Part 1
LLOYD’S
_TREATISE ON HATS_,
WITH
TWENTY-FOUR ENGRAVINGS;
CONTAINING
NOVEL DELINEATIONS OF HIS VARIOUS SHAPES, SHEWING THE MANNER IN WHICH THEY SHOULD BE WORN, THE SORT OF FACE AND PERSON BEST SUITED TO EACH PARTICULAR HAT, AND RULES FOR THEIR PRESERVATION; TO WHICH IS ADDED, THE WHOLE PROCESS OF HAT-MAKING; TOGETHER WITH THE CUSTOMS AND REGULATIONS OF JOURNEYMEN HATTERS, AND OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION.
_Dedicated, with Permission, to the Head._
SECOND EDITION.
_LONDON_:
PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR, _By F. Thorowgood, 9, Addle-Street, Aldermanbury_.
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1819.
PREFACE.
TO what trifles do some men owe a perpetuation of their “_famous memory_.” There is Nimrod, for instance, not but what he may have had other and _greater_ merits, yet he is best known as a “_mighty hunter_,” and one who “wore _boots_;” now, allowing the relation to be true, and that he _did_ hunt, and he _did_ wear boots, is there anything extraordinary attaching to either, unless indeed, it could be proved that he had _wooden legs_, or that he was capable of sitting on the backs of two or more animals at one time; and if such were not the case, the simple fact of itself was never worth recording; as well may it be said, a thousand years hence, that LLOYD _was a great Hatmaker, and lived in a great City_.
But possibly the hunting system of this _old gentleman_ differed materially from the pastime of our modern _Tally-ho’s_, and instead of running after _hares_, _snipes_, and _conies_, Nimrod’s sport was on the _field of battle_; in whose days the most rational idea is, that all was _game_ which caused pursuits, and all pursuits _hunting_: If it were not so, and his majesty’s capability only extended to the _riding_ upon a _horse’s back_, there is not a butcher’s boy, in any country village between BERWICK and ST. IVES, that would not have ridden Nimrod’s _rump_ off. But it may be asked by those whose inclinations and patience shall lead them to hunt through the following pages, whether this is what it professes to be, a PREFACE, which is supposed to explain, or prepare the mind for something to come; the answer to which is as follows: A horse that will not _go_ without another being led before him, is not worth _riding_, and if what is herein written requires a Preface to render it _intelligible_, it is not worth the _reading_.
_May, 1819._
JOHN BULL.
THE greatest difficulty a painter has professionally to encounter is to produce a striking resemblance of a countenance where there are no striking features: just so with the Hat called “JOHN BULL.” It has no marked style of peculiarity in the formation; but, independent of the _fine texture_, there is in it a combination of rare qualities not often met with: for instance—it has in appearance strong marks of becoming gravity—a bold but manly dignity—a pleasing diffidence, with a conscious, yet unassuming importance—and is recommended to persons somewhat robust in form, features full and round, with a complexion not too dark. In wearing, it should neither be placed aside, thrown too far back, nor brought particularly forward over the face, for the following reasons—the first position would bespeak an air of _non challance_—the second a sort of slovenly neglect in the person—and the third an incommunicative sullenness of disposition.
THE WELLINGTON.
SO called from the great Hero; not for the popularity of the name alone, but for the reason that such a Hat was actually worn by him; and, in fact, it is a shape uncommonly well suited both to his face and person; the former being a sort of _long oval_, and the latter without the least appearance of _bulk_: indeed a ponderous body, tall or short, with a round, or what is vulgarly termed a pudding face, cannot judiciously shelter itself under a Wellington. This Hat is not only particularly _becoming_ the _person_ of his Grace, but there is that in its appearance which is strongly characteristic of his great mind; for, to an excellently formed crown of about seven inches deep, overspreading an inch at top, there is united a fine arched brim of small dimensions, taking a smartish sweep of the fourth part of a circle, and when placed on the head somewhat _a la Francais_, carries with it an uncommon degree of brilliancy and fire: and the fore and hind parts terminating in a close _point_, clearly shows that, whether _advancing_ or _retreating_, this modern CÆSAR is always sure to _carry_ his point.
THE TANDEM.
This is a Hat wherein is displayed a good deal of what may be termed _character;_ for which reason, its _becoming_ wearers, comparatively speaking, will be few in number; but notwithstanding this _marked_ peculiarity, there is a sort of _style_ in its general feature which is uncommonly _striking;_ nor is there any form whatever, where so much of that airy lightness is to be seen, as in the Tandem. Few persons over _thirty_ become this Hat, and none under _twenty_, and even _between_ those ages, if the head be more than twenty-two inches, or less than twenty-one and a half in circumference, the whole effect is destroyed. Shape of the face immaterial, provided the complexion is not _too_ dingy; but, above all things, neither _overgrown_ or little _fat_ gentlemen should wear the Tandem. To have the best effect when on the head, it should be placed rather forward, inclining a little to one side.
