Part 2

A mind which is struck, through the medium of sight, with impressions of sublimity, will have those impressions strengthened in proportion as the _magnitude_ of the object viewed is the greater, and as all things are but great or small _comparatively_, it follows, of course, that bodies of the same class, description, or affinity, which are _less_ than the _largest_, must suffer, when brought into the scale of comparison with their superiors: agreeably to these rules, the JOLLIFFE, whose dimensions exceed all others, comes forward with strong claims to patronage, for besides the importance with which it never fails to strike every beholder, it is sure to convey a corresponding importance to the WEARER. Here then are considerations which should not be trifled with, particularly as the _assumption_ of a thing is often taken for the thing itself—nay, are there not situations in life where _appearances_ become so vitally important that it would be little short of criminality not to _put them on_? and where the attainment of great ends may be insured by nothing more than a simple attention to the _formation_ of a _Hat_, it would be worse than folly to neglect the means. Rightly taken, what a multiplicity of persons might be benefitted by the above _hints_; Princes, Peers, and Plenipotentiaries; Senators, State-ministers, or Trading Politicians;—all—all may find their interest in the adoption of the Jolliffe; and that these great personages may not plead ignorance as to the manner in which it should be worn with the best effect, here follow the proper instructions.

If a PRINCE, let it be _lightly_ placed on the head, and a little _aside_, which _bespeaks a sort of cheerful approving_ confidence in one’s own actions.—If a PEER, it should be worn in a firm horizontal position, just covering half the forehead; which gives the appearance of a wise and steady determination where great questions are agitated, particularly when they become _self_ interesting.—If an AMBASSADOR, it may be thrown a _little back_, inclining somewhat aside; such position indicating a bold and careless indifference to all around, which will be taken for granted that such could not arise from any other cause than a total disregard for the _result_ of his mission; a practice, although not often hit on, may have many advantages. As to the three _latter_ characters, their pursuits having all the same end—POPULARITY—let them consult the style of the Prince, and remember that, in whomsoever confidence has credit, popularity is sure to follow.

⸪ As the Jolliffe is not likely to be worn unless for _special purposes_, to give an idea who would best become it is unnecessary.

THE FOUR-IN-HAND.

A modern-styled _whip_, Howe’er he may dip Into fashion’s wide vortex his _pinions_, To make a bold stand, LLOYD’S prime _Four-in-Hand_ Must cover his _upper dominions_.

For ease, form, and _set_, The like never yet Was seen, at least so run opinions; Then ye four-in-hand whips, In your _jarvey_-like trips Take care of your _upper dominions_.

_DIMENSIONS_.

It measures, by rule, Near three inches full In the brim, with a crown wide at top; Nor is there a _face_ But what it will _grace_, If purchased at LLOYD’S _fancy shop_.

A BIT OF BLOOD.

The term itself naturally implies a something upon a _small_ scale, which is the fact, and although there is nothing of that imposing dignity of style in the above Hat, which characterizes the _Regent_, the _Petersham_, &c. there is a _lively_, _animated_, and _vigorous_ fire in all its features, that will not allow of any falling off in the general comparison. To give a complete catalogue of the many VIRTUES belonging to _a bit of blood_, would exceed the allotted limits; but it cannot be amiss to detail a few of the more _prominent_, that all, whose necessities may bear to the point, should be _benefitted_ by the _wearing_: First then, it is admirably calculated for those who are about to ask _favors_, such being more readily _granted_ when they seem the _less wanted_, and no one could suppose that the _saucy_ animation which would be so strongly visible under this Hat could make the application from NECESSITY. Secondly, it will be of singular advantage to _elderly gentlemen_ in pursuit of _young wives_, who nine times in ten decide on the choice of a man from the _cock_—of his Hat. Thirdly, (not that there is much need of it for such a purpose now-a-days) its advantages for those that are tormented with _dunns_ are incalculable, for, by being placed pretty firm on the head, inclining rather to one side, at the same time assuming a sharp _erect_ position of the body, a stern direction of the eye, and arms _a-kimbo_, the devil himself, in the shape of a _creditor_, would hardly hazard the REPETITION OF A VISIT.

