London and Its Environs Described, vol. 5 (of 6) Containing an Account of Whatever is Most Remarkable for Grandeur, Elegance, Curiosity or Use, in the City and in the Country Twenty Miles Round It

Part 3

Chapter 33,854 wordsPublic domain

In this river there are forty three sluices, and over it two hundred and fifteen bridges. On its approaching the reservoir, called New River Head, there are several small houses erected at a considerable distance from each other on its banks, into which the water runs and is conveyed by pipes to the nearer and more easterly parts of this metropolis. On its entering the above reservoir, it is there ingulphed by fifty-eight main pipes, each of seven inches bore; and here also an engine worked by horses, throws a great quantity of water up to another reservoir, situated on much higher ground, from which the water runs in pipes to supply the highest ground in the city, and its liberties. Many years ago 30,000 houses were thus supplied by this water, and since that time several main pipes have been laid to carry it into the liberties of Westminster.

This corporation consists of a Governor, Deputy Governor, Treasurer, and twenty-six Directors, these twenty-nine are the proprietors of the first thirty-six shares: for though the Crown’s moiety is in private hands, yet they have no share in the management. The above Governor and Directors keep their office at a coffee-house in Ludgate street where every Thursday they hold a board for appointing of officers, granting of leases, and redressing of grievances.

The officers and servants belonging to the company are, a clerk and his assistant; a surveyor and his deputy; fourteen collectors, who, after deducting 5_l._ _per cent._ for collecting the company’s rents, pay their money every Thursday to the treasurer; fourteen walksmen, who have their several walks along the river, to prevent throwing into it filth, or infectious matter; sixteen turncocks; twelve paviours; twenty borers of pipes; besides horse engines for boring of others, together with a great number of inferior servants and labourers.

NEW ROUND _court_, In the Strand.

NEW _square_, 1. Lincoln’s Inn. 2. In the Minories. 3. New street, St. Thomas’s, Southwark.

NEW _street_, 1. Bishopsgate street. 2. Cambridge street. 3. Cloth Fair, Smithfield. 4. Dyot street, St. Giles’s. 5. Horselydown. 6. Fore street, Lambeth. 7. Fox’s lane, Shadwell. 8. Lower Shadwell. 9. St. Martin’s lane, Charing Cross. 10. Old street. 11. Queen street, in the Mint. 12. Shoe lane, Fleet street. 13. Shoemaker row, Black Friars. 14. Spring Gardens, Charing Cross. 15. St. Thomas’s Southwark. 16. Threadneedle street. 17. Upper Shadwell.

NEW STREET _hill_, Shoe lane, Fleet street.

NEW STREET _square_, near Shoe lane.

NEW STREET SQUARE _lane_, Shoe lane.

NEW SWAN _yard_, Rag street.

NEW THAMES _street_, Bank side, Southwark.

NEW THAMES STREET _stairs_, Bank side.

NEWTON’S _court_, Vine street.†

NEWTON _street_, High Holborn.†

NEW TOTHILL _street_, Near Westminster Abbey.

NEW TURNSTILE _alley_, Holborn.

NEW TURVILLE _street_, Virginia row, Shoreditch.†

NEW TYLER _street_, Carnaby street.†

NEW _way_, 1. In the Maze, Tooley street. 2. Orchard street.

NEW _well_, Shad Thames, Horselydown.

NEW _yard_, Fenchurch street.

NEW YORK _street_, Skinners street, Shoreditch.

_St._ NICHOLAS ACONS, a church which stood on the west side of Nicholas lane, in Langbourn ward, owed its name to its dedication to St. Nicholas, a citizen of Lycia in Asia Minor, who, though only a private housekeeper, was, from the caprice of the electors, chosen Bishop of Myræa; for the Bishops and Priests interested in the election not agreeing about the choice, came to an unanimous resolution that whatever person should first enter the church the next day, should be elected Bishop: when Nicholas repairing early next morning, to perform his devotions, being the first that entered, was chosen Bishop, pursuant to the above resolution; in which office his deportment was such, as to procure him a place among the class of saints.

The church being destroyed with most of the other public buildings by the fire of London, and not rebuilt, the parish was annexed to the church of St. Edmund the King. _Newc. Repert. Eccles._

_St._ NICHOLAS _alley_, St. Nicholas lane, Lombard street.

