Part 1
Transcribed from the 1856 Melville and Co. edition by David Price, email [email protected]. Many thanks to Norfolk and Norwich Millennium Library, UK, for kindly allowing their copy to be used for this transcription.
[Picture: Book cover]
MELVILLE AND CO.’S Directory & Gazetteer
OF
NORWICH, YARMOUTH, DEREHAM, SWAFFHAM, Wymondham, Fakenham, Thetford, ATTLEBOROUGH, AYLSHAM, DISS, REEPHAM, FOULSHAM, HINGHAM, &C.; IPSWICH, BURY ST. EDMUND’S, WOODBRIDGE, Lowestoft, Beccles, Bungay, HALESWORTH, EYE, STOWMARKET, NEEDHAM MARKET, &C.;
CONTAINING
A Descriptive Account of each Place, FOLLOWED BY A DIRECTORY.
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_Price to Non-subscribers_, 10_s._ 6_d._
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PRINTED FOR THE PROPRIETORS BY JARROLD & SONS, LONDON STREET, NORWICH.
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JARROLD AND SONS, 47, ST. PAUL’S CHURCHYARD, LONDON; AND LONDON STREET, NORWICH.
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PREFACE.
In submitting this Work to the Public, the Publishers beg respectfully to tender their sincere thanks to the numerous Subscribers who have honoured them with their patronage; also those Gentlemen who have so liberally furnished them with information.
Messrs. M. and Co. trust that the arrangement of the Directory will meet the approbation of their supporters, as the greatest care has been taken to render it as correct as it is possible for a work of this description to be. The Proprietors are determined that neither expense nor labour shall be spared in the production of their works.
F. R. MELVILLE & CO.
_Norwich_, _August_, 1856.
INDEX.
PAGE Attleborough 133 Aylsham 145 Bawburgh 112 Beccles 197 Beeston St. Andrew 112 Bixley 113 Blofield 113 Bowthorpe 113 Bradestone 114 Bramford 253 Bramerton 115 Bromeswell 258 Buckenham Ferry 115 Bungay 202 Bury St. Edmund’s 259 Caistor 115 Carlton St. Mary 116 Catton 116 Copdock 256 Costessey 117 Cringleford 117 Dereham 152 Diss 148 Drayton 118 Dunston 118 Eaton 118 Eye 211 Fakenham 142 Foulsham 163 Freston 256 Halesworth 207 Hellesdon 119 Hethersett 120 Hillington 120 Hingham 135 Honingham 121 Horsham St. Faith’s 121 Intwood 122 Ipswich 227 Kesgrave 254 Keswick 122 Ketteringham 122 Kirby Bedon 122 Lowestoft 189 Marsham 123 Martlesham 255 Melton (Great) 119 Melton (Little) 123 Melton, near Woodbridge 257 Mulbarton 124 Needham Market 218 Norwich, History 1 „ Directory 17 ,, Public Offices and Institutions 105 Panxworth 124 Plumstead (Great) 119 Plumstead (Little) 123 Rackheath 125 Reepham 161 Rockland St. Mary 125 Rushmere 254 Spixworth 126 Stowmarket 214 Strumpshaw 126 Swaffham 157 Swainsthorpe 126 Swardeston 126 Sutton 258 Thetford 137 Thorpe 127 Trowse Newton 128 Tuddenham 256 Washbrook 257 Watton 164 Westerfield 255 Wherstead 256 Whitton 254 Witton 128 Woodbridge 221 Wramplingham 128 Wymondham 129 Yarmouth 166
NORWICH.
Norwich is a city and county of itself, and the largest on the eastern side of England. It is distant 108 miles N.E. by N. from London; 43 miles N. from Ipswich; 42 miles E. by S. from Lynn Regis; 19 miles W. from Yarmouth; and 72 miles N.E. from Cambridge. Its population, according to the census of 1851, was 68,195 inhabitants, and it has 36 parishes.
It is delightfully situated on the banks of the river Wensum, and at one time contained so many gardens and pleasure grounds, as to be frequently termed “_a city in an orchard_.” The streets of Norwich have of late years been much improved; they are well paved, and contain some good shops. In the environs are some beautiful walks, and villa residences of the inhabitants.
The MARKET PLACE is a fine oblong square, surrounded with shops. In the centre there formerly stood a cross, which was erected in the reign of Edward III., and contained a small chapel, or oratory, which was taken down in 1732. Opposite the GENTLEMAN’S WALK is a fine statue of the late Duke of Wellington, erected in 1854. The statue of Lord Nelson, which until lately stood near the Guildhall, is now removed to a more suitable situation in the Upper Close. The market days are Wednesday and Saturday—the latter the principal one; and no market is better supplied with the necessaries and comforts of life. The Skin Market is held in the Old Haymarket, opposite the Savings’ Bank. The Fish Market is held behind the houses on the west side, and is well supplied. Norwich is considered exceedingly healthy. It is defended from the easterly winds by the Mousehold Hills, which, combined with the abundance of springs in the city and its suburbs, and the Health of Towns’ Act, render it an extremely healthy locality.
