Part 7
Accordingly at the day appointed, his Majesty came thither on horseback in all the pomp of royalty, attended by the principal nobility and great officers of his court, and was met by the Lord Mayor, Aldermen and Livery in their formalities, who, upon the King’s alighting at the great west door, joined in the procession. When his Majesty entered the church, he kneeled near the brazen pillar, where he prayed for success; and then was received under a canopy, supported by the Dean and Residentiaries, the rest of the Prebends and Dignitaries, with the whole company of singing men advancing before him to the choir, which, on this occasion, was richly adorned with hangings. Here he heard an anthem, and then proceeded to the cross, where Dr. King, Bishop of London, preached a sermon suitable to the occasion, from a text given him by his Majesty, in Psalm cii. 13, 14. and this sermon was afterwards circulated with considerable effect through the whole kingdom. After divine service was ended, his Majesty and the whole court were splendidly entertained at the Bishop’s palace, where a consultation was held, in which it was agreed to issue a commission under the great seal, directed to the principal personages in the kingdom, empowering them to consider of the necessary repairs, and to raise money for carrying them into execution. But tho’ the commissioners afterwards met to prosecute this enquiry, yet, as it was found that the ruin of the Bishop and principal Dignitaries of the cathedral was chiefly aimed at, the whole affair came to nothing.
However, in the succeeding reign another commission was obtained for the same purpose, by the assiduity of Archbishop Laud, which was attended with better success; so that in 1632, Inigo Jones, his Majesty’s Surveyor-general, was ordered to begin there pairs at the south east end, and to bring them along by the south to the west end.
That celebrated architect prosecuted the work with such diligence, that in nine years time, the whole was finished both within and without, except the steeple, which was intended to be entirely taken down, and a magnificent portico of the Corinthian order, was also erected at the west end, at the sole expence of King Charles I. ornamented with the statues of his royal father and himself.
Every thing being now in readiness for erecting the steeple and spire, which were to be of stone, an estimate was made of the money contributed, and that already expended in repairs; whereby it appeared that 101,330_l._ 4_s._ 8_d._ had been received into the chamber of London on this account, and but 35,551_l._ 2_s._ 4_d._ paid out, so that there appeared to be a fund in hand sufficient to erect it in the most magnificent manner: but the flames of civil war soon after breaking out, a period was put to this great design.
The revenues were now seized, the famous Pulpit Cross in the church yard was pulled down; the scaffolding of the steeple was assigned by parliament for the payment of arrears due to the army; the body of the church was converted into saw pits; part of the south cross was suffered to tumble down; the west part of the church was converted into a stable; and the stately new portico into shops for milliners and others, with lodging rooms over them, at the erecting of which, Dr. Heylin observes, the magnificent columns were piteously mangled, being obliged to make way for the ends of beams, which penetrated their centers.
However, at the restoration, a new commission was procured for its immediate reparation, and great sums of money raised by a voluntary contribution; but before any thing material could be accomplished, the dreadful fire of London reduced the whole edifice to little better than a heap of ruins.
After two years fruitless labour in endeavouring to fit up some part of the old fabric for divine worship, it was found to be incapable of any substantial repair. It was therefore resolved to raze the foundations of the old building, and to erect on the same spot a new cathedral that should equal, if not exceed the splendor of the old; for this end letters patent were granted to several Lords spiritual and temporal, authorising them to proceed in the work, and appointing Dr. Christopher Wren, Surveyor-general of all his Majesty’s works, to prepare a model. Contributions came in so extremely fast, that in the first ten years above 126,000_l._ was paid into the chamber of London; a new duty for the carrying on of this work was laid on coals, which at a medium produced 5000_l._ _per annum_, and his Majesty generously contributed 1000_l._ a year, towards carrying on the work.
Dr. Wren, afterwards Sir Christopher, was now called upon to produce his designs; he had before drawn several, in order to discover what would be most acceptable to the general taste; and finding that persons of all degrees declared for magnificence and grandeur, he formed a very noble one, conformable to the best style of the Greek and Roman architecture, and having caused a large model to be made of it in wood, with all its ornaments, he presented it to his Majesty; but the Bishops not approving of it, as not enough of a cathedral fashion, the Surveyor was ordered to amend it, upon which he produced the scheme of the present structure, which was honoured with his Majesty’s approbation. The first design, however, which was only of the Corinthian order, like St. Peter’s at Rome, the Surveyor set a higher value upon than on any other he ever drew, and as the author of his life observes, would have put it in execution with more cheerfulness, than that which we now see erected. This curious model is still preserved in the cathedral, and may be seen at a small expence.
