Part 1

Chapter 12,989 wordsPublic domain

ILLUSTRATED MICHELIN GUIDES TO THE BATTLE-FIELDS (1914-1918)

LILLE

BEFORE AND DURING THE WAR

MICHELIN & Cⁱᵉ, CLERMONT-FERRAND, FRANCE. MICHELIN TYRE Cº Lᵗᵈ, 81 Fulham Road, LONDON, S.W. MICHELIN TIRE Cº MILLTOWN, N.J. U.S.A.

Hotels and Motor-Agents at Lille

Information extracted from the MICHELIN GUIDE (1919)[1]

Key to Arbitrary Signs

ⒽⒽ Comfortable hotels, with modern or modernised installation.

Ⓗ Well-managed hotels.

=[CC]= Central Heating.

=[L]= Electric Light.

=[B]= Bath-room.

=[WC]= Modern W.C.'s.

=[T] 104= Telephone number.

Ⓣ Telegraphic address.

Gar. =[6]= Accommodation for automobiles, and the number of cars which can be accommodated.

Box Private lock-up compartments.

Att Adjoining the hotel.

=100 m.= About 100 yards from the hotel.

=Compressed Air= Depôt for "bouteilles d'air Michelin" for inflation of tyres.

Ⓡ Repair shop.

_Agt de_ Manufacturer's agent.

=[3]= Garage and number of cars it will accommodate.

=U= Inspection pit.

=[E]= Petrol can be obtained here.

=E˝= Electric plant where accumulators may be recharged.

=[A·A]= Agent of "Automobile Association" of England.

* * * * *

HOTELS and MOTOR-AGENTS

ⒽⒽ Hôtel Bellevue, _35, rue Jean-Roisin et 17-19, Grande Place_. Lift =[CC]= =[L]= =[B]= =[WC]= Gar. =100 m.= =[20]= Ⓣ Hôtel Bellevue =[T]= =12-98=.

ⒽⒽ Hôtel de l'Europe, _30-32, rue Basse_. Lift =[CC]= =[L]= =[B]= =[WC]= Gar. =[15]= =U= =[T]= =4·75=.

Ⓗ Hôtel et Restaurant de la Paix, _46, rue de Paris_. =[CC]= =[L]= =[B]= =[WC]= Gar. att. =[T]= =1539=.

Ⓡ STOCK MICHELIN =(Compressed Air)=, =Garage Dulieux=, _36, rue de l'Hôpital-Militaire_. Annexe: _rue de Fontenay_. _Agt de_: Corre la Licorne. =[30]= =U= =[E]= =E˝= =[A-A]= Ⓣ Dulieux-Automobiles =[T]= =14·04=.

-- STOCK MICHELIN =(Compressed Air)=. =Agence Renault=, _141, boulevard Carnot_, La Madeleine-lès-Lille. =[30]= =U= =[E]= =E˝= =[T]= =19.78= (réseau Lille) Ⓣ Renauto.

-- STOCK MICHELIN, =Louis Vallez=, _5, rue du Palais-Rihour_. =[40]= =U= =[E]= =E˝= =[T]= =22·70=.

-- STOCK MICHELIN, =Grand Garage Farcot=, _68-70, rue Meurein (219, rue Nationale)_. =[80]= =U= =[E]= =E˝= =[T]= =20·20=.

-- STOCK MICHELIN =(Compressed Air)=, =Succureale des Automobiles Berliet=, _197, rue Nationale_. =[100]= =[E]= =E˝= Autoberlie-Lille =[T]= =16·96=.

-- STOCK MICHELIN, =Sté des Anciens Etablissements Panhard et Levassor= (Succᵉ), _187, boulevard de la République_ (new boulevard), La Madeleine-lès-Lille. =[40]= =U= =[E]= =E˝= Ⓣ Panhard-Levassor =[T]= =5·83= (réseau Lille).

-- STOCK MICHELIN, =Agences Hotchkiss=, _1 bis, rue de la Chambre des Comptes_. =[20]= =U= =[E]= =E˝= =[T]= =26·83=.

-- STOCK MICHELIN, Repair Shop for motor-cars, =Emile Faure et Cie=, _avenue Verdy et rue du Ballon_, La Madeleine-lès-Lille. =[20]= =U= =[E]= =[T]= =14·27= (réseau Lille).

-- STOCK MICHELIN, =Kalflèche et Bachmann=, _147, boulevard de la République_, La Madeleine-lès-Lille. =[10]= =U= =[E]= =E˝= =[T]= =24·18= (réseau Lille).

