Hungary -- Description and travel

"Magyarland," volume 2 (of 2)

It is the first time we have been asked to show our passport on the arrival at a frontier since leaving England; but we are now in Roumania, and beyond the pale of Western civilisation.

Chapters

1. CHAPTER LIII.

2. CHAPTER XXIX.

It is the first time we have been asked to show our passport on the arrival at a frontier since leaving England; but we are now in Roumania, and beyond the pale of Western civil...

3. CHAPTER XXX.

A frugal supper, consisting of fish from the river and Moldavian cheese--the latter served with a plate of carraways--and, thoroughly tired out from our long day’s excitement an...

4. CHAPTER XXXI.

What a barbarous scene Orsova presents on market-day, and what a jabber there is of many tongues as the people in their varied costumes scream at the top of their voices and cha...

5. CHAPTER XXXII.

The town of Temesvár contains a population of 33,000 souls, and produces a medley that almost outdoes even Pest itself. Here are Greeks, Wallachs, Hebrews, Serbs, Croats, Bulgar...

6. CHAPTER XXXIII.

It is nightfall at Grosswardein and the fires of sunset have faded into cold grey ashes. All along the river Kőrős the stealthy vapours, following its leaden course, are slowly...

7. CHAPTER XXXIV.

A few miles from Grosswardein lies a valley, where, surrounded by undulating tertiary hills, is a mineral spring; and thither, a few days after our arrival, we made an excursion...

8. CHAPTER XXXV.

The terrible catastrophe which overtook Szegedin in the spring of 1879 must still be within the recollection of every English person. No surer destruction fell upon that other g...

9. CHAPTER XXXVI.

What a quaint, funny, mediæval old town Hermannstadt is, with its heavy stone archways and strong oaken doors leading to passages and _inner_ archways far far beyond! Wherever w...

10. CHAPTER XXXVII.

The country in the vicinity of Hermannstadt is very beautiful, and the villages in many of their characteristics wholly unlike those of any other country in the world. A few mil...

11. CHAPTER XXXVIII.

Heigh-ho! Pretty little Wallach girl tripping along so gingerly over the muddy thoroughfares on thy way to the fountain opposite, and stooping to kiss--shall I say it--the dirty...

12. CHAPTER XXXIX.

People never keep time in Transylvania, neither do the clocks. By the one ticking in our room it is just half-past four, whereas our watches, differing somewhat in opinion, poin...

13. CHAPTER XL.

In consequence of its proximity to Turkey, Kronstadt wears an almost Eastern look, while, lying as it does between mountains that separate Transylvania from Wallachia, its posit...

14. CHAPTER XLI.

Kolozsvár, situated in the valley of the Szamos, and surrounded by hills on every side, contains 25,000 inhabitants. Although enclosed on all sides by a Wallach population, that...

15. CHAPTER XLII.

It has been aptly observed that no country in the world presents such a number of paradoxes as Hungary, and this statement is perhaps in no instance more marked than in the term...

16. CHAPTER XLIII.

From earliest dawn a throng of human life has been pouring into the Square outside the hotel, and the ceaseless hum beneath our window of female voices, the quacking of geese, g...

17. CHAPTER XLIV.

Kashau--the winter residence of many of the “Nobles”--is an exceedingly nice little city, and, after Pest, by far the most pleasant in Hungary. The houses are irregular and pict...

18. CHAPTER XLV.

Nothing can be more charming than the town of Tokay from a distance. Lying snugly at the foot of the Hegyalja with its picturesque wooden roofs peeping above the forest of willo...

19. CHAPTER XLVI.

The street is both steep and rugged, so that, leaving our coachman to find some place below where he can deposit the carriage, we walk leisurely up the hill, where women are sit...

20. CHAPTER XLVII.

Returning to the hotel we hire a carriage to take us to the foot of a mountain forming one of the most conspicuous objects in the neighbourhood of this interesting town, and upo...

21. CHAPTER XLVIII.

It is Fair-day in the Hungarian capital, and the hotels are as full as they can cram. There is not an inch of space left anywhere. The restaurants, as we pass them, are so choke...

22. CHAPTER XLIX.

Fair-time is by no means the most pleasant at which to visit the capital, and we were right glad to learn one morning soon after our arrival that it was over. Oh, the dust and m...

23. CHAPTER L.

Of all the pleasure resorts in the neighbourhood of Pest, none is so great a favourite as the Kaiserbad, on account of its mineral springs, which are recommended as a cure for a...

24. CHAPTER LI.

As we crossed the suspension bridge for the last time on our way from Pest on the morning of our departure, the sun had risen, but the shadows still lingered beneath the white c...

25. CHAPTER LII.

Evening has come, and the still, smooth waters of the Save, reflecting the sky, are like an upturned shield of gold. Not a ripple laves the shore. The black ibis and crested gre...

26. CHAPTER LIII.

Hark to the measured tramp of feet as the Slavonian peasants whirl and twirl in the intricate mazes of the _kolo_, the national dance of the Slávs! Bright eyes flash beneath hea...