_N. B._ No service to gentlemen of the _learned_ profession.

THE

_PROCESS_

OF

HAT-MAKING

EXPLAINED,

WITH PREFATORY REMARKS, &c. &c.

TURKS are said to assign as a reason for not wearing Hats, that they are put together by _witchcraft_. There is certainly a great deal of ingenuity in the practice, and some _effects_ produced whose _causes_ are as yet unexplained: but, with all due deference to these _turban gentlemen_, it is presumed that they have objections beyond what is above stated, some of which are as follows:—_First_, their country is destitute of the most essential material—FUR. _Second_, the climate being extremely sultry, stoves, irons, and scalding water are not likely to become favourites. _Thirdly_, being compelled by their religion to keep their heads _close shaved_, a Hat, above all human inventions, would be the most ridiculous covering _they_ could adopt.

There are many opinions as to the time Hats were first invented, and, very probably, all equally erroneous. Some carry the date as far back as the foundation of Christianity, attributing the merit to St. Luke, of whom it is said, that he, having tender feet, put a layer of hair or fur between them and his sandals, in which situation friction and moisture caused such an interweaving of particles, that the whole became strongly united, or (technically called) FELTED. Whether the story, as applied to Luke, be true or false, is immaterial; but that such did happen with some one, is very likely; nor is it at all unlikely, but that an occurrence of this kind did really give the first idea of Hat-making. Having remarked thus much, I shall next proceed to state, what is not the less true than surprising, which is, that of the various branches of manufacture which this country is so highly distinguished for, none are less understood than Hat-making; nay, there is not one person in fifty who, if he were asked the question, could tell whether a Hat was or was not a _woven_ substance; nor is there one in 500 but what suppose that the _skin_ of a hare or rabbit is worked with the fur _attached_ to it, as in the natural state; and, to form a correct judgment of the external material, when manufactured, whether it be hair, wool, or beaver, although many pretend, none are really competent but those _experienced_ in the _trade_.

To show the absurd notions some entertain on this matter, I state as a fact, that I do not know a manufacturer or seller in the trade but what has been applied to, by some one or other, to have a _Beaver_ Hat made from a _hare_’s skin. Nay, I remember once offending a very good customer, and a man not wanting for sense either, by an involuntary burst of laughter, on his presenting the skin of a _French lap-dog_ for the very same purpose.

It is no uncommon thing for persons who are on pretty good terms with their capabilities to give opinions as to the _merits_ or _demerits_ of a Hat; which opinions are as opposite to the true state of the case as the sun’s rays to a state of darkness. I shall give an instance, although a trifling one, of a very common error among persons who _suppose_ themselves to have a knowledge of the subject, which is this, if the picker has not a very good eye, some of the larger hairs will be left in the Hat, and consequently the most _visible_; these are directly termed “_grey hairs_,” when the truth is, that they are the _blackest_ in the whole composition; but being thicker than the general mass, they receive a greater portion of _light_, which is mistaken for a grey colour: an easy method of proving the fact is to pull one of these _grey hairs_ from the Hat, and place it on a piece of white paper, the _contrast_ will decide the question.

Again, whatever produces a glutinization of the NAP, is said to be the effect of the stiffening; this is not true in every case, for it is frequently owing to improper management in placing the Hat, when wet, before a large fire, which should never be done; the better way is, if very wet, to hang it up without brushing or wiping, and when dry it is easily put to rights, by gently passing over a clothes brush: if only slightly wet, wipe it with a handkerchief, and, when dry, it will brush clean. But the great fault with most persons is to put on their Hats, day after day, in the same _dirty state_ as when taken off at night; from which it is natural to infer, that there must be a vast accumulation of dirt; it is this dirt, when exposed to the rain, that forms a sort of cement, or paste, having all the appearance of what is commonly called “_gum_.”