-- STOCK MICHELIN, =E. Bouriez et Cie=, _50-52, rue Jean-Bart et 239, boulevard de la République_, La Madeleine-lès-Lille. _Agts de_: Peugeot =[10]= =U= =[E]= =E˝= =[T]= =3·88= (réseau Lille).

-- =Sociéte Anonyme des Autos et Cycles Peugeot= (Succursale de la), _62, boulevard de la Liberté_. =[T]= =20·84=.

-- =Kœchlin=, _27, rue Colson_. =[30]= =U= =[E]= =E˝= =[T]= =18·30=.

-- =Marcel Villette=, _5, rue St-Augustin_. =[10]= =U= =[E]= =[T]= =26·81=.

-- =John et Henry Sergy=, _240, rue Nationale_. =[15]= =U= =[E]= =E˝= =[T]= =27·24=.

-- =Succursale Th. Schneider et Cie=, _3, rue St-Genois_. =[30]= =U= =[E]= Ⓣ Theiderco =[T]= =2·92=.

-- =Usine Pipe=, _56, boulevard de la Liberté et 5 bis, rue de l'Orphéon_. =[50]= =20= boxes =U= =[E]= =E˝=.

-- =Mannessier=, _rue Nationale_. =[E]=.

[1] _The above information dates from March 1st, 1919, and may no longer be exact when it meets the reader's eye. Tourists are therefore recommended to consult the latest edition of the "Michelin Guide to France" (English or French), before setting out on the tour described in this volume._

LILLE

BEFORE AND DURING THE WAR

Published by MICHELIN & +Cie+ Clermont-Ferrand, France.

_All rights of translation, adaptation or reproduction (in part or whole), reserved in all countries._

LILLE

ORIGIN AND CHIEF HISTORICAL EVENTS

The marvellous tales of _"Liliane"_ and the forest rangers _Phinœrt_ and _Lyderic_, which take Lille back to the days of Julius Cæsar, are mythical. The first mention of Lille in history dates back to the 11th century, when the town was divided into the _"castrum"_ or entrenched camp of the Counts of Flanders (where Baudoin V. erected the Basilica and Forum in about 1050), and the _"forum"_ (to-day the Grand' Place), where the church of St. Martin already existed.

The _"forum"_ grew rapidly in the 12th century; the suburb of Fives, with its two churches of St. Saviour and St. Maurice, being enclosed within the new wall. There were no further changes of importance until the 17th century, when the Vauban fortifications to the north further enlarged the town. It was only in 1858 that Moulins, Vazemmes and Esquermes were included in the southern portion of the town, leaving the important suburbs of Fives and St. Maurice outside the ramparts.

Its situation on the frontier embroiled Lille in all the great wars. In 1213, _Philippe-August_ took it twice from Count Ferrand, burning it completely the second time, to punish the inhabitants for having received their former chief. _Philippe le Bel_ took it in 1297, and built the Château de Courtrai to commemorate the event. The _Flemish_ conquered it in 1302, but were defeated in 1304 at Mons-en-Puelle by Philippe, who forced them to abandon the town after a month's siege. Then, for half-a-century, Lille belonged to the Kings of France, but the marriage of the Duke of Burgundy, _Philippe le Hardi_, with the Heiress of Flanders, in 1369, restored it to the counts. When _Maximilian of Austria_ espoused Marie of Burgundy, daughter and Heir of Charles the Bold, last Duke of Burgundy, Lille became part of his dominions.

At the head of his armies, _Louis XIV._ besieged and took it in 1667 after "nine days of trench fighting," and the Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle confirmed the capture.

As an advanced citadel, it defended the northern frontier, but in 1708, the _Spanish_ were before its gates, and Marshal de Boufflers, after exhausting his supplies and ammunition, was obliged to surrender to Prince Eugène and the Duke of Marlborough. After a five years' occupation, the Treaty of Utrecht gave it back to France in 1713.

In 1792, it was besieged by 30,000 Austrians under _Albert of Saxe-Coburg_, who bombarded it day and night for nine days. The famous _Lille gunners_ beat off the enemy, who raised the siege, and the Convention having decreed that "the town deserved well of the country," a commemorative column was erected in the Grand' Place _(p. 26)_.

In the Franco-German War of 1870-1871, Lille remained outside the battle area, and the only local souvenir connected with that struggle was a visit from _M. Antonin Dubost_ (now Président of the French Senate) in October, 1870. Leaving Paris, which was besieged, in a balloon named "The Universal Republic," he landed between Rocroi and Mézières, going thence on foot to Belgium, and from there to Lille. He was received by the Commissary of the Government for National Defence (Mr. Testelin) _(p. 50)_ and General Bourbaki, who had escaped from Metz, and harangued the people from the steps of the Grand' Garde _(Place de la Bourse, p. 29)_.

