Part 1

LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS DESCRIBED. VOL. IV.

LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS DESCRIBED.

CONTAINING

An Account of whatever is most remarkable for GRANDEUR, ELEGANCE, CURIOSITY or USE,

In the CITY and in the COUNTRY Twenty Miles round it.

COMPREHENDING ALSO

Whatever is most material in the History and Antiquities of this great Metropolis.

Decorated and illustrated with a great Number of Views in Perspective, engraved from original Drawings, taken on purpose for this Work.

Together with a PLAN of LONDON, A Map of the ENVIRONS, and several other useful CUTS.

VOL. IV.

LONDON: Printed by R. and J. DODSLEY in Pall-Mall.

M DCC LXI.

LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS DESCRIBED, &c.

LONDON, the metropolis of Great Britain, and one of the largest and richest cities upon earth, is of such antiquity that it is impossible to give any certain account of its origin. It probably existed in the time of the ancient Britons, before the art of writing was brought into England, and when there were no other monuments of ancient facts, than what were found in the songs of the bards, which were preserved only by memory.

It would be ridiculous therefore to lay any stress on the fabulous tales of Geffry of Monmouth, who pretends that it was founded by Brutus, the second nephew of the famous Æneas, and called _Trinovantum_, or New Troy, and that it was at length walled by King Lud, when it obtained the name of _Caer Lud_, or _Lud’s Town_. Upon which suppositions some of our later historians have had the weakness to compute, that it had its origin 1107 years before the birth of Christ; 600 years before the fall of the Assyrian empire by the death of Belshazzar, and 350 before the building of Rome.

But to leave these fabulous tales. Camden supposes that this city derived the name of London from the British words _Llhwn_ a wood, and _Dinas_ a town; by which etymology of the word, London signifies _a town in a wood_: this exactly agrees with the manner in which the Britons formed their towns, by building them in the midst of woods, and fencing them with trees cut down: but lest this derivation should not please, the same learned writer gives another, from the British word _Lhong_, a ship, and _Dinas_ a city, and then the word London will signify a city or harbour for ships: and indeed it has been supposed by many learned authors, that before Cæsar’s time London was the ancient emporium or mart of the British trade with the Phœnicians, Greeks and Gauls.

London had however no buildings either of brick or stone, till it was inhabited by the Romans; for the dwellings of the Britons were only huts formed of twigs wattled together; however, Tacitus observes, that in the year 26, Londinum was very famous for the multitude of its merchants, and the greatness of its traffic; but soon after Suetonius abandoned the city to the fury of Boadicea, because it was too large to be defended by his little army of 10,000 Romans, which is certainly a proof of its being even then of a considerable extent. That British Princess however burnt this great city, and put all the inhabitants to the sword.

London soon recovered from this dreadful catastrophe, and in a few years increased so much in the number of its inhabitants, its trade and buildings, that _Herodian_, in the life of the Emperor Severus, calls it a great and wealthy city, and about this time it changed the name of _Londinum_, for that of _Augusta_; probably from its being the capital of the British dominions, and was made a prefecture by the Romans, in imitation of Rome itself: but it soon after changed the name of Augusta for that of _Caer-Llundain_.

It will not be improper here to observe, that a dispute has arisen about the situation of this city in these early times; the Rev. and learned Dr. Gale, Dean of York, and Mr. Salmon, having offered many arguments to prove that it was a Roman station erected in St. George’s Fields, to secure their conquests on that side the river, before they reduced the Trinobantines; particularly from the great quantities of Roman antiquities found in St. George’s Fields; from the name of Cyningston, or Kennington, which Dr. Gale supposes was an ancient town and castle belonging to the Kings of England, and therefore probably a Roman station, because the Saxons generally used to settle in such places; and from the authority of Ptolemy, who has placed London on the south side of the Thames. In answer to these arguments, it has been very justly observed by Mr. Maitland, that the Romans were too wise to make use of so noisome and unhealthful a place for a station, as St. George’s Fields then was, from their being overflowed by every spring tide; as they must have been before the river was confined by artificial banks, and before the building of London bridge, where, upon an ordinary spring tide, the water rises upwards of nineteen inches higher on the east side than on the west: that, if the antiquities discovered are any proof, above twenty times the quantity of Roman antiquities have been found on the north side of the river. With respect to the argument produced from the name of Kennington, the learned Mr. Woodward observes, that the Kings of England were, from our oldest notices of things, intitled to all such lands as were gained from the sea, or from such rivers as ebbed and flowed; and that with respect to the authority of Ptolemy, he had not only misplaced several other towns in Britain, but in countries much nearer to him.

