Part 2

_To Join the Diamond Fillings._

Twist each pair twice and work plainly across; twist each pair twice and lay out the pairs again as on beginning.

_Square Fillings._

Two pairs of bobbins; increase as required according to the size of space to be filled; one pair of bobbins. Take up a sewing, pass the bobbin through, take a second pair of bobbins; * work 12 stitches as shown in diamond fillings. Take up a sewing and pass through as before. Leave the right-hand pair until the next lerd work is done; repeat from * with the next two pairs.

* * * * *

No. 23.—_Rose, Shamrock, and Thistle._

This group is of modern Honiton design, and is worked in whole stitch, half stitch, raised work, square, stem work, fillings, in short, combines all Honiton lace stitches.

No. 24.—_Beading or Chain._

Beading is chiefly used as a band or finish for lace. It is placed round the neck of collars, and serves as a band by which they are tacked to the chemisette or to the dress itself. It is used as insertion for ribbon velvet to thread over and under in cheap made-up sets of Honiton lace.

Use 8 or 10 pairs of bobbins, according to the size of the cotton employed.

Divide the pairs of bobbins *, and lay one-half quite away for the sake of clearness. These bobbins will be called No. 2, and those about to be used No. 1. Work across with No. 1 and back in the usual way until 2 pins are set up, as in stem-work, lay No. 1 bobbins aside.

Take up No. 2, and work backwards and forwards as before until 2 pins are set up on No. 2’s side. Then work across twice as in plain braiding, so as to connect the two sets of bobbins; repeat from *.

* * * * *

No. 25.—_Trefoil Pattern._

This simple pattern is so easy that beginners readily master it in one lesson. It is whole stitch alone without a pearl edge.

No. 26.—_Fern Pattern._

Work up the stem with plain stem work, turn the pillow round, work down again leaf by leaf with pins and sewings, plait up to the point of the leaf, taking up sewings, throw and tie and come back as before, each raised sewing to be worked in this way throughout the whole leaf.

Leaves of any tree or plant may be copied in Honiton lace, by taking a careful outline, marking the sewings, &c., working the shadowed portion of the leaf in whole stitch, the lighter in half, and the veinings in raised work.

_Making up the Sprigs._

Honiton lace is made up or joined in three different ways—by purling, by _réseau_ ground, and by application on net. For all these modes a paper shape is cut and the sprigs are arranged with great care right side downwards. The purling is _sewn_, as we have already stated, on inferior Honiton lace; in all superior pieces it is joined on the pillow. _Réseau_ ground is in imitation of Brussels net worked by hand, as shown in No. 27. It is worked stitch by stitch.

* * * * *

No. 27.—_Lappet in Honiton._

This lappet is an illustration of the mode of making up the sprigs. The one-rose sprigs are first tacked on blue paper of the exact shape required, the butterfly is placed in position, the fern sprig added, and the little stem work sprig shown above and at the side of the butterfly. The whole is then joined and filled in by a _réseau_ ground in Brussels lace stitch.

No. 28.—_Honiton Guipure Lace._

No. 28 shows a beautiful specimen of Honiton guipure lace, designed and worked by Mrs. Treadwin, of Exeter, who has done more to win a taste for artistic, natural forms than any other English lace designer. The lace exhibited by Mrs. Treadwin in 1862 fully sustained the reputation of Honiton lace, and bore comparison with the most beautiful productions of France and Belgium.

The specimen of guipure lace No. 28 is composed of various sprigs of natural flowers and leaves joined on the pillow with purling. Common Honiton guipure is joined with purling worked by the yard and sewn on, instead of being worked in on the pillow, as in this specimen.

_No. 29.—Honiton Appliqué._

_Appliqué_ is the term given to this mode of joining Honiton sprigs. The ground is composed of Brussels net laid over the pattern prepared as above stated. Every outline of the lace is carefully sewn to the Brussels net; the net is afterwards cut away as shown in illustration No. 29.

It is advisable that ladies should receive one or two lessons in lace-making of Mrs. Mitchell, who is a quick and clever teacher, and whose charges are extremely moderate. Some ladies very soon master every class of lace work, but a lesson will frequently prevent much loss of time and patience.

