CHAPTER VIII

LORD RIPON LEAVES INDIA

Arrangements for Entertaining Visitors--Lord de Grey’s Shooting--A Good-looking Staff--A Fancy Ball--The Baby cries--Lord William Feeds the Infant--Singing Quadrilles--Pig-sticking--The Tent Club and Its Members--A Case of Mistaken Identity--The Reputation Match--Lord William Resolves to Give Up Racing--Lord Ripon’s Farewell

During Lord Ripon’s time in India a number of people came out from home to stay with him, some wishing to combine a visit to their friends with shooting, pig-sticking and globe-trotting. This kept Lord William busy, as he had to make all the arrangements for their comfort, and where they were to stay, when the Viceregal Lodge was full, which was generally the case. Occasionally he turned out of his own house for guests, searched for suitable bungalows for others, making everybody comfortable and yet without the least apparent effort. Rajahs were communicated with, and shoots arranged; horses were found to suit the various riders, chosen in accordance to their prowess, programmes made out for each day, and printed instructions sent on ahead, so that all was in readiness at each halting place, carriages, horses, servants, food, sport and all the heart of man could desire.

The happy relations existing between Lord William and the Native Princes made this easier for him than it might have been for many.

The present Marquess of Ripon, then Lord de Grey, came to stay with his father, and was anxious to have some big game shooting. He is, as everybody knows, one of the best shots in England. His game card from 1867 to 1891 gives some idea of his skill and the sport provided. I think the years 1880 and 1882 were the years he was shooting in India.

GAME KILLED FROM 1867 TO 1891.

(Part 1 of 2) ====================================================================== Rhinoceros Buffalo Pig Red Deer Partridge Date Tiger S??? Deer Grouse Pheasants ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1867 8 265 1.179 741 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1868 35 201 1.418 1.601 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1869 35 135 1.659 1.431 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1870 21 498 2.308 2.117 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1871 55 1.408 1.598 1.889 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1872 38 1.498 2.083 2.835 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1873 25 248 2.417 3.050 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1874 3 5 90 2.878 2.345 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1875 3 287 2.882 3.225 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1876 3 1.554 3.394 4.110 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1877 2 4 2.032 2.359 4.235 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1878 4 9 1.669 3.378 4.679 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1879 4 1.344 630 3.140 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1880 9 6 18 31 73 12 1.131 682 531 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1881 5 1.566 3.465 5.014 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1882 2 2 6 1 66 104 10 3.025 2.123 2.370 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1883 5 2.896 1.845 6.119 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1884 10 3.073 3.523 4.347 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1885 5 2.015 2.788 4.620 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1886 20 1.989 1.463 3.383 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1887 57 2.258 3.785 3.387 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1888 4 3.060 853 5.072 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1889 5 3.081 5.751 6.182 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1890 2.006 7.002 6.498 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1891 2.277 1.699 5.794 ====================================================================== 2 11 12 19 97 186 378 39.606 63.163 88.715

(Part 2 of 2) ================================================================== Wood Cock Wild Duck Capercai- Rabbits Total Date Snipe Black Game llies K??? Various ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1867 20 22 10 -- -- 719 934 115 4.013 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1868 28 67 23 -- -- 690 543 113 4.719 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1869 26 133 37 -- -- 547 443 122 4.568 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1870 36 53 30 -- -- 893 626 137 6.660 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1871 50 244 42 -- -- 1.093 341 225 6.945 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1872 27 60 31 -- -- 1.108 756 235 8.671 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1873 95 263 85 -- -- 1.027 450 591 8.231 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1874 229 462 131 5 4 1.200 302 1.200 8.854 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1875 176 461 208 -- -- 1.376 576 743 9.937 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1876 30 25 37 -- -- 1.248 890 266 11.557 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1877 35 45 33 11 11 1.496 1.044 309 11.616 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1878 43 44 55 5 6 2.152 667 503 13.214 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1879 132 92 62 9 11 1.125 287 215 7.051 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1880 9 47 54 26 5 501 141 408 3.684 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1881 26 14 43 -- -- 1.058 797 166 12.154 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1882 14 21 44 -- -- 464 1.122 117 9.491 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1883 157 84 155 -- -- 918 1.386 319 13.884 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1884 134 70 70 -- -- 713 1.896 453 14.289 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1885 104 23 31 -- -- 589 2.547 108 12.830 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1886 105 87 72 -- -- 357 786 349 8.611 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1887 104 3 12 -- -- 415 2.328 237 12.586 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1888 31 151 10 -- -- 307 1.523 85 11.096 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1889 100 109 14 38 8 1.747 1.069 135 18.239 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1890 172 105 28 -- -- 1.446 1.120 123 18.500 ------------------------------------------------------------------ 1891 34 13 -- -- -- 711 406 271 11.205 ================================================================== 1.917 2.698 1.317 94 45 23.840 22.980 7.543 252.625

