Part 5

The trigger should also be of maple. Join it with a cross-lap joint. (See page 24.) Then, holding each end successively upright in the vise, draw the slanting lines and saw for 3/8" lengthwise in such a way as to leave 1/16" flat on each of the two adjacent surfaces. After sawing endwise, saw the little corner pieces off crosswise. The trigger has to withstand considerable pulling, so it should fit nicely, yet easily, a 1" screw in its center. Before screwing either the knocker or the trigger in place, lay both on the gun-stock so that they will engage properly; then mark the place for the screws, drill holes, and screw them on. If the knocker touches the rattle, take it off and plane a slanting chip or two where it is screwed to the gun-stock. A thin leather washer 5/8" in diameter will prevent the trigger touching. A little soap will make the trigger turn easier.

The barrel may well be made of a broomstick. To make it fit on the top of the gun-stock, saw it down the middle and cut off the lower half. Before fastening it in place, be sure that it will not touch the sounding part of the rattle.

A still louder and more difficult rattle to make is shown in Fig. 8. Most boys would find it impossible to bore a 1" hole endwise in maple. The knocker and trigger would both have to be set out from the gun-stock.

BOAT--PLATE 30.

This boat is designed rather heavy to insure good service. It has ballast and beam enough to right itself even tho the sails do get wet. If a better looking boat is desired, draw the deck more slender; hollow the hull with bit and gouge; pare the gunwales with the spokeshave to give it some sheer; and nail on a thin deck. Soft pine is the best wood for the hull and spruce for the spars.

To lay out the hull, draw a center-line lengthwise on top, bottom, and ends of the block of wood. Make all the measurements given on the deck; (top of the hull, Plate 30) first lengthwise, then crosswise. Square with the deck, the curve should be worked out with rip-saw and spokeshave. The stem should next be undercut with the saws (rip and crosscut) so as to make place for the rudder. On the bottom leave a flat place 7-1/4" × 1/2" for the keel to fit; then round the hull as suggested by the sectional drawings at AB and CD.

Make the keel and nail it securely in place. From the under side of the boat and slanting the same as the keel and undercut, bore a 5/8" hole for the stem of the rudder.

Make the rudder and tiller of 1/4" wood. The little mortise in the tiller can be cut with a small chisel after a 3/16" hole is bored at its center. For the wheel, make a dowel about 2" long and into one end of it bore a hole about 1" deep for a 1-1/4" screw. Saw a piece from this end 5/8" long and screw it to the deck about 1-1/2" in front of the hole bored for the rudder. The wheel should turn rather hard so as to stay in any position desired.

To make the spars, (mast, boom, etc.,) follow the directions on page 16. Use large screw-eyes in the gaff and boom (or see Plate 16, "method of swinging booms to mast") and a very small one at the top of the mast. To nail the bowsprit securely, place it 1" back of the prow, drive a 1" brad thru it near the prow, and one on each side of it 3/4" back. Bend these latter over the bowsprit before they are driven in their full length. An upward slant is given to the bowsprit by planing its larger end slanting to fit the deck.

The rudder is hung on two staples made of pins. Two headless pins are driven into the rudder and bent down at right angles to slip into these staples. In order that the stem of the rudder may turn enough, the rudder must be hung close to the hull. Each "rope" of the rigging should have its own screw-eye (or staple) and cleat on the deck. The cleat (a device for fastening a "rope" in any position, by winding it back and forth) is simply two slender brads driven slanting.

The mainsail should be 9" on the mast and 11" at its outer edge. It should be hemmed and properly fastened to the spars. On the mast, fine wire rings or loops of thread may be used. The jib should extend 9" up the stay (the "rope" from the end of the bowsprit to the top of the mast) and be either sewed to it or made to slide on it with small rings of wire.

Ballast can be cut (with tin-shears or saw) from lead pipe and nailed to the keel. To drive brads thru lead, pinch them between the thumb and finger, and drive them gently.

For convenience in holding the boat when it is out of the water, make a dry dock as shown in the drawing.

PILE-DRIVER--PLATE 31.

