Part 4

Push in controlling lever. Take hold of cam No. 1 and back the cams until the second elevator descends to its safety latch. Hold the spaceband transfer lever with the right hand and press downward with left hand on the releasing lever in the first elevator top guide. Allow the spaceband transfer lever to move over into the intermediate channel. Push the spacebands back into the channel. Remove the screw on the right-hand side of the electric light bracket and move the bracket to clear the box. Remove the large screw in the center of the box and lift the box off the dowel pins.

In replacing the spaceband box, be careful not to spring the lower end of the spaceband chute. Also be careful not to bend the ends of the inclined rails.

SPACEBAND TROUBLES

Transposition troubles of the spacebands may be caused by any of the following: Worn keyboard cam roll, keyboard cam sluggish, loose keyboard driving belt, keyrod spring weak, tongue at the bottom of spaceband chute bent too far, worn star wheel, pawl levers loose on the shaft, caused by taper pins not being tight; dirty spaceband box pawls, pawl levers not adjusted properly, worn pawls and rails, chute spring out of adjustment, chute rails worn; also on the cam frames with the spring bar, a weak keyboard cam yoke spring.

Some of the causes for the spacebands not dropping are: Worn rails or pawls, lifting screw holes in pawls worn, bent spacebands, bent ears on spacebands, center bar out of adjustment, keyrod spring weak or off, dirty spaceband box pawls, weak pawl springs, worn rubber roll, free end of keyboard cam yoke gummy, pawl lever loose. On the cam frames with the spring bar, the cam yoke spring too tight; bent hinge rod on cam yoke or trigger dirty, or anything else that would prevent the free movement of the pawls.

Spacebands travel through the machine suspended by their lugs. Constant use causes the under side of the lug to wear, and when spacebands with badly worn lugs are mixed together with new spacebands, difficulty frequently arises and they occasionally clog in the chute when released by touching the spacebar. The only remedy is to send the offending spaceband to the factory to be repaired.

SPACEBAND BOX PAWLS AND RAILS

If the trouble is due to worn or dirty pawls, they can be taken out in the following manner: Remove the spaceband box from the machine, release the tension of the pawl springs by unscrewing the small screw that holds the spring, then take out the pawl screw and lift the pawl out of the box. If the pawls are to be replaced by new ones, select two that are the same height. Test the pawls for height by placing a small wooden plug in the pivot hole of the two pawls. The points should be the same distance from the pivot holes. If the old pawls are to be used, mark one pawl, so that they will not get mixed; for after they have been used, they should be kept in their regular place. Measure the pawls for height and also examine them to see if the points are worn. If uneven and the points dull, they can be rubbed down on an oil stone to get them even. After they are the same height, sharpen them on an oil stone, being careful to maintain the same bevel.

To work well, the pawls must be even as to height and at the points. If the pawls are rusty or gummy they can be cleaned by rubbing them on crocus cloth and polishing with graphite.

If the spaceband box rails are to be replaced with new ones, the box must be taken apart. Remove the box from the machine. Remove the chute plate. Drive out the taper pin which holds the pawl levers to the lever shaft, and take off the levers. Take out the pawls, unscrew the two large screws, and pry the two castings apart. Take off the center bar plate by removing the two round head screws. Remove the old rails. Put on the new ones by fitting them on the dowel pins, using care to have the vertical face of the rails even. It is always best to renew the pawls at the same time new rails are put on.

TO REPLACE SPACEBAND BOX PAWLS

To replace the spaceband box pawls, loosen the screw which holds the pawl spring to the pawl lever, unscrew the lifting pawl screw, place pawl in the box, screw up on the lifting screw, being careful to guide the screw into the hole on the pawl. Place the spring in the pawl slot before the pawl lift screw is drawn tight. Tighten the spring screw, which holds the spring against the pawl, until the screw is tight.

The pawl should rest against the back of the pawl guide firmly. Try the pawl to see if the spring has the proper tension and that the pawl is not bent so it does not work freely.

LINE DELIVERY SLIDE

The delivery slide consists of two slides which move in a slideway, a long finger, short finger, delivery slide rod, and adjusting clamp. The slide is connected by a lever link, lever, shaft, and split cam lever, to a roller which operates against the surface of cam No. 10.

The slide gets its action, when delivering a line, from a strong coil spring in the column of the machine which is connected to a lug on the shaft. The slide is returned to normal by cam action, the roller being held against and following the surface of cam No. 10.

When the line delivery slide is in normal position, it is prevented from sliding into the first elevator jaws by the delivery pawl, which is under the spaceband box, held to the face by a screw, and operated by a spring.

This pawl has a notch on the lower side, which acts as a safety to prevent the slide being pulled to the left, in case it is not returned quite far enough for the end of the pawl to pass the catch.

