Chapter 52

CARE AND DESCRIPTION OF THE RIFLE

Care

=1321. Importance.= The care of his rifle should be the soldier's first thought; for, if he would have it take care of him in time of danger, he must take care of it at all times.

_It is a generally recognized fact that more rifles become inaccurate and unserviceable by the lack of care than by firing._

The instructions for taking care of the rifle are few and simple. Learn them well and _apply them constantly_--it only requires a little care and patience. You will be well repaid for it. It may some day save your life.

=1322. Care of bore requires work.= The bore of the rifle is manufactured with the greatest care in order that a high degree of accuracy may be obtained, and it should, therefore, be properly cared for.

The proper care of the bore requires conscientious, careful work, but it pays well in reduced labor of cleaning and in prolonged accuracy life of the rifle, and better results in target practice.

=1323. How to clean the bore.= With the cleaning rod the bore must always be cleaned from the breech--never from the muzzle. Cleaning from the muzzle is liable to wear and otherwise injure the mouth of the barrel, which is easily injured and thus the piece rendered inaccurate.

First, remove the bolt from the rifle, place the muzzle on the floor, a board, or piece of canvas, and do not remove it therefrom while the cleaning rod is in the bore. Never place the muzzle on the bare ground, lest dirt should get into it. (Note. Of course, if a rack is provided for cleaning rifles, it should be used instead of placing the muzzle on the floor.)

To clean the bore use patches of rag, preferably canton flannel, cutting them into squares of such size that they may easily run through the barrel.

=1324. What care of the bore consists of.= Briefly stated, the care of the bore consists of removing the fouling resulting from firing to obtain a chemically clean surface, and then coating this surface with a film of oil to prevent rusting.

=1325. Kinds of fouling.= The fouling which results from firing is of two kinds--the _powder fouling_, from the burning of the powder; and the _metal fouling_, from the nickel scraped off the bullet as it passes through the bore.

The _powder fouling_ is highly corrosive, that is, it causes rust and eats into the metal, and it must, therefore, be removed as soon as possible.

The _metal fouling_ itself will not cause rust, but it may cover the powder fouling and thus prevent the cleaning material from getting at the powder fouling, which, as stated before, will eat into the metal. When metal fouling accumulates in noticeable quantities it reduces the accuracy of the rifle.

=1326. How to remove powder fouling.= Powder fouling may be readily removed by scrubbing the bore with the soda solution (hot) furnished by the Ordnance Department, but this solution has no effect on the metal fouling.

It is, therefore, necessary to remove all metal fouling before we are sure that all powder fouling has been removed and that the bore may be safely oiled.

Ordinarily, after firing a barrel in good condition, the metal fouling is so slight as to be hardly perceptible, and is easily removed by solvents.

However, due to the accumulation of metal fouling, pitting (little hollows in the metal) or the presence of dust, or other abrasives (substances that cause the metal to wear away by rubbing), the fouling may occur in clearly visible flakes or patches and be much more difficult to remove.

=1327. How to remove metal fouling.= After scrubbing out the bore with the soda solution, plug it from the breech with a cork at the front end of the chamber or where the rifling begins.

Slip one of the 2-inch sections of rubber hose over the muzzle down to the sight and fill with the standard Ordnance Department solution to at least one-half inch above the muzzle of the barrel.

Let it stand for 30 minutes, then pour out the solution, remove the hose and breech plug, and swab out thoroughly with soda solution to neutralize and remove all trace of ammonia and powder fouling.

Wipe the barrel clean, dry, and oil.

With few exceptions, one application is sufficient, but if all fouling is not removed, repeat the operation.

Hoppe's Nitro Solvent No. 9 will accomplish the same result even better and quicker and with much less labor.

=1328. How to proceed in cleaning the bore.=

To clean the bore after firing, proceed as follows:

Swab out the bore with soda solution to remove powder fouling. A convenient way to do this is to insert the muzzle of the rifle into the can containing the solution and with the cleaning rod inserted from the breech, pump the barrel full a few times.

Remove and dry with a couple of patches of cloth. Examine to see whether any patches of metal fouling are in evidence, and if so, then remove same as explained above. If no metal fouling is in evidence, then swab out with the swabbing solution. The amount of swabbing required with the swabbing solution can be determined only by experience assisted by the color of the patches of cloth. Ordinarily a couple of minutes' work is sufficient. Dry thoroughly, and oil with 3-in-One.

As a measure of safety a patch should _always_ be run through the bore on the next day and the bore examined to insure that cleaning has been properly done. The bore should then be oiled again with 3-in-One.

