London and Its Environs Described, vol. 1 (of 6) Containing an Account of Whatever is Most Remarkable for Grandeur, Elegance, Curiosity or Use, in the City and in the Country Twenty Miles Round It

Part 2

Chapter 24,115 wordsPublic domain

On the south side of this shrine lies Editha, daughter to Goodwyn, Earl of Kent, and Queen to St. Edward, with whom she lived eighteen years, and tho’ she was the most accomplished woman of that age, confessed on her death-bed, that he suffered her to live and die a virgin; and, as an ancient manuscript in the Cotton library has it, “nathelees, tho’ the Kinge had a wyfe, he lived ev’moe in chastete, and clennes, wythowten any fleshley dedes doynge wyth his wyfe the Queen, and so dyd the Queen on her syde.” She survived her husband eight years, and beheld all the miseries consequent upon his dying without issue. She was however treated with great respect by William the Conqueror, who allowed her an apartment in the King’s palace at Winchester, where she died, and was interred here, by his express orders.

Near the remains of this Princess lie those of Queen Maud, surnam’d the Good, the daughter of Malcolm Conmair, King of Scotland, to whom she was espoused, in order to unite the Saxon and Norman lines, and thereby to reconcile the affections of the English to the future Kings that should spring from them. She died on the 11th of May 1118. This excellent Princess was distinguished by her many virtues, particularly her humility, and her placing her chief delight in relieving the poor.

On the north side of this chapel is the tomb of Henry III. the pannels are of polish’d porphyry, and around them is mosaic work of gold and scarlet. At the corners of the table are twisted pillars, gilt, and enamell’d, and upon it is placed the effigy of that King in brass gilt, finely executed. He died in 1272, aged 65, after a troublesome reign of 56 years.

At the feet of the last mentioned Prince lies the effigy of Eleanor, Queen to Edward I. On the sides of this monument are engraven the arms of Castile and Leon, quarterly, and those of Ponthieu, hanging on vines and oak-trees, and round the copper verge is embossed this inscription in Saxon characters;

_Icy gist Alianor Jadis Reyne de Angleterre, Femme al. Re. Edward Fiz._

That is,

_Here lies Eleanor, once Queen of England, Wife to King Edward._

It is remarkable, that the body of this Queen was only interred here, and that her heart was placed in the choir of the friars predicants in London.

There is also here a large plain coffin of grey marble, composed of seven stones, four of which form the sides, two the ends, and one the cover. This rough unpolished tomb incloses the body of the glorious King Edward I. just mentioned, who was born on the 17th of June 1239. He was named Edward, in honour of Edward the Confessor, and afterwards surnamed Long Shanks, from his tall and slender habit of body. This brave Prince died on the 7th of July 1307, aged 68.

In this chapel is a tomb of black marble, to the memory of Philippa, the third daughter to William Earl of Hainault, and Queen to King Edward III. who bestowed a profusion of expence on her tomb, round which were placed as ornaments, the brazen statues of no less than thirty Kings, Princes, and noble personages her relations.

Tho’ Edward III. was interred in the same grave as the Queen, he has a monument erected for him adjoining to hers, covered with a Gothic canopy. The effigy of this Prince, who died June 21, 1377, lies on a tomb of grey marble, and at his head are placed the shield and sword carried before him in France: the latter is seven feet long, and weighs eighteen pounds. This tomb was, like the former, surrounded with statues, particularly with those of his children.

Next to this is the tomb of Richard II. and his Queen, over which is a canopy of wood, remarkable for a painting of the Virgin Mary and our Saviour still visible. This Prince was murdered on Valentine’s day 1399, and on the robing of his effigy are curiously wrought, peascod shells open, and the peas out, perhaps in allusion to his being once in full possession of sovereignty, which before his murder, was reduced to an empty title.

Between St. Edward’s shrine, and the tomb of Queen Philippa, under a large stone, once plated with brass, lies the great Thomas of Woodstock, Duke of Gloucester, and uncle to the above Richard II. who murdered him on the 8th of September, 1397, for being too free and too faithful a monitor.

