Chapter 16

Camp 27, or Jack's Swamp after our unfortunate horse; poor old fellow, many a score miles he carried me till some time ago he got a little lame and has never done so well since. No dew last night. Bell is, as he has always been, a day complaining and a day well; Davis something similar; Middleton has now got quite well and the rest of us are all pretty right but would be all the better of a change of food for the better; none of us appear very energetic on horse-food; unfortunately maggots got into it and did not improve it either in appearance or quality, but we are not over nice now. Plenty of splendid timber in this part of the country. Wind rather strong from north and continues steady in that quarter. Trying today to jerk a portion of the horse to cause what we have got to spin out. A good many fleecy clouds flying about early part of afternoon and the wind has changed a little to the west of north. In our present state we don't want to see any rain till we get into the stations, as now we are tentless and of course have nothing to cover the sick in case of wet. Late in the afternoon wind considerably to the west, at sunset quite a calm, very cloudy and every appearance of rain, trust that it will blow off. A great number of large-sized kangaroos here but rather shy. Although there is abundance of grass of different kinds here the camels eat but little of it and do very badly; about the lakes north-east of Lake Torrens is the place for them; they eat nearly everything in the shape of grass and shrubs that grow there, but here it is quite different; but few acacias here of which they are very fond.

Wednesday, July 2.

Camp, Jack's Swamp. No rain last night and but little dew; the clouds have all dispersed. Wind from north varying to east and west of that point and a beautiful hot day. The horses appearing to do well. Maitland improving; Kirby about the same, also Palmer.

Thursday, July 3.

Camp, Jack's Swamp. Little dew again last night, wind northerly and easterly throughout the day, sun rather warm but not disagreeably so. The hills hereabouts are composed of substrata of decomposing sandstone with roots growing or dead in the fissures, the top rugged at and near the crest, with a description of stone like decaying burnt brick, broken into fragments although apparently united; very precipitous and often overhanging near the tops of the ranges, with table-tops, generally scrubby, still with good timber even on top and where it is more open, fair grass in places and spinifex in others, with heavy deep ravines down the slopes on all sides and well-grassed and timbered in the valleys. From the top of range near our camp one has an extensive view; southward is a large valley, the receiver of all the drainage of the hills east and west of it; south the range is low and over it can be discerned several conical wooded hills of greater and lesser sizes; beyond them in the distance can be seen two considerable ranges from north-north-east to south-south-west; at the latter point they suddenly terminate in nearly precipitous bluffs, showing that there must be a stream of some importance skirting that end of them, or some extensive valley; an easy way of arriving at them would be south from this camp and over the low dividing ridge; the waters or creeks in this valley, after uniting into one or more large courses, flow to north and east till they pass east of this a few miles off; further view is intercepted by the ranges north and east of that. Maitland appears much better today and Kirby I think is improving a little; Palmer is not quite so well. I hope he will soon get over his illness; he is a very useful man; neither shoeing horses nor almost anything comes wrong to him; indeed he has shod all the horses I may say since he joined the party, and has been a very useful fellow.

Friday, July 4.

Camp 27, Jack's Swamp. Very cold during the night. Every appearance of a nice day. What little wind there is is from north. We start from this with 46 pounds of dried horse flesh which I hope will be sufficient to carry us to stations on the Burdekin. The invalids and animals have improved during their stay here, and we start this morning on about our last bearing generally, although we cannot go direct from the hilliness of the country. Bearing 62 1/2 degrees. All round this quarter quartz of colours is strewed over the face of the country in addition to the decomposing stones. Started at 8.6 a.m. firstly up the swamp side northerly a short distance, then easterly over a saddle in the range for the eastern slopes towards the main drainage to the northwards. At half a mile on top of the saddle in the range with drainage to the east. Then had to keep a little northerly of our course to avoid a rugged range on the right. At about eleven miles direct struck the main drainage creek (Ross's Creek after W. Ross, Esquire, Mulma, Murray, New South Wales) but the actual distance travelled was considerably over that. Then followed the creek on a bearing of about 20 degrees off and on. At one and a quarter miles it receives a considerable tributary from west-south-west (Cole's Creek after S. Cole, Esquire, Commissioner of Crown Lands, Euston, New South Wales). A large mass of hard dark-coloured, slaty-coloured rock in the centre of the two creeks with a passage on each side. At four miles it receives a very deep but narrow creek from the west (Beveridge's Creek after Peter Beveridge, Esquire, Swan Hill, Victoria). Obliged to get into the main creek to pass it. Plenty of water and feed. Camped. A splendid creeper (scarlet) is here upon a number of trees, climbing to their very top. The fruit is very showy, oblong and quite the size of an orange but tastes exceedingly nauseous, full of pulpy seeds, birds and opossums eat them. After getting to camp went to top of a high range at three-quarter mile distant east-south-east. From it I had an extensive view. At 40 degrees easy to pass through range. From 82 to 90 degrees very mountainous. 5 degrees a very extensive valley apparently inclining westwards. Blacks burning at 10 degrees in the distance. North is a large irregular peak range; in the distance another a little east of it.

