Margaret Brown's French Cookery Book
Part 3
Take 5 pounds of salmon, cut it down the back, and take out the fillets. Lard it very close with thin strips of lard, put on with larding-needle. Put on gridiron, broil it; put butter, pepper, and salt on when broiling. After it is done, take 1 quart of oysters to one dish of fillets; drain the oysters of all liquor; fricassee them. Take 1 teacupful of cream, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of butter, put in a little mace to season, and make a sauce; then put in the oysters, and let it boil up once to get done. Pour in 1 wine-glass of wine. Take your fish, lap the ends over each other on the dish; pour your oysters in center. Take 1 scoop French potatoes, and put four piles around the dish. These potatoes must be boiled in lard and seasoned to taste.
No. 54.
SADDLE OF VENISON.
[12 pounds.]
Take the top skin off. Take portion of fat out, skewer it pretty round; let it cook 3/4 of an hour; cut it down in the back, take out the fillets, slice them, pepper and salt them, and put them back. Make a sauce of 1 cup of sugar, 1/2 cup of vinegar, 2 teacups of tomatoes, the essence out of the venison, 1 teaspoonful of nutmeg, 1/2 teacup of wine. Serve it with the venison. Make potato croquettes to put around the dish.
No. 55.
MUSHROOM CATSUP.
Full grown mushrooms are preferred. Put a layer of these in a deep earthen pan, and sprinkle them with salt; then another layer of mushrooms and more salt, and so on alternately salt and mushrooms. Let them remain 2 or 3 hours, by which time the salt will have gone all through the mushrooms, and make them easy to break; then pound them in a mortar or mash them well with your hands, and let them remain for a couple of days, not longer, stirring them up and mashing them well each day; then pour them in a stone jar, and to each quart add 1-1/2 ounces of whole black pepper, 1/2 ounce of allspice; stop the jar very close, and set it in a stewpan of boiling water; let it boil for 2 hours. Take out the jar, and clear the juice of settlings by pouring through a hair sieve into a clean stewpan; let it boil gently for 1/2 hour. Keep in a dry, cool place; cork tightly or it will spoil.
No. 56.
WALNUT CATSUP.
Take 6 half sieves of green walnut shells, put them in a tub, mix well with common salt (from 2 to 3 pounds), let it stand for 6 days, frequently beating and mashing them; after a while the shells will become soft and pulpy. Pushing the shells up one side of the tub and tipping the tub a little, the liquor will run to the other side. This will be nice and clear. Take it out; repeat the above process until no more liquor can be obtained. You will get in all about 6 quarts. Let this simmer in an iron boiler as long as any scum rises. Bruise 1/4 pound of ginger, 1/4 pound of allspice, 2 ounces of long pepper, 2 ounces of cloves, put these in the liquor and boil slowly for 1/2 hour. When bottled put an equal quantity of spice in each bottle. When corked let the bottle be well filled up. Cork tightly, seal them over and put in a cool and dry place for 1 year.
No. 57.
MUSTARD QUICKLY MADE.
Mix very gradually and rub together in a mortar 1 ounce flour of mustard, 3 tablespoonfuls of milk or cream, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, and same of sugar; rub together until smooth.
No. 57.
STUFFING FOR VEAL, TURKEY OR DUCK.
One-quarter pound of beef suet, 1/4 pound of bread crumbs, 1 bunch of parsley, 1-1/2 bunches of sweet marjoram or lemon thyme, a little grated lemon and onion chopped as fine as possible, a little pepper and salt; pound together with the yolk and white of 2 eggs, and secure it in the veal with a skewer, or sew it with a needle and thread.
No. 58.
OYSTER CATSUP.
Take fine, fresh oysters, wash them in their own liquor; skim it; pound them in a marble mortar; to 1 pint of oysters add 1 pint of sherry wine; boil them up; add 1 ounce of salt, 2 tablespoonfuls of pounded mace, and 1 tablespoonful of cayenne pepper; let it boil up again, skim it and rub it through a sieve, and when cold bottle it, cork it well and seal it up.
No. 59.
