Chapter 2

Chop sufficient cold boiled mutton to make a pint. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter and one onion sliced into a saucepan; stir until the onion is slightly brown; then add a half pint of stock or milk and four tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs. Stand this on the back of the stove for about five minutes while you blanch and chop fine a dozen almonds. Add these to the meat, then add a teaspoonful of curry powder, and a teaspoonful of salt. Beat three eggs until light, stir them into the meat, then turn the whole into the saucepan. Rub the bottom of the baking dish first with a clove of garlic, then sprinkle over a tablespoonful of lemon juice and put here and there a few bits of butter; put on this the mixture, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. Serve in the dish in which it is baked, and pass with it plain boiled rice.

Boudins

Chop sufficient cold cooked mutton to make a pint. Put a half cup of stock, two tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs and a tablespoonful of butter over the fire. When hot, take from the fire, add the meat and three eggs well beaten; add a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper. Put the mixture into greased custard cups, stand in a baking pan half filled with boiling water, and cook in a moderate oven fifteen to twenty minutes. Serve with sauce Béchamel. The bottom of the cups may be garnished with chopped mushrooms, capers, or chopped truffles, or dusted thickly with chopped parsley.

Klopps

Chop sufficient cold boiled mutton to make a pint; add to it a half pint of bread crumbs and sufficient white of egg to bind the whole together; add a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of white pepper. Form into balls the size of English walnuts; drop into a kettle of boiling water; pull the kettle to one side of the fire where it cannot possibly boil, and cook the klopps slowly for five or six minutes. When done they will float on the surface. Lift, drain carefully, put on to a heated dish, pour over cream celery or cream oyster sauce, and serve with them peas and boiled rice.

Curry of Mutton

Put two tablespoonfuls of butter and one sliced onion into a pan; cook slowly until the onion is perfectly tender; add one clove of garlic mashed, a teaspoonful of curry powder and a teaspoonful of turmeric; mix thoroughly, add a half pint of stock, or, better, cocoanut milk; stir until boiling, add one quart of cold cooked mutton chopped fine; heat thoroughly, add a tablespoonful of lemon juice, and pour at once into a platter that has been garnished with boiled rice.

Mutton with Anchovy

Chop sufficient cold boiled mutton to make one pint; mash fine three anchovies. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan, add one sliced onion, cook until the onion is soft and yellow, add a clove of garlic mashed, add to this the anchovies and a half pint of stock; simmer gently for fifteen minutes, and press through a sieve. Add a tablespoonful of capers, two or three leaves of mint that have been bruised, and the mutton chopped fine. Heat over boiling water for fifteen minutes, and serve on squares of toasted bread. This may be served plain or the top of each piece may be capped with a carefully poached egg.

Pilau

Cut into bits any pieces of cold cooked mutton; put them into a saucepan, cover with water, add a grated onion, a bay leaf and two or three cardamom seeds. Sprinkle over a half cup of rice that has been carefully washed; cover the kettle and simmer slowly until the rice is tender. Dish the mutton, putting the rice over the top, cover the whole with a nicely made tomato sauce, and send at once to the table.

Mutton Salad

Any pieces of cold-roasted or boiled mutton may be cut into dice and used for an ordinary mutton salad. At serving time arrange this neatly on lettuce leaves, or any accessible green; season with salt and pepper, and cover with mayonnaise dressing to which has been added a tablespoonful of capers.

Where celery, lettuce or other fresh greens cannot be procured, canned asparagus may be mixed with the mutton or may be served with it as a garnish; giving an exceedingly agreeable accompaniment. Where asparagus cannot be obtained, a can of peas may be drained, washed, drained again, and added to the mutton before it is mixed with the mayonnaise dressing, or the mutton may be mixed with mayonnaise and filled into tomatoes that have been peeled and the centers scooped out. Stand each on a little nest of lettuce leaves or on a bunch of cress, and garnish the top with capers.

