CHAPTER XIII.

His Tour On The Continent In 1844.

In 1844 he became so nervous and weak that he was forbidden exertion of any kind; his ailment is manifest in his tremulous handwriting. On medical advice, he takes a tour on the Continent with Mr. and Mrs. Phillipps and their children. His account of this tour is preserved in a Journal, and we think it well to give it entire, without any compression.

On Wednesday, July 3rd, 1844, I set off from Grace Dieu Manor for a tour on the Continent with my dear friend, Ambrose Phillipps, his wife, his two eldest boys, Ambrose and Edward, and John Squires, his servant. He took his carriage, in which he and his family sat on the railway from Loughborough to London, while I went in a second-class carriage. We arrived at the Burlington Hotel, and dined about 7 o'clock. Afterwards we went out different ways. I called at Dr. Griffiths, but he was not at home. I had tea with Dr. Maguire, whom I found at home; we had an hour's talk, about the Oxford men principally. Got home about 10.

Thursday, July 4.--Went with the Phillippses to Father Lythgoe's, in Bolton Street, where I said mass, and breakfasted at 10. I went to see Dr. Chambers, in Brook Street, being ordered by Dr. Wiseman to consult him as to the propriety of taking a long tour, as is proposed by Phillipps. Dr. Chambers recognized me at once, as I used in 1824 or 1825 to follow his visits to the patients in St. George's Hospital, with a view to learn medicine. He judged it quite necessary that I should have at least three months' absence from work, and approved of my travelling with {281} moderate exertion. So I am fixed at last to set off. God knows how I shall go through. The present plan is to go through Belgium, to Munich, the Tyrol, Venice, Milan, Turin, Lyons, Paris, and home; and my purpose is to get prayers for England's conversion, and to see men rather than places and things. After Dr. Chambers, I went to the Bank, to get my letter of credit, then to Buckingham Palace, to see my sister. After I had waited a half-hour she returned from her drive, and took me to her nursery apartments at the top of the house. I had my first glance at Prince Albert, going out to ride with Colonel Bouverie. From Sarah, I went to Lyttelton's house, 39, Grosvenor Place, where I found Caroline Lyttelton was expected home in an hour, and so I went on to call on Sisk, who was out, and I came back and saw Lyttelton, with whom I went in his carriage towards the House of Lords, and was set down in St. James's Street. On the table in Grosvenor Place I saw what I was 21 years ago, in a miniature painted by Ross--a blooming rosy youth. I did not believe it till Caroline told me. I came to dine with Sarah at 8, and staid till 10. Our conversation was most interesting, about the Queen and the children, and the great people from abroad, &c., whom she saw; above all, the Czar and the Duke of Wellington. She set me down at our hotel at 10½, after calling at Neville Grenville's, where I saw Lady Charlotte and a large family.

Friday, July 5th.--Mass and breakfast as yesterday. About 11 started for Dover, in the same order as from Loughborough; arrived at 5. I went to call on Mr. Savage, the priest, my old companion at Rome. He does not seem a movement man. He came to tea with us.

Saturday, July 6th.--As the packet was to start at 7, I missed saying mass. As it happened, we had to wait on board till 9 for the mail. We had intended to cross to Ostend, but Phillipps, getting afraid of the long crossing for sickness, so we all agreed to prefer the shorter-by-half passage to Calais. We had a good passage, but we all were miserable; the two boys were very sick. However, as the French boatmen assured us, the tread of the dry land of {282} France worked wonders to cure us all. We went to Dessin's Hotel. I was full well reminded of September, 1819, my first landing in France, and of divers other epochs, Sept. 1820, Nov. 1820, and Feb. 1830. Before dinner we went to the church to give thanks, and commend our future to God. I asked _le Suisse de l'Eglise_ (the verger) to pray for England. Nothing else done at Calais. We started in the afternoon for S. Omer, which we reached late. The country we passed was very fertile; for the first time I have seen cultivation which struck me as superior to English; the state of the people is manifestly more happy and prosperous. After tea I went to the Grand Vicaire, M. Dumez, to ask leave for mass, &c. I had forgotten to get credentials from Dr. Wiseman, and so he hesitated, but gave the _celebret_. I went on, though tired, to M. Durier, Curé de Notre Dame, who received me most cordially, and on my stating my errand, pressed me to preach at the high mass on the morrow. I hesitated, but he came with me to our hotel, and Phillipps joined in pressing it, and so I wrote a quarter of an hour's worth before going to bed, hoping I was not out of rule, but doubting.

Sunday, July 7.--Said mass at Notre Dame, a fine Gothic church; went home to breakfast, and back to high mass at 9½. After the Gospel, M. Durier first read the _annonces_, the Epistle, and the Gospel, and introduced my object to the people. Then I went into the pulpit, and made my address without any difficulty. He then rose opposite to me, and pledged himself and his flock to pray for England. After mass, I went a round of the convents of the town with an old man sent from one of them with me. The convents which promised their prayers were the following:

Les Ursulines, 37 nuns; 300 scholars.

Les Soeurs Hospitalières de S. Louis.

L'Hospice de S. Jean, served by nuns.

L'Hôpital Général des enfants trouvés, &c.

Les Religieuses de la Sainte famille.

Le Couvent du Saint Sacrement, where are only 3 nuns, the Superioress an Englishwoman, who observed that in her profession, when prostrate--a time when it is said the chosen prayer is sure to be granted--the first thing she asked was England's conversion.

Les Frères des Écoles Chrétiennes. The Superior promised to recommend the prayers to his brethren of 30 houses in this district, who meet in August for a retreat.

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"We proceeded at 3 to Lille, stopping at the exit from St. Omer to see the ruined Abbaye de St. Bertin. We stopped at Cussel, a place on the top of a mountain commanding a grand prospect over a vast plain richly wooded and cultivated. The maître d'hôtel wanted us sadly to stay, but we went on, after a walk to the top of the mount, and to the church. We came late to Lille, and not finding room at l'Hôtel de l'Europe, we put up at l'Hôtel de Gand, not a very nice one, in the Grande Place.

Monday, July 8.--I first went to the Church of St. Catherine, to see Abbe Bernard, my friend, introduced by Mrs. Canning. He was gone, yesterday, to Paris. I then went to Rue Royale, No. 61, memorable for ever as the direction to which my letters from Brington to Miss Dolling were addressed. M. Friot Chombard, who lives there, was also absent from Lille. I then went to the Church of St. Étienne, where the Grand Doyen lived; and, having seen him, I said mass. I then called on him in his house, and obtained his promise to advocate the cause of England. After breakfast, I went to the Church of St. Maurice, which is called the Cathedral. It is the first I have seen with four aisles. I saw nothing more in Lille; we left it about 12, and reached Tournay about 2. I went at once to the Évéché, where I found the Bishop's Secretary, who took me to a great convent of nuns, which the Bishop has founded, and is building this house for. It is to contain sixty nuns, and a great number of _pensionnaires_. I was presented to his lordship in the garden, and obtained a full promise of his patronage of the cause of England. I came back to dine at the Hotel (du Singe d'Or); to my surprise and pleasure, Talbot came in with Phillipps, who had met him in the Cathedral. After dinner, he and I took a {284} carriage and went to see the Passionists au Château d'Ere, about three miles off. Le Père Pierre, Superior of the house, received us with all kindness. He has three companions priests, and three brothers. They were building a church of good size, and seem to prosper; but he complains that no postulants come; they have received not one cleric yet. He thinks they fear the bare feet. He came back with us to Tournay, to see Phillipps. Soon after, we started on our way to Brussels; still by post horses, as all the way from Calais. We stopped at Alte to sleep. The hotel was one of the most agreeable and cheapest, though small.

Tuesday, July 9.--There are two churches at Alte. I went to St. Julien's, and said mass. Afterwards I introduced Phillipps and Madame to the Doyen, M. Picquart, who was most pleasing and full of knowledge, and promised all for England. We here had a contest with John, which threatened his being sent home, but he came round before the day was out. We started at 10 for Brussels. The country not equal to France. We came to the Hôtel de Belle Vue, in the Place Royale. Having engaged a suite of rooms, we sat down at once at the _table d'hôte_. After it, I went to seek for the Abbé Donnet, to whom I had a note from Seager. He was out. I then went to Ste. Gudule, the cathedral, and saw the Vicaire, a Dutch priest, with whom I settled to say mass to-morrow. Then I took a _vigilante_ (i.e. a cab) to the College de St. Michel, of the Jesuits, where I saw the Second Superior. Then to the Redemptorists, where the Superior took up the cause warmly. Home to tea.

Wednesday, July 10.--Went at 7 to Abbé Donnet; then to mass at Ste. Gudule. At 9, Abbé (Chanoine) Donnet called, and, after an hour's talk about Oxford, took us to Monsignor Pacci, the Pope's Nuncio, Archbishop of Damietta. He is a most holy-looking man; conversed with us most kindly; knew much about the Oxford people; promised his help. I then let the Phillippses go their way, intending to make a day of canvassing convents. But M. Donnet took me only to three, and then had to go his way at 12. The three were:--

Soeurs de Notre Dame, Rue de l'Étoile, 14 nuns.

Pauvres Claires, Rue de Manige, Maison Mère a Bruges, 13 nuns.

Couvent de Bellaymont. Chanoinesses Régulières de St. Augustin. Unique Maison.

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After this, I went to Ste. Gudule, and met Phillipps, with whom I went to the Jardin Botanique, and to the hospital for old men. It is a grand establishment, by private charity. It contains 700 old men, of whom 100 pay for themselves; the rest are kept free, and with wonderful regard to their comforts. I called on a curé close by, thinking to get the prayers of these _vielliards_; but he took me for a begging priest, and turned me out of doors. _Deo gratias_. Thence to the Musée, a collection of pictures, which hardly paid the trouble of looking at. After dinner at the _table d'hôte_, we took a carriage to go to Jette St. Pierre, to meet the Cardinal Archbishop of Malines, at the Convent of the Sacré Coeur there. On the way we saw an interesting church; outside was a tomb of Madame Malibren. At Jette, Madame de Wall, my friend of 1832 at Bordeaux, introduced us to the Cardinal. This was a consolation indeed. He undertook to recommend England to all the Bishops of Belgium, invited me to their meeting on the 29th July, and promised that all their priests and convents should engage in the cause. This is a noble convent. Madame de Wall said they prayed for England every half-hour in the day.

Thursday, July 11.--Said mass at St. Jacques, in the Place Royale. Went to Malines by the _chemin du fer_, Phillipps in the carriage on a truck, I in a _char-à-banc_. Arrived at l'Hôtel de la Grue just in time for the _table d'hôte_, on which I only remark the immense length of time taken to dine. After it, we went to the Petit Séminaire, where we were warmly greeted by the Abbé Bonquéan, our friend of Oscott and Grace Dieu. He took us about to a few places; and at 5 to the Salut, at the Cathedral; after which he introduced Miss Young, the convert, sister to Isabella. She went with us to Hanicq's, the printer's, and to a fine old church, &c. I visited no convents, reserving this for my return. Opposite our hotel, the grand {286} Theatre des Lapons forced itself to be noticed till late at night.

Friday, July 12.--After mass and breakfast, we went to visit the Cardinal Archbishop, who graciously gave me a paper of testimonial, which will, I hope, save some trouble. His countenance and manner are highly prepossessing. At 12 we started for Antwerp, by railway, leaving the carriage at the station at Malines. We arrived at the Hôtel St. Antoine, just in time for the _table d'hôte_ at 2. There I met Mr. Blore, with his daughter, now grown a fine young woman. After dinner, to the Cathedral. I need not speak of the glorious tower, 466 feet high. What attracted our attention most was the wonderfully beautiful restoration of the stalls in oak carved work; 40,000 francs have been spent in this already, and not half the stalls are finished, and this actually in process of work is more pleasing to see than the most beautiful morsels of ancient work, for the promise it gives of better days. The pulpit is a mass of exquisite carving, in a style seemingly favourite in this part of Belgium. The most beautiful we saw was at Brussels, Ste. Gudule, where, below the preacher, are seen Adam and Eve banished from Paradise; and above, the head of the serpent, who winds round the pulpit, crushed by Mary. The same style of carving is around the pulpit at Marines, Louvain, &c., but is seen no more at Liége. After seeing the cathedral, we went to the Musée, containing first-rate specimens of Rubens, citizen of Antwerp; as also of Van Dyke and Quintin Matsys, of whom there is an excellent picture of the Descent from the Cross. Finding myself near the College of the Jesuits, I went in and saw the Rector, who took up our cause zealously. He walked home with me to see Phillipps, and they soon got intimate.

Saturday, July 13.--After mass in the cathedral, we went, by last night's appointment, to visit the Superior of the Jesuits, who showed us his house. Then, Phillipps going to see some churches, &c., I went with a lay brother, given me for guide by the Superior, to visit convents.

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We called at the following:--

Coletines, près la Porte Rouge, 28 nuns

Dames de l'Instruction Chrétienne, 17 nuns

Soeurs de Notre Dame, 20 nuns

Soeurs Grises, 34 nuns

Soeurs Noires, 49 nuns

Apostolines, in two houses, 67 nuns

Soeurs de Charité, 12 nuns

Béguinage (that is, a collection of houses, in which Sisters live under a Superioress, not bound by vows for life) 54 nuns

Except the latter, where I was referred to the Director, who was not so attentive, all received the proposal warmly. The brother was my interpreter with many, who did not know French. At 1 we got home, and I took the Phillippses to the curé of the cathedral, who introduced to us M. Durlet, the young architect, who, with a partner at Louvain, is doing the beautiful work in the choir. We went into the cathedral again, and I was prevented going to two remaining convents, but the curé promised to do it for me. M. Durlet came to dine with us at the _table d'hôte_. I just called at l'Hôtel du Park, to see Miss Dalton, who is ill there. Mr. Turpin and Mr. Crowe, two Lancashire priests, are with her. The former accosted me in the cathedral. We set off then to Malines by the railway; there met Abbé Bonquéan; had tea, and went on to Louvain. We got in late, in heavy rain; Phillipps had to walk from the railway a mile in the rain. I went first to the Hôtel de Suide, where I found Dr. Ullathorne and Mr. Hansom, his architect.

