CHAPTER II.

ARMS, UNIFORMS, AND EQUIPMENT.

=Section 1. The rifle.=

The rifle now used by the Army of the United States is the United States magazine rifle, model of 1903, caliber .30.

It is 43.212 inches long and weighs 8.69 pounds.

The bayonet weighs 1 pound and the blade is 16 inches long.

The rifle is sighted for ranges up to 2,850 yards.

The maximum range, when elevated at an angle of 45 degrees, is 4,891 yards (389 yards less than 3 miles).

The smooth bore of the rifle is 0.30 inch in diameter. It is then rifled 0.004 inch deep, making the diameter from the bottom of one groove to the bottom of the opposite groove 0.308 inch. The rifling makes one complete turn in each 10 inches of the barrel.

The accompanying plate shows the names of the principal parts of the rifle.

The only parts of a rifle that an enlisted man is permitted to take apart are the bolt mechanism and the magazine mechanism. Learn how to do this from your squad leader, for you must know how in order to keep your rifle clean. Never remove the hand guard or the trigger guard, nor take the sights apart unless you have special permission from a commissioned officer.

The cartridge used for the rifle is called the .30-caliber model 1906 cartridge. There are four types of cartridges.

=The ball cartridge= consists of the brass case or shell, the primer, the charge of smokeless powder, and the bullet. The bullet has a sharp point, is composed of a lead core and a jacket of cupro nickel, and weighs 150 grains. The bullet of this cartridge, when fired from the rifle, starts with an initial velocity at the muzzle of 2,700 feet per second.

=The blank cartridge= contains a paper cup instead of a bullet. It it dangerous up to 100 feet. Firing blank cartridges at a represented enemy at ranges less than 100 yards is prohibited.

=The guard cartridge= has a smaller charge of powder than the ball cartridge, and five cannelures encircle the body of the shell at about the middle to distinguish it from the ball cartridge. It is intended for use on guard or in riot duty, and gives good results up to 200 yards. The range of 100 yards requires a sight elevation of 450 yards, and the range of 200 yards requires an elevation of 650 yards.

=The dummy cartridge= is tin plated and the shell is provided with six longitudinal corrugations and three circular holes. The primer contains no percussion composition. It is intended for drill purposes to accustom the soldier to the operation of loading the rifle.

All cartridges are secured five in a clip to enable five cartridges to be inserted into the magazine at one motion. Sixty ball cartridges in 12 clips are packed in a cloth bandoleer to facilitate issue and carrying. When full the bandoleer weighs about 3.88 pounds. Bandoleers are packed 20 in a box, or 1,200 rounds in all. The full box weighs 99 pounds.

=Section 2. Care of the rifle.=

Every part of the rifle must be kept free from rust, dust, and dirt. A dirty or rusty rifle is a sure sign that the soldier does not realize the value of his weapon, and that his training is incomplete. The rifle you are armed with is the most accurate in the world. If it gets dirty or rusty it will deteriorate in its accuracy and working efficiency, and no subsequent care will restore it to its original condition. =The most important part of the rifle to keep clean is the bore.= If, after firing, the bore is left dirty over night, it will be badly rusted in the morning; therefore your rifle must be cleaned not later than the evening of the day on which it was fired. The fouling of the blank cartridge is as dangerous to the bore as the fouling of the ball cartridge.

Never attempt to polish any part that is blued. If rust appears, remove by rubbing with oil. Never use emery paper, pomade, or any preparation that cuts or scratches, to clean any part of the rifle.

To beautify and preserve the stock rub with raw linseed, oil. The use of any other preparation on the stock is strictly forbidden.

Always handle your rifle with care. Don't throw it around as though it were a club. Don't stand it up against anything so that it rests against the front sight. Don't leave a stopper or a rag in the bore; it will cause rust to form at that point. It may also cause the gun barrel to burst if a shot is fired before removing it.