French Lamb Stew

1 quart of bits of cold left-over lamb or mutton 1 pint of green peas 1 quart of water 3 stalks of mint 1 teaspoonful of onion juice 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper

Put the lamb, water and all the seasoning into a saucepan. Shell and wash the peas, put them over the top, cover the pan and bring quickly to a boil, lift the lid, and boil rapidly twenty minutes until the peas are tender. Rub together the butter and flour, stir them carefully into the stew, bring again to boiling point and serve.

Lamb Stew with Tomatoes

Follow the preceding recipe, using a quart of strained tomatoes in place of a quart of water.

CHICKEN--UNCOOKED

In purchasing a chicken for timbale, select a large one, but not an old fowl. After the chicken has been drawn, remove the white meat, which is used uncooked for timbales. The dark meat may be cooked at once and utilized for boudins, croquettes, salad, cecils, creamed hash, or served on toast with sauce Bordelaise, or used in chafing dish next day. Or if you prefer to use it raw, devil the legs and use the bones for soup.

Timbale

Chop fine the uncooked white meat of a chicken; this should weigh a half pound. Then rub it with the back of a wooden spoon against the side of a bowl until perfectly smooth. Put one cup of white bread crumbs and a half cup of milk over the fire; stir until boiling; when cold, rub this thoroughly with the meat, and press it through an ordinary flour sieve. Stir into it carefully the well-beaten whites of five eggs, add a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of white pepper; fill into greased timbale cups, stand in a baking pan of boiling water, cover with oiled paper, and bake in a moderate oven fifteen to twenty minutes. The bottoms of the cups may be garnished with chopped truffle, chopped mushrooms, chopped parsley, or nicely cooked green peas. Serve with the timbales either a plain cream sauce or a cream mushroom sauce. Peas are the usual accompaniment.

Or the timbale molds may be lined with this mixture, and the centers filled with creamed mushrooms; put enough of the timbale mixture over the top to hold in the stuffing; they will then be cooked and served in the usual manner.

Deviled Chicken Legs

Carefully remove the bones from the legs of an uncooked chicken. To a half cup of bread crumbs add twelve chopped almonds, two tablespoonfuls of toasted piñon nuts, a tablespoonful of parsley, a half teaspoonful of salt and a dash of cayenne; moisten with two tablespoonfuls of butter. Stuff this into the spaces from which you have taken the bones, tie the legs top and bottom to keep in the stuffing. Place the bones from the carcass of the chicken in the soup kettle, cover with cold water, and when the water reaches boiling point place the legs on top of the bones and cook continuously for two hours. They may be served hot with sauce, or cold, cut into thin slices garnished with aspic.

English Chicken Balls

Chop fine the dark meat left over from timbales, add a half can of finely chopped mushrooms, a teaspoonful of salt, a half teaspoonful of pepper, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a dozen blanched and finely chopped almonds and one raw egg; mix thoroughly and form into balls the size of an English walnut. Arrange these over the bottom of a saucepan, cover with stock, add a bay leaf, a slice of onion and of carrot; cook slowly a half to three-quarters of an hour; drain, saving the stock. Dish the balls in the center of a platter, put around the edge a row of potato bullets, outside of that small triangles of toast. Put a tablespoonful of butter and one of flour into a saucepan; mix, add a half pint of stock in which the balls were cooked, stir until boiling, take from the fire, add the yolk of one egg beaten with two tablespoonfuls of cream; add a half teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper; strain this over the balls and serve.

CHICKEN--COOKED

The remains of cold chicken or turkey may be used in precisely the same manner, or made into croquettes, using the same rule as for beef croquettes. With an accompaniment of mayonnaise of celery, or mayonnaise of tomato, they make an extremely good luncheon dish. For an evening entertainment they may be simply garnished with cooked peas. Meat croquettes are usually made into pyramid forms; they may, however, be made into cylinders. Boudins of chicken or turkey are also exceedingly nice.

Creamed Hash on Toast

This is one of the tastiest of all the warmed-over chicken dishes. Chop the chicken fine, and to each pint allow one tablespoonful of butter, one of flour and a half pint of milk. Rub the butter and flour together, add the milk, stir over the fire until boiling, season the meat with a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper, add to the milk sauce, and stir over hot water for fifteen minutes. The flavoring may be changed by adding three or four chopped mushrooms, or, if you have it, a chopped truffle; but it is exceedingly good plain. Heap this on squares of nicely toasted bread, serve at once, or you may garnish the tops with carefully poached eggs.