Another proof of erroneous judgment—Profuse perspiration of the head is what many are subject to; by reason of which, from the frequency of wearing, and the _porosity_ of the Hat, there is a continual absorption of moisture going on until it becomes completely _saturated_, particularly in front, the consequence is, that the nap lies buried in a greasy matter, which matter is also, but very inappropriately termed _gum_ or _stiffening_, when in point of fact it is _neither_, for the very same effect would, under the like circumstances, be produced, and in much less time, if the Hat were not stiffened at all. The best remedy for this is a piece of thin flannel under the leather, and that frequently changed.

There is nothing so detrimental to a Hat as a severe exposure to rain on the first, second, or even third time of wearing; for this reason, the materials wherewith it is composed are in a manner quite _green_, and require _seasoning_; to effect which it should be frequently put on in dry weather. I have always found that a Hat, constantly worn for five or six weeks _without being wet_, underwent every sort of hardship afterwards with little or no injury, retaining at the same time its beauty—form—and wearing _three times longer_ than it otherwise would have done. It may be asked, why not, to prevent accidents, render the Hat _water-proof_? that is, impervious to the action of either atmosphere or rain. The thing is easy enough, I admit; but where there is a choice of only _two evils_, it is always best to select the _least_. We all know (or should know) that if a man were to enclose himself, arms, legs, and body, in what is called an _oil-skin dress_, and that drawn close round the neck, the whole tightly fitted to every part of his person as a Hat is to the head, the most unpleasant consequences would ensue; the cause why is obviously this, the exhalations of the body, particularly in a state of exertion, would when so _enclosed_, be either prevented from flying off, as nature requires, or otherwise checked altogether; precisely so with the head if the porosity of the Hat was destroyed, which it must be to resist effectually the action of water. This deduction must be so clear and self-evident that further reasoning is unnecessary. Another great objection against water-proof _Hats_ is, that the ingredients made use of for such purposes, when exposed to the sun’s heat, are so acted upon as to cause a _decomposition_ of the colour, and nine times in ten, the Hat, before it is half worn out, becomes any thing but what it was meant to be.

It is astonishing to hear the number of qualifications a Hat is _said_ to have, and each as opposite to the other as it is possible for any two things to be; some, for instance, maintain that it cannot be good unless it is _light_, others again will decidedly condemn it for _being so_, insisting that the chief recommendation is its being firm and _stout_. All that is requisite to be observed on this, is that _weight_ has no more to do with the _quality_ of a Hat, than the situation of prime minister has to do with the cramming of turkies. A very inferior Hat may be made _equally light_ with the most superior, and in both cases the cost of manufacture will be less than if they were made _stout_.

The length of the beaver too is another point on which the difference of opinion is often experienced; many are for very _short naps_, declaring all others to be outrageously vulgar; but the majority of wearers seem best pleased with _long_ naps, which always _take_ and _retain_ the best _black_, while, on the contrary those that are very short never do. A medium between the two is the most preferable.

Having stated thus much, I shall next proceed to explain in what way a fine Hat is _made_, describing as accurately as possible the various processes it undergoes, as also the materials with which it is composed, the proportions of each as well as the quantity of work a man is capable of doing, whether _maker_ or _finisher_, in a week, the amount of wages, together with some of the curious regulations, by-laws, &c. &c. &c.

In the first place, as I shall have occasion to mention a few of the _implements_ by name, a short description of them may not be amiss.

There is the BOW, which in form is not unlike what is used for playing on a _double bass_, but in length and thickness is equal to a constable’s staff; there is a bridge at each end, from one to the other of which is tightly strung a stout line of _catgut_.

The HURDLE is situate in what is called the bow garret, and is a sort of _table_, on which the _fur_ is bowed, or mixed, having the farther end and sides enclosed to prevent the material from being blown away.

