London and Its Environs Described, vol. 3 (of 6) Containing an Account of Whatever is Most Remarkable for Grandeur, Elegance, Curiosity or Use, in the City and in the Country Twenty Miles Round It

Part 13

Chapter 133,884 wordsPublic domain

This church was finished in the year 1728. The chief aim of the architect was to give an uncommon, yet elegant outline, and to shew the orders in their greatest dignity and perfection; and indeed the outline is so variously broken, that there results a diversity of light and shadow, which is very uncommon, and very elegant. The principal objections against the structure are, that it is so much decorated that it appears encumbered with ornament; and that the compass being too small for the design, it appears too heavy. In the front is an elegant portico supported by Doric columns, which order is continued in pilasters round the building. Above the portico are two towers crowned with well-proportioned turrets, and adorned with columns of the Corinthian order, which are supported on pedestals, and stand free, with corresponding columns behind. _English Architect._

The advowson of this church is in the Dean and Chapter of Westminster: and to prevent this rectory being held in commendam, all licences and dispensations for holding it are by act of parliament declared null and void.

_St._ JOHN ZACHARY’S, a church that was situated at the north west corner of Maiden lane, Wood street; but being destroyed by the fire of London in 1666, and not rebuilt, the parish is annexed to that of St. Anne’s Aldersgate. _Maitland._

JOHN’S _court_, 1. Cable street. 2. Cats hole, Tower ditch. 3. East Smithfield. 4. Hannoway street. 5. John’s street. 6. Nightingale lane.

_St._ JOHN’S _court_, 1. Addle hill. 2. Cow lane. 3. Great Hart street. 4. Little Hart street, by Covent garden. 5. St. John’s square. 6. Somerset street, Whitechapel. 7. Stepney.

_St._ JOHN’S _gate_, St. John’s lane; the south gate of the hospital of St. John of Jerusalem.

JOHN’S _hill_, Ratcliff highway.

_St._ JOHN’S _lane_, vulgarly called St. Joans’s lane, from Hicks’s hall to St. John’s gate.

_St._ JOHN’S _passage_, St. John’s street, West Smithfield.

_St._ JOHN’S _square_, Clerkenwell. Where the present square is situated anciently stood the house of St. John of Jerusalem, founded by Jordan Briset, who for that purpose purchased of the nuns of Clerkenwell ten acres of land, for which he gave twenty acres in his lordship of Willinghale in Kent, and erected that hospital on this spot about the year 1110: but the church belonging to it was not dedicated to St. John the Baptist till 1185. By the profuse liberality of bigots and enthusiasts, these Knights Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem soon attained to that degree of riches and honour, that they not only built a magnificent structure in this spot, that became the chief seat in England of those of their order, but their Prior was esteemed the first Baron in the kingdom, and in state and grandeur vied with the King. The populace however had an extreme antipathy to these imperious Knights; and in 1381, the rebels under Jack Straw and Wat Tyler consumed this stately edifice by fire. However it was rebuilt in a still more magnificent manner, and thus continued till the year 1541, when it was suppressed by Henry VIII.

This spacious and stately edifice was soon after converted into a repository for martial stores, and of the royal hunting equipage; and to this use it was applied till the year 1550; when Edward Seymour Duke of Somerset, and protector of the kingdom, caused the church, with its lofty and beautiful steeple, to be demolished, and the stones employed in building his magnificent palace of Somerset House in the Strand. _Camden’s Britannia._

This square, which is an oblong, chiefly consists of two rows of good houses, at the east end of which is a chapel of ease to the neighbouring church of St. James Clerkenwell. It is entered by two gates, which bear evident marks of great antiquity; the largest and most remarkable of which is that to the south, called St. John’s Gate.

_St._ JOHN’S _street_, 1. Brick lane, Spitalfields. 2. Long ditch. 3. West Smithfield, near St. John’s square.

JOHN’S _street_, 1. David’s street. 2. Gainsford street. 3. Golden square. 4. By Mount street, Westminster. 5. Ratcliff highway. 6. Windmill street.

