Part 8

This duty did not however answer the end for which it was granted, and the company was obliged to apply to parliament in the year 1730 for relief, when they obtained a certain sum for that purpose, and it was enacted that all his Majesty’s subjects treading to and from Africa, between Cape Blanco and the Cape of Good Hope, should hereafter be deemed a body corporate, and that all the countries, islands, rivers and places, together with the forts, should be in the possession of this new company; the members of which should not trade to or from Africa in their joint capacity, have any joint or transferable stock, or borrow money on their common seal. That the persons trading or intending to trade to Africa, should pay to the Chamberlain of London, the Clerk of the Merchants-hall in Bristol, or the Town Clerk of Liverpool, 40_s._ each for the freedom of the new company. That the management of the affairs of this new company, should be under the direction of a committee of nine persons, to be chosen annually, three out of the members in the city of London, three out of those of Bristol, and three out of those of Liverpool. That this committee should have power to make orders for the government and improvement of the forts and factories; to appoint governors, and other officers civil and military; to receive annually the sum of 40_s._ and to take a list of the names of all the persons making payment.

It is also enacted, that the committee shall once a year give an account of all their transactions to the Commissioners for trade and plantations, and likewise lay before the Cursitor Baron of the Exchequer, an account, upon oath, of all the money they have received within the preceding year, and the application thereof; and the Lords of the Admiralty are to give instructions to the Captains of such of his Majesty’s ships of war as shall be stationed or ordered to cruize within the above limits, to inspect, and make report to them from time to time of the state of the forts and settlements, copies of which are to be laid before the parliament every sessions.

This is the state at present of this company, who keep their office in Cooper’s court, Cornhill.

AGNES _court_, Little George street.

_St._ AGNES LE CLARE _fields_, near Hoxton, so called from a spring of water dedicated to that Saint, and now converted into a cold bath.

AILSBURY _court_, George street.

AILSBURY _street_, 1. By Jermyn street. 2. St. John’s street, Clerkenwell green.

AINGER _street_, York street.†

AIR _street_, 1. Piccadilly.† 2. By Mary la bone.† 3. Leather lane.†

AKERSLEY _yard_, Great St. Anne’s street.†

ALAM _yard_, Crutched Friars.

_St._ ALBAN’S, a large and very ancient town in Hertfordshire, 21 miles from London, was so called from St. Alban, who suffered in the persecution under Dioclesian, and being afterwards canonized, and interred on a hill in the neighbourhood of this town, a monastery was erected and dedicated to him by King Offa. King Edward I. erected a magnificent cross in memory of Queen Eleanor; and King Edward VI. incorporated this town by a charter, granting the inhabitants a Mayor, a Steward, a Chamberlain, and ten Burgesses: but the Mayor and Steward are here the only Justices of peace. Here are three churches, besides the ancient cathedral called St. Alban’s, belonging to the monastery, which is now a parish church.

In this ancient edifice is a funeral monument and effigies of King Offa, its founder, who is represented seated on his throne; and underneath is the following inscription:

Fundator Ecclesiæ circa annum 793. Quem male depictum, et residentem cernitis alte Sublimem solio, MERCIUS OFFA fuit.

That is,

_The founder of the church, about the year 793. Whom you behold ill-painted on his throne Sublime, was once for_ MERCIAN OFFA _known._

On the east side stood the shrine of St. Alban, where the following short inscription is still to be seen;

S. ALBANUS VEROLAMENSIS, ANGLORUM PROTOMARTYR, 17 Junii 293.

In the south isle near the above shrine is the monument of Humphry, brother to King Henry V. commonly distinguished by the title of the Good Duke of Gloucester. It is adorned with a ducal coronet, and the arms of France and England quartered. In niches on one side are seventeen Kings; but in the niches on the other side there are no statues remaining. The inscription, which alludes to the pretended miraculous cure of a blind man detected by the Duke, is as follows:

Piæ Memoriæ V. Opt. Sacrum. Hic jacet HUMPHREDUS, Dux ille Glocestrius olim, HENRICI Sexti protector, fraudis ineptæ Detector, dum ficta notat miracula cœci. Lumen erat patriæ, columen venerabile regni, Pacis amans, Musisque favens melioribus; unde Gratum opus Oxonio, quæ nunc schola sacra refulget. Invida sed mulier regno, regi, sibi nequam, Abstulit hunc, humili vix hoc dignata sepulcro. Invidia rumpente tamen, post funera vivit.