When the slide has returned to normal position, the short finger should go not more than 1/16 of an inch beyond the end of the pawl. If the finger returns more than this distance, the short finger will be forced against the spaceband box chute and cause it to spring, and very likely cause delay in dropping of the spacebands.

The return adjustment is made by moving the split cam lever in or out. First remove the spaceband box so as to have a clear view of the pawl and finger. Then turn the main cams by hand until just before the high part of cam No. 10 is opposite the split cam lever roller. Place the short finger back of the delivery pawl, in normal position. Hold the lever and roller against the cam and tighten the screws in the split cam lever. This should cause the short finger on the slide to be returned not more than 1/16 of an inch beyond the pawl.

This adjustment is approximate, however, due to wear on the connecting parts of the slide on machines which have been in use for some time. The adjustment is made on the older model machines, which do not have the split cam lever, by the eccentric pin on the slide lever.

Near the right end of the first elevator jaws are two spring pawls which prevent the matrices from falling out while the line is going to casting position. The short finger should stop 13/32 of an inch inside of the first elevator. The last matrix on the right-hand end of the line will then be inside the two pawls. This adjustment is made by the screw in the slideway on the left end of the face plate, against which the slide comes to a stop.

When the slide stops against the adjusting screw in the slideway, the casting mechanism will be set in action. It is started by the roller on the split cam lever, which comes in contact with the automatic stopping pawl on cam No. 10, forcing it from the upper stopping lever, and the machine goes into action. It should not start before the line delivery slide has come to a stop against the adjusting screw on the face plate. If it did, the last matrix in the line would not be inside the spring pawls in the first elevator. The plate, which is held to the automatic stopping pawl by a screw on the lower end, is adjustable. Loosening the lower and turning the upper screw to the left will move the plate closer to the split lever or roller and the machine will be set in action sooner; moving the screw to the right, the reverse. This plate should be adjusted so as to knock the automatic stop pawl off upper stopping lever not less than 1/64 of an inch.

The short finger is at the right of the slide and acts as a support for the right end of the matrix line while it is being transferred to the first elevator jaws. There is a small extension at the top of the short finger which engages the delivery pawl and holds the slide in normal position until the assembling elevator is raised to send in a line. The short finger is not adjustable.

The long finger is fastened to the left of the slide. It is the support for the left end of the matrix line while it is being transferred to the vise jaws. The long finger is adjusted by means of the clamp. It is necessary to readjust this finger when the measure is changed. The long finger must be kept straight so it hangs vertically on the machine. If bent either forward or backward it will wear the assembling elevator. If the bottom is bent to the right, it may interfere with the assembler slide, or the last matrix in the line may not get inside the first elevator jaw pawls, thereby binding the matrix. If bent to the left it will bind full lines of matrices as they are being raised by the assembling elevator and cause the slide to travel slowly.

The air chamber, which regulates the speed at which the slide travels, is fastened to the rear of the column and is connected to the split cam lever by means of a link. This link is also connected to the delivery air cushion piston, which operates in the air cylinder. As the slide moves over to the left this piston is forced upward into the cylinder. The speed is regulated by an air vent and cover at the top of the cylinder. Opening up the vent allows the air to escape quicker which in turn allows the slide to move to the left faster. The slide should not go over with too much force or it will have a tendency to loosen the screws in the delivery slide.

The lever link, which is the connection between the delivery slide and delivery lever, has a stud which fastens in a depression in the delivery lever and is held by a small plate and two screws. The other end of the lever has a notch that fits over a shoulder screw at the left of the rear side of the delivery slide. The link is held on this screw by means of a long, flat spring. The spring holds the link on the screw except when there is an undue strain on the delivery slide caused by something interfering with the free return of the slide. When the strain becomes too great, the spring permits the link to slip off the shoulder screw, disconnecting the slide from the lever to prevent breakage. To connect the link it is only necessary to relieve the strain on the delivery slide and push the link and the shoulder screw together.

The slideway should be well lubricated at all times to prevent undue wear on the sliding parts. Dry graphite will give more uniform action than oil on the slideway. If oil has been used on the slideway, it should be thoroughly cleaned before using graphite.

METAL POT

The metal pot consists of the pot jacket and pot crucible. The jacket is the outside casting. The crucible fits into the jacket, allowing space between the crucible and jacket for asbestos packing. The crucible is held in place in the jacket by three lugs, which keep it stationary in the jacket. All the space between the crucible and jacket is packed tightly with powdered asbestos which has been mixed with a little water until a paste is formed. This insulation is for the purpose of holding the heat in the crucible.

It is very important that every pot should be well insulated or packed. If there is poor packing the crucible can not hold the heat. The result being poor slugs, and the consequent use of more gas than is necessary. If the machine takes an excessive gas flame to keep the metal in working condition, look for poor insulation.

