Category: Travel Writing

Life in the Soudan Adventures Amongst the Tribes, and Travels in Egypt, in 1881 and 1882

The Fertilizing Rivers of Egypt—Leave Alexandria—Incidents _en route_—Shepheard’s Hotel—Ancient and Modern Cairo—The Donkey-boys—Arab Patients—Dancing Dervishes—The House where Joseph, Mary, and the Infant Saviour Lived in Old Cairo—The Boulac Museum—The Petrified Forest—Mokat...

Chapters

30. CHAPTER IV.

THE FERTILIZING RIVERS OF EGYPT—LEAVE ALEXANDRIA—INCIDENTS EN ROUTE—SHEPHEARD’S HOTEL—ANCIENT AND MODERN CAIRO—THE DONKEY BOYS—ARAB PATIENTS—DANCING DERVISHES—THE HOUSE WHERE JO...

36. CHAPTER X.

OUR FIRST CAMP—TORRENTS OF RAIN—JULES BARDET—CAMEL-DRIVERS BEHAVE BADLY—SULEIMAN IN TROUBLE—CAMEL-DRIVERS GET UPSET—THE DESERT—TWO OF US LOSE OUR WAY—JULES SUFFERS FROM DYSENTER...

46. CHAPTER XX.

PATIENTS ARRIVE FROM ALL PARTS—ROUGH JOURNEYS—ARRIVE AT THE HAMRAN SETTITE—MAHOMET SALI DECEIVES US—CROCODILES, TURTLE, AND FISH—WE MOVE ON TO BOORKATTAN, IN ABYSSINIA—NEXT DAY...

42. CHAPTER XVI.

WE ARRIVE AT THE BASÉ OR KUNAMA COUNTRY—THE VILLAGE OF SARCELLA—MURDER OF MR. POWELL AND PARTY—MY CAMEL AND I UNCEREMONIOUSLY PART COMPANY—THE FIRST BASÉ WE SEE—ENCAMP AT KOOLOO...

52. CHAPTER XXV.

SUEZ TO CAIRO—ALEXANDRIA—ON BOARD THE “MONGOLIA”—PASSENGERS ON BOARD—HIBERNIAN HUMOUR—VENICE—THE PIAZZA OF ST. MARK—THE CAMPANILE—THE PIAZETTA—THE ZECCA, OR MINT—THE PALACE OF T...

51. CHAPTER XXIV.

A LION NEAR THE CAMP—THE MONKS OF CHARDAMBA—WE MEET ALI DHEEN PASHA, GOVERNOR-GENERAL OF THE SOUDAN—ARRIVAL AT KEREN, OR SANHÎT—THE PRIESTS AT KEREN—ACCOUNT OF KEREN—MERISSA—DRA...

44. CHAPTER XVIII.

THE DEMBELAS ATTACK US, MAHOMET WOUNDED,—NARROW ESCAPE OF TWO OF OUR PARTY—ACTIVITY IN CAMP, WE MAKE A ZAREEBA AND FIRE THE COUNTRY—HOLD A COUNCIL OF WAR—OUR SILENT AND DANGEROU...

43. CHAPTER XVII.

WE LEAVE KOOLOOKOO, ACCOMPANIED BY A NUMBER OF THE BASÉ—THE MAGIC LANTERN—SEE BUFFALO AND GIRAFFE FOR THE FIRST TIME—TWO BUFFALOS KILLED—A BASÉ FEAST—CURIOUS BASÉ DANCE—THEY DRY...

45. CHAPTER XIX.

MESSRS. JAMES AND PHILLIPPS START ON A VISIT TO RASALULU—CURIOUS WAY OF SHAVING CHILDREN’S HEADS—A DISGUSTING BASÉ—THE CAMEL-DRIVERS BECOME MUTINOUS—INTENDED ATTACK BY BASÉ—WE F...

29. CHAPTER III.

I arrived at Brindisi at 10 p.m. and was straightway driven off to the quay, was soon on board the P. and O. steamship _Tanjore_, commanded by Captain Briscoe, and not many minu...

31. CHAPTER V.

We arrived at our hotel rather tired, and felt it quite a relief to stretch our legs out straight after having them cramped up so long whilst on our donkeys. Having partaken of...

47. CHAPTER XXI.

A BOA-CONSTRICTOR VISITS US—THE BURTON BOAT—MOUSSA’s BEHAVIOUR ENTAILS A THRASHING AND HIS DISCHARGE—GREAT HEAT—A FINE HIPPOPOTAMUS KILLED—HAMRAN FEAST—THE WHITE ANTS—ANOTHER HI...