The time when the city wall was first erected, is very uncertain, some authors ascribing this work to Constantine the Great, and others to his mother Helena; but Mr. Maitland brings several arguments to prove, that it was erected by Valentinian, about the year 368, and that it entirely surrounded the city, to secure it from being invaded by water as well as by land.

This wall was composed alternately of layers of flat Roman brick, and rag stones, and had many lofty towers. Those on the land side were fifteen in number. The remains of one of these is still to be seen in Shoemaker row, fronting the passage into Duke’s Place; and there is another a little nearer Aldgate, twenty-one feet high. From the remains of the Roman work in the city wall, Mr. Maitland supposes, that, at the time of its erection, it was twenty-two feet in height, and that of the towers about forty feet. See LONDON WALL.

During the Saxon heptarchy, London was the metropolis of the kingdom of the East Saxons, and was then, as we are told by Bede, a princely mart-town, governed by a magistrate called a Portreve, that is, a governor or guardian of a port. We find this city then first called London-Byrig, which they soon after changed into Lunden-Ceaster, Lunden-Wye, Lundenne, Lunden-Berk, or Lunden-Burgh. At length Augustine the Monk, having introduced christianity into England, in the year 400, he was made Archbishop of Canterbury, when he ordained Mellitus bishop of the East Saxons, who had a church erected for him in this city by Ethelbert, King of Kent. Thus London first became the seat of a bishop; but this prelate was afterwards expelled, and paganism again for some time publicly established.

The history of the heptarchy is so very defective, that no mention is made of this city from the year 616, to that of 764. After this last period we find that London frequently suffered by fires, and was twice plundered by the Danes; the last time they transported an army in 350 ships up the Thames, and landing near London, soon reduced and plundered it; when looking upon it as a convenient fortress, whence they might at pleasure invade the kingdom of Wessex, made it a place of arms, and left in it a considerable garrison; but the wise and brave Alfred recovered the city, drove out the invaders, and then not only repaired the wall and towers, but embellished the city with additional buildings. But we have no account of the nature of the buildings or the edifices erected, only that in the year 961, there were but few houses within the city walls, and those irregularly dispersed; most of them being without Ludgate, so that Canterbury, York, and other places, contained more houses than London. The city having no bridge, the citizens cross’d the Thames by means of ferries.

But between the years 993, and 1016, a wooden bridge was erected. This great work was performed in the reign of Ethelred, and in the last mentioned year, Canute King of Denmark sailing up the river, in order to plunder the city, and finding that he could not pass the bridge with his ships, caused a canal to be cut through the marshes on the south side of the river, which probably began at the place now called Dockhead, and extending in a semicircle by Margaret’s Hill, entered the Thames about St. Saviour’s Dock, a little above the bridge. This work being accomplished, Canute brought his ships to the west of London bridge, and attacked the city on all sides; however the citizens exerting themselves with extraordinary bravery, he was repulsed with considerable loss, and obliged to raise the siege. Yet he afterwards renewed it with greater vigour than before, but with no better success. At last a peace was concluded between King Edmund and Canute, by which the kingdom was divided between them, when Mercia, of which London was the capital, falling to Canute’s share, the city submitted to him; and Edmund dying a few months after, Canute summoned a parliament to meet in London, who chose that prince sole monarch of England.

Canute now, resolving to win the hearts of his new subjects, disbanded his army, and threw himself entirely upon the affections of the English, at which the above parliament were so pleased, that they granted him 83,000l. a prodigious sum at that time! for, according to the price of land and provisions then, it must have been equal to nine millions at present; and of this immense sum, London alone raised 11,000l. which is a convincing proof of the opulence of the city, since it must be possessed of above one seventh part of the wealth of the whole kingdom.

But we are not writing a history of England, but of its capital, we shall therefore pass over the following reigns, till we come to the invasion of William the Conqueror, who laid Southwark in ashes; but the Londoners afterwards submitting to him, he, in the year 1067, granted them his first charter in their own language, which consists of little more than four lines, beautifully written in the Saxon character on a slip of parchment, six inches long, and one broad, and is still preserved in the city archives.

In 1077 happened the greatest casual fire, that till this time ever befel the city, by which the greatest part of it was laid in ashes; and about two years after, the Conqueror beginning to suspect the fidelity of his subjects, caused the present square tower of London to be erected, to keep them in awe. See the TOWER OF LONDON.

In this reign were several other dreadful fires, and London bridge was in 1091 carried away by a land flood; but a few years after another wooden bridge was built in its room. In 1099 a high flood caused the Thames to overflow its banks, by which a great number of villages were laid under water, and many of their inhabitants drowned: at this time part of the lands belonging to Godwin Earl of Kent, were swallowed up by the sea, and are now denominated Goodwin’s Sands; and this being a reign of prodigies, there happened fifteen years after such a defect of water in the river Thames, that numbers of people crossed not only above and below London bridge, but even through some of the arches, without wetting their feet.