The well of the pot, which contains the metal before it is forced through the mouthpiece by the plunger, must have sufficient metal under the plunger to form a perfect slug when a cast is made. For that reason two holes are drilled in the well, one on each side, which allows the metal to enter the well. If the holes become closed, which they sometimes do if the well is not cleaned regularly, the slug will be hollow. They should be kept open, using the end of the mouthpiece wiper, which is bent at a right angle and pointed. The metal pot has a capacity of 38 pounds of metal.

METAL POT PLUNGER

The metal is forced by the plunger from the well, through the throat of the crucible, into the mold cell, and up against the line of matrices aligned in front of the mold.

When the machine is in normal position, the plunger should be high enough in the well to permit the metal to run into the well through the holes in the sides. If the plunger does not set above the holes, the metal can not flow into the well and throat, so when the line is cast the slug will appear porous or spongy and of light weight.

If a plunger is worn, it will permit the metal to escape around the sides of the plunger when the cast is made, giving a poor slug. To remedy this trouble it is sometimes necessary to put in a new plunger a trifle oversize (.005), and fit it to the well.

A dirty plunger may bind and cause a splash of metal to be ejected before the pot locks up tight and, chilling on the back of the mold, prevent a lockup, so the metal will flow out over the back of the disk when the plunger acts. A dirty plunger will often cause a slug to have the appearance of cold metal. Keep the plunger and the well of the pot clean.

Any kind of a wire brush may be used to clean a plunger, but the Ewald cleaning box is recommended, because it keeps all the dust confined in the box. There are several kinds of brushes and scrapers manufactured for use in cleaning the well. Use whatever method desired, but be sure it keeps the well clean.

If using a rotary well brush to clean the walls of the well, be sure to turn it always to the right, otherwise the bristles may break off and stay in the well.

If a plunger should stick in the well very tightly, raise the temperature a little, apply a wrench to the plunger rod and twist it carefully. Do not use too much force or the rod may be broken. If a plunger sticks so that it can not be removed by the above method, dip enough metal out of the crucible to expose the well; squirt some oil between the plunger and the inside wall of the well, or drop a piece of tallow in the well; let it stand for a few minutes, after which the plunger can usually be loosened with the wrench as described. Do not pry up on the plunger for there is danger of breaking the rod.

When the plunger forces the metal through the throat of the crucible, there will be nothing to retard the flow of metal against the face of the matrices if the throat of the crucible is clean. However, if the throat should be stopped up with dross or dirt, retarding the flow of metal, the face of the slug would be glassy, and have the appearance of cold metal.

CLEANING THE THROAT OF CRUCIBLE

To eliminate a stoppage in the throat it is sometimes necessary to remove the mouthpiece and scrape out the throat, using a throat scraper to cut away the accumulation of dirt and dross.

The scraper sold by the Linotype Company is recommended for the purpose. Care must be used to get the throat clean. Hold a receptacle that does not leak up in front of the crucible mouth and force the plunger down by hand. This will flush the throat of any floating particles of dross.

Sometimes melted tallow, paraffin oil, or machine oil will open up the throat, by being used in the following manner: Dip the metal out of the pot to about an inch below the top of the well, remove the plunger, pour the melted tallow, paraffin oil, or machine oil into the well and replace the plunger. Cast a few blank slugs. After casting about six or seven slugs, fill the metal pot full of metal, recast blank slugs until you have filled the stick. The effect of the tallow or oil is to break up the dross and dirt into such fine particles, that whatever has accumulated in the throat will be forced out through the holes in the mouthpiece. This will cause considerable smoke in the room unless you have a ventilating system. Be sure to clean your vise jaws and mold after you have finished, for they will be covered with oil. It is not necessary to remove the mouthpiece for this operation so consequently considerable time can be saved. But if the throat is very dirty, this method will not work satisfactorily.

CRACKED CRUCIBLE

Crucibles are sometimes cracked from too much heat when the gas is first lighted. When the gas is turned on full at first, the metal in the bottom of the pot is melted before the metal in the upper part gets very hot. This metal in the bottom expands and powerful pressure is exerted on the walls of the well and lower part of the crucible. To eliminate this danger the gas should be turned on about half force for about twenty minutes, or until the metal becomes warm and expanded, after which the gas may be turned on full force.

Ordinarily it takes about one hour and a half to melt the metal and have it ready for use. The small cracks which are made in the bottom of the crucible when first heating the pot will usually be closed by the heat of the burner after the pressure is released.

To remove an old crucible: Dip out as much metal as possible, turn out the fire, remove the four pot jacket cover screws, take off the cover, dig out part of the old asbestos, release the screw that clamps the left-hand crucible lug to the jacket, lift out the crucible, clean all of the old asbestos out of the inside of the jacket.