Here is also a table monument in memory of Margaret, daughter to Edward IV. by his Queen Elizabeth Woodville; and a small monument of black Lydian marble finely polished, in memory of Elizabeth Tudor, the second daughter of Henry VIII who died at three years of age.

_Henry the Fifth’s Chapel_, is only parted from St. Edward’s by an iron screen, on each side of which are statues as big as the life. His monument, which is surrounded with iron rails and gates, is of black marble, and upon it is placed his statue; but what is very remarkable, it lies without the head. Your guides say, that the body is heart of oak, and the head of beaten silver; as were also the scepter and other ensigns of royalty with which this statue was adorned; but that the value of these occasioned their being sacrilegiously taken away. This is by some writers represented at a ridiculous tale. Over this tomb is a chauntry chapel, in which the weapons, armour, and caparisons of Henry V. were carefully laid up, and remain to this day.

Near this tomb lies enclosed in an old wooden chest, the remains of Catharine, daughter of Charles VI. King of France, and the consort of Henry V. She died on the 2d of January 1437, and was honourably interred in the chapel erected by Henry III. but when her grandson Henry VII. pulled down that to build his own chapel, her body was taken up, when the bones appeared firmly united, and thinly covered with flesh; but the coffin being decayed, was put into a wooden chest, and removed to the place where it is now seen. This is the account given by those who shew this venerable dust, the miserable remains of a lady of royal blood, and of distinguished beauty.

_The Chapel of St. Andrew_, which is next the northern cross, has in the center a magnificent monument erected to the memory of Sir Francis Norris, ancestor to the late Sir John Norris. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth he distinguished himself by his bravery in the Low Countries, and was created Lord Norris of Rycot. This monument has a fine representation of an encampment in relief, and is otherwise beautifully ornamented; but has no inscription.

Against the east wall is a table monument to the memory of Sir John Burgh, who was killed in 1594, in taking a large Spanish ship, laden with gold, silver and jewels of inestimable value.

In one corner is an ancient monument of Robert Kirton, that has several labels in black letters round his portrait, which rests upon eagles crowned. He died Oct. 3, 1466.

_St. Michael’s Chapel_ has only one monument worthy of notice, which is that of Sarah, Duchess of Somerset; and mother to the last Duke of that branch of the family. On the base sit two charity boys, one on each side, lamenting the loss of their great benefactress, who is represented resting upon her arm, under a canopy of state, and looking earnestly upon a group of cherubims, issuing from the clouds above her. Underneath is a Latin inscription, enumerating her many charitable foundations, and informing us that this excellent Lady died on the 5th of September 1692.

_St. John the Evangelist’s Chapel_, has in the center a curious monument to Sir Francis Vere, a gentleman of the first reputation for learning and bravery, who particularly distinguished himself at the battle of Newport, in which he commanded in front under Prince Maurice, in the service of the States, against the Spaniards. This great warrior was 30 years in the Dutch service, and in 20 of them commanded the auxiliary troops of England. He died on the 28th of August 1608, in the 54th year of his age. His monument is a table supported by four knights kneeling, on which lie the several parts of a complete suit of armour, and underneath the effigies of Sir Francis, lying, as if undressed, in a loose gown, on a quilt of alabaster. On the base is a short Latin inscription in gold letters, shewing to whom it belongs; that he was nephew to the Earl of Oxford, and Governor of Portsmouth and the Brille, and that his disconsolate widow consecrated this monument to his memory.

Close to the wall is a monument of Sir George Hollis, nephew to Sir Francis Vere, and a Major General under him. On the pedestal is represented the siege of a town in relief, where the principal figure is a General on horseback holding a battoon, and having one eye blemished, perhaps alluding to the siege of Newport, in which Sir George also gained great honour, and had a horse killed under him. On each side of this pedestal sits a Pallas, lamenting the death of the great warrior, who is represented above in the Roman habit, standing erect upon a lofty altar, with a cherub supporting the plinth on which he stands. Sir George died in January 1626. An ingenious author speaking of this monument, says, that Sir George was the first erect figure set up in the Abbey; “an attitude, says he, which I am far from discommending, for ’tis my opinion, statues should always represent life and action: ’tis peculiarly adapted to heroes, who ought never to be supposed at rest, and should have their characters represented as strong as possible: this before us is bold and manly, though not chaste and elegant: ’tis finely elevated too, and the mourning Pallases, at the base of it, are both well fancied and well applied.”