JOHNSON’S _court_, 1. Charing Cross.† 2. Fleet street.†

JOHNSON’S _street_, Old Gravel lane.†

JOHNSON’S _yard_, Three needle alley, Moorfields.

JOINERS, a company incorporated by letters patent granted by Queen Elizabeth in the year 1565. They are governed by a Master, two Wardens, and twenty-four Assistants, with a livery of 323 members, who upon their admission pay a fine of 8_l._

They have a convenient hall in Friars lane, Thames street, remarkable for a curious screen finely carved at the entrance into it. The great parlour is wainscotted with cedar. _Maitland._

JOINERS _court_, 1. Houndsditch. 2. Jacob street, Mill street.

JOINERS HALL _alley_, Thames street.

JOINERS _street_, Tooley street.

JOLLY _court_, Durham yard, in the Strand.†

JONES’ _court_, Nightingale lane, East Smithfield.†

JONES’ _yard_, 1. Stony lane, Petticoat lane. 2. Little Swan alley.

INIGO JONES, the celebrated architect, several of whose best designs are described in different parts of this work, has therefore a just claim to our regard in this place. And we are obliged to the ingenious authors of the _Biographia Britannica_ for the following particulars relating to his life and works in general. He was born about the year 1572, in the neighbourhood of St. Paul’s in London, of which city his father, Mr. Ignatius Jones, was a citizen and clothworker. Nothing certain being delivered concerning his education, some very different conjectures have been advanced upon that subject, some having suggested that his education was liberal, and others that he was bound apprentice to a joiner, of which latter opinion was Sir Christopher Wren. But in whatever way he was bred, his natural inclination leading him to the study of the arts of drawing and designing, he distinguished himself early by the extraordinary progress he made in those polite and useful arts, and was particularly taken notice of for his skill in the practice of landscape painting. These admirable talents introduced him to the knowledge of William Earl of Pembroke, who was a great patron of all liberal sciences. His Lordship admiring Mr. Jones’s genius, took him into his patronage, and sent him abroad with a handsome allowance, in order to perfect himself, by viewing and studying the works of the best masters ancient and modern, in Italy and the politer parts of Europe. Thus supported, he spent many years in compleating his education; to which end, chusing the city of Venice for the chief place of his residence, he suffered nothing of real value or merit any where to escape his industry; and the improvements he made thereby gave such an eclat to his reputation all over Europe, that Christian IV. King of Denmark sent for him thence, and appointed him his Architect-general. He had enjoyed this post some years, when that Prince, whose sister Anne had married King James I. made a visit to England in 1606. Mr. Jones took this opportunity of returning home; and expressing a desire to continue in his native country, the Queen appointed him her architect; and being not long after taken in the same character into the service of Prince Henry, he discharged his trust with so much fidelity, that the King gave him the reversion of the place of Surveyor-general of his works. After the death of Prince Henry in 1612, our architect made a second tour to Italy, and continued some years there, improving himself still further in his favourite art, till the Surveyor’s place fell to him. He then returned to England to enrich his country with the fruits of his studies. Soon after his arrival, the office of works being found several thousand pounds in debt, he voluntarily gave up his own dues, and prevailed with the Comptroller and Paymaster to do the like, whereby the whole arrears were absolutely cleared. In 1620, by the King’s command, he took an accurate survey of the surprizing group of stones upon Salisbury-Plain, commonly called Stone-henge, and drew up an account with his opinion of that famous monument of antiquity, which he presented to his royal master, and it was printed. In this account, after much reasoning and a long series of authorities, he concludes at last that this ancient and stupendous pile must have been originally a Roman temple, inscribed to _Cœlus_ the senior of the heathen gods, and built after the Tuscan order, and that it was erected when the Romans flourished here in peace and prosperity in Britain, and probably betwixt the time of Agricola’s government and the reign of Constantine the Great, about 1650 years ago.