LORD DE GREY’S GAME CARD FROM 1867-91

Amongst others who came out were Lord and Lady Wenlock, Lady Charles Beresford, and later their Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of Connaught.

Lord William found a pleasant bungalow, not far from the Viceregal Lodge, for Lady Wenlock, while her husband was away shooting, and she spent a good deal of time sketching. Being of an artistic temperament she delighted in the scenery and colouring, finding endless opportunities to practise her art--plenty of work for her brush. Yet at times the colouring is so superb it defies all efforts of speech or brush.

Picture the hill-sides one blaze of rhododendrons, sheets of them leading down to green valleys, where after the rains maidenhair ferns and wild orchids cling lovingly to the branches of the trees, on the ground, carpets of little white flowers resembling our lily of the valley, but lacking its scent, in the distance blue mountains, behind these purple mountains, behind these again snow-clad peaks, a brilliant sun shining over all, framing pictures that remain in memory for life, and yet there are times when the very splendour of it seizes us with a limitless despair. In these few beautiful moments when the sun, symbol of deity in the East, is bidding us good-night, changing all round from rose to red, orange to turquoise, leaving a tiny twilight, and the day is gone, hidden away behind a mist of grey. And we think--but no, we will not think, we will go dress for the “Poggle Khana” or fools’ dance, as the natives call a fancy dress ball. But of these more later.

I wish to introduce my readers to a group of people taken about this time. All the men are members of the Viceregal Staff. Lady Wenlock is in the centre, handsome Lord Alwyne Compton (died in 1911) is seen sitting behind her; he was one of the A.D.C.’s. When not on duty he had an affection for a brown velveteen coat and yellow button-hole, which suited him exceedingly well, his hair, eyes and skin, being almost Italian looking. Lord William, Military Secretary, is on Lady Wenlock’s left, and beside him sits Lady Charles Beresford, his sister-in-law. Then comes Mr. Primrose, Private Secretary to the Viceroy (now the Right Hon. Sir Henry Primrose). On the extreme left is Capt. St. Quinten, another good looking young man, who was a favourite A.D.C. in the viceregal household. Sitting at Lady Charles Beresford’s feet is Capt. Clough Taylor, who hailed from the same county as the Ripons, he also was A.D.C. His wife, Lady Elizabeth Clough Taylor (died in 1896) is sitting on Lady Wenlock’s right. Behind her stands the Hon. Miss Lawley. Sitting at Lady Elizabeth’s feet is Capt. Muir, A.D.C. (now Colonel) and Commander of the Body Guard. In the arm-chair below Miss Lawley is the Hon. Charles Harbord, A.D.C. (now Lord Suffield), and next to him Capt. Rochfort, A.D.C. (now Sir Alex. Rochfort, Governor of Jersey).

It will be observed their Excellencies liked good looking men on their staff.

Now I am anxious to tell you about the fancy dress balls.