In the year 1675, Dr. Wren began to prosecute the work; the pulling down the old walls, which were eighty feet high, and clearing the rubbish, had cost many of the labourers their lives; and this put him upon contriving to facilitate its execution by art. The first project he tried was with gunpowder; for on their coming to the tower of the steeple, the men absolutely refused to work upon it; for its height struck the most hardy of them with terror. He therefore caused a hole of about four feet wide to be dug in the foundation of the north west pillar, it being supported by four pillars each fourteen feet diameter, and then with tools made on purpose, wrought a hole two feet square into the center of the pillar, in which he placed a little deal box, containing only eighteen pounds of powder. A cane was fixed to the box with a match, and the hole closed up again with as much strength as possible.
Nothing now remained but to set fire to the train, and the Surveyor was exceeding curious to observe the effect of the explosion, which indeed was wonderful; for this small quantity of powder not only lifted up the whole angle of the tower, with two arches that rested upon it; but also the two adjoining arches of the isles, and all above them; and this it seemed to do somewhat leisurely, cracking the walls to the top, and lifting up visibly the whole weight about nine inches, which suddenly tumbling to its center, again caused an enormous heap of ruin, without scattering, and it was half a minute before this huge mountain opened in two or three places and emitted smoke. The shock of so great a weight from a height of two hundred feet, alarmed the inhabitants round about with the terrible apprehensions of an earthquake.
A second trial of the same kind, was made by a person appointed by Dr. Wren, who being too wise in his own conceit, disobeyed the orders he had received, put in a greater quantity of powder, and omitted to take the same care in closing up the hole, or digging to the foundation; but though this second trial had the desired effect, yet one stone was shot as from the mouth of a cannon to the opposite side of the church yard, and entered a private room where some women were at work; but no other damage was done, besides spreading a panic among the neighbours, who instantly made application above against the farther use of gunpowder, and orders were issued from the council board accordingly.
The Surveyor being now reduced to the necessity of making new experiments, resolved to try the battering ram of the ancients, and therefore caused a strong mast forty feet long to be shod with iron at the biggest end, and fortified every way with bars and ferrels, and having caused it to be suspended set it to work. Thirty men were employed in vibrating this machine, who beat in one place against the wall a whole day without any visible effect. He however bid them not despair, but try what another day would produce; and on the second day the wall was perceived to tremble at the top, and in a few hours it fell to the ground.
In clearing the foundation, he found that the north side had been anciently a great burying place; for under the graves of these latter ages, he found in a row the graves of the Saxons, who cased their dead in chalk stones; tho’ persons of great eminence were buried in stone coffins: below these were the graves of the ancient Britons, as was manifest from the great number of ivory and wooden pins found among the mouldered dust; for it was their method only to pin the corpse in woollen shrouds, and lay them in the ground, and this covering being consumed, the ivory and wooden pins remained entire.
At a still greater depth he discovered a great number of Roman potsheards, urns, and dishes, sound, and of a beautiful red like our sealing wax; on the bottoms of some of them were inscriptions, which denoted their having been drinking vessels; and on others, which resembled our modern sallad dishes, beautifully made and curiously wrought, was the inscription DZ. PRIMANI. and on others, those of PATRICI. QUINTIMANI. VICTOR. IANUS. RECINIO, &c. The pots and several glass vessels were of a murrey colour; and others resembling urns, were beautifully embellished on the outsides with raised work, representing grey hounds, stags, hares, and rose trees. Others were of a cinnamon colour, in the form of an urn, and tho’ a little faded, appeared as if they had been gilt. Some resembling juggs formed an hexagon, and were curiously indented and adorned with a variety of figures in basso relievo.
The red vessels appeared to have been the most honourable; for on them were inscribed the names of their deities, heroes, and judges; and the matter of which these vessels were made, was of such an excellent composition, as to vie with polished metal in beauty.
There were also discovered several brass coins, which by their long continuance in the earth were become a prey to time; but some of them that were in a more favourable soil, were so well preserved as to discover in whose reign they were coined: on one of them was Adrian’s head, with a galley under oars on the reverse; and on others, the heads of Romulus and Remus, Claudius and Constantine.
At a somewhat smaller depth were discovered a number of _lapilli_ or _tesselæ_, of various sorts of marble, viz. Egyptian, Porphyry, Jasper, &c. in the form of dice, which were used by the Romans in paving the _prætorium_, or General’s tent. _Conyers M. S. in the Sloanian library, in the Museum._
On searching for the natural ground, Dr. Wren perceived that the foundation of the old church stood upon a layer of very close and hard pot earth, on the north side about six feet deep, but gradually thinning towards the south, till on the declivity of the hill, it was scarce four feet; yet he concluded that the same ground which had borne so weighty a building before, might reasonably be trusted again. However, boring beneath this, he found a stratum of loose sand; and lower still, at low water mark, water and sand mixed with periwinkles and other sea shells; under this, a hard beach; and below all the natural bed of clay that extends far and wide, under the city, country, and river.
