Part 13

WALTHAMSTOW, a village in Essex, situated on the river Lea, contiguous to Low-Layton. Here are three manors, Walthamstow Tony or High-hall, Walthamstow Frances, or Low-hall, which was the manor of the late J. Conyers, Esq; and the manor of the rectory, which once belonged to Trinity abbey in London.

In this parish are several ancient seats, and handsome houses, belonging to persons of distinction, the most remarkable of which was that of Higham-hall, pleasantly situated upon Higham-hills, a rising ground, about half a mile north from Clay street, just above the river Lea, overlooking the counties of Middlesex and Hertfordshire, and commanding a most delightful and extensive prospect. It has been a magnificent and spacious fabric, and in ancient times, when the Lords resided upon their royalties, no place could be more admirably situated than this mansion, erected at the top of the hill of Higham, and having within its view the whole extent of its jurisdiction: but there are now hardly any traces of its ancient grandeur remaining.

The church of Walthamstow, dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, is a large edifice situated upon a hill, and consists of three isles, that on the north side built by Sir George Monox, Knt. Alderman and Lord Mayor of London in the reign of Henry VIII. is called Monox’s isle; that on south side bears the name of Thorne’s isle, from a citizen and merchant taylor of that name, who was probably at the expence of building it. In this church are a great number of monuments.

Before the communion table within the rails, is a piece of marble over the body of Doctor Pierse, Bishop of Bath and Wells.

On leaving the altar there is a monument erected to the memory of Sir Thomas Stanley, Knt. second son to the Earl of Derby, on which there is the effigy of a Lady on her knees. Besides which there are many others. _Additions to Stows Survey._

WALTON’S _court_, Church-yard alley.†

WANDSWORTH, a village in Surry, situated between Battersea and Putney, is said to obtain its name from the river Wandle, which passes through it under a bridge called the _sink of the country_, into the Thames. Here are several handsome houses belonging to the gentry and citizens of London.

WANLEY’S _court_, Black Friars.†

WANSTED, a village in Essex, adjoining to Woodford, and separated from Barking parish by the river Roding. There are in this place and its neighbourhood several fine seats of the nobility, gentry and wealthy citizens; but their lustre is greatly eclipsed by Wansted-house, the magnificent seat of the Earl of Tilney. This noble seat was prepared by Sir Josiah Child, his Lordship’s grandfather, who added to the advantage of a fine situation, a vast number of rows of trees, planted in avenues and vistas leading up to the spot of ground where the old house stood. The late Lord, before he was enobled, laid out the most spacious pieces of ground in gardens, that are to be seen in this part of England. The green house is a very superb building furnished with stoves and artificial places for heat, from an apartment which has a bagnio, and other conveniences, that render it both useful and pleasant.

The house was built since these gardens were finished, and is a magnificent edifice two hundred and sixty feet in length, and seventy in depth, fronted with Portland stone, which, where it is not discoloured by the smoke, as in London, grows whiter and whiter, the longer it is exposed to the open air.

The fore front of the house has a long vista that reaches to the great road at Leighton Stone, and from the back front facing the gardens is an easy descent that leads to the terrace, and affords a most beautiful prospect of the river, which is formed into canals; and beyond it the walks and wildernesses extend to a great distance, rising up the hill, as they sloped downwards before; so that the sight is lost in the woods, and the whole country, as far as the eye can reach, appears one continued garden. _Tour through Great Britain._

The house was built by the late Earl of Tilney and designed by Col. Campbell, and is certainly one of the noblest houses not only near London, but in the kingdom: it consists of two stories, the state and ground story. This latter is the basement, into which you enter by a door in the middle underneath the grand entrance, which is in a noble portico of six Corinthian columns supporting a pediment in which are the arms of this nobleman. To this you ascend by a flight of steps and pass into a magnificent saloon richly decorated with painting and sculpture, through which you pass into the other state rooms which are suitably furnished with pictures, gilding, velvet, tapestry, and other rich hangings. Before this house is an octangular bason which seems equal to the length of the front, here are no wings, though it seems probable it was the original design of the architect. On each side as you approach the house, are two marble statues of Hercules and Venus, with obelisks and vases alternately placed, which makes some attonement for the defect just mentioned. The garden front has no portico, but a pediment with a bas relief supported by six three quarter columns.