Guard the sights and muzzle carefully from any blow that might injure them. The front sight cover should always be on the rifle except when rifle is being fired. This is especially necessary to protect the front sight while rifle is being carried in scabbard by a mounted man.

In coming to the "order arms," lower the piece =gently= to the ground.

When there is a cartridge in the chamber the piece is always carried locked. In this position the safety lock should be kept turned fully to the right, since if it be turned to the left nearly to the "ready" position and the trigger be pulled, the rifle will be discharged when the safety lock is turned to the "ready" position at any time later on.

Cartridges can not be loaded from the magazine unless the bolt is drawn fully to the rear. When the bolt is closed, or only partly open, the cut-off may be turned up or down as desired, but if the bolt is drawn fully to the rear, the magazine can not be cut off unless the top cartridge or the follower be pressed down slightly and the bolt pushed forward so that the cut-off may be turned "off."

In the case of a misfire, don't open the bolt immediately, as it may be a hangfire. Misfires are often due to the fact that the bolt handle was not fully pressed down. Sometimes in pulling the trigger the soldier raises the bolt handle without knowing it.

Unless otherwise ordered, arms will be unloaded before being taken to quarters or tents, or as soon as the men using them are relieved from duty.

=Keep the working parts oiled.=

In every troop there should be at least one copy of the Manual of the Ordnance Department entitled "Description and Rules for the Management of the U. S. Magazine Rifle." This manual gives the name and a cut of every part of the rifle, explains its use, shows how to take the rifle apart and care for the same, and also gives much other valuable and interesting information.

=Section 3. Cleaning the rifle.=

"=Cleaning the rifle.=--(_a_) The proper care of the bore requires conscientious, careful work, but it pays well in the attainment of reduced labor of cleaning, prolonged accuracy life of the barrel, and better results in target practice. Briefly stated, the care of the bore consists in removing the fouling, resulting from firing, to obtain a chemically clean surface, and in coating this surface with a film of oil to prevent rusting. The fouling which results from firing is of two kinds--one, the products of combustion of the powder; the other, cupro-nickel scraped off (under the abrading action of irregularities or grit in the bore). Powder fouling, because of its acid reaction, is highly corrosive; that is, it will induce rust and must be removed. Metal fouling of itself is inactive, but may cover powder fouling and prevent the action of cleaning agents until removed, and when accumulated in noticeable quantities it reduces the accuracy of the rifle.

(_b_) Powder fouling may be readily removed by scrubbing with hot soda solution, but this solution has no effect on the metal fouling of cupro-nickel. It is necessary, therefore, to remove all metal fouling before assurance can be had that all powder fouling has been removed and that the bore may be safely oiled. Normally, after firing a barrel in good condition the metal fouling is so slight as to be hardly perceptible. It is merely a smear of infinitesimal thickness, easily removed by solvents of cupro-nickel. However, due to pitting, the presence of dust, other abrasives, or to accumulation, metal fouling may occur in clearly visible flakes or patches of much greater thickness, much more difficult to remove.

(_c_) In cleaning the bore after firing it is well to proceed as follows: Swab out the bore with soda solution (subparagraph _j_) to remove powder fouling. A convenient method is to insert the muzzle of the rifle into the can containing the soda solution and, with the cleaning rod inserted from the breech, pump the barrel full a few times. Remove and dry with a couple of patches. Examine the bore to see that there are in evidence no patches of metal fouling which, if present, can be readily detected by the naked eye, then swab out with the swabbing solution--a dilute metal-fouling solution (subparagraph _j_). The amount of swabbing required with the swabbing solution can be determined only by experience, assisted by the color of the patches. Swabbing should be continued, however, as long as the wiping patch is discolored by a bluish-green stain. Normally a couple of minutes' work is sufficient. Dry thoroughly and oil.