Casserole

Wash a half cup of rice; throw it into boiling water, boil for twenty minutes, drain, add a half cup of milk, a tablespoonful of butter, a level teaspoonful of salt and a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper; stir until you have a rather smooth thick paste. Brush custard cups, line them to the depth of a half inch with this rice mixture; make a plain milk sauce, as in preceding recipe, and add a pint of seasoned chicken. Fill the space in the rice cups with this cream mixture, put over a covering of rice, stand the cups in a pan of boiling water, and bake in a moderate oven for twenty to twenty-five minutes. Turn these carefully on a heated dish, pour around cream sauce and serve. They may be garnished with green peas, mushrooms or truffles. While this is an exceedingly economical dish it is at the same time an elegant one.

Indian Hash

Chop fine sufficient cold-roasted duck, chicken, or turkey to make one pint. Cut a good-sized onion into very thin slices. Pare, core, and chop fine one apple. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan, add the apple and the onion; toss until brown, then add not more than an eighth of a teaspoonful of powdered mace, a half teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of curry powder, a tablespoonful of flour, a teaspoonful of sugar; mix and add a half pint of stock or water; now add the meat, stir constantly until smoking hot, then stand over hot water, covering closely for twenty minutes. Add two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice and serve in a border of rice.

Mock Terrapin or à la Newburg

Pieces of cold-roasted chicken, turkey or duck may be used for making terrapin or à la Newburg. Cut the meat into pieces of fairly good size; measure, and to each pint of this allow a half pint of sauce; rub together two tablespoonfuls of butter and one of flour. Rub to a smooth paste the hard boiled yolks of three eggs; add to the butter and flour a gill and a half (three-quarters of a cup) of milk; stir until smoking hot. Do not let the mixture boil; then add this a little at a time to the yolks of the eggs, rubbing until you have a perfectly smooth golden sauce; press this through a sieve. Before beginning the sauce, sprinkle the chicken with four tablespoonfuls of sherry or Madeira, the latter preferable. Add the chicken to the sauce, stir until each piece is thoroughly covered; add a half teaspoonful of salt, just a drop of extract of nutmeg or a grating of nutmeg, an eighth of a spoon of white pepper (black pepper, of course, may be used); cover and stand over hot water, stirring occasionally until the mixture is smoking hot.

Chicken Supréme

This may be made from either chicken or turkey cut into dice; add an equal quantity of canned mushrooms; for instance, to one pint of cold chicken, add one can of mushrooms. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter and two of flour in a saucepan; mix without browning, then add two cups (one pint) of chicken stock; stir constantly until boiling, add two tablespoonfuls of thick cream, and the yolks of four eggs; strain, add the chicken and mushrooms, a level teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a teaspoonful of white pepper, ten drops of celery extract or just a little celery seed. Stand this mixture over hot water, watching carefully until it is thoroughly heated; remember that any boiling will curdle the egg. Serve this on a heated dish either in a border of rice or garnished with squares of toasted bread. This mixture is also served in bread patês, or it may be served in chicken muffin cases.

Chicken Cutlets

Chop cold cooked chicken or turkey very fine; to each pint allow a half can of mushrooms chopped fine. Put one tablespoonful of butter and two of flour into a saucepan, mix, and add a half pint of chicken stock. When smooth and thick take from the fire, add the yolks of two eggs, the chicken and mushrooms, a teaspoonful of salt, quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, a teaspoonful of onion juice, a grating of nutmeg and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley; stir over the fire for a moment; turn out to cool; when cold form into cutlet-shaped croquettes, dip in egg and bread crumbs, and fry in smoking hot fat. These may be served plain, with a garnish of peas, or they may be served with sauce Béchamel.