Near Sir Francis’s tomb is that of Aubery de Vere, the last Earl of Oxford of that name, and Lieutenant-General of Queen Anne’s forces, who died March 12, 1702.

In this chapel there are also some antique monuments; particularly on the right hand, is that of John de Eastney, one of the Abbots, who was a great benefactor to this church, and died on the 4th of May 1438. A brazen statue of this Abbot in his mass habit, lies upon his tomb. It is remarkable, that in breaking up a grave about thirty years ago, his body was discovered in a coffin quilted with yellow sattin, having on a gown of crimson silk, girded round him with a black girdle; on his legs were white silk stockings, and over his face a clean napkin doubled up, and laid corner wise. His body and legs are said to have been plump and firm, but his face somewhat discoloured.

There is likewise here the monument of Sir John Harpedon, Knt. who died in 1457. He lies in armour, resting his feet on a lion, and his head on a greyhound.

_St. Erasmus’s, or Islip’s Chapel_, has but two monuments worthy of notice; the first that of John Islip, Abbot of Westminster, the founder of this chapel, which he dedicated to St. Erasmus. It is adorned with much carving in devices, intaglios, and febuses, alluding to the name of the founder, as a person slipping boughs off a tree; an eye with the slip of the tree; and a youth sliding from a bough, with _I slip_, in a label proceeding out of his mouth. In the middle is Islip’s tomb which is a plain marble table, supported by four small brass pillars; over it was anciently painted on the roof, a picture of our Saviour on the cross. He died in January 1510.

The other is the tomb of Sir Christopher Hatton, son to Christopher Hatton, Lord Chancellor of England. The principal figures are a knight in armour, and a lady in deep mourning resting on the ascending sides of a triangular pediment, parted in the middle by a trunkless helmet. Over their heads is a neat piece of architecture, in the center of which is a scroll with their arms, held up by naked boys, one of whom holds an extinguished torch reversed over the Knight, to shew that Sir Christopher died first; the other over the Lady holds his torch upright and burning, to signify that she survived him. The inscription informs us, that Sir Christopher died on the 10th of September 1619.

Over this chapel is a chauntry, in which are two large wainscot presses, filled with the effigies of Princes, and others of high quality, interred in the Abbey. These effigies, ’tis said, resembled the deceased as near as possible, and were formerly exposed at the funerals of our Princes and other great personages, in open chariots, with their proper ensigns of royalty or honour. Those here deposited are all maimed, some stripped, and others in tattered robes; but the most ancient are the least injured, which seems as if the value of their cloaths had occasioned this ravage; for the robes of Edward VI. that were once of crimson velvet, but now appear like leather, are left entire; while those of Queen Elizabeth and King James I. are taken away, as is every thing of value from all the rest.

_St. John Baptist’s Chapel_, contains several monuments: one at the entrance is to the memory of Mrs. Mary Kendall, the daughter of Thomas Kendall, Esq; she died in her thirty-third year, and her epitaph informs us, that “her many virtues rendered her every way worthy of that close union and friendship, in which she lived with Lady Catharine Jones; and in testimony of which, she desired that even their ashes, after death, might not be divided; and therefore ordered herself here to be interred, where she knew that excellent Lady designed one day to rest, near the grave of her beloved and religious mother, Elizabeth Countess of Kendall.”

Next to this is a monument erected to the memory of Col. Edward Popham, and his Lady, whose statues in white marble stand under a lofty canopy, resting their arms in a thoughtful posture upon a marble altar, on which lie the gloves of an armed knight. This gentleman was an active officer in Cromwell’s army, and his atchievements were here inscribed on his tomb. Upon the restoration, the monument was ordered to be demolished, and the inscription erased; but at the intercession of some of his Lady’s relations, who had eminently served his Majesty, the stone whereon the inscription was cut was only turned inwards, and no other injury done to his monument.