STUFFED PEPPERS.
One dozen green peppers; take out all the seed after cutting a piece off the top; lay them into cold water for 1-1/2 hours; 1 pair sweetbreads, parboiled and skinned; 1 can mushrooms, 1 stalk of celery, 1 clove of garlic; chop up all fine; 1/2 loaf bread without crust. Grate up fine pepper and salt, a little nutmeg, 1/2 pound butter. Mix all up well; stuff the peppers with it. Put a piece of fat pork in your dripping pan; set the peppers up in the fat. Before putting in the oven put a little butter, melted, over them and sprinkle them with flour. When they commence to bake pour a little water in the pan and baste them well. Let it bake 1/2 hour in a steady oven. Cucumbers can be stuffed in the same way.
No. 60.
STUFFED QUAILS.
Take 1/2 or 1 dozen quails. Take the bone out same as in boned turkey. Put in mushrooms, truffles, bread crumbs. Make this stuffing moist with butter and pepper and salt. Be sure to stuff them tightly; tie them up, but do not take the feet off. Take a piece of larding pork and tie it on each bird's breast so as to keep it in shape. Then bake them in a baking pan, flour them and baste them. When done make a little sauce of currant jelly, 1 glass of wine, and the gravy from the birds. Lay the birds on a piece of buttered toast. Garnish the dish with cresses.
No. 61.
MUTTON-CHOPS.
Take 1 dozen mutton chops. Take the bone out of the chop; shape it as it was before the bone was taken out. Pepper and salt them; place them in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs. Put them in a skillet of hot lard; fry a delicate brown. Half peck of spinach, picked and clean, must be put into boiling water. Let it boil ten minutes. Place in cold water in a pan; after getting cool squeeze perfectly dry. Chop very fine; mix a tablespoonful of flour in it, 1 tablespoonful butter, gravy of any kind, or colored water of burnt sugar. Place in a stewpan with pepper and salt and a little nutmeg. Cover closely for 10 minutes to cook, and then for 5 minutes more with cover off. Be careful not to let it burn. Put the spinach in the centre of dish and set the chops up all around it. Boil 3 eggs; cut them in quarters and put around the dish.
No. 62.
CHEESE SOUFFLEES.
Take 3 tablespoonfuls flour, 1 of butter, a little chicken water or clear boiling water; cream the flour and butter together, pour chicken soup or boiling water over this till about the consistency of paste; take off the fire, let get cold, then put in fine-grated cheese (or English cheese), at the same time put in 5 yolks of eggs beaten up well in the batter, a little cayenne pepper and a little salt; beat the whites into a stiff froth; set them into a cool place, also the batter, but separately. When you send the dinner in beat the whites in with the batter and cook in moulds or paper cups or pudding-dish; let cook as speedily as possible and send directly to the table; must be served hot.
No. 63.
PLUM-PUDDING SAUCE.
Take a glass of sherry, 1/2 glass of brandy or essence of punch, 2 teaspoonfuls of pounded lump sugar, a little grated lemon peel; put all these in a 1/4 pint of thick melted butter, grating nutmeg on top.
No. 64.
CAPER SAUCE.
One tablespoonful of capers and 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. To prepare the capers mince 1/3 of them very fine, divide the rest in halves; put them in a 1/4 pint of melted butter or thickened gravy; stir them the same way as the melted butter or it will oil. A few leaves of parsley minced fine can be added to the sauce; keep the caper bottle corked closely; do not use any of the liquor; if the capers are not well covered with it they will spoil. This sauce is used with a boiled leg of mutton.
No. 65.
LOBSTER SAUCE.
Choose a fine hen lobster; let it be fresh; boil it; pick out the spawn and red coral in a mortar; add 1/2 ounce of butter, pound smooth, rub through a hair sieve with back of wooden spoon, cut lobster meat in small squares, put pounded spawn into as much melted butter as will do, and stir it together till mixed; now put in lobster meat and warm it on the fire; do not let it boil, as that will deprive it of its red color. Some use veal or beef gravy instead of melted butter.
No. 66.
MUSHROOM SAUCE.