In 1914, the victorious Germans were at its gates, and the Capital of Flanders was destined to suffer a four years' occupation.

LILLE AND THE GREAT WAR

Importance and Military Situation of Lille in 1914

Lying between the rivers Lys, Escaut and Scarpe, in the plain before the hills of Artois, Lille forms an isolated advance-post between _Maubeuge_ (which guards the Pass of the Oise), and _Dunkirk_ (which commands the region of the Dunes). _Vauban_ had fortified the place, but the treaties of 1815 and 1871 deprived France of her essential points of support, and rendered these defences valueless. In 1873, _General Séré de Rivières_, Director of the Engineering Section at the Ministry of War, commenced a comprehensive scheme which aimed at the reorganization of the entire northern frontier, whereof Lille was one of the pivots.

Situated in the centre of France's richest coalfields and allied industries, Lille has justly been called "the Key to France's Treasure-House" (see _"Le secret de la frontière,"_ by M. Fernand Engerand, 1918). To enable it to withstand a surprise attack and hold out against a long siege, the city's intermediate defences were increased to such a degree that Lille became the point of support of the French frontier between the rivers Sambre and Lys. By thus protecting the Arsenal of Douai, it became possible to assemble a reserve army within the entrenched camp of Lille, 31 miles in length. The total cost of these works was 126,000,000 frs.

But, as in Vauban's days, a reactionary movement set in against defensive works, and it was demonstrated by their opponents that besieged towns must fall, and that in future the destinies of nations would be decided in the open battlefield. In 1880, the works of Séré de Rivières were abandoned.

In the meantime, the great cities of the north, with Lille at their head, had become industrial centres of primary importance, thanks to their wealth of raw materials (coal, iron and steel). To protect them from the horrors of war, it was considered only necessary to make open towns of them. The fortifications of Lille were among the first to be condemned, as being of no real value, and a Bill to this effect was passed by Parliament.

Collaborators of Séré de Rivières gave the alarm in March, 1899, pointing out that the neutrality of Belgium was insufficient protection, that its violation was inevitable, that the Pass of the Oise was an open road for invasion, that with Lille outflanked, the Forest of Saint-Gobain (which Laon and La Fère, whose dismantling the Bill provided for, would no longer be able to protect) would fall, and that the enemy would be at the gates of Paris within a few days.

Finally, the fortifications of Lille were not dismantled, but were allowed to fall into disuse.

On the other hand, the eastern frontier was considerably strengthened. It was in vain that the _Belgian General Brialmont_, who had just completed the forts of Antwerp and Liege, pointed out that the abandonment of the northern frontier would inevitably cause a violation of Belgium's neutrality. Like her peaceful neighbour, France relied on the sacredness of treaties, and made it a point of honour to leave that part of her frontier practically unprotected.

At that time, Germany was neglecting the East, and making all her railways converge towards the Pass of the Oise. In other words, a frontal attack against the East being considered impracticable, Germany decided to turn it from the north. The fortifications of Lille were again condemned in November, 1911, and it is a curious coincidence that this was the year of the _Agadir Incident_ and of the first tangible German threats of war.

In July, 1914, 3,000 artillery-men and nearly a third of the guns had been removed from the fortifications. On August 1st, the Governor, General Lebas, received orders to consider Lille an open town, but on August 21st his successor, General Herment, increased the garrison troops from 15,000 to 25,000, and later, to 28,000 men, taking units from each of the regiments in the 1st region. At this time, the armament consisted of 446 guns and 79,788 shells, to which were added 9,000,000 cartridges, 3,000 75 mm. shells and 12 47 mm. guns sent from Paris.

How Lille fell in 1914

_(See Maps on pages 3 and 6)_

At the beginning of the battle of Charleroi, _General d'Amade_ was in the vicinity of Lille, with territorial divisions extending from _Dunkirk_ to _Maubeuge_. The 82nd Division alone held the entire space between the Escaut and the Scarpe, with advance posts at Tournai and Lille. It was manifest that these troops were insufficient to offer serious resistance. However, the first care was to defend the town. For two days, trenches and shelters were made, and the troops sent to their respective positions.

On August 23rd, the British, defeated on the previous day at Mons, retreated, leaving Tournai unprotected. The Germans drove out the 82nd territorial Division and entered the town. Elsewhere, they advanced as far as Roubaix-Tourcoing, blowing up the station of Mouscron. The French territorials counter-attacked vigorously, and units of the 83rd and 84th regiments reoccupied Tournai during the night.

