ill. A party had passed the barrier on the 7th, but at the cost of

great suffering and peril to the invalid of their company,—a report duly conveyed to us, coupled with a warning against similar temerity. _Now_—upon the 20th—we were a fixed fact, for three weeks, at the least, and had taken our measures accordingly. Matters might have been far worse. For instance, had the civil _padrone_ surmised the character of Boy’s “feverish attack,” or the dear babies B—— caught it from him. We were granted time to write up note-books, arrange photographs and herbarium-albums, and bring up long arrears of correspondence. Had we pressed on over the mountain-wall at the appointed date we should have missed the reunion with the party of eight from lower Italy from whose companionship we were drawing refreshment and sincerest pleasure.

In the center of one leaf of my floral album—right opposite a view of Bellagio and Villa Serbelloni, with the rampart of snow-capped hills rising back of it into the clouds, the shining mirror before it repeating white walls and dark woods, olive-terraces and rose-gardens,—is a single pressed blossom. It is five-petaled, gold-colored; the pistil of deepest orange protected by a thicket of amber floss. The leaves are long, stiff, and were glossy, set in pairs, the one against the other on a brown, woody stem. It grew in the grounds of the Villa Carlotta. The spray of many fountains kept the foliage green, when Bellaggio blazed most fiercely in the June suns, and the lime-walks on the Cadenabbia side were deserted. Boscages of myrtle, of lemon-trees and citron-aloe, honeysuckles, jasmine and magnolias shadowed the alleys. Calla lilies, tall and pure, gave back the moonlight from the fountain-rims, and musk-roses were wooed by the nightingales from moonrise to day-dawn.

This is what my yellow-haired princess says to me, as I unclose the book, and a waft of the perfume she brought from the enchanted regions steals forth. She was bright as the sun, clear as the day, sweeter than the magnolias, when Caput came with her, into Boy’s room the day after my moonlight reverie at the window, and gave her into my hand:

“Mr. R—— S——’s compliments and regrets that you could not join the walking-party.”

She has a page to herself,—the peerless beauty! as the episode of the four days’ visit of our transatlantic friends glows out from the pale level of our social life during our as many weeks’ lingering at Cadenabbia.

We made excursions when Boy was well enough to leave his bed, by boat, by carriage and on foot. We bought in Bellaggio more olive-wood thimble-cases, ink-stands, silk-winders, darning-eggs and paper-cutters than we shall ever get rid of on Christmases and birth-days. We visited silk-factories; penetrated the malodorous recesses of stone cottages to see the loathsome worms gorging themselves with mulberry-leaves; going into silken retirement and enforced fasting after their gluttony, and boiling by the million in a big pot, dirty peasant women catching at the loosened threads and winding them on bobbins until the dead nakedness of the spinner was exposed. We read, studied and wrote in the scorching noons and passed the evenings in walking and sailing. We did not tire of lake or country, but July was late for Italy, and my system may have absorbed poison from the Lombardy marshes. When, on the morning of July 4th, the diligence we had engaged for the journey to Porlezza drove to the door, I was supported down the stairs after a week of pain and debility, and lifted into my place in the _coupé_, or deep front seat, facing the horses.

Wedged in and stayed by cushions, I soon tested and approved the sagacity of an eminent physician’s advice to invalids—chronic and occasional. “Change air and place, instead of drugging yourself. Move as long as you can stir. When you cannot,—be _carried_! But, go!”

The air was fresh and invigorating, blowing straight from the mountains. The road wound up and over terraced hills, cultivated to the topmost ridges; through fertile valleys and delicious forest glades, gemmed with wood blossoms. It was haying time. Purple clover and meadow-grasses were swathed, drying, and stacked in a hundred fields, the succulent stems yielding under the tropical sun the balm of a thousand—ten thousand flowers. I have talked of the wild Flora of Italy until the reader may sicken at the hint of further mention of such tapestry as Nature rolled down to our wheel-tracks. Cyclamen, violets, wild peas,—daisies, always and everywhere,—edged and pearled the green carpet. The scenery changed gradually, without loss of beauty, in nearing the Lake of Lugano. Lying among pillows on the deck of the steamer we had taken at Porlezza, I noted that the very mountain shapes were unlike those environing Como, and their coloring darker. There were no more straight brows and abrupt precipices, but one conical height was linked to another, furrowed by foaming cascades, springing from crest and sides, until S. Salvador loomed up before us at the terminus of our twelve-mile sail, majestic and symmetrical, wearing a gray old convent as a bride her nuptial crown.

At the Hotel Belle Vue, on the border of the lake, we tarried two days, to rally strength for the continuous effort of the next week, more than to inspect Lugano and its suburbs. We hired here a carriage, in size and general features resembling a Concord stage. A written contract was signed by both parties. The driver, vehicle and four horses were ours until we should be delivered, baggage and bodies, upon the steamboat plying between Fluelen, at the upper end of the Lake of the Four Cantons, and the town of Lucerne. The _diligence_ was well-hung, fitted up with red velvet seats, soft and elastic; the horses were strong and true,—the driver spoke Italian—not German, which we were beginning to dread. For almost a week we were to be only passengers, free to eat, sleep and see at our will, without the fear of altered prices, extras and other sharp impositions, incessantly weighing upon our foreign-born souls.