Saturday, July 5.

Camp 28. Dewless night as was also the night before and several others previous. Very hot yesterday. Last night during the whole night the sky was completely overcast and close, this morning the same. The main creek here is well lined with gums and well-grown oaks, the bank fringed with reeds; low down is about fifty yards wide at the bottom level and twice that width at top and steep but grassed all down the slopes. The forest over which we travelled yesterday was very much cut up with sudden and deep watercourses, making the travelling more difficult, and in many places was stony (brown stone). Started at 8.23 a.m., the horses having ranged rather far. Crossed the creek and on bearing of 22 degrees along it pretty good travelling through open timber, till at about two and three-quarter miles the creek came too close under a range to allow us to follow anywhere near its banks. Ascended the range and at three miles the creek on the left changed course to from 40 to 45 degrees; sometimes to the north of that, at other times to the south of it. At a short distance over the flat, after descending the range which was of no great elevation, came on the creek again and followed it on the above bearing. As we struck the creek the footprints of two horses in the bed of the creek, and shortly after more and more, which at first led us to suppose that the country was stocked thus far up; but after following along in the bed we found the traces to be all about the same age and that some time back. At length on right side of creek on the bank, at the distance on our last course of three and a quarter miles, we saw the remains of an old camp, ridge pole, and uprights, with the letter K cut on a couple of gumtrees, which at once led us to believe it was some party or other marking the boundaries of their runs. Got up out of the creek at this place and went on bearing of about 20 to 25 degrees. Immediately after starting on this bearing we passed over rather open ground with spinifex but not very strong. The creek now out of sight on the left. At three and one-eighth of a mile struck what I take to be the Burdekin, but no tracks of drays or stock of any kind up this length. It flows east at this place. Went about three-quarters of a mile on this course and two of the horses becoming knocked up I am obliged to halt. What told upon them so much today was that the banks of the creek were so rugged we were obliged to travel in the loose sand in the bed of the creek. We hope to make better progress tomorrow. From here the river appears to flow about 15 degrees north of east but that won't continue far; I imagine we are a little above the junction of the Perry with this river. The bed of the Burdekin at this camp is about from 90 to 100 yards, and the strong-running stream is confined between bergues on the north side to a space of about twenty yards, and little better than knee-deep. Only a few small fish visible. Magnificent gums on its banks and plenty of excellent timber in every direction. This will be a most difficult part of the country for drays travelling on account of the many steep-sided creeks. At anything like a flood quite impracticable.

Sunday, July 6.

Camp 29. Last evening the wind blew for a short time fresh from east by north then lulled down; shortly after the sky became overcast and during the night we had a light Scotch mist; this morning no wind but sky overcast with every appearance of rain. We tried some green hide that we were reserving for camel's boots in our soup of this morning, and being pickled in salt when taken from the bullock it imparted quite an agreeable flavour to our scanty meal and we all enjoyed it much. Some of the party put up badly with this short diet and appear to get quite dispirited, although at sight of the tracks yesterday they are quite elated, but it was only for a short time to become further depressed after. Horses all about amongst the bergues and high grass; late at starting. Started at 9.12 a.m.; for the first three and three-quarter miles through open forest, good country; large oak creek from the south-west joins the river at that distance. Our course to this was to south of east-south-east nearly south-east; the river then bears east for some distance, then north, then south, and afterwards to about south-east; first part through some exceedingly intricate country, hills close on the river with deep ravines and most difficult travelling. In its present state no dray in the world could pass by it; first of all we got one of the camels down in a creek, next one of the horses rolled over into the creek and we had to make a road for them at last to descend into the creek; now into and along the bed of the river; now up the steep banks and then up stony hills to head, or more easily cross the ravines, which was very trying to our animals, and finally completely knocked up one of the weak horses which was with much persuasion got to the camp in the afternoon after the camp was formed. After arriving he was killed and we commenced to use his flesh to save the other dry meat as we must spare a day here to refresh the animals; the latter part of the day's journey was over rather better travelling; the hills still close to the river with deep ravines. On this last bearing fully six miles on the opposite or left bank of the river, at about two miles distance from our camp here a large creek with abundance of running water joins from north-west by north through apparently a not prepossessing country, very hilly and little or no valley belonging to it; in travelling along the bed of the river occasionally the bed is of a quicksand nature and very heavy. Sun quite overcast all day, at night it cleared off. Wind south-east.