Norwich seems to have arisen from the ruin of _Venta Icenorum_, now Caister, the capital of the Iceni, 3 miles south. In 575, it is said to have been fortified by Uffa, first king of the East Angles. In 642, it was a chief seat of his successor Anna. In the time of Alfred the Great, and afterwards, it was attacked by the Danes, and became the capital of Guthrum. The place rose to importance, and had a mint; and in the reign of Edward the Confessor it was of that greatness, that it had 25 churches, and 1,320 burgesses. In 1094, Bishop Herbert de Losinga moved the see here from Thetford. This bishop, in 1096, began the cathedral. In 1336, a number of Flemish weavers settled here, and greatly improved the worsted and clothing trades. In 1565, a further accession of these artizans was obtained, in consequence of the persecution in the Netherlands.
Next to Manchester, London and Glasgow, Norwich is one of the largest seats of the weaving trade. The previous remarks shew that it is of great antiquity; and the trade has taken fresh vigour from the introduction of the factory system. The chief productions are bombazines, crapes, gauzes, challis, mousselin de laine, fillover shawls, silk shawls, bandannas, camlets, mohair, paramattas, poplins, bareges, glove cloths, sewing cotton, coach lace, horse hair, sacking, sailcloth, &c. There are also dyeries, foundries, machine works, tanneries, breweries, maltkilns, coach works, rope works, chemical works, soaperies, paper mills, pianoforte and organ works, and the boot and shoe trade employ several hundred hands. Norwich has a Chamber of Commerce.
The city and county of the city are governed by a corporation, consisting of a mayor, 16 aldermen, and 48 councillors, with a sheriff, under-sheriff, recorder, judge of the borough court, town-clerk, clerk of the peace, coroner, jailer, superintendent of police, four sergeants-at-mace, water-bailiff, bellman, &c. There is a separate commission of the peace, with 26 justices, holding quarter sessions and daily sessions. The Borough Court is held every day. There is also a Court of Pleas and Court of Conscience. The revenues of the corporation are about £15,000 a year. The city returns two Members to Parliament. Assizes and quarter sessions for the county and city are held at the usual periods. There is a County Court; Will and Ecclesiastical Courts are held for the diocese and archdeaconry. There is a large fair for horses and cattle, called Tombland Fair, held on the day before Good Friday, and pleasure fairs at Easter and Whitsuntide.
NORWICH CASTLE is situated on the summit of a hill, nearly in the centre of the city. It has a most striking appearance, and is full of interest, both to the antiquary, artist, and historian. A stone erection, or royal castle, is believed to have been built here on Uffa’s intrenchments, about the year 642, and was one of the chief seats of Anna, king of the East Angles. It was often attacked and nearly destroyed by the Danes, but was partly rebuilt by Canute, after he had obtained sole power in England. Mr. Wilkins says, although the greater part of it might be built in the reign of Canute, “it is, notwithstanding, in the style of architecture practised by the Saxons, long before England became subject to the Danes, and is the best exterior specimen of this kind of architecture extant.” The promontory on which the keep of this castle is built, appears to be chiefly the work of nature, excepting what has, probably, been thrown out from the inner vallum; for it may be observed that the ground from the castle, for the best part of a mile southwards, is nearly level with the upper ballium, although it dips to the west, and most rapidly to the east. The area of the whole castle, including the three ditches which circumscribed it, could not be less than twenty-three acres; and the principal entrance was from Berg or Burgh street, _i.e._, the street leading to the castle—through the barbican or advanced work at the entrance of the castle over a bridge—across the outward vallum which was at the south end of what is now called Golden Ball street.
The _interior_ of the castle has undergone such a number of alterations, with the view of adapting it to its use as a county gaol, that all traces of its ancient apartments have long been lost. It formerly contained a royal chapel, free from ecclesiastical control, and dedicated to St. Nicholas. The first rural dean of the deanery of Norwich, in 1221, pretended to spiritual jurisdiction in this chapel, but for his temerity was obliged to supplicate forgiveness from the king.