Some of the dresses worn in India on these occasions are marvellous, people out there seem to take much greater pains to do the thing properly, and there have been many anxious moments in case the dresses should not arrive from Paris or England in time. One fancy dress ball I remember as being particularly amusing, but it was not at Simla. Lord William appeared as a Chelsea Pensioner, and was quite excellent. A good looking woman, wife of an Artilleryman, was “A Wasp”; she naturally had a tiny waist. The wondrous dress with its stripy bands of yellow, black gauze wings, and the little antennae in her head, all well carried out, but the wings made dancing difficult, so she sat in a corner with the Chelsea Pensioner a good deal. The poor old Pensioner did not like much light--it hurt his poor old eyes. But the chief joke of the evening was when a big hefty hospital nurse carried into the ballroom a very lusty looking big red-faced baby, with a distinctly blue line along the upper lip. A white rosette-adorned cap tied under his chin, a short white frock reaching a little below his knees which stuck out all round from the amount of material it contained, which, however, helped to support a big blue sash, matching the shoulder knots; frilled kicksey-wickseys, white socks and sandal shoes completed this child’s costume. The bottle of milk which he was sucking, or pretending to suck, was fixed to his sash, and had a long tube. The nurse put down her charge to toddle along the floor, still holding his hand, but the baby if left for a moment began to cry.

It was not long before we discovered in the baby a hard riding man who had brought some hounds out from home and given us some amusement with them in the cold weather, his nurse was an officer in a smart cavalry regiment. Before the evening was over so many practical jokes had been played on the poor baby that he and his nurse in self-defence retired and changed into ordinary evening garments; but not before supper, when Lord William insisted on feeding the baby with a tablespoon, and dived first into one dish and then another so quickly that the already red-faced baby became apoplectic; it was after this he escaped, having been severely patted on the back for a choking fit.

India has changed since those days when the natives used to be rather shocked at ladies appearing publicly in evening dress, and at some of the flirtations, perhaps not entirely peculiar to the East, but to-day they have become so civilised and Westernised it takes a good deal more to shock them.

The country is a mixture of shabbiness and gorgeousness, pathos and childishness. Some of us appear very giddy out there, because if we did not, we should cry; so ride and dance, keeping up a ceaseless round of activity, we _say_ because it keeps us in health, which in a measure no doubt it does, it also leaves no time for thoughts of home and regrets.

The music of the country is quite peculiar to itself, so is the dancing, which is poor and monotonous, but, of course, I am speaking of some years ago, now possibly the Princes are asking their bandmasters the names of the morsels being played to them, and are told, as really happened I believe to Queen Victoria once, who, on hearing a particularly bright tune being played, asked its name. Nobody seemed able, or inclined, to inform her, but she was determined to know, and sent specially to the band to ask, the messenger returned looking a little uncomfortable, and said it was called “Come where the booze is cheaper.” Probably tunes of that sort are now the order of the day, having travelled with the motor-car and latter-day luxuries.

During the winter in India, singing quadrilles were the fashion, and had to be rehearsed frequently, it was rather funny to see Lord William being schooled into singing his part of “Ba ba black sheep, have you any wool?”; he learnt “Where are you going to, my pretty maid?” much quicker.

It is astonishing the amount of talent that is represented at times in the hill stations in summer, it is by no means uncommon to have really good Christy Minstrels, concerts and even high-class oratorios. (I suppose the latter ought to have been mentioned first).

Lord William did not take part in the big game shooting unless he had to go officially, as it bored him to tears, but he loved pig-sticking more than any other form of sport, and used to get a good deal of it from Calcutta. He belonged to the Calcutta Tent Club, and always said the best days he had were when with his friend “Archie Hills, on his own land at Packabari.” Mr. Hills, if I remember right, was an indigo planter. He appears in the pig-sticking group. For those unacquainted with this form of sport I will explain it briefly. The game can be played by one alone, but usually by three or four men who go out together mounted on horses, and armed with spears to hunt and slay the boar. My own humble opinion is that Arabs are the pleasantest mounts for this form of sport, they seem to understand the broken ground better than any other class of horse and are sure-footed.