The parish church has been lately rebuilt, chiefly by the liberality of Sir Richard Child, Bart. Lord Viscount Castlemain, and in the chancel is a very superb monument for Sir Josiah Child, whose statue in white marble stands pointing downward to the inscription. Underneath lies the figure of Bernard his second son, and on each side sits a woman, vailed, one leaning her head upon her hand, and the other closing her hands and wringing them. There are also several boys in mourning postures, and one expressing the vanity of life by blowing up a bubble.

WAPPING, anciently an hamlet in the parish of St. Mary Whitechapel, situated on the north bank of the Thames, at some distance east from London, but by the increase of buildings is not only rendered a separate and distinct parish, but is entirely joined to this metropolis. The site of this parish is supposed by Maitland to have been formerly within the flux of the river Thames; but when, or by whom it was at first imbanked, is unknown; however, the same author supposes it to have been first taken from the river about the year 1544; though it was not inhabited till after the year 1571.

Mr. Strype, in his edition of Stow’s Survey, gives the following account of the origin of this hamlet. The banks of the river Thames, says he, were frequently damaged by the inundations of that river, particularly about the year 1561, when several breaches were made therein, and these were no sooner repaired, than another happened in 1571, when the commissioners of sewers, after viewing the place, were of opinion, that the most effectual way to secure the bank of the river in those parts, would be to erect houses thereon, upon which the first foundation of the houses of Wapping was laid.

The most remarkable things in this district are St. John’s church, a Presbyterian, Quakers, and French meeting houses; a work-house for the reception of the poor, and two charity schools; one square, a yard for ship-building, and eight pair of stairs or steps to go down to and return from the river, two of which are denominated docks, the one being called Bell-dock, and the other Execution-dock, this is the common place of execution for pirates, who are here hung on a gallows which projects over the river.

WAPPING DOCK _stairs_, Wapping.

WAPPING DOCK _street_, Wapping,

WAPPING _New-stairs_, Wapping.

WAPPING _Old-stairs_, at Wapping.

WAPPING _street_, Hermitage.

WAPPING _wall_, Shadwell.

WAR OFFICE, at Whitehall. This office is under the government of the secretary at war, who has under him a deputy secretary, a first clerk, and twelve other clerks.

WARDENS _court_, Clerkenwell-close.

WARDS, certain districts into which the city and its liberties are divided, each being under the government of an Alderman and his deputy, and represented by several common councilmen.

Maitland supposes that the first division of this city into wards was not merely on account of government, as at present; but that London, like the other cities and towns in this kingdom, was anciently held of the Saxon Kings and nobility in demesne, and their several properties therein being so many sokes or liberties, were under the immediate dominion of their respective Lords, who were the governors or wardens thereof, and from thence arose the Saxon appellation ward, which signifies a quarter or district. This opinion, he adds, is not only corroborated by the wards of Baynard’s Castle, Faringdon, Coleman street, and Basinghall, or Bassishaw’s, still retaining the names of their ancient proprietors, but also by the other wards of the city being alienable, and the purchasers becoming the proprietors thereof, with the additional epithet of Aldermen.

What the number of wards in this city at first was, does not appear upon record; however, by the first account we have of them in the year 1284, we find that they were then twenty-four; but in 1393, Faringdon being much increased in the number of its houses and inhabitants, was divided by parliament into the inward and outward wards, whereby the number was augmented to twenty-five; and in 1550, the citizens having purchased the borough of Southwark of King Edward VI. with the privileges belonging to it, they erected that into a twenty-sixth ward: but the power granted them by charter, not proving sufficient to support their title to it, by excluding the justices of peace for the county of Surry from interfering in the government, it became only a nominal ward: it, however, serves to dignify the senior Alderman, called _The father of the city_, who generally, by his great age, is rendered unable to undergo the fatigue of business, and has therefore this ward, in which there is no business to be done.