To put in a new crucible: The pot jacket should be lined with the asbestos about an inch thick on the inside, except in the front part where the burners are located. Place the crucible in position. Care should be taken to see that it fits firmly in its proper position. Pack the asbestos around the crucible, tamping it down with a stick, and filling in all the spaces. Cover the well of the crucible with a rag while packing, so that none of the asbestos will get into the well. On completion of the packing, place the pot jacket cover in position, and fasten it down firmly with the four pot jacket screws, which extend down through the cover, into the pot jacket.

MOUTHPIECES

One of the most important parts of the pot crucible, is the mouthpiece. The mouthpiece on all standard machines contains thirty holes (size 51), one hole for each pica of the slug, through which the metal flows into the mold cell to form a slug.

At the present time there are two styles of mouthpieces in general use: The wedge mouthpiece which has a gib or wedge to fasten it in the slot of the crucible to make a tight fit; and the screw mouthpiece which fastens on to the crucible by means of screws.

On all mouthpieces small cross vents are cut downward between each of the holes. There is also a vent which is cut from the first hole on the right-hand end of the mouthpiece. The cross vents allow the air to escape from the mold cell as the metal is forced in. These vents play a very important part in the casting of good slugs. If the vents are stopped up with dross or cold metal, the air can not escape from the mold cell. This causes a slug with air bubbles, making a light-weight slug. These air bubbles, when near the face of the type, allow the letters to be crushed in when put under pressure on the press. Also, the entire slug may be forced down, causing much delay in printing.

Care must be taken in cutting the vents in a mouthpiece so they do not extend very far above the top of the holes in the mouthpiece and that they are not too deep. They should be deep in the center and come to a very fine edge at the ends. All that is needed is to get the air out of the mold quickly. Ordinarily this can be accomplished by cleaning the vents with a sharp pointed scraper but be careful not to mar the mouthpiece. When the vents are opened properly there should be a sprue of metal below the vents on the back of the mold about ½ to ¾ of an inch long after the slug is cast.

A vent that is cut too deep will have too much sprue, causing an unnecessary amount of shavings on the floor and about the machine, and sometimes causing machine troubles.

It should seldom be necessary to drill out the holes in a mouthpiece. If the metal is properly cared for in remelting, and the mouthpiece is kept at the proper temperature, the metal will usually flow freely through the holes. However, if it is found necessary to drill out the holes, never use larger than a 1/16 inch or No. 51 drill, which will not make the holes larger than their original size. When using the drill, it should be immersed in oil after each hole is drilled, to prevent the drill from becoming too hot and breaking off in the hole. Enlarging the mouthpiece holes will work satisfactorily on large faces 8-point or above; but when the smaller faces are used the product will not have a clear-cut face.

TO REMOVE A MOUTHPIECE

When it is necessary to remove a mouthpiece for cleaning out the throat of the crucible, mark a line on the face of the crucible to align with the first hole on the right end of the mouthpiece. When replacing the mouthpiece the line will be your guide. By so adjusting there will be a full hole on each end of the slug when casting the different lengths, with the exception of half-pica measures. A hole on the adjustable or left end being partly covered by the liner in the mold would cause no trouble. If part of the first hole should be covered by the constant liner, the first letter on the right end of the slug would be blurred, or would not cast sharply, because the metal cools quickly on the ends of the mold, and a full, free flow is necessary.

The mouthpiece should always be removed when the metal is hot. If removed when cold there would be danger of breaking the pot crucible.

When removing the wedge style mouthpiece, place the vise in second position, lift out the mold slide, place a block of wood between the right side of the pot jacket and the slideway, drive the mouthpiece toward the keyboard, using a piece of brass as a drift. The above operation is necessary to loosen the wedge. The instant the mouthpiece moves, the wedge will become loose and can be lifted out.

Another method of removal is to grip the left-hand end of the gib with a pair of pliers, pulling the end of the gib forward and wrapping it around the pliers, prying against a piece of brass rule placed along the face of the mouthpiece. Care must be used in this method to hold the pliers at such an angle that the lip of the crucible will not be damaged while removing the gib.

Always have a new gib on hand before removing a mouthpiece, for it is difficult to use an old one in replacing a mouthpiece.

In replacing an old mouthpiece, extreme care must be taken to see that it is perfectly clean and straight. Clean the mouthpiece thoroughly and with a straight-edge test the mouthpiece to see that it is straight. If not, straighten it, being careful not to damage. This need not be done with a new mouthpiece.

Before placing the mouthpiece in the crucible, remove the left-hand vise locking stud nut and pull out the stud. Be careful not to lose the small brass washer which is on the stud. The removal of the stud permits the sliding in of the mouthpiece easily. The lips and the slot of the crucible, which are the seat for the mouthpiece, must be entirely free from all dirt and dross or the mouthpiece can not seat properly.