The boars are not like our English pork, but very fierce fighting animals; tigers have been known to fight shy of them. It is wonderful the way these pigs cover the ground; they are really fast, and give jumps and bounds of a surprising nature. They generally begin by going away from the sportsmen, but after a while when they get annoyed, and think it is time for some fun themselves, they will turn suddenly and charge the enemy. Some horses that have been ridden regularly after pig, are clever at dodging these charges, which is a distinct advantage, a rip from the tusk of a boar is a nasty one, they always rip upwards, inflicting horrid wounds, when they get the chance.

The Tent Club, already mentioned, was formed at Calcutta of pig-stickers, a photo of which will be found with the names of the most prominent members. I do not remember hearing a great deal about Lord William’s pig-sticking, beyond the fact that he enjoyed it above all things, and got as much of it as his duties allowed. It was returning from pig-sticking in 1880, I think, that an excitement occurred in which Lord William took part.

A number of horses, about 250, had been landed from the ship _Thessalus_, with a view to taking them to Dhurrumtollah, where stables were ready for them; how to get them there was a matter of speculation; it was decided a few expert Australians, with stock whips, should drive them Colonial fashion, all grouped up together, this answered admirably for some time, until one or two of the leaders took it into their heads that gas lamps were dangerous things, and galloped madly away through the streets, followed by all the rest, simply a mad galloping and hurruishing crowd of horses, a regular stampede, not a pleasant thing to find advancing towards you. They rushed with alarming clatter through the streets out into the maidan or plain, where they broke up into groups, tearing off in every direction. It took all night and part of the next day collecting the animals, who by that time had tasted enough freedom and were not sorry to be caught, but the excitement was great. One unfortunate man, who was riding home at a belated hour, meeting this charging cavalcade turned his horse’s head very wisely and was carried along with them.

Lord William was a good judge of a horse and understood their training, he was therefore often asked for his advice, and if anyone had a good horse they wished to sell they usually let Lord William have a look at it. One day in Calcutta, Mr. John Ralli sent him for trial a very fine fast trotting mare to look at; his lordship decided to buy her. The same evening he went for a “walk round” at Belvedere and saw there a Mr. S. (we will say) and his very handsome wife walking arm-in-arm. There was a very strong likeness between Mr. Ralli and Mr. S., and as Lord William passed, mistaking him for Mr. Ralli, he gave a little pinch whispering, “She’s a ripper.” Mr. S. immediately replied, “You’re a scoundrel, sir!” Lord William was very indignant and thought the man had gone mad, as, of course, he was referring to Mr. John Ralli’s fast trotting mare. Mr. S. was also angry, thinking Lord William referred to his wife. Rather a funny story of mistaken identity.

Lord William was with the Viceroy on the memorable occasion when touring a certain district where the natives had come to the conclusion that, under the new Viceroy’s rule, they were to have a free run among the scattered European residents, where several ladies were living, and when he arrived the said scattered Europeans were not inclined to give his Excellency a favourable reception! This episode was referred to as the “White Mutiny.”

The Autumn of 1882 was not a very lucky one from the racing point of view. Both the Dehra and Umballa meetings were poor and temporarily somewhat out of favour. The winter of 1882-3 was not much better, at Calcutta Lord William certainly won a race with Fariz and another with Mooltan, and he won a match five hundred rupees a side, riding his Premier against Captain Webb, on Mr. Godjack’s Skirmishe.

In May came the news of his partner’s death, poor Mr. Monty Stewart, who had gone home sick. In consequence of this, all the horses were put up for sale, the majority being bought by the Sporting Maharajah of Jodhpore.