The wards into which the city is divided were originally known by other names, though they have long been called by those by which they are at present distinguished. These are, Aldersgate, Aldgate, Bassishaw, Billingsgate, Bishopsgate, Bread street, Bridge ward within, Bridge ward without, Broad street, Candlewick, Castle Baynard, Cheap, Cordwainer, Coleman street, Cornhill, Cripplegate, Dowgate, Faringdon within, Faringdon without, Langbourn, Lime street, Queenhithe, Portsoken, Tower street, Vintry and Walbrook, of each of which we have given a particular account under the several articles. ALDERSGATE WARD, ALDGATE WARD, BASSISHAW WARD, _&c._

Every one of these wards is like a little free state under the government of its own Alderman and his deputy, who is always one of the common council, and is at the same time subject to the Lord Mayor as chief magistrate of the city. The housekeepers of each ward elect their representatives the common council, who join in making by-laws for the government of the city; and each ward has a number of officers and servants, who are solely employed in the business of their respective districts. Of these there are in the several wards, 26 Aldermen, 236 common councilmen, 241 constables, 423 inquestmen, 218 scavengers, who employ rakers to clean the streets, at the expence of 3466_l._ 19_s._ _per annum_; 32 beadles, 672 watch-men, to prevent robberies by night, and 4800 lamps, to illuminate the streets, all maintained at the expence of the wards in which they are placed. In short each ward manages the affairs belonging to it, without the assistance of the rest, and each has a court for the management of its affairs, called a court of wardmote.

_Court of_ WARDMOTE, is thus denominated from the words Ward and Mote, that is, the Ward-court. It is constituted for transacting the business of the ward, for which purpose the Lord Mayor annually issues a precept to the several Aldermen, to hold a court of wardmote on St. Thomas’s day.

WARDOURS _street_, Oxford street.

WARDROBE, or the King’s great wardrobe, in Scotland-yard. This office in ancient times was usually kept near Puddle-wharf, Great Carter lane, in an house built by Sir John Beauchamp, son to Guy de Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, and afterwards sold to King Edward III.

The master of this office is an officer of great antiquity and dignity. High privileges and immunities were conferred on him by Henry VI. which were confirmed by his successors, and King James I. not only enlarged them, but ordained that this office should be a corporation, or body politic, for ever.

This office provides robes for the coronations, marriages, and funerals of the Royal Family; furnishes the court with hangings, cloths of state, carpets, beds, and other necessaries; furnishes houses for Embassadors at their first arrival; cloths of state, and other furniture for the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, and all his Majesty’s Embassadors abroad; provides all robes for foreign Knights of the garter, robes for the Knights of the garter at home, with robes and all other furniture for the officers of the garter; coats for kings, heralds, and pursuivants at arms; robes for the Lords of the Treasury, and Chancellor of the Exchequer, _&c._ livery for the Lord Chamberlain, Grooms of his Majesty’s privy-chamber, officers of his Majesty’s robes; for the two Chief Justices, for all the Barons of the Exchequer, and several officers in those courts; all liveries for his Majesty’s servants, as yeomen of the guard, and wardens of the Tower, trumpeters, kettle-drummers, drummers and fifes; the messengers, and all belonging to the stables, as coachmen, footmen, littermen, postillions and grooms, _&c._ all the King’s coaches, chariots, harnesses, saddles, bits, bridles, _&c._ the King’s watermen, game-keepers, _&c._ as also furniture for the royal yachts, and all rich embroidered tilts, and other furniture for the barges. _Chamberlain’s present state._

Besides the master or keeper of the wardrobe, who has a salary of 800 _l._ a year; and his deputy, who has 200_l._ there are a comptroller and a patent clerk, each of whom has 300_l._ a year, two under clerks and a clerk of the robes and wardrobes; besides many tradesmen and artificers, to the number of about sixty, who are all sworn servants to the King.