We have already mentioned the first charter granted by William the Conqueror to the city; he afterwards granted them another; but London obtained one much more extensive from Henry I. by which the citizens not only had their ancient customs and immunities confirmed, but the county of Middlesex added to their jurisdiction, on paying the quit rent of 300l. a year; with a power of appointing not only a Sheriff but a Justiciary from among themselves. This was granted to prevent that county’s being any longer an asylum for bankrupts, and fraudulent persons, who having deserted London with the goods and effects of their creditors, lived there in open defiance of those they had injured.

By this charter the citizens were allowed the privilege of not being compelled to plead without the walls of the city, and excused from paying scot, lot, and danegelt, duties payable to the King by all his other subjects. The city was not to be amerced for the escape of a murderer; nor any citizen, when accused of a crime, be obliged to vindicate his innocence by a duel. They were exempted from paying toll in fairs or markets in any part of the kingdom; and if any was exacted, they might make reprisals in London, upon the inhabitants of the town where it was exacted, &c.

Before the grant of this charter, London seems to have been entirely subject to the arbitrary will of the King. But the liberties of the citizens being now guarded by so strong a fence, they endeavoured to secure their customs by converting them into written laws; and the several bodies professing the arts and mysteries of trade and manufacture, which had hitherto been kept up by prescription only, were now strengthened by being formed into established companies. The King however reserved to himself the power of appointing the Portreve, or chief officer of the city.

Upon the death of Henry I. the citizens assisted King Stephen in his endeavours to obtain the crown, and in 1135 received him into the city; but the next year, a dreadful fire laid the greatest part of the city in ashes; for according to Mr. Stow, it began near London Stone, and consumed all the buildings east to Aldgate, and west to St. Erkenwald’s shrine in St. Paul’s cathedral; both of which it destroyed, together with London bridge, which was then of wood.

In the year 1139, the citizens purchased of King Stephen, for an hundred marks of silver, the right of chusing their own Sheriffs; but that prince being soon after defeated and taken prisoner by the Empress Matilda, the daughter of Henry I. she resolved to be revenged on the citizens, for the assistance they had given to that usurper; and therefore, entering into a convention with Geffrey, Earl of Essex, she granted him all the possessions and places which either his grandfather, father, or himself had held of the crown, among which were the sheriffwicks of London and Middlesex: and also the office of Judiciary of the city and county, so that no person could hold pleas in either, without his permission. This compact was executed with the greatest solemnity; and thus the citizens were divested of some of their most valuable privileges.

The citizens soon after humbly entreated Matilda to re-establish the laws of King Edward the Confessor, which had been confirmed to them by the Conqueror’s charter, and to ease them of their insupportable taxes: but instead of granting either of these requests, she, with a disdainful countenance, told them, that since they had assisted her enemy to the utmost of their power, they were to expect no favour from her.

From this haughty answer, they concluded that they had no other treatment to expect from this imperious Princess, than that of slaves. To prevent this, it was resolved, to seize her person; she however escaped; but the populace plundered her palace; after which Stephen was restored, and she compelled to fly the kingdom.

King Henry II. some years after, granted the citizens a charter, by which he confirmed their liberties and immunities.

The 2d of September 1189, the day preceding the coronation of Richard I. surnamed Coeur de Lyon, was remarkable for the dreadful massacre of the Jews in this city. Intimation was given to that people not to appear at the ceremony; but many endeavouring to satisfy their curiosity, by carrying presents to the King, attempted to get into the abbey church of St. Peter’s Westminster: but being repulsed by his Majesty’s domestics, a rumour spread among the populace, that the King had given orders for the entire destruction of that people. Upon which the mob, barbarously falling upon these poor defenceless wretches, murdered all who fell in their way, and then hastening to the city, with a more than diabolical fury massacred all they could find, and then plundered and burnt their houses. However, the next day, the wicked ringleaders of these horrid barbarities were seized, and immediately hanged.

In the year 1197, the citizens purchased of King Richard a charter, for 15,000 marks, by which they were impowered to remove all wears out of the river Thames, and the King resigned all his right to the annual duties arising from them. This is the first charter from which the city claims its jurisdiction and conservacy of that river.

In the next reign the citizens obtained several charters from King John, by which this and all their other privileges were confirmed: and in the year 1207, Henry Fitz-Alwyn took the title of Mayor, instead of Custos and Bailiff, under which names he had held that dignity for twenty years successively.

In the year 1211, the citizens, as an additional security, began to encompass the wall with a deep ditch 200 feet wide; a work in which a vast number of hands was employed. The same year London bridge was consumed by a dreadful fire.