Monday, July 7.

Camp 30. Although the stars were out during the night and no dew we have it very cloudy again today. I went to top of one of the highest hills on right bank of river today and had an extensive view. The river appears to bear nearly east generally for the north end of some large mountains in that direction, at which place I think the river receives the River Perry from the north and then flows south. Between the hill I was on and that there appears to be a good deal of level-looking country, and the hills on this side seem in a great measure to cease a short distance off. In every other direction it is rugged with high broken hills and an indifferent grass upon them with the exception of the very limited flats near the river, on which latter there is always abundance of good feed and splendid timber. Wind still from south-east by east but little of it. The creek that joins this river about two miles up coming from north-west by north I have called Clark's Creek after Walter Clark, Esquire, of Deep Creek near Melbourne. The banks of the river are here very steep and difficult of access.

Tuesday, July 8.

Camp 30. Heavy dew last night; foggy this morning. Very dense vegetation along the banks and bergues of the river. The fish seen as yet are but small, the largest are of the catfish kind. Started at 8.45 a.m., late, the horses, even with the abundance of feed here, having strayed in all directions. At one and three-quarter miles crossed narrow and deep running creek from south by east. One of the camels in going up the hill out of it tumbled over backwards, and detained us forty-two minutes. Then ascended stony hills to avoid the ravines close to the river. At four and a quarter miles a conical stony-topped hill close by on right, south, and south of that a swamp with poplar, gums, etc., river close on left, country open both sides of river, particularly opposite side to north-north-east; at five and three-quarter miles crossed creek from south-east (good, not broad nor deep but abundance of water) then undulating stony country with low-sized trees (stunted) river bearing northward; at seven and three-quarter miles crossed creek from south-east by east, a little water; at nine miles crossed narrow deep creek, bald-topped range of hills close ahead same side of river, running from north to south. The river here sweeps round the north end of them, making a considerable detour to north of east; we ascended the easiest of the ridges easterly to avoid the steep gullies, and saw the river taking a sweep south; I think it receives the Perry at its south bend. At twelve and a half miles on an easterly bearing changed course to south by west, or even west of that, over ridgy but good travelling and latterly flat country, well grassed, for two and three-quarter miles and camped, one of the camels refusing to travel, lying down occasionally. Distance travelled about fifteen and a quarter miles. I wish our animals were now in the same condition they were at Hayward's Creek and I would soon be at Port Denison. I am surprised that the squatting stations are not further advanced up this river. Our invalids are slowly recruiting. Has been a beautiful day.

Wednesday, July 9.

Camp 31. Heavy dew last night. To give the horses a chance of doing better last night they were let go without hobbles, and this morning they have strayed to some distance and again caused us to be late in starting. Started at 11.10 a.m. A number of natives must have been here on our arrival last afternoon but must have decamped very hastily on hearing us, leaving all their spears, cooking and cooked vegetables, food, etc. etc.; the food they were cooking in their ovens and what was lying cooked consisted of excellent roots of some kind or other, and a round fruit which they roast and which is very good. We used all the roots and found them most excellent and left in exchange a tomahawk, which no doubt will suit their purpose as well, and suited us much better. I took the precaution of carrying all their spears up to our camp, that in case they might return to their camp in the night they might not molest us; it saved us keeping watch but we neither saw nor heard anything of them except their dogs howling. Numbers of blue mountain parrots here, and a few ducks only. The river here is formidable and the banks rather steep for easy access. On the south-south-easterly course; at one and three-quarter miles crossed deep rocky creek with a little rainwater and very steep banks; at three and a quarter miles passed a lagoon, more lagoons off to the south-west under the low ridges; at six miles crossed a small oak creek from south-west by west; at seven and three-quarter miles crossed small good creek with plenty of water from south-west by west. Halted at a couple of lagoons, nine and a quarter miles. One of the camels we will be compelled to leave here; he has been a most useful animal; we will in consequence have to curtail further our little effects and leave many things behind. Our journey direct south-east and little south today has not been more than about seven miles. The lagoons which are deep run in a north-west by west half west course. Buried things we left at south side of ironbark tree fifty-two paces about west 28 degrees south of a marked tree and camp fire.