Besides the great wardrobe, there is a removing wardrobe, to which there belong a yeoman, who has 230_l._ _per annum_; two grooms, who have 130_l._ a year each, and two pages, each of whom has 100_l._ _per annum_.

There are likewise standing wardrobe-keepers at St. James’s, Windsor Castle, Hampton Court, Kensington, and Somerset house.

WARDROBE _court_, Great Carter lane, so called from the above wardrobe formerly situated there. See the foregoing article.

WARD’S _court_, Goswell street.†

WARE, a town in Hertfordshire, situated on the river Lea, twenty-two miles from London. As this town lies low, and upon a level with the river, it was drowned in the year 1408, by floods from the neighbouring park and other uplands; and sluices and wears being made in its river to preserve it from the like inundations, Camden supposes, that it from thence acquired the name of Ware.

The plenty of water about this town gave rise to that admirable project of cutting a channel from hence, for conveying the New River to London. Here is a very considerable market for corn, and so great is the malt trade here, and in the neighbourhood, that 5000 quarters of malt and other corn are frequently sent in a week to London, by the barges, which return with coals. Here is a school for the younger children of Christ’s hospital in London, a charity school, and six or seven almshouses; and at the crown inn is a great bed much visited by travellers, it being twelve feet square, and is said to hold twenty people.

The heir of the late Thomas Byde, Esq; Lord of the manor, has a house pleasantly situated in the park, with an ascent on every side: and among other improvements, is a vineyard, and a canal cut from the Rib, which turns that stream along the south side of the park.

WAREHOUSE _yard_, 1. Bridge yard: 2. Mincing lane, Fenchurch street.

WARNER’S _square_, Wapping.†

WARNER’S _street_, Coldbath fields.†

WARNER’S _yard_, Mincing lane, Fenchurch street.†

WARNFORD _court_, Throgmorton street, Lothbury.†

WARWICK _court_, 1. Berry street: 2. High Holbourn: 3. Warwick lane. See the next article: 4. Warwick street Charing cross.

WARWICK _lane_, extends from Newgate street to the end of Paternoster row, near Amen corner, and obtained its name, from there being formerly here in Warwick court, the city mansion of the Earls of Warwick. _Maitland._ This lane is now famous for its containing the College of Physicians.

WARWICK _street_, 1. Charing cross: 2. Cockspur street, Pallmall: 3. near Golden square: 4. Mary le Bonne.

WARWICK’S _wharf_, near the Strand.†

WASHERMAID’S _alley_. Five Feet lane.

WASHER’S _yard_, White’s yard, Rosemary lane.

WATCH-HOUSE _bridge yard_, Old Horselydown lane.

WATER BAILIFF, one of the great officers of the city, whose business is to prevent all encroachments on the river Thames; to look after the fishermen for the preservation of the young fry, and to prevent their being destroyed by the use of unlawful nets. For this purpose there are juries in each county, bordering on the river, summoned by the water bailiff to make enquiry of all offences relating to the river and the fish; and to make their presentments accordingly. See the article THAMES.

The water bailiff, has apartments in Cripplegate, and is obliged, on set days in the week to attend the Lord Mayor. _Maitland._

WATERCOCK _alley_, East Smithfield.

WATERGRUEL _row_, Hackney.

WATERHOUSE _lane_, Lower Shadwell.

WATERHOUSE _wharf_, London Bridge.

WATER _lane_, 1. Black Friars: 2. Fleet street: 3. Mill street: 4. Tower street. All these lanes lead to the Thames.

WATERMAN’S _alley_, New street, St. Thomas’s.

WATERMAN’S _court_, Pepper alley, near the south end of London Bridge.

WATERMAN’S _lane_, White Friars.

WATERMEN, a company under the power and command of the Lord Mayor. For the regulation of this fraternity several statutes have been made, particularly on the second and third of Philip and Mary, when it was enacted, among other things, that at the first court of Aldermen in London, next after the first of March, eight overseers should be chosen out of the watermen between Gravesend and Windsor, to keep order among the rest.

