Madrid: an historical description and handbook of the Spanish capital
Part 1
THE SPANISH SERIES
MADRID
THE SPANISH SERIES
_Edited by ALBERT F. CALVERT_
GOYA TOLEDO MADRID SEVILLE MURILLO CORDOVA EL GRECO VELAZQUEZ CERVANTES THE PRADO THE ESCORIAL ROYAL PALACES OF SPAIN SPANISH ARMS AND ARMOUR GRANADA AND THE ALHAMBRA LEON, BURGOS, AND SALAMANCA VALLADOLID, OVIEDO, SEGOVIA, ZAMORA, AVILA, AND ZARAGOZA
_In preparation_
GALICIA SCULPTURE IN SPAIN CITIES OF ANDALUCIA MURCIA AND VALENCIA TAPESTRIES OF THE ROYAL PALACE CATALONIA AND BALEARIC ISLANDS SANTANDER, VIZCAYA, AND NAVARRE
MADRID AN HISTORICAL DESCRIPTION AND HANDBOOK OF THE SPANISH CAPITAL, BY ALBERT F. CALVERT, WITH 453 ILLUSTRATIONS
LONDON: JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD NEW YORK: JOHN LANE COMPANY MCMIX
TURNBULL AND SPEARS, PRINTERS, EDINBURGH.
PREFACE
Madrid is but a nursling among the cities of Spain. Marius Fulvius laid siege to Toledo nearly two centuries before the birth of Christ, and it is not until a thousand years later that we find the first historical mention of Madrid. London, under the title of Augusta, was one of the most important towns of Britain more than five hundred years before Don Ramiro II. of Leon razed Majerit, as it was then called, in 939. This is the first authoritative reference we have to Madrid. In 1540, Charles V. abandoned the time-honoured capitals of Valladolid, Seville, Zaragoza, and Toledo, to nurse his gout in the brisk, rarefied air of Madrid. In 1560 the city was declared “the only Court” by Philip II., and styled “Imperial y Coronada, muy noble y muy leal”; Ferdinand VII., in 1814, added the words “y muy heroica.”
Despite the flattering and dignified official epithets that have been bestowed upon it, Madrid possesses many natural features which militate against its popularity as a residential centre; but, despite its isolated and elevated position and the treacherousness of its climate, the city has not deserved the strictures that have been passed upon it by captious and prejudiced critics. For Madrid is a city of broad thoroughfares, magnificent public buildings, and handsome houses; and, since it has been rescued from its geographical remoteness by being made the centre of the Spanish railway system, it has become one of the most accessible and prosperous capitals of Europe.
In devoting a volume to an historical and descriptive account of Madrid, I am not only fulfilling a duty which could not be neglected in any serious attempt to make this Spanish Series useful and comprehensive, but I am also inspired with a hope of being able to dissipate many of the erroneous and defamatory impressions that are current with regard to the Spanish capital. I have approached the task from the standpoint of a resident writing for visitors to the city, and if my notes are biassed in favour of my subject, I can only say that I have a sincere liking and admiration for the city, and I have spoken of its people as I have found them. The Spanish metropolis is modern; it is imbued with the principles of modern progress; and while one never ceases to rejoice in the unfaltering, unchanging adherence to an immemorial past, characteristic of Toledo, one may feel an interest, equally keen and appreciative, in the spirit of new Spain which is to be found in Madrid.
Not the least pleasant part of an author’s privilege in penning a preface is the opportunity it affords him of acknowledging the assistance and courtesy he has received in the accomplishment of his task. To Mr W. Gallichan my thanks are due for assistance received in the compilation, and I am also grateful to Señor Don J. Lacoste and Messrs Hauser y Menet for their kindness in permitting me to reproduce many of the illustrations that adorn this little book.
