Part 2

"Within the walls we observe that some of the religious houses have quite disappeared--Crutched Friars, for instance. There is a vacant space, which is probably one of the courts of St. Helen's. The Priory of the Holy Trinity preserves its courts, but there is no sign of the church. There are still visible the courts and gardens of Austin Friars. There is still the great court of the Grey Friars, but the buildings of Blackfriars seem to have vanished entirely" (_London in the Time of the Tudors_, p. 185).

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NORDEN'S MAPS OF LONDON AND WESTMINSTER

DESIGNER.--Being on a very small scale, these maps are not so attractive as some that have been already discussed. John Norden, the designer, was born about 1548, and seems to have had from the first an extraordinary gift of delicate penmanship, which he turned to much account in map-making. He projected a whole "Speculum Britanniæ," but during his lifetime only managed to publish books on two counties--namely, Middlesex and Hertfordshire. He left behind him the results of his labours on many other counties in manuscript, and these have since been published. Norden was appointed Surveyor of His Majesty's Woods in 1609. The engraving of the Middlesex maps was done by Peter Van den Keere.

ORIGINALS.--The reproductions are taken from those which appear in Norden's _Middlesex_, dated 1593. Each map is 9½ inches by 6¾ inches. The wonderful delicacy of Norden's work makes these maps peculiarly appreciated by students of London cartography.

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FAITHORNE AND NEWCOURT

DESCRIPTION.--This map generally goes by the name of Faithorne, the engraver, but in reality the credit is due quite as much to Richard Newcourt the elder (d. 1679), who was the draughtsman. It is selected for a place here because, the date being 1658, it shows the City as it was before the Fire, and therefore forms a supplement to the map of Ogilby which follows, and shows the City as it was when rebuilt after the Fire.

ENGRAVER.--William Faithorne the elder was born in 1616, and was an engraver and portrait painter. He engraved numerous portraits, book-plates, maps, and title-pages. Among his works are two large maps, entitled "Cities of London and Westminster," and of "Virginia and Maryland."

ORIGINAL.--The only two copies of the original issue known to be extant are in the Print Rooms, British Museum, and in the Bibliothèque Nationale of Paris. The map here given is taken from a sheet of that in the British Museum, and is on the same scale.

DETAILS.--It will be noticed that the sheet chosen for inclusion in this atlas shows very nearly the same area as the map of Ogilby which follows, but does not go quite so far eastward as the Tower. The City wall is clearly shown along the north side of the City, and the bastion near Cripplegate stands out; the town ditch can be traced just beyond this corner running southward. It was the curious and apparently meaningless angle that the wall makes here which led Sir Walter Besant to suggest that it may have been designed to exclude the ancient Roman amphitheatre, of which the site is now lost (see _Early London_, p. 85). The Fleet River is shown still open and crossed by bridges, of which there are no fewer than five from Holborn to the mouth. That at Fleet Street shows, indeed, a continuous line of houses. St. Paul's is very clearly delineated. The figures within the City refer to the old churches, of which a list is given below. Notice the gable roofs, still the chief style of domestic architecture. The lines of the streets in the heart of the City remain wonderfully the same to our own day. Outside the walls the City is stretching out great arms into the country. There is one such arm made by the continuous houses fringing Bishopsgate Street as far as the extreme northern limit of the map. Then there is a gap between this and Moorgate Street, including all the ground known at Moorfields and Finsbury. A few scattered houses and some cultivated fields cover this space, and in one corner is "Bedlame."

A mass of houses lies westward, running on to the Charter House, northward of which are open fields, and so to "Clarkin Well."

THE SEVERALL CHVRCHES WITHIN THE WALLES OF LONDON DISTINGUISHED BY SEUERALL FIGURES, BY WHICH ALLSOE THE EYE MAY PARTLY BE GUIDED TO THE EMINENT STREETS IN OR NEERE WHICH THEY STAND, WHICH COULD NOT WELL BE OTHERWISE DEMONSTRATED, IN REGARD OF THE SMALL SCALE BY WHICH THIS MAPP IS DESCRIBED.

