Los gringos; or, An inside view of Mexico and California

PAGE We sail from Boston, and how we felt.--Cure for Sea-Sickness.--Delights of the Ocean.--Crossing the Equator.--What the Mess was composed of.--We become reconciled to our Fa...

Gloria Hill.--Il Cateto.--Architecture.--Visit from a Scorpion, and the Habits of other Reptiles.--The Opera.--The Emperor and Court.--The Brazilians think of carrying the War i...

We leave Rio, and march towards the Horn.--Man overboard and drowned.--La Plata.--We take an Albatross.--Terra del Fuego.--Pitch of the Cape.--A Marine dies.--How the Yankee Cor...

Valparaiso.--Bell of Quillota and Tupongati.--Where and how the Town is built.--Birlochea.--Shops.--The Terraces.--El Almendral.--Carmencita.--Creole Ladies.--Tertulias.--The Sa...

Summary of Events Preceding our Arrival.--Difficulties between Fremont and Castro.--Operations of Naval Forces.--Skirmish at San Pascual.--Battles of San Gabriel and La Mesa.--T...

Town of Monterey.--Our First Impressions.--Days of Barricades.--Sentinels.--The Rocky-Mountain Men.--Keg of Whiskey, and the Use it was put to.--The Trapper's little Anecdote co...

Treaty of Los Angeles.--The Lady that had a Strange Taste In Jewelry.--The Disregard of Soap in those Countries.--Visit to an Extensive Establishment.--The Dona herself, with he...

Mission of Carmelo.--Tramp in the Mountains.--Wolves and Venison.--We become bewildered, but encounter a Guide.--Boudoirs for Damsels.--The Fandango.--How the Gentlemen amused t...

Maritime Alps of California.--Entrance to Bay of San Francisco.--Yerbabuena.--Society.--Pranks on Horses.--Saddles.--New York Regiment.--The Cannibal Emigrants, and the Dutchman...

Monterey again.--The Pioneer Newspaper, with the Editor, Dr. Semple.--We Sail for the Mexican Coast.--Island of Guadalupe.--Peninsular of Lower California.--Jesuits.--Trade.--Po...

Cruise of the Rosita.--Anchorage of Venados.--The Oyster-boat.--We received a Hostage in Doctor Barret, and learn his Misfortunes.--Change of Position.--We take a Prize, and aft...

Dispatches and Equipments.--Californian Gamesters.--The Vacuero.--Don Herman.--The Youthful Mother and her Gay Deceiver.--We Sup on Eggs.--Murphy's Rancho.--Pretty Ellen.--Pictu...

Sail up the Bay.--Embarcadera of San Jose.--We sleep at a Rancho.--Don Ignacio proves to be a Scamp.--Puebla.--Architecture and Agriculture.--Mission of Santa Clara.--The Cannon...

San Francisco once more.--Head Waters.--Bay of San Pablo.--Village of Sinoma. Vallejo.--Captain Swayback.--Hunting.--We Kill an Antelope.--Straits of Carquinez.--City of Benecia...

California becomes tranquil, and the Columbus sails for Home.--Sailors drilled on Shore.--We Return to Monterey.--Town increasing.--The Reverend Alcalde, and how he collected Tr...

Final Adieu to Monterey.--Reach Cape San Blas, and San Jose.--We visit Alcaldes, and how they passed their Leisure.--Our First Search for the Enemy.--When we are offered a Baby,...

Demonstrations before Mazatlan.--Summons to Surrender.--We land Sailor Troops, and occupy the Town.--Positions and Selections for Defence.--Land Ordnance.--Ayuntamientos.--Mexic...

Burning Launches.--Skirmishing.--A Reefer's Idea of Bullets.--The Retreat.--We lose the Road, and are scared.--Affair at Urias.--Ambuscade.--Escaramuza. Flight.--Burial of the S...

Duties of a Garrison.--The Garita.--We Make a Night March, and Surprise Ligueras.--The Killed.--Lady with them.--Our Trophies.--The Commandante's Wife.--Is the Innocent Cause of...

How they Marry in Mazatlan.--Fights with Cuchillos.--The Man who is divested of part of his Scalp and Ear.--Cures effected--Flying Trip to Urias.--Where we take General Urrea's...