7th Sunday af. Pent. July 14.--I had my palpitation worse than ever to-day. I wish to attribute it to my two days' abstinence, and not to my walking after convents. It went off after breakfast. I said mass at the Cathedral St. Pierre. High mass at 10. It was one of extreme opposition to plain chant, with drums and orchestra. In this church remember the beautiful tabernacle, a stone pinnacle, on the Gospel side of the altar. There was no _prône_, and a second high mass immediately after. The Hôtel de Ville is a famous piece of Gothic, not so admirable to my view as {288} that at Brussels, which is much larger, not so highly wrought, and has a beautiful spire. After dinner, at 1, with Dr. Ullathorne, and at the _table-d'hôte_, we went to see M. and Madame de Coux. We got into interesting talk with him on matters religions, ecclesiastical, and political. He is a professor of political economy, a Frenchman, brought up in England under old Dr. Woods. We went on till after 5, and so missed the _salut_, sermon, and procession at the church. He took us to the University, where we saw Abbé Malou, who claimed me as an old acquaintance, one of the three at the Collegio Nobile whom I knew at Rome. He is Professor of Dogmatic Theology, most learned, high bred, and amiable. M. Bonquéan came kindly to meet us from Malines, and was with us till 6. After having spent nearly an hour with M. Malou, who showed us the library (10,000 vols.) of which he is keeper, we went to tea with M. de Coux, and came home at 9½.

Monday, July 15. St. Swithin.--Mass at St. Pierre, for the Feast _de Divisione Apostolorum_. After breakfast I went again to M. de Coux, who took me to see a M. Mühler, whom he recommended as tutor to John Beaumont. At 12, railway to Liege. Dined at 5, at l'Hôtel de France. At 6, _salut_ at St. Denys. Before dinner I went to the Redemptorists, but found Père Van Held and Deschamps out of town. The Bishop also away. We went at 7 a walk to a bookseller's, from which I went in quest of the Grand Vicaire. I met an old priest in the street, Abbé Marsomme, who took me to M. Jacquenot, the second Grand Vicaire, and then walked home and took tea with us. These two promised to spread prayer for England through Liege. I wrote to Mrs. Beaumont before bed.

Tuesday, July 16.--Our Lady of Mount Carmel.--Mass at St. Denys, where is a beautiful piece of old oak carving. Phillippses received communion. After breakfast, at 9, we went to high mass at the cathedral. It was solemn plain chant. The church has many stained-glass windows, like those of Ste. Gudule, Brussels, of 1550, much gone off from the older time. The pulpit is new carved oak, with a beautiful tower with pinnacles above, a great improvement on {289} the carved pulpit above named, though not so costly perhaps. The church is much debased, as usual, in other parts. We met Chanoine Erroye, who took us to the other great church, St. Jacques, which rivals or surpasses the cathedral. The ceiling coloured, though like the cathedral. They are doing a great deal to restore this church. The Doyen was there overlooking the work. The stained glass was much better than at Brussels, but not the best (date 1527); not so far down hill. The Chanoine then took us to the Abbé Marsomme, who is Director of an hospice with 19 nuns, taking care of 180 old women, beautifully kept. The Quarant' Ore was being celebrated in this church. It is kept up in Liége all the year round, and comes four times to each church. We then went with the Chanoine Erroye to the Grand Séminaire. The library is beautiful. There are here 120 students; and at the Petit Séminaire, 360. They go through nine courses at the Petit, and three at the Grand, so that 40 are sent on the mission every year, and 40 more come on below. Came home to _table d'hôte_ at 1. After it we made an attempt to go to Angleur, 3 miles off, where Mrs. Ambrose's father, Hon. Thomas Clifford, who died at Liége in 1817, is buried. We were stopped by mud and rain, and came back, seeing the church of Ste. Croix, which was not very remarkable (_Mem_. a dog carrying the keys as porter), and St. Martin, a fine church of second rate, but famous as the place where, at one of the side altars, the feast of Corpus Christi was celebrated for the first time, owing to the inspirations received by a nun called Soeur Julienne. The 6th Centenary will be held in 1846. We met a young, amiable-looking priest in the church. He promised to think of England at the altar, in the special mass of the Blessed Sacrament, which is celebrated at it every Thursday, whatever feast may interpose. It was heavy rain, and we came home to _salut_ at St. Denys, and thence to the hotel. I wrote up a good deal of this journal.

Wednesday, July 17. St. Osmond.--We took a stouter equipage, and got to Angleur early. I said mass, and the Phillippses communicated over the place of her father's repose. The boys served the mass. The Curé, Matthias Jn. Convardy, who remembered Mr. Clifford while himself quite {290} young, gave us breakfast after, very kindly. All these priests were warm for England. We returned to Liége, and I went to the banker; then home to dinner at 1. Then went off by railway to Aix-la-Chapelle. It passes through beautiful romantic scenery. There is no railway with so many tunnels in the distance. I got into conversation with a party of Oxonians going to spend the long vacation at Baden. One of them, Mr. G. F. Brown, of Trinity, was full of information, and quite moving on, a great friend of W. Palmer, of Magdalen. He promised to visit Oscott. We came to the Hôtel Nuelleus, a very grand one. I went to the Chief Canon, the Grand Vicaire being gone to Cologne, and got leave for mass to-morrow. We are now in Prussia, and all on a sudden all German--hardly a word of French spoken. We had tea, and I finished my Journal up, in my room, after saying matins.

Thursday, July 18.--I went to the cathedral, and after mass, saw the wonderful relics which are preserved in the sacristy of the cathedral. This cathedral consists of a round Byzantine building, which was built by Charlemagne as the chapel to his palace; and a high Gothic choir, which was added to it after the palace had been burnt down. A young priest showed the relics; he is always in waiting for the purpose, except for the time of high mass and office. The great relics--viz., the dress of the Blessed Virgin, the clothes which our Lord had on Him on the cross, and the cloth into which John Baptist's head fell--are kept in a magnificent chest, which is shown, but is only opened every seven years, and when a crowned head comes. The next time is July 10, 1846. Above this chest is one containing the bones of Charlemagne, whose skull and spine-bone, and even hunting-horn, are shown in separate reliquaries. His crown and sword are at Vienna. Here is shown also the girdle of our Lord, of leather, with Constantine's seal upon it; the rope with which he was tied to the pillar; the girdle of Our Lady; and many other glorious relics less important. The interior of the doors enfolding these treasures is lined most beautifully with paintings of Albert Durer, and many admirable Byzantine paintings. {291} These relics were principally given to Charlemagne by the Caliph, Haroun Alraschid. The cases were gifts of several emperors, &c., as Lothaire, Charles V., Philip II. They were preserved in the French Revolution by a priest, who conveyed them to Paderborn and hid them. After breakfast I returned to the cathedral with Phillipps for high mass, which was in solemn plain chant, and then saw the relics again at 11½, after going to the Palais de Justice. At 12 I got a little dinner, and went by the railway to Grand, parting from the Phillippses, please God, for a fortnight only. I went to bed at the Hôtel de Flandre, leaving no luggage--all left at Malines.

Friday, July 19.--Went to the cathedral to say mass. My morning was taken up with going to the railway about my poor luggage, which at last I saw, and visiting the Provincial of the Jesuits, to see about my retreat. I dined at the hotel. The cathedral is a most beautiful specimen of the Greek fittings in a Gothic church. I did not stop to have the finest pictures uncovered, for I had my business to see after. Two other beautiful churches, St. Nicholas and St. Michael. No signs here of Gothic restorations. At 3 I went with the Provincial to Franchismes, where they have bought an ancient Prémontré Abbey, which does not preserve much of the abbey still, except some corridors, once, as it seems, cloisters. It is, however, a beautiful establishment for its end. I saw and spoke to two English and one Irish novice, of course about England. I went back to Gand; and there Père Coultins, by desire of the Provincial, went with me to the Recollets, a reform of the Franciscans; their chief house is at St. Froud. Then to the Pauvres Claires; and then to one of the two Béguinages. Here are establishments, in one of which 800, and in the other 300, _quasi_ nuns live in a cluster of separate houses.

Their origin is immemorial. They are bound by vows of obedience and chastity, not poverty, for the time that they remain. Hardly ever does one return to the world. The Père Coultins promised to visit for me the other convents of the town. This is what I could do for Ghent. At 6, I started by railway to Louvain, where I was received as an {292} old acquaintance at the Hôtel de Suide. The Provincial sends me here for my retreat. In the train to Malines, I had Mr. Maude and Mr. Perry. Finished Journal, and to bed at near 12.

Saturday, July 20.--After mass at the cathedral, and breakfast, I went to the Seminary of the Jesuits, with a letter from the Provincial to Père Rosa, the rector. He introduced me to Père Vanderghote, who is to direct my retreat, and left me with him. We went to walk about the town, called on M. Malou, who undertook to translate a prayer from Dr. Wiseman's prayers for England, into French. I called on Mr. De Coux, and at I dined with these two fathers, and we went into the garden. I then wrote to Dr. Wiseman, Phillipps, and M. Bonquéan, and at ¼ to 5 began my retreat for eight days please God, till the end of which my present journal intermits. _Orate pro me omnes qui diligitis Deum_.

Monday, July 29.--I rose this morning out of my retreat, hoping that by the help of Almighty God I may preserve some of its fruit durably. I said mass once more at 7½ in the private chapel, then after a conversation with my kind Father Vanderghote, I went to the College du Saint Esprit, where I saw M. Malou, and then went into the hall, where theses were defended by a young priest called Bacten, and then degrees conferred, and a discourse in Latin pronounced by Abbé Malou. The Nuncio and the Bishop of Amiens were there, with many others. At 2 I dined with M. Malou. The chief guests were the Grand Vicaire de Bruges, a monseigneur, and Abbé Marais, of the Sorbonne; much conversation was on England, and some good interest excited. I went again to see Père Rosa, and Vanderghote, and at 6½ was on the railway to Malines with a multitude of priests. I went to the Petit Séminaire, and supped, and M. Bonquéan walked with me to the Grue.

Tuesday, July 30.--Said mass at the cathedral, and then at 8 went to the Archbishop's palace, where, with much trouble, I got at the Chanoine's private secretary, who introduced me to the Cardinal and his five suffragan Belgian {293} Bishops of Bruges, Tournay, Gand, Namur, and Liege, sitting after breakfast. I sat down, and in a short conversation a great deal seemed to be done for the cause. I was desired to draw up documents with M. Bonquéan to-day, and to dine with the prelates at 1 to-morrow, to hear their conclusion. _Laus Deo semper_. At 10½ I went to M. Bonquéan, where I found two young Oxford men, whom I afterwards found were Christie of Oriel and his brother. They went with M. Bonquéan and me on all our rounds to the convents of the town to-day. At 12 I dined at the Petit Séminaire, then, with M. Bonquéan and M. Vandervelde, who was very zealous for England, I began to prepare for to-morrow; at 4½ the Christies came, and we walked till 7. The convents which we went to, and which all promised, and (except one which was cold) all with great warmth, were:--

Les Soeurs Hospitalières de Ste. Elisabeth, 21 nuns.

Les Marie Colae 17 nuns.

Soeurs de Charité, not St. Vincent's, but a house under the direction of the Grand Séminaire, 23 nuns.

Soeurs de Notre Dame, Abbé Bonquéan is Director here; we saw an interesting English novice, and stayed some time, 30 nuns.

Les Soeurs Apostolines, 24 nuns.

Les Pauvres Claires, not so zealous, 25 nuns.

Lastly, we visited a new house and institute called Frères de la Miséricorde, lately founded by a canon of the cathedral, by name Scheppers. There are now 27 brothers, of whom 25 are on their mission, which is to enter, several together, the prisons of the country, and devote themselves to the spiritual and bodily care and cure of the prisoners. The Government favours them remarkably; it seems a most notable institution, and the founder was a most interesting man. He promised warmly to engage all his brethren. At 7½ I went to the station, and met Elwes, on his way home from Kissengen. I brought him up, and we had supper at the Grue. I went to bed after a good bit of work to be got up, office, Journal, account, &c.

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Wednesday, July 31. St. Ignatius.--Elwes and I said mass at the cathedral. From 10 till near 1 he and I were both at work copying an address for the Bishops, of which I thought to give each a copy. At one I went to dine at the Cardinal's. There were there six Bishops and the Nuncio, and many of the chief clergy. I sat next to Mgr. de Namur; afterwards I took an hour's walk in the garden, and at 4 attended the meeting of the Bishops, who came to a happy resolution of granting an indulgence of 40 days for every mass, every communion, even hearing mass, or saying it with a memento for England, and reciting a prayer which they determined on. The Cardinal was full of noble kindness. This grant was more than I had proposed in my paper, and so my morning's work and Elwes's was useless in a very agreeable way. I went to the Grue and found M. Bonquéan and the Christies with Elwes. In packing up I found my passport was lost, and went off, therefore, uncertain whether I could pass the frontier without writing for one to Brussels. The Christies travelled with me. I had some interesting conversation with each about their position in the Church of England. They took it with great gentleness, and answered well. They seem not to have thought of coming over, and yet to be in good disposition to do what they shall see right. We met very agreeably with the very priest of whom we have heard so much, who learnt English to instruct a lady in his parish near Bruges, whose daughter was already a convert, and writes letters to Dr. Wiseman for publication in England (Miss Heron). We became great friends, and he, with another young priest, his neighbour, who are taking a little tour together, came with us to the Aigle Noir, nearer the Redemptorists than l'Hôtel de France. We were very nearly upset in the omnibus, as we came up from the station; it was overloaded with luggage, and struck the wheels on the right in the sand, having got off the paving. We got out, unhurt, into another omnibus passing by; supper, and to bed.

Thursday, August 1.--Said mass at the Redemptorists. Le Père Van Held invited us all to breakfast, i.e., the Christies {295} and the priests, our new friends. I met there the Bishop's secretary, who gave me a letter to the Governor of Liege, Baron Van der Stein, who, happily, was come this morning into town, and gave me my passport. I then went on with my _vigilante_ to see the Miss Nicholls, who have been living two years at the Benedictine convent, Quai d'Avroy. I met them last at Boulogne, in 1838. They promised to be busy in getting prayers. I then visited the Jesuits' College, and Abbé Marsomme. Dined at 1 at the _table d'hôte_ with the Christies, whom Père Van Held had sent about sight-seeing with one of his priests. At 2.45 we took the convoy to Cologne, which we reached duly at 9¼, and went to the Hôtel du Douane, Gasthof zum Kölner Dom, close to the cathedral; we took a walk round the cathedral by moonlight after supper.

Friday, August 2.--I went to say mass in the cathedral, which we then looked round. It gives a melancholy spectacle of what miserable times have been gone through while it remained thus unfinished so long; but it is a consolation to see the glorious restoration now going on. The most beautiful points of the decoration of the choir are the fresco paintings above the pillars, and the rich gilded diapering on the lower part of them round the choir, in which one column alone is finished; and beautiful figures under canopies on each column, half-way to the top. The building is surrounded with great masses of stones for the completing of it. It is expected that it will be finished, fit for consecration, in four years, but not quite complete till twenty years hence, please God, if we have peace. After breakfast we went to call on Professor Michel, at the Seminary. He could not come with us. We saw the Jesuits' church, and returned to assist at part of a requiem mass at the cathedral, the anniversary of the Archbishop Ferdinand. I spoke to the Vicar-General about England, then went home, wrote to M. Malou, dined alone; and at 1 set off by a steamboat on the Rhine for Koenigswinter, parting from the Christies in the boat. I had nothing very remarkable in the passage; reached Koenigswinter at 5. I took up my lodgings at the Hôtel de Berlin, where the Phillippses had been for twelve days. {296} They came in from a ride in the mountains about 6, and we went to tea with Count and Countess Kurtzrock. He is Mrs. Ambrose's second cousin. Their daughter Marie and her governess gave us music.