In the midst of this chapel is a large table monument for Thomas Cecil, Earl of Exeter, Baron Burleigh, Knight of the Garter, and Privy Counsellor to King James I. whereon is placed his statue lying down, with his Lady on his right side, and a vacant space on his left for another. The Lady on his right side is his first wife the Lady Dorothy Nevil, daughter to the Lord Latimer; and the vacant space was left for his second wife, Frances Bridges, of the noble family of Chandois; but as the right side was taken up, she gave express orders in her will, not to place her effigy on his left, however, according to the inscription, they are all buried together in one vault.

But the most magnificent monument in this chapel is against the east wall, where stood the altar of St. John Baptist; this was erected to the memory of Henry Carey, first cousin to Queen Elizabeth, who, on being denied the honours of peerage, laid the disappointment so much to heart, that he languished for a long time on a sick bed, at which the Queen being moved, too late, created him a Baron, and ordered the patent and robes to be laid before him, but without effect. He died on the 23d of July 1596, aged seventy-two.

Here also is a monument to Thomas Carey, second son to the Earl of Monmouth, who is said to have died of grief in 1648, at the age of thirty-three, on account of the untimely fate of his royal master King Charles I.

Here are likewise a few antique monuments, particularly one in which the figure of a Bishop properly habited, lies under a Gothic canopy. This is supposed to be erected for Thomas Rathal, Bishop of Durham, who died in 1524.

And an ancient stone monument for William of Colchester, whose effigies lie with the head supported by an angel, and the feet by a lamb.

_St. Paul’s Chapel_, has on the left hand, a lofty monument erected to the memory of Sir John Puckering, Knt. and Lord Chancellor in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, in which office he died on the 20th of April 1596. His epitaph in Latin over his effigies, is thus translated:

The publick care and laws engag’d my breast, To live was toilsome, but to die is rest; Wealth, maces, guards, crowns, titles, things that fade, The prey of Time and sable Death are made.

VIRTUE INSPIRES MEN.

His Wife this statue rears to her lov’d spouse, The test of constancy and marriage vows. _I trust I shall see the Lord in the Land of the Living._

Adjoining to this monument, is one, much decay’d, for Sir James Fullerton and his Lady, whose effigies lie upon it, and on a table of black marble is the following quaint inscription:

Here lie the Remains of Sir James Fullerton, Knt. first Gentleman of the Bedchamber to King Charles the First (Prince and King) a generous Rewarder of all Virtue, a severe Reprover of all Vice, a profest Renouncer of all Vanity. He was a firm Pillar to the Commonwealth, a faithful Patron to the Catholic Church, a fair Pattern to the British Court. He lived to the Welfare of his Country, to the Honour of his Prince, to the Glory of his God. He died _fuller_ of Faith than of Fear, _fuller_ of Resolution than of Pain, _fuller_ of Honour than of Days.

There is a monument erected to the memory of Sir James Bromley, Chancellor to Queen Elizabeth, who died on the 12th of April 1587. This monument is of alabaster, with pillars of Lydian marble gilt, and Sir James is represented lying in his Chancellor’s habit, with his four sons and four daughters kneeling on the base.

In the same chapel is a plain monument of Sir Dudley Carlton, who for his services to King James I. and King Charles I. was made Viscount Dorchester, and Secretary of State. He died on the 15th of February 1631, and is represented on his tomb sitting in a half rais’d posture.

To the east of this monument is another of alabaster to the memory of Frances the wife of Thomas Ratcliffe, Earl of Sussex, who distinguished herself by her humanity and generosity, and died on the 15th of April 1589. She is represented in a recumbent posture, resting on an embroidered cushion, dressed in robes, and with a coronet on her head.

Next to this is the monument of Francis Lord Cottington of Hanworth, who died on the 9th of June 1652, and of his Lady who died in 1633. This monument is of black touchstone, and remarkably different from every other in the Abbey, On the top is a circular frame of gilt brass, enclosing the bust of the Lady, and beneath is his Lordship on a table monument resting on his left arm, and over a satyr’s head is the inscription in English mentioning his Lordship’s titles and employments.