40. CHAPTER XIV.

ENCAMP AT HEIKOTA—SHEIK AHMED—HERR SCHUMANN AND HIS ZAREEBA—WE MAKE A ZAREEBA—THE MAHDI—EXCITEMENT IN THE VILLAGE—HORRIBLE TRAGEDY—SHEIK AHMED DINES WITH US—THE MAGIC LANTERN—LI...

34. CHAPTER VIII.

ARRIVAL AT SOUÂKIN—THE SOUDAN—BEDOUIN ARAB PRISONERS IN THE SQUARE, NOT “ON THE SQUARE”—IVORY—ENGAGE CAMELS—SHEIK MOUSSA—SOUÂKIN—SLAVES—TRAGIC END OF A DOCTOR—HADENDOWAH ARABS—A...

50. CHAPTER XXIII.

AN ABYSSINIAN IMPROVISATORE AND HIS LITTLE SLAVE—PREPARE FOR A MARCH TO MASSAWA—A STRANGE BASÉ BREAKFAST—PATIENTS—ARRIVE AT TOODLOAK—BENI-AMIRS ENCAMPED ON THE GASH—LIONS AND LE...

32. CHAPTER VI.

My next visit was to Heliopolis on donkey-back. I was told that it would be a nice ride, but nothing to see except an obelisk when I got there. Notwithstanding this, I felt very...

28. CHAPTER II.

From Turin I went by train to Milan. I ought to have gone direct past Magenta, but by some mistake I found myself making quite a round-about journey, _viâ_ Piacenza and Lodi; ho...

37. CHAPTER XI.

ARRIVED AT KASSALA—DESCRIPTION OF KASSALA—WE BUY CAMELS AND HORSES—THE MUDIR GIVES A DINNER—JULES’ DEATH AND BURIAL—HYÆNAS—ARAB PATIENTS—MAHOOM’S HISTORY—DEMETRIUS MOSCONAS ON S...

53. CHAPTER XXVI.

Every evening during our stay in Venice, just about the time we finished dining in the evening, a gondola full of serenaders would take up their position just beneath our open w...

35. CHAPTER IX.

On the fourth day after our arrival about 80 hired camels were brought into the large open square to be laden with the tents and baggage of every description. I wish I could ade...

27. CHAPTER I.

I was bound for the Soudan, and had arranged to meet my party at Brindisi on the 21st of November, 1881. I therefore sent on all my heavy baggage by Peninsular and Oriental stea...

41. CHAPTER XV.

On the 22nd January we were up in good time, as there was a good deal to be seen to ere we continued our march. We intended to return to Heikota after exploring the Basé country...

38. CHAPTER XII.

January 15th.—Messrs. Colvin and A. James, with their attendants, returned this afternoon from the Atbara, having purchased thirty-four camels. This rather astonished the native...

49. CHAPTER XXII.

ENCAMP AT LAKATAKOORA WITHOUT THE CARAVAN—DESCRIPTION OF VILLAGE—BASÉ LADIES VISIT ME ERE I GET OUT OF BED—THEY RECEIVE PRESENTS AND ARE VERY AMUSING—ENORMOUS NUMBERS OF DOVES A...

33. CHAPTER VII.

THE LAND OF GOSHEN—ANCIENT CANALS—SUEZ—HOWLING DERVISHES—ECLIPSE OF THE MOON AND STRANGE BEHAVIOUR OF NATIVES—LEAVE SUEZ—WHERE THE ISRAELITES CROSSED THE RED SEA—PASS MOUNT SINA...

39. CHAPTER XIII.

All being ready, we started off from Kassala at 3 p.m. on the 17th January, intending to reach Heikota within three days. We encamped at 8 p.m., and next day were off at 9 a.m.,...

26. CHAPTER XXVI.

The Soudan, two years ago, was a name unknown to the million, and I will venture to say that at that time not one in fifty knew anything about it. Only those who could afford to...

48. did. Had the Abyssinians seen your tents and all those boxes they would

certainly have come down on you and killed everyone of you for the sake of the tents alone, to say nothing of the boxes.” He also informed him that about a month ago they killed...

23. CHAPTER XXIII.

An Abyssinian Improvisatore and His Little Slave—Prepare for a March to Massawa—A Strange Basé Breakfast—Patients—Arrive at Toodloak—Beni-Amirs Encamped on the Gash—Lions and Le...