The BATTERY is somewhat like the hopper of a mill, in this is contained the hot _liquor_, and is mostly constructed for eight men, _round_ which they stand when _making_; the lower part is lead, the upper or working part mahogany. All batteries are formed into divisions called PLANKS, one of which is allotted to each man. There are many other little things used by makers, but these three are all that deserve particular notice.

The first thing a maker looks for in the morning is the FUR, or raw material, which is furnished to him by _weight_; the quantity being more or less, according to the substance of the Hat required, and is in _two_ parcels, one of which contains the BEAVER, or napping; the other the BODY (a proportionate scale of both will be seen hereafter). Thus provided he takes it to the BOW GARRET; the materials for the body are first placed on the hurdle, and the bow being hung at the centre for support, is held in the left hand horizontally, so that the catgut may come in contact with the fur; in the _right_ hand is placed a small piece of stick, with a _nut_ at the end, and in this position the work begins after the following manner. The _catgut_ of the bow (being first placed in the midst of the _fur_) is pulled or struck with the knotted stick, which produces, from a quick repetition of the stroke, a continued _vibration_, this _vibration_ it is that causes a separation or _flitting_ of the fur, at the same time mixing and cleansing it. This operation is continued until such ends are fully attained. It is next divided into _halves_, one of which is laid aside, and the other again bowed over. In this second operation the workman contrives, partly by bowing, and partly by a slight _wicker frame_, to bring the material into an oblong form, and equal in size to a large sheet of cartridge paper; this is called a BAT, and when done it is gently _pressed down_ by the _wicker_, after which a damp linen cloth is laid all over, and on this again is placed a thick piece of dry HORSE HIDE; the workman now begins to press hard on the hide for about five minutes; in the doing this the fur adheres close to the damp cloth, into which it is _doubled up_, and once more undergoes the pressure of the hand. Under this operation (which is called BASONING) the _bat_ becomes _consolidated_, and may be thrown, when taken out of the cloth, from one end of the garret to the other without injury. The second half is next bowed, formed into a _bat_, and _basoned_ as the first. This half _remains_ on _the hurdle_, and a piece of _paper_, somewhat conical, is placed on it, _over which_, and agreeable to the shape, the sides of the bat are _doubled_. Here then is formed one half of the _body_, this is laid aside, and the first bat is then put flat on the hurdle _on which_ the one previously doubled is placed with its open part downwards; the lower bat being transversely doubled over the top hat, forms a sort of conical, or harlequin’s cap; in this state it is once more put into the damp cloth, where it receives another hardening for the purpose of uniting or _knitting_ both _bats_ together; after this it is folded into the compass of _two hands_, ready for the _plank_. The next thing is the _beaver_, or covering, which is bowed in _form_ to correspond with the _body_, but has nothing to do with it in this stage.

Matters being completed thus far, this is called the _first process of Hat-making_. The second commences as follows:—The workman having gone from the bow garret to the making shop, takes his stand at the battery, under which is a FIRE, for the purpose of heating the liquor;[1] into this hot liquor the _body_ is quickly _immersed_, where it remains till soaked through; it is afterwards laid on the _plank_ to _drain_ and _cool_; this done, it is unfolded, gently rolled, turned at short intervals in every direction, to prevent the sides uniting together; and as the _liquor_ becomes _cold_ and rolled out, it is continually supplied with _hot_ and fresh, by the sprinkling of a _brush_, which is dipped in the _kettle_ for that purpose; under this operation, assisted by the astringency of the _vitriol_, the body _shrinks_, and begins to assume a tough _substance_. When it has shrunk to a _certain size_ (say three-fifths, if to be _double_ covered), it is laid flat on the _plank_, and the _first_ coat of _beaver_, as it comes from the _bow_, is laid quite over it; the _brush_ is now dipped into the hot liquor, the contents of which is sprinkled all over the _beaver_, directly afterwards it is gently _patted down_ with the hot brush; here the body is put into a _hair-cloth_, rolled in hot liquor, turned inside out, rolled again until the _beaver_, is completely worked into the body; when this is effected, it is in a fit state to receive the _second_ covering, which is put on as the first, the _working_, _turning_, _patting_, and _rolling_ still continuing until it is reduced to a fit dimension, the _beaver_ quite _clean_, and all together assuming a closely _felted_, fine, solid piece of workmanship; after which it is immediately _blocked_ in this same liquor, to the size wanted, and put into a _stove_ to dry, from whence it is taken, and with a small fine card the beaver is gently raised; without this, one half would lie buried, and the beauty lost.—Here then is the complete PROCESS OF HAT-MAKING.