On the 16th of November the same year, Mr. Jones was appointed, among others, a Commissioner for repairing the cathedral of St. Paul’s in London. Upon the demise of King James, he was continued in his posts by King Charles I. whose consort also entertained him in the like station. And he soon after formed that most stately and elegant pavilion, the Banquetting-house at Whitehall, which was at first designed for the reception of foreign Ambassadors. The ceiling was painted some years after with the Felicities of King James’s reign, by Sir Peter Paul Rubens, and prints from these by Simon Gribelin were published in 1724. The late Lord Burlington about the year 1740 published _a north west view of the palace designed for Whitehall, by Inigo Jones_, which is what is called a bird’s eye prospect, or as it is seen by a bird in flying over it, by which artifice all the parts are brought distinctly into view; and in this view the pavilion or banquetting-house appears in its proper place as part of that palace. Several other designs of Mr. Jones’s were executed in this reign, such as Surgeon’s hall, the Queen’s chapel at St. James’s palace, and her Majesty’s new building fronting the gardens at Somerset House in the Strand; the church and piazza of Covent Garden; the first of which is universally allowed to be a master-piece of the Tuscan order, the portico at the west end, majestic in its plainness, and the roof so happily contrived, by extending itself beyond the wall, as both to cast a shade, which adds to the solemnity of the sacred edifice, and at the same time serves to strengthen the wall, by resting thereon its center of gravity. In the last performance he had in view the piazza of Leghorn, but has vastly surpassed the original in the beauty and largeness of his pillars. Our architect also laid out the ground plot of Lincoln’s Inn fields, and designed the Duke of Ancaster’s house, which stands on the west side of that noble square, and which is no inconsiderable instance of the _softness_ and _sweetness_ of his touches. The royal chapel at Denmark House, the King’s house at Newmarket, and the Queen’s buildings at Greenwich, were also of his design. But it does not come within our plan to describe the number or form a judgment upon the excellence of all his buildings, though views and descriptions of the principal of them we have given, which may be seen under their several names, to which we refer.

In 1633 Mr. Jones began the reparation of St. Paul’s cathedral, the first stone was laid by Dr. Laud then Bishop of London, and the fourth by Mr. Jones; and, in carrying them on, he added a magnificent portico at the west end, which excited the envy of all Christendom on his country, for a piece of architecture not to be parallelled in modern times. While he was raising these noble monuments of his extraordinary genius as an architect, he employed his leisure hours in designing decorations for dramatic entertainments; and there appeared a fine intermixture of fancy and judgment in his pompous machinery of masques and interludes, which were the vogue in his time. Several of these representations are still extant in the works of Chapman, D’Avenant, Daniel, and particularly Ben Johnson. The subject was chosen by the Poet, and the speeches and songs were also of his composing; but the invention of the scenes, ornaments, and dresses of the figures, were the contrivance of Mr. Jones. By these means he acquired a handsome fortune. But his loyalty, the effect both of his integrity and gratitude, exposed him to considerable losses; and he bore a part in the ruins of his royal master. Upon the opening of the Long Parliament in November 1640, he was called before the house of Lords, upon a complaint of the parishioners of St. Gregory’s in London against him, for damages done to that church; and afterwards, during the usurpation, he was constrained to pay 400_l._ by way of composition for his estate, as a malignant. After the death of King Charles I. he was continued in his post by King Charles II. But grief, in one of his years, for the fatal calamity of the former, prevented him from doing the latter any actual service, by cutting him off many years before the restoration. He died most probably about Midsummer 1652, and was interred June 26, in the chancel of St. Benet’s church, near St. Paul’s Wharf, London, where there was a monument erected to his memory upon the north wall, at some distance from his grave; but it suffered greatly in the fire of London, Sept. 1666. His age was about seventy-nine years. Mr. Jones left several manuscripts, which have been published since his death. With respect to his character, we are told by Mr. Webb, that his abilities in all human sciences surpassed most of his age. However that be, ’tis certain he was perfectly well skilled in the mathematics, and had some insight into the two learned languages, Greek and Latin, especially the latter, and he had a taste for poetry. However, these accomplishments were no more than the decorations and counterpart of his proper character, which was, indeed, that of an architect, the most eminent in his time. Accordingly he was then, and is still, generally stiled the _British Vitruvius_; and it is observable that the art of design, little known in England before, was brought into use and esteem by him, under the patronage of King Charles I. and Thomas Earl of Arundel. In short, Mr. Jones was generally learned, eminent for architecture, a great geometrician, and, in designing with his pen (as Sir Anthony Vandyke used to say) not to be equalled by whatever great master in his time, for the _boldness_, _softness_, _sweetness_, and _sureness_ of his touches.