Pick and peel 1/2 pint of mushrooms; wash clean and put in saucepan with 1/2 pint veal gravy or milk, a little pepper and salt, 1 ounce of butter rubbed with a tablespoonful of flour; stir them together and set them over a gentle fire and stew slowly till tender; skim and strain it.
No. 67.
MUSHROOM SAUCE--BROWN.
Put the mushrooms into 1/2 pint beef gravy, thicken with flour and butter and proceed as above.
No. 68.
TOMATO SAUCE.
Place on the fire the tomatoes, washed broth, onion, parsley, and seasonings; boil to a pulp about 35 minutes; rub through a fine sieve; return to the fire, make it hot, stir in the butter and serve.
No. 69.
CHROMSKIES.
Two cupfuls chicken, 1/2 cupful mushrooms, 1/2 cupful ham, yolks of 2 eggs, 1 small onion, 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, 1 level teaspoonful each of royal powder, celery, salt, and thyme, large pinch of salt, 1-1/2 tablespoonfuls of butter, and 2 of flour, 1 cupful of broth. Cut the onion fine, fry it in the stewpan with the butter; when of a deep yellow add the flour, stir 2 minutes; add the broth boiling, the seasonings, and yolks; stir 4 minutes longer; add the fowl, ham, and mushrooms cut in small neat dice; set away to get firm by cooling; cut in neat pieces, dip in common butter, and fry in plenty of hot lard 5 minutes.
No. 70.
CABINET PUDDING A LA FRANCAISE.
Take 1/2 pound of lady-fingers and scrape the crust off; then butter them; take a fluted pudding mould, buttering it well, stick the lady-fingers up all around it. One-fourth pound candied cherries, 1/4 pound citron, 1/4 pound raisins, with seeds picked out, 1/4 pound currants washed clean, 1/2 dozen macaroni. Take the scrapings and balance of lady-fingers, leaving out 8 for the top, and put all the fruit into these dry crumbs. Put all in the mould, with a layer of butter. Just before you put it on to boil take 5 whites and 7 yolks of 7 eggs, 1 quart of milk, make a custard, sweetened to taste. Pour it over the cake and fruit in the mould. Boil slowly 2-1/2 hours. Take a tumbler of Jamaica rum, 1 tumbler milk, 2 eggs, and make a sauce. Stir till it almost comes to a boil and serve hot. Take the 2 whites of eggs, left of the 7 eggs used previously, and beat them very light, and put on top of pudding when taken out of mould. Drop a few candied cherries on top. Serve hot.
No. 71.
FISH PUDDING.
Three pounds of rock, boil it not quite done enough to serve; take it out; let it get cool; then take all the skin off; take the fish from the bones in fine pieces, not mashed up; 1/2 can of truffles; 1 can of mushrooms; peel the truffles; cut the largest size truffles and mushrooms into rose and star shapes with little cutters; take a 3-pint pudding mould fluted and grease it well, setting the shapes all around the mould; cut most of the mushrooms with a little parsley very fine and put with the fish; the truffles must be cut up and put in the sauce; 1/2 pint of milk, a full tablespoonful of flour, medium size tablespoonful of butter; mix the flour and butter together; put the milk on to boil; then pour it into the flour and butter; then pour all on the fish; put pepper and salt in it; put fish in a mould; cover it up tight and place it in a pot of boiling water two-thirds up the sides of the mould and let it steam 1/2 hour; take 1/2 pint of cream and mushroom water; put it on the fire to boil; rub up a tablespoonful each of flour and butter; mix all together, putting in the balance of the truffles and mushrooms, and let all boil 10 or 15 minutes; season with pepper and salt; 1 quart of scoop French potatoes; boil them done in salt and water; when done put through a colander. When it is time to serve the fish pudding pour the fish out into the platter and pour the potatoes around the dish; serve the gravy in a sauce-bowl.
No. 72.
SNIPE PUDDING.