Lord William not being able to afford racing alone, on the lines he aspired to, now looked round for another partner, and before long he and the young and rich Maharajah of Durbangah came to an arrangement. The Rajah had acquired a taste for racing from Major Ben Roberts, who had just left India to take up some appointment in England. So now began another partnership, and more money was forthcoming to purchase valuable horses. Ryder was once more sent to England to see what he could find, Lord William also went on short leave and returned with a sprinter named Reputation, Father Prout and Little Charlie. £2000 was given for Reputation, and before leaving for India he won the Egremont Plate of £300 and the Glasgow Plate £200, but he was a nervous horse, did not travel well, was easily thrown off his oats and did no good in India where the ground was too hard for him, which was disappointing, for in the Egremont Plate before leaving England when being ridden by “Archer” he gave 16lbs. to Laceman and 27lbs. to Hornpipe, who were the same age, yet won easily.

Reputation was a smart good-looking horse, bought from a solicitor I believe named Tidy, whom it may be remembered Lord Marcus once tackled in his office, ending in fisticuffs and police court proceedings.

On May 10th, 1883, a great match was arranged between Lord William and Mr. Leopold de Rothschild: the former backing his Reputation against the latter’s Brag. Archer rode for Lord William and Fordham for Mr. Rothschild. The race was run at the Newmarket Spring meeting, 200 sovereigns a side T.Y.C. Matches were quite a fashionable feature of the sport at this period and were generally arranged overnight and a surprise addition to the day’s racing.

The excitement was great over this race, many were interested in it, amongst others the Prince of Wales, Sir J. Astley, Lord Hartington (afterwards Duke of Devonshire) and many more. Crowds flocked to see the race run and there was a good deal of money on it. The horses ran close together most of the course, it was most thrilling, but eventually Brag gained the advantage about a hundred yards from home, winning cleverly by a neck. Perhaps for the benefit of those who are not race-goers I ought to explain T.Y.C. means the two year old course at Newmarket which is five furlongs and 140 yards. This course was a long way from the stand; there were more winning-posts in those days than there are now. It was customary for people to hack over to the different places to see the finish. Brag had the advantage in weight as Reputation had to give him 14lbs., which, in the opinion of many people who were in a position to judge, was considered too much to ask. Perhaps Lord William was not as experienced at that time as he was later in that delicate game of matching: considerable knowledge being necessary to bring it off successfully.

A number of people will not forget that day easily, a good deal of money changed hands over the race.

It was in the Palace House at Newmarket, Lord William made this Brag and Reputation match; where Mr. Leopold de Rothschild always entertained both King Edward and our present King. It is an unpretentious looking abode but very historic, and was the Newmarket house of Charles II.

The newly purchased horses arrived safely in India on July 30th, 1883. But now more bad luck attended poor Lord William, for while riding at Cawnpore in the Gangees Cup he broke his collarbone, and hardly had he recovered from this than, in a jumping Competition at Simla, he dislocated his shoulder and was not able to enjoy the Dehra Autumn meeting.

When once a shoulder has been dislocated it forms a fondness for the amusement and continues to do it with slight provocation. Lord William says it happened once through sneezing!

Though unable to attend the Dehra Meeting, his stable was represented, an Australian named The Mute won the Trials, Action won the Gimcrack Stakes and Johnnie the Hack race. Later at Meerut, Lord William was well enough to ride, and on a horse purchased from the circus proprietor, John Wilson, won the Maiden Chase. At Umballa riding Johnnie he was triumphant in the Grand Military Steeplechase, but got a toss in the Grand Annual when riding Jack the circus horse, but he remounted and finished the race. On the last day of the Umballa meeting he grew annoyed at the weight his horses had to carry and refused to start any one of them, declaring he was sick of racing, and meant to “give it up, and go in for Botany or Erotics.”

In spite of this heroic resolve the following month he was riding at Lahore.

The Calcutta 1883-4 first cold weather meeting, Lord William had a walk over for the Monsoon Welter Cup. At the second meeting Syndicate won the Hooghly Plate, but had only one opponent. In March, Diamond won the Corinthian Stakes, and Caspian the Sirhind Plate. Lord William thought a good deal of an Arab they--he and his partner--owned, named Reformer, and he sent it to England to run at Newmarket in the Arab races, but the poor beast died in the Red Sea.

In June, the first and second day’s racing at Simla saw Lord William without a winning mount.