IRELAND _yard_, Black Friars.

IRISH _court_, Whitechapel.

IRISH SOCIETY, meeting in the Irish chamber in Guildhall. In order to convey a clear idea of this society, it is necessary to trace it from its origin. It must therefore be observed, that in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, the province of Ulster, in the north of Ireland, had been greatly depopulated by the suppression of several insurrections in that part of the kingdom; and in particular, the city of Derry and town of Colerain were quite ruined.

To prevent such insurrections for the future, it was thought proper to repeople that part of the country with protestant families; and soon after the accession of King James I. to the throne of England, that Prince, considering this as an affair worthy of his attention, signified his pleasure to some of the Aldermen and Commoners, by means of several of his Privy Council, upon which a court of Common Council was called, and a deputation sent over to view the place of the intended plantation. These deputies being returned, it was agreed in December 1609, that 15,000_l._ should be expended on the plantation, and 5000_l._ in the purchase of private interests.

Soon after articles of agreement were entered into between the Lords of the Privy Council, and a committee chosen by the Lord Mayor and Commonalty of the city, and it was agreed for the better managing of the plantation, there should be a company constituted in London, to consist of a Governor, Deputy Governor, and twenty-four Assistants, to direct what ought to be done on the part of the city, relating to the plantation; and in pursuance of this agreement, the King, by his letters patent, changed the name of Derry to that of Londonderry, and incorporated the committee nominated by the city, by the name of _The society of the Governor and Assistants in London of the new plantation in Ulster within the realm of Ireland_, directing that it should consist of a Governor, Deputy Governor, and twenty-four Assistants; whereof the Governor and five of the Assistants were to be Aldermen, the Recorder for the time being to be an Assistant, and the Deputy Governor, with the rest of the Assistants, to be Commoners. By this charter, the King also granted to the society and their successors, the city, fort and town of Londonderry, the whole island of Derry, and all the castles, towns, villages and lands in the county of Londonderry, particularly mentioned in the charter.

The society now immediately set about rebuilding Londonderry and Colerain, and improving and planting the other parts of the county. And, in order to reimburse the twelve principal companies, and other inferior companies that had contributed to the expence of the plantation, the society divided the whole county of Londonderry into thirteen parts; the first consisting of the city of Londonderry and town of Colerain, with some of the adjoining lands, and the fisheries, was retained by the society in their own possession, to defray the charge of the general work of the plantation, and the surplus was from time to time divided among the twelve companies by the society.

The rest of the county being divided into twelve parts, as equal in value as possible, the twelve companies drew lots for them, and each company had the part which fell to its share. The society then erected each lot into a manor, and obtained a charter of the Crown to convey to each of the companies the lands fallen to it, to hold the same in perpetuity.

King Charles I. however ordered his Attorney General to prosecute the society in the Star-chamber, under the pretence that the charter had been surreptitiously obtained; upon which it was cancelled by a decree of that court, and the lands seized into the King’s hands: but the society were reinstated in their possessions by Oliver Cromwell, who granted the city a new charter; and Charles II. incorporated the society anew, and the companies have enjoyed their possessions ever since.

The Governor and Deputy Governor of the society are by this, as well as the former charters, chosen annually. Twelve of the Assistants go off every year, and twelve new members are chosen in their stead by the Common Council, out of each of the twelve principal companies of the city; who by the appointment of the Governor or Deputy Governor meet as often as required in the Irish chamber at Guildhall, where nine of them, the Governor or Deputy Governor being one, make a court.

