Chapter 10

Camp 31. Cool during the night with a heavy dew, beautiful morning, not a breath of wind: keeping a short distance from the creek to cross a boggy tributary from the east, for two and three-quarter miles, then through timbered stony rising ground, plenty of feed; the bronzed middle-sized pigeon of Cooper's Creek seen here; bearing of 40 degrees for two and a quarter miles along limestone and plum-pudding slopes; part of creek on left on bearing of 30 degrees for three and a quarter miles, timber for building purposes to be had here in sufficient quantities; bearing of 45 degrees for three-quarters of a mile; bearing 50 degrees for one mile; bearing of 40 degrees three-quarters of a mile over myall open country, some of it very stony where the flood has swept over it; now on the right are some fine plains backed in by low myall ridges; bearing of 42 degrees for four and three-quarter miles, the creek on the left, tributaries seem to come in and join on opposite side, cross a creek from east in its swamp, plenty of water (Kell's Creek); I have come to a stony crossing-place and recross over to north-west side; the female camel bogged but we soon got her put to rights; for the last three miles the ground we travelled over is nearly one mass of stones, limestone and agate or flint, and very bad travelling; the creek runs strong--I have called it Mueller's Creek after F. Mueller of Melbourne--fifteen and a half miles. After getting to camp got a horse and went out north of west to a ridge some short distance off and saw to the westward a large tributary that I think will suit my course; at little over quarter of a mile a very large creek comes in from north of north-east and flows southward, it has ceased running and has a broad stony bottom but has splendid reaches of water; this I have called the Robinson after J. Robinson, Esquire, of Hume River. Considerably to east is a well-defined range in the distance, running north and south with three detached mounds of hills and I have called it Mount Mueller after F. Mueller, Esquire.

Wednesday, April 9.

Camp 32. Heavy dew, beautiful still morning, a few fleecy clouds. Started, bearing of 285 degrees for one and a quarter miles, at three-eighths of a mile crossed the Robinson, at three-eighths of a mile further crossed a nice creek with large reaches, the Mansergh; at three-eighths of a mile further changed our mode of travel to the bearing of 330 degrees for two and a quarter miles; then bearing 354 1/2 degrees, spinifex hill or range close on the right, good open country travelled over; creek on the left about two miles off, alluvial deposit on plain, over which we travelled for six and three-quarter miles then entered a mulga range (low) bronzed stone on the ascent but plenty of feed and numerous traces of kangaroo. Saw lots of emu on the plains; still on bearing of 354 1/2 degrees to creek, passing on the right a vast quantity of spinifex and ranges of sandstone right on the banks of creek for three and a quarter miles, crossed it on a bearing of 284 degrees three-quarters of a mile, plenty of water, the creek I have called the Fletcher after G.B. Fletcher, Esquire, Tapio, Darling River, New South Wales; then bearing 295 degrees for Coronet-Topped Hill, centre of next creek, at three miles made the creek, went one quarter of a mile into it and camped; the last three miles has been a pipeclay, slaty, spinifex, miserable country with detached conical, white, clay-slaty hills, top of the range all spinifex, although timbered with a white-barrelled gum of no great dimensions; distance travelled today seventeen and a half miles.

Thursday, April 10.