Which has been thus translated:

_Sacred to the memory of the best of men._ Interr’d within this consecrated ground, Lies he, whom HENRY his protector found: Good HUMPHRY, Gloc’ster’s Duke, who well could spy Fraud couch’d within the blind impostor’s eye. His country’s light, the state’s rever’d support, Who peace and rising learning deigned to court; Whence his rich library at Oxford plac’d, Her ample schools with sacred influence grac’d: Yet fell beneath an envious woman’s wile, Both to herself, her King, and country vile; Who scarce allowed his bones this spot of land: Yet spite of envy shall his glory stand.

About 40 years ago in digging a grave, a pair of stairs were discovered that lead down into a vault where his leaden coffin was found, in which his body was preserved entire, by a kind of pickle in which it lay, only the flesh was wasted from the legs, the pickle at that end being dried up. Many curious medals and coins are to be seen in the church, that have been dug out of the ruins of Old Verulam that stood on the other side of the river Ver, or Moore, which runs south west of the town.

Near St. Alban’s is a fort, at a place called by the common people the Oyster Hills, which is supposed to have been the camp of Ostorius, the Roman Proprætor. This town is the largest in the county, and besides the four churches, has several meeting-houses, two charity schools, and three fairs, and has on Saturday one of the best markets for wheat in England. It gives the title of Duke to the noble family of Beauclerc. The great John Duke of Marlborough erected a seat here, called Holloway-house, and several neat alms-houses have been built here by him and his Duchess.

_St._ ALBAN’S, _Wood street_, on the north side of London, and the east side of Wood street, Cheapside, is dedicated to St. Alban, the British Proto-Martyr, who suffered under the persecution of Dioclesian. The first church in this place was erected in the year 930, and dedicated to the same Saint. After various repairs, the old church was pulled down in 1634, and another erected, which was destroyed by the fire of London thirty-two years after, when the present edifice was built from the same model as the former. It is entirely in the Gothic stile, and consists of a spacious body, and a handsome tower with pinacles.

This church is a rectory in the patronage of Eton College, and the parish of St. Olave, Silver street, is united to it. The Rector, besides other advantages, receives 170_l._ in lieu of tithes.

Munday in his edition of Stow mentions several uncommon epitaphs in this church, from which we have only selected the following:

Hic jacet Tom Shorthose, Sine tombe, sine sheet, sine riches, Qui vixit sine gowne, Sine cloake, sine shirt, sine breeches.

_St._ ALBAN’S _street_, Pall-mall.

ALBEMARLE _buildings_, Bond street, so called from the Duke of Albemarle, who bought the Earl of Clarendon’s seat, which stood here, and afterwards selling the house and gardens, they were laid out into streets, whence arose this and the two following streets.

ALBEMARLE _mews_, Dover street.

ALBEMARLE _street_. 1. Piccadilly, 2. St. John’s street, West Smithfield.†

In the possession of Richard Mead, Esq; in Albemarle street, is a book bought out of the collection of the famous Cardinal Maximi at Rome; it contain 148 accurate and elegant paintings in water colours, done from ancient pictures found on the walls, ceilings and floors of the baths of Titus, and various other buildings in Rome, some of which have been engraved by Bartoli in his _Sepolchri di Nassoni_, and in other books: but many of them are to be seen no where else, neither engraved, nor on the walls from whence they were first copied, where they are much defaced by the weather, the smoke of torches, and other accidents.

Of these ancient paintings on wall, Mr. Mead has also a very elegant little specimen representing Augustus restoring a crown to a conquered Prince in the presence of several of his courtiers, among which the faces of Mecænas and Horace may be distinguished.—This has been engraved and explained by Turnbull.