=1329. Necessity for preventing formation of pits.= It is a fact recognized by all that a highly polished steel surface rusts much less easily than one which is roughened; also that a barrel which is pitted fouls much more rapidly than one which is smooth. Every effort, therefore, should be made to prevent the formation of pits, which are merely enlarged rust spots, and which not only affect the accuracy of the piece but also increase the labor of cleaning.

=If swabbing solution or standard metal fouling solution is not available=, the barrel should be scrubbed as already described, with the soda solution, dried, and oiled with a light oil. At the end of 24 hours it should again be cleaned, when it will usually be found to have "sweated." Usually a second cleaning is sufficient, but to insure safety it should be again examined at the end of a few days, before final oiling.

Of course, the swabbing solution should always be used, if available, for it must be remembered that =each "puff" when the bore "sweats" is an incipient rust pit=.

What has just been said contemplates the use of the solutions furnished by the Ordnance Department. However, the same result will be obtained with less labor by using Hoppe's Nitro Powder Solvent No. 9, which is sold by all post and camp exchanges, and which the Author, as the result of experience, highly recommends.

=1330. How to oil a barrel.= The proper method of oiling a barrel is as follows:

Wipe the cleaning rod dry; select a clean patch of cloth and smear it well with sperm or warmed cosmic oil, being sure that the cosmic has soaked into the patch well; scrub the bore with patch, finally drawing the patch smoothly from the muzzle to the breech, allowing the cleaning rod to turn with the rifling. The bore will be found now to be smooth and bright so that any subsequent rust or "sweating" can be easily detected by inspection. (By "sweating" is meant, rust having formed under the coating of metal fouling where powder fouling was present, the surface is puffed up.)

=1331. Care of the chamber.= The chamber of the rifle is often neglected because it is not readily inspected. Care should be taken to see that it is cleaned as thoroughly as the bore. A roughened chamber delays greatly the rapidity of fire, and not infrequently causes shells to stick.

=1332. The bolt.= To clean the bolt, remove; clean all parts thoroughly with an oily rag; dry, and before assembling _lightly_ oil the firing pin, the barrel of the sleeve, the striker, the well of the bolt, and all cams.

=1333. The sights.= Both the front and rear sights should be cared for just as you would care for the works of your watch. If the sights are injured, the rifle will not shoot as aimed.

The front sight cover issued by the Ordnance Department protects the front sight.

=1334. The magazine.= The magazine should be kept clean and covered with a thin coat of oil.

=1335. The stock.= The stock should receive a light coat of raw linseed oil once a month, or after any wetting from rain, dew, etc. The oil should be thoroughly rubbed in with the hand.

=1336. Care of the mechanism.= When the rifle has been wet or exposed to unfavorable climatic conditions, the bolt should be withdrawn and all working parts carefully wiped with a dry cloth, and then gone over with an oily rag.

The same thing should be done after firing.

All working parts should habitually be _lightly_ oiled with a thin-bodied oil, such as "3-in-One."

=1337. The care of all metal parts.= All metal parts of the rifle should be kept clean and free from rust.

=1338. Cams and bearings.= All cams and bearings must be kept constantly oiled.

=1339. How to apply oil.= Do not pour or squirt oil on the rifle.

Put a few drops on a piece of clean cloth, preferably cotton, and rub with the cloth, thereby avoiding the use of an unnecessary amount.

Cams and bearings can be oiled this way. However, if the oiler is used instead because of greater ease in reaching them, oil them _lightly_. To soak with oil accomplishes no more than to cover with a light coating--it merely results in excessive, undesirable smearing and a waste of oil.

Remember

=1340.= 1. It is easier to prevent than to remove rust.

2. To remove rust, apply oil with a rag, and let it stand for a while so as to soften the rust; then wipe with a dry rag.

3. Emery paper or a burnisher must never be used in removing rust, for it also removes the bluing.

However, an ordinary rubber eraser will be found very serviceable for removing rust.

4. To prevent rust and dirt in the bore, run a rag through at least once each day.

5. Never, under any circumstances, put away a rifle that has been fired or exposed to bad weather, without first cleaning it.

6. Never lay your rifle flat on the ground. Not only is there danger of dirt or other foreign matter getting into the bore, but a vehicle may run over it, or some one may step on the sight. Always rest it up _securely_ against something. On the target range it is well for every soldier to have a short wood or metal fork, on which to rest his rifle.

7. In coming to the order from any position, always bring the rifle to the ground _gently_.

Army Regulations Regarding the Rifle

=1341.= _Are enlisted men allowed to take their arms apart?_

No; not unless they have the permission of a commissioned officer, and even then only under proper supervision and in the manner prescribed in the descriptive pamphlet issued by the Ordnance Department. (A. R. 292.)