Camp 33. Fine morning, wind moderate, south, on bearing of 300 degrees up the clear ground in the apparent centre of this immense creek; passed north end of stony (sand) spinifex-topped and pipeclay, north end at one and one-eighth of a mile; bearing of 315 degrees high bluff, spinifex-topped, hills all along at the right of creek, except the valley of the creek, this is the most miserable country we have been in for some time, if you offer to ascend the ridges they are nothing but a mass of very rough stones, spinifex, and mulga, myall, and white-stemmed gumtrees, very difficult to travel over, three miles on 315 degrees; obliged to change course, great part of the heavy creek, on my left, crossing my course, and bearing up more to eastward another creek bears off to considerably west of north, now on bearing of 285 degrees crossing the different branches of this immense creek which I have called the Cadell, after F. Cadell, Esquire, the enterprising and indefatigable navigator of the Murray and Darling, etc. etc., not that he will ever be able to steam up this length; 285 degrees for one and a quarter miles of other creeks that appear to go off on a bearing, at present, of 200 degrees, which I follow on its north-east side, or rather up through it, as it is divided into innumerable branches with abundance of water; camped at six and three-quarter miles on this course in the centre of the creek; the hills recede a good deal from the creek and are not so rough-looking or abrupt as they were in the morning and yesterday; the creek I have called Middleton, after Mr. Middleton, one of our party, who at all times has rendered me most material services and who, had I lost him during his late severe illness I should scarcely be able to get along without, he is always ready at the post when there is anything particular to do.

Friday, April 11.

Camp 34. Fine morning; wind moderate south. This creek receives a tributary from the southward of west about a quarter mile lower down than this. I shall pass through this creek to north-east side, that being the best and most open travelling, the south-west side having myall timber from the creek to the ranges as far as visible. If the country at all suits and, as my food cannot possibly carry me back to Adelaide, I shall shape my course for the southern part of the Gulf of Carpentaria about the Albert River, thence to Port Denison, then to wait instructions from South Australia. On bearing of 45 degrees; half a mile across the different branches of the immense creek, then on bearing of 314 degrees along splendid plains, passing at nine and a half miles a detached small tier of ranges running on to and ending at the creek; from the top of the nearest one the creek appears to bear through ranges 294 1/2 degrees; ranges on this side appear only detached and far distant from the creek, leaving magnificent plains intervening. A small red conical hill is close to the creek about a mile from this bearing 306 1/2 degrees. I now recross the creek on bearing of 294 1/2 degrees as it is more suitable for my purpose, the creek in the distance at its western bend bearing 305 degrees about nine miles distant, at which place it receives a tributary from the ranges to the eastward on the course of 294 1/2 degrees for eight and a half miles. Camping on south-western side of creek, passing over excellent country. Travelled today eighteen and a half miles. The creek that comes in on the opposite side I have called Saville's Creek. From this camp a coronet-shaped hill, at or near the termination of a tier of ranges approaching the creek within five miles, bears 30 degrees, a bluff termination of ranges from the creek on south-west side and on south-west of our tomorrow course bears 279 1/2 degrees, about eight to ten miles.

Saturday, April 12.

Camp 35. Fine morning. I have had to send back to last camp for a small saw, carelessly left behind by the cook. On bearing of 294 1/2 degrees on south-west side of creek direct, seven and a half miles through, the creek came direct in my course and sheered round again north before that distance; then bearing of 313 degrees for five and three-quarter miles, and camped, making the stage short to await the messenger for the saw. Wind south. Immense open downs or plains, well grassed with similar hills to what we have passed, wanting the spinifex. Messenger arrived with saw.

Sunday, April 13.

Camp 36. Evenings, nights, and mornings are beautifully cool; the days are quite hot enough. It is astonishing to see how fast the waters have dried up. I hope that near the tops of the creeks the water will not fail us, for up to this we have had lately much more than we want. Bearing of 336 degrees, on south-west side of creek still. Ranges now on the left and at the distance of from thirteen to fourteen miles, appear to come right on to the creek on both sides at two and a half miles; on bearing of 336 degrees. Tributary from south-west side; at five miles another tributary on same side; at six and three-quarter miles another. At fourteen miles the hills close, those on the north-east side nearer than the south-west side ones. At fourteen and a half miles tributary joins on opposite side from the hill close by. At fifteen and three-quarter miles hill (burned sandstone) comes on to the creek; the timber in the creek nearly all white gum, the North of Adelaide native orange, and a new fruit, something similar, that when ripe splits open down the sides whilst still green, and grows on a low prickly shrub, leaf not unlike the orange but longer and when near other trees or shrubs entwines itself round them and grows to a good height. The actual distance today direct is about fifteen miles, as the creek came in my course and receded again before we came to camp--camped across the creek. Kirby by some unfortunate mistake on his part did not arrive here tonight. Will send after him first thing in the morning; burnt a blue light and made a low fire on the top of the hill for him but without effect.