_St._ NICHOLAS COLE ABBEY, on the south side of Old Fish street, in Queenhithe ward, is thus denominated from its dedication to the above-mentioned saint, but the reason of the additional epithet is not known, some conjecturing that it is a corruption of Golden Abbey, and others that it is derived from Cold Abbey, or Coldbey, from its cold or bleak situation. It is known that there was a church in the same place before the year 1383: but the last structure being consumed in the great conflagration in 1666, the present church was built in its place, and the parish of St. Nicholas Olave united to it.

This edifice consists of a plain body well enlightened by a single range of windows decently ornamented. It is sixty-three feet long, and forty-three broad; thirty-six feet high to the roof, and an hundred thirty-five to the top of the spire. The tower is plain, but strengthened with rustic at the corners; and the spire, which is of the massy kind, has a gallery, and many openings.

The advowson of this church, which was anciently in the Dean and Chapter of St. Martin’s le Grand, is now in the Crown. The Rector, besides his other profits, receives 130_l._ a year in lieu of tithes. _Maitland._

_St._ NICHOLAS _lane_, extends from Lombard street to Canon street.

_St._ NICHOLAS SHAMBLES, a church formerly situated at the corner of Butcher hall lane, took its additional epithet from the flesh market, which before the fire of London extended along Newgate street. This church with its ornaments was given by King Henry VIII. to the Mayor and Commonalty of the city, towards the maintenance of the new parish church then to be erected in the Grey Friars. _Maitland._

NICHOLAS’S ALMSHOUSE, in Monkwell street, was founded in the year 1575, by Sir Ambrose Nicholas, citizen and salter, for the accommodation of twelve widows of his company, to each of whom he allowed 1_s._ _per_ week, and twenty-four bushels of coals a year. This charity he committed in trust to the company of Salters; the house was however destroyed in the great conflagration in 1666; but was soon after rebuilt, and each widow allowed two neat rooms and a garret. _Maitland._

NICOLL’S _alley_, Cable street, Rag Fair, Rosemary lane.†

NICOLL’S _court_, 1. Rosemary lane, Little Tower hill.† 2. Sharp’s alley.†

NICOLL’S _street_, Shoreditch.†

NIGHTINGALE _lane_, 1. East Smithfield.† 2. Fore street, Limehouse.†

NIGHTINGALE _turning_, at the Hermitage, Wapping.†

NIPPARD’S _court_, Baldwin’s Gardens.†

NIXON’S _court_, Barnaby street, Southwark.†

NIXON’S _square_, a very mean little square, by Jewin street.†

NOAH’S ARK _alley_, Narrow street, Ratcliff.* Noble street, 1. Foster lane, Cheapside.† 2. Goswell street, by Aldersgate bars.†

NOEL _street_, Burlington Gardens.†

NONESUCH, in Surry, is situated near Sutton and Epsom, and was formerly called Cuddington, till a most magnificent palace was erected there, by Henry VIII. which obtained the name of Nonesuch from its unparallelled beauty. The learned Hentzner, in his _Itinerarium_, speaking of this palace, says, that it was chosen for his pleasure and retirement, and built by him with an excess of magnificence and elegance even to ostentation: one would imagine every thing that architecture can perform to have been employed in this one work: there are every where so many statues that seem to breathe, so many miracles of consummate art, so many casts that rival even the perfection of Roman antiquity, that it may well claim and justify its name of Nonesuch.

The palace itself is so encompassed with parks full of deer, delightful gardens, groves ornamented with trellis work, cabinets of verdure, and walks so embrowned by trees, that it seems to be a place pitched upon by Pleasure herself, to dwell in along with Health.

In the pleasure and artificial gardens are many columns and pyramids of marble, two fountains that spout water one round the other, like a pyramid, upon which are perched small birds that stream water out of their bills: in the grove of Diana is a very agreeable fountain, with Actæon turned into a stag, as he was sprinkled by the goddess and her nymphs, with inscriptions.

There is besides another pyramid of marble full of concealed pipes, which spirt upon all who come within their reach.

Such was this palace and gardens when Hentzner wrote, but King Charles II. gave it to the Duchess of Cleveland, who pulled it down and sold the materials; wherewith a new house was built by the Earl of Berkley, which was the seat of the late Earl of Guildford, and is now called Durdans; and Nonesuch, though it gives the title of Baron to the Duke of Cleveland, is now only a farm house.