1. Albans in Woodstreet 2. Alhallows Barkin nere Tower hill 3. Alhallows in Bread street 4. Alhallows y^e Greate in Thamas streete 5. Alhallows the Lesse do. do. 6. Alhallows in Hony lane nere Chepside 7. Alhallows in Lumber street 8. Alhallows Stayninge nere Fanshawes street 9. Alhallows in y^e Wall nere Moorefeilds 10. Alphage by y^e Wall nere Cripple gate 11. Andrew Hubard by Philpot lan 12. Andrew Vndershaft 13. Andrew in y^e Wardrop aboue Pudle wharfe 14. Ann at Alders gate 15. Ann in Black friers 16. Antholins in Watling streete 17. Austins nere Paules church 18. Bartholomew by y^e Exchange 19. Bennet Finch 20. Bennet Grace church neer Gracious streete 21. Bennet at Paules wharfe 22. Bennet Sherehogg nere Bucklers berry 23. Bottolph at Billings-gate 24. Christs Church by Newgate streete 25. Christophers in Thredneedle streete 26. Clements in East chepe 27. Dennis back Church nere E[=a]shastreete 28. Dunstanes in y^e East nere Tower street 29. Edmonds in Lumber streete 30. Ethelborough in Bishops gate street 31. Faith under Paules 32. Foster in Foster lane nere Chepside 65. French Church in Third needle street 33. Gabriell in Fanshawes streete 34. Georges in Bottolph lane 35. Gregories by Paules 36. Hellins nere Bishops gate 37. Iames Dukes place nere Aldgat 38. Iames Garlick hill by Bow lane 39. Iohn Baptist nere Dow gate street 40. Iohn Euangelist nere Friday street 41. Iohn Zachary nere Foster lane 42. Katherin Coleman nere Fanshawes stret 43. Katherin Cree church nere Aldgate 44. Lawrence Iury nere Guild hall 45. Lawrence Poultney nere Eastchepe 46. Leonarde in East-chepe 47. Leonarde in Foster lane 48. Magnus by the Bridge 49. Margrett in Lothberry 50. Margrett Moses next Friday street 51. Margrett in new Fishstreete 52. Margrett in Rood lane 53. Mary Abchurch Lane 54. Mary Aldermanberry 55. Mary Aldermary nere Watling streete 56. Mary le Bow in Chepside 57. Mary Bothaw in Cannon streete 58. Mary Cole church in Chepside 59. Mary Hill aboue Billings gate 60. Mary Mounthaw aboue Broken warfe 61. Mary Somersett nere Broken wharfe 62. Mary Staynings nere Alders gate 63. Mary Woollchurch nere y^e Stocks 64. Mary Woollnoth in Lumber streete 66. Martins Iremonger lane nere Chepside 67. Martins with^{in} Ludgate 68. Martins Orgars nere Eastcheape 69. Martins Outwitch next Bishopsgate stret 70. Martins Vintree neere y^e 3 Cranes 71. Mathews in Friday Street 72. Maudlins milke str[=e]t neere Chepside 73. Maudlins in Old Fishstreete 74. Michaell Bashaw behind Guildhall 75. Michaell in Cornhill 76. Michaell Crooked Lane neere N Fish'trete 77. Michaell att Quene Hith 78. Michaell y^e Querne vper end of Chepside 79. Michaell Royall att Colledge Hill 80. Michaell in Woodstreet nere Chepside 81. Mildred in Bred streete nere Chepside 82. Mildred in the Poultry 83. Nicholas Acons Nicholas lane nere L[=u]berstreet 84. Nicholas Cole Abby in old Fishstreet 85. Nicholas Olaves in Breadstreet 86. Olaues in Hart street nere Cruched friers 87. Olaues in old Iury at y^e lower end of Chepside 88. Olaues in Silver streete 89. Pancras in Soper lane nere Bucklerbery 90. Peters nere Chepside 91. Peters in Cornehill 92. Peters nere Paules wharfe 93. Peters y^e poore nere Brod streete 94. Steven in Coleman streete nere Moregate 95. Steven in Wallbrooke 96. Swithens in Ca[=n]on streete by London stone 97. Thomas y^e Apostle 98. Trinitie Church aboue Quene Hith 99. Dutch Church nere Brodstreete

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OGILBY'S MAP OF LONDON

DESCRIPTION.--This is more exclusively a plan of the City than any we have yet considered. It runs roughly from the Tower to Lincoln's Inn Fields, and the reason why it is thus limited is that it was made as a survey to assist in the plotting out of land in the City after the Fire.