Monday, April 14.

No word of Kirby; sent after him, found him on the tracks some miles away, and did not get to camp till near noon. He says he got entangled in the creeks and could not make the tracks out. Lots of kangaroo and emu here but shy; cloudy and hot. Looks as if we were to have a shower; I wish we may. Camp here today.

Tuesday, April 15.

Camp 37. Late in starting, some horses being absent; nice cool breeze from north-north-east--bearing of 2 1/2 degrees; creek on the left at three-quarters of a mile, tributaries join on each side; at two and a half miles remarkable peaky and table-topped hills on right; hills close on both sides. At four and a half miles changed course to 8 degrees; at one and a half miles heavy tributary came in from east-south-east, and is I think the principal channel; completely ran the creek out north and then followed and ran out the principal one. Retreated twice and compelled to camp at a water in the flat a quarter of a mile north of where I struck the creek. Distance today six and a half miles; although I suppose I travelled treble that distance. After camping got a horse and went out over the ranges in a west and north direction and saw what I suppose will be a course to suit me tomorrow; otherwise it was my intention to have taken one man and a packhorse, and pushing over the range northward to see if we are near the north watershed, or to have found a practicable route. Ranges are covered with spinifex and rough stones. Hodgkinson shot a euro which will help us on and save a sheep.

Wednesday, April 16.

Camp 38. Started on a general bearing of 292 degrees over the ranges and at seven miles direct got onto a large myall flat; at nine miles passing over myall flat. Red table-topped range close on right; passed through the mass of them and the last of the range; and changed bearing to 325 degrees for three and a half miles, making for a gum creek that appeared to come from the ranges from north and east. Found no water on the road nor in the creek but fortunately some in a side creek at which place I camped. Saw a native signalising to westward, a considerable distance.

Thursday, April 17.

Camp 39. Beautiful morning. Started on bearing of 305 degrees across an extensive myall, gum, and box flat, with innumerable tributaries into it in all directions. General drain up to the south; water in many watercourses as we cross the flat, and must be an immense creek a little lower down, where they all unite. Keep the course for eleven miles, crossing a fine open creek running northward, which I think is the same that we crossed this morning flowing south; then over spinifex ridges on bearing of 300 degrees onto a fine open flat. Heavy ranges west. Apparent fall of water northward; about four miles south of this and immediately over the open undulation at the distance the flow takes place south; on this last course two and a quarter miles; on bearing of 295 degrees for two miles, 293 degrees for two and a quarter miles over splendid country and camped at first creek we met with plenty of water. Unfortunately Kirby with the sheep has got astray; and Hodgkinson, who was sent after him in the morning to swerve him from the course he was then on and bear up north for ours, came up to me in the midst of a spinifex range, whilst leading on the party, with the stupid information that he could not follow his tracks; and on being rated for so doing and sent back arrived at 10 p.m., and never got on his tracks again but says he went back to the camp we left in the morning--for what purpose he only knows; in consequence the unfortunate man did not arrive at camp. I will send after him first thing in the morning. After getting into camp I rode out south towards the watershed but found it further off than I anticipated from this camp. It must be from ten to fifteen miles and most excellent country. The main range west from what I could see of it is very stony; few trees and a great abundance of kangaroo and other grasses. Emu and kangaroo in abundance. Range runs to east of north a little and to south of west a little and is formidable. Distance travelled seventeen and a half miles.

Friday, April 18.