(Except when repairs are needed, the following named parts should never be dismounted by the soldier, and whenever they are taken apart they should be removed only by the company mechanic, or someone else familiar with the handling of tools and delicate mechanism: Bolt stop, cut off, safety lock, sleeve lock, front sight, front sight movable stud, lower band, upper band, and stacking swivel screws.)

(Unless the screw driver is handled carefully and with some skill the screws are sure to be injured either at the head or thread. The soldier may dismount the bolt and magazine mechanism for the purpose of cleaning them, but he is not permitted to do any further dismounting without the authority of a commissioned officer.)

_Is the polishing of blued and browned parts permitted?_

No, and rebluing, rebrowning, putting any portion of an arm in fire, removing a receiver from a barrel, mutilating any part by fire or otherwise, and attempting to beautify or change the finish, are prohibited. However, the prohibition of attempts to beautify or change the finish of arms is not construed as forbidding the application of raw linseed oil to the wood parts of arms. This oil is considered necessary for the preservation of the wood, and it may be used for such polishing as can be given when rubbing in one or more coats when necessary. The use of raw linseed oil only is allowed for redressing and the application for such purpose of any kind of wax or varnish, including heelball, is strictly prohibited. (Army Regulations 292.)

_Is the use of tompions[17] in small arms permitted?_

No, it is prohibited by regulations. (Army Regulations 292.)

_Should pieces be unloaded before being taken to quarters or tents?_

Yes, unless it is otherwise ordered. They should also be unloaded as soon as the men using them are relieved from duty. (Army Regulations 292.)

_Should a loaded or unloaded rifle or revolver ever be pointed at anyone in play?_

No, under no circumstances whatsoever. _A soldier should never point a rifle or revolver at a person unless he intends to shoot him._

Description

=1342. Nomenclature of the rifle.= The illustrations on this page and those on the two following pages give the nomenclature of the rifles, with which every soldier should be familiar.

The bolt (Fig. 2) consists of the _handle_, A; _sleeve_, B; _safety lock_, C; _Cocking piece_, D; _safety lug_, E; _extractor_, F; _extractor collar_, G; _locking lugs_, H; _extractor tongue groove_, I; and _gas escape hole_, J.

=1343. Rear-sight leaf; drift slide; wind gauge.= The illustration on the opposite page shows the _rear sight leaf_ (raised), the _drift slide_ (E), and the _wind gauge_ (F, L.). It is most important that the soldier be thoroughly familiar with the use of these parts, for otherwise it is impossible for him to sight correctly and use his rifle properly.

The leaf is graduated from 100 to 2850 yards. The lines that extend the whole way across the two branches of the leaf, mark 100 yard divisions; those that extend about half way across, mark 50 yard divisions, and the shorter lines mark 25 yard divisions.

The _even_ numbers (4, 6, 8, etc.) on the _left_ branch of the leaf, indicate 400, 600, 800, etc, yards.

The _odd_ numbered hundreds of yards (300, 500, 700, etc.) are on the _right_ branch of the leaf.

_The numbers rest on top of the lines to which they refer._

So, if you want to fire at a target 800 yards away, set the rear sight at 8; 1,000 yards, at 10; 1,200 yards, at 12, etc.

With the fly leaf up, ranges from 100 to 2350 yards can be obtained through the _peep hole_, K; from 100 to 2450 through the lower _peep notch_, J; and from 1400 to 2750 yards through the upper _peep notch_, G.

There is a horizontal line on the drift slide, across the _peep hole_, K. If the _peep hole_ sight is used the sight is set by this horizontal line, which is set opposite the proper graduation (line across branch of leaf).

If the _peep notch_, J, is used, the sight is set by the short horizontal line--that is, on a line with the top of the notch.

If the _peep notch_, G, is used, the sight is set by the top of the _slide_, C, which is set on the proper graduation.

Care must be taken not to use one of the _peep notches_ when the sight has been set for the _peep hole_, or not to do the reverse, without first changing the sight.

The _sighting notch_, A, used when the range is 2850 yards, is hardly ever used, because the rifle is very, very seldom, if ever, fired at that range.

By _battle sight_ we mean the position of the rear sight with the leaf down, and it corresponds to a sight setting of 530 yards. The notch, H, that is used when the leaf is down is called the _battle sight notch_. The battle sight is the only one used in _rapid fire_. In unexpected, close encounters the side that first opens a rapid and accurate fire has a great advantage over the other.

FOOTNOTES:

[17] Wooden stoppers or plugs that are put into the muzzles of rifles and other arms to keep out dirt and water.