In the early morning of the 24th, _General de Villaret_, commanding the 170th Brigade, organized the defence of the bridges over the Escaut, where sharp fighting took place. However, his troops were obliged to fall back about noon, before the numerically superior enemy forces.

While these events were taking place close to Lille, the Mayor requested that the town should not be needlessly exposed to the horrors of a siege. A meeting of the principal civil authorities (town councillors and members of both Houses of Parliament) was held, at which it was decided to petition the Government to declare the town open, and withdraw the military. At 5 p.m. on the 24th, a telegram arrived from the War Minister, with orders to consider Lille undefended, and to evacuate the troops between La Bassée and Aire-sur-la-Lys.

On the 25th, the right wing of the German army was reported to be advancing, protected by about three divisions of cavalry with supporting artillery. Patrols reached the outskirts of the town soon afterwards.

General Herment executed the orders he had received. Moreover, he knew that the neighbouring town of Maubeuge was holding out with 45,000 men, and that the Belgian army was intact at Antwerp.

On September 2nd, enemy detachments entered Lille, disappearing three days later. The town was only occupied by patrols, who had orders to secure the German right (Von Kluck's army), which was executing its famous flanking movement. Then came the _Victory of the Marne_. After the German retreat and the indecisive _Battle of the Aisne_, the enemy began their northward movement known as the "Race for the Sea," the aim of which, on either side, was to turn the adversary's wing.

On October 3rd, Joffre joined the 10th army under _General de Maud'huy_ to reinforce his left and prevent its envelopment. The 21st Army Corps arrived from Champagne, and the 13th Division detrained to the west of the town.

On the morning of the 4th, battalions of Chasseurs, belonging to the 13th Division, received orders to take up positions to the north and east of the town. After spending the night at Armentières, they passed through Lille, where they had an enthusiastic reception.

The 17th Battalion, which was to occupy the suburb of Fives, was met with a sharp fusillade as it left the ramparts. Organizing promptly, it drove the enemy from the railway station and fortifications, capturing a number of machine-guns and prisoners. To the north of the town, the French troops came into contact with German patrols near Wambrechies and Marquette, while the 7th cavalry Division had skirmishes in the neighbourhood of Fouquet.

Meanwhile, the garrison, consisting of territorials and Algerian mounted troops, took up positions to the south of Faches and Wattignies, in liaison, at Ronchin, with other units of the 13th Division. The enemy attacked at this point, and reached the railway.

On the 5th, after a sharp counter-attack, the French took Fives, Hellemmes, Flers, the Fort of Mons-en-Barœul and Ronchin. To the west of the town cavalry engagements took place along the Ypres Canal. On the 6th, the 13th Division left the outskirts of the town, following the 21st Corps in the direction of Artois. Only two battalions of Chasseurs were left in Lille.

On the 7th, the two battalions of Chasseurs rejoined the 13th Division, the defence of Lille being left to the territorials and Algerian troops. On the 9th and 10th, the 2nd cavalry Corps engaged the enemy near Estaires-Merville (between Aire-sur-la-Lys and Armentières), but was unable to open the road to Lille, which was then left to its fate.

At 10 a.m. on the 9th, the first enemy aeroplane appeared, and dropped two bombs on the General Post Office. In the afternoon, all men from 18 to 48 years of age were ordered to the Béthune Gate, with instructions to leave Lille immediately.

A crowd of people from Lille, Tourcoing, Roubaix and the neighbouring villages, left on foot for Dunkirk and Gravelines. Several died on the way of exhaustion, others being taken prisoners by the Uhlans. The last train left at day-break on the 10th. At 9 a.m., the first enemy shell burst, being followed by many others which fell in the neighbourhood of the station, and on the Prefecture and Palais des Beaux-Arts. The afternoon was quiet, but at 9 a.m. the bombardment began again, lasting until 1 in the morning, then from 5 a.m. to 8 a.m. and from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. On the 12th, when the garrison capitulated, 80 civilians had been killed and numerous buildings destroyed by the bombardment. That part of the town near the railway station was almost entirely destroyed _(see plan, p. 25)_.

The Rue Faidherbe, Café Jean, Grand Hôtel, Grande Pharmacie de France, part of the Rue des Ponts-de-Comines, and the whole of the Rue du Vieux-Marché-aux-Poulets, were in ruins. The Hôtel Continental in the Parvis-St.-Maurice Square, was a mere heap of rubbish. The Rue de Béthune, Rue de l'Hôpital-Militaire and Rue du Molinel were partially destroyed. In the Boulevard de la Liberté, the premises of the "Belle Jardinière" Stores were wiped out _(p. 38)_.