The foundations appeared to be those originally laid, consisting of Kentish rubble stone, artfully worked and consolidated with exceeding hard mortar, after the Roman manner, much excelling what he found in the superstructure. What induced him to change the scite of the church, and eraze the old foundations which were so firm, was the desire of giving the new structure a more free and graceful aspect; yet after all, he found himself too much confined; and unable to bring his front to lie exactly from Ludgate. However, in his progress he met with one misfortune that made him almost repent of the alteration he had made; he began the foundation from the west to the east, and then extending his line to the north east, where he expected no interruption, he fell upon a pit, where the hard crust of pot earth, already mentioned, had been taken away, and to his unspeakable mortification, filled up with rubbish: he wanted but six or seven feet to complete his design, yet there was no other remedy but digging thro’ the sand, and building from the solid earth, that was at least forty feet deep. He therefore sunk a pit eighteen feet wide, tho’ he wanted at most but seven, thro’ all the strata, that has been already mentioned, and laid the foundations of a square pier of solid good masonry, which he carried up till he came within fifteen feet of the present surface; and then turned a short arch under ground to the level of the stratum of hard pot-earth, upon which arch the north east coin of the choir now stands.
This difficulty being surmounted, and the foundations laid, he for several reasons made choice of Portland stone for the superstructure; but chiefly as the largest scantlings were to be procured from thence: however, as these could not be depended upon for columns exceeding four feet in diameter, this determined this great architect to make choice of two orders instead of one, and an Attic story, as at St. Peter’s at Rome, in order to preserve the just proportions of his cornice, otherwise the edifice must have fallen short of its intended height. Bramante in building St. Peter’s, though he had the quarries of Tivoli at hand, where he could have blocks large enough for his columns of nine feet diameter, yet for want of stones of suitable dimensions, was obliged to diminish the proportions of the proper members of his cornice; a fault against which Dr. Wren resolved to guard. On these principles he therefore proceeded, in raising the present magnificent edifice.
The general form of St. Paul’s cathedral is a long cross: the walls are wrought in rustic, and strengthened as well as adorned by two rows of coupled pilasters, one over the other; the lower Corinthian, and the upper Composite. The spaces between the arches of the windows, and the architrave of the lower order, are filled with a great variety of curious enrichments, as are those above.
The west front is graced with a most magnificent portico, a noble pediment, and two stately turrets, and when one advances towards the church from Ludgate, the elegant construction of this front, the fine turrets over each corner, and the vast dome behind, fill the mind with a pleasing astonishment.
At this end, there is a noble flight of steps of black marble, that extend the whole length of the portico, which consists of twelve lofty Corinthian columns below, and eight of the Composite order above; these are all coupled and fluted. The upper series supports a noble pediment crowned with its acroteria. In this pediment is a very elegant representation in bas relief, of the conversion of St. Paul, which was executed by Mr. Bird, an artist, who, by this piece, has deserved to have his name transmitted to posterity. Nothing could have been conceived more difficult to represent in bas relief than this conversion; the most striking object being naturally the irradiation of light, but even this is well expressed, and the figures are excellently performed. The magnificent figure of St. Paul, also on the apex of the pediment, with St. Peter on his right and St. James on his left, have a fine effect. The four Evangelists with their proper emblems on the front of the towers, are also very judiciously disposed, and well executed: St. Matthew is distinguished by an angel: St. Mark, by a lion; St. Luke, by an ox; and St. John, by an eagle.
To the north portico, there is an ascent by twelve circular steps of black marble; and its dome is supported by six large Corinthian columns, forty-eight inches in diameter. Upon the dome is a large and well proportioned urn, finely ornamented with festoons; and over this is a pediment supported by pilasters in the wall, in the face of which is the royal arms, with the regalia, supported by angels. And lest this view of the cathedral should appear void of sufficient ornament, the statues of five of the Apostles are placed on the top at proper distances.
The south portico answers to the north, and is placed directly opposite to it. This, like the other, is a dome supported by six noble Corinthian columns: but, as the ground is considerably lower on this, than on the other side of the church, the ascent is by a flight of twenty-five steps. This portico has also a pediment above, in which is a phœnix rising out of the flames with the motto RESURGAM underneath it, as an emblem of the rebuilding the church after the fire. This device had perhaps its origin from an incident, which happened at the beginning of the work, and was particularly remarked by the architect as a favourable omen. When Dr. Wren himself had set out upon the place the dimensions of the building, and fixed upon the center of the great dome, a common labourer was ordered to bring him a flat stone, the first he found among the rubbish, to leave as a mark of direction to the masons; the stone which the fellow brought for this purpose, happened to be a piece of a grave stone with nothing remaining of the inscription but this single word in large capitals, RESURGAM; a circumstance which Dr. Wren never forgot. On this side of the building are likewise five statues, which take their situation from that of St. Andrew on the apex of the last mentioned pediment.
