Hungary -- Description and travel

"Magyarland," volume 1 (of 2)

PAGE A YOUNG HUNGARIAN NOBLE viii VIEW ON THE GULF OF VENICE 16 SLOVENE GIRL 17 SHEPHERD AND SHEEP ON THE PLAINS 26 BRIGANDS 29 OLD HUNGARIAN PEASANT 30 PEASANTS IN COUNTRY CART 32 GOING TO CHURCH 34 “LITTLE NELL” 41 “CARRIAGES MEET THE TRAINS!” 43 TRAVELLERS BIVOUACKING FOR T...

Chapters

1. CHAPTER XXVIII.

PAGE A YOUNG HUNGARIAN NOBLE viii VIEW ON THE GULF OF VENICE 16 SLOVENE GIRL 17 SHEPHERD AND SHEEP ON THE PLAINS 26 BRIGANDS 29 OLD HUNGARIAN PEASANT 30 PEASANTS IN COUNTRY CART...

2. CHAPTER I.

The sun has sunk to rest in the warm bosom of the plains, and the porphyry hills of Buda stand out blue against the sky. In the long green avenue of robinias which line the quay...

3. CHAPTER II.

“Is there anything to be seen here?” we inquired of a pretty Slovene girl, who, in short red skirt, velvet bodice, and top-boots, was stumping about the platform as we alighted...

4. CHAPTER III.

The day had dawned with a glorious awakening. How bright and fair all was under its glistening veil of sparkling dewdrops, as we sat by the open door of the _fogado_ and partook...

5. CHAPTER IV.

“Magyars! Magyars!” I once heard a lady exclaim, who was not quite so well up in the science of ethnology as she might have been in these enlightened days, and who evidently con...

6. CHAPTER V.

In a country where so many nationalities exist it is not easy to travel without some one who can speak at least three or four languages unfamiliar to civilised ears; and as we p...

7. CHAPTER VI.

The ordinary travelling conveyance of Hungary is the _leiterwagen_ or _szekér_, a long skeleton cart, with sides like ladders, already described, which, from the convenient habi...

8. CHAPTER VII.

The aspect of the Alfőld varies considerably according to the nature of the soil. In some places it is boggy; in others sandy and incapable of cultivation; in others again it is...

9. CHAPTER VIII.

Is there anything in all this sinful world so irritating, uncomfortable, and sleep-preventing as a Hungarian bed? Not only is it so short, that, unless the would-be sleeper happ...

10. CHAPTER IX.

It is a sultry evening, and there is a stillness in the air that forebodes a storm. The leaves of the robinias hang down languidly against their stems, and clouds which have rap...

11. CHAPTER X.

How astonished would the traveller be, how utterly flabbergasted and dumbfounded, were he set down suddenly at Pest without having been previously informed of his whereabouts! H...

12. CHAPTER XI.

Pest is a costly place to sojourn at, and our money absolutely flew, a _gulden_[1] scarcely going farther than a _franc_ in Paris, or a _lire_ in any part of Italy. No wonder is...

13. CHAPTER XII.

From the south-east corner of Hungary, where they form the boundary between it and Roumania, and stretching upwards in one unbroken chain to the provinces of Bukovina and Gallic...

14. CHAPTER XIII.

At the foot of the Tátra, and also in the county of Gőmőr, hidden deep in the lovely valley of Stracena, is a little brook from which the valley takes its name, “Stracena” being...

15. CHAPTER XIV.

It was on the second day after the events narrated in the preceding chapter that, leaving Dobsina, to which place we were obliged to return to pick up our luggage, we started on...

16. CHAPTER XV.

Rattling, rumbling, jolting, bumping, and sometimes heeling over at an angle of 45° as we tear through the streets of Poprád, with what a magnificent spectacle of blue mountain...

17. CHAPTER XVI.

“You will have a glorious day to-morrow for your climb to the Fünf-Seen” (Five-lakes), exclaimed the Doctor. “Look! the Königsberg is quite clear,” pointing to a prominent mount...

18. CHAPTER XVII.

Tátra-Fűred, lying as it does both between and immediately under two of the loftiest summits of the whole chain, namely the Lomnitz and the Gerlsdorf, the most delightful mounta...

19. CHAPTER XVIII.

An ordinary Hungarian coachman has little notion of time beyond that which has reference to the movements of the sun. The sun rises, and behold it is morning. It sets, and, lo!...

20. CHAPTER XIX.

In these northern localities persons are not only given to be a trifle vague in their measurement of time, but are also extremely patriarchal in their manner of computing distan...

21. CHAPTER XX.

It is high festival at Neumarkt, and men, women, and little children, emerging from arched doorways, rosary and prayer-book in hand, are hurrying to church. In the green enclosu...

22. CHAPTER XXI.

The morning broke just as such mornings should, but so seldom do; the dark and sombre mountains, rearing their perpendicular walls of granite high into the zenith, stood out blu...

23. CHAPTER XXII.

Starting for the former at 9 A.M., we are accompanied not only by a guide, but by the Herr Graf himself, who still wears his William Tell costume and looks meekly ferocious with...

24. CHAPTER XXIII.

A year has passed since we stayed at Tátra-Fűred and Zakopane and made our journey across the plains. Since then we have been to England, and planted our _krummholz_ and Carpath...

25. CHAPTER XXIV.

Alighting on its outskirts, we send our carriage on with the luggage to the inn, and walk through the village; in doing which we are greeted with many a nod and smile of welcome...

26. CHAPTER XXV.

We reached Kesmark in time for the evening service at the Lutheran church; the curious old building, with its grotesquely painted roof and walls, taking us back to mediæval time...

27. CHAPTER XXVI.

Far away from Hungary, in the Black Forest, and in that region which once formed part of the great Hercynian woods of the ancients, which in Cæsar’s time stretched to the boundl...

28. CHAPTER XXVII.

On looking over the steamer’s side, we see a youthful Jeanette and Jeanot in the agonies of parting. It was a sight both comic and pathetic: the grief of the former--a girl of s...

29. CHAPTER XXVIII.

Having great things before us to-day, we once more shake off dull sloth and early rise. During the night we had passed not only Belgrade and Semendria, but an ancient Turkish fo...