In wet, soft soil, wherever any building operations are to be undertaken, long, straight logs called piles have first to be driven to support the foundation. In wet soil they never rot; those driven for the building of Venice centuries ago are still solid. If holes are bored in the weight of this toy pile-driver, it is made more effective.

This is not a difficult model if each part is well made. It is important, however, to nail it in the following order: Runs to uprights, uprights to sides, sides to base, top to uprights, braces to uprights, then to base. The ends of the braces are mitered, that is, sawed, like the corner of a picture-frame, on the diagonal of a square. The axle of the little spool is made by two 1" brads, and it rests in notches as near the end of the top blocks as is convenient to file them. It is held in place by little brads, or pins crossed over it, or by a staple made of a pin. A crank for the big spool (called the drum) is made of a 3" piece of stiff wire. It should be flattened enough not to turn in the drum. Fasten the string to the drum thru a little hole drilled thru its rim. If the string comes off the upper spool, put a large screw-eye into the top piece and pass the string thru it.

WINDMILL--PLATE 32.

On a hilltop, exposed to every wind that blows, one of these windmills made by a boy has been spinning around for four years. The windmill in this form serves also as a weathervane. Pine is the best wood for this model. To withstand the weather, the model should be painted.

After planing the post to size, lay out the chamfers (see page 32) with a pencil on all four sides. The curve should be cut with a knife; the upper part may be planed if the square part is not squeezed in the vise. Plane the two pieces for the vanes as accurately as possible so as to be able to make a good joint. Lay out and cut this joint as directed on page 24. After it is well fitted, draw the curves where the edges are to be whittled away. There are sixteen of them. Open the compass 3/4" and place the needle point always on the _front right-hand_ edge as the wheel turns around. The curve begins 1/8" from the joint and ends 1/8" from the back edge (one also goes towards the lower edge). From this point draw a straight line to the end of the vane. Draw such lines as explained on page 32. Take the joint apart and whittle the edges away to these curves.

On the beam, make chamfers 1-3/4" long. At the rear end, on the top and bottom, draw a center-line and two lines on each side of the center-line 1/8" apart. Between the first two, nearest the center-line, make the V-shaped groove in which the rudder fits. The sides of the beam are to be pared away to the other two lines, leaving this end 1/2" wide.

The curves at the rear end of the rudder can be sawed best with a scroll saw. Lacking that, proceed as follows: First, bore a 1/4" hole near the short straight line in the middle. Resting the rudder on a cutting board, pare to this line with a chisel. Next, saw straight from the end of the rudder to this straight line; then saw the corners, and pare to the curves. The width of the notch at the front end of the rudder is equal to the space left between the roots of the V-shaped notches in the beam. Measure this space, lay out the notch, saw, and chisel it; then pare the corners so as to fit the V-shaped notches in the beam. Beware of crowding the rudder, for it will split easily. When fitted, glue and nail it in place, slanting a 1" brad thru the curve into the beam.

Put the wheel on the beam with two washers and a large screw (2" No. 12 round head is a good one). For this screw bore a 1/4" hole thru the center of the wheel, and a smaller hole in the beam. Now balance the windmill on the top of the post, and put the beam and post together with washers and screw in the same manner.

KITE-STRING REEL--PLATE 33.

A boy who flies kites will appreciate this reel for hauling in his kite quickly and keeping the string in order. The axle is made long for the purpose of putting on a brake when letting out a kite. The brake is simply a strong cord, fastened to a screw in the lower part of the further upright, (as viewed in Plate 33) wound several times around the axle, and the other end held in the hand. A 1" hole is bored in the base so that the reel can be anchored to the ground with a stake. With a loop of string fastened to the upright below the crank, the crank can be kept from turning, if one does not wish to let out all of the kite-string.