Camp 40. First thing in the morning got the horses and started Middleton and Palmer to endeavour to trace the unfortunate man Kirby who has not made his appearance. He must have had a bitter cold night of it; this morning south wind was as cold or colder than I have felt it for twelve months--we were glad to get to the fire besides fortifying ourselves with warmer clothing than usual. I with Poole started to cut his tracks if he came out through the range on his course through open country south of this, but were unsuccessful in finding any trace of him. Middleton and Palmer got on his tracks and followed them to about dark when within a very short distance of our tracks here, and more than half the distance to this camp, and thought it not improbable, from the course he was then pursuing, that he had got to our camp and came home but the unfortunate had not; had he been followed the day before by Hodgkinson with the same perseverance all would have been well and much anxiety spared to all. If the poor man has kept to the ranges I'm afraid there is little hopes of him--it will be a sad end for the poor fellow--a better man for his occupation could not be found. Just fancy an unfortunate man lost between two and three hundred miles from the coast in a perfect wild with twenty-three sheep (and I question if he has any matches) left to sink or swim beyond reach of any Christian soul. If he is recovered he may thank God. Will still keep up the search for some days to come in hopes of recovering him. Camp bearing 208 1/2 degrees about four and a half miles; furthest north point visible of McKinlay's Range 304 degrees, from thirty to forty miles. No range visible between that and 18 1/2 degrees. Nothing but heavily timbered creeks, innumerable tributaries from both sides and south end. Exact course of main creek not positively discernible, but for the first twenty miles from camp it bears much east, from Observation Hill it appears as far east as 3 degrees--termination of McKinlay's Range as visible from camp on bearing 341 degrees. Furthest southern point of McKinlay's Range as visible from Observation Hill 214 degrees. Some miles beyond the watershed south, hill where watershed takes place about six miles from camp bears from the Hill Observation 216 degrees from camp.

Saturday, April 19.

Horses sent for per first light; night very cold again. Not having had anything in the shape of food since the morning Kirby was lost, except a couple or three spoonfuls of flour each in water, I determined, Kirby not yet arriving, to kill one of our bullocks; had them up to camp and shot one in the grey of the morning; three now remaining; in the event of Kirby not being found with the sheep all correct, not very bright prospect for the party to travel to the Gulf and round to Port Denison upon; certainly we have the horses but I would be loath to kill them except in extreme need, but I will still hope for the best, but cannot stay beyond a week whether found or not, as our provisions, beef, will be lessening daily; the flour we still have is a small quantity reserved in case of sickness and for the purpose of putting a small quantity daily in our soup to make it appear more substantial; at present the vegetable the party were all so fond of has disappeared except some old dry remnants which all feel the want of much. I hope it may reappear. After cooking some of the liver etc. for breakfast and some to take with them, started Middleton and Palmer again to follow up Kirby's tracks from where they left them, and started Bell back to the last camp to examine minutely the track as he went along, and all about the camp in case he may have retraced his steps, which is what he ought to have done. By noon of same day, on our not making our appearance on his course, I started out and skirted the foot of the range where he ought to come out on his course, but was unsuccessful in finding the slightest trace of the unfortunate man. What thoughts must pass in his mind. Not a probability of ever again seeing anyone of his own colour. Possibly destroyed by the natives whose fires are to be seen daily, although they don't make their appearance--never again to see his home nor his friends; it must be awful for the poor man. Dusk now setting in I have better hopes of his recovery as neither of the three horsemen have made their appearance. Just at dark up rides Middleton with the joyous intelligence that man and sheep are found, Palmer staying behind to push on and overtake Bell and Kirby with the sheep on our track here, and Middleton took a more direct route here to give information of the good news, at which all of us were glad and thankful. About 11 p.m. horsemen, Kirby, and sheep arrived safe, and I was truly grateful for the deliverance. The poor man says he never expected to see us again. Bell fortunately picked him up within three miles of our last camp; he was then, after having been considerably south, and now completely bewildered and thinking he had missed the camp while travelling in the dark, steering a north-west course, and in ten minutes longer would have been on our track for this place. Middleton and Palmer had traced him throughout; and as they found they were drawing near our track Palmer went to the track to see if anything was to be seen of him there, and called out to Middleton that they were found, and gone towards home on the tracks, when Middleton immediately started with the information, leaving Palmer to follow and overtake and assist them to camp with the sheep. The man Kirby on arrival was completely worn out, not for want of food but with a troubled mind and want of sleep. He had killed a sheep the second night after leaving last camp and had with him a small portion for his use. How thankful he must have been to see Bell!