That the Lord Mayor and Aldermen of London, and the justices of peace within the counties adjoining to the river Thames, upon complaint of any two of the overseers, or of any waterman’s master, have power, not only to hear and determene any offence committed against this act; but to enlarge any watermen unjustly confined by those overseers; but also to punish the overseers themselves, in case they make an ill use of their power.

That the court of Aldermen should assess the fares of watermen, which being subscribed by two at least of the privy council, should be set up in Guildhall and Westminster Hall, _&c._ and the waterman that takes more than according to the fare so assessed, shall, for every such offence, suffer half a year’s imprisonment, and forfeit 40_s._

That any waterman withdrawing himself in time of pressing, shall suffer a fortnight’s imprisonment, and be prohibited rowing any more on the Thames for a year and a day.

Other regulations were made in the succeeding reigns, particularly in that of William III. when for the better ordering and governing the watermen, wherrymen and lightermen, on the river Thames, it was enacted, that every lighterman, or owner, keeper, or worker of any lighter, or other large craft on the Thames between Gravesend and Windsor, shall be taken to be of the society, or company of wherrymen, watermen and lightermen, who by this act are made a society, or company under the direction of the court of Lord Mayor and Aldermen of this city; who are thereby impowered annually to appoint eight persons of the best character among the watermen, and three persons out of twelve annually nominated by the lightermen; which eleven persons are to be stiled, the overseers and rulers of all the wherrymen, watermen, and lightermen, that shall use or exercise any rowing upon the river of Thames between Gravesend and Windsor; in order to keep good order among the watermen and lightermen.

By this act the rulers and assistants of the company are likewise enabled annually on the first of June, to appoint and direct the watermen of the principal towns, stairs, and plying places between Gravesend and Windsor; and to chuse a free waterman who is a housekeeper, for each of the said places, to be of their assistants, so that they do not exceed the number of sixty, nor be less than that of forty; to which shall be added nine lightermen, who together shall compose the number of assistants of the said company.

These overseers are by the above act impowered to appoint any number of watermen not exceeding forty, to ply and work on Sundays between Vauxhall and Limehouse, at such stairs and plying places, being seventeen in number, besides the two at Westminster, for carrying passengers across the river Thames, for one penny each: the money arising thereby, which annually amounts to about 1450_l._ including those at Westminster, is by each of the working watermen to be paid every Monday morning, to the order of the said rulers; who, after having paid those watermen their proper wages, the surplus is to be applied to the use of the poor of the company. The watermen of Westminster being however exempt from the immediate direction of the watermens company in this affair, they annually appoint their own watermen to ply and work on Sundays, for carrying passengers across the Thames, from and to Westminster bridge and Stangate, and the horse-ferry at Lambeth; which money is applied to the use of the poor watermen, or their widows, of St. Margaret’s parish.

It is also declared in the said act, that if the Lord High Admiral, or the Commissioners of the Admiralty, shall at any time give notice to the watermens company, that there is occasion for a certain number of that company to serve on board the royal navy; then all such persons as shall be duly summoned for that purpose, and shall not appear before the overseers and rulers of that company, shall not only suffer imprisonment for one month; but be rendered incapable of enjoying any privilege belonging to the company for two years.

In the year 1701, an order was made by the court of rulers, auditors and assistants of the company of watermen and lightermen of the river Thames, observing, that several watermen and their apprentices, while they are rowing upon that river, or at their plying places between Gravesend and Windsor often use immodest, obscene, and lewd expressions towards passengers, and to each other, that are offensive to all sober persons, and tend to the corruption of youth, it is ordained, that any waterman, or lighterman, after the sixteenth of October 1701, convicted of using such expressions, shall forfeit 2_s._ 6_d._ for every such offence, and if any waterman or lighterman’s apprentice shall offend in the same manner, his master or mistress shall on his conviction, forfeit the like sum; or in case of their refusal, the offender shall suffer such correction as the rulers of this company shall think fit and necessary. And that the forfeitures, when paid, shall be applied to the use of the poor, aged, decayed, and maimed members of the company, their widows and children.