At the cast end of the church is a sweep or circular projection for the altar, finely ornamented with the orders, and with sculpture, particularly a noble piece in honour of his Majesty King William III.
The dome which rises in the center of the whole, appears extremely grand. Twenty feet above the roof of the church is a circular range of thirty-two columns, with niches placed exactly against others within. These are terminated by their entablature, which supports a handsome gallery adorned with a balustrade. Above these columns is a range of pilasters, with windows between; and from the entablature of these the diameter decreases very considerably; and two feet above that it is again contracted. From this part the external sweep of the dome begins, and the arches meet at fifty-two feet above. On the summit of the dome is an elegant balcony; and from its center rises the lanthorn adorned with Corinthian columns; and the whole is terminated by a ball, from which rises a cross, both elegantly gilt. These parts, which appear from below of a very moderate size, are extremely large.
This vast and noble fabric, which is 2292 feet in circumference, and 340 feet in height to the top of the cross, is surrounded at a proper distance by a dwarf stone wall, on which is placed the most magnificent balustrade of cast iron perhaps in the universe, of about five feet six inches in height, exclusive of the wall. In this stately enclosure are seven beautiful iron gates, which, together with the banisters, in number about 2500, weigh two hundred tons and eighty-one pounds, which having cost 6_d._ per pound, the whole, with other charges, amounted to 11,202_l._ and 6_d._
In the area of the grand west front, on a pedestal of excellent workmanship, stands a statue of Queen Anne, formed of white marble with proper decorations. The figures on the base represent Britannia with her spear; Gallia, with a crown in her lap; Hibernia, with her harp; and America with her bow. These, and the colossal statues with which the church is adorned, were all done by the ingenious Mr. Hill, who was chiefly employed in the decorations.
The north east part of the church yard is conferred by the Dean and Chapter upon the inhabitants of St. Faith’s parish, which is united to St. Austin’s, for the interment of their dead; as is also the south east part of the cemetery, with a vault therein, granted to St. Gregory’s parish for the same use.
On ascending the steps at the west end, we find three doors ornamented on the top with bas relief; the middle door, which is by far the largest, is cased with white marble, and over it is a fine piece of basso relievo, in which St. Paul is represented preaching to the Bereans. On entering this door, on the inside of which hang the colours taken from the French at Louisbourg in 1758, the mind is struck by the nobleness of the vista; an arcade supported by lofty and massy pillars on each hand, divide the church into the body and two isles, and the view is terminated by the altar at the extremity of the choir. The above pillars are adorned with columns and pilasters of the Corinthian and Composite orders, and the arches of the roof enriched with shields, festoons, chaplets and other ornaments.
In the isle on one hand is the consistory, and opposite to it on the other is the morning prayer chapel, where divine service is performed every morning early, Sunday excepted: each of these have a very beautiful screen of carved wainscot, that is admired by the best judges, and each are adorned with twelve columns, arched pediments and the royal arms, finely decorated.
On proceeding forward, you come to the large cross isle between the north and south porticos; over which is the cupola. Here you have a view of the whispering gallery, of the paintings above it, and the concave, which fills the mind with surprise and pleasure. Under its center is fixed in the floor a brass plate, round which the pavement is beautifully variegated; but the figures into which it is formed can no where be so well seen as from the whispering gallery.
You have now a full view of the organ, richly ornamented with carved work, with the entrance to the choir directly under it. The two isles on the sides of the choir, as well as the choir itself, are here enclosed with very fine iron rails and gates.
The organ gallery is supported by eight Corinthian columns of blue and white marble, and the choir has on each side thirty stalls, besides the Bishop’s throne on the south side, and the Lord Mayor’s on the north. The carving of the beautiful range of stalls as well as that of the organ, is much admired.
Here the reader’s desk, which is at some distance from the pulpit, is an enclosure of very fine brass rails gilt, in which is a gilt brass pillar supporting an eagle of brass gilt, which holds the book on his back and expanded wings.
The altar piece is adorned with four noble fluted pilasters painted and veined with gold in imitation of lapis lazuli, and their capitals are double gilt. In the intercolumniations are twenty-one pannels of figured crimson velvet, and above them six windows, in two series.
The floor of the choir, and indeed of the whole church, is paved with marble: but within the rails of the altar with porphyry, polished and laid in several geometrical figures.