THE TALLY-HO.
A very comfortable and convenient hunting Hat, partaking in some degree the natural formation of the head: has many advantages over the old fashioned cap; is _light_, though strong—_porous_, which allows the heat of the head, arising from exertion, to fly off—and _elastic_, the effect of which is to sit close without pressure; but, above all, it has a most gentlemanly appearance, which it never fails to communicate to the wearer, particularly if he be a true sportsman.
THE SHALLOW.
A Hat more admired for the ease and simplicity of style than for any peculiar character in its general appearance; being low in the crown, it is worn to most advantage by tall thin gentlemen with very large heads; and as the fore and hind part of the brim is _set_ nearly horizontal from the base of the crown, it has two great advantages; the first of which is, that it may be conveniently worn over a wig; and, secondly, if worn _without_, the shirt collar is kept clean much longer than usual. This Hat, to have its proper effect, should be placed on the head with a strict _formality of set_, which in many persons will beget an air of _importance_. N. B. The late Justice Addington generally wore a shallow.
THE COBURG.
FOR _style_ and _form_ has strong claims to favour; but, being rather small in appearance, the wearer, to show to most advantage, should be somewhat slender in his make, features not too prominent, and in stature about five feet five to five feet ten, but neither _above_ nor _below_. One great advantage attending this Hat is, that the shape of the wearer’s _nose_ is not at all material, provided it be not of that class known by the term “bottled.” It may be worn a little aside, but by no means placed too far on the head, a failing very general among _country_ gentlemen.
THE MARQUIS.
A well-proportioned Hat in every respect, and may, not inaptly, be termed the _Universal_, as it becomes most persons who wear it; in point of form, there is nothing of what may be called _character_ or _singularity_ in its appearance, and has the rare property of giving to the _wearer_ a sort of dignified affability, a courteous condescension, together with an agreeable modesty, at least in _appearance_. It is named after a certain nobleman, who has all the above qualities united, although in the _prime of life_. To show to advantage on the head, this Hat should not go lower than the tip of the ears, both of which it may barely touch, unless the wearer has a short neck, in that case it must be worn somewhat aside, touching one ear only, but by no means to be _thrown back_.
THE ECCENTRIC.
_Unique_ in its way, strongly embodying the name in its _form_. This Hat is particularly recommended to gentlemen (and many are to be found) who hold their understandings libelled by acting, thinking, speaking, or dressing like _other men_; but, it must be observed, that slender persons with _dark_ countenances, and about the middle size, best become these Hats: for, however eccentric a man would wish to appear, by adopting any _peculiar_ mode of dress, he never can hope to succeed unless nature has done a _little_ for him; it follows then of course, that a tall or short man, if he be stout and well grown, with a fine open florid countenance, cannot cleverly become an _Eccentric_; but an _agreeable_ contorsion of the eye, a trifling disagreement in the symmetry of the shoulders, or a slight _bias_ of the body _right_ or _left_, are indescribable advantages in giving full effect to this Hat, which may be worn a little on one side, with a gentle inclination over the eyes, unless they are playing at cross purposes, in the event of which it must be thrown quite back, to give effect to their _playful humour_.
THE REGENT.
A finely-formed and most decidedly elegant Hat: is somewhat upon a large scale, the crown being upwards of seven inches high, much yeoman, with an excellently turned and corresponding brim, producing together a happy union of the nicest proportions: It is worn to most advantage by persons whose height and bulk are above the common stature; not that it is meant to be understood, that every athletic or robust form would _become_ a Regent; on the contrary, there is not a shape in the whole catalogue that demands in the wearer a greater share of _external requisites_ than this; even the very _gait_ is concerned, which, to strike, should be stately and firm, though easy, each step measuring exactly half the length of the whole body—more would become an absolute _stride_—and less a mere _strut_; than which nothing can be farther removed from graceful _carriage_: Be it understood, also, that the Regent is most becoming when placed a little on the _right_ side, but by no means to come _within_ half an inch of the ear—unless the latter should exceed its fair dimensions—in that case it were best hid altogether; but then, to do this, the Hat is forced beyond the proper position, and what was intended as ornament, becomes the very reverse: So circumstanced, the Noble Lord, the Shallow, or the John Bull, might be worn to most advantage; but when Nature has been a little attentive to the minuter parts, as well as the greater proportions of manly exterior, the Regent cannot fail to give additional dignity to the wearer; creating thereby a combination of elegancies that must render his appearance absolutely IRRESISTIBLE.