(_d_) The proper method of oiling a barrel is as follows; Wipe the cleaning rod dry; select a clean patch and thoroughly saturate it with sperm oil or warmed cosmic, being sure that the cosmic has penetrated the patch; scrub the bore with the patch, finally drawing the patch smoothly from the muzzle to the breech, allowing the cleaning rod to turn with the rifling. The bore will be found now to be smooth and bright so that any subsequent rust and sweating can be easily detected by inspection.

(_e_) If patches of metal fouling are seen upon visual inspection of the bore the standard metal fouling solution prepared as hereinafter prescribed must be used. After scrubbing out with the soda solution, plug the bore from the breech with a cork at the front end of the chamber or where the rifling begins. Slip a 2-inch section of rubber hose over the muzzle down to the sight and fill with the standard solution to at least one-half inch above the muzzle of the barrel. Let it stand for 30 minutes, pour out the standard solution, remove hose and breech plug, and swab out thoroughly with soda solution to neutralize and remove all trace of ammonia and powder fouling. Wipe the barrel clean, dry, and oil. With few exceptions, one application is sufficient, but if all fouling is not removed, as determined by careful visual inspection of the bore and of the wiping patches, repeat as described above.

(_f_) After properly cleaning with either the swabbing solution or the standard solution, as has just been described, the bore should be clean and safe to oil and put away, but as a measure of safety a patch should always be run through the bore on the next day and the bore and wiping patch examined to insure that cleaning has been properly accomplished. The bore should then be oiled, as described above.

(_g_) If the swabbing solution or the standard metal-fouling solution is not available, the barrel should be scrubbed, as already described, with the soda solution, dried, and oiled with a light oil. At the end of 24 hours it should again be cleaned, when it will usually be found to have "sweated"; that is, rust having formed under the smear of metal fouling where powder fouling was present, the surface is puffed up. Usually a second cleaning is sufficient, but to insure safety it should be again examined at the end of a few days, before final oiling. The swabbing solution should always be used, if available, for it must be remembered that each puff when the bore "sweats" is an incipient rust pit.

(_h_) A. clean dry surface having been obtained, to prevent rust it is necessary to coat every portion of this surface with a film of neutral oil. If the protection required is but temporary and the arm is to be cleaned or fired in a few days, sperm oil may be used. This is easily applied and easily removed, but has not sufficient body to hold its surface for more than a few days. If rifles are to be prepared for storage or shipment, a heavier oil, such as cosmic, must be used.

(_i_) In preparing arms for storage or shipment they should be cleaned with particular care, using the metal-fouling solution as described above. Care should be taken, insured by careful inspection on succeeding day or days, that the cleaning is properly done and all traces of ammonia solution removed. The bore is then ready to be coated with cosmic. At ordinary temperatures cosmic is not fluid. In order, therefore, to insure that every part of the surface is coated with a film of oil the cosmic should be warmed. Apply the cosmic first with a brush; then, with the breech plugged, fill the barrel to the muzzle, pour out the surplus, remove the breechblock, and allow to drain. It is believed that more rifles are ruined by improper preparation for storage than from any other cause. If, the bore is not clean when oiled--that is, if powder fouling is present or rust has started--a half inch of cosmic on the outside will not stop its action, and the barrel will be ruined. Remember that the surface must be perfectly cleaned before the heavy oil is applied. If the instructions as given above are carefully followed, arms may be stored for years without harm.

(_j_) Preparation of solutions:

_Soda solution._--This should be a saturated solution of sal soda (bicarbonate of soda). A strength of at least 20 per cent is necessary. The spoon referred to in the following directions is the model 1910 spoon issued in the mess outfit.

Sal soda, one-fourth pound, or four (4) heaping spoonfuls.

Water, 1 pint or cup, model of 1910, to upper rivets.

The sal soda will dissolve more readily in hot water.

_Swabbing solution._--Ammonium persulphate, 60 grains, one-half spoonful smoothed off.

Ammonia, 28 per cent, 6 ounces, or three-eighths of a pint, or 12 spoonfuls.

Water, 4 ounces, or one-fourth pint, or 8 spoonfuls.