Saturday, August 3.--Said mass at the little church at Sta. Maria. The altar with altar-cloth only over the altar stone. The rest of the altar was brown wood. We breakfasted with Mrs. P.'s aunt, La Baronne de Veich, whom they are visiting. She lives in a small house with two nieces, Antoinette and Fanny Lutzou. At 10 we went across the Rhine to Gothsburg, a watering-place, where Mrs. Amherst and daughter have been staying; but they are gone to Italy. We walked up to a castle battered into ruin in the Thirty Years' war, overhanging the town. The little church half-way up the hill is a bad specimen of taste enough inside. We came back to dinner at the Baroness's at 2. I went home for two hours, then walked with Phillipps and Tony, as they call Antoinette, to see a house which she is undertaking to form into an asylum for old poor women; back to tea, and home to the hotel at 9.

Sunday, August 4. 10th after Pentecost, here marked 9th.--I heard mass at 7 with the famous Kirchen Gesang, of whom I heard from Dr. Sweers while translating Overbury's Life. All the people sang German hymns through the whole mass with wonderful unison. After it I said mass. At 10 was the high mass, i.e., another mass with Kirchen Gesang, rather more solemn; and a sermon. I came home then and wrote a letter to the Vicar-General at Cologne. I received from M. Bonquéan my book of papers pro Anglia, which I had left at Malines. At 1, dinner. Professor Schutz, of the University of Bonn, came to dine. We saw him off at 3, and then found that some one must go to Bonn to get money from the bank; so I took the charge, that I might see Bonn. I crossed the Rhine in a boat, and met an omnibus which took me on the road I travelled in 1820. The cathedral at Bonn, called the Münster, is of a style older than Gothic, but not quite Byzantine, something like our Saxon churches. The choir is elevated high above the nave, which sinks below the level outside, or the outside {297} must have risen. Some arches are Gothic. The University is a large building, what would be called Grecian. In front of it is a handsome promenade or park. At 7½ I called a second time at Professor Schutz's house, and found him with M. Marais, of the Sorbonne. He gave me coffee, &c. His rooms are full of curiosities from Palestine and Egypt. In 1819, 1820, and 1821, he was travelling, commissioned by Government, a literary journey through Egypt, Abyssinia, &c. He is Professor of Scripture, a great Orientalist, a friend of Dr. Wiseman's. We spoke about Humanarianism and Overbury, and the Paris University, &c. I went out and met my omnibus at a ¼ to 9, crossed the Rhine, and got home at 10.

Monday, August 5. Sta. Maria ad Nives.--Mass at 7½; at 9 we went to a high mass de requiem. They always sing one for every person who dies; and when the family can afford it, bread is given to the poor, as was done to-day. I stayed at home nearly, till one, then dinner at la Baronne's. Mr. Ambrose was not there, having had a fall yesterday, and taking rest for precaution. After dinner, looked over the Life of Napoleon in German; came home till I went to tea. The Count and Countess Kurtzrock and daughters came. The Countess promised to be an associate for England, and to spread it at Hamburg, where they live.

Friday, August 6th.--Mass at 6. I started at 7.30 by a steamer for Mayence. We passed Coblentz (lat. _confluentia_), at the confluence of the Moselle and the Rhine, at 1, and then dined (_table d'hôte_) on deck. We made agreeable acquaintance with two priests, M. Bandry, Chanoine of Cologne, and M. Steigmeier, a P.P. in the Black Forest. The first went off at Coblentz, the second spoke only Latin; both were highly interested for England. I was busy a good deal with reading German, with a dictionary. The weather was beautiful till about 6, when suddenly a terrible squall of wind, and thunder and lightning came on. The steamer was driven aground on a sand-bank, and seemed likely to capsize with the wind and waves. Terrible fright and crying among ladies and children. We seemed to think little of the rain and lightning which gleamed on every side {298} of us. It was very frightful; at least, it appeared so, and I saw what a warning was given here to be ready at a moment. No great preparation, I found, would be likely to be made in a time like that. It brought on me a palpitation which lasted till morning. We got off after ten minutes, as the storm blew over, and got to the Hôtel du Rhine at Mayence (Mainz) about 9. My greatest alarm since Messina.

Wednesday, Aug. 7. San. Gaetano. Remembered Affi, 1820.--Said mass at the cathedral. This is a venerable old church, St. Boniface's see. It is something like our Norman style of architecture; at the west end is a remarkable baptistery, with a high vaulted roof now opening to the church. There are many fine monuments, and many more of the worst style; fauns and dragons supporting archbishops, &c. They showed us a holy-water stoup, where Gustavus Adolphus, having ridden into the church, made his horse drink! Near the church is a statue of Guttenburg, the first printer, claimed as a citizen of Mainz; bas-reliefs by Thorwaldsen. We had not time to see more. I was not disposed, with my palpitation just subsiding, to go after the Archbishop or others. We started past for Manheim; on the way we looked at the torn-down cathedral of Worms, in a later style than Mayence, and very venerable. This place was famous in the contests between Charles V. and Luther. We dined at Manheim, then took the railway to Heidelberg, where we put up at the Badische Hof. We saw nothing at Manheim but the appearance of the town, which is very handsome. A French gentleman whom I met in the town, Girardon, of Lyons, said the ducal palace was very grand.

Thursday, Aug. 8.--I went out at 9½, having had rather a bad night, and said mass at the Jesuits' old church, which is now the only exclusively Catholic church in Heidelberg. The curé lives in an old college; the church was dreary and empty, and things seem to be at a low point. We went after breakfast in a carriage to the ruins of the castle, which are fine in their way, but not of the right style. Luther was fostered here by the Elector Palatine. It was burnt by {299} lightning in 1764. In the altar we saw the great tun, which is no wonder to my mind. At 11 we took the railway to Baden, through Carlsruhe. There we took a walk before dinner, saw the gaming-table, which is a famous occupation here; I never saw one before in a public saloon. I met Mr. Woollett. a Catholic of London, and his two daughters. He wants confession to an English priest, and I went with him to the convent of the Sepulchrines to see about it. They promised prayers for England. 12 nuns; the same order as New Hall; dinner at 5. Then we took a carriage to the ruins of the old castle, much grander than at Heidelberg. I did not venture to go up the castle, as I felt myself not fit. We came back to tea with Mrs. Craven, née La Ferronaye, wife of the English _Chargé d'affaires_, who is a convert. We met l'Abbé Martin de Nerlieu, curé de S. Jaques à Paris, and his vicaire, and Miss Jane Young. Home at 9½.

Friday, August 9.--I had to take a carriage and go at 6 o'clock to Lichtenthal, a mile or two from Baden, where the Herr Landherr is curé, and has power to give leave to hear confessions. There is a convent there of 18 nuns, Bernardines, who promised to pray for England. I returned and said mass at the convent in Baden, having first heard the confessions of Mr. Woollett and Miss Young's maid. I thought that night, as I lay in bed with my heart beating, that I must see a doctor to-day, and consult about the propriety of travelling; but the Phillippses both reasoned against this, and I saw it differently by daylight. We dined at the _table d'hôte_ at 1, and then set off on our way towards Munich. We travelled to-day through the grand scenery of the Black Forest, and arrived at 9 at Neuenburg, where there was a very civil host, and a nice inn, though a second rate.

Saturday, August 10. St. Lawrence.--The first, I think, (no, except 1835), on which I have lost mass since my priesthood; but there was no Catholic church. We made a slow day's journey; we began badly by going the first stage to Wildbad, from which we returned nearly to Neuenburg, as it seemed on our road right. The reason was, as we {300} thought, that they directed us wrong yesterday, and sent us a longer road, whereas we should have got straight to Wildbad, without going to Neuenburg. We should have had a chapel at Wildbad, where a priest came during the season only. We got to Stuttgard at 5, and had a splendid dinner at the hotel. We met an old courier of Mr. Phillipps's, afterwards clerk at the Foreign Office, who lives here on a pension from England. He knew Cavani. He lives now at this hotel. Stuttgard seems an uninteresting place for a capital; has 4,000 inhabitants only. It is well to have seen it. We went on again in the evening to get to Göppingen, where we we were told there was a Catholic church, and we did not get to bed till 2; I fasting for to-morrow, and fearing a bad night.

Hôtel de la Poste, Sunday, Aug. 11.--I slept well, after all. I got up at 8, and we started directly in heavy rain for Gross Eplingen, two miles on our way, where the nearest Catholic church was. There was none in Göppingen. We arrived at the middle of the parochial mass. The Kirchen Gesangen are very impressive. After it I said mass, and after visiting the pastor, we went on to Ulm, which we reached at 5 about. Radhoff (Wheat) Hotel. Before dinner we went and spent a long time in the old cathedral, now a Lutheran church, and for that reason, however strangely, preserved wonderfully from spoiling. It was most magnificent; the aisles divided by most elegant pillars, a most glorious tabernacle, still standing, far surpassing Louvain. The old triptic, with a beautiful group in wood-carving, still over the altar; a beautiful pulpit in the style of the tabernacle; the screen was gone; and the stained glass preserved only in the choir and one or two more places; but so far, I thought it the richest I knew. It was wonderful how much better was the appearance of the church than if it had been in Catholic hands. After dinner was busy upstairs till 10½.

Monday, Aug. 12.--Got up at 5½; we were taken to the Catholic church, a poor thing, compared with the ancient one. I said mass there at 8; at 9½ we started for Augsburg. There was nothing remarkable on the way but the {301} excessive slowness of the Bavarian post-boys; they are remarkable, I believe, among the Germans. We dined about 5, at a small town called Tusmarchausan, a neat, clean, country town. Talked French with an old Italian who attends at the inn, and Latin with a Dominican priest, in a blue great-coat and Hessian boots. We set off again at 7, and reached Augsburg at 9½ or 10. Put up at the Three Moors,--Drei Mohren.

Tuesday, Aug. 13.--Went to say mass at the Church of St. Ulrick, at the altar of St. Afra, whose body was shown in a glass case over it, as it is within the octave of her feast. She was martyred at Augsburg, under Domitian. After breakfast, I went to the bank, then to the cathedral, where there was a high mass _de requiem_; then I went to seek the Chanoine Stadler, a great friend of the English. I first saw another canon, and the Dean, at the consistorium; spoke about England. I found Canon Stadler at a convent called _of the English nuns_, because founded by English 200 years ago; an examination of the girls under education was going on. The Regierung's President and other personages were there. I sat near the canon at this for half an hour; then went home to dinner. There came to dine a Scotch Kirk minister, who was at the convent which I visited, Mr. ---- He is almost a Catholic in doctrine, but is connected with the Apostolics in England, and so has, I think, no disposition to turn now. Canon Stadler came late to dinner, and persuaded me to put off our journey to Munich from the three to the seven o'clock train. He took us to the Church of the Holy Cross, to see the miraculous Host, which, in 1194, was stolen by a woman of Augsburg, taken home, and wrapped in wax. After five years, she confessed it, and brought it back. On opening the wax, the priest found the appearance changed into that of flesh and blood. It has been preserved ever since, and has been the means of many miracles. We saw it in an _ostensoire_, quite bright-red. The choir of the church is surrounded with pictures on the subject. We then went to the convent again, from, whence the Scotch gentleman took me to the bishop, whom we found near the cathedral. He talked no French, and I {302} recommended England as I could in Latin. We went to the Canon Stadler's house, where the Phillippses were waiting; we parted from him, and came and had tea at the Hof, and then took railway to Munich. We reached the Bayerische Hof, Hôtel de Bavière, at 9 3/4. This is one of the largest hotels in Europe, they say.

Wednesday, Aug. 14. Vigil of the Assumption.--I said mass in the cathedral, which is near our hotel. It is a high, large building, but very much disfigured. We all stayed at home till 12; then Phillipps and I went to call on Dr. Döllinger, who was out. I had to dine alone, as it is reckoned wrong for a priest to _manger gras_ on a fasting day in public. After dinner, we all went to see the new Church of St. Louis, decorated splendidly by the King. Then the Church of St. Blaise in the faubourg, also decorated by him, both built by the town. We thought them very beautiful, but decidedly falling short of the right mark in point of style. In Ludwig Church is a _chef d'oeuvre_ of Cornelius, "The Last Judgment." It is not to our taste, nor to the king's; for Cornelius went away to Berlin, disgusted with the king's not admiring it. Among other defects, there are no real altars, only portable stones to be let into scagliola altars, which in Ludwig Kirche are all exactly one like the other. At 7, I went to the Franciscan convent, to confess to Père Constantius. He introduced me to the Provincial and community at supper. I spoke of England in lame Latin. At supper, in the hotel, we were joined by Mr. Wake, son of the Rev. Mr. Wake, of Courtene Hall, who recognised me, after about seventeen years. He alarmed us with his idea that a war will break out between France and England about Pritchard. What a war would this be!

Thursday, Aug. 15. Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary.--I had some difficulty in getting leave to hear the Phillippses' confessions, but I succeeded, and said mass at nine, during the high mass, with drums and all sort of music. We went again to mass at 11; then Phillipps and I went and found Döllinger, who came back and dined with us at the _table d'hôte_. Then we walked with him to see Mr. and Mrs. Phillipps. He is a Professor of law, son of an Englishman {303} in Prussia. Then we went to see old Mr. Gorres, one of the first minds in Germany. At 8, we went to tea with Mr. and Mrs. Rio, the sister to Jones of Llanarth. We found there Mr. Dugdale, a northern English priest, and others. The conversation was very agreeable. Mrs. Rio is very infirm with sciatica, or settled pains like it.

Friday, Aug. 16.--Mass at the cathedral at 11. We went with Mr. Dugdale to the Pinacotheke, a grand building of this king, containing the vast collection of pictures which I saw with Lefevre at Schlussheim in 1820. What struck me most was the gallery on one side of the building, ornamented like Raphael's, in the Vatican. We dined at two; then went to see the new palace, which is opened at times regularly to all visitors. We went among a party of all sorts. I was recognised by Lady Lowther--that was, at least. This was from Lowther Castle, 1816. In the palace, the floors are beautiful wood-work, inlaid. Some rooms have fine pictures of the former German history, of Charlemagne, Barbarossa, Rodolph of Hapsburg, &c. The hall of audience is surrounded with striking colossal statues of ancient dukes of Bavaria. We cannot say much for the two rooms of Bavarian beauties; the king's fondness for them is not edifying, they say. From the palace we went to the studios; at half-past 7 went to tea at Dr. Döllinger's, and met almost all whom we visited yesterday, and, besides, Mr. Windischmann, canon of the cathedral. I got a long conversation with him in English. He became very zealous for promoting the prayers for England. There was there Mr. Raby, of Leicester, who was at Munich with his mother; his sister is become a nun at Nymphenburg.