DESIGNER.--John Ogilby was born about 1600, and did not turn his attention to surveying until he was about sixty-six, when he secured the appointment as "King's Cosmographer and Geographical Printer." He died in 1676, the year before his map was published. He was assisted in the work by William Morgan, his wife's grandson, and most of the actual engraving of the map was done by Hollar.

ORIGINAL.--The original is 8 feet 5 inches by 4 feet 7 inches, and is in twenty sheets. It is on the scale of 100 feet to the inch. It may be seen in the British Museum (Crace Collection) and in the Guildhall. The two examples differ a little, and that in the Guildhall has an additional sheet. The reproduction here given is taken from that made by the London and Middlesex Archæological Society from the British Museum copy. The arms of the City are in the left-hand top corner, and those of Sir Thomas Davies, Lord Mayor 1676-77, in the right-hand corner.

DETAILS.--Beginning at the left-hand top corner, we find pastures, bowling-greens, and market-gardens. Aylesbury House, next to St. John Street, has magnificent private gardens, and beyond the Charterhouse bowling-green there is a wood. Further east the Honourable Artillery Company, which had been revived by Cromwell, can be seen, with their equipment and tents. This company is directly descended from the Finsbury Archers, whom we noted in the last map, and it is interesting to know that the actual ground on which they are here depicted is still reserved for their use. Moorfields is neatly laid out and planned, and south of it is new Bethlehem Hospital, now transferred across the river. Eastward, again, there is a large open space at Devonshire House Garden, and southward innumerable gardens can be seen, some of which are preserved to this day behind City halls, etc., but so hidden that no one who did not know of their existence could possibly find them.

On tracing the line of the City wall on the north side we see how some of the churches, notably St. Giles's and St. Botolph's, have taken a part of the town ditch for the enlargement of their churchyards; near St. Bartholomew's the town ditch is still marked. This ditch caused the Mayor and Council as much worry as the increase of houses, because it was the receptacle for every kind of filth, and its cleansing annually swallowed up a large sum of money. The Fleet River is shown flowing down in the open, and is called the New Canal. It is crossed by a bridge at Holborn and another at Fleet Street. We can mark the sinuous line of the great thoroughfare of Holborn as it was before the viaduct and approaches were made. The Strand outside Temple Bar shows the obstructions which have only finally been removed in our own time. Butcher Row disappeared first in 1813; other streets followed to make way for the new Law Courts, and with the destruction of Holywell Row and the opening of Kingsway the improvements here may be considered complete.

To the south are the great houses of Essex and Arundel, with their gardens; their names are preserved in the streets that flow over their sites. Somerset House, the Protector's palace, was then standing, and did not make way for its present representative for another hundred years. The river is covered with wherries, clustered as thickly as ants. It is still the main highway for most people, though there were hackney coaches for hire. There was still only London Bridge by which to get across the river on foot, and the boats were used as ferries. There were tilt-boats, too, as well as the smaller wherries; these ran at stated intervals, like our own omnibuses, and were protected by an awning. Near the Fleet mouth is Bridewell, once a palace, and the scene of the meeting of Parliament, but given by Edward VI. to be a prison. On the east is a blank space, where is now the station of the London Chatham and Dover Railway Co., who purchased it in 1844. The site of St. Paul's was plotted out, but not yet built upon. In fact, the rebuilding of the houses was the first consideration, and was done with remarkable promptness, for in the meantime the poor houseless wretches were camping on Moorfields. The churches and city halls were therefore left to the last; yet even so we may see that, though only eleven years had elapsed since the destruction of the City, about twenty churches had been rebuilt out of the eighty-seven that were destroyed. The picturesque Old London of the gable-ends and overhanging stories was gone, never to return; but gone also was a great deal of rubbish and an insanitariness never afterwards quite so bad. As for the overcrowding, we must see what Sir Walter Besant says:

"If we look into Ogilby's map, we see plainly that as regards the streets and courts London after the Fire was very much the same as London before the Fire; there were the same narrow streets, the same crowded alleys, the same courts and yards. Take, for instance, the small area lying between Bread Street Hill on the west and Garlick Hill on the east, between Trinity Lane on the north and Thames Street on the south: is it possible to crowd more courts and alleys into this area? Can we believe that after the Fire London was relieved of its narrow courts with this map before us? Look at the closely-shut-in places marked on the maps--'1 g., m. 46, m. 47, m. 48, m. 40.' These are respectively Jack Alley, Newman's Rents, Sugar-Loaf Court, Three Cranes Court, and Cowden's Rents. Some of these courts survive to this day. They were formed, as the demand for land grew, by running narrow lanes between the backs of houses and swallowing up the gardens. There were 479 such courts in Ogilby's London of 1677, 472 alleys, and 172 yards, besides 128 inns, each of which, with its open courts for the standing of vehicles and its galleries, stood retired from the street on a spot which had once been the fair garden of a citizen's house" (_London in the Time of the Stuarts_, p. 280).

THE FOLLOWING EXPLANATIONS ARE EXTRACTED FROM OGILBY'S KEY TO THE MAP IN THE BRITISH MUSEUM

We Proceed to the Explanation of the Map, containing 25 Wards, 122 Parishes and Liberties, and therein 189 Streets, 153 Lanes, 522 Alleys, 458 Courts, and 210 Yards bearing Name.

The Broad Black Line is the City Wall. The Line of the Freedom is a Chain. The Division of the Wards, thus oooo. The Parishes, Liberties, and Precincts by a Prick-line, .... Each Ward and Parish is known by the Letters and Figures Distributed within their Bounds, which are placed in the Tables before their Names.... The Wards by Capitals without Figures. The Parishes, &c., by Numbers without Letters. The Great Letters with Numbers refer to Halls, Great Buildings, and Inns. The Small Letters to Courts, Yards, and Alleys, every Letter being repeated 99 times, and sprinkled in the Space of 5 Inches, running through the Map, from the Left Hand to the Right, &c. Churches and Eminent Buildings are double Hatch'd, Streets, Lanes, Alleys, Courts, and Yards, are left White. Gardens, &c. faintly Prick'd. Where the Space admits the Name of the Place is in Words at length, but where there is not room, a Letter and Figure refers you to the Table in which the Streets are Alphabetically dispos'd, and in every Street the Churches and Halls, Places of Note, and Inns, with the Courts, Yards, and Alleys, are named; then the Lanes in that Street, and the Churches, &c. as aforesaid, in each Lane.

THE SEVERAL MARKS AND NAMES OF THE WARDS, PARISHES, AND LIBERTIES

WARDS

A Faringdon Without B Faringdon Within C Bainard-Castle D Bread-Street E Queen-Hith F Cordwainers G Walbrook H Vintry I Dowgate K Broad-Street L Cornhil M Cheap N Bassishaw O Coleman-Street P Bishopsgate Q Cripplegate T Tower R Aldersgate S Billingsgate T Lime-Street U Langborn W Portsoken X Aldgate Y Candlewick Z Bridg