Dissolve the ammonium persulphate in the water and add the ammonia. Keep in tightly corked bottle; pour out only what is necessary at the time, and keep the bottle corked.

_Standard metal fouling solution._--Ammonium persulphate, 1 ounce, or 2 medium heaping spoonfuls.

Ammonium carbonate, 200 grains, or 1 heaping spoonful.

Ammonia, 28 per cent, 6 ounces, or three-eighths pint, or 12 spoonfuls.

Water, 4 ounces, or one-fourth pint, or 8 spoonfuls.

Powder the persulphate and carbonate together, dissolve in the water and add the ammonia; mix thoroughly and allow to stand for one hour before using. It should be kept in a strong bottle, tightly corked. The solution should not be used more than twice, and used solution should not be mixed with unused solution, but should be bottled separately. The solution, when mixed, should be used within 30 days. Care should be exercised in mixing and using this solution to prevent injury to the rifle. An experienced noncommissioned officer should mix the solution and superintend its use.

Neither of these ammonia solutions have any appreciable action on steel when not exposed to the air, but If allowed to evaporate on steel they attack it rapidly. Care should, therefore, be taken that none spills on the mechanism and that the barrel is washed out promptly with soda solution. The first application of soda solution removes the greater portion of the powder fouling and permits a more effective and economical use of the ammonia solution. These ammonia solutions are expensive and should be used economically.

(_k_) It is a fact recognized by all that a highly polished steel surface-rusts, much less easily than one which is roughened; also that a barrel which is pitted fouls much more rapidly than one which is smooth. Every effort, therefore, should be made to prevent the formation of pits, which are merely enlarged rust spots, and which not only affect the accuracy of the arm but increase the labor of cleaning.

(_l_) The chambers of rifles are frequently neglected because they are not readily inspected. Care should be taken to see that they are cleaned as thoroughly as the bore. A roughened chamber delays greatly the rapidity of fire, and not infrequently causes shells to stick.

(_m_) A cleaning rack should be provided for every barrack. Rifles should always be cleaned from the breach, thus avoiding possible injury to the rifling at the muzzle, which would affect the shotting adversely. If the bore for a length of 6 inches at the muzzle is perfect, a minor injury near the chamber will have little effect on the accuracy of the rifle. The rifle should be cleaned as soon as the firing for the day is completed. The fouling is easier to remove then, and if left longer it will corrode the barrel.

(_n_) The principles as outlined above apply equally well for the care of the barrel of the automatic pistol. Special attention should be paid to cleaning the chamber of the pistol, using the soda solution. It has been found that the chamber pits readily if it is not carefully cleaned, with the result that the operation of the pistol is made less certain." (_Par, 134, Small Arms Firing Manual, 1913._)

=Section 4. Uniforms.=

Uniforms and clothing issued to enlisted men must not be sold, pawned, loaned, given away, lost, or damaged through neglect or carelessness. Any soldier who violates this rule may be tried by a military court and punished.

All uniforms and articles of clothing issued to enlisted men, whether or not charged on their clothing allowance, remain the property of the United States and do not become the property of the soldier either before or after discharge from the service. Under the law a soldier honorably discharged from the Army of the United States is authorized to wear his uniform from the place of his discharge to his home within three months after the date of such discharge. To wear the uniform after three months from the date of such discharge renders such person liable to fine or imprisonment, or both.

The =dress uniform= dismounted (the blue uniform) consists of the dress cap, dress coat, dress trousers, and russet-leather shoes. The straight, standing, military, white linen collar, showing no opening in front, is always worn with this uniform, with not to exceed one-half inch showing above the collar of the coat. Turndown, piccadilly, or roll collars are not authorized.

When under arms, white gloves and the garrison belt are worn. The dress uniform mounted is the same as dismounted, except that riding gloves, leggings, and spurs are worn, and the saddle cloth, showing regimental number and troop letter, is placed over the saddle blanket.