THE KENT.
A very gentlemanly Hat, and although there is not the dignity of the Regent about it, there is, notwithstanding, much to admire: Indeed, the scale of proportions are very similar in both; the only _real_ difference existing in the _crown_, which is about one-half of an inch lower than the latter; and, in the _nautical phraseology_, may not inaptly be termed a Regent cut down. It is very singular, and worth remarking, that trifling as the Kent differs from the Regent in actual measurement, the contrariety of effect, when on the head, is great and striking; which unquestionably proves, that a very slight deviation from a given rule will produce results more opposed to each other than the deviation is to the rule itself. The style in which this Hat should be worn is as follows:—if the head be of an _oval_ form, place it thereon, as near as possible, in an horizontal position; but if a _round_ head (which of all descriptions is most dreaded by a _castermonger_) let the Hat be thrown a _little_ back, with a slight inclination on the side most agreeable, which will tend to prevent its assuming that _trencher_-like appearance too common from such causes. The _personal_ requisites suitable to the Kent, may be found on referring to the Cobourg; with this difference, that, as the brim is of larger dimensions, the wearer, if he pleases, may be six feet high.
THE CUMBERLAND.
THIS Hat, in outline and symmetry, is highly prepossessing, and will always have a number of admirers. The formation, dimensions, and style of the brim, are similar to the Regent and the Kent; but the crown is _taper_ and much _shallower_ than either. It should be worn as nearly horizontal as possible; and, if the wearer be of the middle stature, or above, his bulk or countenance is immaterial.
THE VIS-A-VIS.
A remarkably STYLISH HAT, possessing great and _peculiar_ advantages over most others, on which account its claims to patronage are of the highest order. The brim, before as well as behind, being brought down quite square, and almost in a perpendicular line with the crown itself, gives the wearer an opportunity of observing things _en passant_, by a sort of side-glance, without being _seen_ so to do; thus, it is well adapted for gentlemen who would fain indulge in the most exquisite admiration of the beauteous _fair_: but by reason of their extreme _modesty_, shrink from the trial: There is, also, another and a very important consideration, which cannot be allowed to pass unnoticed—it is a well-known truth, that there are certain situations in life where the falling into is not at all times to be avoided; the result of which is, to create in the imagination, a perpetual apprehension lest some villainous intruder should, in defiance of eloquence or inclination, _compel_ the _acceptance_ of his official or rather _officious_ attendance: to counteract so dirty a custom, as well as to nip the system in the very _bud_, this Hat is most admirably contrived—for by a simple elevation of the hinder part, the front may be brought so far over the face, as to form a complete shade for the countenance. Here then is the attainment of two _great_ ends—modesty encouraged, and impertinence restrained. Lastly, and not the least of its useful purposes is, that should the introduction of the Vis-a-Vis become general, those novel and graceful evolutions of the body, denominated the _bend_, the _flutter_, and the _poke_, may be performed in a much smaller space than usual, and without the least danger to the eyes, which is greatly to be feared, when the distinguished votaries, in the eager performance of these newly-imported civilities, are brought too abruptly _face to face_.
Although there is much of the _dash_ in this Hat, it has, notwithstanding, a sort of _sombre_ appearance, which calls on the wearer for a _figure_ and _countenance_ to correspond; it is therefore, if _ornamentally_ considered, recommended to such only, whose complexion is of a darkish hue, visage long, not over bulky in person, and _above_ the middle size; but, if _usefully_ considered, all the nicer distinctions must yield to imperious necessity.
THE PETERSHAM.
A connoisseur examining a fine painting, was asked by a bye-stander, which part he most admired; his answer was, “_no part_.” “What!” observed the other, “is it possible that so highly talented a production as this is acknowledged to be, can have no merits in your estimation?” To which the connoisseur replied—“Sir, a work so masterly in execution—so striking in effect—so perfect in _all_ its parts, cannot be truly estimated but as a _whole_.” Here, then, the _picture_ is the _Petersham_—the _selection_ of beauties therein, the _difficulty_: To get rid of which, be it sufficient to state, that the prominent feature in this Hat is elegance of _style_, strongly visible in all its parts, and each part in unison with the whole; which for _tonish_ and exquisite _dash_ has no competitor. It will be seen, from what is here stated, that, much as this Hat is capable of transfusing its _graces_ to the wearer (and who can doubt it), some _little_ attention to _personal_ requisites is necessary—which, in stature, should be over five feet seven, and not too lusty; countenance or complexion is of little consequence; but the visage should be oval, such corresponding uncommonly well with the fine _arched_ brim, which forms nearly two-fifths of a circle; and, when tastefully placed on the head, with a slight inclination over the face, so as to bring the _fore_ point on a line with the _tip_ of the nose, such will be the result, that, whatever difficulty may attend a just description of its astonishing effects, the advantages to a wearer will most assuredly be FELT.