Saturday, Aug. 17.--Said mass at the cathedral at 8½. After breakfast, I visited Mr. and Mrs. Farrell and their family, who are in this hotel. He is uncle to John Farrell. She said she had seen me at Leamington with Mr. Martyn. Then Count de Senufft Pilsach, Austrian ambassador, to whom Mr. Phillipps brought a note from Father Lythgoe, called. We then walked to the palace, and saw the rich chapel, in which many relics are kept in cases of gold and silver, with pearls and jewels, some carved by Benvenuto Cellini; the right hand {304} of St. John Baptist and St. Chrysostom among them, and some earth stained with the blood of Our Lord. A little triptic used on the scaffold by Mary Queen of Scots. We then went to the palace of the Duc de Leuchtenberg, son of Eugene Beauharnais. One room full of modern paintings, and another much larger, with a very choice collection of the Italian and Flemish schools, struck me. Dr. Döllinger dined with us, and then took us to the Public Library, a magnificent building, calculated for 1,000,000 volumes, and containing now 500,000, lately built by Ludwig I. We stayed a long time looking about it, and then went on to the University, another new building, very splendid. Dr. Döllinger is rector this next year. The library here is of 200,000 vols.; he is the chief librarian of it. We returned at 8, looking in, _en passant_, to the Ludwig Kirche. A beautiful sunset.

Sunday, August 18.--I went by invitation to say mass at the Auer Kirche, _i.e._, the new Gothic church in the suburb Au. Trusting to the fine sunset of last night, I took no umbrella, and very nearly got a wetting before I got home. At 9, Mr. Schlager called on me. He is studying the law, and looks so smart that I did not of myself recognize him. We went to high mass at the Theatine church. At 12, I went with Mr. Windischmann, to be presented to the Nuncio, Mgr. Vichi, to plead for England. I could not do much, as other visitors came in. After dinner, we went to seek vespers unsuccessfully at the Theatine church. At 5, we took a carriage, and went to the Sisters of Charity, where we got on badly for want of German, and saw nothing but the church, where service was going on. We then went to the public cemetery, near it. It is in the style of Père la Chaise, but inferior. What is remarkable is the place where the bodies newly dead are exposed for three days before burial. We saw several behind glass windows, dressed out and adorned with flowers. After coming home, I went at 7½ to Professor Görres's. He has open house for the circle of his friends every Sunday evening. Dr. Döllinger wished us all to go, but Phillipps thought it hardly proper without an invitation. There were twelve at supper; among them Dr. {305} Döllinger, Phillipps, Moy. The party was very agreeable, though I knew nothing of the German conversation, except what Dr. Döllinger translated to me. I came home at half-past 10.

Monday, August 19.--Said mass at the cathedral. Mrs. Dugdale came after breakfast, and went with us to the Glyptotheke, where are some fine pieces of ancient sculpture. I suppose the AEgina marbles are among the most valued. They are of an earlier style than the perfect models of Greek sculpture, finely designed but stiff. The whole thing is too heathenish and so immodest. It is a mystery to me how all these sights are consistent with Catholic principle, especially the Venuses and Adonises by Christian masters, like Canova. The building is very noble. We went thence to what was far more satisfactory, the Basilica, built on the plan of the old church of St. Paul, at Rome, 300 feet long, with two ranges of glorious holy pictures, one range being the whole history of our English St. Boniface. I hope this is there as a memorial of what Germany owes to England, and as an excitement to pray for us. I came back to receive Mr. Schlager to dine with me at the _table d'hôte_. Phillipps dined at Mr. Rio's, where I joined them at 3, having first gone with Mr. Schlager to his lodgings. Rio talked splendidly about England, and Dr. Döllinger promised to write articles to call to prayer for it. I came home at 5, said office in the cathedral, and at 7½ we went to supper with Dr. and Mrs. Phillipps, where we met all the circle, the Görreses, Windischman, Döllinger, Rios, Mrs. Raby, Mrs. Dugdale, &c.

Tuesday, August 20. St. Bernard.--Mass at the cathedral at 10. I took a carriage and went with Mrs. Dugdale and Mrs. Raby to Nymphenburg, where is the principal convent of the English nuns, of which I saw a house at Augsburg. There are ten houses in Bavaria; Mrs. Raby's daughter is a novice there. We stopped a good while, and I hope a good step was taken in my work. Mr. Dugdale promises to follow up ardently the begging prayers. I came home before 2, and stayed at home till 5, when we went with the two boys to a grand dinner with le Comte de Zeuft, {306} the Austrian ambassador. There were twenty at table: the Nuncio, Mr. Aebel, minister of the interior, the chief Catholic physician, a Polish Countess Kitzka, and all our friends the Professors were there. I sat between Dr. Phillipps and Windischman. We stayed till near 10. The Comte de Zeuft promised great help for England. It is my first opening in Austria. Mrs. Aebel assured me that the Government would be well pleased with whatever was done in this way, which is a great point secured. I also had an interesting talk on the subject with the Countess Kitzka, who proposed prayer for Poland also on Saturdays. This was, in short, a productive evening.

Wednesday, August 21.--Mass at the cathedral. I walked with Mr. Dugdale to the convent of Sisters of Providence joining the great hospital we failed in entering on Sunday. We got one nun who spoke a little French to show us over the hospital, but we made little of gaining prayers. I found palpitations coming from the walk, and so I came home and stayed till I went with Phillipps to dine at 4 with the Nuncio. The chief guests were Comte de Zeuft and Baron Frujberg, _conseilleur d'état_, and twelve or fourteen more. The Nuncio took charge of the little prayer for England adopted by the Belgian bishops, and promised to get ample indulgences at Rome for the masses, communions, and prayers for England. We came home and took Mrs. Phillipps to tea at Dr. Döllinger's, Baron Frujberg, Rio, Hüffler, the historian of the German popes of the 11th century.

Thursday, August 22.--Mass at 8. I stayed at home writing to Dr. Wiseman from 11 to 12; then went with Dr. Döllinger to be presented to Madame di Frujberg, and her sister Amelia de Mongeras. Talked about England and prayers. At home I found Comte de Zeuft and the Nuncio paying a visit. Then dinner at 2½. Mr. Windischman took me to see the Archbishop, 84 years old. He has his intellect quite sound, and was favourable to the prayers, but not very zealous. I came home and stayed till 7, writing to Mrs. Beaumont and Mrs. Canning, saying office, &c. At 7 Mr. and Mrs. Rio and two children, Dr. Phillipps, {307} Döllinger, and Windischman came to tea and supper, so a parting visit. Little Miss Rio got sick with the smoke in the salon.

Friday, August 23.--Mass at 7½ in the cathedral for the last time. After breakfast a visit from Mr. Dugdale and old Görres, and a talk with Mr. Woodwich, a very nice young Anglican, whom Phillipps met at Cologne, and came yesterday to Munich. The horses came for our departure at 11, but we did not start till ¼ to 1. I sat in the carriage saying office. We had a pretty journey, approaching a line of fine mountains. We reached a town called Tegern See, and we put up at Le Troitteur Hof. When we came to dine, we found ourselves worse off than we have yet been. No bread without aniseed, and hardly enough to eat for all but me, who took meat. However, this is an interesting spot. Out of my window I have a sweet view of the lake and mountains opposite, with a bright moon upon them.

Saturday, August 24.--I went before 7 to find the old priest to say mass. The church is a handsome one attached to a large building which once was a Benedictine convent, but was turned by the old king, my former acquaintance, into a country palace. Prince Charles lives here now. The old priest was one of the monks. There are four now alive out of forty-three. We started at 9, and went through beautiful mountain scenery, especially that part of the road which lies along the bank of Achensee, a beautiful blue lake. We dined at about 2, at Achenthal, just before coming to the lake. We were delayed by a spring breaking, and only reached Schwartz, a town of 4,500 people. The inn La Poète is kept by Anthony Reiner, one of a family of three men and a sister, who about 1830 were 2½ years in England, singing Tyrolese songs, and made £4,000. Mrs. Ambrose heard them at Sir Thomas Acland's. We had tea in the billiard-room, and saw some beautiful play.

Sunday, Aug. 25.--I said mass at 6½, at the Franciscan church. In the convent are twenty-one priests and twenty-five students, besides lay brothers. I recommended England and was kindly heard. After breakfast we went together to the parish church; at 8 a sermon begins--we heard the end of it, preached by a Franciscan. Mass follows the {308} sermon. The style of music, both here and in the Franciscan church, where I heard part of the high mass, is high figured. We set off for Innspruck after. It was raining all the way. We arrived at 2 at the Golden Sun (die goldene Sonne), in a fine wide street. We had dinner, during which we were surprised and pleased by a visit from Mrs. Amherst and Mary. She has a house in this street, and saw us pass by. Three daughters are with her. Soon after we went to see the Franciscan church, in which is the famous monument of Maximilian, and round it bronze figures of illustrious personages, and on the side a marble monument of Hoffa. They are not all saints, and it is thought to be an unbecoming ornament to a church. They certainly cause distractions by the number of people who come to see the sculpture, which makes this small church almost like a Glyptotheke. After this, Mrs. Amherst took me to the Redemptorists, where Father Prost talks English, and received me most cordially, and presented me to the Rector. I then went to the Franciscan convent, where, as at Munich, I saw the fathers at supper, and recommended England to the Provincial, who promised to convey my wishes to the 300 subjects of the 10 houses of his province. In this little house there are eight priests. He sent a man to take me to the Decanus, living near the parish church, to ask for leave to hear confessions to-morrow. He was a most amiable, kind old man, and promised to speak for me to all the clergy. I went to meet our party at tea with the Amhersts at 7, and had a very pleasant evening. Home at 9¼.

Monday, Aug. 26th.--Father Prost gave himself to me all to-day. I went to say mass at the Redemptorist church; breakfasted there; then went out with him to the hospital of the Sisters of Charity, where there are 15 nuns, and it is the mother house of about eight houses in all. They are under the direction of the Redemptorists. Then to the Jesuits' college, where we saw the Rector; then to dine with the Redemptorists at 12. They are about ten in number. The Rector is most zealous for my cause. At 2 we walked out of the town to a fine Premonstratensian {309} abbey to which belong 42 monks; but about half are employed as coadjutors to parish priests. The Abbot received us very kindly, and showed us all over his house, which has a great suite of fine rooms, full of pictures of great personages. We came back to settle for my departure to-morrow; and lastly visited the Servites. They have a fine large house in the great street. Their number is only fifteen. Lastly, we called on a lady who can talk English, having learned it, where Father Prost did, in America. I went at 6½ to tea with the Amhersts, among whom I also found William just come. I went home to stay at the Redemptorists, in order to be able to say mass to-morrow. The Rector and Father Prost sat some time with me.

Tuesday, Aug. 27th.--Said mass at 3½; at 4½, Father Prost saw me in the still-wagen, or omnibus, for Brixen. I forgot to say that Phillipps agreed with me to meet at Caldaron on Thursday. They went off yesterday by Landeck, Marenn, &c., for finer scenery. I took my way to see the Bishop of Brixen. My principal companions were four students at the Inspruck University, going out for their vacations. They were two couples of brothers, one called Ehrhart, the other Benz, all of Inspruck. The weather was become beautiful, and we went through splendid scenery. We went over the Brenner mountain, and were going till 8 o'clock at night. We stopped three times for refreshment: at Matraey, Strarzing, and Mittewald. We came to the Kreutz Hof--the Cross Inn--at Brixen, where I took my bed. First, I went to see a pleasing old priest, by name Graffanara, who is Domscholasticus here, and whom I saw by chance at Inspruck. He told of the Bishop being gone to Botzen, and introduced me to the Decanus and Parish Priest, to settle for mass to-morrow.

Wednesday, Aug. 28th. Great St. Augustine's.--I was up soon after 3, and went to the Pffarr-Kirche, where I said mass at 4. The Pffarr treated me with extraordinary respect and kindness, and came back with me to my inn, where I started again, with the same company, to Botzen, in another still-wagen, at 5. We followed the downward course of a beautiful torrent, through rocks and mountains {310} all the way, till we reached Botzen, at 12. I went to the Kaiser's Krone, and dined at the _table d'hôte_ at 12½, next to an English gentleman, by name Harley, who was chiefly taken up with attacks on cookery out of England. He was a man of much information, and gave gloomy accounts of the prospect of war with France. His father was an admiral. I stayed at home till 4½, then went out to the Capuchins and then to the Capellani--the Paroco being out. The chief Capellano came back with me to the hotel, and waited till the Bishop of Brixen came in. He had been out in the country. I was admitted to see him, but quite disappointed in my hopes of finding help from him. He gave me no signs of zeal, and hardly spoke of England. Perhaps it may be for the better some way. No doubt disappointments are good for me, and so thank God for this one. I afterwards went to the Franciscans, where I found real sympathy in one of the fathers, with whom I walked in the garden. This was a refreshment after the Bishop. In the evening I had a visit from the young Baron Giovanelli, whose father has some authority about sending people to see Maria Mörl. He could hardly speak Italian, and though very civil, did not help me much.