The =full-dress uniform= is the same as the dress uniform, with the breast cord added.

The =service uniform= is either cotton (summer) or woolen (winter) olive drab.

For duty in the field it consists of the service hat, with cord sewed on, service coat or sweater, service breeches, olive-drab flannel shirt, leggings, russet-leather shoes, spurs, riding gloves, and identification tag. In cold weather olive-drab woolen gloves may be prescribed.

In warm weather the coat, sweater, and riding gloves may be omitted when authorized by the commanding officer.

When not in the field, the service cap is worn instead of the campaign hat. Under arms, dismounted, white gloves and the garrison belt (or russet-leather belt and cartridge box) are worn.

Spurs and riding gloves are worn on all mounted duty or when on mounted pass.

Wear the exact uniform prescribed by your commanding officer, whether you are on duty or off duty.

Never wear a mixed uniform as, for instance, a part of the service uniform with the blue uniform.

Never wear any part of the uniform with civilian clothes. It is very unsoldierly, for example, to wear a civilian overcoat over the uniform or to wear the uniform overcoat over a civilian suit.

Keep the uniform clean and neat and in good repair.

Grease spots and dust and dirt should be removed as soon as possible.

Rips and tears should be promptly mended. In taking the field always wear new clothing as it may be some time before you are again supplied, and old clothing on field service goes to pieces rapidly.

Missing buttons and cap and collar ornaments should be promptly replaced.

There is but one correct and soldierly way to wear the cap. Never wear it on the back or side of the head.

The service hat should be worn in the regulation shape, peaked, with four indentations, and with hat cord sewed on. Do not cover it with pen or pencil marks. The chin cord should always be in order and fit for long field service.

Never appear outside your room or tent with your coat or olive-drab shirt unbuttoned or collar of coat unhooked. Chevrons, service stripes, and campaign medals and badges are a part of the uniform and must be worn as prescribed.

When coats are not worn with the service uniform olive-drab shirts are prescribed.

Suspenders must never be worn exposed to view.

Never appear in breeches without leggings.

Leather leggings should be kept clean. Saddle soap should be used to clean _all leather_. Should the shoes, leggings, or leather equipment be soaked by rain or swimming they will not become hard if covered with a light coat of neat's-foot oil applied just before they dry out. All new leather should be oiled before being placed in service. Leather can be preserved for years by the use of saddle soap and neat's-foot oil, but once it becomes hard and cracked nothing will make it serviceable. Canvas leggings should be scrubbed when dirty.

Russet-leather (tan) shoes should be kept clean. Leather cleaned with saddle soap can be polished by rubbing with a flannel cloth.

The overcoat when worn must be buttoned throughout and the collar hooked. When the belt is worn it will be worn outside the overcoat.

=Section 5. The service kit.=

The service kit is composed of two parts--(_a_) the field kit, which includes everything the soldier wears or carries with him in the field, and (_b_) the surplus kit.

The field kit consists of--

(1) The clothing worn on the person. (2) Arms and equipment, consisting of--

(_a_) Arms and equipments of all enlisted men (except buglers and members of bands and machine-gun troops):

1 brush and thong.[1] 1 canteen, cavalry.[2] 1 canteen strap, cavalry.[2] 90 cartridges, ball, caliber .30 21 cartridges, ball, pistol, caliber .45. 1 cartridge belt, caliber .30, cavalry. 1 cartridge-belt suspenders, pair. 1 cup 1 fork. 1 front-sight cover 1 gun sling. 1 knife. 2 magazines, pistol, extra. 1 magazine pocket web, double 1 meat can 1 oiler and thong case.[1]. 1 pistol 1 pistol holster. 1 pouch for first-aid packet. 1 rifle scabbard. 1 rifle, United States, caliber .30. 1 saber and scabbard, cavalry. 1 saber knot. 1 saber straps, pair. 1 spoon. 1 spurs, pair. 1 spur straps, set.