A. F. C.
CONTENTS
PAGE
I. GENERAL IMPRESSIONS OF MADRID 1
II. HISTORY OF THE CITY 18
III. THE COURT AND SOCIETY IN MADRID 32
IV. ART IN MADRID 47
V. LITERATURE AND THE DRAMA 60
VI. CHURCHES AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS 72
VII. ALCALÁ DE HENARES 128
VIII. THE BULL-FIGHT 136
IX. THE ART OF THE BULL-FIGHTER 145
X. CAFÉ LIFE OF THE MADRILEÑOS 166
ILLUSTRATIONS
TITLE PLATE
Plan of Madrid 1
Arms of Madrid 2
General view of Madrid 3
View of Madrid from the Teja 4
General view of Madrid 5
View of Madrid from San Isidro 6
The Fountain of Cybele and Calle de Alcalá 7
The Northern Railway Station and Royal Palace 8
Puerta del Sol 9
Puerta del Sol 10
Calle de Alcalá 11
Calle de Alcalá 12
Calle de Alcalá 13
Calle de Alcalá 14
Carrera de San Jerónimo 15
Calle de Alcalá 16
Calle de Sevilla 17
Calle de Alcalá 18
Plaza de Castelar 19
Calle de Toledo 20
In old Madrid 21
Paseo de Recoletos 22
Paseo de Recoletos 23
Paseo de Recoletos 24
Paseo de Recoletos 25
Calle de Alcalá and Statue of Aguirre 26
Paseo de la Castellana 27
Plaza de Isabel II. 28
Plaza de Oriente 29
Plaza Mayor 30
Plaza Mayor 31
Plaza Mayor and Statue of Philip III. 32
Calle de Serrano 33
Calle de la Princesa on Good Friday 34
Entrance to the Park of Alfonso XIII. 35
Casa de Campo. The Lake 36
Toledo Bridge 37
Toledo Bridge 38
Toledo Bridge 39
Segovia Bridge 40
Entrance to the Retiro 41
Entrance to the Retiro 42
Principal Entrance to the Retiro 43
Retiro. The Parterre 44
Retiro. The Lake 45
Retiro. The Crystal Palace 46
Retiro. Arab Pavilion 47
Retiro. Arab Temple 48
Gate of Alcalá 49
Gate of Hierro 50
Gate of Toledo 51
Chamber of Deputies 52
The Cortes. Two bronze lions in front of the Palace 53
Interior of the Chamber of Deputies 54
Interior of the Chamber of Deputies 55
Reception Room at the Chamber of Deputies. Decorated by Don A. Mélida 56
Reception Room at the Chamber of Deputies. Decorated by Don A. Mélida 57
Façade of the Hospital. Calle Fuencarral 58
La Latina 59
Portal of the Hospital of the Conception or “La Latina” in the Calle de Toledo 60
Staircase of La Latina 61
Portal and Staircase of the Hospital de la Latina 62
Arabian Palace of the Prado 63
Arabian Palace of the Prado 64
Lujanes Tower 65
The Aguirre School 66
The Spanish Theatre 67
The Royal Theatre 68
The Treasury Office in the Calle de Alcalá 69
Palace of the Marqués de Portugalete 70
Palace of the Marqués de Linares 71
The Bank of Spain 72
The War Office 73
Southern façade of the Museum and the Statue of Murillo 74
The Prado Gallery. North façade 75
The Prado Gallery 76
The New Exchange 77
The Town Hall 78
The Northern Railway Station 79
Círculo de Contribuyentes 80
The Senate House 81
Hispano-American Bank 82
The Spanish Academy 83
The Atocha Station 84
National Library 85
The National Library and Museum 86
National Library. Detail of the façade 87
National Library and Museum. East façade 88
National Library. Sphinx 89
The Equitable Buildings in the Calle de Alcalá 90
Statue of María Cristina and Museum of Reproductions 91
Interior of the New Exchange 92
The Home Office 93
Astronomical Observatory 94
The Exchange 95
The War Office 96
The Town Hall 97
Ministerio de Fomento 98
Hermitage of San Isidro 99
Refuge of Our Lady of Mercy 100
Church of San Francisco el Grande 101
San Francisco el Grande. General view from the Choir 102
San Francisco el Grande. The Concession of the Jubilee of the Porciúncula 103