In the beginning of the reign of King Henry III. the city obtained from that Prince five charters, on condition of paying him a fifteenth of their personal estates, by which all their former privileges were confirmed, and some others added. But these were only made to be broken; for this perfidious Monarch frequently extorted money from the citizens, and upon the slightest pretences imprisoned the Mayor and Sheriffs. He seized the charters he had granted, and made the citizens purchase new ones; and in the whole of his behaviour acted like a sharper, void of every principle of honour and justice, or the least regard to his word, his promises, or his oaths.

In this reign the forest of Middlesex being disforested, the citizens obtained an opportunity of purchasing land, and building houses upon it, by which the suburbs of the city were greatly increased, and soon enlarged to a considerable extent without the walls, though all the ground within them was far from being converted into regular streets.

It will not be unentertaining if we give a description of the city as it appeared about this time. The houses were mostly built of wood, and thatched with straw or reeds, which was the occasion of very frequent fires; and the city was supplied with water by men who brought it in carriages from the Thames, and from the brooks which ran through many of the principal streets. Thus the river of Wells, so called from many springs or wells uniting to supply its stream, arose in the north west part of the city, and ran into Fleet Ditch, at the bottom of Holborn hill. This small river, or brook, supplied several water mills, and at length from thence obtained the name of Turnmill Brook.

The Olborn, or Holborn, which arose where Middle row now stands, and flowed down the hill, also fell into Fleet Ditch; and a few houses on its banks were called a village, and distinguished by the name of this rivulet. While the Fleet ran down Fleet street, and also fell into Fleet Ditch.

Wall brook entered the city through the wall between Bishopsgate and Moorgate, and after many turnings emptied itself into the Thames at Dowgate.

The brook Langbourn rose near the east end of Fenchurch street, where mixing with the soil, it rendered it marshy; but ran from thence with a swift current to Sherborne lane, and then dividing into several rills, was lost in the Wall brook on Dowgate hill.

The springs from whence all these streams arose were pretty numerous, and several of them at their source formed deep ponds; particularly there was a large pond in Smithfield, supplied by its own spring; and near Cripplegate a deep and dangerous pool, formed by Crowder’s Well.

At length the citizens being deprived of their usual supplies of water from the above brooks, by the encroachments of buildings, and other ways, water was brought from six springs in the town of Tyburn, by a leaden pipe of a six-inch bore, which was made to supply leaden cisterns castellated with stone. The first and largest of these conduits was erected in West-cheap, in the year 1285, and afterwards the number of these conduits were increased to about twenty. Mr. Stow informs us, that it was customary for the Lord Mayor, accompanied by the Aldermen, and principal citizens on horseback, to visit the heads from whence the conduits were supplied, on the 18th of September, when they hunted a hare before dinner, and a fox after it, in the fields beyond St. Giles’s.

About this time the city was divided into twenty four wards, under the government of the Aldermen; and each ward chose some of the inhabitants as Common Council men, who were sworn into their office; these were to be consulted by the Aldermen, and their advice followed, in all public affairs relating to the city.

The above regulation was made in the reign of King Edward I. who also granted the citizens a charter, by which he confirmed all their ancient privileges. Some years before their receiving this favour, the Lord Treasurer summoned the Mayor, Aldermen, and citizens, to attend him in the Tower, to give an account how the peace of the city had been kept; but Gregory Rockesley, the Mayor, resolving not to attend in that quality, laid aside the ensigns of his office at Barking church, and repaired to the Tower as a private gentleman; which was so highly resented by the Treasurer, that he committed him and several of the principal citizens to prison. This proceeding the King so far approved, that though he discharged the Mayor, he seized the city liberties, and having appointed a Custos of the city, there was no Mayor of London for twelve years after.

In 1306, sea-coal beginning to be much used in the suburbs of London, by brewers, dyers, and others requiring great fires; the nobility and gentry complained to King Edward II. that the air was infected by the noisome smell, and the thick clouds of smoke it occasioned, to the endangering of the health of the inhabitants; upon which a proclamation was issued; forbidding it to be used: but little regard being paid to it, the King appointed a commission of oyer and terminer, to enquire after those who had acted in open defiance of this injunction.

In the beginning of the next reign, the city obtained a very great addition to its privileges; for in the year 1327, King Edward III. granted the citizens two charters; the first of which contained not only a confirmation of the ancient and valuable liberties and immunities of the citizens, but also the following additional privileges.

1. That the Mayor shall be constantly one of the Judges of oyer and terminer, for the trial of criminals confined in Newgate.

2. The citizens to have the privilege of trying a thief or robber within the jurisdiction of the city, and the power of reclaiming a citizen apprehended elsewhere for felony, in order to try him within the city; with a right to all the goods and chattels of all felons, convicted within the jurisdiction of the city.