Though Lord Ripon’s time was comparatively free from political anxieties he had a number of guests to stay with him all to be amused and catered for, this provided food for thought on the Military Secretary’s part, who was ceaseless in his endeavours, but the hard work of that and the constant strain of his racing engagements was beginning to tell on Lord Bill, and he began to look as if a journey home for a while would be good for him.

Only those who understand racing know the amount of thought and care it requires to be successful, even with luck in their favour. To begin at the beginning, money is not made out of the stakes that are won, expenses generally throw the balance into the wrong side, therefore it is betting must do it, and we know Lord William did make a good deal of money over his racing, but it was thanks to his own cleverness. To be successful it must be studied as a business; there are many elements to be taken into consideration and reckoned with, it is really a vast study. Jockeys have to be chosen and retained. Trainers found who give satisfaction and understand their work. Races looked up to suit the horses in the stable, and horses bought to suit the big-plum races all are keen on winning, and after all these considerations how often things go awry.

It is not reassuring to know that the moment a man takes up racing his honour no longer remains in his own hands, for now he has to take his trainer, his jockey, his syce, and his understudies into consideration, not forgetting his horse. On the face of it, it seems as if only a very philosophical person could bear the strain.

When things go wrong it is usually put down to either the jockey’s evil doing, or the owner’s sharp practice, while it by no means follows that either is to blame. So many things, and so many people have to be taken into consideration, the horse by no means the least; for horses like human beings have their good and bad days, their moods and tempers, but are unable to explain their feelings. Trainers are likewise not infallible, inclined at times to think some of their geese have grown into swans (in all good faith), forgetting other people have a swan or two.

Owners are obliged of necessity to rely a good deal on their trainer’s judgment, but those who come off best are undoubtedly the men who keep an eye on their horses, having opinions of their own and able to carry their own tails. Against this there is the trainer who will not express an opinion, which is vexation to owners wishing to discuss their chances.

Then again think of the anxiety attached to sending valuable horses from place to place to fulfil their engagements; the serious question of what race will be suitable to each horse, the difficulty of deciding what and when to buy, what and when to sell, and judging their public value. Buying race-horses is a different thing altogether to choosing a hunter or a carriage horse. The temper of the parents has to be thought of, and indeed traced back a good long way, also whether any of the family are inclined to be musical. The shape of horses’ feet is important, and so few people agree about horses’ points, the wonder is any trainer and owner can be found to agree.

Lord William looked most carefully after the training of his own horses, and this is no sinecure; they require constant watching. Some have capricious appetites and have to be coaxed with dainties or they will not eat enough, others do not thrive unless they eat grossly and have to be exercised in proportion; here comes in the valuable gift of being able to judge condition, many fail in this most critical point.

It was greatly owing to Lord William’s study of his horses’ characters and temperaments that he was as successful as he was; he knew (none better) that all cannot be treated alike, in sickness and in health, as they say in the Marriage Service; he was also perfectly aware of the uncertainty attached to all matters appertaining to horse-racing. Horses as a rule do their utmost to meet the wishes of their riders, but the training is a severe trial, and the tempers of some give away under it. Their life seems to be one long persecution; it is to be hoped their feeling of fitness makes up for all the fuss and regulations.

Logic is no doubt a good training for owners, leading them to sound judgment, but horses are not given that way.

One good point in Lord William’s training was he did not overtrain, as a rule his horse had a reserve of staying power.

It will be seen that his lordship had plenty to occupy him, in fact considerably overworked himself habitually. Yet always cheerful and comfortably optimistic, and it really requires the temper of an angel to be able to manage horses, stablemen, jockeys, trainers and racing authorities. When we bear in mind that this was Lord William’s recreation, it enables us to form some idea of his busy life.