Thursday, 29th.--The good Bishop sent me to-day a present of a large number of religious prints, with German instructions, and showed thus his good will to me; and I hope it may be well for my cause. At 7½ I said mass in the cathedral. At 10 I went in a one-horse carriage to Calddaron, or more rightly Caltern. I went directly to see Father Capistrano, confessor to Maria Mörl, at a Franciscan convent, and then dined at the White Horse inn. At 4½, according to his direction, I went to the convent of the Tertiariae, where Maria Mörl has been for ten years, being removed from her father's house by the Bishop, at her own request, to avoid being seen by so many people. I waited in the convent church till Father Capistrano, who is a tall and venerable monk, I suppose of forty-five years old, came to call me, with eight or nine other persons, to see the _estatica_. (N.B. Father Capistrano told me that the Bishop of Brixen is very deaf, and probably understood nothing of {311} what I talked about, which explains all my disappointment.) We went into a small room within her convent, rather darkened, where the first sight of Maria on her knees upon her bed was most striking. She kneels with her head and eyes fixed upwards, her hands joined before her breast, just below the chin, and her body leaning forwards in a position out of the centre of gravity, in which, ordinarily, no one could continue without support. It is most moving to see her thus--I think more so than in any of the other positions which she assumed. This was the time when on every Thursday she goes through the contemplation of the Agony of Our Lord; and so, soon after we came in, she being quite unconscious of what goes on around her, began to make signs in her throat of earnest emotion, and then, clenching her hands together, she dropped her head over them, her long, flowing hair being thrown forward over her face, as it were accompanying our Lord in the commencement of His prayer in the garden; after about five minutes thus, she suddenly bends down, placing her face between her knees, as when our Lord was prostrate in His agony. After another five minutes, she rises, her face again fixed with expression of intense earnestness on heaven, and her arms extended back downwards, as expressing perfect resignation. After five or ten minutes thus, she returns calmly to her original attitude of prayer, and thus remained till Father Capistrano spoke to her by name, saying a few words almost indistinctly, and she instantly returned to herself, reclined back on her bed, and, without exertion of moving her limbs, appeared simply recumbent, with the bed-cover over her whole body. I did not see her rise again, but this is done instantly without effort, in the same way. The moment that she was thus awakened from the ecstasy, she looked round on us all with great good-humour, and smiled; and, being forbidden to speak, she made many signs, asking questions of some whom she knew before. One priest, il Conte Passi, offered her some cotton perfumed from the body of Sta. Maria Maddalena di Pazzi; but she would not have it, nor smell it, refusing it in a truly pleasant way. I spoke of praying for England, and she nodded graciously, but did not take much {312} apparent notice. I suppose she does it about nothing but what comes by obedience. If the conversation had a pause, she immediately became again absorbed in God till Father Capistrano recalled her again. After a proper time, he gave us signs to retire; on which she earnestly made signs for a cartoon-box full of holy prints to be brought, and she began with great earnestness to turn them over, seeming to recollect herself very intently. She then gave me two, and afterwards another. I was struck when I saw the first was a figure of St. George, as she had not heard my name I knew. Afterwards, I supposed she might allude only to England, as she knew I was English. Soon after, she fell back into ecstasy as she lay, and we went away. I walked down to the inn with Conte Passi and a priest of the place, who visits her nearly every day. I began a letter, when, about 6, I was agreeably surprised by seeing Phillipps and his party drive up. He and I went to the Franciscan convent, but could not see Father Capistrano. Conte Passi and I slept in the same room, and into a third bed tumbled some one else, I thought, like the ostler, after we were in bed. I slept none the worse, and why should I?

Friday, Aug. 30.--Said mass in the parish church at eight. Phillipps after breakfast went and had a long conversation with Father Capistrano, who received to-day a letter from the Bishop of Trent, to give leave for all of us to see the _estatica_. Phillipps came back with wonderful accounts of Father Capistrano's views of the future in the Church. He has no bright anticipations. I wrote all the morning, letters to Dr. Döllinger, Signor Giovanelli, and Mr. LeSage Ten Broek. We dined at 1. At 2½ we all went to the convent church, where, as yesterday, P. Capistrano came to take us to la Mörl. Three o'clock, being the time of Our Lord's death, this is the subject of her contemplation at that time every Friday. Soon after we came in, from the attitude of prayer in which we found her as yesterday; she again clasped her hands, and, looking up with an expression of suffering, she continued for some time to make a sort of sobbing noise, and stertation, as I have seen people dying of apoplexy; this grew more painful till, exactly at {313} three, she dropped her head forward, and her hands yet clasped hung down before her and so she remained quite motionless, still leaning forward beyond the perpendicular, "_inclinato capite emisit spiritum_." This continued till, at one of those almost inaudible suggestions of the confessor, she fell back on the bed, as yesterday, but still in ecstasy, and extended her hands in the form of a crucifix. The fingers were guttered over the palm of the hands, but yet we saw plainly in the palm the sacred stigma. I saw it yesterday outside both her hands, quite plainly, as she was distributing the prints. The marks are not as of an open wound, but red cicatrices like those represented in pictures of Our Saviour when risen from the dead. Father Capistrano said that she eats a little bread and fruit occasionally, not every day; she communicates three or four times a week; she sleeps generally in the night, I understood, but her spirit still continues in a less degree of contemplation. She had a younger sister with her in the convent, to wait on her. The Emperor allows her 400 florins a year. On more solemn feasts, the ecstasy is more intense, and she then appears for a time raised above the bed, touching it only with the tips of her feet. The priest whom I saw yesterday says that he has himself passed his hand at those times under her knees without touching them. It is a rule that no money is given by visitors either to her or the convent. We went away, and prepared for our departure about 4. I engaged a small one-horse carriage to go to _Egna_ in Italian, in German _Neumarkt_, intending to see the _Addolorata_, and to meet the Phillippses again at Venice. I began to have a distaste to the rude-looking driver, at the first sight, still more, when I found that the carriage belonged to a priest who had come from Egna this morning. I made it straight for time by taking him with me. A second nuisance was, finding, when I set off, that Phillipps had to go to the same place, as his first stage towards Trent. In a narrow road down the hill, out of Caldaro, we met an immense number of carts, loaded with hay, and drawn by oxen, from eighty to a hundred, which was a good delay, and Phillipps's carriage got terribly scratched in passing one. At {314} Egna, I put up at the Krono. I went out to see a priest, who took me to the Franciscans about saying mass tomorrow. I preached England.

Saturday, Aug. 31.--I fell into the hands of the sulky driver of yesterday, who undertook to find me a mule to go over the mountains at once to Capriana, but he came last night to say none was to be found; I heard before that there was danger of this in harvest time. I therefore first said mass at the Franciscans', at 3 o'clock, doubtful whether it was not uncanonically early, and at 4 went with my friend driving me, with one horse on the left of the pole, to Cavallesi, a small town in the mountains, which we reached at 8 o'clock. There I saw the physician of Dominica Lazzari, whom Count Passi told me to go to. He was very civil, and recommended me a pleasant guide, who at 9 set off, walking by the pony which I rode to Cavallesi. The day was beautiful, and not too hot for me, though it was for him on foot. It was a most interesting, picturesque ride of 2¼ hours, reminding me of my Sicilian and other rides long since, and I was surprised how this seemed to agree with me now. Capriana is a little very poor village, occupying a spot on an open space, high among the mountains. The very first cottage in the body of the town, and one of the poorest, is where this wonderful being spends her suffering days. The Medico Yoris had written me a note to the primissario, or second priest to the curate, who is Dominica's confessor, who might have helped me about seeing her; but he was not at home, so we went to the house at once. The door of the little place, a part of a building, where Dominica lives with her sister, was locked. The sister was out. I heard her groaning slightly at every breath. She made something of an answer when my guide knocked. He went to seek her sister, and came back saying that she begged us to delay a little, as others had been with her, and she was much fatigued. So we went to the Osteria, and got the best they could give, which was a _brodo d'acqua_, in English, I fancy, tea-kettle broth. This shows that the place is not chosen for its riches to be honoured by God with His wonders. After this pause we returned to the little house, {315} which has a Tyrolese roof overhanging, and a little gallery outside her door. The sister, who is married and has her children about her, took us in, and in an inner room we saw the Addolorata in her bed. Her appearance naturally will not have been interesting, like that of Maria Mörl, but rather of an ordinary young countrywoman, of low stature, like her sister. She has ordinarily the appearance of great pain and suffering; but when I spoke to her about England, she lifted her eyes and moved her hands in a way more earnest than _l'estatica_, and showed great feeling at the thought of its conversion. Now for her appearance: her face was almost all covered with clotted blood, which flowed, I suppose, yesterday morning, for so it does every Friday, from the punctures as of thorns on her brow. These were not, as I expected, irregularly placed as by a crown of thorns made at hazard, but they formed a line close together on the forehead, and do not go round the head to the back part. Her legs were gathered up as if the sinews were contracted; her body, the doctor told me, is all covered with sores, which, the more that is done to cure, the worse they grow. She keeps her hands clenched before her heart, and groans slightly with every breath. On her hands were seen stigmata, much more marked than Maria Mörl, like fresh wounds by a nail passing through and sinking into the flesh. Her sister said the same was the case with her side and feet. I only spoke to her a little about England, and was delighted at her manner then, which shows how superior she is to her pains. It seems to distress her to be too near her, and as I have learned since it does. She is always hot; her sister was fanning her all the time, and in the depth of winter it is the same thing, when snow drives into her room. She also gives her prints; she made her sister show her prints out of a little case, and when she has chosen them she kisses them and gives them to each with great kindness. There were a young man and woman there, who offered money for them to her sister, but she will take nothing. The sight of her is not at first so striking and pleasing as of la Mörl, but the remembrance is more impressive. It seems a state more meritorious, more humble. It is more poor, and patient. {316} Having been delayed so long, I could not get to Cavallesi till 3; the sulky face of the driver betokened no good for my return; the horse, too, he said was ill, and in fine, he brought me to Egna just too late for the still-wagen to Lavorno, and I was not so patient as I ought to have been after seeing that example, but I was helped by it a little. I had to take a carriage for myself and the same miserable driver, who was going to sleep all the way, and grunted at me once when I awoke him. I got to a nice inn at Lavorno, the white house again.

Sunday, Sept. 1.--I started at 5 by a still-wagen for Trent, all alone in it. I came to the Rose Inn, and waited to say mass at the Church di S. Maria Maggiora, where the Council of Trent was held, and prayed, as usual on Sundays, for the gift of Faith, which was appropriate here. The church is quite uninteresting in appearance. I breakfasted at a cafe, and went about my way of travelling; then at ¼ to 11 went and heard the end of a high mass. I thought to be in time for all. After it I was very happy in getting myself introduced to the Bishop, who was extremely agreeable, and said he prayed daily for England, and promised to recommend it to Maria la Mörl, and to all the clergy. I left, as if I need take no more trouble about Trent. I went to the Rosa, and stayed there quiet till dinner at 12½, and then till 4, writing my long days of late in the Journal. At 4, I got into a carriage carrying four inside to Roveredo, where I got to the Corona, and went to bed at 8½ or 9.

Monday, Sept. 2.--I set off soon after 3½ with an old _vetturino_, who rather displeased me last night in making his bargain, by his flattering way; but I found him a nice old man, and very civil. We got to Bosketto, on the banks of the Adige (which indeed we followed all day), at 7¼. I said mass and breakfasted. Then we went on to dine at a single house, called Ospitaletto. We stayed from 12 to 2; I wrote two letters. We then started and got to Verona at 4, to the Hotel di Londra. I took a _laquais de place_, and walked to Count Persico's house. I was sorry to find him in the country. Then to the Jesuit Noviciate, where I {317} thought I might possibly find Connolly. The Superior showed me Padre Odescalchi's room, where he passed his noviciate. I recommended myself to his prayers. I had been reading on the road his memoirs, given me at Louvain. The Superior promised to recommend England. I went then to the cathedral, and the Bishop being out, I saw the Vicario, who kindly promised to speak for me to the Bishop. I then went into the cathedral, where there was a brilliant illumination, and a most solemn benediction, and then a litany before the altar of the Blessed Virgin, which reminded me of the holy litanies of Rome. I have seen nothing like this on the Continent, nor have I seen a town so full of respectable clergy in every part. Came home and to bed at 8½.

Tuesday, Sept. 3rd.--Started at 4 with my new _vetturino_, who cheated me as usual, but was civil. It rained almost all day. I said mass at a place called Montebello, and got to Vicenza to dine at 11½. Then started for Padua with a new _vetturino_, and had for company an old and a young Roman priest. The old one was Bighi, a well-known professor, who taught Dr. Wiseman and S. Sharples, &c., and was full of kindness to me. I talked myself almost hoarse with him. They stopped at Padua. I went on railroad to Venice. I sat by a priest of Illyricum of the _scuole pie_ of St. Joseph Calasanctius; but what was wonderful was my being in the midst of Mrs. Neville and her family, whom Mrs. Rio desired me to see, coming back from a visit to Vicenza. We kept together all across the Sayburne, and made a great acquaintance. I got into a gondola, and had to go a great round to put down another young man, who had already engaged it. I had a great battle about my fare, and for a wonder I conquered. I waited a little, having my chocolate, when Phillipps and all came in, and we made a happy meeting, giving an account of our respective travels.

Wednesday, Sept. 4th.--I went at 7 to say mass at San Marco, but was obliged to wait till 8, as they are very strict here not to allow a priest to mass without leave from the Patriarch, except the first day, when, as to me, leave {318} is given. I breakfasted at a cafe, then went with Phillipps to St. Georgio dei Greci, and heard a high mass of the schismatic Greeks, of whom there is a colony at Venice; the occasion was the octave of the Assumption, old style. The mass was all celebrated behind a close screen; which is open part of the time, but not during the most solemn part. After the consecration, the host and chalice are carried outside this screen in procession, and presented for adoration; one man before us was making his prostrations all the time. The priests had chasubles, hanging evenly all round to near the ankles; they lifted them to use their hands; there is no musical instrument, but singing all the time. I then went to the Cancellaria to get my licence to say mass, and then to Mrs. Neville at the Corte dell' Albero. She soon after took me to the Armenian College, where the examinations were just finished. There are eighteen scholars, with two priests over them, in an old grand palace of a ruined family of Pesaro. The _vicario_ and several others from the island were there. We talked much about England. I came to dinner at the Tavola, returned at 4, Then we went to the Island of St. Lazzaro, to see Padre Pasquale and the Archbishop Sutrio Somal (as the name sounds), great friends of Phillipps at Rome in 1831, and of mine, too. When we came back. I went in a gondola to Mrs. Neville, and back to tea.

Tuesday, Sept. 5.--This being the feast of St. Lorenzo Giustiniani, I went out at 6¾ to find the church where his body is laid. He died in the very hotel where we are. The church I went to in a gondola in rain to St. Pietro at Castello--the ancient patriarchal church--and said mass at the high altar, where he lies. I walked back in rain, without umbrella, as I lost mine yesterday. I bought another. At 12, Padre Raffaelle, an Armenian priest, Mrs. Neville's confessor, to whom she introduced me yesterday, called and took me to the patriarch, Cardinal Monico, who received most graciously my propositions for England. I am to call again with the Phillippses on Saturday, and get something more exactly settled about the prayers; we then went across the Great Canal to the Del Redentore, where {319} is a convent of eighty Capuchins. The church is reckoned a _chef d'oeuvre_ of Palladio, built _ex voto_ by the Republic, after a plague. We saw the guardian, who is also provincial; he learned our want, and promised for his own house and ten others of the province. I came back to dinner. A Greek priest whom Phillipps got acquainted with the other day, came to dine with us, and sat till 9. His conversation was very interesting as showing the ideas of the Greeks about the Roman Church, and their doctrines on many points varying from ours. What a terrible evil is that of separation of nearly half of Christendom! The greater reasons to hasten the reunion of England, that we may draw the others.