Duck Bordelaise

Portions of cold duck may be cut into convenient pieces, sprinkled with wine, about four tablespoonfuls to the pint, and allowed to stand while you make sauce Bordelaise. Put one tablespoonful of butter and one of flour into a saucepan; mix, add a teaspoonful of browning or kitchen bouquet and a half pint of stock; stir until boiling, add a tablespoonful of grated onion, a half teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper and, if you have it, a tablespoonful of finely-chopped ham; cook for five minutes and strain; add three or four fresh mushrooms or a half dozen canned mushrooms and the duck. Stand over boiling water until the mixture is thoroughly heated. Send to the table garnished with triangles of toasted bread. A few stoned olives or sliced olives may be added in the place of the mushrooms, and you would then have salmi of duck.

GAME

Bits of cold broiled or roasted game may be chopped very fine, rubbed to a smooth paste either in a bowl or mortar. To each half pint of this mixture allow two tablespoonfuls of brown sauce thoroughly rubbed with the game, and the unbeaten white of one egg; press the whole mixture through an ordinary flour sieve; then stir in the well-beaten whites of two eggs, four mushrooms chopped almost to a powder, and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Fill this into little greased molds or cups; the cups may be garnished with chopped truffle or mushrooms, or served plain. Fill in the mixture, stand the cups in a baking pan half filled with boiling water; cook in a moderate oven twenty minutes. The little bomb-shaped molds are the better sort to use for these. Serve with brown sauce either plain or flavored with mushrooms.

BREAD

The better way is to cut just sufficient bread for each meal so that there will be really no left-overs. If, however, a few slices are accidentally left, put them aside in a can or jar, never in the regular bread box with the bread; one or two slices will invariably be missed until sufficiently old to mold and contaminate the remaining quantity of bread in the box, and then, too, they are more apt to accumulate in this way than in a separate box. The neater pieces may be used for toast for breakfast or lunch or supper. The next best pieces use for bread and butter custard; the crusts dry, roll and put aside to be ready for breading articles to be fried, or for escalloped dishes. In this way every piece, no matter what its condition, will be utilized.

Bread and Butter Custard

Beat two eggs, without separating, until light, add four tablespoonfuls of sugar and a pint of milk, mix and add a grating of nutmeg; turn into an ordinary baking dish, cover the top with buttered bread, butter side up; bake in a moderate oven just as you would a cup custard, until you can put a spoon handle down in the center of the custard and it will come out free from milk.

Little Puddings à la Grand Belle

Roll slices of stale bread into fine crumbs. Brush small custard cups, or a border mold with melted butter, sprinkle over a few currants or raisins, or any fruit that you may have left over. Fill the cups with crumbs. Beat three eggs, without separating, until light; add three tablespoonfuls of sugar, a teaspoonful of vanilla and a pint of milk. Pour this carefully over the bread crumbs, let them stand for about five minutes until the mixture has been soaked up and the bread crumbs soft; then stand in a pan of boiling water, cover with oiled paper and cook in the oven a half hour. Turn out and serve hot with egg sauce.

Bread Croquettes

Rub sufficient stale bread to make one quart of crumbs; add four tablespoonfuls of sugar, a half cup of cleaned currants, or any fruit that you have left over, and a grating of nutmeg; sprinkle over a teaspoonful of vanilla, and add sufficient beaten eggs (about three) to moisten the crumbs. Form into small cylinder-shaped croquettes, dip in egg and roll in bread crumbs and fry in smoking hot fat. Serve hot with sugar sauce.

Bread Muffins

Cover a quart of bits of bread that have been broken apart, with one pint of milk; soak for fifteen minutes, then with a spoon beat until you have a smooth paste; add the yolks of three eggs, a tablespoonful of melted butter and one cup of flour that has been sifted with a heaping teaspoonful of baking powder. Fold in carefully the well-beaten whites of the eggs, and bake in muffin pans in a quick oven about twenty minutes.

Muffins left from breakfast may be pulled apart and toasted for lunch or supper. Pieces of stale sponge cake, in fact, any stale cake may be used for cabinet puddings, for cream puddings, or for croquettes.

EGGS

The soft boiled eggs that are left from breakfast will be at once hard boiled, put into the refrigerator, and when four have accumulated, use them for Beauregard eggs, à la Newburg dishes or garnishes. Poached eggs that are left over may be dropped at once into boiling water, cooked slowly until perfectly hard, and put aside for chopping, to use as a garnish for a curry or some vegetable dish with which they will nicely blend.