Pick 8 fine, fat, fresh snipes; singe them; cut in halves; take out the gizzards and reserve the trail for further use; season the snipes with pepper, salt, lemon juice, and set aside till wanted; peel half of an onion; cut in thin slices, and fry in a stewpan with a little butter; when browned throw in a tablespoonful of flour; stir together on the fire for 3 minutes; add a handful of chopped mushrooms and parsley, a small bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, a little mace, and a small silver onion; put in 1 pint of claret; stir the whole upon the fire, and when boiled 10 minutes add the trail and a small piece of breakfast bacon; let the sauce boil 3 minutes longer, and rub through the sieve upon the snipes; line a pudding-basin with suet-paste; fill it up with what has been prepared, and when covered with paste well fastened around the edge let it steam in a covered stewpan for 2-1/2 hours; when done turn out of basin with care; pour a rich brown game gravy under it and serve.
No. 73.
BEEFSTEAK PUDDING.
Paste, 2-1/2 pounds round steak, 1 level teaspoonful each of celery salt, thyme, and marjoram, 1 small onion, salt and white pepper to taste, 4 sprigs parsley. Line a well-buttered pudding mould with the paste, wet the edges, make a layer of beef, cut in neat scallops, sprinkle with the onion and parsley minced fine and mixed on a plate with celery salt, thyme, marjoram, salt and pepper, then another layer of beef, and seasoning, and so on until each is used; fill up with cold water, cover it with paste, place a buttered paper over it and set in a saucepan with boiling water to reach two-thirds up the outside of the mould; steam it thus 2-1/2 hours, turn carefully out on a dish, pour over it any gravy that may be at hand, made hot and flavored with any kind of sauce piquante.
No. 74.
BOSTON BAKED PLUM PUDDING.
One-and-one-half cupfuls beef suet freed of skin and chopped very fine, 1-1/2 cupfuls raisins stoned, 1-1/2 cupfuls currants washed and picked, 1 cupful brown sugar, 2 cupfuls flour, 1 teaspoonful baking powder, 4 eggs, 1 cupful milk, 1/2 cupful citron chopped, pinch of salt, 1 tablespoonful extract of nutmeg, 1 glass of brandy. Put all these ingredients in a bowl, the eggs as they drop from the shell, the flour sifted with the powder and the brandy; mix into a rather short batter; pour into a well-buttered clean cake tin and bake in a steady oven two hours. Serve with vanilla sauce.
No. 75.
VANILLA SAUCE.
Put 1/2 pint milk in a small saucepan over the fire; when scalding hot add the yolks of 3 eggs, stir until it is as thick as boiled custard; add, when taken from the fire and cooled, 1 tablespoonful extract vanilla and whites of two eggs whipped stiff.
No. 76.
CABINET PUDDING, 2.
Four English muffins or rolls, 1/2 pint milk, 1 pint cream, 4 eggs and 4 yolks, 1 cupful sugar; 1/2 cupful almonds blanched, by pouring boiling water on them until the skins slip off easily, and cut into shreds; 1 cupful each dried cherries, apricots, green gages, or any other preserved, whole, or panned fruits; 1 glass noyeau. Well butter a mould; make a layer of muffins cut very thin, then of fruit, the almonds, and so on, until all the ingredients are used; beat the milk, cream, sugar, eggs, and noyeau together; pour over the contents of mould, and let it stay, before baking, at least half an hour; then set it in a saucepan with boiling water to reach two-thirds up the mould; steam it thus one hour; turn it out on a dish carefully and serve with cream sauce.
No. 77.
CREAM SAUCE.
Bring 2/3 pint of cream slowly to boil; set in stewpan of boiling water; when it reaches the boiling point, add the sugar; then pour it slowly on the whipped whites of eggs in a bowl; add 1 teaspoonful Royal extract vanilla, and use.
No. 78.
GREEN-CORN PUDDING.
Eight ears corn, 1 large teaspoonful butter, 1/2 cupful sugar, pinch of salt, 2 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 1 teaspoonful Royal extract of vanilla. Split each row on the cob lengthways; cut off the rounded point, and with the handle of the spoon push out the eyes and cream into a bowl; add to the milk, hot, the eggs, well beaten, the sugar, butter, and extract; pour it into a buttered dish, and bake 40 minutes in a moderate oven.
