundred tons of ore, and erected buildings, smelting furnaces, and other appliances to facilitate their operations. They employ about one hundred men, mostly Mexican miners. Their supplies of breadstuffs and beef are obtained by contract from Sonora. These mines are situated one hundred and thirty miles from the mouth of the Gila River, and about sixty miles south of it. The ore varies in richness from thirty to sixty per cent, and the proceeds of some sales in London were quoted as being the highest prices ever paid for ore in that market. A portion of this mine is owned by English capitalists, and it is without doubt one of the most valuable in the world. The profits may be easily calculated, when it is known that the ore costs delivered in Swansea, England, not exceeding $125 per ton, and is worth from $200 to $375 per ton. Of course these profits will be greatly increased when the company is in a position to smelt its ores at the mine. The Sonora Exploring and Mining Company was organized in 1856, with a capital of two million dollars ($2,000,000). Its principal office is in Cincinnati, Ohio, and its seat of operations at Tubac, in the Santa Cruz valley. This company is managed in its mining operations by Chas. D. Poston, Esq., a gentleman of much experience on the Pacific coast, and of great energy of character.