20. CHAPTER XX.

Patients Arrive from all Parts—Rough Journeys—Arrive at the Hamran Settite—Mahomet Sali Deceives us—Crocodiles, Turtle, and Fish—We Move on to Boorkattan, in Abyssinia—Next Day...

24. CHAPTER XXIV.

A Lion Near the Camp—The Monks of Chardamba—We Meet Ali Dheen Pasha, Governor-General of the Soudan—Arrival at Keren, or Sanhît—The Priests at Keren—Account of Keren—Merissa—Dra...

21. CHAPTER XXI.

A Boa-constrictor Visits Us—The Burton Boat—Moussa’s Behaviour Entails a Thrashing and His Discharge—Great Heat—A Fine Hippopotamus Killed—Hamran Feast—The White Ants—Another Hi...

17. CHAPTER XVII.

We leave Koolookoo, Accompanied by a Number of the Basé—The Magic Lantern—See Buffalo and Giraffe for the First Time—Two Buffalos Killed—A Basé Feast—Curious Basé Dance—They Dry...

10. CHAPTER X.

Our First Camp—Torrents of Rain—Jules Bardet—Camel-drivers Behave Badly—Suleiman in Trouble—Camel-drivers get Upset—The Desert—Two of Us Lose our Way—Jules Suffers from Dysenter...

16. CHAPTER XVI.

We Arrive at the Basé or Kunama Country—The Village of Sarcella—Murder of Mr. Powell and Party—My Camel and I Unceremoniously Part Company—The First Basé We See—Encamp at Kooloo...

19. CHAPTER XIX.

Messrs. James and Phillipps Start on a Visit to Rasalulu—Curious Way of Shaving Children’s Heads—A Disgusting Basé—The Camel-drivers become Mutinous—Intended Attack by Basé—We F...

4. CHAPTER IV.

The Fertilizing Rivers of Egypt—Leave Alexandria—Incidents _en route_—Shepheard’s Hotel—Ancient and Modern Cairo—The Donkey-boys—Arab Patients—Dancing Dervishes—The House where...

18. CHAPTER XVIII.

The Dembelas Attack Us, Mahomet Wounded, Narrow Escape of two of our Party—Activity in Camp, We Make a Zareeba and Fire the Country—Hold a Council of War—Our Silent and Dangerou...

22. CHAPTER XXII.

Encamp at Lakatakoora Without the Caravan—Description of Village—Basé Ladies Visit Me ere I Get Out of Bed—They Receive Presents and are very Amusing—Enormous Numbers of Doves a...

25. CHAPTER XXV.

Suez to Cairo—Alexandria—On Board the _Mongolia_—Passengers on Board—Hibernian Humour—Venice—The Piazza of St. Mark—The Campanile—The Piazetta—The Zecca, or Mint—The Palace of t...

7. CHAPTER VII.

The Land of Goshen—Ancient Canals—Suez—Howling Dervishes—Eclipse of the Moon and Strange Behaviour of Natives—Leave Suez—Where the Israelites Crossed the Red Sea—Pass Mount Sina...

8. CHAPTER VIII.

Arrival at Souâkin—The Soudan—Bedouin Arab Prisoners in the Square, Not “on the Square”—Ivory—Engage Camels—Sheik Moussa—Souâkin Slaves—Tragic End of a Doctor—Hadendowah Arabs—A...

14. CHAPTER XIV.

Encamp at Heikota—Sheik Ahmed—Herr Schumann and His Zareeba—We Make a Zareeba—The Mahdi—Excitement in the Village—Horrible Tragedy—Sheik Ahmed Dines with us—The Magic Lantern—Li...

11. CHAPTER XI.

Arrive at Kassala—Description of Kassala—We buy Camels and Horses—The Mudir gives a Dinner—Jules’ Death and Burial—Hyænas—Arab Patients—Mahoom’s History—Demetrius Mosconas on Sl...

15. CHAPTER XV.

Patients at Heikota—Leave Heikota—Game in the Basé Country—See our First Lion—A Lion Interviews the Author—typo Tetél, Nellut, and other Game Killed on the March 178-183

6. CHAPTER VI.

2. CHAPTER II.

5. CHAPTER V.

3. CHAPTER III.

9. CHAPTER IX.

12. CHAPTER XII.

13. CHAPTER XIII.

1. CHAPTER I.