PARISHES AND LIBERTIES

1. St. James Clerkenwel 2. St. Giles Cripple-Gate 3. St. Leonard Shoreditch 4. Norton-Folgate Liberty 5. St. Botolph Bishopsgate 6. Stepney 7. St. Stephen Coleman Street 8. Alhallows on the Wall 9. St. Andrew Holborn 10. St. Giles in the Fields 11. St. Sepulchers 12. St. Mary Cole-Church 13. St. Botolph Aldersgate 14. St. Alphage 15. St. Alban Wood Street 16. St. Olave Silver Street 17. St. Michael Bassishaw 18. Christ Church 19. St. Anne Aldersgate 20. St. Mary Staining 21. St. Mary Aldermanbury 22. St. Olave Jewry 23. St. Martin Ironmonger Lane 24. St. Mildred Poultry 25. St. Bennet Sherehog 26. St. Pancras Soaper Lane 27. St. Laurence Jewry 28. St. Mary Magdalen Milk Street 29. Alhallows Hony Lane 30. St. Mary le Bow 31. St. Peter Cheap 32. St. Michael Wood Street 33. St. John Zachary 34. St. Martins Liberty 35. St. Leonard Foster Lane 36. St. Vedast, alias Foster 37. St. Michael Quern 38. St. John Evangelist 39. St. Mathew Friday Street 40. St. Margaret Lothbury 41. St. Bartholemew Exchange 42. St. Christophers 43. St. Mary Woolnoth 44. St. Mary Woolchurch 45. St. Michael Cornhil 46. St. Bennet Fink 47. St. Peter Poor 48. St. Peter Cornhil 49. St. Martin Outwich 50. St. Hellens 51. St. Ethelborough 52. St. Andrew Undershaft 53. Alhallows Lumbard Street 54. St. Edmond Lumbard Street 55. St. Dionis Back-Church 56. St. Katherine Cree-Church 57. St. James Dukes Place 58. St. Katherine Coleman 59. St. Olave Hart Street 60. St. Botolph Aldgate 61. St. Mary White Chapel 62. Trinity Minories 63. St. Bartholemew the Great 64. Alhallows Staining 65. Alhallows Barking 66. St. Mary Abchurch 67. St. Nicholas Accorn 68. St. Clement East Cheap 69. St. Bennet Grace-Church 70. St. Gabriel Fenchurch 71. St. Margaret Pattons 72. St. Andrew Hubbart 73. Dutchy Liberty 74. St. Clement Danes 75. Rolls Liberty 76. St. Dunstan in the West 77. White Fryers Precinct 78. St. Bridget 79. Bridewel Precinct 80. St. Anne Black-Fryers 81. St. Martin's Ludgate 82. St. Gregories 83. St. Andrew Wardrobe 84. St. Bennet Paul's Wharf 85. St. Peter 86. St. Mary Magdaline Old Fish-Street 87. St. Nicholas Cole-Abby 88. St. Austine 89. St. Margaret Moses 90. Alhallows Bread-Street 91. St. Mildred Bread-Street 92. St. Nicholas Olave 93. St. Mary Mounthaw 94. St. Mary Somerset 95. St. Michael Queen Hith 96. Trinity 97. St. Mary Aldermary 98. St. Thomas Apostles 99. St. Michael Royal 100. St. James Garlick-Hith 101. St. Martin Vintry 102. St. Antholin's 103. St. John Baptist 104. St. Stephen Walbrook 105. St. Swithin 106. St. Mary Bothaw 107. Alhallows the Great 108. St. Faith's 109. St. Leonard East Cheap 110. St. Laurence Poultney 111. St. Martin Orgar's 112. Little Alhallows 113. St. Michael Crooked Lane 114. St. Magnus at the Bridg 115. St. Margaret New Fish-Street 116. St. George Botolph Lane 117. St. Botolph Billingsgate 118. St. Mary Hill 119. St. Dunstans in the East 120. Little St. Bartholemews 121. Tower Liberty 122. St. Katherines

LIST OF PRINCIPAL BUILDINGS IN OGILBY & MORGAN'S MAP, 1677 COMPILED FROM THE MAP AND KEY The References on the left of the names refer to the marginal numbers on the Map

7-14. African House, Throgmorton Street, B55 2-5. Ailesbury's House, Earl of, A7 7-18. Aldgate 10-17. Alhallows Barking Church 9-10. Alhallows Bread-street Church 11-12. Alhallows Church, Great 11-12. Alhallows Church, Little 7-10. Alhallows Hony Lane Church [site absorbed into Hony Lane Market] 9-14. Alhallows Lombard Street Church 5-14. Alhallows on the Wall Church 9-17. Alhallows Staining Church, Mark Lane 9-6. Apothecary's Hall, C1 5-12. Armorers Hall, Coleman Street, A65 11-1. Arundel House