The tablespoonful or two of stewed tomatoes left in the dish from dinner will be put aside to use for tomato omelet, or they may be added to the roasted beef gravy for dinner, converting a plain homely gravy into one of better flavor. The half cup of peas may be added to to-morrow's consommé, or used as a garnish for the breakfast omelet. The green portions of celery will be put aside for stewing; the tender white part for serving raw; while the leaves and roots will be used for flavoring soups and sauces.

The yolk of egg left over, if put into a cup or saucer will, in less than two hours, become hard, dry and useless. This same yolk dropped into a cup half filled with cold water will keep for several days, and may be used for mayonnaise or added to a sauce. When needed, it may be carefully lifted with a spoon and used the same as a fresh yolk.

Whites of Eggs

The yolks of eggs are quite easily disposed of, as sauces frequently call for the yolk of one or two eggs; then they may be used for mayonnaise dressing, or added to various dishes. The whites of eggs, however, accumulate. One of the ways of getting hard-boiled yolks, without wasting the whites, is to separate the white and the yolk before the egg is cooked; drop the yolk down into a kettle of boiling water; then stand on the back part of the stove for fifteen or twenty minutes until it is hard. The yolk will cook in this way just as well as with the white in the shell. Now, you have the uncooked whites, which may be used for a simple white cake, apple float, soufflés, plain or with fruit.

Beauregard Eggs

Separate the whites and yolks of five hard-boiled eggs, press through an ordinary fruit press, or chop very fine. Make a half pint of cream sauce; when boiling, add the whites of the eggs. Have ready on a heated platter five squares of toasted bread; heap the white sauce over these squares, dust the top with the yolks of the eggs, then with a little salt and pepper, and send at once to the table.

Egg Croquettes

Put five hard-boiled eggs through a vegetable press, or chopper. Put one tablespoonful of butter and two of flour into a saucepan, add a half pint of milk, stir until boiling, add a half cup of stale, unbrowned bread crumbs, a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a dash of pepper and a half teaspoonful of onion juice; add the eggs, mix and turn out to cool. When cold form into cutlets, dip in egg and then in bread crumbs and fry in smoking hot fat. Serve with plain cream sauce. These with peas make an exceedingly nice luncheon dish.

Gold Cake

One frequently has four or five yolks left after having used the whites for some light dish, as mock charlotte. Beat a half cupful of butter to a cream, add gradually one cupful of sugar. When very, very light, add the yolks of the eggs and beat for ten or fifteen minutes; then add one cupful of water, and two and a half cupfuls of flour, sifted with three level teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Beat thoroughly, and bake in a small round or square pan.

German Slaw

This will use the yolks of two eggs and any little sour cream that may be left over. Shred the cabbage and soak it in cold water, changing the water once or twice. When crisp, wring it perfectly dry in a towel. Beat the yolks of two eggs, add a half cupful of sour cream, four tablespoonfuls of vinegar; stir this over the fire until it thickens. Take from the fire, add a half teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper; mix it with the cabbage and turn it into the serving dish. This quantity of dressing will be quite sufficient for about one quart of cabbage.

Apple Snow

In making sauce Hollandaise or mayonnaise one always has quite a quantity of the left-over whites. These may be made into various sponges, or used for fruit snow. Beat the whites of four or five eggs until light, then add two level tablespoonfuls of sifted powdered sugar to the white of each egg and beat until dry and glossy. Grate into this one tart apple, fold it quickly, float it on a little dish of good milk or cream, and send it at once to the table. If you have one or two little stale cakes, or a bit of sponge cake, stale, grate it, dust the top, and if you have just a little jelly, you may dot it here and there with the jelly. This must be made just before the dinner hour, or the apple will lose its color. Grated pear, or two or three peaches pressed through a sieve, or one or two soft bananas may be beaten and used in the place of the apple.

POTATOES

Cold baked potatoes will be converted at once into stuffed potatoes, and put aside for rewarming. Two cold boiled potatoes will make a comfortable dish of hashed browned potatoes, or may be served with cream sauce or au gratin.

Stuffed Potatoes