_St. Nicholas’s Chapel_ contains several remarkable monuments: near the entrance is one of black marble, finely polished, to the memory of the Lady Jane Clifford, youngest daughter to the Duke of Somerset, and wife to Charles Lord Clifford and Dungarvan, who died Nov. 23, 1679. This black monument is adorned with cherubims and a scroll of alabaster, whereon is written a long inscription in English, containing an account of the Lady’s descent and marriage.

By the door on the same side, is a monument of alabaster erected for Lady Cecil, the daughter of Lord Cobham, who having married Sir Robert Cecil, son to William Lord Burleigh, Treasurer of England, died in child-bed in 1591. The Latin inscription is a dialogue between herself and husband, expressing their mutual affection.

At some distance is a magnificent temple of various coloured marble, erected to the memory of Anne Duchess of Somerset, wife to Edward Duke of Somerset. She died on the 16th of April 1618, aged twenty-eight. The inscription is in Latin and English, and contains a pompous detail of the noble lineage of this great Lady, her alliances and issue.

In this chapel is likewise a very expensive monument, erected by the great Lord Burleigh, to the memory of his wife Mildred, and their daughter the Lady Anne, Countess of Oxford, representing a stately temple built with porphyry, and other kinds of marble gilt. It is divided into two compartments, one elevated over the other. In the lower lies Lady Burleigh, in a recumbent posture, with her daughter Lady Jane in her arms; and at her head and feet are her children and grand-children kneeling. In the upper compartment is the figure of a venerable old man, supposed to be the Lord Burleigh, on his knees, as if at fervent prayer. The Lady Burleigh died April 4, 1589, aged sixty-three, after being forty years married, and her daughter, the Lady Oxford, June 5, 1588. On the tomb is a long Latin inscription, explaining the figures, and displaying their respective virtues and accomplishments.

The next monument I shall mention in this chapel, is that of the Lady Winifrid, married first to Sir Richard Sackville, Knt. and afterwards to John Paulet, Marquis of Winchester. On the base are the figures of a Knight armed and kneeling, and facing him a Lady in mourning also on her knees; behind whose back lies an infant on a baptismal font with its head supported by a pillow.

In the middle of the chapel is a fine raised monument of polished marble, to the memory of Sir George Villars and his Lady, whose son was raised by King James I. to the dignity of Duke of Buckingham.

In this chapel are two beautiful pyramids; the largest erected to the memory of Nicholas Bagnal, a child of two months old, overlaid by his nurse; the other to the memory of Anna Sophia Harley, a child of a year old, daughter to the Hon. Christopher Harley Embassador to the French King. She died in the year 1600, and her father, as appears by the inscription, caused her heart to be inclosed in a cup, and placed upon the top of the pyramid.

There are also in this chapel, a monument to the memory of the Lady Elizabeth Fanes, and one or two others, scarcely worth notice.

_The Chapel of St. Edmund_, has at the entrance a lofty monument with Gothic spires erected to the memory of John of Eltham, second son to King Edward III. and so called from Eltham in Kent. His statue in armour is of white alabaster, the head incircled by a coronet. He died in Scotland at nineteen years of age, unmarried, tho’ three different matches had been proposed to him, the last of which, to Mary daughter of Ferdinand King of Spain, he accepted, but lived not to consummate it.

Next to this is a small table monument, on which lie the effigies of William of Windsor, and Blanch of the Tower, the son and daughter of Edward III. They took their surnames from the places of their birth, and both died in their infancy. They are dressed in the habits of the times, the young Prince in a short doublet, of the indecency of which Chaucer’s parson complains, and the Princess in a horned head-dress, which Stow says, was frightful.

On another tomb lies the statue of the Lady Frances, Duchess of Suffolk, represented dressed in her robes. She was the daughter of the famous Charles Brandon by Mary the French Queen, daughter to Henry VII. and became Duchess of Suffolk by marrying Henry Grey, Marquis of Dorset, who, upon her father’s decease, was created Duke of Suffolk. On her tomb are two inscriptions, the first in Latin verse in praise of her virtues, and the other in English, shewing her different marriages.