No. 79.
PLUM PUDDING.
Two cupfuls raisins, 2 cupfuls currants, 2 cupfuls suet, 1/2 cupful almonds blanched, 2 cupfuls flour, 2 cupfuls grated Royal sugar muffins or bread; 1/2 cupful each of citron, orange and lemon peel; 8 eggs, 1 cupful sugar, 1/2 cupful cream, 1 gill each of wine and brandy, large pinch salt, 1 tablespoonful Royal extract of nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful Royal baking-powder. Put in a large bowl the raisins seeded, the currants washed and picked, the suet chopped very fine, the almonds cut fine, the citron, orange and lemon peels chopped, the lemon, sugar, wine, brandy, and cream; lastly, add the flour, sifted, with the powder, and mix all well together; put in a large, well-buttered mould, set in a saucepan with boiling water to reach one-half up the sides of the mould, and steam it thus five hours; turn out on its dish carefully and serve with hot brandy sauce.
No. 80.
TAPIOCA PUDDING.
One cupful tapioca, soaked in 1 quart cold water over night, 1 cupful sugar, 1-1/2 pints milk, and 4 eggs.
No. 81.
CABINET PUDDING, 1.
Half pound of stale sponge cake, 1/2 cup of raisins, 1/2 can of peaches, 4 eggs, and 1-1/2 pints of milk. Butter a plain oval mould; lay in some of the stale cake, 1/3 of the raisins, stoned, 1/3 of the peaches; make two layers of the remainder of the cake, raisins, and peaches; cover with a very thin slice of bread, then pour over the milk, beaten with eggs and sugar; set in a sauce pan with boiling water, to reach two-thirds up the side of the mould; steam it 3/4 of an hour, and turn out carefully on a dish. Serve with peach sauce.
No. 82.
CUSTARD PUDDING.
One and a half pints of milk, 4 eggs, 1 cupful of sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls Royal extract of vanilla. Beat the eggs and sugar together; dilute with the milk and extract; pour into a buttered pudding dish, set in the oven in a dripping-pan two-thirds full of boiling water; bake until firm, about 40 minutes, in a moderate oven.
No. 83.
PLUM PUDDING.
Two cupfuls each of stoned raisins and currants, washed and picked, beef-suet chopped fine, and coffee sugar, 3 cupfuls of grated English muffins or bread, 8 eggs 1 cupful each, chopped citron and almonds, blanched by pouring boiling water over them till the skins slip off easily, and 1 lemon peel, and a pinch of salt. Mix all these ingredients in a large bowl, put in a well-buttered mould, set in a saucepan with boiling water to reach two-thirds up its sides, steam it thus 5 hours; turn it out carefully on its dish, and serve with brandy poured over it, and brandy sauce in a bowl. When about to serve on the table, the brandy should be set on fire.
No. 84.
RICE PUDDING.
One cupful of rice, 1 quart of milk, 4 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 1 cupful of sugar, and a pinch of salt. Boil the rice in 1 pint of milk until tender, then remove it from the fire; add the eggs, sugar, salt, and milk, beaten together, and mix; pour into a pudding dish, break the butter in small pieces on the surface, and bake in a steady oven 30 minutes. Serve with brandy sauce.
No. 85.
CUSTARD SAUCE.
One pint of milk, yolks of 4 eggs, 1/2 cupful sugar. Set on the fire, and stir until thick.
No. 86.
ROYAL WINE SAUCE.
Bring slowly to the boiling point 1/2 pint of wine, then add to it the yolks of 4 eggs, and 1 cupful of sugar; whip it on the fire until it is in a state of high froth, and a little thick; remove and use as directed.
No. 87.
PRINCESS PUDDING.
Two-thirds of a cupful of butter, 1 cupful of sugar, 1 large cupful of flour, 3 eggs, 1/2 teaspoonful Royal baking powder, and a small glass of brandy. Rub to a smooth cream butter and sugar, add the eggs, one at a time, beating a few minutes between; add the flour, sifted, with the powder and the brandy; put into a mould, well buttered; set in saucepan with boiling water to reach half up its sides; steam it thus 1-1/2 hours, turn on its dish carefully, and serve with lemon sauce.