San Francisco el Grande. Left side of the Cupola 104
Crypt in the Almudena Cathedral 105
The Cathedral. Partial view of the Crypt 106
Church of Las Calatravas 107
Las Calatravas 108
Church of El Buen Suceso 109
General view of the Church El Buen Suceso 110
Church of San José 111
Church of San Isidro el Real 112
Interior of the Church of San Isidro 113
Church of La Virgen del Puerto 114
Church of Las Salesas. The Suffering Christ 115
Church of San Cayetano 116
Altar-piece in the Bishop’s Chapel 117
Door in the Bishop’s Chapel 118
The Bishop’s Chapel. Left side of the door 119
The Bishop’s Chapel. Right side of the door 120
The Bishop’s Chapel. Upper part of the door 121
The Bishop’s Chapel. Sepulchre of the Bishop of Plasencia 122
The Bishop’s Chapel. Sepulchre of Don Francesco de Vargas 123
The Bishop’s Chapel. Sepulchre of Doña Inés de Carvajal 124
Parish Church of St Andrew. Sepulchre of San Isidro, Patron Saint of Madrid 125
Interior of the Church of San Jerónimo. From a picture in the Prado of the Prince of the Asturias (Ferdinand VII.) taking the Oath of Allegiance in 1789 126
View of the interior of the Church of San Jerónimo 127
San Antonio de la Florida 128
Church of San Antonio de la Florida 129
Interior of the Church of San Antonio de la Florida 130
Fresco in San Antonio de la Florida, by Goya 131
Fresco in San Antonio de la Florida, by Goya 132
Fresco in San Antonio de la Florida, by Goya 133
Fresco in San Antonio de la Florida, by Goya 134
Group of Angels in San Antonio de la Florida, by Goya 135
Group of Angels in San Antonio de la Florida, by Goya 136
Interior of the Church of San Antonio de la Florida 137
San Antonio de la Florida. Painting in the principal Chapel, by Goya 138
San Antonio de la Florida. Paintings on the centres of the intrados of the Choir and principal Chapel Arches, by Goya 139
San Antonio de la Florida. Paintings on the springings of the intrados of the principal Chapel Arches, by Goya 140
San Antonio de la Florida. Paintings on the springings of the intrados of the Choir Arches, by Goya 141
San Antonio de la Florida. Paintings on the intrados of the Chapel Arch, left side, by Goya 142
San Antonio de la Florida. Paintings on the intrados of the Chapel Arch, right side, by Goya 143
San Antonio de la Florida. Triangles formed by the Dome adjoining the principal Chapel, by Goya 144
San Antonio de la Florida. Triangles formed by the Dome adjoining the Choir, by Goya 145
San Antonio de la Florida. Paintings at the left sides of the windows of the Dome, by Goya 146
San Antonio de la Florida. Paintings at the right sides of the windows of the Dome, by Goya 147
San Antonio de la Florida. First group on the Cupola to the left of the centre, by Goya 148
San Antonio de la Florida. Second group on the Cupola to the left of the centre, by Goya 149
San Antonio de la Florida. Centre of the composition on the Cupola facing the entrance, by Goya 150
San Antonio de la Florida. First group on the Cupola to the right of the centre, by Goya 151
San Antonio de la Florida. Second group on the Cupola to the right of the centre, by Goya 152
The Prado 153
The Prado 154
The Prado Gallery 155
The Prado. The Velazquez Gallery 156
Madrid Picture Gallery. Lower plan 157
Madrid Picture Gallery. Chief plan 158
Scene in the Life of Santo Domingo de Guzman, by Pedro Berruguete. Prado 159
Ecce Homo, by Luis de Morales. Prado 160