THE TILBURY.
THIS Hat is bold in appearance, but full of _character_: Indeed, there is so much of the _whip_ in its general outline, that it can never, with propriety, be worn but as a _driving_ Hat.
THE BANG-UP.
WHAT a pleasing reflection it is, all things considered, that near as the human _form_ may approach to perfection, still that form is capable of being _improved_ by ingenuity; but then, the difficulty is to decide on what really _are improvements_: for instance, some will admire a fine slope in the coat _skirts_, tapering off like the tail of a goose; some (whether or no to catch the manners of a _hoyden_) will put on the _frock_; others, again, admire the _pantaloon_; and many give a decided preference to _inexpressibles_. But the _Bang-up_, as a Hat, is the very master-piece of inventive taste, wherein all admiration must of necessity _centre_, having not only in its general appearance a bold and manly _front_, but a pleasing harmony of parts, all tending to produce an agreeable union of _taste_ and _utility_; who then would mount the “_box_” without being decorated with its chiefest ornament?
THE CLERICUS.
A very CONTEMPLATIVE, SEDATE, PIOUS-LOOKING HAT, much worn by Police-Officers, Quack-Doctors, and Clergymen; this, it may be said, is a strange assemblage of _characters_ to bring under _one head_, and some may hold the _association_ to be a reflection on the _latter_, when in truth the very _opposite_ is intended; in proof of which it is only necessary to observe that, where the attainment of an object depends on _outward show_, such contrivances will be resorted to as are best calculated to secure the object in view; and the very _assumption_ of the habit here spoken of by the “traps” and “quacks” of the day, is evidence of the habit itself being in the _highest possible estimation_. If taken in an _ornamental_ point of view, it would be no easy task to decide on its merits; but if _usefully_ considered, the conclusion is plain and easy. It is an admitted fact, that an idea of dignity cannot embody itself with _little things_, hence the custom of wearing _large wigs_, for such doubtless these Hats were originally intended, and for this reason, the hinder part being drawn up with loops in two places, no peruke, however large its dimensions, can receive the least injury; in short, it may be worn under this Hat with as little discomfiture to the _intricate friz_ as though it were absolutely on the very block itself: here then is produced what may be termed a happy union of wisdom and piety, inasmuch as it is allowed, when speaking of high legal characters, that the _wisdom_ is in the _wig_, and by the same rule (when Clericus is worn by a Divine) the _piety_ must be in the _Hat_. The style of putting on will greatly depend on the size of the _peruke_, without which it should never be worn, particularly if the hair be _lank and black_.
THE BON-TON.
IN point of form and fine proportions, this Hat cannot fail to rank high in general estimation. Its appearance very much resembles the Wellington, or rather it is between the Wellington and the Marquis; and, like the latter, there is that becoming _style_, which not only _harmonizes_, but gives a _peculiar grace_ to the majority of its wearers.
THE BARONET.
THIS is a Hat highly respectable in appearance, and well suited to gentlemen in the _decline_ of life; but as that is a state to which few will acknowledge while there is a capability of _hobbling without a crutch_, something definite had better be stated by giving the precise age;—take it then at _fifty_, which will put all doubts at rest. The reason for fixing on the Baronet, as suitable to those in declining years, is its grave, reflecting, methodical cast, such as would seem to say of the _wearer_—“Here is one that possesses a serenity of mind, an easy indifference of disposition, a tranquillity of thought, which would quietly disentangle itself from the vain, shadowy, fleeting desires of this life, and leave no regret behind.” There are many other recommendatory properties in this Hat, but those already particularized are the most valuable; yes, _valuable_,—for it is a well-known fact, that mankind are often made up of contrivance, that is, they frequently give to _appearance_ the shape of _reality_;—and however strange the doctrine may at first appear, it is nevertheless true, that the custom is often attended with very _beneficial results_, inasmuch as by _endeavouring_ to maintain an _apparent_ consistency between _habit_ and _action_, the _propriety_ of doing right becomes so strongly impressed on the mind, that the villainy of a bad practice is seen in its _worst deformity_, and conscience, the unerring monitor of the mind, rides triumphant over all. These are recommendations of no ordinary nature, and such that will no doubt cause much inquiry after the _Baronet_. As to growth or countenance, there is an old saying, that “beggars should not be choosers;” and the wearer, if he becomes so from _necessity_, will feel the propriety of leaving choice out of the question.
THE JOLLIFFE.