(_b_) Members of bands and buglers:

1 canteen, cavalry.[2] 1 canteen strap, cavalry.[2] 21 cartridges, ball, pistol, caliber .45. 1 cup. 1 fork. 1 knife. 2 magazines, pistol, extra. 1 meat can. 1 pistol belt without saber ring. 1 pistol. 1 pistol holster. 1 pouch for first-aid packet. 1 spoon. 1 spurs, pair. 1 spur straps, set.

(_c_) In addition to (_b_) first sergeant of headquarters troop (drum major) will have:

1 saber and scabbard, cavalry, 2 saber straps. 1 saber knot.

(_d_) For members of machine-gun troops, except that buglers attached to machine-gun troops (only) will have 1 pistol belt without saber ring in lieu of 1 cartridge belt, 1 cartridge-belt suspenders, pair, and 1 magazine pocket, web, double:

1 bolo. 1 bolo scabbard. 1 canteen, cavalry.[4] 1 canteen strap, cavalry.[4] 21 cartridges, ball, pistol, caliber .45. 1 cartridge belt, caliber .30, cavalry. 1 cartridge-belt suspenders, pair. 1 cup. 1 fork. 1 knife. 2 magazines, pistol, extra. 1 magazine pocket, web, doubles. 1 meat can. 1 pistol. 1 pistol holster. 1 pouch for first-aid packet. 1 spoon. 1 spurs, pair. 1 spur straps, set.

(_e_) Horse equipments for each enlisted man individually mounted on a horse:

1 bridle, cavalry, model of 1909 or 1912, or curb bridle, model of 1902. 1 bridle, watering, if curb bridle model of 1902 is issued. 1 currycomb. 1 halter headstall. 1 halter tie rope. 1 horse brush. 1 lariat. 1 lariat strap. 1 link 1 nose bag, or feed bag (with grain bag). 1 picket pin. 1 saddle, cavalry, complete.[3] 1 saddlebags, pair. 1 saddle blanket. 1 surcingle.

[Footnote 1: To be omitted if rifle is provided with spare-part container.]

[Footnote 2: In lieu of these the canteen, model of 1910, with canteen cover, dismounted, may be issued.]

[Footnote 3: One saddle for each troop and the saddles for the 2 color sergeants are to be provided with a guidon stirrup.]

[Footnote 4: In lieu of these the canteen, model of 1910, with canteen cover, dismounted, may be issued.]

=Care of saddlery.

(Cav. Drill Reg. 1916.)=

=975.= The saddlery and equipment must always be cleaned after use. This duty, like the care of the horse, is to be regarded as part of the mounted duty itself; thus a drill is not over until horse, saddlery, arms, and equipments have been put again in condition. According to need, the leather is simply wiped off with a damp sponge or fully taken apart and well soaped and cleaned. In no case must it be soaked in water.

If the soap used does not contain a sufficient amount of free oil the leather must be oiled to keep it pliable. A mixture of one-half neat's-foot oil and one-half mutton tallow, well rubbed in, keeps leather in good condition. Special care is taken to keep the underside of the skirts of the saddle and the parts which do not come in contact with the clothing well oiled. The seat and outside of the skirts will rarely require oil.

Metal parts are kept clean and free from rust; they may require oiling if not regularly used.

The saddle blanket must be kept clean and soft and free from wrinkles. After use it must be dried and then well shaken (unfolded). It must never be folded wet and left thus with the saddle. Provision will be made in the saddle room or stables for hanging it up to dry.

When necessary the blanket should be thoroughly cleansed by repeated immersions in tepid soapsuds and hung over a pole or line to dry without wringing or pressing it.

=Section 6. The surplus kit.=

The surplus kit for each man consists of-- 1 breeches, pair. 1 drawers, pair. 1 shirt, olive drab. 1 shoes, russet-leather, pair. 2 stockings, pair. 1 undershirt. 1 shoe laces, extra, pair.

Each surplus kit bag contains 1 jointed cleaning rod and case.