The State functions which all had to be arranged by him were no trifle, any mistakes or incompetence on the part of the Military Secretary might lead to serious trouble and jealousies. The official visits of the Rajahs to the Viceroy, our King’s representative for the time being, requires a special knowledge, each having to be received according to his rank. Some when coming to pay their respects have to be fetched, as I have already stated, by the Military Secretary, Under-Secretary of the Foreign Department, and an A.D.C. A guard of honour has to await his arrival, much red cloth spread, and a salute fired of as many guns as his rank entitles him, and they keep a very sharp and watchful eye, carefully noting these etiquettes, which are of staggering intricacy when receiving and paying visits. It is also obligatory that the General commanding the district should be in attendance with his A.D.C. Nothing must be left to chance. All is prescribed in the official regulations.

At the levees and drawing-rooms the Military Secretary reads the names on the cards handed to him as each person presents himself to bow or curtsey. Some of the foreign names are rather posers and shocking mouthfuls. It requires some pluck to tackle them, and it is surprising what offence is caused if any mistake is made. Supposing Mrs. De Larpent Fitz-Jones-Ben-Maurice is presented, and the De is left out or the Fitz-Jones perchance, many apologies and explanations will have to be made. Besides these functions the viceregal stables were looked after by the Military Secretary, the French cook Bonsard and the English coachman with their native underlings to be kept up to the mark, the ladies’ maids (who usually require so much more waiting on than their mistresses) to be amused, and the servants ready to carry them out in rickshaws or jampans, to eat the air, or in some cases, riding, and I think no one was overlooked or forgotten.

When on tour his lordship made out each day’s programme in advance, something after this fashion:

8 a.m. The Rajah of ... will send his Sirdars to ask after the health of the Viceroy.

9 a.m. His Excellency will eat his breakfast.

10 a.m. His Excellency will smoke and attend to his correspondence.

11 a.m. The Rajah will arrive, and the usual ceremonies take place.

12.30. His Excellency will return the Rajah’s visit.

1.30. Their Excellencies will have luncheon.

2.30. Sports and tent-pegging arranged by the Rajah for his Excellency’s amusement.

and so on throughout the day.

Imagine to yourself having to map out 365 days in this fashion and please everybody! Truly a great man, and some of the big functions I have been privileged to witness have sadly needed a Lord William as stage manager; he would have greatly added to the dignity of the shows and the persons taking part.

The official society in Simla at this period was particularly bright and happy. The Commander-in-Chief at Snowdon, Sir Donald Stewart, with his kindly wife and family of cheery, happy young people; the young men on the Viceroy’s staff, other dignitaries and their belongings, all like one big family, meeting nearly every day; then the crowd of visitors, officials from all over India on leave with their wives, officers up on short leave with wives if they own one, wives sent up for their health, while the husbands are kept working on the plains (Lord William being sure to look after them), little children with pale faces hoping to find some roses to take back to daddy; Lord William kept an eye on them all, ready to sympathise and help any he thought needing it.

It was at Simla in Lord Ripon’s time I first met the Rajah of Kooch Behar and the Maharanee. She had not long been married, was very shy and rather fragile looking, and wore beautiful silken draperies I remember. Her husband, the Rajah, was very popular with the English community, and a great friend of Lord William’s. They had much in common, as both were fond of racing, polo, and paperchasing, the latter of course only in the plains and Calcutta.

A few years ago I met the Maharanee again in London, and introduced my son to her, she being no longer shy but with an assured and very charming manner, speaking good English and dressed like the rest of us. My son said how pleased he was to meet her, he had heard me speak of her so often. She replied with a charming smile:

“And now you meet me I hope you are not disappointed.”

Latterly the Kooch Behars spent a good deal of time in England, where everybody liked them.

Lord Ripon’s reign was drawing to a close; he left India in November, 1884. More popular with the natives than any previous Viceroy, he was also much liked by those who worked with him. He was very loyal to them, but how glad he must have been to return to his own beautiful home in England. The following farewell is supposed to have emanated from his Excellency’s pen, it appeared in some local paper at the time I believe, and was sent to me as a cutting. I therefore do not know the name of the paper, so cannot ask its permission to quote it, but feel sure it will have no objection.