NORFOLK _street_, in the Strand. The bishop of Bath’s palace in the Strand, was afterwards, says Maitland, the Earl of Arundel’s, whence Arundel and Norfolk streets had their names.

NORMAN’S _court_, Cable street.†

NORRIS’S _street_, 1. In the Haymarket.† 2. Spitalfields.†

NORRIS’S _wharf_, Millbank, Westminster Horse ferry.

NORRISON’S _court_, near Stangate.†

NORTH AUDLEY _street_, Grosvenor square.

NORTH END, a pleasant village near Hammersmith, where are the handsome house and finely disposed gardens of the Earl of Tilney, and of the late Sir John Stanley.

NORTH _court_, South street.

NORTHALL, a village on the north side of Enfield Chace, three miles north of High Barnet, is said to be corruptly so called from Northaw, or the North Grove, here being a wood that belonged to the monastery of St. Alban’s. A noble house was built here in the reign of Queen Elizabeth by Henry Dudley Earl of Warwick; after whose death it came to several possessors, and being sold to William Leman, descended to Sir William Leman his grandson, who has given the rent of the wells to the poor of the parish. King James I. also gave 40_l._ a year to the town in lieu of the ground he laid into his park, at Theobald’s out of the common.

NORTH _passage_, Wellclose square.

NORTH PRESCOT _alley_, St. John’s street, Smithfield.

NORTH _row_, North Audley street.

NORTH _street_, 1. Lamb street, Spitalfields. 2. Poplar. 3. Smith Square, Westminster.

NORTHAMPTON _street_, Wood’s close, St. John street.

NORTHUMBERLAND _alley_, Fenchurch street.

NORTHUMBERLAND _court_, 1. Southampton buildings, Chancery lane. 2. In the strand.

NORTHUMBERLAND HOUSE, derives its name from the title of the ancient and noble family, in whose possession it has been above 100 years. It is the town residence of the Right Honourable the Earl and Countess of Northumberland, and one of the largest and most magnificent houses in London. It was originally built very early in the reign of James I. by Henry Howard Earl of Northampton; and it is reasonable to infer from some letters discovered in the front when it was lately rebuilt, that one Miles Glover was the architect.

At first it consisted only of three sides of a square; one of which faced the street near Charing Cross, and the other two extended towards the Thames. The entrance was then, as it is now, thro’ a spacious arched gateway for coaches in the middle of the street front; and, what is remarkable, the principal apartments were in the third or highest story. During the life of the aforesaid Lord, it was called Northampton House, after his death it became the property of his near relation the Earl of Suffolk; in whose time it does not appear to have undergone any change except in name; for it was thereupon called Suffolk House.

In the reign of Charles I. Algernon Earl Of Northumberland, the Lord High Admiral of England, married Lord Suffolk’s daughter, and about the year 1642, became the proprietor of this house; from which time it has been well known by the name it now bears. To prevent mistakes, we beg leave to observe, that the Northumberland House, which is often mentioned in history before this period, stood in Aldersgate ward in the city, and was formerly, what this house is at present, the town seat of the Earls of Northumberland. But to return.

When London became more populous, and the buildings about Charing Cross daily increased, ‘twas found inconvenient to live in the apartments, which had been built by Lord Northampton; because they were greatly disturbed by the hurry and noise of passengers and coaches in the street. To avoid therefore that inconvenience, the aforesaid Earl of Northumberland compleated the square by building the fourth side; which being parallel and opposite to that next the street, is placed at a sufficient distance from the aforesaid disturbances, and almost enjoys all the advantages of retirement and a country seat. Inigo Jones appears to have been the architect employed for that purpose, and the front of the new side, which he built facing the garden, is very grand and stately, as the reader may see from the perspective view of it, annexed to this account.

Perhaps it will please some of our readers to be informed, that Lord Northumberland received General Monk, and had a conference with him and several of the leading men in the nation in one of these apartments. At which meeting the King’s restoration was for the first time proposed in direct terms, as a measure absolutely necessary to the peace of the kingdom.