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MESDAMES LE BOUTILLIER,

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This establishment is perhaps the only one in London where ladies may rely upon obtaining _les plus hautes nouveautés_ in every kind of Needlework, and meeting with as prompt attention by correspondence as by a personal visit.

LESSONS GIVEN

On the following essential Branches of Needlework:—

LACE MAKING IN EVERY STYLE.

POINT LACE. CLUNY LACE. BRÉTON WORK. BORDERIE AU PASSÉ. CROCHET. KNITTING.

And every other kind of Needlework.

PILLOWS FOR HONITON OR PILLOW LACE,

5s., 7s. 6d., 10s. 6d. each.

PATTERNS OF FLOWERINGS

Specially designed and prepared for working.

As the SILKWORM says—“The house of Mesdames Le Boutillier is full of delightful objects for the work-table, and for the easy decorations of drawing-room and boudoir.”—_Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine._

MRS. SAMUEL JAY,

LADIES’ OUTFITTER,

259, REGENT CIRCUS, OXFORD ST., 259.

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These graceful Morning Dresses are composed of finest Print, elegantly trimmed with contrasting Colours, beautifully made in the latest style. Price 13s. 6d. each Dress.

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“Although the _spécialité_ of this house is _first-class_ underclothing, Mrs. Jay keeps a nice assortment of plain goods, all hand-sewn, made of the best materials, in good style, but untrimmed, or very plainly trimmed. Ladies may confidently order their sets of under-linen, feeling sure that the needlework could not be neater or stronger even if made at home under their immediate care and supervision.”

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MRS. MITCHELL,

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_s._ _d._

Lessons, each 5 0 Pillow 5 6 Bobbins (filled) per dozen 2 0 Bobbins, per dozen 1 0 Thread, per skein 2d. and 0 3 Turns 10 6

Pillows and Materials for Working, entirely fitted, with Instructions and Patterns, 10s. 6d.; sent to any part.

All kinds of Lace Cleaned, Transferred, and Repaired.

_Virgin Cork sold by the London & Lisbon Cork-wood Co (Limited) 28 Upper Thames St London_

LONDON & LISBON CORK COMPANY, 28, UPPER THAMES ST., LONDON.

It is easily fastened with nails or wire to Framework or Boxes, and, if desired, can be varnished with oak varnish; small pieces, to cover crevices or for little ornaments, can be secured with sticks of gutta-percha, melted in the flame of a candle or gas.

It can be made into rustic Picture Frames for Hunting Scenes, &c.

CRYSTAL PALACE.—A “Grotto,” with Ferns, a “Swiss Scene,” and a “Picture Frame” can be seen in the South Transept of the Crystal Palace, adjoining the Industrial Court.

From the “Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine.”

“The Virgin Cork supplied by the London and Lisbon Cork-wood Company is taken from the Company’s forests in Portugal, and is a delightful substitute for the old tree-roots and logs of wood ordinarily used in making a fernery. It presents exactly the appearance required, as it looks like moss-grown wood; it is light, and easily carried by ladies, as easily held in position by a nail; it is porous, and not only absorbs, but retains moisture—a quality invaluable to fern-growers.”

From the “Floral World and Garden Guide.”

“It is sold by the Company at a remarkably cheap rate, and is unsurpassed for forming an inside lining to summer-houses and grottoes; indeed, for this purpose it is impossible to say too much in its praise. It is light, clean, and durable; indeed, the common bark used for this purpose bears no comparison with it.”

From the “Villa Gardener.”

“For balconies, where lightness of material is always a desideratum, this Cork is invaluable, and it can be had in designs as varied as can be conceived. We can have it manufactured into bridges, flower-stands, rustic houses in glass, brackets for standing plants upon and for window-boxes.”

From the “Best of Everything.”

“There are few prettier ornaments for a sitting-room than stands made from the first bark stripped from the Cork tree. This has been recently introduced into this country for garden purposes, for which it has proved to be admirably adapted, more particularly for growing ferns, orchids, and other plants of a similar nature. In appearance it resembles moss-grown wood, and no doubt will supersede those stands in imitation of bark made of terra-cotta now so much used for fern-cases, flower-stands, &c.”

LONDON AND LISBON CORK COMPANY, 28, UPPER THAMES STREET, LONDON.