The castle was originally defended by three walls and ditches; each ditch having a bridge over it. The outer ditch has been filled up from time immemorial. The middle one was levelled in the last century: traces of it may be discovered on the north side, where the yards of the houses are often from 18 to 20 feet below the road. The inner ditch extended round the bottom of the hill upon which the keep is standing, and is now a tasteful plantation with a gravelled walk in the centre, bounded by an iron palisading. It is worthy notice that the space within this palisading, although in the centre of the city boundary, is the property of the county. The bridge which crossed the inner ditch is still standing, and consists of one large circular arch, 40 feet in span. It is supposed that this is the original bridge erected by the Saxons: at its termination upon the hill are the remains of two circular towers, which are believed to have flanked the portal of the ballium wall. Upon this bridge the county criminals are executed: the thoughts of the visitor will probably recur to one, who a few years since suffered for crimes unparalleled in atrocity.
The fine panoramic view which a walk round the summit of the hill affords, will not soon be forgotten by a stranger. We may venture to assert that no town in the kingdom contains in its centre an elevation which affords so extensive and agreeable a promenade. All the churches and public buildings in the city may be distinctly seen, bounded in the distance by Mousehold Heath, and the pleasant villages of Costessey, Thorpe, Catton, Bixley, and Whitlingham.
At the east end of the castle stands the NEW COUNTY GAOL, erected in 1824 upon the site of a less convenient building, pulled down for the purpose. It is surrounded by a high wall cased with granite, and surmounted by battlements. The interior is commodious, well adapted for the health of the prisoners, and in every respect suited for proper prison regulations. The governor’s house faces the entrance, and commands an entire view of the various parts of the building. Besides the family apartments, it contains a committee-room for the visiting magistrates, and a chapel for the prisoners. From this, branch three wings, each of which contains a double row of cells upon the upper and ground floors. Crossing these, are single rows of cells, and an arcade for the perambulations of the prisoners when the weather will not allow their walking in the yard. Behind these are three other wings with arcades below, and upon the upper floor, double rows of cells: in all there are 225 cells, and the average number of prisoners is about 120. The tread-mill here is not altogether “labour in vain;” for attached to it is a machine for raising water. Not only is the silent system adopted, but at the mill each prisoner is separated from his neighbour by a wooden partition. Industry is the order of the day; mat-making—oakum-picking—carpentry—shoe-making, and other useful occupations, tend to make the prisoners contributors to the cost of their maintenance. A schoolmaster is kept, and every official is considered his auxiliary. The chaplain and governor are both known to be indefatigable in their efforts to create in the minds of the prisoners a distaste for vicious pursuits; and in not a few instances have they been attended with complete success.
Upon the spacious declivity at the foot of the bridge is held the CATTLE MARKET, the largest in England (London excepted). The market is held every Saturday, and upon that day the visitor will have an opportunity of witnessing such a show of agricultural live stock as no other provincial town can furnish. Moreover, he will not fail to be interested in the portly appearance and rich _brogue_ of the principal actors in the busy scene; for various specimens of the “Norfolk Farmer” may here be seen to full perfection; and we would strongly advise that the chance be not neglected.
On the north-east side of the castle, at the bottom of the hill, stands the SHIREHALL, erected in 1822, and opened in the following year. It is an imitation of the later period of the pointed style of architecture. The County Assizes and Sessions are held in this building, which by a subterranean passage and ascending shaft, communicates with the castle above. There are two courts, and other convenient rooms. In the Grand Jury Chamber is a full-length portrait of one of Norfolk’s most celebrated worthies—the late Thomas William Coke, Esq., Earl of Leicester; and also one of Lord Wodehouse. Upon the spacious plain, fronting the Shirehall, is held the Annual (Tombland) Fair, which commences on Maunday Thursday, and terminates upon Easter Tuesday. The newly-erected building to the north-west of the Shirehall, is the COUNTY POLICE STATION.
The GUILDHALL is an ancient building, situated at the north-west end of the Market-place, and is used for an assize and sessions court, for a police station, and for the meetings of the Town Council, and various other purposes. The building is an erection of black flint, the cornices, window frames, and battlements being of freestone. Some of the original windows, with flowered points to the cusps, are still remaining; but the greater part are modern, as are also the additions upon the south, where formerly was a chapel dedicated to St. Barbara, in which the prisoners assembled for divine worship; upon the site of this is a porch, ornamented with a gilt figure of Justice. Adjoining the east side is the POLICE OFFICE. In the front of the building, towards the Market-place, are square panels, with remains of shields and supporters of the time of Henry VIII. The interior is chiefly modern, with the exception of the room called the Mayor’s Council Chamber, which retains much of the furniture of the time of king Henry VIII. It is situated at the east end upon the second floor, and is adorned with half-length portraits of many of the ancient civic notables and benefactors of the city, amongst which will be found Lord Chief Justice Coke, Archbishop Parker, and many others; the full-length portrait on the left side of the entrance is Sir Benjamin Wrench; that on the right is Thomas Emerson, Esq. In the windows is painted glass of various periods. The greatest object of attraction in this room is a glass case, containing the sword of the Spanish Admiral Don Xavier Winthuysen, who died of his wounds at the battle of Cape St. Vincent, February 14th, 1797. It was presented to the corporation of the city by Lord Nelson. Within the case is the letter which accompanied the presentation, and which is in the hand-writing of the great naval chieftain. Opposite this room is the old Common Council Chamber, in which the mayor and magistrates hold a petty sessions daily. It contains fine full-length portraits of Elisha de Hague, Town Clerk, 1825, and other civic worthies.