Friday, Sept. 6.--The two Neville boys came with me to St. Marco, and served my mass, as their mother had desired. After breakfast, I called on Mrs. Neville, who was not up, then went to Palazzo Pasaro, to Padre Raffaelle. He came with me first to the Franciscans; the guardian promised for his house of fifty, and for three or four at some distance from him. Then to the Dominicans, who are fifteen, a new establishment a year old. Then to the Jesuits, who are eight in number, only this summer returned to their old church, which is one of the most remarkable for its ornaments in Venice, white marble inlaid with black. I remembered it well from twenty-six years ago. The superior, Padre Ferrario, is going to Rome to-morrow, and promised to see about my matters there with Cardinal Acton and the general of the Jesuits. I came home in haste, and found Phillipps, and Mrs. Neville and her friends with her, gone to St. Marco, where we followed them to see the treasury--_i.e._, the inestimably rich treasures brought by Doge Dandolo from Constantinople, just before it was taken by the Turks. The chief thing is an antependium and a reredos of massive gold, with splendid pearls and enamels. Mrs. Neville took us to the Convent of the Visitation, where is preserved the heart of St. Francis of Sales, which was brought from France when the Revolution drove off all religious. They could not show this relic; but promised prayers, and to write to other houses. There were there {320} forty nuns. Back to dinner at the _table d'hôte_. After dinner we went all together to see the only large Gothic church in Venice, called St. ---- di Frari, which is the Venetian for Frati; it used to be the Franciscan church, and their house is turned into a public Archivium. Phillipps said they deserved it for having such a palace. The church is a fine one, and has some good morsels; but what is most startling, or rather glaring, is the immense marble monument to Canova--a pyramid, with a heathen procession into it. His heart is here. His right hand in an urn at the Arcadinia. We tried at St. Sitorstro (Silvestro) to assist at the 40 _ore_, but all was over. We came back by a fine star light, and went to St. Marco, where we had ices at Floriano's _café_, and heard military music. Canonico Pio Bighi, and his young companion Don Giovanni Moneti, joined us, _ad cor. sat._ We came home at 9.

Sept. 7th.--Said mass at St. Marco, on the altar where the miraculous picture of Our Lady is, by St. Luke. The Greek priest told us there existed seventy-five of them. I went at 8½ to the Jesuits, to give a letter for Cardinal Acton, about indulgences for prayers for England, to Padre Ferrarrio, the Superior, who sets off to-day for Rome. I found Mrs. Neville and Father Raffaelle talking to him. The latter kindly went around with me to-day again. We went first to the Institute of St. Dorothea, founded lately by Conte Passi and his brother, which we desired to see. The Superioress was out, but another made excellent promises.--15 nuns. Then to St. Lucia, to the Sisters of Charity, and another house dependent on them. In the latter was an Armenian lady who spoke English, having been six years at Hammersmith Convent. The Superioress of the chief house spoke of Gentili with great respect; she knew him when she was at the house at Verona. She promised me for thirteen houses under her authority. Then we went past the Jesuits to a house of Reformed Franciscans (Zoccolanti). St. Michele di Marano. Promised for three houses as large as this, about twenty-six, and many more smaller. This is where Gregory XVI. was educated, made his novitiate, and was Superior. We saw the outside of his room; the key could {321} not be got. We got back at 12½. I went with Phillipps to the Cardinal Patriarch, as appointed before. I gave him the prayer for England which I gave to Padre Ferrario, and he promised to speak with him also. Thence to the Accademia, where for two hours we looked at the pictures and statues. It did not greatly answer me. Thence left our cards on the Duc de Levis, who, with his master the Due de Bordeaux, is at the Albergo Reale. Then dined. Another _maigre_. After I did not go out with them, as I had office to say. At 7½ we had a party to tea--the Greek priest, with Mrs. Neville and three children. They stayed till past 11.

Monday, Sept. 8. Nativity of Blessed Virgin.--I said mass at S. Marco. We went to the high Armenian mass at S. Lazzaro at 10. We were a little late. After it we stayed there with our friends the fathers till vespers and benediction, at 3. And after that, dinner at 4. Mrs. Neville and family were there too. It was an interesting day for seeing and conversing. I saw, in the visitors' book, my name under Lefevre's, written by him July, 1820. We sat in the cloister, with the old Archbishop, &c., till twilight. He made us presents of many handsome books printed there. We came back to S. Marco, and sat to hear the band, &c. On coming home, at 7½, we were in great demand with cards and notes, left by the Duc de Levis, to invite us to the Duc de Bordeaux's (Comte de Chombard) salon at 7. We were all thrown back by Phillipps having no dresses to go in. So we had to keep easy at home.

Sunday, Sept. 9.--Mass at the cathedral (S. Marco). P. Raffaele and the Greek priest came to breakfast. At 10 I had a visit from the Superioress of the Institute of Sta. Dorothea and a companion. At 10½ we went to visit the Duc de Bordeaux, who gave us a quarter of an hour's most affable conversation, spoke with great kindness of his reception in England, and asked after Dr. Wiseman, &c. His confessor, the Abbé Trélouquet, was introduced to us, and came in our gondola to Mrs. Neville, of whom we took leave. Mr. Trélouquet promised to engage the French royal {322} family in prayers for England. He said, the Duc de Bordeaux had spoken of my asking him at Oscott. We went then to S. Tommaso, where I left the Phillippses and went to the banker, Holme, who is Armenian consul. Then back to S. Tommaso, where I found them looking at an extraordinary collection of relics made by a priest, who devoted himself to the work when all things were in confusion in the revolution. He gave the collection to the church, on condition of their being open to the public for veneration. The chief relic is some of the blood of Our Lord, in a beautiful gold or gilt reliquary. I found there Monsignor Arfi, the Pope's Caudatario, and invited for England. I then went to Padre Raffaele, at the college, and went with him to see the two brothers, priests Cavanis, founders of an excellent institute of _Scuole di Carità_. They are in a poor house, with a few companions; one of them complained that no one helped them; but they are like their patron S. Joseph Calasanctius, losing ground in old age, but with hope of better things. P. Raffaele, who has indeed been an angel to me in Venice, came with me to the inn where they were at dinner. At 4 we left Venice, with pleasant remembrances. We crossed the lagune in a procession of boats, and got into the railway carriage, which took us to Padua about 7. At the Stella d'Oro I went out to try to find the Bishop; but he was not in town.

Tuesday, Sept, 10.--I went to St. Antony's church at 7½ to say mass. Before going I met Dr. Roskell, of Manchester, just come with a Manchester party on a rapid tour. I could not have the altar of St. Antony, which seems always occupied. I spoke to the Superior of the house of Conventual Franciscans attached to the church, 50 in number, who promised to recommend my cause. I came back in a little carriage with Phillipps. We started at 9 for Verona, dined at Vicenza; then I took a carriage and called on the Bishop, Monsignor Capellari, a good old man, who received me graciously. We stopped in going out of Vicenza to see Palladio's Olympic Theatre, built to act the OEdipus Tyrannus in 1585. This pretends to nothing but paganism. We reached Verona at 7. I went out to see {323} the Bishop, who was quite gracious; he begins his retreat with his clergy to-morrow, and promised to begin then and recommend England. I then called at Conte Persico's, who is in town, but was just gone to the theatre. Home, and to bed at 9½.

Wednesday, Sept. 11.--Up soon after 5, and at 7 said mass in St. Anastasius, a large church close to the hotel. Soon after Conte Persico came to return my visit, and sat a good while with me, then with the Phillippses, to whom I introduced him. He is grown very old, being now 67. He said he was married two years after I had seen him before, and was now by accident in town with his wife. I thought him very like his old father. At 10 we went in a carriage to see the tombs of the Scaligeri, formerly tyrants of Verona, fine Gothic structure; then the Amphitheatre, and the church of St. Zenone, where I saw the image of the saint again which I before laughed at, as a thing so to be treated, in 1820. I then called at Conte Persico's, and saw his lady. At 12½ we set off for Dezenzano, a beautiful spot at the town end of the Lake di Garda. We arrived at 6, and had a pleasant evening in a little room of the Albergo Imperiale, looking over the lake. I wrote to Mrs. Neville and Abbé de Baudry.

Thursday, Sept. 12.--There was rain in the night, leaving us a fine day without dust. I said mass at 6½ in the parish church. We went to dine at the Duc Torri, at Brescia. I went to see the Bishop, who received me very courteously. There I met a Philippine lay-brother, who introduced me to the church of his order, Sta. Maria della Pace, then to five or six of the fathers sitting together. I had a fine opportunity of recommending England. They are the only religious house in Brescia (of men at least). After dinner at 3 we set off for Bergamo, when we came to Albergo Reale at 9 o'clock. I got up to my knees in a stream near the road at the wet stage, but hope no harm from it.

Friday, Sept. 13.--Anniversary of my first coming abroad, 1819. I got up soon after 5, said mass in a church opposite the inn, breakfasted at a café, then walked up the beautiful road to the high town called the _Città_, where our {324} inn was is the borga. Between them there are about 36,000. In the _Città_ I met a priest, by name Giuseppe Caffi, belonging to the collegiate church, who, when I asked him for Count Papi, volunteered to be my guide altogether. He showed me the cathedral, his own church, Sta. Maria, and a little convent church, Church of the Benedictine Nuns, beautifully gilt. He also went with me to the Bishop, who gave me one of the best receptions. By the same good hap as at Verona, the priests were in retreat. He introduced me to the Abbate Vittadini, conductor of the retreat, who promised to speak of England to the clergy. He was already full of zeal for it; he knew a good deal of the state of things with us. When I wrote my name, he knew it well, and it had a good effect. I went with Abbé Caffi to the palace of Count Papi; all were away. He came with us to the hotel, and soon we started for Milan. We arrived at 3, and found rooms in the best hotel (de la Ville). _Tables d'hôte_ at 5. I said office, and just got time to look in the cathedral before dinner, and again after we all went. It was beyond my recollections of old. I admired the ceiling, which seemed all beautiful openwork; I did not remember this. It seemed to be only painted so. How I remember Lord Kinnaird taking my mother to it. We tried two other churches to find Benediction in vain. Then I went with Phillipps to a bookseller's.

Saturday, Sept. 14.--Up at 5½. I went to say mass at the cathedral, and finding that the Roman rite is not allowed in the church alone, I was in the happy necessity of celebrating in the chapel of St. Charles, in the crypt, which is almost reserved for strangers. I waited over two masses. After breakfast we had a visit from Count Mellerio, Rosinini's great friend. Phillipps and I went with him to his palace, and saw Abbate Polidori, who lives there. Mrs. Ambrose came with the carriage to pick us up, and I went to the Church of St. Celso, and to the great hospital fitted up for 3,000 patients; then to vespers at the Duomo, and at 3½ to dine with Count Mellerio. I sat near Polidori. Before we parted he and Signer Mercati seemed gained for England. At 6½ we went to a Benediction at the Duomo, only of relics {325} of the Passion, and not very solemn. This was by occasion of the Feast of the Exaltation of the Cross to-day. I then went to the Archbishop's palace to find the Grand Vicar, to get leave for confessions to-morrow, and without expecting it saw the Cardinal himself instead. As Count Mellerio was to prepare my way to-morrow, I did not speak of England. When I got home I found Mellerio at the inn, bringing a permission from the Grand Vicar. To bed after 10. I have got unwell to-day in the inside,--between yesterday's _maigre_ and the fruit, I suppose.

Sunday, Sept. 15.--We went together this morning to the old basilica of St. Ambrose, where I said mass at the saint's tomb, in the crypt. The Phillippses received communion. Then we saw the splendid covering of the altar above, in the church. It is exposed only on three days at mass--St. Ambrose, SS. Gervase and Protase, and Corpus Christi. SS. Gervase and Protase's relics are there, with St. Ambrose's. This altar cost to a bishop who gave it, 80,000 sequins of gold, about the year 1000. I spoke to the Directeur du Séminaire de Chamberry, who was there, and he promised to speak of England. We went home to breakfast at 10½. Assisted at high mass in the Duomo again; not so solemn as yesterday. The procession of the Blessed Sacrament before it did not please me much. After high mass I went to call on the Cardinal again. I was not so much disappointed as in the case of the Bishop of _Brixen_, for I had heard nothing promising about this interview as in the other cases; but I felt as one defeated when I went away. I went to the Piazza del Castello to see the Contessa del Verme and her sister, English people, converts to whom Abbate Vittadini, at Bergamo, recommended me. Her sister, Miss Mary Webster, is just about entering the order of the Visitation here. The Count came in just when I was gone out, and followed me to S. Alessandro, of the Barnabites, which he had heard me ask for as I left his house. I brought him to see Phillipps. We dined at 3½, and at 4½ went to the Arena, or Amphitheatre, where there was a grand _spettacolo nautico e pirotecnico._ The arena was full of water, and we had five races of boats, three of men, one of {326} women, and one of boys rowing; then a procession of two great illuminated galleys filled with musicians; then what struck me most, as most new to me, the ascent of fifty fine balloons; then of one very large one; then a splendid display of fireworks, ending as often with an illuminated palace, with an inscription _alle scienze, alle letters, alle arti_, as the spectacle was in honour of the Sixth Italian Scientific Congress, now being held here. We got home at ¼ to 9; I almost well again.

Monday, September 16.--I said mass at St. Fidele, formerly one of the three Jesuit churches. At 8 we set off in a carriage to see the Certosa of Pavia. We got to it at 10½, and were two hours examining its beautiful details. Women are now forbidden entrance into the choir, and so Mrs. Ambrose had to stay in the body of the church, while we, with other people who had come to see it, saw the rich high altar and many of the finest things. There are not many precious stones, like rubies, emeralds, &c., but a profusion of altar-fronts of Pietra-dura, beautiful _alto relievos_ in marble, and many fine pictures. The convent is but lately reinhabited. Count Mellerio was the means of replacing monks there. They are all French. We saw the Prior, who knew Michael MacMahon. He promised to recommend England not only here, but by letter in other houses. We dined at an inn half a mile from the church, called Albergo della Certosa, and came back to Milan by 5. I got off near the Contrada S. Maria Falconeria, to call at a convent of Sisters of Charity of the same order as those of Sta. Lucia, at Venice. I saw the Superioress. Then I went to the Count del Verme's palace. La Contessa was confined this morning. I saw Miss Webster, who spoke about two English girls whom they are instructing, wishing me to receive the confession of one who cannot speak Italian. I went out with the priest who instructs them, Don Gaetano Fumagalli, to see them. We first went to the convent of the Salesiani, 54 nuns (visitation), into which Miss Webster is about to enter, and though the time was past, we saw the mistress of novices through the grate, who was very gracious about England. Then we went to a high story in a house where these girls lodge, paid {327} for by the Cardinal. After coming home I went, on an invitation obtained by the Conte del Verme, to a grand assembly and concert at the Accademia, or the _Nobil Società_. The gayest rooms I have seen a long time. I came home soon after ten, for I knew nobody there, and was almost the only priest I saw; certainly the only one in a cassock.