Make the base first, then the uprights. In the uprights, it is more convenient to bore the 9/16" holes before the sides are planed slanting. After the wheel pieces are joined in the manner explained on page 24, lay out the slanting lines on each arm while the joint is still together; then take it apart and plane to the slanting lines. Hold each piece securely slantwise in the vise, because one pair especially is apt to split from the notch outward. When this planing is finished, glue the joint and bore a 1/2" hole straight thru the center. If convenient, make the cross pieces in one long piece, 20", planing off one corner flat (see sectional drawing, Plate 33) within 1/8" of the two adjacent corners. Being careful to drive no brad into the 1/2" hole, glue and nail these four cross pieces to one wheel. Then glue them to the other wheel and wind some string around tightly enough to hold this wheel while adjusting and nailing it. It will require care to get the cross pieces square with the first wheel, and the second wheel parallel with the first. After the string is wound around to hold the second wheel, measure the distance from wheel to wheel at the ends of all the arms. The nailing can be done while one arm of the wheels is held in the vise. The axle and handle should be glued and nailed to the crank. Now put the reel together, not forgetting the washers inside the uprights, and lock the wheels to the axle by drilling a hole for a 2" nail thru cross piece, wheel, and axle.

STRING MACHINE--PLATE 34.

On a machine like this, one can twist bowstrings, topstrings, fish-lines, silk cord for fancy work, and any similar cord. Tho designed to be held on the floor or table with flat-irons, clamps, of course, will hold it better.

Make the tail piece first. In the cross pieces of the tail piece are two screws 7/8" from the ends; be careful to bore the holes large enough so the screws will not split them. The edges of the lower cross piece must be sandpapered enough not to cut the elastic bands.

In order that the belt shall run on the center of the wheels in the head piece, it is important to have the three axles parallel. To make them so, the two uprights must be clamped together while boring the 3/8" holes for the axles. Lest the spur of the bit split the uprights, drill small holes at each center first. Do not nail the longer upright to the base until the belt runs well in both directions. On a lathe, the wheels and axles could easily be made of one piece; lacking a lathe, a big spool or curtain pole must be used. Plug the hole of the spool with a dowel, then very accurately find its center and bore a 3/8" hole thru it. Saw it into three 5/8" pieces for the wheels. Glue these to the axles so that 1" extends thru the taller upright. A belt runs better on a wheel that is "crowned," that is, slightly larger in the middle; so the edges of these wheels must be pared 1/32", making a gentle curve. Put the washers each side of the wheels, then put the wheels in place in the taller upright, and nail this to the triangular block. Pull a 5/8" leather belt tightly around the three wheels and sew the ends so that they butt together. Clamp the shorter upright in position and turn the upper axle to see if the belt runs well in both directions. It will run true when all three axles are parallel, so keep knocking the shorter upright from side to side or up and down until the belt does run true; then bore holes for three screws to hold it to the triangular block. Make the crank and lock it to the upper axle with a 1/2" screw.

To twist a string, set the two parts of the machine somewhat farther apart than the finished length desired, put on as many threads, from hooks on the tail piece to corresponding hooks on the head piece, as will make the finished string the desired size. Observe how these separate threads were twisted, and start the machine in the _opposite_ way. Twist until the three strands kink readily when the head piece is brought nearer the tail piece. The tighter these are twisted, the harder the string will be. (Soap rubbed on the inside of the belt may make the belt carry more power). When these three strands are twisted enough, remove the two lower ones from their _hooks on the head piece_ to the upper hook. Twist in the _opposite_ direction until the string kinks again, and it is made. If the three strands are waxed, a stronger string will be made.

WINDMILL FORCE-PUMP--PLATE 35.

If this pump is properly connected with an air chamber, as explained later, it will send a small stream of water some ten feet. In a gale, the windmill is strong enough, in fact, to force the valves from the glass tubes. Like any model of considerable mechanism, this will require patience to get it in working order. The post is made short for stability. If it can be held in place firmly, a trestlework tower like a real windmill might be built of stock 1/2" × 1/2" for the corner posts and 1/2" × 1/8" for the braces.

The post is slanting on two sides to fit the journals at the top. It is fastened to the base with two 2" screws. Make the wheel center 2-1/8" square, and thru its center bore a 1/4" hole. If it does not revolve true, make another block and try again. Make the block octagonal by cutting off each corner 5/8". On each of the eight faces saw notches 1/8" wide and 5/16" deep into which the vanes will fit. (See page 64 on cutting notches.) Make and glue the vanes in place and lay the wheel flat to dry.