The Court in which the Assizes are held is upon the ground floor toward the west; and there are several smaller apartments in the building devoted to municipal purposes, in some of which are the regalia of the corporation, including the snap or dragon, formerly carried before the mayor on his election; the gold chains worn by the mayor and sheriffs; the sword of state, presented by St. George’s Company in 1705: a curious mace of silver gilt, with beautiful crystal, presented by Queen Elizabeth; two maces of silver gilt, presented by the Duke of Norfolk and Sir Robert Walpole in 1670 and 1734, with other civic paraphernalia.
ST. ANDREW’S HALL is a very noble structure, and is in the pointed style of architecture. Its length is 124 feet, and there are two aisles 70 feet broad. The roof is supported by twelve pillars, and there are fourteen windows on each side in the upper tier, and six in the lower, two in the east, and three in the west end, which were formerly decorated with stained glass. Originally there was a handsome steeple in the centre, which fell down in 1812. The Hall is principally used for the festivals, concerts, public meetings, and various other purposes.
The PUBLIC LIBRARY is opposite the Guildhall. It is a handsome edifice, with Doric portico, and contains about 30,000 volumes, including a valuable collection of books, called the City Library. The library is open from ten in the morning till nine in the evening, except from the first of May till the end of August, when it closes at eight, p.m. There is a reading-room attached for the convenience of readers.
The CORN EXCHANGE is situated in Exchange Street, which commences at the north end of the Gentlemen’s Walk. It is a large structure erected in 1828, at a cost of £6000. It is about 120 feet long, 90 feet broad, and 27 feet high, and is supported by two rows of pillars. The building is principally lighted from the roof. At the east end are portraits of John Culley, Esq., the originator of the building, and Thomas William Coke, of Holkham, afterwards Earl of Leicester, justly regarded as the father of Norfolk agriculture.
The CHAMBER OF COMMERCE is situated at a short distance from the Corn Exchange. It is a handsome building, ornamented in front by Corinthian columns and pilasters, surmounted by an entablature. It contains a well-supplied Reading-room, which is open to strangers gratuitously.
The POST OFFICE is situated in Post-Office Street, which is approached from the Market-Place, by Exchange Street. It is a convenient though not an attractive-looking building. There are two London deliveries daily.
The NORFOLK AND NORWICH MUSEUM is in St. Andrew’s Broad Street. It is a handsome building, with commanding exterior, erected in 1839. Its contents are varied, extensive, and complete. The birds especially are very numerous, a large portion of them being foreign. The mammalia include many valuable specimens; and one of the largest provincial collections of animals from Australia is to be found within these walls. Amongst the fossils are some rare specimens of animals long since extinct. The shells and minerals are deserving attention, as is also the entomological department. The antiquities exhibit many remarkable articles; the coins and seals are particularly worthy the attention of the curious. There is also a valuable botanical collection, which contains the Herbarium of the eminent botanist, Sir James E. Smith. The Museum is open free every Monday, and on other days visitors are admitted on the production of an order from one of its members.
The LITERARY INSTITUTION. This society occupies several rooms in the same building as the Museum. It contains an excellent and rapidly increasing Library of about 15,000 volumes.
Adjacent to the Museum is the FREE LIBRARY, a spacious and convenient building, erected in 1856, upon a part of the site of the ancient palace of the Dukes of Norfolk.
The BAZAAR is a handsome structure, in St. Andrew’s Broad Street, erected in 1831, by a company of shareholders, and now let for various purposes. One portion of the building is occupied by the Government School of Design, in which instruction is given in drawing, painting, modelling, and designing.
The ASSEMBLY ROOMS are at the south end of an open plain, in the parish of St. Stephen, and were erected in 1754 upon the site of the College of St. Mary in the Fields. Public meetings are occasionally held here, and the proprietors of the leading exhibitions of the kingdom, during their stay in this city, generally fix their paraphernalia in one or other of the convenient compartments of this spacious building.