Mexican Troop pronounce against their Leaders.--We become Poverty Stricken.--Lancers attempt to run the Gauntlet, and carry away some Buckshot.--Description of the Casa Blanca,...

El Tigre del Norte.--Mr. Bill Foley.--Sociedads.--Circus.--Monte.--Golden Toad.--Carnival.--Intercourse with Foreign Society.--Hauson and the Hern Hutter. Don Guillermo.--While...

News of the Peace.--The Outsiders become complimentary, and pay a visit to Madre Maria.--With the Mounted Patrol and Captain Luigi we ride to Venadillo, and disturb the slumbers...

Siege of San Jose.--Defences of Garrison.--The Summons and Parley.--The Storming Party.--Mijares Killed with his Forlorn Hope.--The Brave Whalemen.--Ambuscade and Prisoners.--Th...

We Begin a Journey to the City of Mexico.--Disembark at San Blas.--Ride to Tepic.--Cotton Mills of Barron, Forbes & Co.--Volcanic Masses.--Aquacatlan.--The Red-hot Patriot.--Wak...

Guadalajara.--Senor Llamas.--The Lovely Senora.--Plaza and Beauty.--The Great Bridge.--Old Cypriano's Superstition regarding Horses' Souls.--Tepetitlan.--Pueblos del Rincon.--Th...

Queretaro.--Aqueduct.--Night ride by Post.--The United States Escort.--City of Mexico.--We are refused a Drive.--Cathedral.--Palace.--Plaza.--Museum.--Sacrificial Stone.--Manner...

Bureau of Postes.--Depart from the Aztec Capital.--Exemptions of Government Extraordinarios.--Livery Stable Woman at Tepetitlan.--Invited to a Country Seat, and dine with Ladies...

Senor Rosa forgets our Escort, and we are scared and nearly coach-wrecked.--Mine of La Luz.--Pass through Guanajuato to Lagos.--A Pronunciamento.--Padre Jarauta, who treats us w...

Bull-fight at Guadalajara.--What Fools the Beasts are, and what Brutes the Men are.--La Comedia.--Antique Guide.--Execution of Robbers.--Tequilla.--Patron of the Meson and his D...

Don Guillermo and Senor Molinero.--The Olas Altas, and the gay scenes there enacted.--Thieves and Leperos.--How to learn Castilian.--Evacuation of Mazatlan by the U. S. Forces. 307

Sailing of the Squadron.--Cross the Gulf, and arrive in La Paz.--Appearance of Vegetation.--How we amused Ourselves.--Fandangos.--Ball on Shipboard.--Marine Pic Nic.--The Carrer...

What the U. S. Government did to induce the Natives to lake up Arms.--The Volunteer who shot his Wife.--Little Sam Patch.--Flying Visit to Mazatlan, and Last Farewell. 326

We leave Mexico.--Go to the Sandwich Islands, and anchor in Byron's Bay, or Hilo.--Natives.--Scenery.--Constables.--Meeting House.--Dialect.--Sermon.--We Depart for the Interior...

High School of Lahainaluna for Boys.--Other Institutions for Girls.--Character of Hawaiians.--Their Crimes and Vices.--Board of Presbyterian Missions.--Exaggerations upon Moral...

King Kammehamma, or the Lonely One.--Ministers.--Presentation at Court.--Furniture of the Palace.--Approach of Royalty.--Speeches.--Costumes.--Princes of the blood royal, who pa...

Nukeheva.--Bay of Anna Maria.--Style of Head-dress in Vogue.--Tattooing, and other Ornaments.--French Garrison.--Physical Characteristics of these Savages.--Bathing.--King's Res...

Brown Road.--Semi-Civilization.--Excursion to Pomarce Country House at Papoa.--The Queen and her Hen-coop Habitation.--School.--Fondness for Flowers.--Native Dinner.--Jack the H...

Trip to the Mountains.--Teina.--Ferry-Boat, By Toanni.--Lofty Cascade, Fortress of Faatoar.--Losses by the French.--The Diadem.--We spread a Banquet, and the Ladies have an Appe...

The Clergy Mingling in every-day Panoramas.--Vespers.--Promenades.--Bull Fights.--Berlinas.--Sayas y Mantas, and Speculations upon uses and abuses.--Youthful Lumps of Gold, and...

It was on the last day of summer, 1846, that a large vessel of war lay in the stream of Boston Harbor; presently a dirty little steam tug, all bone and muscle, came burroughing...