No. 88.
YORKSHIRE PUDDING.
Three-quarters of pint of flour, 3 eggs, 1-1/2 pints of milk, a pinch of salt, 1-1/2 teaspoonfuls of Royal baking powder. Sift the flour and powder together, add eggs, beaten, with the milk; stir quickly into a rather thinner batter than for griddle cakes; pour it into a dripping pan, plentifully spread with cold beef drippings; bake in oven 25 minutes. Serve with roast beef.
No. 89.
COTTAGE PUDDING.
Make a sponge cake--about a 1/2-pound mould sponge cake; 1/4 pound almonds, blanch them. When the cake is done stick these almonds all over it. Pour 1/2 pint sherry wine all over it. Cover it up and set it away till time to serve. Take 1 quart of milk, boil it, 7 yolks of eggs; mix with sugar to taste essence of lemon or vanilla. When the milk boils pour it on the eggs. Pour it in a saucepan and just let it come almost to a boil, so as to thicken it. Take it off the fire and set in an ice-box to let it get cold. Beat the whites of eggs to a stiff froth; put in it while beating a little apple, raspberry, or currant jelly, or any kind of preserve. When ready to serve pour the custard on the cake and put the icing all over the custard.
No. 90.
VERMICELLI PUDDING.
Boil 1 pint of milk with lemon peel and cinnamon, sweeten with loaf sugar, strain through a sieve, adding 1/4 pound of vermicelli; boil 10 minutes, put in the yolks of 5 eggs and the whites of 3 eggs. Mix well together and steam 1-1/4 hours. Bake 1/2 hour.
No. 91.
BOILED CUSTARDS.
Put 1 quart of new milk in a stewpan, with the peel of a lemon cut very thin, a little grated nutmeg, a bay or laurel leaf, small stick of cinnamon. Set over a quick fire. Don't let it boil over. When boiled set off on one side of stove. Let simmer 10 minutes. Break the yolks of 8 eggs and the whites of 4 eggs in a basin; beat them well; then pour in the milk, a little at a time, stirring as quickly as possible so the eggs will not curdle. Set on the fire again, stirring it. Let boil up once; pass it through a fine sieve. When cold add brandy or white wine. Serve up in glasses or cups. Custards for baking have a little nutmeg grated over them. Bake 15 or 20 minutes.
No. 92.
ROMAN PUNCH.
Make 2 quarts of lemonade, rich with the pure juice of lemon and add to this 1 tablespoonful of the extract of lemon; work this well and freeze; just before serving up and for each quart of the ice 1/2 pint of cognac and 1/2 pint Jamaica rum. Mix well and serve in high glasses, as this makes what is called a semi or half ice. It is usually served at dinners as a coup d'milieu.
No. 93.
TRANSPARENT ICING.
Place 1 pound pulverized white sugar in a basin with 1/2 pint water. Boil to the consistency of mucilage, then rub the sugar with a wooden spatula against the sides of the pans until it assumes a milky appearance. Stir in 2 tablespoonfuls extract vanilla; mix well together. Pour this while hot over the top of cake so as to completely cover it.
No. 94.
COFFEE ICE CREAM.
One quart best cream, 1/2 pint of strong Mocha coffee, 14 ounces white pulverized sugar, 8 yolks eggs. Mix these ingredients in a porcelain-lined basin; place on fire to thicken; rub through a hair sieve into a basin; put into freezer and freeze.
No. 95.
ITALIEN ORANGE ICE CREAM.
One and one-half pints best cream, 12 ounces white pulverized sugar, the juice of 6 oranges, and 2 teaspoonfuls orange extract, the yolks of 8 eggs, and a pinch of salt. Mix these ingredients in a porcelain-lined basin, and stir over fire until the composition begins to thicken; rub and pass the cream through a hair sieve; put into freezer and finish.
No. 96.
RASPBERRY WATER ICE.