An ancient Greek inscription, being eight lines of Hexameter and Pentameter verses on a marble brought from Asia, which had been a pedestal to a statue of Jupiter Urius. This has been engraved and explained by the learned Mr. Chishul in his _Antiquitates Asiaticæ_.

ALCOCK’S _rents_, Barnaby street.†

ALDERMANBURY, Cateaton street. This street was thus named from the Guildhall being anciently situated there, till falling to decay, the present hall was built at the end of King street, about the year 1420. The old hall must have been very ancient, as this street had the name of Aldermanbury so early as before the year 1189; and Mr. Maitland supposes that Edward the Confessor, who began his reign in 1042, had a considerable share in its first foundation.

ALDERMANBURY _Postern_, London wall.

ALDERMAN PARSONS’S _stairs_, St. Catharine’s.†

ALDERMAN’S _walk_, Bishopsgate street.

ALDERMEN. These are twenty-six in number, and each has his separate ward, to the government of which he is more immediately to attend. Those who have served the office of Lord Mayor, are said to be above the chair, and with three of the eldest that are next it, are justices of the peace by charter. All the Aldermen keep their wardmote for chusing ward officers, and settling the affairs of the ward; for redressing grievances, and presenting all defaults found in the ward. In the management of these affairs, every Alderman has his deputy, chosen out of the common council, and in some of the wards, that are very large, the Alderman has two deputies.

ALDERSGATE, which is situated 1265 feet south west of Cripplegate, is, in Stow’s opinion, one of the original gates of the city; but this is disputed by Maitland, who observes, that the epithet of Alder does not necessarily imply its antiquity, as some derive the name of the gate from Aldrich, a Saxon; others from the seniors or old men by whom it was built; and others from the great number of alder trees, which grew in that neighbourhood; whence he imagines that either of these opinions is more probable, than that this name was conferred upon it on account of its age, particularly as it is no where found to be mentioned before the conquest.

The present gate was built in the year 1616, and being much damaged by the fire of London, was repaired in 1670. In a large square over the arch is King James I. on horseback, in the same posture as when he made his entry through this gate, on his coming to take possession of the crown. The arms of England, Scotland, and Ireland, are quartered above his head. In a nich on the east side is the prophet Jeremiah, with the words of the 25th verse of the 17th chapter of his book; and in a nich on the west side stands the prophet Samuel, with the first verse of the 12th chap. of 1 Sam. On the south side is King James I. in his royal robes, sitting in a chair of state, done in relief. By the sides of the gate there are two posterns for the convenience of foot passengers: and the apartments above are appropriated to the use of the common crier of the city.

A late author observes, that this gate is so heavy and Gothic a structure, that it hardly deserves notice, unless for the sake of the bass relief of King James, which, though in an aukward and inelegant taste, is a very tolerable piece of workmanship, and may challenge some applause.

ALDERSGATE _bars_, in Goswell street, a little beyond the north end of Aldersgate street, where the liberties of the city end on that side.

ALDERSGATE _street_, extends from the gate to the corner of Barbican.

ALDERSGATE WARD, is of considerable extent both within and without the gate from which it is named, and extends in length from Blowbladder street to Aldersgate bars, including part of Noble street, almost all Foster lane, St. Martin’s le Grand, Bull and Mouth street, Little Britain, and Aldersgate street. The principal buildings are two churches, St. Botolph’s and St. Ann’s, Goldsmiths-hall, Cooks-hall, Coachmakers-hall, Shaftsbury house, a noble building now used for the London lying-in hospital, and London-house. This ward is governed by an Alderman, two Deputies, and eight Common Council Men; eight constables, nine scavengers, nineteen wardmote inquest men and a beadle. The jurymen returned by the wardmote inquest serve in the several courts in Guildhall in the month of August.

ALDGATE, was one of the four original gates of the city, and that through which the Roman vicinal way led to the _trajectus_ or ferry at Old Ford. Stow says, that it received its name from its antiquity, which Maitland observes is very improbable, though he allows that the Saxons might give it the epithet of _Eald_ or _Ald_, from the ruinous condition in which they found it when they first possessed themselves of this city. However, the first time it is found mentioned, is in a charter granted by King Edgar about the year 967.