"The far ships lifting their sails of white Like joyful hands; come up with scattered light, Come gleaming up, true to the wished for day, And chase the whistling brine, and swi...

Much of my time was passed with friends on the shores of the bay, a short distance beyond Gloria Hill, and I was in a certain degree relieved from the banging and roaring of can...

On the twenty-ninth of October, the anchors were loosened from their muddy beds; a light land wind fanned us out of the harbor, and with a white silver moon, we began our dreary...

There can be no greater satisfaction to a wind-buffetted rover, than sailing into a new place, and the consolation of knowing there are still others behind the curtain. It was t...

We were aroused one morning at peep of day by the heavy, booming report of a gun from the frigate, and on tearing open our eyelids, saw the chequered cornet flying at the fore,...

Pending disturbances between the United States and Mexico, when the quarrel had not reached an open rupture, much excitement prevailed in Upper California, through the agency of...

The rain came down in a steady drizzle, as we anchored in our new haven, but as the falling water thinned, and rolled partially along the land, we discerned an endless successio...

The time passed rapidly away. The rainy season had nearly ended,--we were only favored with occasional showers, and by the latter part of February, the early spring had burst fo...

One morning, at break of day, I left Monterey for a tramp among the hills; the natives by this time had become pacifically disposed, and there were no serious apprehensions of g...

We remained two months at Monterey; and then upon the assembling of the squadron, and the arrival of a new Commodore, rather than play segundo violo, and have the blue pennant o...

Tarrying a fortnight at Yerbabuena, we then crossed the bay and dropped anchor beneath the lofty hills of Sousoulito, where we busied ourselves filling up with fresh water. This...

Having completed watering at Sousoulito, we left San Francisco and returned to Monterey. Even during the short period of our absence a rapid improvement was visible. Many Mormon...

Leaping over the taffrail of the Rosita, without the aid of an accommodation ladder, I found myself the monarch of a peopled deck of fifteen trusty sailors, and a small boy, to...

During the period of our blockade, which lasted but thirty-four days, there were no demonstrations made by the authorities of Mazatlan, to pronounce against their government, no...

Being charged with dispatches for San Francisco, an early breakfast and hasty preparations soon placed me astride a dragoon's saddle. Attended by an artillery soldier and six ho...

Remaining but a few days in Yerbabuena, and when on the point of taking leave, I met with a brace of navy men, who were about to sail up the Bay for a hunt among the hills; so g...

The latter part of July found the frigate again moored off Yerbabuena, in the waters of San Francisco. A number of us had long anticipated the pleasure of a trip to the northwar...

On the 26th of July, 1847, the Columbus, seventy-four, bearing the pennant of Commodore Biddle, sailed from San Francisco for the United States, leaving the flag of the Commande...

We sailed from Monterey on the 16th of October--rounded Point Pinos, and, bidding a final adieu to Upper California, bore away to the southward. On the 25th, we found ourselves...

Mazatlan lies in latitude 23 deg. 12' N. verging on the tropic, flanked by a broad belt, ten leagues wide, of the _Tierra Caliente_, with the lofty mountains that support the el...

The Mexicans remained encamped but three days at Palos Prietos, when, leaving strong posts of cavalry to blockade the roads, and intercept communication with the town, they reti...

anxiously peering about, and we were certain that the first movement on our side would be attended with inevitable capture, with melancholy thoughts of perspective dinners on fr...

A month had elapsed since the occupation of Mazatlan, and we had all been busily employed upon the fortifications, and in acquiring a little knowledge of our new duties on shore...

Towards the close of the year we had become quite domesticated in the town, and habituated to our new duties: the dullness that ensued upon the occupation had changed into anima...

The new year dawned upon us, and January and February passed rapidly away. The popularity of the Mexican Commandante, Telles, was waning fast. A number of his own officers had p...

Soon after the occupation of Mazatlan, I made the acquaintance of a young Mexican girl, of a respectable family in Guadalajara, who had eloped with her lover, an officer station...

We could not boast of an opera, or any grand theatrical displays in Mazatlan; but yet our sailor-troops, as sailors always do when unemployed, had contrived a Thespian corps, an...

In the month of March the first positive information relating to rumors of peace reached Mazatlan. It was agreeable news to a few former _empleados_ of the customs and courts, a...