The Baptism of Christ, by Navarrete. Prado 161
Portrait of Don Carlos, son of Philip II., by Alonso Sánchez Coello. Prado 162
The Infantas Isabel Clara Eugenia and Catalina Micaela, daughters of Philip II., by Alonso Sánchez Coello. Prado 163
Jacob receiving the Blessing of his father Isaac, by Ribera. Prado 164
Vision of St Peter the Apostle to St Peter Nolasco, by Zurbaran. Prado 165
Los Borrachos, by Velazquez. Prado 166
The Forge of Vulcan, by Velazquez. Prado 167
The Surrender of Breda, by Velazquez. Prado 168
Philip IV., by Velazquez. Prado 169
Queen Isabel of Bourbon, by Velazquez. Prado 170
Don Baltasar Carlos, by Velazquez. Prado 171
Philip IV. in Hunting Costume, by Velazquez. Prado 172
Don Baltasar Carlos in Hunting Costume, by Velazquez. Prado 173
Duke of Olivares, by Velazquez. Prado 174
Æsop, by Velazquez. Prado 175
St Antony Abbot visiting St Paul, by Velazquez. Prado 176
Las Hilanderas, by Velazquez. Prado 177
Las Meninas, by Velazquez. Prado 178
Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, by Murillo. Prado 179
El Tiñoso: St Elizabeth of Hungary tending the sick in her Hospital, by Murillo. Prado 180
Father Cabanillas, by Murillo. Prado 181
The Child Jesus as Shepherd, by Murillo. Prado 182
Detail of Plate 179, by Murillo. Prado 183
The Vision of St Bernard, by Murillo. Prado 184
The Virgin of the Rosary, by Murillo. Prado 185
The Child St John, by Murillo. Prado 186
The Children, Jesus and St John, known by the name of “Los Niños de la Concha,” by Murillo. Prado 187
The Holy Family and the Bird, by Murillo. Prado 188
Head of the Holy Shepherd (fragment), by Murillo Prado 189
La Porciúncula (the Vision of St Francis), by Murillo. Prado 190
The Martyrdom of St Andrew the Apostle at Patras, by Murillo. Prado 191
The Dream of the Roman Senator and his wife, which produced the Church of St Maria Maggiore at Rome, by Murillo 192
The Roman Senator and his wife telling their dream to Pope Liberius, by Murillo 193
The Annunciation, by El Greco. Prado 194
The Holy Family, by El Greco. Prado 195
The Crucifixion, by El Greco. Prado 196
The dead Christ in the arms of God the Father, by El Greco. Prado 197
Charles IV., by Goya. Prado 198
Queen Maria Luisa, by Goya. Prado 199
The nude Maja, by Goya. Prado 200
The draped Maja, by Goya. Prado 201
The Family of Charles IV., by Goya. Prado 202
Goya at the age of 80, by V. López. Prado 203
Jesus and Mary Magdalene, by Correggio. Prado 204
The Holy Family and the Lamb, by Rafael. Prado 205
A Cardinal, by Rafael. Prado 206
Madonna and Child, with St Bridget and St Hulpus, by Titian. Prado 207
The Crown of Thorns, by Domingo Tiepolo. Prado 208
Portrait of Albrecht Dürer, by himself. Prado 209
Queen Artemisia, by Rembrandt. Prado 210
Village Fête, by Teniers. Prado 211
Gallery of the Archduke Leopold in Brussels, by Teniers. Prado 212
The Three Graces, by Rubens. Prado 213
The Holy Family, by Rubens. Prado 214
Van Dyck and Count Bristol, by Van Dyck. Prado 215
The Last Supper, by Juan de Juanes. Prado 216
The Catholic Sovereigns adoring the Virgin, by Juan de Borgoña. Prado 217
A Gothic King, by Alonso Cano. Prado 218
The Water from the Rock, by Juan de las Roelas, El Clérigo. Prado 219
A Soul in Pain, by Ribalta. Prado 220
Portrait of Philip II., by Pantoja de la Cruz. Prado 221
Portrait of Pedro Berruguete. 15th century. Collection of Don José de Lázaro Galdeano 222