Aldgate being very ruinous, was pulled down in the year 1606, and the first stone of the present edifice was laid the next year; but this work was not finished till 1609. It is observable that in digging the foundation, several Roman coins were discovered, two of which Mr. Bond the surveyor caused to be cut on stone, and placed on each side of the east front. On the same side was placed in a large square the statue of King James I. in gilt armour, with a golden lion and a chained unicorn couchant at his feet. On the top of the gate was a vane supported by a gilt sphere, on each side of which stood a soldier holding a bullet in his hand, on the top of the upper battlements. On the west side was a figure of Fortune gilt, and standing on a globe, with a prosperous sail spreading over her head; under which was carved the King’s arms; some what lower on the south side stood Peace with a dove perched on her hand, and a gilded wreath in the other; and on the north side was the emblem of Charity. Over the arch of the gate was also engraven,

_Senatus Populusque_ Londinensis _Fecit_ 1609 HUMFREY WELD, Maior.

But all these statues have been removed, and none of these ornaments remain, except the representation of the two Roman coins, and the inscription.

The apartments over this gate are appropriated to the use of one of the Lord Mayor’s carvers.

ALDGATE _high street_, extends from Aldgate to Leadenhall street.

ALDGATE _street_, extends without Aldgate, to the north east corner of the Minories.

ALDGATE WARD, is bounded on the east by Portsoken ward; on the south by Tower street ward; and on the west and north, by the wards of Langbourn, Lime street and Bishopsgate. It extends from Aldgate to Lime street corner in Leadenhall street, and takes in all the streets and lanes on the one hand to Bevis Mark and Shoemaker row, and on the other to Ironmongers hall in Fenchurch street; to the navy office, only a part of which is in this ward, and to the end of River street Tower hill; including Poor Jury lane, Crutched Friars, London street, Woodroff lane, _&c._ The principal buildings are these four parish churches, St. Catharine Cree church, St. Andrew Undershaft, St. James Duke’s place, and St. Catharine Coleman; three Jews Synagogues, and the Ironmongers, Fletchers and Bricklayers halls. It is under the government of an Alderman and six Common Council men, one of whom is the Alderman’s deputy, with six constables, nine scavengers, eighteen wardmote inquest men, and a beadle. The jurymen returned by the wardmote inquest, serve as jurors in the several courts of Guildhall in the month of January. _Maitland._

ALEXANDER’S _yard_, Water lane, Fleet street.†

ALIENATION OFFICE in the Inner Temple, is one of the offices under the Lord Chancellor. Here all writs of covenants and entry upon which fines are levied, and recoveries suffered, are carried to have fines for alienation, set and paid thereupon. This office is executed by three commissioners. _Chamberlain’s Present State._

ALLARD’S _hill_, Rotherhith wall.†

ALLEN’S _street_, Goswell street.†

ALLEN’S _court_, 1. Leadenhall street.† 2. Oxford street.†

ALLEN’S _rents_, Houndsditch, Bishopsgate street without.†

ALLEYN’S COLLEGE at Dulwich. See DULWICH _college_. ALLEYN’S ALMSHOUSE in Lamb alley in Bishopsgate street. This charitable foundation, was erected in Petty France by Edward Alleyn, a comedian, about the year 1614, and from thence removed to the above place upon the rebuilding of Petty France, now called New Broad street. Ten poor men and women are, besides their lodging, allowed about 40_s._ _per annum_, and every other year the men have coats and breeches, and the women gowns and petticoats. _Maitland._

ALLEYN’S ALMSHOUSE, in Pesthouse lane near Old street, was founded by the above Edward Alleyn, about the year 1616, for ten poor men and women; who receive 6_d._ per week each, and every other year coats and gowns.

ALLEYN’S ALMSHOUSE in Soap yard, Deadman’s Place in Southwark, was also founded by the above Edward Alleyn, about the year 1616, for ten poor men and women, with an allowance of only 6_d._ per week.