During the period of our occupation of Mazatlan, the remaining ships of the squadron had not been idle along the neighboring shores of the gulf. The Port of Guaymas, on the Main...

Early in the month of May, the Ohio, 74, arrived at Mazatlan. On the 8th, I was ordered to prepare for a journey to the city of Mexico--my preparations were made in five minutes...

Guadalajara is a beautiful city, of an hundred thousand people, laid out in broad, regular streets, with solid and imposing houses, painted outside gaily in frescoes--and plazas...

I arrived in Queretaro on the 20th of May--seven and a-half days from San Blas. It is an antiquated city, built when rich mines were yielding their treasures in the vicinity, an...

The day previous to my departure from Mexico, I called at the Bureau of Postes for a license, and made a report of what I considered collusion betwixt the Ladrons and Cochero, n...

It was quite dark on taking my place in the diligence, but getting comfortably seated, I heard one of the passengers inquire if there was to be an escort; so putting my head out...

I was duly installed in my former lodgings at the French fonda, and in the afternoon, being a holiday, went to the Plaza de Toros. The arena was spacious, but without the wooden...

My arrival happened on the 13th of June. The garrison had been very much strengthened, and a block-house was under construction near the estero, with the expectation of holding...

The squadron sailed, and I was ordered to embark in a fine old store-ship, to cross the Sea of Cortez. The lumbering craft went urging her lazy length through the water, her sai...

Long before the arrival of the squadron in La Paz, the natives of Lower California had been awaiting with the extremest solicitude the negociations prior to the final ratificati...

For twenty days after sailing from the Mexican coast, the steady trade-wind drove the frigate merrily over the blue water, until one evening we found ourselves, with wings furle...

During the fortnight of our stay in the bay of Hilo, we had opportunities of observing a fair sample of island life. It is a place less visited than others of the Hawaiian group...

Before dusk the green shores had faded from our sight, although the snow-capped head of Mauna Kea arose as plainly and proudly as if we were within a mile of his feet.

The large native seminary at Lahainaluna, upon which the Missions place great hopes of future usefulness, was under the superintendence of Messrs. Andrews and Alexander, gentlem...

After a delightful visit spent at Lahaina, late one afternoon, we bade adieu to Maui, and steering between Lanai and Molokai, by daylight the following morning we had passed Dia...

King Kammehamma, or Kamme, as he is familiarly called, is the third of his race: his ancestors were fierce, ungovernable gentlemen, who, in the good old times, clubbed and kille...

We were forty days at the Sandwich Islands, and on the 21st of September weighed anchor, and sailed away from the fertile vales of Oahu. Passing along the western shores of the...

The bay and harbor of Anna Maria is scooped out of the Island in shape of a horse-shoe; hemmed in on three sides by steep mountains, whose sharp, well-defined acclivities spring...

Early the next morning I went on shore, but duties of the garrison prevented the officers from leaving until the morning was somewhat advanced--too late to cross the dividing ri...

On the 28th of September, the well-used chains and anchors were raised from their beds, and with a light wind we drifted slowly from the lonely bay of Anna Maria. The sun arose...

The rain fell in torrents the day succeeding our arrival, and it was not until Sunday that I had courage to set foot on shore: then I went solus, and jumping on the beach, two m...

Early one morning the Governor and myself left the ship at gunfire, for a pic-nic among the mountains. We met with no more serious adventure in our transit from the frigate to t...

With easterly winds we sailed away to the southward. In a fortnight the sky became dull and gloomy--the rain fell, chill and cold--we tumbled from our warm beds with a shock int...

The 28th of January, 1849, found us on the Peruvian coast, abreast the Island of San Lorenzo, a mountain of sand, where not a blade of grass can vegetate; and rounding Galera Ca...

There are interminable strings of mules and donkeys constantly passing and repassing to the bubbling fountains of plazas or churches, each with twin reservoirs of water-barrels...

The public edifices of Lima, which are so closely connected with the History of the Conquest, and the bloody revolutionary struggles of Peru, have no other attributes, either in...

We found Valparaiso very much improved since our first visit, more so, in fact, than would be generally believed for a Creole town. Streets had been newly paved and extended, wh...

Homeward Bound! A loud report from the frigate's bow gun, and before the smoke had vanished, the cornet was fluttering at the mast-head--a signal for sailing. The brave boatswai...