In the year 1682, Charles Duke of Somerset married the Lady Elizabeth Percy, the daughter and heiress of Josceline Earl of Northumberland, and by that means became possessed of this house. Upon his death it descended to his son Algernon, by the aforesaid Lady, who succeeded to the title and a very large estate in 1748. His Grace immediately began to make alterations in some of the apartments, and to rebuild the front next the street; but, dying the year after, he did not live sufficient time to finish either.

The house in that condition, descended to his son-in-law and daughter, the present Earl and Countess of Northumberland; and it is in a great measure owing to the improvements, made by them at a very great expence and in a very fine taste, that Northumberland House is become a building so complete and stately, as to be generally admired for its elegance and grandeur.

The street was immediately made wider, and the front next to it compleated, as it appears in the print prefixed to this description. The four sides of the court were new faced with Portland stone, and finished in the Roman stile of architecture, so as to form as it were four stately fronts. Two new wings were also added, being above 100 feet in length, and extending from the garden front, towards the Thames. By means of these additions Northumberland House is more than twice as large as it was, when first built by Lord Northampton.

The entrance into it is on the side of the court opposite to the great gateway; the vestibule is about 82 feet long, and more than 12 feet broad, being properly ornamented with columns of the Doric order. Each end of it communicates with a stair case, leading to the principal apartments, which face the garden and the Thames. They consist of several spacious rooms, fitted up in the most elegant manner. The ceilings are embellished with copies of antique paintings, or fine ornaments of stucco, richly gilt. The chimney pieces consist of statuary and other curious marble, carved and finished in the most correct taste. The rooms are hung either with beautiful tapestry or the richest damasks, and magnificently furnished with large glasses, chairs, settees, marble tables, &c. with frames of the most exquisite workmanship, and richly gilt. They also contain a great variety of landscapes, history pieces, and portraits, painted by Titian and the most eminent masters. In some of the rooms may be seen large chests, embellished with old genuine japan; which being great rarities, are almost invaluable.

The company passes thro’ many of these apartments to the left wing, which forms a state gallery or ball room, admirable in every respect, whether we consider the dimensions, the taste, and masterly manner in which it is finished, or the elegant magnificence of the furniture.

It is 106 feet long, the breadth being a fourth part of the length, and the height equal to the diagonal of the square of the breadth; which proportions are esteemed to be the most proper for a gallery. The ceiling is coved and ornamented with figures and festoons richly gilt. To avoid repetitions, we beg leave once for all to say the same of the other decorations and frames of the furniture; for there is such a variety of gilding in the different parts of the gallery, that it would be endless to mention it in every particular description. But to proceed, the flat part of the ceiling is divided into five compartments, ornamented with fine imitations of some antique figures, as, a flying Fame blowing a trumpet; a Diana; a triumphal car drawn by two horses; a Flora; and a Victory holding out a laurel wreath. The entablature is Corinthian, and of most exquisite workmanship. The light is admitted thro’ nine windows in the side next the garden, being equidistant from one another, and in the same horizontal direction. Above these is another row of windows, which, tho’ not visible in the room, are so artfully placed as to throw a proper quantity of light over the cornice, so that the highest parts of the room are as much enlightened as the lowest, and the pictures on the opposite side are free from that confused glare, which would arise from a less judicious disposition. In the spaces between the windows, there are tables of antique marble, and stools covered with crimson damask, placed alternately. The piers are also ornamented with large square and oval glasses, arranged in the aforesaid order; the frames of which form a beautiful variety of foliage to adorn the higher parts quite up to the entablature.

Let us now pass over to the opposite side, which is divided into three large spaces by two chimney pieces made of statuary marble, with cornices supported by figures of Phrygian captives, copied from those in the Capitol at Rome, and executed in a very masterly manner. The finishing above the chimney pieces consists of terms, sphinxes, festoons, &c. and within the spaces formed by these ornaments are placed whole length portraits of the Earl and Countess of Northumberland in their robes.