Procure three pieces of water-gage glass 2" long, 7/16" to 1/2" inside diameter. Glass tubes can be broken apart by filing a slight notch, grasping the tube firmly each side of the notch, and pulling and bending the tube away from the notch. If the file starts a little break, this will be comparatively easy, if it does not, file some more. Into two tubes little valves must be cemented. These can be made of a firm piece of leather. Sole leather that is not too hard is best. With knife or chisel, pare two pieces on the cutting board to fit in the tubes. The cement will make them water tight later. Push the sharp point of a penknife into the smooth side of the leather disk and make a circular cut, as one would remove a speck from an apple, but do not cut the flap completely out, because it must be left hinged to the disk. Turn this flap up straight out of the way so as to be able to work a 1/4" hole thru the disk. This can be punched, drilled, or cut out with a 1/8" chisel, and finished with a penknife. Of course, the edges of the flap should cover this hole completely. The valve in the lowest tube should be cemented about 1/2" from the lower end with the flap up, that in the horizontal tube about 3/4" from the outer end with the flap out.

To make sealing-wax sticky enough to cement these valves in the tubes, melt one teaspoon of wax with one-half teaspoon of turpentine in a large spoon, and allow it to cool. Break it in pieces small enough to go in the tubes. Put the valve in the tube a little to one side of its final position; put in some of the wax mixture; heat the tube in an alcohol flame, rolling the tube till the wax begins to melt; remove from the flame; and when the wax is all melted, push the valve to its final position with a pencil. While it is cooling, see that the wax does not flow into the valve. All three tubes must have a piece of rubber tubing on the outside to serve as packing in the wooden block. With an expansive bit, holes can be bored in the block so that the rubber tubing will fit tightly. Lacking that, bore a smaller hole and enlarge it with a round file. The center of the vertical hole is somewhat to the left (as viewed in Plate 35) of the center of the block to allow the horizontal tube more support. This will require the notch in the upright also to be to the left of the center. After the holes are bored, the pores of the wood must be filled with paraffin. In a little dish, melt some paraffin and put it into the holes with a rag tied to a stick. When the holes are well covered, drive the wax into the wood with an alcohol or candle flame held in the hole till the wood is fairly hot. The outside of the block might well be treated in like manner. It will be best to cement these tubes in their places. Melt a tablespoon of sealing wax with about as much turpentine. With this, not too hot, build up a good fillet over the rubber tubing 1/4", perhaps, on the glass tubes.

Make a good fitting piston for the upper tube; it must not slide hard (oil it) and yet it must be air tight. To make the piston file two grooves 1/2" apart around and near the end of the piston rod. Wind a hummock of yarn between these grooves till it almost fills the tube, then wrap a piece of soft cloth (knitted underwear) smoothly over the hummock, tying it in each groove with thread.

Lock the crank to the axle with a 1/2" screw. Adjust the axle and keep it in position with two leather washers locked to the axle just outside the journals. Clamp the block to the base, adjust it in line with the crank, and fasten it with two 1-1/2" screws up thru the base. The last connection to make is between the crank and connecting-rod. To make this, raise the piston to its highest position, and turn the crank to its lowest; choose what seems the best point for the screw, marking the point on crank and connecting-rod; now lower the piston and raise the crank; if the two points do not come together, the screw should be placed half way between them. This screw should be tight in the crank. The wheel can now be glued to the axle or locked with a brad slanting from the front of the wheel center.

Before they will work, the valves must be made limber with water, and to start the pump, water may have to be put on each side of the valves. Water may be pumped to any height by fastening a pipe to the horizontal tube. To obtain a steady stream, like a fire-engine, connect the horizontal tube with an air-tight bottle. The pipe which goes into this bottle should reach just below the stopper. The outlet pipe should nearly reach the bottom of the bottle, and it should have a nozzle smaller than any other opening in the whole apparatus. The bottle should be partly full of water. Quarter-inch glass tubing can be melted and shaped in an alcohol flame, and, if some rubber tubing is used as a connection, the nozzle can be played anywhere.

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