How we climbed the Alps is too long a story to relate in detail. Maggiore, the Ticino, Bellinzona, the quiet Sabbath at Faido near the mouth of the St. Gothard tunnel, then building,—I catch the names in fluttering the leaves of our note-books, and each has its story.

Julius Cæsar fought his way from Rome to Gaul through the valley of the Ticino. The plains on each side of the classic river, as level as an Illinois prairie, are a narrow strip between the mighty ranges of snow-mountains. The meadow-farms are divided by hedge-rows and flecked with grazing flocks. Other herds are pastured high up the hill-sides in the summer, the huts of their keepers black or tawny dots, when seen from below. Every few furlongs, cataracts flash into sight, hasting by impetuous leaps, down the rocks to the river, not infrequently dispersing themselves in spray and naught, in the length and number of their bounds.

We crossed the Pass, July 9th—a cloudless day. Since early morning we had been climbing. The road is built and cut into the solid mountain, and barely wide enough to permit the skillfully-conducted passage of two diligences. It winds up and around spurs and shoulders, and is protected at the more dangerous curves and steeper cliffs by stout stone posts. The traveler eyes the thickness and obstinate expression of these with growing satisfaction as the villages below dwindle into toy-hamlets and the fields into dolls’ patchwork-quilts of divers shades of green and yellow; while he makes rapid silent calculations of the distance between them, and their relation to the length and breadth of the stage. _Could_ we go down backward, sideways, anyway, were a horse to balk, or a trace to break, or a wheel come off? Looking directly upward, we saw a tedious succession of terraces, similarly guarded; dizzy inclines that were surely inaccessible to hoof or wheel. The next hour showed us from the most incredible of these, the road from which we had surveyed it.

“I begin to comprehend ‘Excelsior,’” said Secunda, solemnly. “No wonder he died when he got to the top!”

We were nearing the snow-line. We were warmly wrapped, but the increasing frostiness of the air warned us to unfasten shawl-straps and pull from beneath the seats the carriage-rugs we had stowed away at Faido. Caput had spent as much time out of the _diligence_ as in it, in the ascent. A bed of scarlet pinks or blue gentian; a blanket of hoary moss capped with red; a clump of yellow pansies—the tiny “Marguerites” of the Alps,—branchy shrubs of rose-colored rhododendrons;—were continually-recurring temptations to leap over the wheel from his place in the _coupé_. Once out, it was hardly worth his while to get in again when, for a mile or two ahead, the like attractions, and many others, cushioned the rocks, nodded from their brows and smiled from every crevice. Now, as he came up to the side of the carriage to toss in upon us his burden of beauty, his face was reddened by cold,—not sunburned;—he struck his emptied hands smartly together to quicken the circulation, and the rime began to form upon his moustache. Scanty patches of snow no longer leaked from sheltered nooks across the road. Brown earth and barren rocks were hidden partially, then, entirely,—then, heaped over by the gray drifts. They _were_ gray,—positively grimy. Not quite as dirty as city-snow, but of a genuine pepper-and-salt that was a surprise and a disgust. From below they were as dazzlingly pure as the clouds that caught against them, with the same cold azure shadows in their clefts. We were driving now between cloven banks of packed snow,—six, twelve, twenty feet high, on which the heavens might have showered ashes for as many days and nights as darkness had brooded over Pompeii, so befouled were they. The July sun shone full upon the glistering surface, with no more perceptible effect than if the month had been December. The ingrained dust had been swept from the iron crags jutting into the snow-cutting at the next turn of the pass, and frowning upon us from yet loftier terraces. It was granitic powder, disintegrated and beaten fine by frost and blast.

Once in a while, we passed a low house with deep eaves and great stones laid upon the roof. These supplied refuge at night and in storm, to the goats browsing on Alpine moss and grasses. The herdsmen wore jackets, coats and caps of goat and sheepskin. Wiry dogs, not at all like the pictorial St. Bernard, slunk at their heels, or barked crossly at a straying kid. A clatter of hoofs and rattle of trace-chains upon the upper road prepared us for the appearance of a single horse, trotting steadily by us in the direction from which we had come.

“Has there been an accident?” we inquired.

We might see a coach rolling back upon us next. The driver explained that the summit of the Pass was but a mile or two ahead; that the fourth horse was not needed in the descent and was accordingly released from each _diligence_ at the post-house at the top, and sent home by himself.

He was a saturnine “whip,”—for one who spoke Italian—but he smiled grimly at the next question; “Will he certainly find his way home? Will nobody try to stop, or steal him?”

“It is an everyday affair, Signorina. His supper is at the foot of the hill. Who should stop him, since everybody knows to whom he belongs and whither he goes?”

Peering over the edge of the precipice from my window, I saw the trained creature, already two hundred feet below our level, trotting at the same even gait, down the zigzag highway. Before we had gone half-a-mile further, a second met and passed us, harness on, the traces hooked up out of the way of his heels, going downward at the regulation rate of speed, neither faster nor slower than his predecessor. It was at this point that a volley of soft snow-balls flew against and into the carriage, and from their ambush, behind a drifted heap, emerged Caput and Prima, rosy with laughter and the sharp air. They had left the carriage an hour ago to walk directly across the ice-fields to this height, a straight track of two miles, while we had toiled and doubled over more than six to the rendezvous.