That the three grand divisions of this side might be furnished in an elegant manner, his Lordship employed the most eminent masters to copy five of the most admired paintings in Italy, which are placed as follows: in the middle and largest division is Raphael’s celebrated school of Athens, copied from the original in the Vatican by Raphael Mengs. In the two other divisions on the right and left hand side of the former are placed the feast and council of the Gods, which were also painted by Raphael, and copied by Pompeio Battoni from the originals in the Little Farnese. The two ends of the gallery are ornamented with the triumphal procession of Bacchus and Ariadne (originally painted by Annibal Caracci in the Farnese palace) and Guido’s Aurora. The former was copied by Felice Costansi, and the latter by Masuccio, a scholar of Carlo Maratti, from the original in the Villa Rospigliosi. All these pictures are very large, being exactly of the same dimensions with the originals, and are copied in a very masterly manner. We heartily wish his Lordship’s taste in procuring them may incite those, who can afford it, to follow the example, and purchase copies of such paintings as are universally admired; for by these means not only private curiosity would be gratified, but the public taste also greatly improved.

Under the aforesaid pictures are placed large sophas, covered with crimson damask and richly ornamented. This gallery is lighted up for the reception of company in the evenings, by means of four glass lustres, consisting in all of as many branches as will receive 100 large wax candles, and suspended from the ceiling by long chains, magnificently gilt. We shall close our imperfect account of this stately gallery, by wishing that it was in the power of words to describe the fine effects, which arise from a view of its numberless beauties.

Besides the apartments already mentioned, there are above 140 rooms more in this house; which, being so numerous, and chiefly appropriated to the private uses of the family, cannot be particularly described in a work of this nature; however, we must add, that Lord and Lady Northumberland’s apartments are very commodious and elegantly furnished; her Ladyship’s closet is even a repository of curiosities, and, amongst other valuable things, contains so fine a collection of pictures, as to afford a most pleasing and almost endless entertainment to a connoisseur. The two libraries also consist of a great variety of books on the most useful and curious subjects, collected with judgement.

We have hitherto endeavoured to give some idea of the gradual improvements, by which Northumberland House acquired its present grandeur and magnificence; but we cannot take our leave of it without conducting, as it were, the reader into the garden, where he may enjoy the quiet and tranquility of the country amidst the noise and distraction of the town, and contrast the simple beauties of nature, with the stately productions of art.

It lies between the house and the Thames, and forms a pleasing piece of scenery before the principal apartments; for it consists of a fine lawn surrounded with a neat gravel walk, and bounded next the walls by a border of curious flowers, shrubs and ever-greens. At the end of the garden beyond the wall, were a few buildings which his Lordship ordered to be taken down, to open a larger prospect across the Thames to Southwark, and into the country behind it. And, as the horizon is finely diversified with hills, which when every thing is compleated, will appear as it were in the back scene, the view will command a very beautiful landscape.

NORTHUMBERLAND _place_, Fenchurch street.

NORTHUMBERLAND _street_, a handsome street now building in the Strand, by Northumberland House, down to the Thames, the houses in Hartshorn alley being pulled down for that purpose.

NORTON FALGATE, a street which extends from the end of Bishopsgate without to Shoreditch.

NORWICH _court_, East Smithfield.

NOTTINGHAM _court_, Castle street, Long Acre.

NOTTINGHAM _street_, Plumtree street.

NUN’S _court_, 1. Coleman street. 2. New Gravel lane.

NUTKIN’S _corner_, Rotherhith wall.†

NUTMAKER’S _rents_, New Gravel lane, Shadwell.†

O.

OAKEY _street_, Thames street.†

OAKEY’S _court_, Hare street, Brick lane, Spitalfields.†

OAKLEY’S _yard_, Town ditch, by Christ’s hospital.†

OAR _street_, Gravel lane, near Falcon stairs.

OAT _lane_, Noble street, Foster lane, Cheapside.

OATLANDS, adjoining to Weybridge in Surry, is the seat of the Earl of Lincoln. The park is about four miles round. The house is situated about the middle of the terrace, whose majestic grandeur, and the beautiful landscape which it commands, words cannot describe, nor the pencil delineate so as to give an adequate idea of this fine scene.

The serpentine river which you look down upon from the terrace, though artificial, appears as beautiful as it could do were it natural; and a stranger who did not know the place would conclude it to be the Thames, in which opinion he would be confirmed by the view of Walton bridge over that river, which by a happy contrivance is made to look like a bridge over it, and closes the prospect that way finely.

OATMEAL _yard_, Barnaby street, Southwark.

OCEAN _street_, Stepney.

OF _alley_, York buildings. See the article YORK _buildings_.