Footnote 1:

The liquor, which is always kept up to _scalding_ heat, is nothing more than clean soft water, with a wine glass of _vitriol_, and a small quantity of beer dregs thrown in. The first is to _shrink_ the body of the Hat in working; the other to destroy the _pernicious_ effect of the vitriol.

It is next sent to the DYER from whom it passes to the FINISHER, who, after stiffening, blocking, and _half_ finishing, sends it to be picked, which is performed by a woman, whose place it is to pull out the _kemps_ or thick hairs, without injuring the beaver,[2] although that is not always accomplished. From the _picker_ it returns to the finisher who, by the IRON and velvet cushion, gives it those highly brilliant and admired beauties that an English Hat is so pre-eminently distinguished for. The shaper next takes it in hand, who is guided in his operations by the _fancy_ of the wearer, if bespoke, which is sometimes a little _whimsical_. After shaping, it goes to the _trimmer_, from whom it is returned to the TIPPER OFF; he gets it ready for wearing; it is then sent to its destination, when the master, if he is _fortunate_, puts the amount into his pocket.[3]

Footnote 2:

It has frequently been asked, why not make a Hat with _beaver only_, the answer is, there is not sufficient _stamina_ or strength in it to become a sound _felted_ substance. It would be worse than building a _brick_ house without _mortar_ or some sort of cement, to bind the whole together.

Footnote 3:

Some have payment _before_-hand, which brings out the following old, but very foolish saying, “there are but _two_ bad paymasters, _he_ who pays beforehand, and _he_ who _never_ pays.” How the latter can be a _paymaster_ requires some little ingenuity to determine.

THE

LAWS AND CUSTOMS

OF

JOURNEYMEN HATTERS.

TO enter _fully_ into the various regulations and forms that the “_trade_” have, from time to time, instituted and acted upon, would of itself fill a volume; all that can be done then in this small work will be to give the best possible outline of such matters as are most likely to interest those who may wish for information on the subject. The most important laws of this trade are these:—

_First_—No man shall work as a _maker_ or _finisher_, unless he has served an apprenticeship of seven years to what is called a “_fair master_.”

_Second_—To be a fair master, and entitled, according to the rules of the trade, to take an apprentice, he must have manufactured his _own Hats_, seven years prior to the _taking_, or otherwise have served a fair seven years’ apprenticeship himself to the trade.

_Third_—Whether there be one, two, or more in a manufacturing firm, that firm are not to have more than two apprentices at one time.

_Fourth_—There are a number of masters who do not manufacture their own “_stuff_,” but are employed by “_Great Houses_,” who, although they have a right, by law, to take apprentices, yet those apprentices, by reason of their masters not working their _own materials_, are never admitted to stand by the side of _fair men_, on which account they must ever continue _foul_, and debarred of the usual privileges, or submit to a _second_ apprenticeship. This is a case that frequently occurs; indeed it is no uncommon thing to see a man with a wife and half a dozen children, himself near thirty years old, serving a second apprenticeship for a fair time; the hardship of this must be admitted, inasmuch as it is punishing a man for a fault he never committed.

_Fifth_—A _foul man_ is one that has not served his apprenticeship agreeably to the rule of the trade, or has been guilty of some act detrimental to the _supposed_ interests of the journeymen in general. These are called “KNOBSTICKS.”