They have a Secretary and a messenger of their own appointment to attend them. They have also a Treasurer, who is chosen annually, and gives security to account with the society for what money he receives. All by-laws made by the corporation of Londonderry must be confirmed by the society, before they can be of force. The society has the right of presentation to the churches of Londonderry and Colerain: they likewise appoint a general agent in Ireland to correspond with them, and transact their affairs in that kingdom; and also a receiver to receive their rents. _Maitland._ In short, the citizens of London have the privilege of being free of the city of Londonderry.

IRON GATE, Tower wharf.

IRON GATE _stairs_, Iron Gate, Tower wharf.

IRONMONGER _lane_, Cheapside; so called from its being once chiefly inhabited by those of that trade. _Stow._

IRONMONGER _row_, Old street; so called from the school belonging to that company.

IRONMONGER ROW SCHOOL, was founded in the year 1727, by Mr. John Fuller, for the education of twenty boys and upwards, for the support of which he bequeathed the sum of 1600_l._ to be laid out in a purchase. _Maitland._

IRONMONGERS, one of the twelve principal companies, was incorporated by letters patent granted by King Edward IV. in the year 1464. This corporation is governed by a Master, two Wardens, and the whole livery, which consists of eighty-four, who are assistants, and whose fine upon admission is 15_l._

This company has a very great estate, out of which is annually paid, according to the direction of the several donors, about 1800_l._ Besides these charities, Mr. Thomas Betton, a Turkey merchant, left this company, in trust, in the year 1724, about 26,000_l._ one moiety of the profits thereof to be perpetually employed in the redemption of British captives from Moorish slavery; and the other half to be equally distributed between the poor of the company, and the several charity schools within the bills of mortality. _Maitland._

IRONMONGERS _Almshouse_, in Kingsland road. See JEFFERIES’S _Almshouse_.

IRONMONGERS HALL, a very noble modern building in Fenchurch street. This edifice is entirely fronted with stone, and was erected in the year 1748. The whole lower story is wrought in rustic; the center part of the building projects a little, and in this are a large arched entrance, and two windows, with two others on each side. Over this rustic story rises the superstructure, which has a light rustic at the corners, to keep up a correspondence with the rest of the building; the part which projects is here ornamented with four Ionic pilasters coupled, but with a large inter-columniation. In the middle is a very noble Venetian window, and over it, a circular one. In each space between the pilasters, is a smaller window, with an angular pediment; and over these are also circular ones; but the side parts have arched windows with square ones over them. The central part is crowned with a pediment supported by these pilasters, and in its plain is the arms of the company with handsome decorations in relievo. The rest of the building is terminated by a balustrade crowned with vases.

ISAAC’S _rents_, Shoe lane.

ISLAND HEAD _lane_, Wapping.

ISLE OF DOGS, a part of Poplar marsh. When our Sovereigns had a palace at Greenwich, they used it as a hunting seat, and it is said, kept the kennels for their hounds in this marsh, which lies on the other side of the river; these hounds frequently making a great noise, the seamen and others called the place the Isle of Dogs, though it is so far from being an island, that it can scarcely be called a peninsula. _Stow._

ISLEWORTH or THISTLEWORTH, a village in Middlesex, pleasantly situated on the Thames opposite to Richmond. Here are two charity schools, and in its neighbourhood are the seats of several persons of distinction.

ISLINGTON, a large village in Middlesex, on the north side of London, to which it is almost contiguous. It appears to have been built by the Saxons, and in the time of William the Conqueror was called Isendon or Isledon. By the south west side of this village, is a fine reservoir called New River Head, which consists of a large bason, into which the New River discharges itself; part of the water is from thence conveyed by pipes to London, while another part is thrown by an engine through other pipes up hill to a reservoir, which lies much higher, in order to supply the highest parts of London.