LORD RIPON’S GOOD NIGHT

Adieu! adieu! the land of palms Fades o’er the waters blue; The loafers yell, the planters roar, And weeps the mild Hindu. Apollo his own Bunder gilds, As slow he sinks from sight: Farewell to them and thee for aye, Unhappy land--Good night!

I leave thy shores to which I steered With hopes that swelled my heart, Their shadowy phantoms rise again To greet me ere I part. They came not through Sleep’s Ivory Gate, As once they came, dream-born, But whence the truer shades arise From the twin Gate of Horn.

They tell of many a purpose crossed, Of disconcerted plan: Of baffled aims that wisely chide The imaginings of man: Of fond desires, of fancied good, As though could power constrain All means to justest ends and bring A golden age again.

They tell of angry gathering crowds: Of Faction’s hate-swayed throng: Of wild words prompting wilder deeds, Unstayed by heed of wrong; The cruel taunt, the scornful jest, The slander that belies, The coward hiss that rose unshamed Before a woman’s eyes.

All save the last in other years I braved this, this, was spared; Though fiercer crowds had wreaked the worst That bigot rage had dared. I stood for what I deemed the right-- Ye women-slayers say true! Have cheeks that never paled for them, Ere blanched for such as you?

To win the fickle breath of praise, No suppliant knee I bow, And what once Duty pledged to grant, No fear shall disavow. I crave not at your hands for aught But dues that fair lists owe, And bear ye as ye will, ye meet At least a gallant foe.

Yet not alone of these the freight Their parting message bears, But auguries of harvest joys For a seed-time of tears. The reapers of the summer swathes Know well that winter’s rain Must spend its havoc on the soil, Ere smiles the yellow grain.

So time shall its own wreck repair, And they who garner, then, Forget not that the day’s long heats Were borne by other men. Yet not in vain the labour now, Nor scant the meed unsued, The richest guerdon toil can earn-- A people’s gratitude.

They bring the memories of friends Who charm on exile shed: Who lightened weary months of care, And soothed the fevered bed: Bold hearts that never failed my side, In cloud or shine the same: Still true in the fierce fight that raged Round Ilbert’s fateful name.

Come hither, come hither, my trusty Aide, What turns thy cheek so pale? What latest fair thou leav’st behind, Believes thy oft-told tale? If ’tis some fond delusion paints Thy happiness at stake, A heart that holds so many loves, Fear not, will never break.

And she for whom thou sighest now, That fond and faithful she! Already smiles on other Aides, And thinks no more of thee. A simple primrose is to her But that and nothing more: And thou wilt find some newer love Before thou touchest shore.

Another lord my palace treads, My reign is past and o’er: Of me thy shades have seen the last, Rheumatic Barrackpore! Let Simla’s typhoid-laden air Another victim know, And envy his ungrateful race That wail in health below.

Farewell to levees, pageants, routs, To weeks of endless dinners; To balls where I must lead the dance With capering saints and sinners. Farewell to Rajahs and Nabobs: To fetid pan and attar, To coming Russians in Herat And Rent Bills in Calcutta.

Farewell, Societies where meet In concord, whites and blacks: Associations that defend What nobody attacks: The long addresses that pursue A Viceroy where he goes: Farewell to Hunter’s bright romance And Kimberley’s dull prose.

Farewell to Budgets and Reports, To critics in the press, Who nightly weave Arabian tales Of fiction, fact and guess: To hourly fears lest Colvin’s glance Of deficits should tell; Riots, rupees, and zemindars! To one and all farewell!

And all the scathing paper wars Where Secretaries fight To prove how sharp the pens they wield, How smartly they can write: Official minutes, drafts and notes And boxes that they fill, To my successors I bequeath With one unfinished Bill.

With thee, my bark, I’ll swiftly speed Athwart the ocean’s span, Nor care what land thou bear’st me to, So not to Hindustan. Welcome, welcome, ye hastening waves That homeward wing my flight! Welcome the Franchise and the Lords. Distracted land--Good night. H. S. J.