Sunday, April 20.

Very cold morning. Kirby sleeping and recruiting himself. The meat drying; in consequence of the last detention it has put us far back from where we otherwise would have been, and the course appears pretty open to us now.

Monday, April 21.

No dew last night, still the meat is unfit to pack, will have to give it today still, and then will make a start in the morning. A splendid large creek flows west of south over the fall of water, and at fifteen to sixteen miles from this there is abundance of water in it, and must increase wonderfully as it goes southward and receives its various tributaries. I have called it the Hamilton after G. Hamilton, Esquire, Inspector of Police, Adelaide. The one flowing south from our last camp (39) I have called the Warburton, after the Commissioner of Police, P.E. Warburton, Esquire, of Adelaide. The range between the two going south I have called Crozier's Range after John Crozier, Esquire, Murray River. The ranges west side of the Hamilton going southward I have called William's Ranges. From the division of waters the ranges west of this and the creek flowing northwards, a branch of which we are now on, I have called McKinlay Creek and Ranges; I only hope the creek may hold a course west of north. The ranges on the east side of this creek going northward I have called Kirby's Ranges to remind him of his narrow escape. Tributaries come into this creek south of this position, and west and east as far as I can discern from top of range, about five miles north-north-east of this; there is abundance of water in many of the minor as well as the main creeks; mussels in all. Magnificent pasture all around and lots of game but wild.

Tuesday, April 22.

Camp 40. We have been here now since the afternoon of Thursday last the 17th, and high time it is that we make some progress. Wind south-east; cold dewless nights; the meat has dried after a fashion but not sufficient for keeping any length of time without further exposure to sun and air--which we must do as soon as we get to camp for several days. Kirby has now quite recovered and we start on a bearing of 345 degrees. I call this small creek Black-eyes Creek--after the bullock we slaughtered here; at three and three-quarter miles crossed the what appears main channel of the creek coming from west-south-west, and various others coming in all directions; this is an immense creek, sandy and gravelly bed, with large and to me perfectly new trees, with short and broad dark green leaf and often clustering in fine saplings from the bottom and growing to a good height; also some fine gums. Creek now on the right; country after crossing the creek is splendidly grassed and firm sound ground between creek and range which is some distance off; but we will be gradually approaching it on our present course. At seven and a half miles crossed sandy creek from west; at ten one-eighth miles crossed large deep creek from west, at twelve miles sandy creek from west; and at fourteen miles sandy creek from west; at fourteen and a quarter miles large sandy creek, west, with water in sand; went down the creek east for a quarter of a mile to water and camped at the junction of the other creek we crossed a short distance back with this; the creek immediately below this is about 300 yards wide with excellent timber; there has been a little spinifex during today's travel but the bulk of it has been well-grassed and fresh varieties of good sound country; a specimen of copper picked up in one of the creeks; a great abundance of quartz and mica strewed everywhere. I think I forgot to mention that at the division of waters on the low bald undulations limestone is strewed about in large and small circular pieces from the size of a saucer to three and four feet in diameter, besides large blocks of it; the hills on the west are of a hard stone between flint and sandstone, strewed about with quartz; the eastern one is of burned slate or clay, pretty much resembling many that we have already passed and what I was on, topped with spinifex, and the side with good grasses.

Wednesday, April 23.