Squad leaders are responsible that surplus kit bags are kept in order and fully packed in the field.[5] Men are allowed access to them for the purpose of making substitutions.

The surplus kits are packed in surplus kit bags, one for each squad, one for sergeants, and one for cooks and buglers.

The kit of each man will be packed as follows:

Stockings to be rolled tightly, one pair in the toe of each shoe; shoes placed together, heels at opposite ends, soles outward, wrapped tightly in underwear, and bundle securely tied around the middle by the extra pair of the shoe laces, each bundle to be tagged with the company number of the owner. These individual kits will be packed in the surplus kit bag in two layers of four kits each, the breeches and olive drab shirts to be neatly folded and packed on the top and sides of the layers, the jointed cleaning rod and case, provided for each squad, being attached by the thongs on the inside of the bag.

When overcoats or sweaters are not prescribed to be worn on the person they will be collected into bundles of convenient size and secured by burlap or other suitable material, or will be boxed. They will be marked ready for shipment to be forwarded when required.[5]

[Footnote 5: In campaign or simulated campaign, when an organization is restricted to its prescribed field-train transportation, surplus kits, overcoats, and sweaters are stored on the line of communications or other designated place with the permanent camp equipment of the organization.]

=Section 7. Assembling equipment.=

TO MAKE THE BLANKET ROLL.

Spread the shelter half, triangular part to the right, buttons underneath. Fold triangular part across shelter half, making a rectangle.

Fold blanket through center, parallel to stripes; fold again through center perpendicular to stripes. Lay folded blanket on shelter half, longer side of blanket parallel to and 1 inch from edge of shelter half opposite straps and equidistant from sides. Place tent, pole, folded, close to and parallel to near edge of blanket, end of pole flush with left side of blanket; pins and tent rope to be similarly placed at right side of blanket, occupying about the same space as pole. Arrange the clothing and toilet articles on right and left sides of blanket, leaving center space clear.

Fold the free portions of the right and left sides of shelter half over the blanket. Fold the far edge of the shelter half 6 inches toward the blanket, making a pocket.

With hands and knees roll the blanket and shelter half toward and into the pocket. Buckle straps around roll, strap buckles on line with shelter half buttons.

ROLL THE OVERCOAT AND SLICKER.

Turn the garment inside out, collar extended, and fold once the long way. Roll tightly from the front edge, making roll the full length of garment.

TO PACK THE McCLELLAN SADDLE.

Put saddle pockets on saddle; fasten straps to cincha rings. Place articles pertaining to the man in near pocket, those pertaining to the horse in off pocket.

The overcoat, slicker, or both, to be strapped on pommel, collar to left.

Blanket roll to be strapped on cantle. Feed bag, if empty, neatly folded on top of roll, "U. S." up. If grain is carried, the grain bag is tied inside the feed bag, which is strapped on top of the pommel roll, above the overcoat or slicker.

Lariat, in uniform coils of about 10-inch diameter, fastened to near cantle ring by lariat strap fastened to one ring and passing through the other; coil secured by two outside straps of saddle pocket flap. To prevent flapping and injuring adjacent troopers and horses the picket pin may be inserted through the saddlebag strap ring, point downward, or it may be placed horizontally under the flap straps of the near saddlebag, point to the rear.

Canteen snapped into off cantle ring, canteen strap passing through handle of cup, except the cup model 1910, which is fitted over the bottom of the canteen, model 1910, inside the cover.

Rifle on near side; saber on off side, attached to pommel ring.

The surcingle is buckled over the saddle. The two extra fitted horseshoes, one front and one hind, may be wired, one on bottom of each stirrup, or they may be fastened together with a nail and carried in off saddle pocket. To prevent rust the horseshoe nails should always be well oiled and wrapped in canvas or leather. They are carried in the off saddle pocket.

The two reserve rations, extra ammunition, and other extra articles should be so distributed between the two pockets as to balance the weight on the horse.