5-10. Barber Chyrurgeons Hall, A59 6-15. Barnadiston's House, Sir Samuel, B61 6-3. Barnard's Inn 6-3. Bell Inn, Holborn, A83 8-6. Bell Savage Inn, Ludgate Hill, B77 3-6. Berkley's House, Lord, A11 6-14. Bethlehem, New 6-15. Bishops Gate 6-3. Black Bull Inn, Holborn, A84 6-3. Black Swan Inn, Holborn, A81 10-9. Blacksmith's Hall, C29 7-11. Blackwel Hall, B49 7-11. Blossom's Inn, B48 6-9. Bludworth's House, Sir Thomas, Maiden Lane, B3 9-4. Bolt and Tun Inn, Fleet Street, B98 6-10. Brewers Hall, Addle Street, B7 8-17. Brick-Layers Hall, Leaden Hall Street, C52 9-6. Bridewell 9-6. Bridewel Precinct Chapel, Bride Lane 3-9. Bridgwaters House, Earl of, A18 6-2. Brook House 10-11. Buckingham's House, Duke of, C19 6-8. Bull and Mouth Inn, Bull and Mouth Street, A98 10-15. Butchers Hall, C39

9-2. Chancery Office, Chancery Lane, B73 3-6. Charter House 7-7. Christ Church, Newgate Street 7-7. Christ Hospital 7-12. Clayton's House, Sir Robert, Old Jewry, B52 9-1. Clements Inn 6-9. Clerks Hall, Silver Street, B4 9-3. Clifford's Inn 9-16. Cloth Workers Hall, Mincing Lane, C25 6-9. Cooks Hall, Aldersgate Street, C50 6-11. Coopers Hall, Bassishaw Street, B14 9-9. Cordwainers Hall 5-10. Cripple Gate 5-10. Curryers Hall, London Wall, A60 7-2. Cursitor's Office 11-17. Custome house 9-12. Cutlers Hall, Cloak Lane, C21

6-5. David's House, Sir Thomas. Snow Hill, B34 5-16. Devonshire House, A73 9-9. Doctors Commons, C10 3-7. Dorchester's House, Marquess of, A13 7-14. Drapers Hall, B57 6-14. Dutch Church 11-13. Dyers Hall, New Key, Thames Street

8-16. East India House, Leaden Hall Street, B88 6-4. Ely House 10-1. Essex House 6-14. Excise Office, Broad Street, C60

10-15. Fiery Pillar, The [The Monument] 11-14. Fishmongers Hall, Thames Street 9-6. Fleet Bridg 8-5. Fleet [Prison] 7-12. Founders Hall, Loathbury, B56 7-12. Frederick's House, Sir John, Old Jewry, B51 7-14. French Church, B62 6-3. Furnival's Inn

6-6. George Inn, Holborn Bridg, A92 9-10. Gerrard's Hall Inn, C16 5-11. Girdlers Hall, A63 3-10. Glovers Hall, Beech Lane, A20 7-9. Goldsmiths Hall, Foster Lane, B39 5-1. Gray's Inn 7-15. Gresham Colledge 3-7. Grey's House, Lord, A14 8-12. Grocers Hall, B53 7-11. Guild Hall

7-10. Haberdashers Hall, B8 7-12. Hern's House, Sir Nathiel, Loathbury, B54 4-6. Hicks's Hall 7-5. Holborn Bridge ---- [Holy] Trinity Church, Trinity Lane [see Trinity Church] ---- [Holy] Trinity Minories Church [see Trinity Minories]

9-3. Inner Temple, Inner Temple Lane 10-12. Inn-Holders Hall, Elbow Lane, C34 8-17. Ironmongers Hall, Fenchurch Street, B91 11-11. Joyners Hall, Fryer Lane, Thames Street, C37

6-5. Kings Arms Inn, Holborn Bridg, A90 9-7. King's Printing House, C3

5-11. Lariner's Hall, Fore Street, A78 7-16. Lawrence's House, Sir John, Great St. Hellens, B67 8-15. Leaden Hall Market 6-16. Leather-Sellers Hall 7-2. Lincoln's Inn 10-1. Lions Inne 11-14. London Bridg 5-8. London House, A57 9-7. Ludgate 9-10. Lutheran Church, Trinity Lane (N.E. corner Little Trinity Lane)

8-11. Mercer's Chapel 8-14. Merchant-Taylors Hall 10-12. Merchant-Taylors School, Suffolk Lane, C39 9-3. Middle Temple, Middle Temple Lane 8-10. Milkstreet or Hony lane Market ---- [Monument, The, see "Fiery Pillar"]