ALLHALLOWS _Barking_ church, at the east end of Tower street, is so denominated from its being dedicated to all the Saints, vulgarly called Allhallows; and its anciently belonging to the Abbess and Convent of Barking in Essex. It escaped the fire in 1666, and carries about it the marks of that period when architecture was not well understood in England. The church is of considerable extent, and the steeple is a plain tower with its turret. It is a vicarage in the patronage of the Archbishop of Canterbury. The Vicar, besides other advantages, receives about 126_l._ a year in tithes.

ALLHALLOWS _Bread street_. The old church was destroyed by the dreadful conflagration which laid most of the other churches in ruins; and the present edifice was erected in 1684. It consists of a plain body, and a square tower divided into four stages with arches near the top. It is a rectory, and one of the thirteen peculiars in this city belonging to the Archbishop of Canterbury.

The advowson of this church is in the Archbishop of Canterbury, and to this parish that of St. John the Evangelist is united. The Vicar, besides glebes, casualties, annual donations, and other advantages, receives 1401. a year in lieu of tithes. _Maitland._

The following monumental inscripton in this church is worthy of a place in this work. It is to the memory of Humfrey Levins, a citizen and grocer of London, who died in 1682, in the fifty-third year of his age, and his son Humfrey, a youth aged fourteen, who died in 1677, and lies buried in the same grave.

Which shall we weep? both merit tears; yet sure Tears are but vain, where bliss is so secure. Which shall we praise? our eulogy can’t add Unto the bless’d, who God’s kind euge had. Our duty’s but to imitate and admire This happy pair of the celestial choir.

ALLHALLOWS _the Great_, situated on the south side of Thames street, was anciently denominated _Allhallows the More_, and _Allhallows ad Fœnum_ in the _Ropery_, from its vicinity to a hay-wharf or market, and situation among ropemakers. The old church with a large cloister on the south side, were consumed in the general conflagration in 1666, and the present edifice arose in 1683. It was built on Sir Christopher Wren’s plan; but in some parts the mason has taken inexcusable liberties. The church is 87 feet in length, 60 in breadth, and the height to the roof is 33. It is built of stone, and there runs thro’ the whole, an apparent strength and solidity. The walls are plain and massy, the ornaments are few and simple, and the apertures, tho’ large, in order to enlighten so considerable a breadth, are not numerous. The tower is plain, square, and divided into five stages, but terminates absolutely square and plain, without spire, turret or pinacles. The cornice is supported by scrolls, and over these rises a balustrade of solid construction, very proper for the rest of the building. _Maitland, and English Architecture._

Among the funeral monuments in this church, before its being burnt, was one in memory of Queen Elizabeth, with the following inscriptions:

If royal virtues ever crown’d a crown; If ever mildness shin’d in majesty; If ever honour honour’d true renown; If ever courage dwelt with clemency; If ever Princess put all Princes down, For temperance, prowess, prudence, equity; This, this was she, that in despight of death Lives still admir’d, ador’d Elizabeth. Many daughters have done virtuously, but thou excellest them all.

_In the figure of a book above her picture_;

They that trust in the Lord shall be as Mount Sion, which shall not be removed.

_On the right side_;

Spain’s rod, Rome’s ruin, the Netherlands relief, Heaven’s gem, earth’s joy, world’s wonder, nation’s chief.

_On the left side_;

Britain’s blessing, England’s splendor, Religion’s nurse, and Faith’s defender.

_And beneath_;

I have fought a good fight, I have finished my course, &c. Queen Elizabeth died the 24th of March, 1602.

This church is a rectory, and one of the thirteen peculiars belonging to the Archbishop of Canterbury; and to this parish that of Allhallows the Less is annexed, by which the profits of the Rector are greatly increased. He receives, besides glebes, &c. 200_l._ _per annum_ in lieu of tithes.

ALLHALLOWS _Honey lane_, a small church, which stood where the east end of Honey lane market is at present situated; but being destroyed by the fire of London in 1666, the parish was by act of parliament united to the church of St. Mary le Bow.

ALLHALLOWS _the Less_, stood on the south side of Thames street, almost adjoining to that of Allhallows the Great; but having suffered in the common calamity in 1666, the parish was united to that of Allhallows the Great.