Tuesday, September 17.--Mass at St. Fidele. At 8 Count Mellerio came, and we started for his villa at Gernetto, beyond Monza. He took Mrs. A. and Amb., and I and a boy went in our carriage, with four vetturino horses. We stopped at Monza to see the glorious relic of the Iron Crown given by the Empress Helena to Constantine, in which is inserted, as a ring of iron within a larger ring of gold, one of the nails of Our Lord's crucifixion beat out into that form. It has crowned from thirty to forty kings of Italy. Among them, Napoleon last but one. Other grand relics of the Passion are with it, two thorns, and a piece of the sponge. Other relics are in the sacristy. This is kept over an altar within rich doors. The Canonico, who was with us in the church, promised to recommend England. We went on to the palace of the Archduke, surrounded by a park fifteen miles round, dressed like an English park, a noble palace. Then on to Gernetto, where we were for two or three hours before dinner walking gaily with the Count round his beautiful grounds. The villa is very handsome. Two priests of the neighbourhood dined with us at 3. One told me that Count Mellerio is one of the richest, or rather the richest nobleman in Milan,--about £15,000 a year of our money. He is alone, having lost his wife and four children. He came back with us to our hotel, where I found Count del Verme to tell me that the confession of the girls was put off. They have been left here by their mother. Their parents, ---- and Ann Carraway, live at Newcastle-under-Lyne. Their grandfather and mother, James and Mary Freakley, at Cheapside, Handley. I went with the Count to the assembly of the learned men who are now met in Milan,--not so smart as yesterday, but very numerous. Then to a café, to read news about the effects of O'Connell's liberation.

{328}

Wednesday, September 18.--I went with Phillippses to the Duomo to say mass for them at St. Charles's tomb, but I found it occupied, and so I went to San Fidele again, came back to breakfast, and saw Conte Mellerio, who had called. Then went with them to the Brera, where I went quickly through the gallery, and left them, taking the carriage to go to the hospital of the Fate-bene Fratelli, which is a fine establishment for 100 sick. The Vicario, whom I saw, promised to recommend England to the Provincial, who is here, and through him to the thirty brothers here, and five houses in Lombardy--_vento_. Then I went to the bank. Dined at 1, and at 2 we started with a Swiss _voiturier_, whom we had engaged to take us to Geneva. We passed the beautiful triumphal arch, L'Arco della Pace, reckoned the finest in the world, ancient and modern. We got to sleep at a nice inn, in a place called Casiua buon Jesu. I wrote a letter to Dr. Wiseman.

Thursday, September 19. San Januarius.--I said mass at the little oratory of the village. There is mass here only on Sundays generally, but the bell rung three times for my mass, and we had a full chapel. This chapel not very neat; it seemed used for a school-room. We started at ½ past 7, and reached Avona at 12 to dine. How I was struck with the remembrance of the last time in this place with my father and mother, after coming in a boat with Dr. Wilson from Bavino. The inn is a fine new house since then. We saw a steamboat pass, which plies daily the whole length of the lake. I missed going to St. Charles's statue and the seminary near it, belonging to the diocese of Novara, where I should have liked to go to preach England. After dinner we started and went round to Strass, where we stopped and went up the mountain's side to see Rosmini's Novitiate, which overlooks the village. It is a large house, without beauty or character, unhappily. We knew we should not find Rosinini, who is at Roveredo. We saw Segnini and two other priests, Paoli and Gagliardi. They have thirty novices. The situation is beautiful. The ground belonged before to Madame Bolognaro, who has a large house in the town, where, while we were at the convent, the Bishop of {329} Novara came. I would not have failed to ask an audience had I been alone, but I made the priests promise to speak to him of England. We took a boat to go to the Isola Bella, to see the palace and gardens on our way to Bavino, the carriage going on there by itself. It was almost dark when we got there, and we could only see the suite of grand rooms and pictures, and the chapel with the old family tombs brought from Milan, by candlelight. _Mem_. A room of rockwork underneath the chief suite, where Bonaparte dined, and the bedroom he slept in. The whole of this grandeur is made worse than worthless by the indecent statues and pictures which are all about the place. We got to Bavino at 8; a nice new inn.

Friday, Sept. 20.--Ember Day, but no fast for me! I got to say mass at 4½, and we started at 6 to ascend the Simplon. The day was beautiful. We got to Domodossola at 11. We went up the beautiful road to the Monte Calvario, of which Gentili has made me think so much, first having taken a look at their college in the town, where there are 19 boarders and more than 200 out-students. At the Calvary two priests received us kindly. Along the road to it are chapels with the stations represented in groups of figures as large as life, well executed; only two or three are complete. The situation here again is admirable. The house and church not remarkable. I was well received for England. Coming down, which I did after the rest, I visited a pretty Capuchin convent, half-way up, of fifteen friars, and had a good reception (promise to write to the other houses). After dinner at 2 we set off for Simplon, which we reached after 8. The _voiturier_ (coachman), to spare his horses, put us on post-horses at his own expense. The road on the Piedmontese side is sadly dilapidated. It was broken down (by water, as it seems) six years ago, and the King of Sardinia will not have his part repaired, to make people go by Mount Cenis and Turin. Put up at the Simplon Inn.

Saturday, Sept. 21. St. Matthew.--I said mass at 7, spoke to the curé after, who promised for England. We started at 8; we still had two hours going up the hill. {330} About the summit is the Hospice de St. Bernard, begun by Bonaparte. I remember it in an unfinished state. It now contains four or five priests, and some brothers. We stopped and saw the Prior, M. Barras, who promised kindly to recommend England to the mother house. Phillipps bought a puppy of the famous breed, three months old, who was added to our company in the carriage. We reached Brigy between 12 and 1. I went out before dinner, and saw the Superior of the Jesuits' College here, who is a nice old man, and received us very kindly. I hurried away quickly, thinking to return again after dinner, but the dinner was long after time, and we had at once to set off for Turtinan, which we reached at 6½. We went out before tea to see a waterfall: it was a dark, wet walk, for rain was beginning.

Sunday, Sept. 22.--I said mass at 5. Soon after 6 we set off for Sion. Arrived at 10, and found a grand military pontifical high mass begun in the cathedral. I never heard drums and cannon and the word of command in a mass before. The music was not military, but noisy figured. The occasion of the solemn mass was the feast of St. Maurice, patron of the Valais. After mass the Bishop walked with a great procession about the town, with a feretrum, with relics of St. Maurice. The chief part are at the town of the name, which we are to pass to-morrow. The procession had an excellent effect. I went then to the Jesuits' College, and spoke to the Rector, who told me the first I had heard of the attempt at revolution in the month of May here, which was defeated in a gallant style by the inhabitants of the Valais arming to the number of 10,000, from a population of 70,000, under an old French officer, _i.e._, a Swiss, trained in the French army, who repelled the party of the Jeune Suisse, who otherwise would have overturned religious order, and perhaps, as he said, have massacred all the religious. Young Bodenham was in their house when the danger threatened. The Rector was very kind, but did not promise much. I went then to dine at a _table d'hôte_, but soon got off, and went to the Bishop lately consecrated, who came from table to speak with me. He was educated at the Collegio Germanico; knew Baldacconi and Father Daniel. {331} He promised his help. I then went to a Capuchin convent outside the town. The guardian, a young man, was rather cold, but said meanwhile that he always prayed for England, as ordered in the Confrérie de l'Immaculé Coeur. Then to a convent of Ursulines, close to the Bishop's; eleven nuns (well received); then in a hurry to an hospital outside the town on the other side, with eight nuns. The director gave me one of my most favourable receptions, and promised that the nuns should change their day of communion from Friday to Thursday to meet my wishes. We set off at 2 for Martigny, which we reached at 5½. It has a different look from 1819, the year after the inundation. I called on the curé, who is one of the monks of Grand St. Bernard, with the white linen scapular to represent the surplice, which they always wear as canons regular of St. Augustine, to which they belong. He was very good about England. From thence, I went to an hospital kept by six French nuns, to receive poor travellers, female St. Bernardites. The Superioress was very agreeable and zealous. They are going directly to France to make their retreat with 600 other nuns, assembled under the Bishop of Belley. She promised to get him to recommend it to them all. I came back to tea after a happy, successful day (Hôtel de la Cigne). Alpine strawberries at tea.

Monday, September 23.--I said mass at 6. Came away, fearing it would be too late, without saying farewell to the Prior, which was mortifying, as there was time enough. We went to dine at St. Gingolph, beautifully placed on the bank of the Lake of Geneva. On the way we stopped at St. Maurice, where we saw in the church the rich shrine of St. Maurice, containing his body, and several others; two of the sons of Sigismund, King of Burgundy, who did penance here, after putting them to death. In the abbey, which is of the Canons Regular of St. Augustine, I saw the superior, who is a bishop _in partibus_; he spoke very kindly about England. I also met a nun there of a convent of Sisters of Charity, who promised for Thursdays at St. Gingolph. I went to the curé, where the Vicar introduced me to several priests dining with him, who became greatly interested, and {332} promised to speak to the Bishop of Annecy, and to their _confrères_ at Thonon, where we came to sleep. I called on the curé, who promised, but I could not quite satisfy myself about him; but was quite satisfied with the brothers of the Christian Doctrine; there are eight. The Superior promised well, and sent two brothers home with me to the inn. The names of the priests at St. Gingolph were:--M. Veuillet, Curé de Désingy; M. Maitre, Curé de Novel; M. La Croix, Vicaire de Chilly; and M. Pollien, Vicaire de St. Gingolph. The first most interesting: the last extremely tall.

Tuesday, Sept. 24. B.M.V. di Mercede.--At 5½ I went to the Convent of the Visitation, where there are thirty-four nuns, who have recovered their house after the Revolution. The Superioress received me most kindly, and promised all. I then went to the Sisters of Charity, who have two houses--a _pensionnat_ and an hospital. The Superioress was not up. I left my card with a lay sister. I then went and said mass at the parish church. The Phillippses went to communion. It was at the altar of St. Francis of Sales, in this, the first church which he (or any other one) regained from the Calvinists--St. Hippolyte. I offered the mass for the recovery of our dear cathedrals. The curé spoke to me again, and much more zealously promised all for Thonon, M. De la Millière. We ought to have gone to the Château d'Allinges, where St. Francis lodged when he began the holy work. The chapel has been wonderfully preserved, and lately reopened, Sept. 14, 1836. On our way to Geneva, where we arrived at 12½, we read some of the account of his mission. We came to the Hotel de Bergues, a new grand house in a new part of the town, built out on the lake about 1834. I took a carriage to Plainpalais, and brought back my good friend l'Abbé de Baudry. I dined after at the _table d'hôte_. He is a tall, venerable old man, dressed in his cassock, as all the priests are. His account of things here was better than I thought. We set off at 3½, and could not get farther than Nyon, where Phillipps and I went to see the curé and his church, all new. There was no mission here till 1831. We interested him for England, I hope. The hotel is de la Couronne. In {333} every room, as at Geneva, is a New Testament of the Geneva Bible Society.

Wednesday, Sept. 25.--I went at 5 to say mass at the new church; the curé, M. Rossiaud, got up to serve it, and came with me to see us off. We went up the Jura; but the grand view of Mont Blanc was clouded, so we have but once seen it dimly. Yesterday evening we had a troublesome sorting of all our baggage at Les Rousses. We dined at St. Laurent. I went to the curé, M. Gottez, who spoke painfully of the state of France (I think too much so), but brightened up when we were about England. We went on to Champagnole, at the Hôtel de la Poste, a nice little inn. Phillipps and I went to the church; and I called and saw the curé, like Dr. Rock in looks. He accepted my appeal agreeably.

Thursday, Sept. 26.--I got to say mass at the parish church, at 5. The curé, M. Patit, and the vicaire, M. Bouvet, were both up, and the latter walked back with me to the inn, la Poste. We started at 6½; dined at 1 at l'Hôtel de France, at Dole: we got there at 12. I went out and saw a father at the Jesuits', who received me very agreeably; and then a nun at the Visitation Convent. The Jesuit promised for all the convents himself. The Prince and Princess Doria were come to the inn, on their way to Italy. When we came back, I went to see them after our dinner. We went on through Auxonne, where Phillipps and I went to see the church,--_diligence_ to Dijon. Arrived at the Hôtel de la Cloche at 7½. I went out to see the Bishop, but he was out. I called at the Séminaire, and saw the Superior and others, who were very kind, and spoke of Brother Luke asking them; then back to supper; after which I went again to the évêché, and waited in the porter's lodge, talking to a nice old man of eighty about the Revolution, &c., till the Bishop came in. He, Monseigneur Rivet, promised his help very graciously. I got home at 10, having also tried in vain to get at the sacristan for mass tomorrow.

Friday, Sept. 27.--I went out at ten minutes to 4, to try once more the sacristan's bell, but no answer, and so I had {334} to come back and give up mass, as we were to start at 5. We took provisions in the carriage, and we had no mind to stop all day, till at 7½ we reached St. Florentin, a town of 2,400 people, in the diocese of Sens. The weather was beautiful, and we admired the high cultivation and seeming prosperity of the country. We passed a fine château at Aucy le Franc, of the Duce or Marquis de Clermont-Tonnerre. At St. Florentin I went out and saw the curé and the sacristan, to provide better for mass to-morrow than today. Hôtel de la Poste.

Saturday, Sept. 28.--Got up about 3. At a quarter to 4 I went to the sacristan, and with him to the church, and said mass; a pretty little Gothic church. We set off at a quarter to 5, with provisions again, for Paris, which we entered about 11 at night. We stopped at Sens to see the cathedral. I first went to the archévêché, and was most graciously received by the Archbishop, Monseigneur Mellon Jolly, a young man translated here from Séez last March. He said he had introduced prayers for England at Séez, and would begin again now. He took me into the cathedral, and left me to see the trésor, where the Phillippses already were. The most precious relic was of the true cross, as the sacristan said, the largest in the world; but he could not know of Rome and Jerusalem. It was given by Charlemagne. There are two pieces, placed in a cross under crystal; I should say the upright piece of nine or ten inches, the transverse of four or five, well polished. What was perhaps most interesting to us was the case containing St. Thomas of Canterbury's chasuble, alb with apparel, stole, &c., from which the late Archbishop separated what he gave to Dr. Wiseman. There is also an arm of St. Lupus, a case of St. Gregory's relics, from which some have been begged for Rome. We stopped again at Fontainebleau, and took a rapid view of the palace. The servant who led said it was the finest in the world. I think he must be partial, as the sacristan this morning about the relic of the cross. Louis-Philippe has done a good deal here; spent 800,000 fr. in ornamenting one room. I was much pleased with the gallery with pictures of the history of France. This is the {335} finest matter for a palace. There was much very indecent. After this it began to rain till we got to Paris. We got rooms at the Hôtel de l'Europe, just opposite the gardens of the Tuileries. Nothing could be better.