Thursday, July 10.

Camp 32. Ice in the quart pots this morning, the first we have seen during the whole of our wanderings up to this; but I once before saw where it had nipped off the young burnt feed before making the Burdekin. Have called this Coppin's lagoons after our camel that is left here. Started at 8.52 a.m. south-east about two and a half miles or so. At one and three-quarter miles on an easterly bearing crossed a rocky and sandy narrow deep creek from south by west with plenty of water in large holes; good travelling till we turned easterly, then a little ridgy; at three and a quarter miles a large creek from north-north-east joins the river in a bend; a large mount in about that direction. The river now suddenly turns south-east to south-south-east from east-north-east; at six and a quarter miles crossed the River Clarke and had a tumble, horse and all, heels over head into it; it had no stream but large sheets of water in its bed (sandy). From south-west by west the large range on opposite side of the Burdekin runs about east-south-east and west-north-west, splendid bold mounts; crossed oak creek from south-west by south at nine and three-quarter miles; from junction of this creek westerly end of mountain range, table-topped, beyond the Burdekin bears 341 degrees; at eleven and a quarter miles crossed small steep creek. The river, now closely confined between steep hills, kept along the stony bottom of the range for some time, but the camel turning over, and it being more rough ahead, was obliged to get into and follow the bed of the river for some distance. At twelve and three-quarter miles ascended the riverbank on same side; at thirteen and a quarter miles crossed very steep creek with water, and at fifteen miles halted at a small rocky creek on the ranges with water and feed sufficient for our use. Since ascending the banks out of the river our course has been about north 50 degrees east over a succession of stony ridges with some spinifex.

Friday, July 11.

Camp 33. Heavy dew last night. Started at 8.15 a.m. on same bearing over ridges till three and a quarter miles, being the point where Dr. Leichhardt descended the steep mount close by. From this point the mount and peak on opposite side of the river some distance off bears as follows: south-west of table top 280 degrees, north-east peak 331 1/2 degrees. Got into the bed of the river here comparatively easily and followed it down its rocky and sandy bed for some distance till obliged to turn out on the opposite side. A large island of rocks in the centre of the river and deep water on both sides, the hills precipitous into the river. We got up the opposite side pretty easily and followed it down, crossing a deep ravine and stony ridge, and recrossed at two and three-quarter miles on a bearing north of east, and crossed the river back again, very steep on the side we crossed from but good getting out, and came over ridgy, and latterly, basalt country, on bearing of about east-south-east, and camped on the opposite side of the river at three miles on last bearing, where there was a suitable place in the bed of the river for killing one of our horses which was completely knocked up. This camp is about two miles up from where the river takes a south-east bend and receives a river running into it at that bend. About one-quarter mile from it and nearer our camp another large running creek joins the Burdekin which I have called the Campbell after Dal. Campbell, Esquire, Melbourne. The larger one below, which is about one-third the width of the Burdekin but down which quite as great a supply of water is running, I have taken the liberty of calling the Bowen after His Excellency Sir G. Bowen, Governor of Queensland. The latter stream joins the Burdekin from north by east but comes from distant mountainous ranges to the east of north-east. The smaller stream the Campbell joins the Burdekin from north by west, but comes from north, or a little east of that, from a mountainous country. As seen from a hill close by to west of the Campbell the Burdekin there comes from a little north of west, and flows to south 20 degrees east, but not visible either way far.

Saturday, July 12, Sunday, July 13, Monday, July 14, 1862.

In camp, drying horseflesh; the wind from east; dewy, and at daylight foggy along the banks and valley of the river but soon clears off; we have had splendid weather for drying our meat. Caught some very nice fish but not sufficient to be of any real service. The timber is not anything like as large or so good as it is further up the river. The bed of the river here is from 400 to 500 yards wide. The horse Goliah has given us fifty-two pounds dry meat. We have shot a few crows, a cormorant, and a white eagle with blue back, to make a stew for breakfast, that with a little salted hide and about two pounds dried meat will make a very good meal as matters stand at present. The remainder of the dried meat and what we may shoot I hope will last us as far as the Farming River, which is about ninety miles from this, to which river I saw people start for from Sydney upwards of twelve months ago, and they must certainly be there now; perhaps we may be fortunate enough to meet them this side of that. I have been quite disappointed at not finding the stations much higher up the river even than where I now am.

Tuesday, July 15.