Snow-balling in July! The story of the “three little boys who went out to slide, All on a summer’s day,” need not have been fictitious if they were St. Gothardites. In a trice, Secunda had torn off entangling rugs and was upon the ground, and Boy halloaing vociferously to be allowed a share in the sport. The driver sat upon the box, gazing at his horses’ ears, unmoved by the whizzing missiles, merry shrieks and deafening detonations from the frozen rocks. I was cramped by long sitting, even in my luxurious nest upon the back seat. I would get out. The snow was not white, but it was snow. I longed to feel it crisp and crunch under my feet.

“Is it quite prudent?” remonstrated Miss M——, gently.

“Come on!” encouraged the revelers.

After a dozen trial-steps, I boldly avowed my intention to walk to the nearest curve in the road. Caput gave me his arm and we sent the coach on with the others. The ground was smooth as a skating-pond, but not so slippery. A mountain-wall, five hundred feet high, arose in sheer perpendicular at our left.

“Take it slowly!” cautioned my escort. “You are weak, and the air highly rarefied.”

_That_, then, was the reason why respiration passed rapidly from difficulty to pain. I should get used to it soon, and to the horrible aching in my right lung. But, when, having walked beyond the lee of the rocky rampart, the breeze from a neighboring glacier struck us in the face, I thought breath was gone forever. In vain Caput, turning my back to the wind, sheltered me with his broad shoulders and assured me the pain would be short-lived. The agony of suffocation went on. I had but one distinct recollection in the half-death:

“A traveler died, last year, near the top of the Pass from _collapse of the lungs_!” a gentleman had said to another one evening at the hotel as I passed through the hall.

I had scarcely thought of it again until now, when I was dying in the same way. I heard Caput’s shout to the driver; saw mistily the entire party tumble out into the snow, and Prima, plunging down a steep bank to reach us the sooner,—brandy-bottle in hand. As if swallowing were easier than breathing! They got me into my nest again; wound me up in shawls and rugs; poured some wine down my throat; chafed my hands, and, after an age of misery, the tiniest whiff of breath found entrance to the laboring lungs, as when a closed bellows is slowly opened.

The driver, during all this commotion, sat, rigid as the nearest Alp, without abating his scrutiny of his leaders’ ears. Collapsing lungs were no novelty and no terror to him, and none of his business. He had contracted to deliver us, alive or dead—(and our luggage,) upon the deck of the Fluelen steamer within a week, for and in consideration of the sum of so many hundred francs. That was all he knew or cared about the matter. He loosened one of our horses at the post-house on the summit, and the patient beast trotted off down the mountain in the convoy of a dog chained to his collar. The cold was now piercing; the never-thawed ice of the lake before the Hospice, blue and hard as steel. Caput added to his adjurations to haste, a gratuity that touched a chord of natural feeling in the wooden man. He fairly raced down the other side of the mountain, spinning around curves and grating upon the wheel-brakes while our hair stood on end and our teeth were on edge. Down defiles between heights that held up the heavens on each side; on the verge of precipices with the wheels almost scraping upright rocks on the left and grazing the outermost edge on the right; thundering over bridges and flying through the spray of waterfalls, we plunged, ever downward—until, at sunset, we whirled out into the open plain and into the yard of the Hotel Belle Vue at Andermatt.

In ten minutes more, I lay, smothering in the well of one feather-bed, another upon me, and was cold withal. A Swiss maid was building a fire in the stove, within four feet of the bolster. The Invaluable and the spirit-lamp were brewing a comforting cup of tea upon the round stand at my side.

The hotel was excellent, being clean, commodious, well-provisioned and handsomely-appointed as to furniture and service. The rest of the party used it as a center for all-day excursions to the Furca Pass and the Rhone Glacier, while I lay in bed, too worn and miserable to be more than feebly diverted by scraps of conversation that arose to my windows from the piazza and lawn. Such, for example as this:

_English Voice_—feminine and fat. “I _guess_ you are an American boy, stranger!”

_Boy._ “What makes you think so?”

_E. V._ “Oh! I judge—I mean, I guess—by the cut of you.”

_Boy_ (who never “guesses”—) “And I judge you are English. I can tell them wherever I see them.”

_E. V._ “How—I should like to know?”

_Boy_ (knowing and sententious). “Americans are white and thin. English are fat and red.”

_E. V._ “Upon me word! _You_ are not very white, I am sure!”

_Boy._ “Ah! but if you had seen me when I had the measles at Cadenabbia! _Misericordia!_ I was as red as you!”

This chapter has two morals for those whom they may concern.

To Traveling Americans and those who hope to become such: Heed wisely Nature’s emphatic or hinted “_Non é possible!_” Do not attempt the St. Gothard or Simplon Pass if you have unsound lungs or heart.

To the Average Briton: A monkey is better at cutting capers than an elephant.