Sunday, Sept. 29.--I went at 7½ to say mass at the Madeleine, that glorious church for its style. Then home to breakfast, and then, with the rest, to high mass at Notre-Dame; one of the grandest plain chant masses I ever was at. There I met Mr. Moore, of Birmingham; and I went with him after, in his hackney-coach, on a few errands, and at last to the English convent, from whence he takes one of the Misses Bingham to the convent at Handsworth. Then I went again to Notre-Dame, and very much to my loss: I came too late for vespers. After, I went to St. Jacques, but did not find the Curé de Noirlieu, nor his vicaire. I came back by the omnibus to dine at the _restaurant_, and directly we went to Notre-Dame des Victoires, where we assisted at the service, from 7 to 20 minutes to 10. It was wonderful to see the attention of the people all this time. The old curé, after the sermon by another priest, gave the _annonces_ in an interesting way. We heard him recommend England. I went in to ask him.

Monday, Sept. 30.--I said mass at the Madeleine. After breakfast, I went to Mr. Blount, the banker, who told me that Heneage was to be in Paris on Thursday, the very day we go away. Then to the post, and find no letters; then by omnibus to St. Sulpice (where the retreat of the clergy begins to-day), to see the Archbishop. I was introduced to him in a room, where he was among several priests. I got on but poorly. He was gracious, but made little of the affair. The secretary of Mgr. Quelin was there. He testified to his recommending the thing before, but no effect followed. This was damping enough, though I knew something to the contrary. The Archbishop sent me to M. Vollemaux (Mr. Hand's friend), who conducts the retreat, and he promised to recommend England this evening. So the point is gained; though, judging from the tone in which he spoke of England, it is not so promising a prospect as some. But among 600 priests some will be inspired, let {336} him speak as he may. I then went to the rue de Chaillot, to seek Captain Cooke, to know about John Beaumont. Had to come back empty, and stopped at home, not very well, till 5½, when Phillippses came in from St. Denis to dinner. After dinner Mr. Gordon, of the _Univers_, came to tea, and stopped till 10 nearly.

Tuesday, Oct. 1.--I went to say mass at Notre-Dame des Victoires, in les Petits Pères, at 8½. I breakfasted near them, and had a talk with Abbé Desgenettes. Then went to breakfast _à la fourchette_, at 11, with M. Noirlieu, Curé of St. Jacques, and his vicaire, Bourjéant. The latter forced me, against my will, to have some papers with an image and a prayer for England printed. It is the like case with Belgium. I hope it may be well, as it certainly was not my will, and so the denial of my will may be a blessing. We then went to call on the nuncio, Mgr. Fornari; and then to the engravers for this said work. Mgr. Fornari is grown very stout and unwieldy, but was very kind and pleasing; he encouraged my pursuit and this printing. We went home again to St. Jacques to _rédiger_ the prayers, when again my friend would have his way against my mind in a point or two. I came thence to the Bank, M. Blount's, then home, and dined alone; then went to call on Captain Cooke, to ask about John Beaumont, who, it seems, does not come to Paris at all; then home, where I found the Phillippses going out to a spectacle, and so I had to go off and try to stop at l'Abbé Desgenettes', who was to come to see him, but he was already from home, and so I came back and received his visit, when I pressed him for England, and he took it well.

Wednesday, Oct. 2.--By desire of M. Gallard, Vicaire of the Madeleine, expressed by M. Bourgoiner, I said mass there. After breakfast, I called on Mrs. Heneage and her daughter, 17, rue St. Florentin; then took omnibus to St. Denis, where I looked through the church below ground and above. It is greatly altered since 1838--wonderful work of painting and stained glass, yet a very little is done of what has to be done. I came back by omnibus to Porte St. Martin; then walked home at 6. I dined with Captain Cooke--a family dinner, purely English, as he is himself. {337} I liked his conversation much, blunt and plain as it is. He talked of his twenty years' service--Egypt--America. I came home at 8 to meet MM. Noirlieu and Bourgoigne and Gordon, who came to tea and made interesting company till 11, I think.

Thursday, Oct. 3.--Said mass at St. Roch; after, I went to the Jesuits, Rue des Postes, and saw the Provincial, M. Boulanger; then to the Sisters of Charity, Rue de Bac; the Sacré Coeur, where Mad. de Gramont gave me a most amiable reception; the Lazarists, Rue de Sevres; then I tried to see one of the Society of St. Vincent de Paul, and went with a zealous young clerk from their office, 37, Rue de Seine, St. Germain, to seek an _avocat_ at the Palais de Justice. I was handing about the engravings, which were ordered on Tuesday, and which are well received. The sister, deputed to see me at the Sisters of Charity, alone, was cold. She was the same as six years ago, when she was very gracious. I came home to dine at 1 alone; at 2 I went to see Heneage, just arrived at his father and mother's from Dieppe. I sat an hour very happily with him, and came home at the time appointed to go away, but it was deferred till to-morrow. So I went to the chief house of the Ecoles Chrétiennes, about 126, Rue du Faubourg St. Martin. The Superior-General was very favourable, and promised to recommend England to his community of 300, and to the 400 houses of his order. I then took omnibus to the Rue de Bac, and had an interesting conversation with Abbé Dubois, now eighty years old. Ever since 1838, he prays for England every day in the mass. He is in retreat. He receives a pension of £100 a year from England. I went again and had tea with him, and so finished the day happily.

Friday, Oct. 4.--Mass at St. Roch. We started for Boulogne at 9½. We stopped on the way to see the Church of St. Vincent de Paul, building in most splendid style, in form of a basilica inside, but with a portico without. Then I stopped at St. Denis, and walked round it again; saw in addition the winter choir most richly adorned. _Mem._--The twelve Apostles holding the consecration crosses round the walls. We went on to dine at Beauvais. We went, when {338} it was growing dark, to take a look at the cathedral. The choir alone complete--the finest in the world. We said that the French, with their present zeal and prosperity, would finish this cathedral if the peace lasts ten more years. I left them in the church, and went to see the Bishop. He was at dinner, but came out and introduced me to the party, namely, the directors of the Seminary (among them my acquaintance, M. Bareau), and some Jesuits. He was most kind and favourable, and promised before them all that he would say mass for England once a week for a year. The others all sympathised. After this beautiful incident, I came home, and we dined at the Écu de France. We afterwards drove on to Grandvilliers; arrived at 11. The King of the French dined there yesterday; the landlady was in raptures at it; there was the Queen, and in all twenty-six, at table.

Saturday, Oct. 5.--As they failed to awake me, I missed saying mass. We set off at 6½, and went, almost without a stop, dining in the carriage (135 kilometres, about 85 miles), to Boulogne, where we stopped at the Hôtel des Bains. I went directly to see the Grand Doyen, who was very kind. Returning, I found Mr. Digby with them. Louis-Philippe's birthday--71 years old.

Sunday, October 6.--I said mass at 8½; got back to breakfast, and then we went together to the high mass, sung by Dr. Walsh, Bishop of Halifax. He had no mitre. After this, Mrs. Canning met me in the sacristy, and we went to her house, No. 5, Rue de Doyen. At 2 we walked to the Haute Ville, where we visited the Visitation Nuns in their grand new house, twenty-seven in number, and the Ursulines, fifty-two in number; then to M. Haffreingue. At 6 I went to dine with the Digbys; saw Mrs. Digby for the first time. The Phillippses were there, and four or five more. I walked back with the Doyen in heavy rain at 10, and entered my lodgings with L'Abbé Daniel, 73, Grande Rue.

Monday, October 7.--I went with Mrs. Canning to the Visitation Convent, and said the community mass at 9. After it we breakfasted in the parlour at 11. M. Haffreingue came in with the Phillippses, who had breakfasted {339} with him, and the Superioress, an English lady of the name of Muller, and other nuns, showed us round the house, which is most stately and beautiful, though it would have been wonderfully better had the money been spent on Gothic work. Mrs. Canning and I left at 12½, and called on Mr. Errington. We came down to dine at 2. The Doyen and M. Daniel came. The Bishop also came to luncheon at 8. I went up to the Haute Ville, and first called on M. Gillies, a Scotch gentleman, converted last year; then went to Digby's for the evening. Besides Phillippses, &c., I saw Nicholas Ball. Came back at 10½.

Tuesday, October 8.--Said mass at 7½; then went to breakfast with Mrs. Canning. About 11 we set off for the Haute Ville, and went once more to the Visitation Convent, where we were allowed to see the whole community through their grate for three quarters of an hour, that I might do my best to recommend England, which I tried to do. Then I visited M. Gillies, and got down to dinner at 2¼. M. Le Cointe, M. Le Roy, and M. Daniel, dined with us. After dinner we went out and visited, first, the Soeurs Grises, an austere convent of poor nuns, who teach school. They have 900 girls under care. The Superioress promised for all; if she fulfils it, it is a fine gain. Then to the Ecoles Chrétiennes. They are seventeen brothers, teaching 1,100 boys in different schools. They were very encouraging; promised for themselves and the boys. After an hour's office and tea, I went to the Haute Ville to see Phillipps and his party at Digby's for the last time, as they go to-morrow. Met Mr. W. Jones and wife, and others. Then at 9 I went to visit Judge Ball at the Hôtel de Londres. The Bishop and others were there. The family was Mr. Ball, Nicholas, and Alexander, and a daughter.

Wednesday, October 9.--I said mass at the Ursulines at 7½, first addressing them on England for a quarter of an hour. Then breakfasted, during which six English nuns were in attendance, and Miss Swift. Then my cousin and I walked to the Annonciades, when we could not see the Superioress; then to the Dames de Notre-Dame du bon Secours (_gardes malades_, seventeen nuns). Then in the Basse Ville {340} to the Hospitalieres (thirteen nuns); these promised well. Then I went home to office till dinner at 2. Mrs. Canning and M. Tallier, Curé de Nemfchatel, who takes care of them, came over to meet me. At 4 M. Thillay came. These two promised to do all they could. At 5 Mrs. C. and I walked to the steamboat office, post-office, &c. Came back to office and tea. Then I went up to change my quarters, and pass some days at the college with M. Haffreingue. I first called and saw Mrs. Gillies. I sat some time with M. Haffreingue, and to bed at 10.

Thursday, October 10.--Said mass at ¼ to 8. At 10 Dr. Walsh came up and sung mass _de Spiritu Sancto_, for the opening of studies. The boys came back yesterday. I assisted him as Assistant Deacon. At 1½ we dined. The Bishop, M. O'Reilly, and a M. Cardham, a London convert, were all the strangers. The rest were the professors of the house. After dinner we had toasts, cheers, and speeches, on England, Mr. O'Reilly leading it. At 10, I went and saw Abbate Melia at Mrs. Errington's. He is going to replace Baldacconi in London. Then to Mrs. Canning's to tea. Returned for night prayers at 7½. Supper comes after. I talked to M. Haffreingue about architecture.

Friday, October 11.--I said mass at 7½ in the chapel of Notre-Dame de Boulogne; breakfasted with M. Haffreingue. At 10 I called on Digby, then Mrs. Canning, and Mrs. Gillies. I dined in the Infirmary, to eat meat with M. Grettan, the English teacher, and little Rosamel, grandson of a great admiral. M. Haffreingue and I took a walk, and went through the crypt of the cathedral. Night prayers and supper in the refectory at 7½. After it, M. Haffreingue and I went to call on Mrs. Muller and Digby.

Saturday, October 12.--Said mass in the Chapelle de Notre-Dame. Miss Muller breakfasted with us. She is the great support of M. Haffreingue's great work of building the cathedral, having begged for it for years past. I asked her to have prayers made for England, as M. Haffreingue announces the cathedral to be undertaken mainly for that enterprise. She promised to interest the poor. I thought of my sermon, and did other things till near 12. When I {341} went out, called on Mr. Stewart, a Scotch pastrycook, lately converted and received by Sisk. At 1, I dined (_gras_) with Mrs. Canning. After, called on Lady Burke and her two daughters, near the Porte. Came back after; walked an hour in the Grande Salle with Haffreingue, talking over projects for England and France.

Sunday, October 13.--Got up after 7, and sung high mass in the chapel at 9. After it I went to Mrs. Canning's till dinner time, when I returned and dined in the refectory. The afternoon was mostly preparing my sermon, which I preached on the conversion of England at the _salut_ at 7. The boys clapped their hands to my surprise when I entered the refectory to supper; in token of acceptance, I hope. I got on better than I could have thought, and was not a bit tired. After supper I went with M. Haffreingue and M. Le Roy; a farewell visit to Digby. It blows hard, and I fear it will be a bad passage to-morrow, or none at all.

Monday, October 14.--The Abbate Melia, Dr. Baldacconi's intended successor, came to sing songs, and breakfast at the college, and went down with me to the port. Mr. Bodenham came with us, too. We waited from 9 till 10.20 before they set off. They seemed to fear the wind. When we got out it was a most stormy passage to Folkestone, of three hours. I stood up all the way, holding on, talking with M. Crawley, of the Hotel, Albemarle Street, except we were nearly sick. We swung through the narrow walk of Folkestone Harbour, and were at once smooth, and soon on England's soil. It was a long work passing the Custom House, but we got off by a train at 3.49. I set Mr. Melia down at Pagliano's, where we found Dr. Walsh (of Halifax), and had tea. Sisk and Mgr. Eyre came in by good fortune, and I went with them home to their quarters at the Chelsea chapel-house.

Tuesday, October 15.--Said mass at 8½. Then went to try Dr. Chambers, who is out of town. Then to Spence House, and saw Appleyard. By his advice, I determined to go to Windsor to-day, the Queen being just now away. I called on Father Lithgoe, and attended a meeting of ladies at Sisk's, then off by the Great Western Railway to Slough, {342} and so to Windsor. I saw Caroline at Lady Grant's, where she lodges, close to the Castle, where I dined at 8, first having seen Sarah at the Castle, and the Prince of Wales, with whom she was playing. He is a weakly-looking child of four, but noble and clever looking. He behaved prettily to us all in going off to bed.

Wednesday, October 16.--After sleeping at the Castle Inn, I walked to the Catholic chapel at Chrom, attended last Sunday by Louis-Philippe, who charmed them all. I said mass, and then Mr. Wilson took me in a gig a mile on to call on Mr. Riley, at Forest Hill. He was out. I thence called to Windsor, and was with Sarah from 12 to 1½, while the children were asleep. Then went down to Eton, called on Mr. Coleridge, then walked about the well-known places, the chapel, the cloisters, where I left a card on Wilder, now a fellow. I went and mused over the place which once was Godley's, but all is levelled. I stood by the oak-tree there, saw the boys assembling for 3 o'clock school, and talked to some. I brought back many a scene thirty years and more ago. At 3, started back and dined with Sisk. After dinner we went to see Mrs. Bagshawe and Mrs. Jauch back in an omnibus.

Thursday, October 17.--Mass at 8½. Went to see Dr. Watson, whom I found to be my former friend, fellow of St. John's. It was a good account of me, thank God. Then to Mr. Nerincx, at Somers Town. Then to Mr. Morel, at Hampstead, and Mrs. Sankey, near him; then called at the Sardinian Chapel, and home to dine, and sit the evening with Sisk.

Friday, October 18.

(_This journal breaks off here, and is not resumed._)

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